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[ [ "Early Space Race Era\nI agree it can be doable (with a lot of luck) at steam power era but will need a massive effort akin to put the man on moon, maybe even requiring a international task force. Below I will list some challenges were are not pointed in previous answers.\nWhy not in the age of sail?\nBecause we never got an age of sail for start. At sec XV we unified some kingdoms and they started a tech race akin to the space race to finally develop oceanic navigation. At sec XVI we founded colonies in the new world and it pushed the navigation development and with the growth of the colonies culminated in the \"Age of Sail\". Without those elements OP super earth most likely skiped it entirely.\nA Fearsome Sea\nThe size of this Ocean will bring a lot of weather and climate challenges. You can expect winds, tides and currents to be way bigger. Also expects typhoons to be cataclysmic. The tides per se will be a good challenge for the building of ports. The tsunami size weaves can make even fishing impossible in large coastal areas. The sea conditions will be nasty, even in good weather and impossible in bad weather. Navigation will be a really dangerous business. Also the sea conditions will make coastal erosion a thing. I ever wonder if most of coastal will be of massive cliffs.", "308" ], [ "All those factos summed make me wonder coastal cities will be almost entrenched in big natural harbours and important sea trade routes will be exclusively between cities in bays (the only place where is possible to build a big port anyway) and where the route travels along a, most time, very peacefull chunk of the ocean.\nLots of Trains & Planes but no Fleet\nThe size of the continet this points out railroads will be in demand early ans planes too but navigation will be very limited in all aspects, speacially in tech. This leads to a strange scenario where we will hit industrial age and even space age skipping sail age.\nThe Dark Side\nThe Moon is a great target for mankind aspiration, from dawn of time we can see it but we cannot reach it. We dreamed to land here a million times. But what if for millenia we do know Super-Terra has a dark side out of reach? Once scientist proves we can launch a object in orbit and retrieve it the first thing to be flung out will be a camera to take pictures of the uncharted lands. Once the first pictures are retrieved be sure it will trigger a space/exploration/colonization race.\nAge of New World\nThe reason the new continent will spring a sort of space race is to gather data from the land, not only a coastal line but weather a major biomes, moutains ranges, rivers. Everything necessary for future settlers. Also a new tech race on navigation will sprung. Visionaries will dream of under-water-boats, starting the project of the (probably first) submarine. Long-range-any-weather-transocenic ships will gain the status today we grant to a mission to Mars. It will bring a new age.\nWhat if there already people here? They are probably in another phase in tech development, even using a different \"tech tree\" but fact we reached them first. Also yes its unlikey but possible small grups can end strained here but OP can wave a complex geologial/ice age to explain it. Maybe thermals isles of heat making a sort of ring of fire connecting boths continents in immemorial times. What in that case the answer instead can be Ice Age", "99" ], [ "Water Worlds, probability and life\nI have had similar thoughts as yours, specially for the case of a Europa or Enceladus type world, which is starting to seem the most likely type of planets for having liquid water. Think our Solar System, there is one Planet with liquid water on surface, one which had in past (Mars), however undersea oceans are almost certain in Enceladus and Europa and possible in several other bodies Ganymede, Callisto, Ceres, Titan and probably others. The lack of Sun light would certainly hinder development of life but I don't think it could be discarded. The aparent significantly higher probability of planets with water available in underground oceans migh somewhat compensate the less likely formation of life because of missing sunlight.\nIt is interesting the other answer that mentions that more advanced lifeforms having developed on land inspite of it being much later than ocean life, not sure if that could be extrapolated to other worlds since I wouldn't be sure why that has happened. Ocean life certainly is not in bad shape and there are probably more species at sea that at land. Just seems that the stage they have evolved is in most cases sufficient for survival in that environment without having needed to develop into intelligent beings.\nAlien Ocean civilizations\nI would make a difference between an ocean civilization in an ocean in contact with an atmosphere vs one under a layer of ice.", "258" ], [ "In the first case the civilization would eventualy reach the surface, and investigate the exterior, how much it could initially learn might depend on how deep they originaly evolved and presence or not of significant cloud cover in the atmosphere.\nUnder Ice Ocean Civs Some of what applies in this case probably aplies also to previous case if the civilization where deep enough to make light absent.\nIn these Europa-type worlds:\n* There would be no sunlight anywhere.\n* Therefore vision might not evolve or only in species evolving simultaneously some type of bioluminiscence, competing with other systems as sonar smell or others to interact with the world.\n* Lack of light and vision would make astronomy unknown for long stages of civilization development.\n* Maybe even the absence of paterns found in astronomy might slightly slow develoment of math vs other sciences.\nA civilization as we know would probably be sedentarious, this would make it unlikely at first to develop among species living in the open ocean, I speculate if such civilization apeared it would be either at the sea floor on at the sea top, in contact with the ice cover. Current speculation on posibility of hot vents in Europa at the sea floor might make a bottom civilization seem more likely, but maybe a \"Top\" civilization would be possible too if the life mass is enough for large animals living far from rocky bottom (or maybe the top could be chemically active in some way too.)\nThings in our evolution that we take for granted might take a different course of events, even knowing the world is round would probably not be known until the civilization expands enough to reach itself on the other end.\nFor all this civilization knows they would just as likely think that the ceiling extends indefinately, something that would be possible to continue believing even well after they knew the world was round and therefore that the floor is finite and their world has a \"center\".\nI think this civilization would probably need to be at least at tech levels similar to ours or at minimum mid 20th century levels to even start speculating of the posibility of the world having an outer limit. This knowledge would probably be obtained from theoretical models, probably modeling pressures and gravitation. Gravitation, and <PERSON> laws in general would probably take much longer to be accurately undestood, as on Earth these where modeled with important inputs from astronomy and observation of planets. Other chances are detecting the Sun by some type of radiation penetrating the ice and ocean in levels detectable to some science instrument. From then curiosity would eventualy lead to this new Field of Science (Astronomy). Even then much would be theorical and even debated until finaly being able to breach the ice cover.\nConsidering that even in present Humans can reach the moon and other planets with probes, but still haven't made holes as deep as might be requiered by a civilization in Europa to reach outside the ice cover (and they would be drilling against gravity!) - maybe there could be a significantly developed civilization that knows little of the universe out of the ocean.\nHey maybe there is a mega civilization now on Europa that is as advanced as us or more but has not developed technology or science to breach the ice cover yet.", "258" ], [ "Too Many Catastrophes\nOk so by magical a cube of 470km appears out of nothing. For mercy I will consider it appears cold and at rest (no need of a gold huge meteor), in a flat desert land and avoid nasty things like all the air moved the volum of the cube moved (the shockwaves per si can make any nuke looks like a small bang).\nAlso let's say the cube keeps a cube by magic, otherwise you can think all that mass as a sort of high viscouseus liquid spreading very fast as a golden tsunami for over even a bigger area, maybe covering a continent and hitting the sea with nasty environmental consequences.\nNote also some of the sea salt is made of gold but I'm unsure how it can affect sea wildlife. For sure the sea can become a slight less dense.\nNot the last catastrophe can be the mass of the cube ripping trough the planet crust and reaching the mantle this is very speculative but one can expcet volcanos erupting and earthquakes all around and not even start to think about all that gold sinking to the core.\nLet's also make the magic protect the planet rotation, you know what can happen if you concentrate mass in a ball? Well put a small lead pin in a baseball ball side and throw it, thats what they call an odd ball.\nIf there are sattelites over this planet their orbits can be affect by a huge Mascon (sorry ISS).\nEconomics\nRulling out all the world destruction thing we still will see bad things happening because gold is valuable because it's rare. Unless some major global power throw all his military at protecting the cube, maybe triggering a world war, gold now is a very ordinary thing. You can have balast make of gold to use in fishery, use it to make water pipes and so on as it now can be as cheap as lead (just a bit less unhealthy).\nHow gold will trigger an economic crisis depends on your world setup.", "921" ], [ "In a medieval setup kingdoms will slowly change all his currency to silver. Powerfull kings will be less powerfull. In a a more renaissense world the new formed banks sinks, the merchants are almost bankrupt and say goodbay to arts patronage. In a modern earth like society we are screwed, badly. Gold is an important commodite.\nThe bottom line is: The poor fool wished all the gold of the world is now more poor ans screwed than before.", "752" ], [ "There already pretty good answers (Even <PERSON> is a greate one!). It's a glorified comment to add a few points.\n1. Economics\nFood One side effect of a entire population running around is calories needs increase. This makes land even more valuable and food production even a bigger business.\nOil Car and other vehicles can still be necessary for long distances depending of how much a human can endure to run at top speed. Cargo vehicles like trains and ships are still common. Anyway oil consuption ill decrease a bit an can even not be biggest business around.\nShoes A interesting side effect can be high demand for footwear. Running at 40mph all day ill make people buy running shoes weekly.", "207" ], [ "Footwear industry can be a lot larger in this hipotetical world.\n2 Culture\nWAR Running at 40mph a platton trained to run carring heavy logs can crush gates and break enemy lines with easy. All tatics can change since mobility is a key factor since the first pre historian tribal skirmishes. At that speed spearmens and javelins throwers can be fearsome.\nStreets Since cars are more a utility for cargo and long trips streets ill be build for fast running people. That means maybe a grass lane with a danm good drain system.\nTransit Law enforcement in transit ill don't need the arise of automobile or the big confluence of horse powered wagons. Each ancient civilization ill create his transit code and in modern days we ill got specialized transit laywers.\nAlcohol can be strict proibited for e everyone!\nCommunication Even in medieval eras communication ill be a lot better between tows and feuds. Also depending on human endurance trips can be a lot more common increasing trade leting people in touch that with the mobility of armies and the need for more land can even \"enlarge\" a lot the size of the small medieval feuds and nations ill be likely to form early.\n3 Science\nNeed is the mother of invention That's true so steam power => Combustion => Aviation can arise a bit later for example but A increased commnucated humanity can need telegraph early.\nNow trying to respond the question:\nHow to keep stupid people alive\nBiology Just make a better peripheric vision. Human hability to driveat 40mph proves we don't need a lot more upgrades.\nMobile Phones Can strict proibited to move and use a mobile device for obvious reasons. In some places they can be entirely banned.\nAlcohol Proibited since ancient times! Can even be a taboo\nSorry for the lack of beer & wine guys.", "222" ], [ "Let's do an as exaustive as possible list of what do you need in Space and during a war?\nVital need: The most obvious to begin. I suppose even if you have FTL communication, you won't use only unmaned craft. You will need to provide food and water to your troops. And your ennemy will need supplies to sustain planetary siege you will maybe provoke. Water and food sources as well trade routes (you will probably always use the shortest path, because the voyage without FTL to the closest star is at least 4 years long, see Proxima Centauri) will be real strategic points, if you don't want your troops and population to starve.\nExample of water sources: water rich asteroids, frozen moon (like Europa)...\nExample of food sources: habitable planet with vegetation and maybe animals, farm spacestation (like in the video game serie X), nebulae (some are believed to contain organic molecules, you could manage to synthetise food with them)...\nMilitary ressources: A bit more specific to war: ammo, spacecraft and fuel. Ammo will be plasma for plasma weapon, ion for ion cannon... Only laser will not need ammo (maybe replacement lens?). You will need to control ammunition factories and be able to supply them (trade routes, again and mines for metals, and various ressources you could need, you will found them in all kind of stellar object, it depend of the nature of the ressources). Same purpose for spacecraft, you need to control \"spacedockyard\" to be able to repair existing spaceship and building new ones. To fuel for vessels, assuming they are powered by fusion reactor, and not old fashion hydrazine (not efficient enough, too explosive and heavy), you will need hydrogen, to fuel the fusion reaction.\nEconomy and communication: Money is the sinews of war (and intel too). You will need to control trade routes and \"space docks\" to destroy the ennemy economy and prevent him to build new spaceship, enroll new troops... To gather intel, controlling ennemy communication and command centers is a good start. They will contain informations and will help you to decypher ennemy code (like with the Enigma machine).", "898" ], [ "It will prevent your ennemy to correctly communicate too, and disorganise his military organisation.\nSpace specific strategic point: Since the begining, this is the same kind of strategic point than on Earth. Now let's talk about space specific one. A spaceship is really greatly insulate (see vacuum insulated panel). It means your ship will generate many static electricity. It could be dangerous for the ship electronics (and the crew, maybe). You will need to discharge it sometimes if you don't want to be thunderstruck the next time you approach a planet (fun fact, you will be the source of the lightning). You can find this kind of issue with ion thruster (not at the same scale but I assume the activity on your warship will generate static electrecity, firing a ion cannon for example). Heat will be an other problem. You can't dissipate much heat in void, beacause of it's poor thermal conduction (see the begining of the paragraph). You will need to enter a fluid to dissipate heat quickly (a really low temperature liquid is the best of the best). You could dissipate the heat by irradiation to, but you will be really visible (and this is not a good during a war).\nPoint to discharge static electricity: point with opposite charge like planets or asteroid (if you're lucky)\nPoint to dissipate heat:where you can find fluids colder than your ship. Ocean on a planet, atmospher of a planet, nebulae...\nBut on this time and distance scale, war is close to be a none-sense. You could find all the place/ressource you need in another place, closer and more important safer.\nI hope you like my list! Thanks for the reading.", "898" ], [ "Skimp on Shipping Insurance\nLots of importers/exporters have to worry about insurance cost because of theft, fire, mechanical failure, atmospheric conditions. Depending on what you ship to whom. For your monks these cost are non existent. The trick is deceiving people in that you are shipping the stuff. You just happen to have that specif item always on hand in there closest warehouse.\nLets give some examples\n* Anti-venom/toxins: Lots of expense easily spoil-able medicine (and rare blood types) out there that hospital just don't stock-up and order only when a person enter's bitten by that specific creature. Have a small warehouse in each major city and advertise you have a stock of every type of anti-venom in every one of them. You only have one central warehouse staffed by monks.\n* Fresh Seafood Build small aquariums in big cities and again advertise you have a large supply of Seafood shipped overnight still fresh still alive in some cases. Restaurants and other catering services will pay you more money for that service than they will charge their customers, The prestige of having still living wild tuna freshly caught from the other side of the globe is worth allot. also as a bonus lots of restaurants would see there food waste decrease if they don't have to pre-order a day in advance.\n* LEO Already suggested by others but send a empty rocket into space then if the launch is successful. Which is not a guarantee, (which is why insurance is expensive on launches). They teleport the food, water and/or spare parts up there.", "500" ], [ "Unfortunately you wont be able to transport specialty parts because you wont be able to explain them surviving a crash. Just offer it as a cheap service using old rockets engine with high change of failure. These regular supply runs can be very profitable if you only send up air and fill it up once in orbit. While commercial space flight is in its infancy. A estimate for cost charged per kilo to the ISS can vary between 20.000 and 100.000 dollars.\n* Diplomatic mail. Lots and lots of things gets shipped through diplomatic pouches every day. They are handled by commercial shipping companies like any other but they over a tantalizing benefit nobody is allowed to open them. Again you can overbook private charter flights. Advertise you offer secrecy above all. Nobody will know what route it took to reach its destination. If a plane is lots by accident just claim its contents where private. The first res ponders already removed the cargo before other people showed up or just say it was flying empty which was the truth.", "500" ], [ "The problem I see in your question is understating how much of human technological development was based on fossil fuels.\nI mean you need coal to get from Bronze age to Iron age\nTo skip from bronze to ... I guess an Atomic era would be a tremendous leap.\nBut lets give our selves a chance, and limit your scenario to\nWhat would it have taken for the world to skip fossil fuel based power stations?\nWhat do you say? is this acceptable?\nIf yes, than the answer may be just a small change in perception, first coal based powerplant was commissioned by none other than <PERSON> a Edison Electric Light Station in 1982 this allowed for electrification of London using DC current. And there was little to no choice, because DC is annoyingly hard to transfer over long distances, you need your Power Station to be within a kilometer I think for the DC Station to be effective. The transfer over long distances, would be later facilitated by AC current, its efficiency further improved using 3-phase AC.\nSince the 3-phase AC could be transferred over almost any distance it made sense to use water as the source of the energy for electricity generation, in fact both the first commercial installation Lauffen Power Station in 1892 which transferred the AC current to over 109miles distant Frankfurt, Redlands Power Station (1893), Folsom Power Plant(1895) and famous Tesla Westinghouse Niagara Fall Hydro-Electric Power Station(1895) all used a hydroelectric principle.\nIt was only later the higher efficiency steam generators/alternators became the primary source of electricity. The acceptance was high because, well for past 13 years coal plants have been used to generate electricity, so what's the problem, just replace the dc generators with alternator.\nThe point of diversion however is: what if construction of coal based DC power station coincided with the hydroelectric AC powers stations.\nI expect that one aspect, the Westinghouse would harp on to promote his AC alternators, would be the quality of air consideration.", "284" ], [ "It would be very easy to point to black lung, the noise, the soot all over, comparing the Niagara fall's clean and CHEAP electricity with coal based station in the middle of the city, would be very easy. Since the AC also just happens to be easier to transfer, it could give a death blow not only to DC in the current war, but also to fossil fuels as a primary source of electric energy.\nThis could in turn start the renaissance of clean energy generation. Hydroelectric, wind, coastal. All this would be used, the coal plants would be used only when no suitable source would be near by, and effort would be made to get rid of it. The suitable alternatives would later become Nuclear and Solar, but that is way down the line.\nAt the same time, large effort would be given to electricity storing.\nYou don't really need any technological breakthrough, only make the fossil fuels seem unappealing at exactly the right time, and the gradual technological improvements will take care of the rest.", "778" ], [ "Assuming WWI or 2-ish technology: just use the mechanisms they already used and had for these types of weapons:\nTrip Wires or Electronic fuses\nTrip wires were commonly used with mines as an activation mechanism. This concept works with a hoover craft as well. The disadvantage of trip wire was it was easier to see than a standard pressure sensor and as the location of the \"trip wire\" might need to be altered (raised) this disadvantage would increase. However, its still possible as one could disguise them in the barbed wire which littered the \"deadman's land\" fields that trench warefare used. I would also set this up as a daisy chain of mines to improve the chances of disabling or even just hitting this quick vehicle.\nOn a similar note, which would be more accurate but also more dangerous for troops.", "477" ], [ "You could set up a electronic fuse (think the old TNT \"plunger\") which a solider would trigger once the vehicle was over the mines.\nRadio Activated Mines\nThis became more of an issue in modern warefare (and with IDEs) but radio activated mines are a real thing. The radio technology of WWI required pretty big comm equipment which was usually transported by horse or mule1 but, as trench warefare was largely static, it is conceivable that a few stations could be setup which allow for activating a mine. The range and low development of radio technology would make these much less reliable than fuses but the ability to be farther away and not have to disguise wires themselves certainly makes this an interesting tactical option.\nMagnetic Mines\nThese were actually developed during WWI but did not see much action until WWII (and then only as a Naval weapon)2. However, if these hovercraft are seen as a potent threat and weapon it makes sense that this weapons development would be accelerated and a ground-based version developed.\n1: \"Golden Age of Radio in the US\", Radio on the Frontlines exhibition. Digital Public Library of America.\n2: <PERSON>, <PERSON>, \"Naval Weapons of World War Two\" (London, UK: Conway Maritime Press, 1985)", "477" ] ]

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[ [ "In a complete general framework, probably as you know, you can define an hamiltonian system as a dynamical system whose vector field reads: $$[X_{H}(x)]{i}= {x{i},H} $$ where $$x=(q_{1},...,q_{n},p_{1},...,p_{n})=(q,p)$$ is a vector of the phase space $\\Gamma$ (that is practically always an Hilbert space), ${ ; }$ is a Poisson Bracket that satisfies the usual properties and $H=H(x)$ is the Hamiltonian of the system, defined on the phase space. A really important object that one can define, is the so-called Poisson tensor, defined as: $$J_{jk} = {x_{j},x_{k}}$$ Note that from this definition is obvious that $J$ has got the same skew-symmetry property of the <PERSON> brackets: this is fundamental in order to redefine a formulation of any Hamiltonian system in terms of $J$. At this point, without enter a lot in details, one can develope what is written above redefining the <PERSON> brackets in terms of the Poisson tensor and in this way one can write a complete general form of the <PERSON> equation of ANY Hamiltonian system: $$\\dot{x} =J(x)\\nabla_{x}H(x)$$ where $J$ is the Poisson tensor and the notation $\\nabla_{x}$ means that the gradient acts on a vector of the phase space $x$. You can make ANY change of variable $x \\rightarrow y=f(x)$ that you want, but you will NEVER lose the hamiltonian properties of your system (i.e. the properties of the Poisson brakets).", "976" ], [ "This is really important and means that if a system is Hamiltonian, according to the definitions above, it will remains Hamiltonian INDIPENDENTLY of the coordinate chosen to describe it.\nThe concept of the Poisson tensor is also important in order to characterize the set of Casimir invariants (i.e the symmetry group) of a given Hamiltonian system: A Casimir invariant $C(x)$ is a function defined on the phase space, such that: $$J(x)\\nabla C(x)=0$$ in other words, is a function which has got the gradient that is in the Kernel of the Poisson tensor. These functions describe the invariace of your system. The main point (that i hope can answers to your question) is easy to understand just from the definition of a <PERSON> invariant and is that ANY Hamiltonian system that is described by the same Poisson tensor, has got the same <PERSON> invariants (i.e the same symmetry)! Is not correct the way in which your are posing your question, beacause every Hamiltonian system has got a well defined algebra of functions $A(\\Gamma)$ whose bilinear product is a <PERSON> bracket that satisfies the usual properties that you know: if is not possible to define a <PERSON> bracket you can't have any Hamiltonian system. It's not meaningful what you are asking for beacause the definition of the classical Hamiltonian algebra is really general and , i repeat, well-defined in any case. In other words, the Hamiltonian algebra defined on the phase space doesn't count if you are talking about invariance and symmetries of an Hamiltonian system but, as i wrote to you above, the main instrument in order to characterize this fact is the Poisson tensor of the system: the same Poisson tensor -> the same Casimir(symmetries)", "976" ], [ "Take into account the simple case of a wave that satisfy the <PERSON> equation (for simplicity 1-D case): $$ u_{tt} - c_{0}^2 u_{xx} $$ You know that the most general solution of this equation is given by the superposition of two profiles that does not change in form during the motion: $f(x-ct)$ that traslates towards positive $x$ and $f(x+ct)$ that traslates towards negative $x$. The general solution reads: $$ u(x,t) = f(x-c_{0}t) + f(x+c_{0}t) $$ It is the so-called \"stationary wave\", that is a superposition of two profiles with the same frequency, that does not change during the evolution according to the <PERSON> equation. Now let's get to the point: the D'Alambert equation above is a linear (superposition of solution is a solution yet) and NON DISPERSIVE equation, the fact that is not dispersive, practically means that you can change the frequency (or the wave-number) of your traslating profiles, without changing the phase velocity of propagation, that in any case remains $$c= \\frac{\\omega}{k}=\\pm c_{0}$$. You can see that in this first case the dependece $\\omega(k)$ is linear and as a consequence of this fact, you will have that your traslating profile will not change in time, as written above. This also can be thought in terms of Fourier components: just think about that in this way you can describe a stationary wave like a sum over components of different wave-number.", "795" ], [ "In other words, the most general way to write the solution can be by developing a Fourier series, incuding all the possibile wave- vectors $k$ in your solution, without losing of generality. For example, a non dispersive wave is the electromagnetic one in the vacuum.\nOn the other hand, a DISPERSIVE wave-equation, is an equation in which the dispersion relation is something like $$c= \\frac{\\omega(k)}{k}$$. Where the dependece $\\omega(k)$ is not linear in this second case. This cleary imply that the phase velocity of your wave will change, if you modify the frequency (beacause $\\omega$ depends on $k$) and so, in this case you cannot have that waves with different frequencies (or wave-numbers) propagate with the same phase velocity. As examples of dispersive wave, think about surface waves on deep water, or electromagnetic waves in a medium.", "795" ], [ "A problem in deriving the Hamilton Jacobi equation from a variational principle\nas I've already said, I have a problem in understanding a reasoning from which we derive the Hamilton Jacobi equation from a variational principle. Let's take the <PERSON> functional:\n$$ S = \\int_{t_0}^{t_1} [ p_{\\alpha}\\dot{q}^{\\alpha} - H(q^{\\alpha},p_{\\alpha},t) ] dt $$\nThe first variation on the phase space of this functional is, in the most general form:\n$$ (\\delta S){\\bar{\\gamma}} = [p\\alpha \\delta q^{\\alpha} - H \\delta t]{t_0}^{t_1} + \\int{t_0}^{t_1} \\left{ \\left[ \\dot{q}^{\\alpha} - \\frac{\\partial H}{\\partial p_\\alpha} \\right]{\\bar{\\gamma}}\\pi\\alpha - \\left[ \\dot{p}{\\alpha} + \\frac{\\partial H}{\\partial q^\\alpha} \\right]{\\bar{\\gamma}}\\eta_\\alpha \\right} dt $$\nWhere the variation of the functional S is evaluated on the deformation of the curve ${\\bar{\\gamma}} \\to \\gamma$ in the phase space:\n$$ \\bar{\\gamma} : \\begin{cases} q^{\\alpha} = \\overline{q}^{\\alpha}(t) \\ p_{\\alpha} = \\overline{p}{\\alpha}(t) \\ A = { \\overline{q}^{\\alpha}(t_0);\\overline{p}{\\alpha}(t_0) } \\ B = { \\overline{q}^{\\alpha}(t_1);\\overline{p}{\\alpha}(t_1) } \\ \\end{cases} \\qquad t \\in [t_0,t_1] $$ $$ \\gamma : \\begin{cases} q^{\\alpha} = \\overline{q}^{\\alpha}(t) + \\lambda\\eta{\\alpha}(t) \\ p_{\\alpha} = \\overline{p}{\\alpha}(t) + \\lambda\\pi{\\alpha}(t)\\ A' = { \\overline{q}^{\\alpha}(t_0 + \\lambda \\delta t_0) + \\lambda \\eta_{\\alpha}(t_0 + \\lambda \\delta t_0) ; \\overline{p}{\\alpha}(t_0 + \\lambda \\delta t_0) + \\lambda \\pi{\\alpha}(t_0 + \\lambda \\delta t_0) } \\ B' = { \\overline{q}^{\\alpha}(t_1 + \\lambda \\delta t_1)+\\lambda \\eta_{\\alpha}(t_1 + \\lambda \\delta t_1); \\overline{p}{\\alpha}(t_1 + \\lambda \\delta t_1) + \\lambda \\pi{\\alpha}(t_1 + \\lambda \\delta t_1) } \\ \\end{cases} \\qquad t \\in [t_0 +\\lambda \\delta t_0,t_1 +\\lambda \\delta t_1] $$\nWhere $\\eta_{\\alpha}$ and $\\pi_{\\alpha}$ are regular function. Now, in my notes we choose $\\bar{\\gamma}$ e we let $A=A'$, so that we have an initial fixed point.", "955" ], [ "Then we say that on the curve chosen, are satisfied the <PERSON> equation, so that the variation of S becomes only:\n$$ (\\delta S){\\bar{\\gamma}} = [p\\alpha \\delta q^{\\alpha} - H \\delta t]_{t_0}^{t_1} $$\n[First question Is this legit ? If the <PERSON> equation are derived from the same variational principle, can we say ''a priori'' that them are valid on a particular path on the phase space ? ]\nThen we consider the point B movable, so that it depends from time. In this way, S isn't a functional anymore, but instead is a function of time. So the variation can be interpreted as a differential:\n$$ dS= p_\\alpha d q^{\\alpha} - H d t $$\n[Second question I wish to have a mathematical proof for that, because for me isn't trivial as it sounds.", "346" ], [ "In general, there are two classic ways to represent the <PERSON> group. The first one comes from its definition. They are the \"rigid\" motions for a 4D <PERSON> spacetime. Identifying space-time with $\\mathbb R^4$ equipped with the metric: $$\\eta = \\begin{pmatrix} 1 & 0 & 0 & 0\\ 0 & -1 & 0 & 0\\ 0 & 0 & -1 & 0\\ 0 & 0 & 0 & -1\\ \\end{pmatrix} $$ you can view the <PERSON> transformations as the affine transformation $f: x\\in\\mathbb R^4 \\to\\Lambda x+u$ with $u$ a constant fourvector and $\\Lambda$ the analogue of a rotation matrix satisfying: $$ \\Lambda \\eta \\Lambda^T = \\eta $$ ie a linear transformation preserving the metric, more commonly known as a <PERSON> transformation.\nTranslations are just the case when $u=0$ and <PERSON> transformations about the origin when $\\Lambda=I_4$. Within the <PERSON> transformations, you typically distinguish rotations and boosts. This is done by fixing a time coordinate (note that the distinction is observer dependent).", "578" ], [ "In our case, let's fix time to be the first coordinate $x^0$, with corresponding basis vector $e_0$.\nRotations are the subgroup of the <PERSON> group that fix $e_0$ ie don't mess with time. You can show that you can write: $$ \\Lambda = \\begin{pmatrix} 1 & 0 \\ 0 & R \\end{pmatrix} $$ with $R$ a rotation matrix ie a $3\\times 3$ satisfying $RR^T = I_3$.\nFor boosts, you can't rigorously talk about a representation as they do not form a subgroup of the <PERSON> group (this is the origin of the famous <PERSON> precession). This subset can be parametrised by a $3$ vector $v$ with corresponding Lorentz factor $\\gamma = (1-v^Tv)^{-1/2}$ by: $$ \\Lambda = \\begin{pmatrix} \\gamma & \\gamma v^T \\ \\gamma v & I_3+\\frac{-1+\\gamma}{v^T v}v v^T \\end{pmatrix} $$\nNote that there is another convenient way of representing the <PERSON> group as a matrix subgroup. It is the mathematical trick of homogenising The idea is to add an extra dimension. You can view them as $5\\times 5$ the matrices of the form: $$ \\begin{pmatrix} 1 & 0 \\ u & \\Lambda \\end{pmatrix} $$ To prove the equivalence with the previous one, you can easily show it has the same action on the affine subspace $\\begin{pmatrix}1 \\ x\\end{pmatrix}$ with $x\\in\\mathbb R^4$. In a similar way, you can view the Galilean transform more explicitly as a degenerate <PERSON> group by viewing the group of boosts and rotations as a matrix subgroup. In fact, this representation shows that it is in some sense a degenerate version of a bigger group, which leads to AdS and dS spaces.\nHope this helps", "364" ], [ "Maybe it's useful to think this question from the Hamiltonian formalism. The Hamiltonian $\\cal{H}$ of a system is, in general, the total energy of the system, expressed with a particular set of variables. For example, for a point particle moving in the presence of a constatn gravitational field, the energy is $$E = \\frac{mv^2}{2} + mgx$$ but these variables are not suitable for expressing the Hamiltonian. Instead of the velocity, the apropriate variable is momentum $$\\cal{H} = \\frac{p^2}{2m} + mgx$$ This choice is not random, but it's based on certain relations between momentum and position. In general, two variables meeting these relations are called canonical coordinates, and can be thought as one representing a \"position\" $\\mathbb{q}$ and the other a \"momentum\" $\\mathbf{p}$ (eg: position $x$ and linear momentum $p$, angle $\\theta$ and angular momentum $L$, etc.)\nBased on this, the equations of movement of the particle can be found from the <PERSON> equations $$\\frac{d\\mathbf{p}}{dt} = -\\frac{d\\cal{H}}{d\\mathbf{q}},\\;\\;\\frac{d\\mathbf{q}}{dt} = +\\frac{d\\cal{H}}{d\\mathbf{p}}$$\nLet's use this in the simplest case possible: a point mass moving with velocity $v$ in free space, without the action of any force.", "499" ], [ "The Hamiltonian in this case is simply $\\cal{H}=p^2/2m$, and applying <PERSON> equations $$\\frac{dp}{dt} = -\\frac{d\\cal{H}}{dq} = 0,\\;\\;\\frac{dq}{dt} = +\\frac{d\\cal{H}}{dp} = \\frac{p}{m}$$\nTranslating this to \"normal\" variables $q\\rightarrow$ position, $p\\rightarrow$ momentum, the second equation reads \"the variation of position is the velocity\", which sounds pretty reasonable, and the first is \"the velocity is constant\", as we already knew. However, from the first equation you also get the conservation of momentum. This is caused by the Hamiltonian being independent of the position, which can be thought as \"no matter where you are in the space, the Hamiltonian remains the same\". This \"no matter where you are\" is called a symmetry in the Hamiltonian, and represent the validity of the equations representing the system, even if you move it anywhere in the universe (where the conditions are still met). All the conservation laws can be represented as symmetries in the Hamiltonian, always involving two related canonical coordinates (position and linear momentum, angle and angular momentum, time and energy, etc.). The formalism of this is the <PERSON> theorem.", "499" ], [ "The direct answer to you question is: No, you may not in general identify $\\phi=-\\pi/2$ with $\\phi=\\pi/2$. The points to not correspond to the same physical conditions. The exception is if you are in fact treating a two-dimensional particle (an ellipse) in a two-dimensional world. But as the question stands that does not seem to be the case.\nNow, I can clarify a little.\na) The equation in the question is valid for ellipsoids of revolution, spheroids. The angle $\\phi$ is the azimuthal angle in a spherical coordinate system describing the axis of revolution of the spheroid.\nb) The original question arises because of the inverse tangent in the solution. The original derivation of the equation, due to <PERSON> (1922) DOI link (pdf), instead states (Eq. 48): $$ \\tan\\phi=\\frac{a}{b}\\tan\\frac{\\kappa abt}{a^2+b^2}.", "359" ], [ "$$ This leaves no ambiguity. The function $\\phi(t)$ is a solution of the equation of motion (Eq. 47): $$ (a^2+b^2)\\dot\\phi = \\kappa(a^2\\cos^2\\phi + b^2\\sin^2\\phi). $$ If this equation is integrated numerically one finds that $\\phi(t)$ grows monotonically (for physical values of the parameters).\nc) Depending on what application you have in mind, you may consider working directly with the cartesian components of the unit vector $\\mathbf n(t)$, instead of the spherical parametrization. The corresponding equation of motion is $$ \\dot{\\mathbf n}=\\mathbb O\\mathbf n + \\Lambda(\\mathbb S\\mathbf n-\\mathbf n \\mathbf n^T\\mathbb S \\mathbf n) $$ where the constant flow-gradient matrices $\\mathbb O$ and $\\mathbb S$ represent the flow, and the constant $\\Lambda$ represents the shape of the particle (related to $r$ in question). This equation is, perhaps surprisingly, exactly solvable by a simple matrix exponential: $$ \\mathbf n(t)=\\frac{\\exp[(\\mathbb O + \\Lambda \\mathbb S)t]\\mathbb n(0)}{|\\exp[(\\mathbb O + \\Lambda \\mathbb S)t]\\mathbb n(0)|} $$\nI recently wrote an introduction to this subject and the equations quoted. It is available here (free full text). You may be particularly interested in Sec 2.3 (p.23) and Appendix A for the generalization to triaxial ellipsoids.", "804" ], [ "Edit: As the comments seem to misinterpret my question, let me clarify it. I don't even understand what is the meaning of multiplying a vector (state) by a number with units such has $\\hbar$. By definition, in a vector space you can multiply by a vector by a scalar from the field of definition ($\\mathbb C$ in our case), but I can't make sense of multiplying by a number with units.\nI will build on the material in <PERSON>'s answer and my answer to 'Is 0m dimensionless? .\nIn physics, calculations are normally done with physical quantities, and not with real numbers. This is important, because physical quantities are not a field, since not all additions are well-defined.", "359" ], [ "Instead, the set of physical quantities is a set $$ \\mathcal P = {(q,d):q\\in \\mathbb C,d\\in \\mathbb Q^N} $$ whose elements consist of the quantity value $q$, which may be real but we allow in general to be complex, and the dimension, which is an $N$-tuple of rational numbers, with $N$ the number of algebraically-independent dimensions that you want to include in your theory.\nNow, as I said, $\\mathcal P$ is not a field, and instead it what you might call a field-with-dimensions, which is equipped with the following operations:\n* addition, $(q_1,d)+(q_2,d) = (q_1+q_2,d)$, when both quantities have equal dimension; and\n* multiplication, $(q_1,d_1)\\times(q_2,d_2) = (q_1\\times q_2, d_1+d_2)$.\nSince these are not field operations, the field axioms do not even make sense. However, they have transparent generalizations; if you really care about this then it's a good exercise to write them down.\nNow, this works thus far for scalar physics, but we have yet to touch vector spaces. Those are normally defined relative to a field, but we want to move away from those dimensionless mathematics, so we need to define a new structure, which you might call a vector-space-with-(physical)-dimensions. To do this we need a pre-existing vector space $V$ over $F=\\mathbb C$ (or $\\mathbb R$ as required), and we basically generate $\\mathbb Q$-fold copies of $V$, each with its own physical dimension: $$ V_\\mathcal P = {(v,d):v\\in V,d\\in \\mathbb Q^N}. $$ As above, we need to define the operations anew, and this is again transparent:\n* addition, $(v_1,d)+(v_2,d) = (v_1+v_2,d)$, when both vectors have equal physical dimension; and\n* scalar multiplication, $(s,d_1)\\times(v,d_2) = (s\\, v, d_1+d_2)$, for $s\\in \\mathbb F$ and $v\\in V$.\nSince these are not the algebraic operations of a vector space, the vector-space axioms no longer make sense, so instead they need to be generalized to this setting; again, the generalization is transparent and obvious.\nFinally, what happens with linear operators? We want to assign them physical dimensionality as well, so how is that done? Basically, again, by direct imposition: we define linear operators on vector-spaces-with-physical-dimensions as functions $$ A:V_\\mathcal P \\to V_\\mathcal P $$ with an assigned dimension $d_A$ such that $A(v,d_v)$ has dimension $(d_V+d_A)$ for every $(v,d_v)\\in V_\\mathcal P$, and such that\n* $A\\big((v_1,d_v)+(v_2,d_v)\\big) = A(v_1,d_v)+A(v_2,d_v)$; and\n* $A((s,d_s)\\times(v,d_v)) = (s,d_s)\\times A(v,d_v)$.\nAt least on the surface, this looks different enough to the normal definition of linear operator that the entire work needs to be repeated, but this is easy to avoid.", "499" ], [ "From group-theory perspective, what is Action?\nI'm trying to self-study group theory in relation to physics, so I apologize in advance if I'm missing something obvious here or if the question is not clear.\nWe know there is a symmetry group, which can be either <PERSON> group or <PERSON> group, acting on physical space: a set of transformations that change $(t,x,y,z) \\to (t',x',y',z')$ in a certain way.\nHowever, what we need study is how they act on the space of States, and States (in classical mechanics) include momenta. The relation between, say, $p^x$ and $(t,x,y,z)$ comes from the Action $A(t,x,y,z)$:\n$$ p^x = -\\partial A(t,x,y,z)/\\partial x $$ where $A(t,x,y,z)$ is the Action obeying Euler-Lagrange equations.\nSo there's this additional thing called Action which comes into play.", "669" ], [ "However, and it seems to me to be the key point, the Action cannot be chosen arbitrarily: it has to be constructed in such a way that a transformation from our group turns a solution of E-L equations into a solution of E-L equations with the same Action.\nIf we represent $A$ in the functional form: $$ A[x(t), y(t), z(t)] = \\int L(t,x(t),y(t),z(t),\\dot{x}(t), \\dot{y}(t), \\dot{z}(t)) dt $$ this condition implies that there exists a function $F(t,x,y,z)$, s.t. $$ L(t,x(t),y(t),z(t),\\dot{x}(t), \\dot{y}(t), \\dot{z}(t)) dt - L(t', x'(t'),y'(t'),z'(t'),\\dot{x}'(t'), \\dot{y}'(t'), \\dot{z}'(t')) dt' = dF $$ where primed values are related to unprimed values by our transformation.\nOne can check that given a particular group, it is possible to recover standard forms of galilean or relativistic actions (up to constants). For example, assuming homogeneity and isotropy of space and time, we can assume that $$ L(t,\\vec{x}, \\vec{v}) = \\mathscr{L}(\\vec{v}^2) $$ and then taking an infinitesimal transformation from Poincare group: $$ t' = t - (\\vec{u},\\vec{x})/c^2 $$ $$ \\vec{x}' = \\vec{x} - \\vec{u}t $$ we conclude that this condition can only be satisfied if $$ \\frac{\\mathscr{L}}{c^2} + 2\\left(1-\\frac{\\vec{v}^2}{c^2}\\right)\\mathscr{L}' = \\textrm{const} $$ Solving it, we get $$ \\mathscr{L} = \\textrm{const}\\times c^2 + \\textrm{const}_2\\times\\sqrt{1-\\frac{\\vec{v}^2}{c^2}} $$ To recover the standard form just set $\\textrm{const} = 0$, $\\textrm{const}_2 = -mc^2$.\nSo, we have this full-differential condition which is some sort of condition on $L$ and hence on $A$, arising from the group we study.\nMy question is: from the group-theory perspective, what is this condition? What can we learn about $L$ (or $A$) given just the group, without explicitly solving the equation above?", "804" ] ]

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[ [ "During his confrontation with <PERSON> on Mustafar, <PERSON> was first maimed by lightsabre cuts. He lost both legs around the knees, and much of his left arm. He fell onto a slope of volcanic sand, and slid helplessly to the edge of a lava river. His body ignited due to heat radiated off that flow. His lungs were scorched by the hot gases he inhaled. [Revenge of the Sith novel; graphic novel; childrens' novel.]\nThis explains most (but not all) of Lord <PERSON>'s injuries. <PERSON> may have experienced mishaps between the films. He may have lost more flesh from his limbs before his final fight at Endor.", "605" ], [ "His spinal damage may have resulted from an accidental fall into a pit on Mimban [in Splinter of the Mind's Eye, though the book doesn't show how badly he was hurt]. Lord <PERSON> could have suffered extra injuries during his hunts for surviving Jedi and the Clone Wars campaigns that continued after the Empire was proclaimed.\nNonetheless, if the passages from Return of the Jedi are taken literally, the worst of <PERSON>'s injuries result from serious burns inflicted when he fell in a volcanic environment\nhttp://www.theforce.net/swtc/injuries.html#origin\nNote that the bulk of the content was written in the mid 1990s; well before the prequels came out.\n<PERSON>'s back, specifically his spine, was not whole.[9] <PERSON> at some time had suffered serious spinal injury in the upper neck. However, his injuries on <PERSON> did not affect the spine.[1] This forced <PERSON> to wear a thick electrode-studded collar that supported his helmet to safeguard the cybernetic devices that replaced his upper vertebrae.\nhttp://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Darth_Vader's_armor#Spine\nHowever, this newer source seems to corroborate a single serious injury to <PERSON>'s spine after the battle at Mustafar.\nIn the Splinter of the Mind's Eye novel, there was a battle between <PERSON> and <PERSON> at Mimban, but the summaries seem to conflict somewhat. However, after skimming my copy of the novel, the summary from the novel is correct.\nThey continue to battle and <PERSON>, his actions guided by the spirit of <PERSON> and his power augmented by the Kaiburr crystal, strikes <PERSON>'s sword arm, severing it. Undaunted, <PERSON> picks up his lightsaber with his remaining arm, and again pursues the exhausted <PERSON>. <PERSON>, also exhausted, is about to win, staggering as he approaches to make the killing blow, and he falls into a pit; <PERSON> senses that this does not kill <PERSON>.\nhttp://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Splinter_of_the_Mind's_Eye\nEvery movement of <PERSON> was guided by the spirit of <PERSON> and empowered by the crystal, so the young boy amazingly managed to hold <PERSON> off, even managing to sever the Dark Lord's mechanical arm. Shocked, <PERSON> tumbled down a deep pit, ending their duel. This was the first battle between <PERSON> and <PERSON>.\nhttp://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Mimban", "605" ], [ "The Jedi Order was founded in 25,783 BBY, and their philosophies -- such as the distinction between the light side and dark side of the Force -- developed over the next few centuries. They served as the guardians of the Republic since its foundation. It wasn't until around 4,000 BBY, however, that the Jedi began to forbid marriage and attachment.\nPractically speaking, this is due to the structure of the Expanded Universe. Before the Prequels came out, EU writers had to avoid the Prequel Era so as to avoid contradictions with later material. For the most part, the EU covered events in between the Original Trilogy movies and after Return of the Jedi. In order to explore new time periods and characters, works like Knights of the Old Republic were set 4,000 to 5,000 years before A New Hope and featured Jedi marrying with no problem. When the prohibition of marriage was revealed in Episode II, it only made sense in the EU if it started after 4,000 BBY.\nIn-universe, the new rule prohibiting marriage is justified by changes in the structure of the Jedi Council and Jedi Order. Before 4,000 BBY, the Jedi Order was made up of loosely affiliated local groups. After the Great Sith War, they became a unified organization under the Jedi High Council, which began to reinterpret the Jedi Code. Among the new regulations were the prohibition of marriage and the idea that Jedi must begin their training as very young children.\nSource: http://scifi.about.com/od/starwarsglossaryandfaq/a/Star-Wars-FAQ_Why-Cant-Jedi-Marry.htm\nAnother difference in the portrayal of the Jedi pre- and post-1999 is the existence of Jedi families. During the <PERSON> era, it was established that Jedi could marry and have families, and several of the characters were the descendants of Jedi Knights, including <PERSON> (Dark Empire II; <PERSON>, 1994) and <PERSON> (I, Jedi; <PERSON>, 1998). <PERSON> had a spouse named <PERSON>, and the Imperial warship Eye of Palpatine was meant to attack Belsavis, a planet housing the children of Jedi Knights (Children of the Jedi; Hambly, 1995).", "503" ], [ "Jedi of the Old Republic during the Sith Era also had families; <PERSON> and <PERSON> were married and had a daughter, <PERSON> (Tales of the Jedi: The Saga of Nomi Sunrider; Veitch, 1993). Then, Episode II firmly established the idea that Jedi could not marry nor have children, due to the risks of falling to the Dark Side associated with attachment to your spouse/offspring. Also, according to <PERSON>, Jedi were not permitted to have children to avoid creating Jedi family dynasties, which would have undue influence in the Order (I think this was from Destiny’s Way; <PERSON>, 2002). As a result, retcons were required. <PERSON> had his son <PERSON> without the permission of the Jedi Council, and so was severely reprimanded (The New Essential Guide to Characters; <PERSON>, 2002). There were two interpretations of <PERSON> circumstance. Either <PERSON> had special dispensation to have his son <PERSON> (who became <PERSON>, <PERSON>’s father) due to cultural considerations (Elusion Illusion; <PERSON>, 2003) or <PERSON> married and had a child without permission, keeping it hidden from the Jedi Council (Jedi Trial; Sherman and Cragg, 2004). Ultimately, any Jedi offspring dating from that era (such as <PERSON>) could be explained by the child being conceived with special dispensation from, or against the will of, the Jedi Council. <PERSON> and <PERSON> were members of <PERSON> Jedi sect, which allowed marriage (Order 66; <PERSON>, 2008). The children of the Jedi located on Belvasis were retconned into being Apprentices and Padawans, not offspring (The New Essential Guide to Characters; <PERSON>, 2002). Last, issue 23 of Knights of the Old Republic established that there was a shift in Jedi thinking following the Great Sith War (<PERSON>, 2007). Jedi would continue to have relationships and families for some years; Grand Master <PERSON> had a son, <PERSON> (The Old Republic 7; <PERSON>, 2011), but by the time of the Ruusan Reformations, the Jedi Order would ban marriage and conception.\nsource: http://www.eucantina.net/archives/11067", "605" ], [ "Is there any detail in the canon to suggest where The Liberty and the Tantive IV met to transmit the Death Star plans?\nPursuant to comments made by @tjd and <PERSON> in my answer to this question, I will reproduce the note that I made:\nThe points raised by @tjd and <PERSON>, in the comments to this answer, are solid. Why Leia was in the Tatoo system to begin with depends on a question I could not find an answer to; namely, at what point between Polis Massa/Darknell and Tatooine, did the Tantive IV (Leia's ship) attempt to transmit the now complete Death Star plans to the Liberty? The Death Star plans were not stolen all at once, but as described in Operation Skyhook, in a series of actions that started in AX-235 or Danuta (the canon is contradictory but seems to favor <PERSON>), then Toprawa. The Tantive IV then moved to Polis Massa and Darknell to receive the last parts of the plans, both of which are due west of Tatooine in the 'south' the of galaxy.\nI could not find in the canon where the Liberty and Tantive IV met to attempt to transfer the plans before being intercepted/interrupted by the Immortal.", "865" ], [ "From there the Tantive IV and a rebel detachment moved to the Tatoo sector but their general location was betrayed by U-3PO during the Battle of Tatooine. Their specific location in the system was given away when they tried to activate an uplink station, and then <PERSON> and his contingent moved in, leading to the capture of <PERSON>.\nThe attempted activation of the uplink station still supports that <PERSON> was again trying to transmit the plans (from an out-of-the-way location), rather than being in the Tatoo system to deliver them (which she wasn't, she was there to recruit <PERSON>). She would not have used the HoloNet as it was controlled by the Empire and she most likely could not have transmitted the plans over any large distance via hyperwave communication due its limitations, so it is reasonable that she would have dropped out of hyperspace in an out-of-the-way place to transmit the plans as securely as she could.\nIs there any evidence in the canon to suggest where the Liberty and the Tantive IV met to attempt this transmission?", "865" ], [ "Canon\nThe official Star Wars Databank has this to say:\nIf ever one needed an example of the irredeemable evil that was the Empire, turn to the shattered remains of Alderaan. An influential world, Alderaan was represented in the waning days of the Republic by such venerated politicians as <PERSON> and <PERSON>. A peaceful world, Alderaan was bereft of weaponry in an era of galactic strife. It was not without spirit, however. Alderaan was one of the earliest supporters of the Alliance to Restore the Republic, though its officials prudently kept all ties to the Rebellion secret.", "503" ], [ "Despite such discretion, the Empire knew it to be a haven of Rebel activity, and Grand Moff <PERSON> targeted the beautiful world for reprisal as soon as the Death Star was operational. The massive primary weapon of the battle station obliterated Alderaan, leaving only a lifeless asteroid field behind.\nWookieepedia (citing Star Wars Rebels – \"A Princess on Lothal\") says this:\nDuring this time, Alderaan became the Alliance's main source of munitions. The planet's crown princess and representative in the Imperial Senate, Princess <PERSON>, adoptive daughter of <PERSON> and <PERSON>, began using her diplomatic immunity as an Imperial senator to carry out Rebel missions in restricted Imperial systems.\nLegends\nIn Star Wars: Battlefront II, a 501st trooper says this:\n\"For all their talk of being a peaceful planet, Alderaan had been thumbing its nose at the Empire for years.\"\nThe Star Wars: Imperial Handbook: A Commander's Guide labels Alderaan as one of the Empire's priority targets for providing political and strategic aid to the Alliance.\nWookieepedia says this (although they didn't cite their source so take it with a grain of salt):\nImmediately after the formation of the Galactic Empire, Alderaan was wracked by anti-Imperial protests, mainly from alien refugees who were now forced to pay an exorbitant tax to return home. Alderaan eventually became a safe haven for rebellious elements who wished to fight the growing oppression of the Empire, which helped bring on the planet's very downfall.\nIncluded among the population was a group of Caamasi refugees depicted in the novel I, Jedi, for example, that fled to Alderaan after an Imperial bombardment destroyed their planet. They were most definitely Rebel sympathizers.\nConclusion - YES\nWhile it's hard to determine what percentage of the Alderaan people were pro-Rebellion, it had a reputation for being very sympathetic to the Alliance which should be sufficient for the question.\nIt's generally understood that a significant portion of the galaxy's population didn't like the Empire but any official stance against the regime would carry significant consequences and violent suppression. Therefore, Alderaan, being a peaceful planet, was officially aligned with the Empire but both its political figures and its people had a reputation of secretly being very influential supporters of the Rebellion.", "503" ], [ "How were <PERSON>, <PERSON>, and <PERSON> physically trapped by a ray shield?\nIn Revenge of the Sith, <PERSON>, <PERSON>, and <PERSON> are trapped by a ray shield on the Separatist ship the Invisible Hand:\nIt is specifically called it a \"ray shield\" by multiple characters:\n60 INT. BRIDGE-TRADE FEDERATION CRUISER\nBODYGUARD: General, we found the Jedi. They're in hallway 328.\nGENERAL GRIEVOUS: Activate ray shields.\n61 INT. HALLWAY-TRADE FEDERATION CRUISER\nThey run down the hallway. Suddenly, ray shields drop around them, putting them in an electronic box in the middle of the hallway.\n<PERSON>: Ray shields!\nHowever, ray shields are (usually) only capable of stopping energy like blaster bolts.", "605" ], [ "To physically block an object you need a particle shield.\nThe fact that ray shields do not block physical objects is supported by the (fully canon) Star Wars: The Clone Wars episode \"Landing at Point Rain\", in which <PERSON> was seeing running through a ray shield along with clone troopers1:\nThis shield is described as a ray shield in the episode description:\n...On Geonosis, Separatist leader <PERSON>, safe in his newly ray-shielded factories, creates thousands of terrible new weapons which march off the assembly line against the outnumbered clone army...\nRay shields' inability to block physical objects is also supported as a major plot point in A New Hope during the Battle of Yavin briefing:\n<PERSON>: The target area is only two meters wide. It's a small thermal exhaust port, right below the main port. The shaft leads directly to the reactor system. A precise hit will start a chain reaction which should destroy the station. Only a precise hit will set up a chain reaction. The shaft is ray-shielded, so you'll have to use proton torpedoes.\nThe Rebels needed to use proton torpedoes (as opposed to, say, the X-Wing's four blaster cannons) because proton torpedoes are physical objects:\nHence, the Death Star was only destroyed because its ray shielded thermal exhaust port was vulnerable to physical proton torpedoes.\nHow were <PERSON>, <PERSON>, and <PERSON> physically impeded by the Separatist ray shield when the plot in two other canon sources depended on ray shields' inability to block physical objects (including humans)?\nNote that this question is not tagged with [tag:star-wars-legends] -- I have provisionally accepted the Legends answer, but I am still looking for a canon answer.\n1 GIF taken from 15:44 of this Youtube video.", "963" ], [ "What led <PERSON> to conclude that <PERSON> was a Sith?\nThis question is similar to this one pertaining to <PERSON> assessment, but there are different circumstances that I think are noteworthy, and therefore justify a separate question. When <PERSON> explained his conclusion to <PERSON>, they had now seen what <PERSON> was capable of, as he had fought two Jedi, and successfully killed one of them (a very well-experienced Jedi Master).\nHowever, when <PERSON> first fought against <PERSON>, it was the first time that any Jedi had seen him (at least as far as what the films show; and none of those present during <PERSON> subsequent meeting with the Jedi Council had any prior knowledge of <PERSON>), and <PERSON> spent very little time fighting against him at that point. When <PERSON> escaped by boarding the <PERSON>'s ship, he had this exchange with <PERSON>:\n<PERSON> : What was it?\n<PERSON>-<PERSON> : I'm not sure... but he was well trained in the Jedi arts.", "605" ], [ "My guess is he was after the Queen...\nAnd later, when he relayed his experience and his conclusion to the Jedi Council:\n<PERSON><PERSON><PERSON> : ...my only conclusion can be that it was a Sith Lord.\n<PERSON>-<PERSON> : Impossible! The Sith have been extinct for a millennium.\n<PERSON> : I do not believe the Sith could have returned without us knowing.\nSo, considering the Council's skepticism of <PERSON>'s affiliation due to how long the Sith have been absent from the Jedi's affairs in the galaxy (and thought to have been long-extinct), what was it that led <PERSON> to believe that <PERSON> was a Sith Lord? I understand that it was probably easy to conclude that he wasn't a fallen Jedi, but why not some other type of Dark Jedi? The definition of Dark Jedi (at least according to Wookieepedia) is a Force-sensitive that adheres to the Dark Side, but isn't a Sith. In fact, if we rely on Legends, there were a few notable examples of Dark Jedi, such as <PERSON>, then there was <PERSON> during what became known as the Dark Jedi Conflict, and, most notably, there was <PERSON> former Padawan <PERSON>. And, on another note, <PERSON> was a Dathomirian Zabrak, not a Sith Pureblood.\nBased on what <PERSON> knew at the time, wouldn't it have been the more logical to conclude that Darth <PERSON> was actually a previously unknown Dark Jedi?\nNote: While I drew upon Legends information in forming my question, an answer from either Canon or Legends is acceptable (depending on what information is available). If possible, answers for each are appreciated.", "605" ], [ "It was inevitable, at the moment he met <PERSON>\n<PERSON>-<PERSON> was not going win that lightsaber duel.\n<PERSON>: When I left you, I but the learner; now I am the master.\n<PERSON><PERSON><PERSON>: Only a master of evil, <PERSON>.\n<PERSON>: Your powers are weak old man.\n<PERSON><PERSON><PERSON>: You can't win. If you strike me down, I shall be more powerful than you can possibly imagine.\n<PERSON> was the Chosen One, trained by a Sith Lord. He was incredibly powerful. <PERSON> doesn't disagree with <PERSON>; he just knows that he doesn't have to win the battle to win the war.\nIt was inevitable, at the moment they arrived at the Death Star\n<PERSON>: I sense something...a presence I haven't felt since...\n...\n<PERSON>: <PERSON> is here. The Force is with him.\n<PERSON>: If you're right, he must not be allowed to escape.\n<PERSON>: Escape is not his plan.", "605" ], [ "I must face him alone.\n<PERSON> separated himself from the others because he knew what would happen.\nIt was tactically necessary, at the moment he saw the Millennium Falcon\nIf <PERSON>-<PERSON> retreated to the ship with the most powerful Dark Jedi in the galaxy in tow, it would have all but doomed the mission.\nIf <PERSON>-<PERSON> stayed and resisted as long as possible, it would have meant <PERSON>'s death. Only once <PERSON>-<PERSON> died, did <PERSON> retreat to the ship.\n<PERSON>: Only a fully trained Jedi knight with the Force as his ally will conquer <PERSON> and his emperor.\nWithout <PERSON> (or <PERSON>...), there would be no hope of winning against the Empire. <PERSON> had dedicated his life to watching, safeguarding, and training <PERSON>; he wasn't about to renege.\nTrap, or not\nEven if <PERSON> somehow knew of the trap for the Rebels, it wouldn't have changed anything. The Jedi were the only real threat to <PERSON> and the Emperor. If <PERSON> escaped on the Falcon, <PERSON> may have decided to remove the larger threat, and save the Rebel base for later.\nIt was best\nAs good a training record as <PERSON>-wan had (or not), <PERSON> was going to be the better teacher. Whether <PERSON>-<PERSON> was alive or not, <PERSON> would have traveled to Dagobah and be taught by <PERSON>.\nBut as a \"powerful\" omnipresent Force ghost, <PERSON> could guide him wherever he was.", "605" ], [ "<PERSON>'s Order spans about a thousand years and most of the Sith Masters are unknown. We can only consider the few known Sith Masters, so we will underestimate the number of Sith Masters who obeyed the Rule of Two as well as the number who disobeyed it. This means the claim that \"precious few\" Sith Lords obeyed it can still be true if most of the unknown Sith Lords disobeyed it.\nCanon\nFrom Wookieepedia's list of Sith Lords, the following Sith Masters are known in canon:\n* <PERSON>: yes\n* <PERSON>'s unnamed apprentice: yes\n* Sith Lord of Gairm: unknown\n* <PERSON>: unknown. We only know of one apprentice (<PERSON>) but there could be others we don't know about.\n* <PERSON>: yes. He had multiple apprentices (<PERSON>, <PERSON>, and <PERSON>) but he only had one at a time.\nOf the known Sith Lords, at least three of them followed the Rule of Two.\nLegends\nFrom Wookieepedia's list of Sith Lords from the Order of the Sith Lords (<PERSON>'s order), the following Sith Masters are known:\n* <PERSON>: yes\n* <PERSON> (<PERSON>'s apprentice, only named in Legends): yes, one apprentice (<PERSON>)\n* <PERSON>: yes, one apprentice (<PERSON>)\n* <PERSON>: no.", "605" ], [ "Millennial was a heretic who explicitly rejected the Rule of Two.\n* Unidentified male humanoid Sith Master: probably. We only know of one apprentice, but we know so little about him that it's possible he didn't strictly obey the Rule of Two.\n* Unidentified male Devaronian Sith Master: unknown. We don't know of any of his apprentice(s).\n* <PERSON>: yes, one apprentice (<PERSON>)\n* <PERSON>: yes, one apprentice (<PERSON>)\n* <PERSON>: yes, only one apprentice but unnamed\n* <PERSON>'s unnamed apprentice: unknown\n* <PERSON>: unknown\n* Darth <PERSON>' unnamed Master: yes\n* <PERSON>: no, at least two apprentices (<PERSON> and <PERSON>)\n* <PERSON>: yes, one apprentice (<PERSON>)\n* <PERSON>: no. He had a vast number of apprentices, and some at the same time (e.g. <PERSON> and <PERSON>).\nNote: I don't consider Sith Lords before <PERSON> or after <PERSON> because those Sith Lords do not belong to <PERSON>'s order and thus would not follow the Rule of Two anyway.\nI count at least eight Sith Masters who obeyed the Rule of Two, possibly a few more.", "605" ] ]

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[ [ "For those who have never had the pleasure of personally doing this, see this video. It has been known since 1807 that dissolving sodium in liquid ammonia results in a beautiful color. It was originally thought the color was due to some familiar complex instead of a solvated electron. A similar phenomenon happens with other alkali metals in ammonia.\nResearch in the field says that it takes, at least, forty some ammonia molecules to solvate a given electron. Metstable cavities form and their stability could depend highly on electrostatic interactions to solvate our electron. Ammonia will slowly react by evolving hydrogen gas,\n$$ 2NH_3 + 2e^- \\rightarrow H_2 + 2NH_2 ^-$$\nDifferences in solvent can play a huge role in the stability of our solvated electron. An analogous decomposition occurs in water, $$ 2H_2O + 2e^- \\rightarrow H_2 + 2 HO^- $$\nFamously the latter occurs faster than the former, see here in comparison to my earlier link.", "979" ], [ "We could say that these differences in rate reflect different stabilities of our solvated electron. Although, the addition of an appropriate catalyst to our ammonia will result in rapid evolution of hydrogen.\nA more quantitative description for the difference in energies is obtained by measuring the UV-vis spectrum for a solvated electron in both water and ammonia. One will quickly notice that the band appears at higher energies in water than it does in ammonia and there are considerable differences in the band shapes (the band is wider in ammonia).\nSo Why Do They Differ\nSo here I have to make the disclaimer that no current theories quantitatively reproduce the observed phenomena, such as the absorption spectrum for a solvated electron. This question has no established/accepted answer as it is an ongoing area of research.\nThe self-ionization of water has an equilibrium constant on the order of K = $10^{-14}$ and that of ammonia is on the order of $10^{-30}$. Hydronium formation occurs in the case of water and ammonium in the case of ammonia. Hydronium has a considerably lower pKa than ammonium and so it's reasonable to see why a reaction in water would be more likely with an electron. (Ammonia rarely produces a weakly acidic species, but water often produces a strongly acidic complex.)\nA slightly deeper reason may be that water forms more ordered local domains/structures in solution than ammonia and this influences the rate by resulting in a larger entropy of activation when the hydrolyzed electron breaks up these larger structures, recall that $k \\propto \\exp (\\Delta S ^\\ddagger /R) $.\nJust speculation though.", "979" ], [ "An approach using a classical model of electron flow\nYou can think of an electron flowing through a medium as analogous to a pinball bouncing around a pinball machine. The electric (potential) energy difference driving the displacement of the electron is analogous to the gravitational energy difference in the pinball machine. Now consider two pinball machines with differing numbers of obstacles to a falling pinball. The time it takes for a pinball to reach the bottom in each machine would be different by virtue of these obstacles (on average, taking more time with more obstacles). Similarly, the flow of electrons, I, in the presence of an electric potential, V, is higher for media with less resistance, R , to electron flow. We can use this model (<PERSON> see below) to understand Ohm's law: $$I = \\frac{V}{R}$$ The observation that electrons flow more readily through electrolyte solutions than non-electrolyte solutions indicates that solutions with charge carriers reduce the resistance of the media. A better understanding of why this is true at a molecular level will require a more in depth look. Notice, though, that we now have answers to your good questions!\n\"What happens once the charges get to the electrodes?\"\nThe sodium stays in solution as an ion, but the hydrogen ion (from the hydrolysis of water) can be reduced to form hydrogen gas at the cathode, and the chlorine ion can be oxidized to form chlorine gas at the anode. Electrons can be passed through the solution as solvated electrons under some circumstances, but this is unlikely due to the larger energy barrier to this process (around 3 eV). With sufficient energy, these electrons (called solvated electrons) flow through metal and solutions.", "780" ], [ "The resistance to electron flow in metals is much less than in electrolyte solutions, though.\n\"Would it cause the water to split into hydrogen gas and hydroxide ions?\" and \"I would expect the sodium, once given an electron, to be looking for a way to give that electron back.\"\nAny additional redox reaction would require electric potential. You mentioned the splitting of water or the formation of sodium metal. This would not occur according to the standard electrode potential unless the electric potential provided is sufficiently high to overcome the \"uphill\" energy barrier and as you mention electrolysis would be involved.\nThe Drude Model\nIn 1900, <PERSON> used the following schematic of a lattice of metal ions sitting in a sea of electrons to derive a relationship between electron flow and electric potential applied.\nDrude Model electrons (shown here in blue) constantly bounce between heavier, stationary crystal ions (shown in red). -From wikipedia entry on Drude model.\nA metal's electrical resistance, R, (as seen in Ohm's law above) should take the form:\n$$R = \\left(\\frac{m}{nq^2\\tau}\\right)$$\nwhere, $m$ is mass of electron; $n$ is number density of electrons; $q$ is charge of electron and $\\tau$ is the mean free path. While this classical model does not explain the resistances for all substances perfectly and quantum mechanics can be used to do a better job, it does suggest that if the mean free path for electron flow is increased and the assumptions of the model are valid, the electrical resistance of the media should be reduced.\nOne way to understand why there is lower electrical resistance (higher electrical conductance) in aqueous solutions of electrolytes is that there is less water in the way of the Drude ion lattice! In other words, in the limit that the solution is a molten salt, we approach a Drudian model. As you add more and more molecules of water to this model, you are reducing the mean free path of the electron and increasing the resistance of the solution.\nNotes\n1. The fact that an electrolyte solution is comprised of positive and negative ions does not diminish the utility of <PERSON>'s model: electrons are equally attracted (and speed up) moving toward a (metal) cation as they are attracted (and slow down) moving away from a metal cation. The situation is reversed but the effect is the same for a nonmetal anion.\n2. For more evidence of the utility of note 1., read about the additive nature of the molar electrical conductance (inverse of resistance) of ions (cations and anions): <PERSON>'s Law of independent migration of ions. The additive nature suggests that both cations and anions improve the conductance of an electrolyte solution as the note above suggests.", "662" ], [ "First, let's get to the root of this problem, then I'll double back to your question. We are asked which of the two compounds is most acidic. As a side note there are various definitions of acidity, but note that broadly these theories describe acidity as linked to propensity to accept electron pairs in some form rather than general instability.\nConsidering neither II nor III have any immediately acidic functionalities (alcohol, carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid), we identify the alpha carbons of the carbonyl functionalities in each molecules as the most acidic hydrogens with pka ~20-25 (since all other hydrogens are alkyl (pKa ~50) and cannot form a stable conjugate base upon deprotonation).\nWith that in mind, the real difference between II and III is the identity of the carbonyl group. Comparing II to III we see II is an ester, with the carbonyl center bonded to an alkoxyl substituent and an alkyl substituent. Comparatively, III is a ketone, with its carbonyl center bound to to alkyl substituents. Recognizing that O lone pairs can hybridize to conjugate with the carbonyl center were C atoms cannot, we predict III to be more acidic.\nThe reasoning for this can be approached from a couple of angles, so here's two: 1. O lone pairs present in II destabilize the enol formed by deprotonation, making it more likely to donate electrons (I.E has more basic character than III), thus making its conjugate acid form less acidic (since weaker acids have conjugate bases that are stronger bases and vice versa)\n1. O lone pairs can form an additional bond to the carbonyl carbon in a octet-satisfied resonance contributor, which greatly reduces the contribution of the analogous hyperconjugative resonance contributor with dissociation of H+.", "979" ], [ "Note that this hyperconjugative contributor is a rather poor description in a thermodynamic sense, but it does play an effective stand in for a mechanism with a basic species.\nNow to your actual question: You are correct with your analysis of the pi system of II, but I would note that your description is using atomic orbitals which can become very confusing in the world of ochem. In the hand-wavy hybridization terms, each oxygen would adopt an sp2 bonding orbital hybridization with unhybridized p orbitals participating in the pi-system. However, these pi-interactions can only occur if sequential atoms have unhybridized p orbitals.\nThis is due to the fact that the stability of pi systems arises from overlap of p orbitals. When two p orbitals are close enough to overlap, their wavefunctions can recombine into relatively lower energy (bonding) and relatively higher energy (antibonding) wavefunctions which become orbitals. This same recombination can occur for any number of p-orbitals, with the sole condition being that overlap actually occurs.\nThis can only have a fully stabilizing effect when atoms are ~1.20-1.5 angstroms apart as indicated by spectroscopic bond lengths. Overlap is feasible between single-bonded substituents (Like C-O in II), but impossible once the continuous system of unhybridized p orbitals is broken.\nThus while the O in II can directly conjugate its electrons with the carbonyl pi system by \"rehybridizing\" from the general expected sp3 hybridization to stabilize the system, in III there are no adjacent unhybridized p orbitals to interact with the carbonyl pi system. The only electronic interactions present between the substituent (cyclic ether) and the carbonyl system would be inductive/field effects.\nWhile one could argue that a conformer of III could possibly involve delocalization of O p electrons into the carbonyl system, I would respond by noting that such a conformer 1. Would have to have an unhybridized O p-orbital in order to be involved with pi interactions 2. Would have to have a torsional angle Θ between the oxygen and the carbonyl group of Θ=/=0 in order for overlap to actually occur (Distance between orbitals r<~1.5).\nHowever, this would mean that the oxygen's unhybridized p orbital and the carbonyl pi system would have different symmetry elements, meaning such a pi-interaction would be symmetry-forbidden\nThat last bit might be jumping the shark a little, but I hope this helps!", "724" ], [ "The EPR experiment measures the interaction of unpaired spin density ($\\rho(\\alpha)$) at the nuclei. This is quantified by an equation called the Fermi contact interaction.\nIf you have some prior knowledge of \"where to put the dot\" in your structure (highly localized), then generally you can assume that the EPR pattern is split most by that nucleus. Splitting patterns are determined by standard rules in accord with the <PERSON> effect.\nThe nucleus must have a non-zero nuclear spin to be observable. Certain nuclei such as hydrogen-1 and many transition metals have spin. It is very common that isotopic impurities (e.g. carbon-13) appear though the most prevalent isotope is EPR-silent.\n(There are other complications, such as nuclear quadrupole moment and broadening due to exchange of chemical sites.)\nAn additional issue is that the spin density is generally spread over the molecule, and interacts with multiple nuclei.", "469" ], [ "It turns out to be easier to measure the spectrum, and then rationalize it given the particular structure and nuclear composition.\nAccurate prediction of EPR spectra is a rather difficult problem, as quantum chemical calculations generally don't emphasize basis function placement at the nucleus, as they tend to focus on the \"valence\" and not the cusp-like nature of the radial distribution. (Here, Slater-type orbitals would be better in principle than Gaussian-type, but STOs of sufficient number and of high-enough quality of Hamiltonian are virtually impossible). Finally, solvent and powder effects can render the gas-phase ab initio calculations virtually irrelevant.\nEPR simulation/interpretation of fine structure is much more difficult than NMR spectra, because in NMR spectra, one has the chemical shift to conveniently move splitting patterns out of the way. In EPR, the splittings are often \"piled\" on top of each other, and make it necessary to use computer simulation to obtain precise fits.\nIn your specific example, I would identify the nuclei with spin (probably Cu, certainly phosphorus-31, and then hydrogen-1). Then, identify where you think the unpaired density will be, and then take the nuclear spin + 1 and that will be the \"guesstimated\" isotropic spectrum. The pattern will follow some variant <PERSON>'s triangle if I=1/2, otherwise, you have to figure it out by writing out the number of possible configurations.\nEdit: I have not even started on the characteristics of triplet spectra, as here the electrons interact. One thing you can hope for is that all of your electrons are paired (singlet), and so it's EPR silent.", "969" ], [ "This is provided as a comment as much as anything - but a lengthy one, in order to address some concerns I have with the accepted answer - not that it is entirely incorrect. There is much too much emphasis on H-bonding, and not enough about exchange in order to justify whether one observes coupling or not.\nThe loss of coupling in this instance is a classic example of exchange decoupling. The reason that the coupling disappears is due to exchange processes. The important part in factoring whether coupling will be observed relates to whether there are any mechanisms that will promote or inhibit this exchange. H-bonding may be a mechanism to reduce exchange at low temperature, however it is also a well-established mechanism that promotes exchange especially at higher concentrations. The original paper by <PERSON> and <PERSON> in 1958 clearly demonstrated that the observation of coupling in methanol was dependent on reduced concentrations which lower the probability of H-bonding. The opposite could be argued for ethanol, and Shoolery (also in 1958) showed that higher concentrations of ethanol actually give rise to observation of coupling between alcohol and CH2.", "979" ], [ "Neat ethanol clearly shows this coupling at room temperature. This is also explained by H-bonding mechanisms giving rise to stable dimers and higher order oligomers, which in fact undergo very fast signal averaging (exchange). So, H-bonding is not the answer for whether coupling is observed - it is purely a factor to consider in determining whether active exchange pathways exist for chemical exchange.\nIn a nutshell, a dilute sample of methanol in acetone will show splitting quite clearly at RT, but a concentrated sample does not. <PERSON> quite rightly points out that using a dry solvent will improve your chances of observing coupling. Choice of solvent is critical, and aprotic and nonpolar solvents, removed of any acidic impurities help to promote observation of coupling. I use dry pyridine-d5 with a number of sugars to demonstrate coupling through to alcohol protons, and then add a drop of D2O to make them disappear. Dry CCl4 is another great solvent, and will easily allow the observation of couplings in a dilute sample of methanol. Methanol is used as a low temperature thermometer and low temperature calibration standard down to about 180K, and coupling is never observed in these samples.", "979" ], [ "Your proposed reaction is unlikely\nThat is because the combination $\\ce{CaF2 + H2O}$ (under tap water conditions) is much more stable than $\\ce{CaO + 2 HF}$. In other words, the electronic energy of the former is lower and the system preferably stays in this state. That does not mean, however, that the reaction does not occur! It just means that the concentration of the products is incredibly small and probably you would not be able to detect them at all. Because of this, chemists tend to say that it does not take place, although that is technically incorrect.\nHF does occur, but in tiny concentrations.\nI think there is a more likely way how HF would form. Let us look at the reactions that are necessary to have $\\ce{HF}$ in the fluoridated water. The first step is the solvation of the solid fluoride ($\\ce{NaF}$ or $\\ce{CaF2}$) in water: $\\ce{NaF2(s) <=> Na+(aq) + F-(aq)}$ or $\\ce{CaF2(s) <=> Ca+(aq) + 2 F-(aq)}$, respectively. Sodium and calcium ions are stable in aqueous solution, so we can neglect them in the next steps.", "870" ], [ "Just imagine that they are still in the water, surrounded by water molecules. The second and last step is the fluoride ion reaction with water. According to Wikipedia, the reaction $\\ce{F- + H2O <=> HF + OH-}$ has a $pK_b$ value of 10.8. This means: $$ pK_b = -lg(K_b) \\Rightarrow K_b = 10^{-pK_b} $$ $$ K_b = \\frac{[\\ce{HF}] \\cdot [\\ce{OH-}]}{[\\ce{F-}]} = 10^{-10.8}$$\nSo here we can see that in a solution containing only fluoride ions and inert counterions, the portion of hydrofluoric acid is incredibly low! As mentioned above, you would probably not be able to detect it.\n<PERSON>\nCunningham's Law worked here for me in the comments.\nGenerally speaking, if you have a chain of reactions that amounts to nothing happening, it just doesn't happen in the first place. It is as simple as that.\nThat is a severe misunderstanding of chemical reaction dynamics. In fact, the exact opposite is true: If you have a chain of reactions, all of them happen! The question is only to which extent, which I tried to answer above. See here and here for more details.", "979" ], [ "The Quantum Theory of Atoms in Molecules (QTAIM) provides a fairly unambiguous answer. First, I would like demonstrate the concept of an Atomic Basin. A region of space belongs to a given atom if the steepest ascent path through the electron density terminates at that atom. Consider a plane that contains the nuclei of the water molecule:\nand the atomic basins could also be represented in 3D:\nThese atomic basins are the QTAIM definitions of ATOMS in MOLECULES.", "28" ], [ "Note that there are gradient paths for each atom that extend to infinity, hence each atom could be considered an \"external atom.\" (This is a quite trivial case, of course.)\nNow consider formamide in this configuration:\nThe atomic basins of form amide look like:\nYou can see that the carbon atom is fairly \"inaccessible\" in the plane of the molecule, but it does have some extent \"peeking\" out of the plane of the molecule (here, the maroon-colored basin, sorry for change-up in color):\nThis is a completely general concept, and so can be extended to any scenario. Here is a molecular graph of thiol on a silver cluster (meant to mimic a surface) (note the bond paths unambiguously show which atoms are bonded to what, even for C-Ag, S-Ag, H-Ag interactions where these \"cooked-up\" rules of hybridized bonding and \"valency\" are totally out of their league):\nPlotting the atomic basins is just an exercise:\nThe final answer: you can define \"interior atoms\" as QTAIM atomic basins that do not have steepest ascent trajectories starting at infinity that terminate at that atom, such as an interior silver atom in the above example. If you are conceptually separating a system into a substrate and an adsorbate, then you could say \"exterior\" atoms of the substrate include the ones that have bond paths connecting the two.\nI must caution that as two or more atoms approach each other, their atomic basins change their shape. (Of course they do!) And so one must consider the possibility that atomic basins of \"exterior\" atoms move out of the way and lead to exposure of what was, in isolation, an interior atom.\n(PS: the atomic basins of peripheral atoms actually extend to infinity. Here, I have applied cutoffs so that one can actually plot the molecule in a finite region of space.]", "979" ], [ "To your first question, it depends on how you pose your Hamiltonian. In its usual form H=K+V, where V is the bonding among atoms and/or intermolecular forces, indeed the energies are inferred from spectroscopic studies, as <PERSON> pointed out. Identifying the peaks to the associated energy levels (and subsequently inferring other physical parameters of the molecule such as bond length, etc) was a major sub-discipline of Chemical Physics in the earlier years.\nSo relating to your second question, we first postulate that the world is expressed by (separable) vector spaces and interactions by (Hermitian) operators. Once we do this, we find ourselves only able to measure in the subspace of some eigenvector. The \"eigenvalue is energy\" part is more of a generalization of the experiments we have done and we now do. In the spectroscopy case, we find the energies first and then infer what the Hamiltonian must look like. So naturally, the Hamiltonians are found so that their eigenvalues match the energies we measure. (Btw, we rarely infer the actual form of the Hamiltonian from spectroscopic studies.", "28" ], [ "We usually tie the data to some simple models and do <PERSON> expansions of terms.)\n@Jan: It does not matter whether we are doing spectroscopy on a population of molecules/atoms or a single one (the latter is NOT a non-existing concept). That is because the energy levels of identical species are the same. As long as the energy levels (ie. the eigenvalues of the Hamiltonian) are the same, there will be dominant transitions which result in the peaks in our spectra.\nFurther, I would like to point out that it is possible to prepare a very localized wavepacket and do experiments on it, if that alleviate some of your concern about the reality of particle in a box.\nHydrogen atom, on the other hand, does not have much to do with particle in a box physically. It terms out that we like to assume separability in solving differential equations. And in solving the Hamiltonian between a single proton and a single electron, we did exactly that and one component of the solution has similarities with the solution of particle in a box. That's about it.\nA better example is quantum dots, where you can sometimes change their colors by manipulating their sizes, because size affects spacings between energy levels! Look it up! It was of much interest when it was first proposed and made. Not sure how it goes now.", "795" ] ]

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[ [ "Conducting Medical Research in Africa: Opportunities and Misconceptions · Global Voices\n<PERSON> in 2016 in Zambia with his permission\nMedical research conducted in Africa is often undercovered and ignored by the media, but it is a thriving field that highlights the continent's most pressing needs.\nThe reason why there is demand for locally conducted medical research is two-fold: Firstly, global health currently does not have the range of medicines and vaccines required to tackle the health issues specific to the African continent. Diseases such as AIDS, tuberculosis, and malaria have a greater detrimental impact on the poorest countries of Africa and a lack of investment in products targeting these diseases by pharmaceutical companies is a major problem.\nSecondly, research conducted by African scientists will serve to develop research capacities in Africa and an increased role for science and technology can only be beneficial to the continent's economic development.\nDr. <PERSON> is the director of the Central Laboratory at Centre for Infectious Disease Research in Zambia (CIDRZ). He grew up in Lusaka, Zambia in the 1990's just as the AIDS epidemic began to take a major toll on the national health. He left Zambia to pursue higher education in the United States in Louisiana, then Indiana. He conducted his own research on the HIV virus as a post-doctoral fellow at the University of Pennsylvania before deciding to go back home in order to make an impact on Zambian healthcare.\nGlobal Voices discussed both the future of medical research in Zambia and the things that the media gets wrong about such research in Africa with Dr. <PERSON>. (Disclaimer: Dr. <PERSON> is speaking in a personal capacity):\nGlobal Voices (GV): What is your research topic?\n<PERSON> RW: I'm doing a lot of implementation work currently, supporting the Zambian national ART programme with Laboratory testing. I am just starting a research programme in Molecular Diagnostics development for HIV, TB, and other pathogens of interest.\nGV: What do you see/think are the trending and hot topics in science in your country and Africa in general? How is it different from that in Western countries?\n<PERSON>: There is no basic R&D.", "926" ], [ "It's all implementation of solutions developed elsewhere. This has to change, otherwise we will always be receivers rather than makers. The received solutions are not usually ideal for our environment and making them work here correctly is sometimes impossible.\nGV: Where does the funding and support come from? Is it sufficient? How easy/difficult is it to recruit suitable scientists?\nRW: US and Europe. Different projects have different levels of funding. It is difficult to recruit people to come back or to move here, as funding and growth opportunities are better in other countries .\nGV: How are the research infrastructures? What are the obstacles in your routine research activity that you didn’t encounter before?\nRW: Basic infrastructure is not up to developed country standards and it costs a lot to get uninterrupted power, water, and Internet. Supplies are expensive and take months to be imported from other countries.\nGV: What are the public’s opinions towards science and scientists in Africa?\nRW: There is interest, but an extremely limited understanding of the scientific method. I would suggest critical thinking and the scientific method be taught in school to improve the situation.\n<PERSON>: In your opinion, what is the potential in scientific research in Africa, where it should focus on and how we can help its development?\nThere is amazing potential. I have seen incredible students of all ages. There is need for dedicated science education starting at all ages. Social sciences, computer sciences, big data, outer space exploration, healthcare (non-communicable and Infectious diseases), and traditional medicine efficacy will pay off big.\nGV: Could you describe the pros and cons of the life as a scientist in Africa vs Western countries based on your experience?\n<PERSON>: Mainly it is the speed of doing things and the access to expertise that are big challenges here. The system that journals have to put articles behind paywalls is also limiting the amount of information and the speed with which research can be done.", "693" ], [ "‘The Position of Women in Science Has Changed for the Better’, but ‘Is Still Far From Ideal’ · Global Voices\n<PERSON> with her permission\nAs part of a two-pronged series of interviews with medical researchers based in Africa (read the first part here), Global Voices reached out to Dr. <PERSON>, who is currently working in Zambia.\n<PERSON> grew up in Pune, India, where she obtained her bachelor's and masters degrees in zoology and molecular biology, respectively. She then moved to the US and obtained her PhD in microbiology from the University of Pennsylvania. She is currently a postdoctoral research fellow at Yale University with a Fogarty Global health research fellowship to conduct research in Lusaka, Zambia.\nAs a minority woman who has research experience in India, US, and now Zambia, <PERSON> brings her unique views on women in science, science and public opinions, and what science can bring to Africa.\nGlobal Voices (GV): What drew you towards a career in science?\n<PERSON> (SI): I grew up in India and every year the monsoon season would be followed by an increase in the incidence of mosquito-borne diseases such as malaria, dengue and chikungunya. As a child, I observed how interventions like the distribution of mosquito bed nets and the introduction of fish larvae into standing water puddles to eat mosquito larvae helped with vector control and reduced disease incidence. I was impressed with how public health interventions using existing technologies can have a massive impact on human health. After the completion of my master's degree in molecular biology, I worked on a project to identify a novel drug target for Mycobacterium tuberculosis at AstraZeneca, India. My internship at the company taught me that multidisciplinary team efforts from basic laboratory researchers to public health workers are necessary to address critical global health concerns in a sustainable manner. I had the opportunity to spend a year in Lusaka, Zambia from 2008-2009 and I noticed the direct and indirect impact of HIV/AIDS that cut across all strata of society. This galvanized me to be part of the improvement of health care in resource-limited countries by combining basic research and public health skills. While I Iived in Lusaka, I volunteered at an NGO that provided peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and milk to the children that visited the clinic with their parents to obtain [antiretroviral therapy]. These meals provided both nutrition and a positive experience for the children attending the clinic, helping retain them in care. This experience drove home how diverse the range of helpful interventions can be, each with their own benefit and scope. I knew then that I wanted to pursue a career in infectious diseases and its translation into global health research.", "820" ], [ "Understanding and following the scientific method has provided a satisfying way of answering questions to indulge my curiosity in a way that is rigorous and well-defined.\nGV: In your opinion, what can medical research bring to countries where the needs for primary healthcare are more pressing?\nSI: Research can help build resources in less fortunate countries. This includes the introduction of technology and instrumentation, training and knowledge-building among local researchers, the generation of opportunities for employment and education (even through exchange programs). The development of research capacity can foster global partnerships and collaborations and result in the building of an organization's reputation. Outcomes with a more direct benefit include therapeutic (vaccines and drugs), public health interventions (mosquito bed nets, affordable water filters, assessment of gender-based violence) and income generating (generic drugs for instance).\nGV: Until recently, scientific research has been perceived as a man's world. Do you think that this false perception has changed and do you think women scientists are now more recognized for their contribution?\n<PERSON>: I think that the position of women in science has changed for the better in recent years. However, their place in a scientific society is still far from ideal. Even in developed countries, tenured women scientists are not paid salaries comparable to their male counterparts. They are more frequently overlooked for promotions and administrative positions. This situation is even worse in the developing world, where women's rights and the idea of equality are still a new/foreign concept. Women with strong, assertive and demanding personalities earn unflattering reputations, which could hurt their chances of making tenure, collaborations and attracting research students. Men with these same qualities are, however, revered and respected. Growing up in the developing world, I experienced women being required to toe their male supervisor's line (even though they were far more accomplished/brighter), discriminated against because they were female and subject to harassment from male professors/supervisors. In general, it felt like an uphill battle to be a woman scientist and these struggles had nothing to do with what should be gender neutral issues like funding and publications. In the US, I definitely felt more secure voicing my opinion, defending my research and applying for awards.", "693" ], [ "Tunisia: Watching Arab Media on HIV/AIDS · Global Voices\n<PERSON> is a Tunisian doctor, blogger and activist, currently based in the United States, who is dedicated to fighting the spread of HIV/AIDS in the Middle East and North Africa. In September 2008 he started a blog called HIV in the Arab World [Ar], which monitors Arab media coverage of HIV/AIDS.\nA wide range of subjects are covered in the blog, such as an awareness-raising campaign [Ar] in Tunisia, reasons for the spread of AIDS in Iraq [Ar], and a Saudi religious scholar's opinion [Ar] on the permissibility of marrying a person with HIV/AIDS.\nIn this post, <PERSON> tells Global Voices Online about his work, and how it all began.\nAIDS Awareness Ribbon, by <PERSON> (used under Creative Commons License)\nWhat prompted your interest in working in the field of HIV/AIDS?\nA family member died of HIV/AIDS when I was 11. This was in the 80s and at that time there was nothing we can do. This event shaped my life and made HIV/AIDS become part of the issues that are dear to me. During my medical school, I joined the Tunisian Association Against AIDS (Association Tunisienne de Lutte Contre le Sida) and never left the HIV field ever since. I worked in Tunisia, Lebanon and Sudan so far and I’m looking forward to help my colleagues and friends in more countries.\nWhat are the greatest challenges for people living with HIV in the Arab world?\nStigma and discrimination is definitely on the top of the list. Stigma is partially due in my opinion to the fear-creating approach that our governments and activists adopted as a main prevention message. Fear is often paired with ignorance and stigma is a consequence of this mix. Stigma makes it more difficult to convince people to get tested, and hence to get treated. It also contributes in denying basic rights to those who are infected and does not allow them to have security regarding their future (work, family…).\nWhen did you start the HIV in the Arab World blog, and who are you aiming at?\nI believe in the power of media in changing behaviours and bringing awareness. For many years Arab media has been neglecting the issue of HIV/AIDS and during the last years I observed some changes in the way they framed HIV/AIDS. I created this to better follow the way Arab media reports about AIDS and to offer to those interested a webpage that collects all the articles that talk about this epidemic in the MENA [Middle East and North Africa] region.", "926" ], [ "It is also a way for me to keep connected with the MENA HIV news.\nYou also have a Facebook group associated with the HIV in the Arab World blog – who is it for?\nI left the region in 2007 and moved to the United States where I work for the department of Global Health at the University of Washington. This move made it difficult for me to keep in touch with my friends and colleagues from the region. I created this Facebook group to reconnect with my friends and to offer an opportunity for activists and HIV/AIDS professionals to meet and discuss about the issues that are important to them. It is a primarily a networking tool and also a forum where news and emerging issues are discussed. The group is open only to those who are working in the field and has already more than 42 members from all over the Arab world.\nHow many HIV-positive people are there in Tunisia? Can you describe the work of the Tunisian Association Against AIDS [fr]?\nTunisia’s HIV epidemic is relatively small (3000 estimated cases/10,000,000 inhabitants). We estimate the prevalence to be one of the lowest in the world. This is due to male circumcision, a good healthcare system, conservative sexual behaviours and the government/civil society’s work. There is however a lot that needs to be done in order to prevent the disease from spreading larger. These actions include a need to target vulnerable groups with better designed prevention interventions and more work on the policy and epidemiology level.\nI joined the Tunisian HIV association in 1997. This NGO is the largest and one of the most popular ones in Tunisia. We work in the areas of HIV prevention, care and support, and advocacy. We cover the Tunisian territory with more than 5 local offices and we participate in many international activities and networks that represent to us a source of funding and partnerships.", "803" ], [ "Malawi: The good, the bad and the hopeful in health care · Global Voices\nIn this post we highlight some of what Malawian bloggers are writing about the country's health care issues. We look at bloggers describing developments in eye care, reflecting on midwifery, expressing shock over negligence in hospitals and government waste, and we end with rare good news about the HIV/AIDS epidemic.\nDr. <PERSON> examines Malawian kids. Photo: Vision2020 IAPB\nWe start with Dr. <PERSON>, an eye care specialist, university professor and researcher. Dr. <PERSON> informs that The University of Malawi's College of Medicine has recently introduced a graduate training program in Ophthalmology. The number of ophthalmologists in the country has also increased, with three new ophthalmologists trained within the last two years. One of them is Dr. <PERSON> himself. The new Minister of Health, who is also a new member of parliament, Dr. <PERSON>, is himself an ophthalmologist, and for many years was the only one in the whole of Malawi.\nThe new developments in the training program and increase in specialists are a result of a program known as Vision 2020 Right to Sight, which Malawi has been pursuing for a number of years now. Dr.", "830" ], [ "<PERSON> writes:\nMalawi has been active in VISION 2020 activities since 2000, and has successfully organised VISION2020 workshops for Malawi, Zambia and Zimbabwe.\nMalawi completed the VISION 2020 five year Eye care plan in 2004, and progress has been made towards achieving goals to eliminating avoidable blindness by the year 2020 in Malawi.\nBased on the 3 pillars of VISION2020, in terms of disease control, Childhood blindness was set as one of the major priorities and a Paediatric Ophthalmology unit was planned to be developed in Blantyre.\nAnother Malawian blogger also blogging about health care issues is <PERSON>, a Malawian nurse currently studying in Norway. <PERSON>, as she addresses herself, started blogging in March this year after arriving in Norway. Her 15 years as a midwife-nurse, she writes, have taught her about the simple, free things that matter to women whether in Malawi or in Norway:\nAs an experienced para 3, i really missed the support of a midwife who could greet me and put herself in my shoes during antenatal, labour and postnatal periods. Having travelled miles away from my home and live in this scandinavian country, i have really appriciated that there are some things that cost nothing but are important for all midwives to do in the whole world. A smile, greetings, giving of comprehensive information, explaining procedures, respect, empathy, sympathy.With these little non costly commodities, our hospitals will be wonderful places for women.\nMalawian Nurse-Midwife, <PERSON>\nBut health care in Malawi also presents difficult problems especially to ordinary Malawians who cannot afford expensive private doctors. <PERSON> writes about a distant relation of his who recently hanged himself to escape deep financial problems he was ensnared in. According to <PERSON>, the man was still alive when people found him. They quickly took him to the hospital, where they found nurses and other medical personnel having their dinner.\nThey reporterdly went on with their business of eating the evening meal as <PERSON> lay in poor condition. By the time the medical staff had finished enjoying dinner and started to check on <PERSON>, he was no more.\nSadly, <PERSON> writes, such stories of negligence are not uncommon in Malawian hospitals, as per an incident he personally witnessed.\nOn one occasion I personally saw a mother holding a very ill young son rush into the hall of the referall hospital in Blantyre, QECH, to alert medics about the need for a trolley or a wheel-chair. Nobody seemed to care and the woman ended up handling the trolley herself…she was later assisted by a minibus conductor whose vehicle had kindly agreed to make a diversion to the hospital!\nAnother blogger, <PERSON>, expresses his frustration with a Government plan to study the feasibility of turning an old ship on Lake Malawi, the MV Chancy Maples, into a mobile hospital. According to <PERSON>, the idea has been proposed by some Scottish donors, who want the Malawi government to pay for the study at a cost of MK50,000,000 (US$357,143).\nAs much as I have respect for the Ministry officials K50 million can do a lot. Train at least 10 doctors, 200 medical assistance and 100 Nurses. Or better still can equip Lifuwu Hospital with drugs for five months.\nHow we lay our priorities should reflect the poverty and needs of Malawians.", "830" ], [ "Africa: Will Local Content Policies Help Avert the Oil Curse? · Global Voices\nThis post is part of our special coverage International Relations & Security.\nIn recent years, major reserves of oil have been discovered at various locations across Africa. If this ‘black gold’ represents an opportunity for economic growth, the fear that the windfall may not benefit the local populations – and maybe even become a curse – is shared by Sub-Saharan African citizens and experts alike.\nIn 2009, Modern Ghana’s <PERSON> suggested a possible solution:\nIt is common practice for oil and gas producing countries to negotiate local content agreements with interested IOCs [International Oil Companies] in an attempt to secure for the country a higher share of the value from oil and gas projects. This trend has surfaced as a result of the realization of the poor economic performance of many resource rich countries despite their vast wealth.\nTullow oil camp, Uganda. Image by Conservation Concepts on Flickr (CC BY 2.0).\nTaking the example of Ghana, he explains:\nAs part of measures being undertaken to put in place the framework for Ghana's oil and gas production, a Bill entitled the Ghana Petroleum Regulatory Authority (GPRA) Bill was released in October 2008. (…) Sections 100 to 105 inclusive of the Bill deal with the promotion of local content, specifically, the involvement of the state oil company, provision of goods and services by local entrepreneurs, as well as the employment and training of citizens of Ghana.\nThe adoption of the local content policy framework in Ghana followed in 2010, however it is still pending parliamentary endorsement. The latter is now more urgent than ever, as finding employment is a preoccupation for an increasing number of Ghanaian citizens.\nCommenting on an article entitled ‘Youth Angry-Over Elusive Jobs In Oil Industry‘, <PERSON> writes:\nOil brings in huge amounts of money, of course, and along with that come expectations of many, well-paid jobs. The problem is that the industry – at least as it exists in Ghana now – doesn’t generate much work. (…) We’ll have to wait for details on how the government intends to increase local content and participation, which is easier said than done.", "803" ], [ "Training, education, quotas, regulation, penalties, taxation, incentives – the government has multiple options for addressing the question.\nIn Uganda, the same move towards the adoption of a local content policy is being made, as explained on the In2EastAfrica website:\nUganda wants a strong local content in the nascent oil and gas industry for its citizens to gain skilled manpower and a competitive supply edge. This is in an attempt to ensure revenues trickles down, averting the resource curse.\nIndeed, avoiding the oil curse is important for Uganda, particularly if it helps to prevent the emergence of other <PERSON> like characters. Petroleum was, after all, discovered in the north-west, near the border with the Democratic Republic of the Congo, the epicenter of the 30 year long conflict led by the Lord's Resistance Army chief. A local content policy would hopefully create employment for local populations and distract them from the path of war.\nIn Kenya case, where oil was found earlier this year, Local Development Network of Africa asks on Twitter:\n@ledna: How far have discussion on #Ghana “local content” for the oil and gas sector gone? #Kenya (new found oil) could learn from that\n<PERSON>, professor of economics at the University of Freiburg, Germany, adds another perspective on the World Bank blog:\nThe biggest -but most important- challenge is to build and maintain good institutions. (…) transparency will be the most powerful lever for accountability. If Kenyans know exactly how much oil is being produced, how much royalties oil companies pay this would already be a major step in the right direction. (…) Kenya’s strong civil society and creative industries, especially in ICT, can play a strong role in monitoring the oil revenue flows and proposing solutions on how to spend the money well. Then the resource curse can be turned into a blessing.\nThis post and its translations to Spanish, Arabic and French were commissioned by International Security Network (ISN) as part of a partnership to seek out citizen voices on international relations and security issues worldwide. This post was first published on the ISN blog, see similar stories here.", "328" ], [ "Zambia: We need Enlightenment to end this instanity · Global Voices\nZambian blogosphere continues to grow and bring diverse voices and opinions online. <PERSON> writes about education in Zambia in his post, “Educated but poor”:\nA majority of youth in Africa today have completed more years of schooling than their parents did but have limited opportunities in employment and remain poor, according to the The World Youth Report 2007 .\nHe also writes about the Open Thread – NCC Allowances :\nSome interesting comments / reports on the National Constitution Conference (NCC) allowances in the media this week. The Post on saturday reported the extent of the proposed allowances: The NCC delegates are entitled to a sitting allowance of K500,000 persitting and subsistence allowance of K650,000 per day. They are also entitled to transport allowance of K100,000 per day and transport refund of K300,000 for those who reside outside Lusaka.\nThe National Constitutional Conference (NCC) was held to prepare for a new Zambian constitution.\nIssues Over Matters discusses the state of Zambian economy and politics:\nWhatever happened to that age-old gem of wisdom that we always spat out when we realised someone was about to take advantage of us as youngsters in playgrounds in Kitwe: takuli kuliilana amasuku pamutwe guys in Bemba.\nIn the Zambian society today, <PERSON> unfortunately has become part of the national culture, and if anybody at any level for that matter, manages to eat fruit from someone else’s head, he assumes heroic status and the victim is deemed ukupwalala or sleepy.\nA good example is the way former President <PERSON> who is appearing in court for various offences allegedly committed while in office, is today seen as a victim rather than what he should be treated, as in The people Vs Chiluba.\nPoliticians in government, politicians outside government, senior civil servants, junior civil servants, private and parastatal company chief executives, junior employees, NGO leaders and just about everybody, including tuntemba owners, are fleecing and want to fleece everyone else.In short, crime in general and corruption in particular, is endemic in the nation. The dominant criminal element in society has impoverished everyone else to a point where being “clean” is considered abnormal.\nWhen I was a student just over two decades ago, we used to band about statistics in Kalingalinga and M’tendere taverns that 95 percent of the nation’s wealth was in the hands of five percent of the population which was then associated with UNIP.\nTwo decades later and 17 years of the MMD in power, I am sure the statistics have shifted: 99 percent of the wealth is in the hands of only one percent of the population.\nThe recent contest for the ANC presidency between the South African president <PERSON> and <PERSON> drew a global attention. Zambian blogger, <PERSON>, writes about the contest in a post titled THABO BRUISING A LESSON FOR AFRICA.", "424" ], [ "He writes:\nThe election of <PERSON> as ANC leader is a good sign for Africa, that democracy can prevail even in ruling parties across the continent used to leaders who grow roots in the seats of power. Not that <PERSON> is the best man for the eventual job of South African president, but <PERSON> is to blame.\nICT Journalist looks at the state of ICT infrastructure and policies in Africa in the context of the Africa Telecommunications Day:\nThe lack of main energy supply in many rural and remote areas is a major obstacle to deploying telecommunication infrastructure.\nWhen we look at the theme for the Africa Telecommunications Day whose theme this year is “Applying emerging technologies to empower rural communities towards attainment of Millennium Development Goals (MDGs),” we see the digital divide between rural and urban area.\nTo bridge the rural digital divide there is need to strengthen human and institutional capacities to harness information and knowledge more effectively. Africa needs to address the following key issues to reduce the digital divide that exists.\nWhen we look at content package on the Internet, it is all in Africa’s foreign languages which are either in English, French, Portuguese, Spanish or Japanese to name but a few. There is need for African communities to locally adapt content and contextualise it. Also there is need for the communities to share content that will build on exiting systems to address diversity.\nRural dwellers however will also need capacity building on the importance of ICTs and how they can benefit from them. It is also important for the rural communities to partner and participate in the World Summit on information Society (WSIS) process.\nIt is also time for the rural communities to have a realistic approach to technologies and work on the high cost and financial sustainability.", "409" ], [ "People with disabilities left stranded during national lockdown in Uganda · Global Voices\nUgandan national wheelchair team practices on the court on October 24, 2013, Uganda. Photo via DfID on Flickr CC BY 2.0.\nNearly a month after Uganda enforced a national lockdown and curfew, 25-year-old <PERSON>, who is deaf and blind, was shot by a team of Local Defence Units in Agago District, in the northern region.\nOn April 30, during a strict curfew due to the coronavirus, the LDU officers tried to speak to <PERSON> as he was walking. But <PERSON> could not see or hear them and continued walking when the officers shot him in the leg. <PERSON> had to amputate his leg and now endures the burden of another layer of disability that could have been prevented.\nBut <PERSON> who has hearing and speech impairments did not. The 25-year-old resident of Mugila West Village in Agago District, was shot 5 times in the leg, by LDU personnel enforcing the 7pm to 6.30am curfew. https://t.co/4NtjWnndLz pic.twitter.com/8umM4H00Xy\n— Kweeta (@KweetaUganda) May 11, 2020\n<PERSON>'s injury and additional disability are directly linked to the government's disregard for people with disabilities in the execution of its national lockdown plan. About 16.5 percent of Ugandans are people with disabilities (PWDs).\nIt took substantial advocacy and lobbying around the shooting of <PERSON> to have adequate PWD representation on the government’s national COVID-19 taskforce through its risk communication committee.\nThe needs of marginalized people, especially those of persons with disabilities were conspicuously absent in President <PERSON>’s COVID-19 directives.\n<PERSON>, who works for the National Union of Women with Disabilities of Uganda, told Global Voices:\nOne of our first interventions was for me to engage with our line ministry and to say that these directives are not inclusive of the special needs of persons with disabilities. We instantly began to get news of how the directives were impacting them [PWDs] negatively.", "328" ], [ "They had no information on what COVID is, how it is spread, who is COVID affecting, what the directives are about. People did not know about curfew. That is how the boy in the north gets shot. That is how the girl in the north gets beaten by LDUs.\n<PERSON> and her colleagues’ advocacy paid off.\nShe joined the task force at its ninth meeting and promptly began a project to translate pandemic-related information into sign language. Sign language interpretation was incorporated into all official televised addresses on COVID-19.\nWhile commendable, this progress was a little too late for some PWDs.\n<PERSON> travels around in a wooden wheelchair in Arua District, Uganda, via COMBRID-Friends of Disability Facebook page, used with permission.\nDilemma\nThe ban on private and public transportation was essential to prevent the spread of COVID-19, but the decision was not inclusive of PWDs, excluding those with desperate needs for health care or food supplies.\nWhile non-disabled people could easily walk to buy groceries, many people with disabilities made the difficult decision to drive a car or ride on a boda-boda or motorcycle taxi, out of necessity, at great risk to their personal safety.\n<PERSON>, a visually impaired teacher and nongovernmental worker in the northwestern district of Arua, was harassed by soldiers for allegedly flouting social distancing measures while walking with his personal assistant.\n<PERSON>, a woman with a physical disability in Kampala, the capital, was arrested and detained twice while driving to buy groceries. She told Global Voices:\nThe first time I was held at a roadblock for about 30 minutes. The second time, I was taken to Kabalagala police station. The District Police Commander expressed his remorse for how I was treated and after about an hour, I was escorted to buy my groceries.\nThe struggles of some PWDs exist at the intersection of class, gender, HIV/AIDS status and multiple disabilities or other power differentials, increasing their vulnerabilities.\nThe transport ban exposed some women with disabilities to sexual violence who could not escape their attackers. “Right now I have about five cases of women with disabilities who were raped because of this COVID lockdown,” <PERSON> told Global Voices.\nPeople with albinism need unfettered mobility to access skin protection creams, skin cancer surgery and post-surgery care, said <PERSON>, chief executive officer of Women and Children with Albinism in Uganda.", "803" ], [ "South Africa: Storm Brewing Between Government, Striking Doctors & Unions · Global Voices\nIn the last few months there has been a storm brewing between different parties here in South Africa related to the public health care system. Doctors, unions and government are at odds without being able to come to a compromise. There have been accusations made by all sides and doctors have started striking so their demands can be met.\nAt the heart of the matter is a grievance by public sector doctors that they are paid as much as 50% less then other public sector employee's at a similar levels. Additional issues include long shifts, conditions at hospitals and doctor to patient ratios. The doctors have set up a facebook group for supporters where you can find a full history of the events up to now as well as grievances.\nAccording to the facebook group, they also feel they are not being sufficiently represented by unions such as the South African Medical Association (SAMA) and SAMA have come to an agreement with government without the support of their members.\nSAMA states\nWe would like to reassure our members of SAMA’s commitment to advancing the interests of members, by negotiating for an OSD that reflects the aspirations and needs of our members. It is on this basis that we have attempted to keep members continuously and accurately updated on the employer’s proposal. Communicating the employer’s proposals is however, not an indication that SAMA accepts such proposals. Pronouncements by the doctor-grouping that SAMA has reached an agreement with the Department of Health are disingenuous, blatant untruths, and disrespectful to all parties involved in the OSD-negotiations.\nWhile traditional media has reported on the hardline stance taken by the ANC on the striking doctors.\nThe African National Congress and Cosatu in KwaZulu-Natal have released a press release condemning doctors for their “unprofessional” strike action in the province.\nIn a strongly worded statement, the alliance partners suggested doctors were being unreasonable and had thwarted attempts by National Minister of Health Dr <PERSON> and the provincial MEC, Dr <PERSON>, to reach an agreement.\nThey accused doctors of refusing to stick with the process and channels available to them.\nThe provincial department of health in Kwa-Zulu Natal have also fired over 200 doctors for not appearing at work after an interdict was granted against them by the courts:\nMore than 200 doctors have been fired for failing to report to work in different hospitals in KwaZulu-Natal, SABC radio news reported on Monday evening.\nThe provincial health department said it had issued 226 letters of dismissal to health care professionals so far.\nSome of the perspectives from the blogosphere\n<PERSON> writes\nOne thing that I learnt while sitting in that ward was the impact the doctor’s strike is doing to these poor patients. According to this lady, it took her more than 10 hours to receive attention on arriving at the hospital as there were not doctors available and the nurses are not authorized to administer any medication before the patient is admitted and seen by a doctor. Not even pain killers and this woman was lying there all that time in pain.\nAn anonymous doctor at moralfibe writes\nI had mixed feelings about striking and abandoning our patients in what is seen by the general public as just a dispute over salaries.", "289" ], [ "The protest action is in fact a culmination of years of abuse that medical professionals have endured at the hands of the government.\nLet’s start with working conditions. The hospitals are over-capacity, and the doctors are overworked. In my ward, we officially have place for 65 patients. We had more than 85 for the best part of last week. Doctors work 30 hour shifts when they do overtime, working a minimum of 60 hours a week in my hospital, but it’s not like this everywhere. Usually it’s worse. Although, this certainly is an improvement since 2002 when as an intern, I worked 100 hours a week and 30 hour shifts every third day. We are expected to do procedures with needles potentially putting ourselves and others at risk of contracting HIV by needlestick injuries, this even after having been awake and on our feet for 24 hours and more.\nFurther he/she writes\nTo do the job I do in the hospital I have three degrees in the medical field, but earn less than a gym personal trainer. If you compare my job requirements and qualification to any other professional in the government sector, I am being underpaid by at least 50%. In private practice I would be earning at least 300% of my current salary.\nand he/she also believes the government is using sneaky tactics to remove support for the strike action\nWhen the Minister held that press conference on Wednesday, it was a sneaky political move. When has any employer presented a wage offer to the public without first taking it the bargaining chamber?", "119" ] ]

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[ [ "Oldboy\nLook, these Asian based films I tend to find odd and they are always very over the top violent and dramatic but I did find Oldboy to be a good movie by the end of it. The third act elevated it for sure because of the plot twists. Also the hallway scene from daredevil must have drawn inspiration from the hallway scene in this movie and I wish there was more of that type of action in this movie. I would love to see <PERSON> take out whole rooms of people again and again throughout this movie.\n7.5/10", "995" ], [ "Boss <PERSON>\nHow much does any one person want to see <PERSON> die over and over again in a time loop movie? Well on the surface I'm completely game for that but director <PERSON> lumbers the picture with an ever present voice-over narration which labours the movie somewhat. I was beginning to question if actual dialogue between characters in the scene would actually happen.", "647" ], [ "Not that it needed to, this one didn't need to be a talky, the dialogue is a bit naff and it doesn't help that <PERSON> and <PERSON> are in complete paycheck mode either. <PERSON> isn't a bad presence though, there is something likeable about him, like the TV Movie action hero getting a chance to level up. This is completely B-Grade quality though, not without its pleasures for sure but not one that will live long in the memory either.", "698" ], [ "Ambulance\nWhen you say you want to see more practical effects in movies but then the one guy who does it is an ADHD teenager trapped in a old guys body. Like if the camera stays still for a second you wonder if <PERSON> didn't suffer some sort of cardiac arrest in the those moments (well at least there would be an...oh fuck off). Seriously though the over exuberance in <PERSON>'s camera work is nauseating. What the hell is the point of all this swooping and twirling, even in scenes were they are just talking? Add in the shitty editing and sometimes you don't know where they hell you are in a scene. I genuinely feel like if the camera just stopped for while the film might actually be watchable.", "475" ], [ "Having said that I did find some things to enjoy, or at least find semi interesting. Partly the surgery sequence directed over video link. It was reasonably tense if a little dumb (a little dumb is like the base line for any <PERSON> film). I wish I could enjoy this shit really. It makes a think attempt at emotional resonance but there is nothing really to go on to make any of the emotional later scenes feel anything but hollow. Well consider me shocked.", "645" ], [ "Scream\nI’m slacking off in my posting reviews but in anticipation of Scream (2022) I’m revisiting a series that is like an old friend to me. This film was something that I was dead centered in the middle of the demographic. I was a <PERSON> horror dork. I was dying to see it and when it didn’t get one to my town’s 5 theaters til January I went and saw it with my best friend and little brother and a couple more times by myself.", "444" ], [ "The movie was mind blowing; scary, an intriguing whodunnit, funny and meta af. It was like nothing I’ve ever seen. Sure we might get a small mention of “I’ve seen enough horror movies to know anybody wearing a mask is it up to any good line being used in Friday the 13th VI Jason Lives for example but never had I heard characters in a horror movie discus the rules of horror movies lol\nIt’s such a time capsule and really brings me back to being a teenager who was jealous of the previous generation (primarily my aunt, uncle’s and grandmother) who enjoyed Halloween in the theater but thinking about how the slasher revival was OUR TIME! I absolutely love the nod of playing Halloween on the tv 📺 in the party finale it works so perfect and the “ Behind you <PERSON> gets a laugh out of me 25 years later”. Also huge nods to having a cover of Don’t Fear The Reaper and a character with the last name of <PERSON> lol Though don’t think too hard how scream 2 could be playing on tv in h20 when it’s Halloween (1978) was featured on tv in Scream (1996) ‘a climax... 🤯🧠🤷🏽\nRevisit was fun on to part 2\nScream Uuuuuuhhhh I see it coming up next", "995" ], [ "Master\nThis was one of those movies that was supposed to come last year but got delayed like most other ones. It was weird not getting a movie starring <PERSON> in 2020 since here that's like not getting an MCU movie..oh wait. Anyway my expectations were moderate and I was pleasantly surprised.\nThis is probably <PERSON>'s best movie I've seen at least in terms of his performance, instead if his usual ultra cool guy persona he is way more vulnerable and empathetic than usual while still carrying his usual coolness which I really dug.", "217" ], [ "<PERSON> is really great as the villain and has such a calm yet scary presence. This movie is also like...surprisingly depressing? It becomes so dark at points which I did not expect but it was pretty cool I guess. The songs really slap as well though they released them before the movie came out and they played literally everywhere which was annoying as shit but they're still really good. It's not perfect obviously, it could have been shorter and it's kind of a mess, but I can easily look past those issues and just go along with this fun ride.", "965" ], [ "The End We Start From\n9:40 pm\nWent in knowing nothing and that was fun. Quite enjoyed this. Very interesting concept. Great performances. <PERSON> best performance I’ve seen so far. The whole esthetic of this movie is just sad. There’s barely any scenes where the film focuses on how upsetting it is and that’s what makes it disturbing. They make off hand comments and lighthearted jokes about how their families are probably dead and they do it like it’s nothing.", "965" ], [ "They carry their babies through the worst situations and environments. I don’t like kids and it was even upsetting for me. I definitely don’t feel like this movie was full of itself. Also a well shot movie. It looks great. The ending is great too and is gonna have me thinking about the subtext of the film. I’d recommend seeing this before it leaves theaters fast as hell. Don’t know why the release for this is so bad.", "965" ], [ "The Apple\nThis first time I saw this was at an after hours movie club we had at one of the theaters I worked at. One of the bartenders there ran a local psychotronic movie group and had a very esoteric knowledge of cult movies. He always raved about this one and was so excited to show it for movie night (he also brought barbeque from the other bar he worked at).", "900" ], [ "It was a huge hit.\nThe costumes and set design in this is are astounding. The relentless pummeling ridiculous music numbers somehow doesn't get overbearing because each one is so absurd in its own way. The wild dances help too. My only minor issue with this is the abrupt, left turn ending that is so overt and ludicrous it somehow jars you from what is already a ludicrous movie.\nIn a just world this would be getting the same level of fandom as something like Rocky Horror.", "596" ], [ "Oppenheimer\nFinally had a chance to watch this in Imax.\nI was surprised how popular this film still is, the theatre was quite packed for a random wednesday.\nI thoroughly enjoyed it, it might be my third favourite <PERSON> movie. I loved the first two hours.", "410" ], [ "Everything leading up to the trinity test flowed so well, the pacing was immaculate. And then you get what you came for, the explosion, which thanks to the great build up was so worth it. <PERSON> pushes what you can achieve in cinema, which not a lot of filmmakers get the chance to do.\nIt's excellent filmmaking and <PERSON> easily keeps being one of the few minds in cinema that keeps pushing the medium.", "529" ] ]

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[ [ "Algorithm for maximizing correspondence between 2 sets\nI am trying to figure out how to solve the following problem: I have 2 sets of objects, set A and set B. I have a metric that calculates how closely a given object from set A corresponds to an object from set B. I'd like to maximize the overall correspondence of the entire set.\nWhat I tried first was a sort of greedy algorithm, where I went through each object in set A and calculated that object's correspondence with each object remaining in set B. I then replaced the object in set B that had the highest correspondence with the object in set A. For the next object in set A, I did the same thing, leaving out the objects in set B that already had a correspondence.\nThe problem with this approach is that it works very well for the first part of the sets, but as I near the end, there are fewer objects in set B to match with, so objects from set A tend to have worse correspondence with those objects.\nI think that it might be better to do a full calculation of the correspondence of each item in Set A to each item in Set B, and from there choose each item from set A that has the highest correspondence of the next item in set B.\nHowever, I'm left wondering if you could have a situation where, for example, object 1 from set A has, let's say an 95% correspondence to object 6 in set B, but it's next best correspondence is only 50% with object 14 in set B.", "103" ], [ "Meanwhile, object 2 from set A has a correspondence of 97% to object 6 from set B, but it has a 96% correspondence to object 28 in set B. In my mind, I think it would be better for object 1 from set A to be matched with object 6 from set B (95% correspondence) and object 2 from set A to be matched with object 28 (96% correspondence) in set B instead of matching object 2 in set A to object 6 in set B and object 1 in set A to match object 14 in set B.\nIs there a name for such an algorithm? I feel like it's related to the Knapsack Problem, but is not exactly the same. There will always be the same number of objects in set A and set B. I suppose it's possible that there will be more than 1 set of mappings that are \"most optimal\". In that case, I don't care which one is chosen.\nIn my application there will be between a few hundred to 10 or 20 thousand objects in each set. The average will probably be around 5,000 or so.", "103" ], [ "What is the name of this logistic variant of TSP?\nI have a logistic problem that can be seen as a variant of $\\text{TSP}$. It is so natural, I'm sure it has been studied in Operations research or something similar. Here's one way of looking at the problem.\nI have $P$ warehouses on the Cartesian plane. There's a path from a warehouse to every other warehouse and the distance metric used is the Euclidean distance. In addition, there are $n$ different items. Each item $1 \\leq i \\leq n$ can be present in any number of warehouses. We have a collector and we are given a starting point $s$ for it, say the origin $(0,0)$. The collector is given an order, so a list of items. Here, we can assume that the list only contains distinct items and only one of each. We must determine the shortest tour starting at $s$ visiting some number of warehouses so that the we pick up every item on the order.\nHere's a visualization of a randomly generated instance with $P = 35$. Warehouses are represented with circles.", "180" ], [ "Red ones contain item $1$, blue ones item $2$ and green ones item $3$. Given some starting point $s$ and the order ($1,2,3$), we must pick one red, one blue and one green warehouse so the order can be completed. By accident, there are no multi-colored warehouses in this example so they all contain exactly one item. This particular instance is a case of set-TSP.\nI can show that the problem is indeed $\\mathcal{NP}$-hard. Consider an instance where each item $i$ is located in a different warehouse $P_i$. The order is such that it contains every item. Now we must visit every warehouse $P_i$ and find the shortest tour doing so. This is equivalent of solving an instance of $\\text{TSP}$.\nBeing so obviously useful at least in the context of logistic, routing and planning, I'm sure this has been studied before. I have two questions:\n1. What is the name of the problem?\n2. How well can one hope to approximate the problem (assuming $\\mathcal{P} \\neq \\mathcal{NP}$)?\nI'm quite happy with the name and/or reference(s) to the problem. Maybe the answer to the second point follows easily or I can find out that myself.", "835" ], [ "Turning generative recursion results (leaves of a tree) into connected components (where each neighbour differs by one element)\nI'm generating valid timetables for my uni with a simple generative recursion algorithm like this (disregarding handling of course-specific labs and tutorials)\ndef generate(current_timetable, unallocated_courses):\nif conflicts(current_timetable):\nreturn\nif not unallocated_courses:\nresults.add(current_timetable)\nreturn\ncourse = first(unallocated_courses)\nfor section in course:\nnew_timetable = copy(current_timetable) + section\ngenerate(new_timetable, rest(unallocated_courses))\n(Storing results as a flat list for now)\nProbably room for memoization in there, but that part of the program is fast enough already.\nNow, since this generates too many timetables to easily compare, I decided to group them into 'families', which are connected undirected graphs of timetables in which you can navigate between any two nodes by swapping one section at a time for another. As a result, I get around ~10 very differently shaped timetables that I can subjectively compare.\nMy naive O(n^2) approach was to take every single combination of 2 nodes, build an adjacency list based on the delta between each pair, and then find connected components with BFS.\nIf I store results in a tree (i.e. non-leaves are incomplete timetables, root is empty, each child has 1 more course allocated than its parents, and the leaves are the completed timetables), is there any insight about this structure that could make finding connected components faster?\nI realize that immediate siblings would be connected in the final graph, since their only difference is which section (of the course that their parents is missing) was picked, but there can also be leaves that are identical except for e.g.", "839" ], [ "their grandparents, and those are the ones that I can't seem to detect without the O(n^2) approach.\nTo clarify: Each course has a bunch of sections. At each level of the tree, a certain course is considered, and for each section in that course, a subproblem is created.\nFor example:\nAt level 1, different sections of course A are considered. At level 2, different sections of course B are considered.\nHere's sample output with 2 families (sorry about the current interface): https://dmitry.lol/public/timetablor/", "743" ], [ "How to build a set of closed chains with a sequence of different vertices?\nI have a set of many bi-directional links like A-B, A-C, B-C, A-D, C-D, D-E, etc.\nI need to find a set of many closed chains with a sequence of different vertices (vertex-disjoint cycles). It would be better if I can find them all.\nHow I solve the problem right now:\n1. I build a directed graph by these links.\n2. I take one of the vertices and then go to the others by edges, building walks.\n3. I take the last walks' vertices one by one and then go to the others vertices except those that have already passed, continue building walks.\n4. Repeat step 3 for each walk until I reach the start vertex. 4a.", "835" ], [ "If other vertices are over and I could not build a closed chain, I delete the walk.\nI apologize for my ignorance of graph theory. Perhaps I am reinventing the wheel? Perhaps there is already a solution to this issue? Please tell me.\nAdditional information:\n* The set of links is about 10,000.\n* The directed graph may have unconnected islands of subgraphs.\nWhat problems in my realization I want to solve:\n1. I have to build many walks that will be deleted sooner or later because they are not closed chains.\n2. I have to check which vertices have already been passed in order to get the next ones.\nUPDATE\nFor what I want to apply it.\nI need to filter out incoming incorrect currency pairs' data by their prices. Every currency pair has two current prices: (best) ask and (best) bid. The currency pair's data will be considered valid if it is possible to build an unprofitable exchanging closed chain (vertex-disjoint cycle) containing at least 4 vertices. (Cycle A-B-A is always valid.)\nThe closed chain is considered unprofitable when the product of the chain's asks is bigger than 1 and the product of the chain's bids is less than 1.\n$\\prod A_i>1,$\n$\\prod B_i<1$\nIn this case, each currency pair in the chain is valid.\nAt the same time, finding an invalid chain is not a consequence of the fact that the data is invalid. Only the failure to find a valid chain will be it.", "835" ], [ "Fast algorithm for clustering groups of elements given their size/time\nI don't know if there is a canonical problem reducing my practical problem, so I will just try to describe it the best that I can.\nI would like to cluster files into the specified number of groups, where each groups size (= the sum of sizes of files in this group) is as close as possible to each other group in this cluster (but not in other clusters). Here are the requirements:\n1. The first group always contain one file, which is the biggest of all groups in the cluster.\n2.", "864" ], [ "Any other group but the first can have multiple files in it.\n3. The number of groups in each cluster is constrained to a maximum specified by user (but there can be less groups if it's better or there's not enough files).\n4. There's no constraint on the number of clusters (there can be as little or as many as necessary).\n5. Goal (objective function): minimize the space left in all groups (of all clusters) while maximizing the number of groups per cluster (up to the maximum specified).\nThe reason behind these requirements is that I am encoding files together, and any remaining space in any group will need to be filled by null bytes, which is a waste of space.\nClarification on the objective and constraints that follow from the requirements and the problem statement:\n* Input is a list of files with their respective size.\n* Desired output: a list of clusters with each clusters being comprised of groups of files, each group having one or several concatenated files.\n* There must be at least 2 groups per cluster (except if no file is remaining) and up to a maximum of G groups (specified by user).\n* Each file can be assigned to any group whatsoever and each group can be assigned to any cluster.\n* The number of clusters can be chosen freely.\nHere is a schema that shows one wrong and one good example of clustering schemes on 5 files (1 big file, and 4 files of exactly half the size of the big file) with a number of groups = 2:\nThe solution needs not be optimal, it can be sub-optimal as long as it's good enough, so greedy/heuristics algorithms are acceptable as long as their complexity is good enough.\nAnother concrete example to be clear: let's say I have this list of 10 files with their sizes, this is the input (in Python):\n['file_3': 7,\n'file_8': 11,\n'file_6': 14,\n'file_9': 51,\n'file_1': 55,\n'file_4': 58,\n'file_5': 67,\n'file_2': 68,\n'file_7': 83,\n'file_0': 85]\nThe final output is a list of clusters like this (constrained here to 3 groups per cluster):\n{1: [['file_0'], ['file_7'], ['file_2', 'file_6']],\n2: [['file_5'], ['file_4', 'file_3'], ['file_1', 'file_8']],\n3: [['file_9']]}\nAnd for example here (this is not a necessary output, it's just to check) the total size of each groups (ie, sum of file sizes for each group) for each cluster:\n{1: [85, 83, 82], 2: [67, 65, 66], 3: [51]}\nIf the problem is NP-complete and/or impossible to solve in polynomial time, I can accept a solution to a reduction of the problem, dropping the first and fourth requirements (no clusters at all, only groups):\nHere is the algorithm I could come up with for the full problem, but it's running in about O(n^g) where n is the length of the list of files, and g the number of groups per cluster:\nInput: number of groups G per cluster, list of files F with respective sizes\n- Order F by descending size\n- Until F is empty:\n- Create a cluster X\n- A = Pop first item in F\n- Put A in X[0] (X[0] is thus the first group in cluster X)\nFor g in 1..len(G)-1 :\n- B = Pop first item in F\n- Put B in X[g]\n- group_size := size(B)\nIf group_size != size(A):\nWhile group_size < size(A):\n- Find next item C in F which size(C) <= size(A) - group_size\n- Put C in X[g]\n- group_size := group_size + size(C)\nHow can I do better?", "242" ], [ "Assuming that people can walk 20 miles in a day there would need to be an average of 36.5 miles traversal between rooms to not fully explore 1000 rooms in 5 years. 20 miles a day with 365 days in a year for 5 years gets you 36500 miles traveled, split between 1000 rooms.\nIf you factor in backtracking, if your \"maze\" is a balanced binary tree with 1023 rooms, and you start at the root node, you'd need 2035 room traversals to fully explore every room. (I have no idea if this is the worst case for full graph traversal. Any graph theorists who can provide more insight) Since your explorers will travel 36500 miles in 5 years, the average traversal between rooms must be 17.9 miles.\nThis is assuming that people are just intending to visit every room. If they're searching for a specific room, 17.9 miles is the maximum distance that guarantees that they will find their goal within 5 years.", "242" ], [ "Assuming that their goal is randomly located, it's likely that they'll find it in 2 and a half years.\nGetting a bit nerd sniped by attempting to figure out what the worst graph and starting vertex would be. The shortest worst case minimum traversal is $n-1$ steps from any vertex on a Hamiltonian graph. The longest worst case minimum traversal I've discovered is the star graph, starting from the center vertex. I haven't proved it but I suspect that the star graph may have the longest worst case minimum traversal of any graph.\nI haven't determined the formula for the worst case minimum traversal for a binary tree, but the worst starting vertex is the root. The length of the worst case minimum traversal of a binary tree seems to be close to but shorter than that a star graph.\n|Graph Type|Worst Starting Vertex|Worst Case Minimum Traversal|Distance Between Rooms| |--|--|--|--| |Any Hamiltonian graph|Any|$n-1$ steps|36.53 miles| |Path (linear) graph|Center|$(n-1)+\\lfloor \\frac{n-1}{2} \\rfloor$ steps| 24.3 miles | |Star graph|Center|$2(n-2)+1$ steps|18.2 miles|", "743" ], [ "Circular path visiting fewest nodes\nI don't know what this problem is called, so I haven't been able to Google for it, but I have a graph problem that I feel must have been solved many times before, and I just cannot find a good solution.\nGiven a directed graph, and nodes A and B, I want to find a route that takes me from A to B and back to A again, going through the fewest number of nodes. I have attempted to solve it with various versions of the shortest path problem, but it doesn't get me there. There could be a short path [A]->[1]->[2]->[B] from A to B, and one [B]->[3]->[4]->[A], that I can stitch together to get a tour that visits four nodes besides A an B (the nodes 1, 2, 3, and 4). But there might also be longer paths, [A]->[x]->[y]->[z]->[B] and [B]->[z]->[y]->[x]->[A] that ends up only visiting three nodes, because the paths overlap.\nIf I try to use a standard shortest-path approach, my thinking was to conceptually double the graph, so edges out of B would go into a copy of the graph, and look for the shortest path from A to A' where A' is the copy of node A.", "835" ], [ "That gives me a shortest path cycle, but if I visit the same node going from B to A as I do going from A to B, then it counts as much as visiting a new node, where it should be free. The cost of visiting a node in the \"copied\" graph depends on the path I took in the first graph, and if I start carrying that information with me, the heap I use for finding the shortest path has to remember not only a node but a path. The state-space explodes, and so does the running time.\nI am not convinced that this is something that has an efficient solution, and I might be able to brute-force something with a branch-and-bound approach that does track paths, changing the scoring of nodes in the \"copied\" graph. But before I start thinking along that path (no pun intended), I would like to know that I am not missing something trivial and that the problem has an efficient solution.\nI would greatly appreciate any pointers to how to attack this problem, or just confirmation that it might be a problem that doesn't have an efficient solution, so I can give up on trying to find one.", "835" ], [ "Dynamic path planning and waypoint sorting\nGood evening everyone,\nI have a question that I am having a bit of trouble formulating properly and thus it is making it complicated to look up literature on the subject. What I am looking for is a name for a more general problem of the same nature, and I think it will have something to do with the title of this question, dynamic path planning and sorting.\nBefore getting into the details, I'll try to summarize the question as best as I possibly can:\nAttempted Summary\nIn a complete and weighted graph, which algorithm(s) should be used to continuously obtain a path which maximizes the reward obtained from visiting vertices if the rewards are dynamic and thus constantly changing?\nAnd now, a bit more context.\nProblem Statement\nSuppose we have a robot:\n* The robot is capable of autonomous movement\n* It is fitted with several sensors\n* The robot must patrol a set of locations L and gather data using its sensors at all of the li ∈ L\n* Some locations are more interesting than others, and may be worth visiting more frequently. What makes these locations \"more interesting\" is that data taken from these locations have a higher variance than the data taken from other locations. Also, it is important to take into account the time since the location was last visited. The longer it has been, the more desirable it will become to visit.\nThe goal is to properly schedule the order in which the different locations should be visited so that we can both maximize the information gain and minimize the energy expended by the robot, e.g: the distance traveled. We can assume the robot can move freely from any point and to any location, not just from location to location.", "103" ], [ "Also, the robot must gather data continuously for a period of time T, so the scheduling has to be done more than once.\nMy view\nTo me, it looks like this problem can be modeled as a graph. The vertices represent each of the locations that the robot must visit, and the edges have a cost associated to them which represent the distance that must be traveled. I believe the robot itself can also be modeled as a vertex in this graph, which has edges connecting it to every single other location. We can assume all locations are also fully connected between each other, since the robot can go from li to lj such that ∀ i, j ∈ L, however some of these pairs will not be desirable given the distance.\nSo we are trying to minimize energy expenditure while maximizing information gain. This part sounds like an optimization problem. If I can model the information gain or \"reward\" obtained from visiting each vertex, taking into account factors such as arbitrary importance of the vertex and variance, it might make sense to use a classical pathfinding algorithm, however I am not too sure how these algorithms behave when used against vertices whose rewards change over time (the overall reward of a vertex will be affected by the amount of time that has passed since it was last visited).\nI have also thought about modeling this as a linear programming problem, however I am not quite sure how to obtain a sorted set using this approach (of course I can get the best and worst locations to visit, but what about the order of the rest?)\nThank you for your suggestions.", "835" ] ]

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[ [ "How I Made the Great Game of Qwirkle Even Better!\nIntroduction: How I Made the Great Game of Qwirkle Even Better!\nI'll start off by saying that Qwirkle is a brilliant game, very simple rules but requires concentration to score well and win. If you enjoy a fun game that requires some thinking, this is for you 👍\nSupplies\n1 x Qwirkle game\n1 x Router, ideally mounted in a table\nAppropriate sized router bit or bits in my case (more info to follow)\nWood glue, I used Gorilla\n5 Minute epoxy glue, again I used Gorilla\nOhhh, don't forget the 432 magnets, I bought mine from www.first4magnets.com\nStep 1: The Problem & the Brainwave.\nThe problem (as I saw it) is that the pieces when laid don't always line up correctly, they can get knocked out of alignment very easily and when you're trying to slot a piece into a gap somewhere all sorts of non-alignment carnage can ensue.\nNow I do realize that I can be more than a little picky at times but this does bother me.\nBut I had a brainwave, 'I know, I'll just add magnets'...\nI did a little working out (sketch) just to check that no matter the order of placement a North Pole would always line up with a South Pole. I'm pleased to say my thinking was correct.\nStep 2: Magnet Choice\nOne of my concerns about adding the magnets was that as you move a piece into place the other pieces would move to meet the new piece.\nWith this in mind I went for one of the smallest magnets I could find that would still have enough strength to hold the played pieces in place.\nThe Qwirkle pieces are 12 mm (0.47 inch) wide, so I went for a 4 mm (0.16 inch) round magnet as this would give plenty of space either side of the routed hole. On the website I was searching there were three different thicknesses, I went for the 1 mm (0.039 inch), there are then two different strengths, N42 or N35 I went for the slightly lower strength N35 version.\nThis is the exact magnet I went for 4 mm diameter x 1 mm thick N35 Neodymium Magnet, with 0.16 kg Pull\nAs this was a complete guess I'm very pleased to say that this strength was perfect.\nStep 3: Making the Router Jig\nFor repeatability but more importantly safety I decided to make a quick jig for routing out the holes.\nIn my router table I have a T track which I used to secure a piece of 5 mm (0.2 inch) plywood over the router, to make the hole in the plywood I raised the router up through the ply while turned on. This makes sure the bit is perfectly centred.\nNext was to mark up and attached the guides for the locator, this was done by measuring the pieces width and depth and marking that out on the ply.\nI used some pieces of thinker ply offcuts as the surrounds, these were stuck down using Gorilla wood glue.\nStep 4: This Is Where the Madness Starts...\nWith 108 individual Qwirkle pieces there are 432 sides that need routing.\nThis is where I made my first mistake, I originally tried using an 8 mm (0.31 inch) router bit but this was way too big and allowed for too much inaccuracy in the magnet placement.", "622" ], [ "Thankfully I checked this before routing out too many pieces only doing 7.\nI changed the router bit out for a 6 mm (0.24 inch) one, this was much better for magnet placement accuracy but had a different issue. The cutter has a blade on each side but these don't meet in the middle, leaving a small nubbin in the centre of the hole. This meant that after routing out 432 sides I had to change out for a 3.2 mm (0.13 inch) bit and re-route all 432 side again.\nThe trick here was to make sure that the face of the piece was always facing towards myself, this ensured the hole was always in exactly the same place. After all, the most important part about this whole thing was making the pieces line up when played.\nStep 5: Madness Part 2... Glueing\nWith all 864 routing passes done it was now time for the glue up.\nThis took more than a bit of practice but check out the video for the final process.\nFirstly I aligned all the magnets so they were all north to south, this meant I was able to take one off the bottom of the stack and know it was correctly orientated.\nNext mix up a blob of two part epoxy.\nThe procedure was then as follows...\n1.", "599" ], [ "Open Face Bird Feeder\nIntroduction: Open Face Bird Feeder\nI have a number of bird feeders in the tree in our front garden. The trouble is that our local robins never eat from them, they are always on the scraps that fall on the ground.\nDoing a little research I found that robins will feed from tables or open feeders, I wanted something to hang from the tree so decided I would make an open feeder.\nSupplies\nA bandsaw\nA log not too big to go through your bandsaw\nSome wood glue\nA few screws (optional)\nClamps\nSome rope to hang the feeder\n4 x screw in eyes\nA drill with drill bit to make the holes for rope\nStep 1: The Woodwork Step\nThe woodworking steps are very similar to making a bandsaw box.\nEverything in this step was done freehand on the bandsaw (carefully).\nFirst off I wanted to get the two ends flat and parallel to each other. For this I used a 13 mm 6 tpi blade.\nAs this is 'just' a bird feeder I didn't actually measure anything and did it by eye.\nOnce the log was squared off I chopped both ends off at about 15 mm thickness.\nI marked out the section to be removed and because the curves were a little tighter, swapped out the blade for a 6 mm 10 tpi blade.\nThis was the first time I had made a cut of this depth using the band saw, and I was incredibly impressed with how it sliced through 220 mm of green oak.\nThe first curve was a little more open than I had planned, I don't think I was putting enough forward pressure with the turning pressure.", "431" ], [ "However, the cut was perfectly 90º upright through the whole cut.\nI could now reattach the end pieces to close off the box. This was done with some waterproof wood glue and a couple of stainless screws. I left it clamped overnight to make sure the glue set.\nStep 2: Stringing It Up\nThis step was a little tricky as I wanted to make sure that the feeder couldn't tip forward and spill out all the food or tip back and make it so the birds wouldn't be able to perch and feed.\nI decided to go with 4 screw in eyes, this allowed me to tie on 4 suspension lines. These lines were run through holes in a top bar.\nThe conjunction of the 4 lines and top bar made it possible to balance the feeder front to back and left to right.\nI was able to get it perfectly balanced on the single hanging line passed through the top bar.\nStep 3: Feeders First Visitor\nSUCCESS, the feeder had only been up about an hour and I got the first visitor, a very skittish robin came in and fed 4 or 5 times.\nHere's hoping it becomes a regular feeding spot.", "599" ], [ "🐦 House Sparrow 🐦 Bird Box Terrace 🐦\nIntroduction: 🐦 House Sparrow 🐦 Bird Box Terrace 🐦\nBased on a number of comments I've had from my USA readers please read this note before embarking on this project...\nThe House Sparrow is an invasive species to the Americas, as such should NOT be encouraged. You could use this instructable as a starting point for a box that encourages your native species.\nPlease take into consideration your local wildlife recommendations for house styles.\nI'm lucky enough to be in the UK and have a tree and bushes outside our front window, for years now I've been feeding the house sparrows that congregate there. Sometimes there are 40-50 birds chirping away.\nA couple of years ago I put up a cheap bird house that was immediately occupied and saw two broods.\nI decided this year they would get a house upgrade to a terrace of four houses they could share with their friends.\nSupplies\nThe supplies for this one is fairly simple, about 4 metres (4.4') of rough sawn timber and some outdoor screws. If you decide to go over the top (as I did) 5–6 metres (5.5–6.5') of 7 mm (0.28\") western red cedar.\nI also used an air staple gun to attach the shingles.\nStep 1: Bird Terrace Design\nThe design of the terrace was based around the original single bird house. This was obviously the right size and shape, so was a good starting point.\nI've attached the original SketchUp file so you can edit it if you choose. I've also put all the individual images into a single PDF file for those who don't have SketchUp.\nStep 2: Preparing the Planks\nUnfortunately the length of the planks I got were too big to be safely cut on my table saw.\nI use my chop saw very infrequently, so it is packed away. I had to cut them down to length with the circular saw.", "644" ], [ "To make sure this was straight I clamped a framing square and cut to that.\nOnce I had cut the pieces to length I used the planer to square them up, then a few passes through the thicknesser to get them all to the same thickness.\nGetting the pieces square and the same thickness is very important for the next step.\nStep 3: Making the Front and Back\nThe planks I had were only 150 mm (5.9\") wide, so I had to join two lengthwise to get the width needed.\nHaving got the boards straight and flat I joined them using Kreg pocket screws, waterproof wood glue was also used.\nI used dog hole clamps to make sure the faces were flat while the pocket screws were screwed in.\nChecking on the angle of the top edge in the SketchUp design, I needed 72.6º. Having zeroed the angle finder the closest I could get it was 72.7º, I was happy that a 0.1º error wouldn't be noticed by the sparrows.\nThis angle was cut to the top edge of both the front and back pieces.\nWhile the angle was set on the saw I also ran the cut along the back of the lid. I left the front of the lid so there was a rain overhang.\nStep 4: Making the Separators\nThe SketchUp image here shows the sizes required for the separators, the two larger ones are for the ends and three shorter ones are required for the internal separators.\nOne of the dangers of cutting lengths of wood on a table saw is trapping the wood between the blade and fence. To stop this I have a piece of 20 mm (7.87\") wide wood that bolts through the fence, the wood to be cut is butted to the fake fence then cut, it makes sure there is enough space so the cut piece doesn't get trapped.\nWith the 5 lengths cut I then added the angled cut to the top. The angle is 72.6º the same as the top edges. I used the mitre guide sliding table on the saw. My saw has a really handy 'yellow dot' on the saw bed, marked on this is the kerf of the blade, it makes it super easy to line up the corner to cut to.\nStep 5: Entrance Holes\nThe entrance holes for bird houses have very specific dimensions depending on the bird they are intended for. For the house sparrow it needs to be 32 mm (1.26\").\nThe SketchUp image shows the layout of the entrance holes.\nThe holes were marked out, then drilled using a 32 mm (1.26\") Forstner bit in a pillar drill.", "599" ], [ "Single Plank Bat Box\nIntroduction: Single Plank Bat Box\nI've been meaning to make a bat box for a while, when this contest popped up I thought it would make a great project and one I could do with just hand tools.\nI took the basic plans from this RSPB website, it's a fairly simple one plank build.\nI'm lucky enough to live near a very good timber merchant, they carry a large array of rough-sawn wood. I bought 2 x 4000 mm lengths of 150 mm wide x 22 mm thick, the plan is to make one of these bat boxes using only hand tools for this contest then knock out 3 or 4 more using all the tools in my shop.\nThe only powered tool used in the making of this project was my car to get the wood.\nSupplies\n1 length of untreated rough-sawn wood 150 mm wide x 1100 mm long x 22 mm thick.\nHand saw\nHand drill\nScrewdriver\nTape measure\nSquare\nSanding block\n<PERSON> knife\n6 mm wood chisel\nWood glue\n20+ #8 x 50 mm screws\nWood filler\nWood primer\nFinish paint\nStep 1: 5 Simple Cuts\nMaking the pieces for the box is fairly simple if you start with a piece of the correct width.\nFollowing the plan from the RSPB layout, the first cut is the trickiest, start by marking out both sides down the length. When making the cuts try to make sure they are as upright (90º) as possible as this will help you get better joints.\nBecause this is rough-sawn timber after all the parts were cut I sanded down all the edges.\nStep 2: Making the Landing Strip\nTo make the entrance easier for the bats to enter I cut a tiny bat ladder in the backboard.\nTo do this I scored two lines a few mm deep across the board, I then chiselled this out.\nThis again was given a quick rub over with the sanding block.\nStep 3: Making the Lid\nThe next step is to make the lid.\nI clamped all the parts minus the lid together, then laid the lid won the side outside the backboard this allowed me to mark the angle I needed to plane.\nUsing a recently sharpened block plane I was able to put the angle on the lid making sure I stuck to the marked angle.\nI left the front face of the lid without the angle because this would allow rain water to spill off the front.\nFollowing the same method as cutting the bat ladder I added a lid width slot in the backboard, the lid can be wedged in to this slot to add to the waterproof and draft proof nature of the box.\nStep 4: Hand Drill\nMy first issue was, I don't own a hand drill nor did any of my neighbours.\nGood news... my dad had one on his boat...", "401" ], [ "Bad news... It was on his boat, covered in rusty gunk and unused for years, this thing hardly turned so my first hour was spent stripping it, cleaning and giving it a grease.\nI really missed my powered drill at this stage, manually drilling holes is a time-consuming task.\nWith all that said, I used a combo drill and countersink bit to make the 20 fixing holes through the sides and lid.\nTo make sure I got the fixing holes centred in the receiving piece I marked the wood width by tracing along an off cut.\nStep 5: Assembly\nThe assembly of the box is a simple task.\nThe only bit that requires some precision is getting the sides in their correct position. Apply plenty of wood glue to the side of the backboard where the side will contact. Line up the top of the side with the bottom of the slot cut for the top, screw in to place. Repeat for the other side.\nApply glue to the front piece and screw it in to place between the sides.\nIt might be overkill but I decided to scuff up the inside back wall and inner lid, this was aid the grip for the bats.\nGlue the lid stop in at the front of the box, make sure you align the top edge of the stop with the top edge of the sides.\nGlue and screw the top in to place making sure you put glue the slot cut in to the back board and position the top in the slot.\nStep 6: Fill and Sand\nUsing wood filler I filled all the screw holes and joint gaps.\nLeaving it overnight to harden the following day I sanded it all flat.\nBefore painting it, I drilled 3 mounting holes, two in the top and one underneath in the bat ladder.\nStep 7: Undercoat\nBeing as this is going to be mounted outside in the always beautiful British weather 😉 I decided to paint the box.", "785" ], [ "1890's Style Rocking Horse\nIntroduction: 1890's Style Rocking Horse\nUsing pre-purchased plans I built an 1890's Style rocking horse for my 5 boys for Christmas. I built 95% of this using a single sheet of 3/4\" Furniture grade ply-wood. I used a 2x6 for the supports and some 1/8\" plywood to make templates. I also used some fabrics to make some embellishments and make for a smoother ride.\nSupplies\nMaterials used:\n1 x Sheet of 3/4 Furniture Grade Plywood (4' x 8')\n1 x Standard 2 x 6 (because it was safer than doubling up plywood to use for the support)\nUpholstery Vinyl for the saddle\nImitation sheep skin for the horse blanket\nImitation fur for his little feet and his mane\nleather accents for the bridle\nBrass hoops for rein supports\nBlack cotton cord for the reins\nFurniture nails for accents\n2 Dolls eyes\nBroom Handle cut off for handles\nWooden dowels for support\n4\" screws\nTitebond II wood glue\nWoodfiller for gaps\nBrown, White and Black paint\nTools used:\nJigsaw (used to cut all of the pieces)\nTracksaw (used to cut the sheet into smaller pieces)\nGuinevere Sanding System (Used to sand for days....)\nCordless Drill (1/2\" bit used for dowels, 1.25\" bit used for boring handle holes, 1/8\" bit for eye holes)\nCordless Screwdriver (driving in screws to hold it all together while glue set up)\n18ga brad nailer (pin together while glue set)\nPalm router (1/2\" round over bit, used to round over the whole thing)\nFiles and Rasps (used for shaping body)\nDrum sander (used to remove finish from the plywood - not needed if you have unfinished stock)\nSpindle Sander (used to make the legs consistent)\nStaple gun (used to attach fur and saddle)\nUpholstery hammer (used to tap nails in)\nMallet (used to knock in dowels)\nSand paper and drum rollers (used to finish horse prior to painting)\nA million clamps (used to secure everything in place)\nPaint brushes (for application of glue and paint)\nAdditional:\nAnticipating I would make more than one of these, and in different sizes, I decided to build a set of templates for future use. I built a set based on the original plan dimensions and I also built a set of templates at 135% of original dimensions (this is the set I used to build this horse). The plans I used were purchased from a toymakers site, which were excellent and required little modification. I am sure if you search for 1890's rocking horse you can find the plans I used.\nStep 1: Building the Template\nThe plans I purchases are designed to be printed on 8.5 x 11 paper, then taped to your stock and cut. I decided that I would make 2 prints.", "401" ], [ "One on 8.5 x 11 and one on 11 x 17.\nUsing these prints I then followed the instructions and carefully taped them together. Cut them out with scissors and then attached them to 1/8\" MDF core Baltic Birch plywood.\nSince I wanted these to be cut really precisely I took them over to my bandsaw and using a 1/8\" 14 tooth scrolling blade I proceeded to cut all of the parts for each set of templates.\nNow I have 2 sets of templates for when I need to do this again.\nPrinting and making a set of patterns like this also allowed me to get an idea of the scale of the thing at 135% of the plan design. I have big kids, and so I needed to make sure that it would be big enough to last a while.\nStep 2: Cutting Out the Pieces\nThere is the sheet of 4' x 8' x 3/4\" material, I used a pencil to trace around the patterns and then used my Jigsaw along with a plywood cutting blade to chop out all of the pieces. Since I made this 135% of the plan size, it was a really tight fit on the sheet. The second picture is what was left to make the runners and the saddle frame.\nMost pieces are doubled up and I held them together with clamps to get a look at how well I did cutting them. I was close but not great.\ntip** Here is how I got the legs perfect. I applied some blue painters tape to the leg pieces, then added some superglue on top of the tape. Then I put all of the leg pieces together. This glued the tape together but not the legs.", "599" ], [ "A Much Safer Table Saw Taper Jig\nIntroduction: A Much Safer Table Saw Taper Jig\nMy neighbour who knows I do a bit of woodworking asked me to cut some angles in some wood, he is making a dovecote. To do it properly I made an angle jig... or at least I thought I had made it properly, I posted a picture of it on a woodworking Reddit sub.\nA lot of the comments ranged from 'looks a little dangerous' to 'oh my, I fear for your life'...\nI decided to make a better, safer version. I'm really pleased how it came out, it is also more functional.\nSupplies\nA piece of 18 mm ply (sized to your table saw).\n1 or 2 pieces of wood for mounting the clamps to.\n2 x 8 mm coach bolts.\n2 x 8 mm nuts.\n2 x Bessey Horizontal Hold-Down Self-Adjusting Toggle Clamp\nSome screws and glue to hold it together\nTable saw\nAngle grinder with metal cutting disc\nRouter mounted in table, 12 and 8 mm router bits\nStep 1: Base T-slot and Bolts\nNot having any t-bolts to hand I need to make my own, I took a couple of 8 mm coach bolts, trimming off the sides with an angle grinder gave me perfect t-bolts.\nThe reason for squaring off the bolt head is so that it doesn't turn in the slot when you tighten it down (during use).\nNext was to cut a receiving slot into the baseplate.\nWith the 12 mm router bit I cut a slot, this slot needs to be just over the depth of the head of the bolt.\nWhen cutting the slot you need to stop it short of both sides, to do this I pencilled two mark on the router table fence, this allowed me to plunge the wood about 30 mm from the first side and stop before the other.\nNow, without moving the router table fence, swap out the bit for the smaller 8 mm bit. Not moving the fence ensures the next slot is perfectly centred on the previous one. This second slot also needs to stop before the ends and is for the bolt to pass through the baseplate.\nDon't change the router bit...", "431" ], [ "You'll need it in a moment.\nStep 2: Making and Mounting the Runner\nOne of my ways to make the jig safer was to attach it to a runner, eliminating the chance of the jig moving away or worse nearer to the blade.\nI needed to make a runner that was tight but not too tight that it couldn't slide.\nUsing a piece of hardwood (sorry don't know the type) I cut a strip to the correct width.\nI used a zero clearance insert in my saw as the next cut was going to be narrower than the gap in the normal insert. If you don't have a zero clearance insert, they are pretty easy to make, mine is just 12 mm MDF.\nThe second cut was to trim the runner down to just below the depth of the t-slot, you want to do this so the baseplate will sit squarely on the saw table.\nTo attach the baseplate to the runner, space the runner slightly off the bottom of the t-slot, I used a couple of thin strips of wood but in the past I've used washers. So long as you can raise the runner above the level of the table that will work.\nAdd a couple of drops of superglue (CA glue) to the top of the runner, both ends and in the middle. Coat the rest of the runner with wood glue.\nNow raise the blade as high as it will go, you'll use this to align the baseplate. Holding the baseplate against the blade lower it to the runner, press it down to allow the superglue to grab.\nCarefully lift the baseplate and flip over, you now want to drill a few countersunk holes in the runner, finally secure the runner with some screws.\nStep 3: Hold Down Bar\nThe clamp hold down bar is next, I made two of these. The first one will have the clamps screwed into and this was made of hardwood (maple) and the second was just a riser, this was made of a piece of pine.\nBoth pieces were 845 mm x 65 mm x 18 mm.\nThese pieces need slots cut in them to allow for the bolts.\nStart by centring up the bar with the router bit, then cut I used the same stop marks on the fence to allow me to plunge the wood onto the router. To make the slot all the way through I made 3 or 4 passes.\nStep 4: DIY Hand Wheels\nI had originally planned to use a spanner to tighten down the bar but I tried this a couple of times and it was dreadful.", "599" ], [ "Concrete Side Table\nIntroduction: Concrete Side Table\nHey guys! In this Instructable I’ll show you my first ever project using concrete! This round side table used white concrete and walnut for the base. I'll share with you the tips and tricks I learned along the way as well as something I'd do differently the next time I did a project like this.\nKeep reading and I’ll show you how I did it!\nIf you like this instructable be sure to check out my most popular instructables below:\n5 Pro Tips for Making Cutting Boards\nHow to Make an End Grain Butcher Block\nHow to Make a Slab Flattening Mill\nThe Ultimate Table Saw Fence\nIf you like this instructional content you can also find me at:\nMy Website (full tutorials, plans, videos): https://mwawoodworks.com\nMy YouTube (all my build videos): https://youtube.com/c/mwawoodworks\nMy Instagram (behind the scenes stuff): https://instagram.com/mwawoodworks\nMy Pinterest (things I find inspirational) : https://pinterest.com/mwawoodworks\nSupplies\nTOOLS AND SUPPLIES IN THIS VIDEO:\n►Spectape Two Sided Tape - https://amzn.to/3wleKh4\n►Black Type 2 Silicone Caulk - https://amzn.to/3zjHqc0\n►3/8” Masonry Drill Bit - https://amzn.to/3zjHqc0\n►Mud/Concrete Auger - https://amzn.to/3zjHqc0\n►Silicone Caulking Tool - https://amzn.to/3zjHqc0\n►Heat Gun - https://amzn.to/3zjHqc0\n►Table Saw Ripping Blade – https://amzn.to/3zjHqc0\n►Table Saw Dado Blades - https://amzn.to/3zjHqc0\n►White Concrete Countertop Mix – https://www.concretecountertopsolutions.com/produ...\n►Bright White Integral Pigment – https://www.concretecountertopsolutions.com/produ...\n►Z Aqua-Thane M35 Concrete Sealer - https://www.concretecountertopsolutions.com/produ...\nStep 1: Creating the Concrete Form\nSo, like I said this is my first time using concrete in a project and the first thing I need to do is create a form to cast the concrete in. I want to create a 20” round table top and so I’m cutting a 20” round circle out of ¾” melamine on the CNC.\nFor all of you sans-CNC folk two good options for cutting out a circle like this is to use a router attached to a trammel or you could use a circle cutting jig on the bandsaw. If you don’t follow me on Instagram yet I’ve posted videos of making and using my circle cutting jig at the bandsaw, so check those out if you want to learn more about that method.\nThe end result is one perfect 20” circle.\nNow, for the side wall of the form I went and picked up a piece of PVC base molding at the big orange borg. It cost me all of 8 bucks.", "493" ], [ "I went ahead and cut off the top of the trim to leave me with a nice flat surface.\nI then turned it up on edge and basically cut it in half but apparently my camera battery died. The end result is a strip that’s about ¼” thick, which gives it enough flexibility to bend it around this circle form and screw it into place.\nA trick I learned is that using a heat gun to soften the pvc will get you across the goal line.\nStep 2: Sealing the Form\nNext I needed to caulk the seams and I’m using black silicone caulk for this. I’m using black just for visibility sake. You can see it better against the melamine versus a white or clear caulk, but if all you can find is white or clear they will work too. This is why I wanted the high visibility so I can go back and remove all the excess easily.\nThis excess just peels right off the PVC and melamine and a scotch bright pad works like a magic eraser, cleaning up all the remaining smears.\nFor a little precaution I also added a ratchet strap. I don’t think this is completely necessary but since I haven’t worked with concrete, I wasn’t sure if the sides would bulge or not, so better safe than sorry.", "933" ], [ "Telescope Setting Circles\nIntroduction: Telescope Setting Circles\nI have been considering the best way to improve my telescope viewing activities and Setting Circles seem to be an improvement I could make to my two Dobsonian Skywatcher telescopes that provide a quick win.\nHere is a view of the Setting Circle on my smaller 130p telescope, there are more images of this and my larger 305p telescope later in this instructable.\nSupplies\n* The Smaller Telescope is a Skywatcher Heritage 130p D130mm F160mm on a Dobsonian Mount\n* The Larger Telescope is a Skywatcher Skyliner 300p Flextube D305mm F1500mm on a Dobsonian Mount\n* The wooden annular rings were sourced from this eBay company who were excellent and helped me work through the design, size, thickness, etc. I highly recommend them\nhttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Circle-MDF-400mm-diamet...\n* I used the following website to prepare and print the scales to go on the annular rings https://www.blocklayer.com/circle-divider.aspx\n* I also looked at a number of other people’s designs on a variety of websites and forums to get ideas\nStep 1: First Thoughts\nIn planning my design I worked with the following ideas and principles:\n* Each setting circle will be placed over the appropriate telescope and placed around the top base disc:\n+ For the smaller telescope the annular ring will rest on the lugs of the lower base disc\n+ For the larger telescope suitable supports will be fitted to the lower base disc, protruding out, that the annular ring will rest upon\n* In use the telescope is aligned North – South (using a compass) and the annular ring rotated until the 0° is under the pointer\n* The pointer will be fixed to the base using a magnet so that it can be removed and replaced easily whilst maintaining pointer alignment - I didn't actually do it like this as I found a simpler solution\n* When the telescope is rotated the annular ring remains in situ hence showing the angle that the telescope is now pointing (Azimuth)\n* The annular ring will have 360 degrees marked on it so that the telescope can be aligned to a single degree accuracy\n* The inside diameter of the annular ring quoted for each telescope is the actual measurement therefore some tolerance is required to allow the telescope turntable to move without catching on the annular ring\n* I’ve allowed 2 mm all round for clearance\n* The actual width of the annular ring is not vital as there is sufficient clearance once the ring is laid over the base\n* I have worked with 30 mm as that will allow sufficient space for the angle graduations to be placed easily – probably using a paper template\n* 25 mm thick MDF for both annular rings is probably best to maintain strength\n* Minimise any permanent changes to the telescopes or their mounts by reusing existing holes, mounts, etc.\nStep 2: 130p Telescope Plans\nThis instructable will show the steps primarily for the smaller 130p telescope, but the larger 305p telescope steps and principles are basically the same.", "737" ], [ "I have attached a pdf at the end of this instructable which have all of the steps and a few more pictures which might help in understanding why I did what I did and what you might want to change/adapt.\nStep 3: Designing the Paper Scales\nThere are a number of scale production websites out there but I found this site gave me a good range of options to parameterise to my needs the scales to go on the annular rings\nhttps://www.blocklayer.com/circle-divider.aspx\nThere are more photos and details on producing the paper scales in the pdf at the end of this Instructable.\nStep 4: Printing the Paper Scales\nIdeally the scales should be printed on a single page but I was limited to an A4 printer. Under normal times I might have considered using a printing service but as it turned out separate arcs printed on A4 then pasted on the annular ring works very well.\nStep 5: Completing the Annular Rings\n* The paper scale was glued onto the wooden annular ring with PVA glue\n* The scale was sealed with Jigsaw Puzzle Conserver as I happened to have some handy. I believe an alternative would be Modge Podge although I’ve never used it myself\n+ Although I am not planning to have the telescopes out in the rain there is a risk of damp when in use\nStep 6: Centralising and Supporting the Setting Circles\nAlthough the Setting Circles sit well on the telescopes, I wanted to ensure that any errors were minimised so the Setting Circles should be centralised around the telescope base and ideally limited in its movement once aligned.", "646" ] ]

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[ [ "Cheer\nQuick summary:\n- this made me feel so many emotions.. I cried a lot, which is something that doesn’t really happen.", "427" ], [ "And that was because I cared about everyone and everything that was happening.\n- it made me care about a sport I barely knew anything about before watching, which is definitely a great accomplishment. I feel like I got an authentic grasp of what competitive cheerleading feel like.\n- I feel personally attached to them, even though I’ve only spent a few hours with them. They all are so brave and strong.\n- the editing is terrific, as well as the build-up.\n- is season 2 happening? I need to know!!", "427" ], [ "<PERSON>\nIt’s very rare I look at a movie that’s 3 hours long and say, “I’m going to watch it!” but that’s what I did tonight with Magnolia…\nI enjoyed it! My stress for some scenes would turn up, down, up, down. Like Big P (<PERSON> to his fans) …cool it man 😭\n<PERSON> be like: (camera zoom) 🎥\nThe ending was ehh. I was so into the overall story and then the (sky scene) happened.", "410" ], [ "I know the director was signifying a meaning but maaan. Feel like it was so out of the ordinary from the story being “real life” that I just lost interest. I’m a hater, I’m sorry.", "596" ], [ "Killers of the Flower Moon\nA mixed bag for me. I honestly don’t know how to rate it because i found it unremarkable, apparently. I watched it 10 days ago and i don’t remember almost half of the movie. I remember it taking me three whole days to finish though.", "930" ], [ "Three and a half hours is just insane and i don’t think it should be allowed… I was suffering.\nThis definitely isn’t <PERSON>’s best. I kinda hate the directing choices in this one. It meanders way too much to be enjoyable. However, the cinematography is flawless and <PERSON> is outstanding.", "698" ], [ "Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind\npaaaaaaatrick baaaaaaabyboy\nfirst rewatch in many years. I was nervous to revisit but thrilled to report it’s just as funny and moving as ever.", "462" ], [ "heartbreak, grief, love, memory, it’s all here.\nthe ensemble is so fab (<PERSON>! hot <PERSON>! creepy <PERSON>! <PERSON>!!! (RIP 💔) Tony Award Winner <PERSON>!) anchored by truly career best performances from <PERSON> and <PERSON>. an all-timer score by <PERSON>. I’m always so moved by the way the A plot and the B plot reflect each other.\nthis rewatch I was so struck by <PERSON>’s analog design aesthetic and world-building - not just the stuff like the practical effects and stop motion-esque decaying of the memories etc, but like the cassette tapes and paper files and notebooks, <PERSON> and <PERSON>’s lives feel so lived-in in a way you don’t really see in movies now", "1009" ], [ "Blade Runner 2049\nY'all are going to hate me for this review.\nI'll start off with mentioning that the colors and the visuals of this movie are BEAUTIFUL. I love it so much, and I think about it alot. I also enjoy the aspect of <PERSON> (<PERSON>) having to choose decide real girls & fake girls.\nThe thing that y'all will hate me for: I don't really understand anything going on in this movie.", "80" ], [ "I'm very complicated to watch movies with when it comes to stuff super futuristic. Mainly because I struggle very much with simple things by itself, but there were ALOT of things all together in the story that I didn't get. I can't even explain it right now, but I also didn't watch the original Blade Runner so that's probably saying alot.\ni want joi", "236" ], [ "Home Alone\nHow much I’ve missed this movie! It’s been a while since my last watch so I had forgotten almost everything about the plot - except the fact that <PERSON> is indeed home alone. This movie is incredible! It perfectly captures what it means to be a kid. When <PERSON> is left home alone, he proves himself to be extremely resourceful and strong-willed. And it’s extremely entertaining to watch him and the robbers in this cat and mouse game...", "647" ], [ "Highly recommended, especially if you’re in the holiday mood.\nchristmas spirit: snow (a lot of it!), christmas preparations, christmas trip, and christmas sweaters. It’s not a movie about christmas, but the events take place around christmas time and there are a lot of elements that remind me of christmas, such as <PERSON> cutting down a tree and decorating it, or the colorful lights outside every single house, and so on. Sometimes not much is enough. It’s a 5/5 for me.", "657" ], [ "<PERSON>\nJake and <PERSON> have such amazing brother/sister chemistry, it’s ridiculous. It’s almost like they’re actually siblings in real life…\nI also totally forgot that <PERSON> was basically a glorified extra in this film.\nWhat a legendary film.", "217" ], [ "This movie is so good and works on so many levels. From its great acting, amazing soundtrack/original score, and having one of the greatest endings in film history, Donnie Darko is a one of a kind masterpiece.\nI understood this film so much better this time compared to when I first saw it at 12 years old. It’s all makes sense now.\nGrade: 91%", "583" ], [ "<PERSON>\n<PERSON> was amazing, <PERSON>, you’re awesome and I love you.\nI don’t know how I feel about the film. I mean the acting was great, and the way everything was shot was fabulous. I’m very happy for <PERSON> because it seems like this is a dream project for him, both as director and actor.\nI feel like I just lost interest in some of the dialogue scenes. Some of them happen for like 2+ minutes in a single shot, and I have a TikTok attention span. I sometimes suck to watch movies with.", "217" ], [ "Our generation (me) is chalked.\nEach conductor scene made me happy on the inside. I feel like I have a hidden love for orchestras that I didn’t know existed. I am now going to drive home from the theater while blasting classical music.\nP.S. To the old man sitting next to me in the theater who was laughing and having a good time throughout the film, I really wished I got to talk to you before you walked out. You seem like a nice fella, and I hope you have a good rest of your night.", "583" ] ]

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[ [ "Catalan Clock\nIntroduction: Catalan Clock\nIn Catalan time is read a bit differently than in most other languages. At 00:00, is twelve o'clock, but after that time is not said as \"amount of time that passed or that is missing until the next hour\", but as \"fraction of the current hour (which by english standard will be the next one)\".\nSo at 00:15, is *un quart d'una* which translate to \"a quarter of one\"\n00:30 -> \"dos quarts d'una\" -> \"two quarters of one\"\n00:45 -> \"tres quarts d'una\" -> \"three quarters of one\"\nThis implies that from 00:01 to 01:00, we are living in the hour 1, and next minute we start the hour 2, and the in-betweens are tipically refered as one quarter, two quarters and three quarters of that hour.\nSo 02:30 will be \"dos quarts de tres\" -> \"two quarters of 3\".\nTo be a bit more precise, we also use \"i5\" and \"i10\" which translates to \"and 5\" and \" and 10\", but can be used with each number between 1 and 15.\nSo\n03:20 -> \"un quart i cinc de quatre\" -> \"one quarter and five (minutes) of 4\".\n03:25 -> \"un quart i deu de quatre\" -> \"one quarter and ten of four\"\n04:42 -> \"dos quarts i dotze de cinc\" -> \"two quarters and twelve of five\"\nThe hours o'clock are called \"en punt\" that would translate literally to \"on point\", and will follow the same system, but if it is not exactly the o'clock you will drop the \"en punt\" qualifier.\n05:00 -> \"les cinc en punt\" -> \"five on point\"\n05:02 -> \"les cinc i dos\" -> \"five and two\"\nSome times you can say it substracting minutes instead of adding them, using \"menys\" as in \"minus\"\n05:10 -> \"un quart menys cinc de sis\" -> \"a quarter minus five of six\"\n06:56 -> \"les 7 menys quatre\" -> \"seven minus four\"\nThe \"i X\" and \"menys X\" qualifiers can also be applied after the amount of quarters of the hour, so\n07:17 can be both\n-> un quart i dos de vuit (one quarter and two of eight)\n-> un quart de vuit i dos (one quarter of eight and two)\n08:42 can be both\n-> tres quarts menys tres de nou (three quarters minus 3 of nine)\n-> tres quarts de nou menys 3 (three quarters of nine minus three)\nSupplies\nPrintable paper, clock mechanism, some meterial to make the needles.\nStep 1: Print the Base of the Clock\nTake the image, and print it on a rigid surface (or on a regular paper if you have already a clock with a surface where you want to place it).\nCut the paper in a shape that fits the clock you want.\nStep 2: Cut the Needles\nThe trick with this clock is that the needles rhat clocks usually work with will not be good, so you will need to make an extension for the short one, as we want it to reach the limit of the clock, and make a small one to change the original long one for it.\nIn this case I added a piece of cardboard to the shord one, and made a new one with a piece of plastic, but any material will work, as long as it sticks to the mechanism.\nStep 3: Check the Time\nCheck which time it is, and put your new clock acordingly, now you can start reading the time in catalan, and leave your friends astonished!!!", "312" ], [ "<PERSON> Estimation Method for Pi Using Codeblocks.\nIntroduction: <PERSON> Estimation Method for Pi Using Codeblocks.\nMath is really fun if you come to understand its importance in describing our world. And one of those things that is almost everywhere is Pi, specially when it has to do with curves.\nWhen I saw this challenge I had to participate and, as a teacher and Codeblocks fan, I knew I could mix these two in one instructable.\nSo I started my investigation, and found that Pi in ancient! And in ancient times there were no computers or powerful calculators, so they had to be really creative when estimating the value of this irrational number with infinite decimals.\nI came across <PERSON> to estimate Pi. This Chinese mathematician used inscribed polygons (with a number of sides that are multiples of 6, ie: hexagon, dodecagon, and so on).\nIt is a beautiful example of creativity and use of geometry for calculation purposes. So let´s start.\nStep 1: Understanding the Algorithm\nAs I said before, it is really cool to imagine people with little resources finding a way to do something complex for their time.\n<PERSON> saw that the bigger the number of sides of a polygon, the more it resembles a circle. As you can see in the image a hexagon (green) is not a good approximation for a circle. But once you use a dodecagon (blue) you see that the sides resembles the circle better, and if you continue yo will get to the point where you wont be able to see a polygon, but a circle.\nAnother way to see this is: \"A circle is a polygon with an infinite number of sides\".\nHe stated that he could find a really good estimation of Pi by calculating the area of a polygon, because the second one was fairly doable at that time.\nUsing this scope, as a teacher you could:\n- Teach or practice the concept of a limit.\n- Teach or practice area calculations for polygons.\n- Teach or practice angles and trigonometry calculations.\nIf you want to know a little bit more, please check the following page I used for reference:\nhttps://luckytoilet.wordpress.com/2010/03/14/liu-h...\nStep 2: A Regular Polygon As a Sum of Triangles\nA regular polygon with x number of sides can be geometrically divided into an x number of isosceles triangles. Ie: In the first image you can see that a pentagon can be divided into 5 triangles, an hexagon into 6 and so on and so on. So when we can create a polygon using isosceles triangles.\nThat is what we are going to use in Codeblocks, by scaling roofs into specific isosceles triangles, we can create a regular polygon.\nIn image #2, we can see that:\n1) The angle beta at the top of the triangle can be calculated by dividing 360 degrees by the number of sides of the polygon. ------> Beta = 360 / (number of sides)\n2) The alpha angles are equal and can be calculated by subtracting beta to 180 and dividing by two, since all of the angles inside a triangle add to 180. -------> Alpha = ( 180 - Beta ) / 2\n3) The side a is always equal to the radius of the circumference. -------> a = radius.\n4) The height of the triangle h can be found using trigonometry with the sine of Alpha.", "974" ], [ "------> h = a * sin ( Alpha ).\n5) The side b can be calculated using trigonometry with the cosine of Alpha. --------> b = 2 * a * cos ( Alpha ).\nStep 3: Working With Codeblocks\nThe closest figure to a triangle in Codeblocks is a roof (Image 1). This roof has the following default dimensions: 20 mm lenght, 20 mm width and 10 mm the height. We have to take these proportions into account to accurately modify our roof. So this algorithm will be about modifying that roof.\nFirst, we have to create a variable and that is the number of sides of the desired polygon. (Image 2).\nNext we have insert a roof and modify it to be the isosceles triangle that we need. So we use the create object block and name it \"triangle\". after that we have to add a roof with a length of 2. (image 3).\nNow we have to scale it. to the desired height and width. So we need the correct proportions. For the height we use the sine of Alpha (Z axis) and for the width we use the cosine of Alpha (X axis).\nNext we rotate it 90 degrees to make it flat with the XY plane.", "110" ], [ "Carnival Fritters\nIntroduction: Carnival Fritters\nHistory says that the Carnival Fritters (Chiacchiere in Italian meaning \"small talks\") where invented for Queen <PERSON> that wanted some small desserts to enjoy during her talks with her guests.\nNow we eat the Carnival Fritters during the Carnival in Italy which correspond to the last Tuesday before the beginning of the Lent Period.\nThe fun part about the Carnival Fritters is that they can have your preferred shapes and they can be dip in chocolate or sprinkles as to remember the various colours that characterise the Carnival!\nSupplies\nThe recipe requires:\n- 250 gr of Flour\n- 25 gr of Sugar\n- 25 gr of Butter\n- White wine as needed\n- 2 eggs\n-0.5L frying oil\n- Lemon Zest\n- A pinch of Salt\n- Icing Sugar\nIf you like to dip them in chocolate:\n- 50 gr of chocolate (depending how many you`d like to dip)\n- Sprinkles\nStep 1: Prepare the Dough\nSift the flour and male a hole in the mountain of flour that you just made.\nPour 1 egg and 1 yolk. Melt the butter and pour it, add the sugar and a pinch of salt and 2 tsb of white wine. Zest a Lemon.\nStep 2: Knead the Dough\nKnead the dough. Since the amount of liquid is not enough, keep adding white wine up until the dough is composed.\nCover the dough with cling film and let it rest for 30 min.\nIn the meantime pour frying oil in a pot.\nStep 3: Roll the Dough\nRoll the dough this as a piece of sheet.\nCut the dough in different shapes as preferred (usually we tend to cut them as rectangles although you can do the shapes you like)\nStep 4: Fry the Dough\nFry the dough up until it has a golden colour.\nStep 5: If You Like Chocolate\nMelt the chocolate using the microwave.\nDip the Carnival fritters in the melted chocolate and spread sprinkles on top.\nStep 6: Eat and Enjoy!\nAdd icing sugar and Enjoy!\nEat in a max of 3 days and you can store them in a container with sealed lid.\nStep 7: And If You Like to Have More Guidance During the Procedure", "195" ], [ "Stuffed Peppers and Onions\nIntroduction: Stuffed Peppers and Onions\nA very colorful vegetarian dish, which can be almost a complete meal - contains a lot of vegetables, very little fruit and also carbohydrates.\nSupplies\n3 big onions.\n7-10 colored peppers (chose medium size peppers, with round bottom)\n3 carrots\n1 beet\nSome stalks of celery\nPistachios, Almond chips, dried cranberries (a handful of each)\n1 cup of whole rice\nWater\nOlive oil\n2 spoons of pomegranate sauce (warmly recommended)\nTomato paste\nSalt, paper, cinnamon\nOptional: 1-2 spoons of dates honey\nMedium pot, strainer, sauté with a lid\nStep 1: Pre-cook the Onions and the Rice\nPrepare two onions for stuffing:\nPeel them and cut each one lengthwise to the middle (see video).\nBoil them in water for half an hour until softened, strain them from the water and let them cool.\nMeanwhile, cook a cup of rice with two cups of water and a pinch of salt for about twenty minutes (half cooking), and leave the pot covered for a few more minutes. We used whole rice, white rice can also be as well, but then the cooking time should be shorter.\nStep 2: Preparation of the Sauce\nIn the sauté, prepare the sauce:\nHeat oil and add chopped onion. After a few minutes add chopped carrots, then (wait a few minutes ...) chopped celery sticks, and then (again ...) chopped beets. cook for a while and add pomegranate sauce and a pinch of salt, some paper and cinnamon, wait a few more minutes and add a handful of cranberries, almonds chips, and pistachios. Mix well, taste, and if necessary improve flavors.\nNow, with a perforated spoon take out half of the mixture, and add it to the rice.", "901" ], [ "This is going to be the filling.\nBack to the sauce: add to the sauté a small box of tomato paste and 1-2 cups of water, close the lid and let it cook over low heat.\nStep 3: Cut and Fill the Peppers\nMix the rice well with its sauce.\nWash the peppers, cut off their top, fill each pepper to about three-quarters of the height and cover it back.\nPut the peppers next to each other in the sauté and close back the lid.\n.\nStep 4: Fill the Onions\nGently peel one layer of the cooked onion. Hold it in one hand and place a spoonful of the filling in the center of the layer. Roll the onion around the filling (see video).\nLift the sauté lid and place the stuffed onions between the peppers. Using a spoon, take some of the sauce and cover the peppers and onions. You can add a little water as needed.\nStep 5: Cook Everything :-)\nCook over low heat for another hour and a half. Occasionally you should lift a little sauce with a spoon and pour it over the peppers and onions.\nStep 6: Bon-appetite\nBon-appetite!", "702" ], [ "🍪 Argentinian <PERSON>! 🍪\nIntroduction: 🍪 Argentinian <PERSON>! 🍪\nToday we are going to make \"Alfajores Argentinos\" a recipe of cookies filled with the traditional \"dulce de leche\" (caramel) and covered with a thin layer of chocolate.\nFor this we will need:\nCookies ingredients:\n* Flour - 400 grams\n* Corn starch - 100grams\n* butter - 200 grams\n* sugar - 200 grams\n* bitter cocoa - 20 grams\n* bicarbonate - 5 grams\n* honey - 90 grams\n* vanilla essence - a little bit\n* orange and lemon zest\n* Eggs - 2\nFilling ingredients:\n* dulce de leche (caramel) Nutella, fruit jam this is to the taste of the consumer\nCoating ingredients:\n* Chocolate chips - I choose a blend of semisweet chocolate and milk chocolate, but you can choose whatever you want - even white chocolate.\nStep 1: The Cookies\nFor the cookies we are going do 2 processes. First we are going to work the wet mix and then incorporate the dry ingredients.\nLet's start with the wet mix ...\nIn a bowl we put the butter and sugar and whip until forming a cream. Then we add the vanilla essence and the orange and lemon zest and whip the mix again. Now we add two eggs and whip it again (at first it seems that the eggs are not incorporated into the mixture but you just have to keep mixing to achieve the result) Then we add the honey and mix it again.\nStep 2:\nNow it's the dry ingredients turn\nWe place the flour, cocoa, bicarbonate, cornstarch (and a pinch of salt) in a sieve on a paper (the result has to be a brown powder) If that color is not achieved, you must do it again.\nNow we are going to incorporate the powder into the cream that we have in the bowl (it is easier if we do it little by little).", "305" ], [ "With the help of a spatula we are forming our dough. The ideal is not to knead it with your hands to avoid developing gluten.\nStep 3:\nOnce this step is finished, the result will be a beautiful dark brown dough that we proceed to stretch and then we will put in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.\nWith a cutting number 8 we are going to cut the discs and put them in a baking dish in the oven at 180 degrees for 12 minutes\nOnce the cookies are cold, we are going to fill them with \"dulce de leche\" (caramel) or with your favorite filling.\nIdeally, the flat part of the cookies should be facing out.\nStep 4:\nFor the chocolate coating, use a blend of semisweet chocolate and milk chocolate. You just have to melt it in a water bath and with the help of some forks we dip our \"alfajor\"\nuntil we cover it completely. Then we let them cool down and that's it!\nYou will have some delicious chocolate alfajores!\nPlease consider voting for me in the Cookies Speed Chalenge. Thank you! 🥰", "136" ], [ "Ancient Writing. a Cylindrical Stone Seal\nIntroduction: Ancient Writing. a Cylindrical Stone Seal\nCylinder seals appeared in Mesopotamia (Uruk Period, 4100-3300 BC).\nThey were small cylinders, made of stone, glass or other materials, often semi-precious stones, with a carved relief, which when rolled on a clay tablet left the motifs engraved, either as a record of the content of some containers or as a seal on documents.\nThey used to have a drawing accompanied by a short text, which identified its owner, so that they were used administratively as a signature, certificate or approval of an official.\nIn other cases they represented daily, religious and economic scenes.\nThe print could be extended indefinitely, so that the result was a frieze, which gave it a decorative appearance.\nSupplies\nYou will need:\n* One or two stones of the right size\n* A rotary tool with small bits.\n* (convenient) a bench grinder.\n* Multi-grain sandpapers (and preferably a belt sander).\n* Scraps of wood.\n* Some kind of plasticine or clay.\n* Wood polishing wax.\nStep 1: Find Suitable Stone\nThe first thing we need is a stone of a suitable size, so we don't have to work on it too much.\nIt's important that it must be a hard and smooth stone, because if we use a porous stone this will be reflected in the impression\nIn my case I found a stone that was already almost cylindrical.\nIt is convenient to take another similar stone because later we will need to do tests with the rotary tool.\nStep 2: Grinder\nWe need to get closer to the shape of a cylinder and for that we have to remove excess material.\nBe careful to protect your eyes and wear a mask so you don't swallow dust.\nDepending on the hardness of the stone, it can be more or less harder to make the shape.\nIn my case it is quite a hard stone.\nI start to shape it with the help of the bench grinder to approximate the shape to a cylinder, although the finish is rough and uneven, but it will be faster to remove material with this tool.\nStep 3: Sanding\nOnce the shape is approximated, we sand with a medium grain belt sander (in my case 80) (or by hand, but of course it will be harder), to leave the surface smoother and more regular.\nTo get a stone as smooth as possible we give sand it manually with the finest sandpaper we have. (In my case 1000).", "787" ], [ "When we finish it will already have a very smooth and almost shiny appearance.\nStep 4: Wax\nA coat of furniture polish will make the stone brighter and help us distinguish the engraving when we start to do it. In addition, the wax will help the plasticine not stick when we are using the seal.\nStep 5: Taking Measurements for the Drawing\nWe can make a drawing directly on the stone, but in my case I am not a very good at drawing and I need a reference, so the first thing I have to do is take the measurement of the space that I have available along the cylinder.\nYou just have to roll the cylinder on the paper.\nStep 6: Transfer the Drawing to the Stone\nWhen preparing the drawing to transfer it to the cylinder, we must keep in mind that the stamp impression on the plasticine will come out inverse to the drawing we engrave, so we have to invert the drawing we want to make.\nI have used a sheet of carbon paper to transfer the drawing to the stone. You just have to be careful that the paper does not move, but otherwise it does not have more difficulty than to pass the pencil through the drawing with the carbon paper underneath.\nStep 7: Bits Testing\nBefore starting to make the engraving on the cylinder that we have prepared, it is convenient to use a similar stone that we had previously looked for to make tests with the different bits of the rotary tool, to get an idea of the tool that will be most useful in all the working areas.\nIn this case, since they are lines and there is no need to make large carved surfaces, I have used the thinest I had.\nThere are many types of specific bits for each type of job. I just used a very fine generic one,\nBut it would be convenient for you to find out about the specifications of each tip.\nStep 8: Engraving\nNow you just have to pass the multitool through the drawing.\nI advise you to make one round loosely first, in order to better control the direction, and then several more rounds to give it depth.\nDepending on how hard the stone is, we will need more or less passes. In my case I needed 4.", "220" ], [ "Promiscuous Ambient Light\nIntroduction: Promiscuous Ambient Light\nI love shiny. So a television ambient light was an obvious project to spend some time (probably more than I should) and dollars (not many actually).\nThere are many choices depending on your hardware and budget, but I had some restrictions:\n* It should work with any HDMI input. I have been a Kodi+Raspberry pi user for years, but recently I have moved to a Roku device as it was the only reasonable option to have a local media player plus the stream applications that I usually use all centralized (Netflix, Prime, AppleTV+, Youtube). So far I am happy with it, but knowing me it is just a matter of time to start using a different rig, so I wanted something that could work with any HDMI output (hence the promiscuous name)\n* It should be cheap. Let´s be honest, I don´t need any of these.\nSo I searched the web for options, (There are some very good tutorials over there like the one in <PERSON> lab) and the most appealing was to use a Raspberry pi to capture the images to be displayed in the screen, process them, and interact with a strip of leds.\n* Pros: works with (almost) any HDMI output and it is cheap\n* Cons: nothing beyond that it requires fiddling with wires and some raspberry kung-fu\nSupplies\nThis is the list of supplies. The prices are approximate and based in the components that I bought.\nAs part of the fun was to select the different components, I will include more accurate information and the links to the stores along the different steps.\n* A TV. You probably have one already, its main function in the project is to serve as a surface where to stick the leds.\n* A Raspberry Pi. Between $5 and $70, depending on the model.\n* An HDMI splitter. $20 (you can probably do better than this)\n* A USB HDMI video capture card. $12\n* An individually addressable RGB led strip.", "51" ], [ "$15\n* A power source with enough wattage. $15\n* A JST connector with the same number of pins that your led strip uses (and the opposite gender). $2\n* A couple of short HDMI cables (apart from the one that your TV already has)\n* Electric cable, and some other random stuff that you probably have around.\n* Iron solder (probably) and some basic tools.\nStep 1: How Everything Fits Together\nThe basic idea is to get the HDMI signal coming from a media center (in my case a Roku device) and feed it at the same time to the TV (you still want to keep watching your series) and the Raspberry for processing. You can do that easily with a HDMI splitter, a device that takes one HDMI input and generates two or more identical HDMI outputs.\nTo get the HDMI signal into the Raspberry we need a HDMI to USB capture card. These devices work surprisingly well for the low cost that they have, they connect to the USB and create in your computer a video capture device that can be used by different software.\nThe Raspberry has to process the image, and determine what are the relevant colors to send to the led strip, this is done through a very nice software called Hyperion that can do all that for you.\nObviously, the led strip has to be connected to the Raspberry, that is done using of the pins in its GPIO interface.\nFinally, you need to power all this. The important part is to have an idea of how much power the leds could draw so you can select a power supply with the right watts.\nStep 2: Capture the Signal\nOne of the fun things of DIY projects is that you learn things. In my case, one of the things I learned is that there is something called High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection (HDCP) that is used to prevent copying HDMI audio and video as it travels through the connections.\nFrom a practical point of view and for what we want to do, this means that all the devices that the HDMI signal crosses have to be HDCP compliant. In my case, I learned that the hard way when after connecting this splitter, I got a message about it in my TV. I had a small panic attack that drove me to buy a compatible replacement as soon as possible and ended up with this one, significantly more expensive, and with some features I do not need (four outputs instead of two), but hey...\nIn any case, when you buy yours, make sure that it is HDCP compatible and it provides one input to two simultaneous outputs (there are some splitters that let you decide to what output do you want to send the signal to).\nUsing the USB capture card shouldn't be a trouble. Just make sure that it works.", "98" ], [ "Ice Lobster on Pavlova (6 to 8 Persons)\nIntroduction: Ice Lobster on Pavlova (6 to 8 Persons)\nMaking decorated cakes is not really something I like, but I do like to make ice cream cakes! One of the fun challenges in a tropical climate is to put an ice cake on the table that hasn't melted before it reaches the table.\nYou can find one instructable of me of a Dulce De Leche Parfait, this time I go for sorbet ice cream and an ice cream based on custard cream, no panic you do not need an ice machine. I chose a lobster as a mold, but of course you can use any shape you like.\nNote: Always clean your kitchen utensils with vinegar or lemon juice when whisking egg whites.\nI will list the tools and ingredients per part, this way it is easier to see what you need if you only want to make sorbet ice cream for example.\nStep 1: Day 1 Morning: Custard Cream\nTools:\nBowl (4)\nSaucepan\nWhisk\nKitchen scale\nCup\nMeasuring cup\nSpatula\nSieve\nWooden spoon\nIngredients:\n85 g sugar\n2 sachets of vanilla sugar\n4 egg yolks (keep the egg whites)\n45 g custard powder\n450 ml milk\nMix sugar, vanilla sugar and the custard powder, then add the egg yolks and stir with a whisk until smooth.\nIn a saucepan, bring the milk to boil, stirring with a wooden spoon and remove it from the heat as soon as the milk boils. Add a little bit of milk to the egg mixture and stir with a whisk until the milk is completely absorbed. Repeat this step twice. Then add the rest of the milk little by little and stir well until smooth.\nPour the mixture back into the pan and place it back on the stove. Bring to boil while continuing stirring, stir especially well over the bottom and the edge of the bottom. The cream is ready when it has the thickness of a custard cream.\nPour the cream into a bowl and cover it with plastic wrap. Make sure that the foil presses well on the cream to prevent of forming a skin on the cream. Let the cream cool to room temperature and place it in the refrigerator to cool further.\nStep 2: Day 1 Morning: Ice Layer 1 Mixed Red Fruit Sorbet\nTools:\nBowl\nblender\nPlastic container (freezer suitable)\nSieve (option)\nSaucepan\nWooden spoon\nPlastic foil\nIce cream/pudding or baking pan\nMixer\nSpoon (for stirring the ice)\nIngredients:\n250 g red/blue fruit\n100 ml water\n75 g sugar\n1 egg white\nOil\nBring the water with sugar to a boil and let it boil for a few minutes while stirring.", "604" ], [ "Let the thin sugar syrup cool down well, if necessary by placing the pan in cold water.\nClean the beaters and bowl with some lemon juice and beat the egg white stiff.\nMash the fruit in the blender and add the cooled sugar syrup. Sieve the fruit (optional), stir in the egg white, put the fruit mixture in a plastic container and place in the freezer.\nStir the mixture every 30 minutes to prevent crystal formation as much as possible.\nPrepare in between the ice cream mold or baking pan. Oil it slightly and then cover with plastic foil, press the foil against the ice cream/pudding or baking pan as smooth as possible. By covering it with foil, the ice will be easier to remove later.\nOnce the ice cream starts to set, transfer the sorbet ice to the chosen ice cream mold or baking pan. Fill the mold/pan to a maximum of half and let it freeze for at least 2 hours before adding layer two.\nStep 3: Day 1 Afternoon: Ice Layer 2 Pastry Cream Ice Cream\nTools:\nBowl\nFork\nMixer\nIce cream/pudding or baking pan (with ice layer 1)\nIngredients:\nCustard cream:\n300 ml heavy cream\n1 tablespoon sugar\n1 sachet Whip-it (or any other stabiliser)\n1 white (option)\nRemove the custard cream from the refrigerator and loosen with a fork.\nPlace the heavy cream, a tablespoon of sugar and the whip-it in a bowl and beat the cream with a mixer until almost stiff. Add the custard cream and beat everything well. As an option you can add extra a stiffly beaten egg white to make the ice cream a bit fluffier. I myself have left it behind.\nRemove the baking pan with the sorbet ice cream from the freezer, top up with pastry cream and place back in the freezer. Let it freeze until the next day.", "604" ] ]

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[ [ "I am not very sure what you are asking, and I am also not sure that you have the background to understand CompCert. It seems that you are still confused by some basic concepts in Coq.\nI would suggest you start with Software Foundations. Most of your questions would be answered there.\nBut, basically:\n* Definition and Fixpoint are like OCaml's let and let rec, respectively. They are used to define values and functions (and, of course, propositions).\n* Inductive is like type in OCaml, or datatype in SML. They are used to define algebraic data types (or \"inference rules\").\n* Prop is the sort of propositions, so Definition and Inductive that return Props are defining propositions (i.e., \"proof rules\"). The Definition and Inductives are not themselves proofs.\n* <PERSON>, Theorem, Corollary, etc...are used for proofs.\n* Coq is based on the <PERSON>-Howard correspondence: a proof of the proposition $A \\rightarrow B$ is a function that takes something of type $A$ and produces something of type $B$, a proof by induction corresponds to a recursive function, etc.", "904" ], [ "A proof of $A = B$ is obtained by transforming both sides and applying the only constructor of the type $=$, which is Refl of x * x (not Coq syntax, but you should get it). So, all proofs by tactic actually expand into programs!\n* In other words, Coq tactics are just another style of programming. You can use Definition and/or Fixpoint to write proofs, or use Proof to write programs. Of course, you should not do so; but you can.\n* CompCert is indeed proved against a formal specification. Which one? The official C programming language specification! Of course, you can't really prove anything against the text of the specification, so they encoded the specification in Coq using Definitions and Inductives.\nIn Software Foundations, there are examples of verifying a few toy interpreters and some toy programs, as well as more serious examples of verifying algorithms like red-black tree insertions and graph coloring. It does a pretty good job of explaining what and how to prove when you are writing programs in Coq. I would suggest that you start from there.", "904" ], [ "The categorization in that list is certainly still current.\nPerhaps one new category has emerged, namely, dependently-typed programming languages. These are essentially automated theorem provers where the primary goal is not proving theorems, but programming. Due to the <PERSON>-Howard correspondence, these two concepts are strongly intertwined. The ultimate goal of such programming languages is to write programs that have much stronger guarantees than regular typed programming languages. People also use these for theorem proving. Some new systems falling into this category include Agda and Epigram. One of the key characteristics of such languages is that they put a lot of effort into making it easier for programmers to define inductive families of datatypes.", "904" ], [ "A simple example is a vector, which depends upon natural numbers (defined inductively).\nRegarding which ones are still very active, I think they all are. Coq, Isabelle, Twelf, and PVS are used a lot in the programming languages community. Maude is used extensively in modelling systems. (Personally, I've used Coq and <PERSON>.)\nI'd never heard of a few of them. In the pdf you link to, there are links to the theorem provers. Some links are current, some are broken. <PERSON> now seems to be some sort of bearded wizard.\nThe theorem provers mentioned in “A Review of Theorem Provers” are:\n* ALF: subsumbed by ALFA, Coq, and Agda.\n* ALFA: seems to no longer unsupported.\n* COQ: actively supported.\n* MetaPRL: seems to be no longer supported.\n* NuPRL: actively supported.\n* HOL: actively supported.\n* PVS: actively supported.\n* Isabelle: actively supported.\n* TWELF: actively supported.\n* ACL2: actively supported.\n* INKA: seems to be no longer supported.\n* GANDALF: seems to be no longer supported.\n* TPS: may still be active, but has only a small following.\n* OTTER: may no longer be supported.\n* SETHEO: replaced by E-SETHEO, which seems to no longer be supported.\n* SPASS: seems to be still active.\n* EQP: seems to be no longer supported.\n* MAUDE: very actively supported.\n* OMEGA: seems to be no longer supported.\n* Mizar: actively supported.\nThere are undoubtedly many new automated theorem provers that have not been mentioned in this list.\nFor completeness, as suggested by <PERSON>, there are site archiving proofs made using various tools. For example:\n* The Archive of Formal Proofs for Isabelle\n* Formalized Mathematics for Mizar\n* The Constructive Coq Repository", "904" ], [ "As a prelude, there is some terminological confusion in your question. The issue is about a type variable occurring in a result type of a function. This is fairly minor. A more serious one is when you say \"my implementation happily infers the types of the above two functions to be ...\". What functions? Functions are terms like (in this case) $\\tt fun(x:T)e$ but the rule you quote is actually about function application, i.e. it applies to terms like $\\tt f(e)$. Either way, the two things you present are types not terms.", "915" ], [ "What you seem to want to say is: given a function $\\mathtt{f}\\in\\tt All(X)()\\to X$, the expression $\\tt f()$ seems to have the inferred type $\\tt X$.\n$\\tt \\sigma \\in \\bigwedge \\overline{C} \\Downarrow R$ implies that $\\sigma$ is a map for all the variables in $\\tt R$ or else it wouldn't even make sense. Maybe it doesn't make sense, but we see that in the rule you listed the constraint generation step produces a $\\mathtt{\\bar X}/V$ constraint and the substitution algorithm will thus produce a $\\mathtt{\\bar X}/V$ substitution which, by definition, has a mapping for each type variable in $\\tt \\bar X$. I assume your confusion is that you look at the minimal substitution generating algorithm $\\sigma_{C\\tt R}$ at the bottom of page 11, note that in your second case, for example, the constraint generation step produces an empty set of constraints and thus the \"for each constraint\" iterates over an empty set producing a substitution with no mappings which presumably would act as the identity. However, this would violate the definition of an $\\mathtt{\\bar X}/V$ substitution. The detail here is the definition of the empty constraint set. At the beginning of section 3.3 on page 9 it states:\nThe empty $\\mathtt{\\bar X}/V$ constraint set, written $\\emptyset$, contains the trivial constraint $\\tt Bot <: X_\\mathit{i} <: Top$ for each variable $\\mathtt{X}_i$.\nSince the result type is covariant (in a top-level context), we'll get $\\tt Bot$ in those cases. In particular, given that $\\mathtt{f}\\in\\tt All(X)()\\to X$, the expression $\\tt f()$ will have the inferred type $\\tt Bot$. The produced substitution $\\sigma_{\\emptyset\\tt R}$ will map $\\tt X$ to $\\tt Bot$.", "915" ], [ "Direct answer to the question: yes, there are esoteric and highly impractical PLs based on $\\mu$-recursive functions (think Whitespace), but no practical programming language is based on $\\mu$-recursive functions due to valid reasons.\nGeneral recursive (i.e., $\\mu$-recursive) functions are significantly less expressive than lambda calculi. Thus, they make a poor foundation for programming languages. You are also not correct that the TM is the basis of imperative PLs: in reality, good imperative programming languages are much closer to $\\lambda$-calculus than they are to Turing machines.\nIn terms of computability, $\\mu$-recursive functions, Turing machine, and the untyped $\\lambda$-calculus are all equivalent. However, the untyped LC has good properties that none of the other two have. It is very simple (only 3 syntactic forms and 2 computational rules), is highly compositional, and can express programming constructs relatively easily. Moreover, equipped with a simple type system (e.g., System $F\\omega$ extended with $\\mathsf{fix}$), the $\\lambda$-calculus can be extremely expressive in that it can express many complex programming constructs easily, correctly and compositionally. You can also extend the $\\lambda$-calculus easily to include constructs that are not lambdas. None of the other computational models mentioned above give you those nice properties.\nThe <PERSON> machine is neither compositional nor universal (you need to have a TM for each problem). There are no concepts of \"functions\", \"variables\" or \"composition\". It is also not exactly true that TMs are the basis of imperative PLs - FWIW, imperative PLs are much, much closer to lambda calculi with control operators than to Turing machines. See <PERSON> \"A Correspondence Between ALGOL 60 and Church's Lambda-Notation\" for a detailed explanation. If you have programmed in Brainf**k (which actually implements a rather simple Turing machine), you will know that Turing machines are not a good idea for programming.\n$\\mu$-recursive functions are similar to TMs in this respect.", "904" ], [ "They are compositional, but not nearly as compositional as the LC. You also just can't encode useful programming constructs in $\\mu$-recursive functions. Moreover, the $\\mu$-recursive functions only compute over $\\mathbb{N}$, and to compute over anything else you'd need to encode your data into natural numbers using some sort of <PERSON> numbering, which is painful.\nSo, it is not a coincidence that most programming languages are somehow based off the $\\lambda$-calculus! The $\\lambda$-calculus has good properties: expressiveness, compositionality and extensibility, that other systems lack. However, Turing machines are good for studying computational complexity, and $\\mu$-recursive functions are good for studying the logical notion of computability. They both have outstanding properties that the $\\lambda$-calculus lacks, but in the field of programming $\\lambda$-calculus clearly wins.\nIn fact, there are many, many more Turing complete systems out there, but they lack any outstanding property whatsoever. Conway's Game of Life, LaTeX macros, and even (some claim) DNA are all Turing complete, but no one programs (i.e. do serious programming) with Conway or studies computational complexity using LaTeX macros. They simply lack good properties. Turing complete per se is nearly meaningless when it comes to programming.\nAlso, many non-Turing complete computational systems are very useful when it comes to programming. Regular expressions and yacc are not Turing complete, but they are extremely powerful in solving a certain class of problems. Coq is also not Turing complete, but it is incredibly powerful (it's actually considered much more expressive than its Turing complete cousin, OCaml). When it comes to programming, <PERSON> completeness is not the key, as many (close to) useless systems are uninterestingly Turing complete. You're not going to claim that Brainfk or Whitespace are more powerful programming languages than Coq, are you? An expressive foundation is the key to powerful programming languages, and that's why modern programming languages are almost always based on the $\\lambda$-calculus.", "904" ], [ "Given the \"programs as proofs\" isomorphism, how do we know that the program isn't lying?\nI've been studying constructive type theory (CTT) and one of the things that I'm not clear on is the proof part: Proving the correctness of a program in a form of a proof that's nothing but the program itself (Curry-Howard Correspondence)\nMost examples that I've seen in books (e.g., Type Theory and Functional Programming - Thomson and TaPL) show the \"proofs\" on $\\lambda$-abstractions and applications on terms (i.e., literally $a, b, e...$). The proofs seem to mostly rely on the type signatures of the functions, under the assumption that the function does what it claims. Not much is discussed about the \"how\" of the function's correctness.\nFor example, when writing a real program (e.g., in Haskell and other [pure] functional languages), the function under consideration could do any arbitrary computation and return a term of the correct type for the proof to go through (statically speaking). So how do we know that the program is computationally doing the \"right\" thing (dynamically speaking) and not just faking it to get past a proofing system?\nFrom what I understand, here's how things should go (and probably are, but I'm not sure if I'm right), crudely speaking:\n1. Given a program's specification in something like predicate logic we \"convert\" it into an equivalent \"typed representation\"\n2.", "330" ], [ "Using backward inference we substitute the \"functions\" with their appropriate values, which themselves could be other functions (i.e., we replace the functions with their computation rules, but I'm thinking more on the lines of replacing the function with its body, from a programming point of view, for the sake of argument. Assuming that they're \"returning\" the correct type this seems like a believable substitution)\n3. We continue doing #2 above till we hit primitive operations (again, crudely speaking) which we can trivially prove (or if not, maybe the proof is \"simple\" enough).\n4. Once we've hit all the \"axioms\" (or trivial proofs) along all the branches of backward inferences, we stop.\n5. QED\nTwo questions:\n* Is my understanding/intuition of \"how\" the proof of correctness works in CTT works correct? It looks like it won't be possible for the program to \"cheat\" this or can it?\n* And secondly, is this what proof assistants like <PERSON> help you prove/analyze (at a high level)?", "603" ], [ "Quite a lot of things can and have been formally verified with formal methods.\n1. Compilers. We want to prove that a compiler preserves the semantics of its source program. For example, if we write a int x = 3; x++; in C, we mean that. But the compiler might not produce correct assembly and machine code.\nIt is known to be difficult to debug compilers, so a bunch of people at INRIA, the French national lab for computer science, led by <PERSON>, decided to start from scratch and write a C compiler that is provably correct. Eventually, they produced CompCert, which has since been used commercially by companies like Airbus to compile important software.\nThere have also been certified compilers for other languages. One of such exists for ML (CakeML). I would not surprised to find more.\nNote: According to @BasileStarynkevitch, CompCert has been used for purposes related to aviation, but it is not sure if Airbus is using it to compile on-plane software as of June 2018. According to <PERSON> (via personal communication to Basile), last year Airbus was still considering this as a possibility. But at least it has been used for something.\n1. Operating system kernels. Operating system kernels are also hard to debug, and can be pretty nasty if there's a bug (it stops the entire machine!).", "904" ], [ "If you run into a OS kernel bug on a satellite, it wouldn't be a very good day for you. So, a bunch of researchers in Australia wrote an operational specification for an OS kernel. Then, they developed a kernel according to that specification and proved it free of bugs (e.g., deadlocks, livelocks, overflows...). Of course, the spec is assumed to be correct. That became the seL4 kernel.\nFor follow-up on this work, see HACMS (a project which developed a verified drone based on seL4) and CertiKOS (a project which developed a layered, POSIX, concurrent OS kernel).\n1. An example closer to us. Part of the control software running on the Paris Metro Line 14 is formally verified using the B-Method. Later, the B-Method was also used on Line 1 when it was automated. The French people really like formal methods!\nOf course, most software would be too costly to verify. I doubt anyone would want to fully verify a browser or a word processor, as they don't matter all that much (if they crash, just restart!). But if your software is running on an airplane or a train carrying a hundreds of people and tasked with operating the vehicle, it would be reasonable to want to verify that.\n<PERSON> logic and/or operational semantics per se might not be that useful in software development, but they are important theoretical and/or intellectual foundations of useful verification methods. Therefore, they're still important to have a sound grasp and understanding of those tools. I believe it wouldn't be an exaggeration to state that every software verification expert (or quasi-expert) has a good understanding of <PERSON> logic and operational semantics!", "81" ], [ "The word \"combinator\" has some connotations that you don't seem to be intending here and sometimes a stricter definition. Another term for the definition you gave is a closed term. The opposite is an open term. The programming language equivalent of an open term would be an expression referring to a variable that's simply not in scope. Not just not in the current scope, but not in any containing scopes either. Most languages simply don't allow this. We can model let expressions that locally bind a name with lambda abstraction and application. In particular, let x = E in B becomes $(\\lambda x.B)E$. The top-level, or global, scope can then be thought of conceptually as just a short-hand for wrapping your program in a bunch of let expressions. The point being, even global names are bound.", "904" ], [ "The analogy to an open term, in this context, would be a term with one or more completely undefined variables in it.\nNow clearly a closed term is self-contained which is useful. Further, for the purposes of computation, we never need to consider anything other than closed terms (assuming we start with nothing but closed terms). More precisely, for computation we usually care about weak (head) normal form which is the normal form for call-by-value(/name) reduction. An important aspect of these reduction strategies is they never reduce under a lambda. As such, any instance of $\\beta$-reduction using these reduction strategies will only involve closed terms and will only ever produce a closed term assuming the initial term was closed. So, for the purposes of programming and computation closed terms are all that matters. Optimizing compilers, though, manipulate programs and often do perform reduction under a lambda and as such do need to deal with open terms. Proof assistants also need to deal with open terms as they usually need to reduce to normal form to compare lambda terms for equality. (Actually, they can often avoid going all the way to normal form.)\nThe focus on \"combinators\" isn't driven by software engineering concerns. It's simply a fact that for many purposes you only need to consider closed terms. The theory and formal manipulation of open terms is quite a bit hairier than for closed terms, so it is useful to limit to closed terms when possible.", "904" ], [ "Proof of Subject-Expansion Theorem in Type Theory\nI am beginning to study type theory, using <PERSON>'s book \"Basic Simple Type Theory\", and I would like your help in the proof of a theorem. I would like to know whether my idea for how to prove the theorem is correct or not and if there are better/other ways to do it.\nWhile learning about subject reduction and expansion I came across the following theorem:\n2C2. Subject Expansion Theorem If $\\Gamma \\vdash_{\\lambda} Q: \\tau$ and $P \\vartriangleright_{\\beta} Q$ by non-duplicating and non-cancelling contractions, then $\\Gamma \\vdash_{\\lambda} P: \\tau$.\nThe author leaves the proof as an exercise and I am trying to do it. Here's my idea:\nFirst, I wrote that it's sufficient to prove the theorem for a $\\beta$-contraction (represented by $\\vartriangleright_{1\\beta}$) since a $\\beta$-reduction (represented by $\\vartriangleright_{\\beta}$) is simply zero or more steps of $\\beta$-contraction.\nNext, I noticed that if $P \\vartriangleright_{1\\beta} Q$ then $P \\equiv (\\lambda x.M)N$ and $Q \\equiv [N/x] M$. I also noticed that there must be exactly one occurrence of $x$ free in $M$, as the $\\beta$ contraction is non-duplicating and non-canceling. Then, I tried a proof by induction on $|P|$. There are 3 cases:\nCase 1: $M$ is a variable. In this case, since the contraction is non-duplicating and non-canceling, we must have $M \\equiv x$. Then, $P \\equiv (\\lambda x.x)N$ and $Q \\equiv N$. After standard calculations, I was able to derive the type of $P$ as being $\\tau$.\nCase 2: $M$ is an abstraction. In this case $P \\equiv (\\lambda x. \\lambda y.", "875" ], [ "M_1)N$. Then, $Q \\equiv [N/x] (\\lambda y. M_1)$. My idea here is to use the induction hypothesis to say that $(\\lambda x. M_1)N$ and $[N/x]M_1$ must have the same type $\\tau_1$ and from there perform calculations to conclude that $P$ and $Q$ must have the same type $\\tau$.\nCase 3: $M$ is an application. In this case $P \\equiv (\\lambda x. M_1 M_2)N$. There will only be one free occurrence of $x$ in $(M_1 \\ M_2)$ and we consider only the case of this free occurrence happening in $M_1$. (because the other case is analogous). Then, $Q \\equiv [N/x] (M_1 \\ M_2) = (([N/x] M_1) \\ ([N/x] M_2)) = (([N/x] M_1) \\ M_2)$. My idea is to use the induction hypothesis to say that $(\\lambda x. M_1) N$ and $[N/x] M_1$ must have the same type $\\tau_1$ and then performe calculations to prove that $P$ and $Q$ must have the same type $\\tau$.\nIs my approach to the problem correct? Are there better/other ways to proceed?\nThanks in advance.", "875" ] ]

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[ [ "Stuffed Toys - Alphabet Gang Using Recycled Tshirts\nIntroduction: Stuffed Toys - Alphabet Gang Using Recycled Tshirts\nWhat can you do with all the T-Shirts that no one wants to wear anymore? I turned mine into a Stuffed Toy- My Alphabet Gang. Since they are cotton and is super soft, making it a perfect toy for younger kids. You can make the whole 26 letters set or choose alphabets of your choice. The kids can learn their alphabets or learn to spell. And it is washable.\nJoin me on another super easy and fun project. Turning something forgotten into something fun!\nSupplies\n1-Any Colored cotton T-shirts for the alphabets.\n2-White and Black Tshirts for the eyes ( optional).\n3-Printed Fonts on a paper\n4-Polyester fiber fillings for stuffing\n5-Needle and white thread\n6-Bobby pins\n7-Measuring tape / ruler\n8-Thin cardboard\n9-Glue gun or fabric glue\nSewing machine\nScissors\nStep 1: Prepping\nFind a font that you like. Preferably one with a thicker stroke. It is easier to sew something that is bigger vs a thinner or smaller design.\n1-Print it to the size you like. I used 650 font size on a A4 paper.\n2-Cut out the font. Turn your Tshirt inside out.\n3-Pinned the design onto the Tshirt.\n4-Follow the font design and cut the Tshirt. Be careful, as you are cutting both layers. Give yourself generous allowance seam. I gave myself about ½ - 3/4 inch width. Sewing with stretchy cotton can be tricky. Having more seam allowance makes it more forgiving of not running out of seam width while sewing.\n5-When you are stitching both design pieces together, remember to leave a section open to turn the right side of the material back to the front. Look at my green letter T, I left a small section the top unsewn.\nThis opening also allows you to stuff your stuffing for your stuffed toy.\nStep 2: Stuffing\n1- After stitching the letter together, trim off excess seam and thread.\n2- Make a slit ( a straight small cut) on corners and turns section.", "316" ], [ "This will make it easier to flip the right side back out.\n3- Start stuffing the letter and finish it with simple whip stich. **Note - Begin the whip stitch by tying a knot in the end of your thread and poke from between the two pieces. This way the knot will be hidden between the two pieces of fabric. Next, poke the needle up through both layers of fabric so the needle and thread come up in almost the same place as in step 1. Pull snugly and start stitching in a slight angle. repeat till you are done with the section you wanted to seal off.\nStep 3: Making the Eyes\nTo make the eyes ( optional) for your alphabets, I used white and black Tshirts.\n1- for larger circle, I can draw on the fabric. Cut out 2 white circles with 2 inches diameter. Draw a smaller circle to guide you with stitching.\n2- for smaller circle and dark colored fabric, I cut out ½ inch diameter circle from the card board and then use it as a guide to cut 2 circles on the black tshirt. Using a cardboard makes it easier when you are cutting small designs.\n3-Use your thread and needle, sew a running stitch ( a basic stitch that goes in and under and in and under on the fabric). I stitched on the smaller circle I drew onto the fabric. It is to help me stitch it more evenly.\n4-Once you have all the stitches done, pull the thread snugly, you can see the seams gathered together to form a ball. Open it back slightly to place a small portion of stuffing inside. Then pull the thread together. Finished with a knot. Do not cut of the thread and needle, we will need it to stitch the eyes onto the alphabet.\n5-Turn the white ball over and glue the black circle on it. The placement of the black circle will give you different characteristics of the finished alphabet.\nStep 4: Finishing the Alphabet\n1-Lastly, stitch the eyes to the alphabet.\nNow if you have enough letters, you can use it to form a word. I used my 3 letters to form the word Mat.", "316" ], [ "Recycled Shirt to a Tissue Box Holder\nIntroduction: Recycled Shirt to a Tissue Box Holder\nUse your worn out or torn button down shirt and make it into a cool tissue box. Hang it in the car or a convenient spot to access the tissue.\nThis is a simple and fast project. You can use a sewing machine to stitch the material together or use a fabric glue to glue the seams together.\nSupplies\n1- a shirt\n2- scissor\n3- a sewing machine or a glue gun or fabric glue\n4-Straight ruler\n5-pen\n6-box of tissue\n7- needle and thread\n8- button ( will be from the shirt)\n9- Velcro if you don’t want to see a button.\nStep 1: Measurements\nThe way I measure if I have enough material for my project is simple. It’s like wrapping a present.\nI placed the box on the shirt I am using.\nHere is a size 10 youth shirt. We are using the front of the shirt with the buttons. That helps to reduce the amount of sewing or cutting.\nIf the material is sufficient to cover the box with overlaps, then the shirt is suitable.\nStep 2: Cutting\nNext , cut out the rectangular shape cloth from the shirt.\nStep 3: Assemble Before Stitching\nBefore we stitch the pieces together, we will check how much extra material we have.\nWe want the cover to be snug with a little room but not too loose.\nPlace the front of the shirt over tissue box. Making sure the opening of the tissue box lined up with the shirt /button flap. Centered it.\nTurn it over . Check that the center of the box is still aligned with the shirt flap.\nBring the 2 flaps of materials over the back of the box.\nUse a Bobby pin to hold the flaps together. This will show you where you should be stitching or gluing the seams.\nRemove the tissue box carefully.\nStep 4: Stitching / Gluing\nIf you don’t own a sewing machine, you can use any fabric glue to stick the seams together. Just glue the parts that show me stitching with a sewing machine.\n1- make sure the button ( opening) aligned ( photo 1) with the back seam that is held together with Bobby pins. (Photo 2)\n2- stitch the 2 flaps held together by the Bobby pins ( Photo 3)\nStep 5: Stitching/ Gluing 2\nNext we will stitch both ends and it will create a gusset.\n1- take one end of the project and stitch / glue them together.", "748" ], [ "It will look like a sack. There is the opening on the other end.\n2- there are 2 triangle shapes formed where you stitched the seams. We will stitch it to form\nthe gusset so it will fit the tissue box snuggly\nStep 6: Stitching the Gussets\n1- Place the tissue box into the cover you just made, push it to the end. You will see there are 2 triangle shaped pieces.\n2- fold the triangle inwards . Use a Bobby pin to pin it down. Next use a thread and needle to stitch it together. Or use the glue to glue it.\n3- repeat on the other triangle.\n4- when you are done. Take out the tissue box and sew the other end together ( repeat step 5 & 6)\nStep 7: Almost Done\nOnce both ends are stitched together, you will flip the cover back to inside is in.\nNow your tissue cover is complete as it is. Put in a box of tissue.\nIf you want to make it as a hanging tissue box cover, you will do the next step.\nStep 8: Making the Straps for Hanging\nFind more material scraps to make the straps.\nFold in the edge of the material to prevent the material from fraying. Press it down to make a crease.\nUse Bobby pins to hold the folds down.\nThen stitch or glue both edges together.\nStep 9: Attached the Strap\nStitch one end of the strap to one end of the tissue cover. This end should be closer to button hole that is closer to end.\nStitch the button on to the other end of the strap. You can use a Velcro to replace this step if you don’t want to use the button.\nTo fasten the strap to a spot you like, unbutton and wrap the strap and then button it.\nStep 10: Tissue Box Holder for the Car\nI wrapped the strap around the metal pole under the front passenger head rest.", "748" ], [ "Flowers From Recycled Material\nIntroduction: Flowers From Recycled Material\nWhen you can’t donate a piece of clothing because it is slightly damaged. Or you have lots of scraps left from other project, don’t throw them away. You can make it into a pretty flower.\nHere I turned some scraps of material into a ponytail holder.\nSupplies\n1-Any unwanted shirts or scraps of textile\n2-Ruler\n3-Round shaped objects to help you draw circles (2 -4 inches in diameter) (½ to 1 ¼ diameter for smaller circles)\n4-Pair of scissors\n5-Needle and thread\n6-A piece of cardboard\n7-Some polyester stuffing or yarn or cotton balls\n8a-glue gun ( optional) Or 8b- any other glue for fabric\n9-A plastic mat ( to protect your table when you use the glue gun).\nStep 1: Cutting the Pattern for the Flowers\nHere I use a 2 ¼ diameter circle for the petals and 1 ¼ diameter circle for the center of the flower. You can use any size you like. It depends on the amount of material scraps you have.\n1. Trace the circles. You need 5 large and 2 small.\n2. After tracing, cut the circles as closely to the line as you can.\nStep 2: Cutting the Cardboard\nWe use a cardboard ( any thickness you like) to support the center of the flower. We found a 0.02 mm thick instruction card.\n1. Cut out 2 pieces of ½ inch diameter circles.\nStep 3: Making the Petals\n1. Take 1 large circle, fold it into half and then into quarters. Rub over the folds. This is to get a crease on the material.\n2. Bring the opening of the material to face you, so that you can see a cross design as shown in the picture.\n3. Add the stuffing.\n4. Get your needle and thread and do a running stitch.\n**Note - a running stitch is a simple stitch by passing the needle in and out of the fabric at a regular distance.\n5. At the end of the material, pull the thread. The opening of the petal will closed up.\n6. Repeat the same steps for the next 5 petals.\nStep 4: Stitching the Petals Together\nWhen you have 5 petals ready, connect the last petals to the first petals by sticking it together.\nStep 5: Make the Center of the Flower\n1. Take the card board circle. Add a small dab of glue ( fiber glue or glue gun)\n2.", "294" ], [ "Stick a small amount of stuffing onto the cardboard.\n3. Place the smaller cloth circle on top of the stuffing.\n4. Turn the project over, and do a running stitch along the edge of the cloth circle.\n5. When you reach the end, just pull the thread together and you will create a pouch and enclose the stuffing.\n6. Do a few stitches to close the opening. Make a knot and cut off the thread\n7. Place the center of the flower to the position you like. You can stitch the center to the flower petals or use the glue to stick them together.\nStep 6: Making the Baking for the Flower\n1.Take the remaining pieces of small circle ( cloth and card board).\n2.Place some glue on the center of one side of the cardboard. Glue the cloth to it.\n3.Turn it around and glue the edges of the cloth over the cardboard.\n4. When you reached the last portion to fold the cloth over, make a small slit on the cloth so you can get a nicer finish.\n5. Place more glue on the side with the card board still showing and then glue to the back of the flower.\n6. Your fiber flower is done.\nStep 7: Assembling\nTake a small scrap of material of your choice. Can be a ribbon or same material. I have lots of extra scraps left.\n1. Fold the edges to make it neater and then glued the folds together.\n2. Glued the ponytail tie/band to the scrap of material you are using.\n3. Glue the flat side of it to the back of the flower.\n4. Let it dry. You have your own unique ponytail tie now.\nStep 8: Finished Product\nI used a glue gun to help stick my flowers to other material . You are free to choose whatever type of glue you have handy.\nI glued my to a ponytail band / tie. And also to a hook to hook it onto bags.", "694" ], [ "Handmade Embroidery on T-Shirt\nIntroduction: Handmade Embroidery on T-Shirt\nPersonally I enjoy purchasing plain T-shirts to hand embroider. I always receive appreciation and admiration while in stores for the great hand work. At times people mistake the work to be machine made. I bought this white T-shirt for a while now and was thinking of some embroidery work. I couldn't pick any design easily so left it to stay for a while until I find something that pleases my eyes.\nIn the last week, I stumbled upon this T-shirt sitting in the corner of my wardrobe waiting to be picked-up for designing. I then decided to keep it simple.\nI have upon just two embroidery stitches. 1. Chain Stitch and 2. Fishbone stitch\nIn this simple and short project I will show you the details on how to make a T-shirt just as this one.\nSupplies\n1. T-shirt of your size (white)\n2. Embroidery needle\n3. Embroidery threads (colors of your choice)\n4.", "316" ], [ "Embroidery hoop\n5. Pencil to make the design\n6. Scissors\nStep 1: Make the Design on Cloth\nClamp the T-shirt on the Embroidery hoop. Freehand drawn the design on the T-shirt as the first step.\nStep 2: Chain Stitch Leaf\nIn this step, I inserted the thread from below (pic 1) and then inserted at a short distance as shown in pic 2. Then, turned the thread around the needle and pulled the needle (pic 3). This makes a small loop or a chain and hence the name 'chain stitch'. I then continued to embroider using this stitch on the leaf border one chain at a time and then completed the entire leaf until the last image shown.\nStep 3: Fishbone Stitch for the Center Line\nFishbone stitch was used to make the center leaf line. Started at the top and made a small stitch below. Then, inserted the needle on the left side and brought it up it to the end of the first stitch as shown in image 2. Continued to work until the end. That's all. The leaf is ready. Step by step I added the same leaf around the neck of the T-shirt.\nMy T-shirt is all ready to flaunt during my next meetup with my friends and share the design with them as well :-)", "694" ], [ "Mr. <PERSON>'s Teddy\nIntroduction: Mr. <PERSON>'s Teddy\nMr. <PERSON> has been a part of everyone's childhood. I loved watching Mr. <PERSON>, I enjoy it even now. The way he brings smile on countless faces without even uttering a word is admirable. I always wanted the teddy he carries around so I made the teddy with the materials I had at hand.\nSupplies\nA Brown piece of cloth\nChalk\nSewing machine\nThread\nNeedle\nCotton\nBlack socks\nBlack beads\nGlue\nScissors\nStep 1: Draw a Rough Sketch of Teddy on a Price of Brown Cloth\nTak a piece of brown cloth and fold it from between. Next draw the teddy on one side of the cloth using a piece of chalk.\nStep 2: Sewing\nSew along the drawn line using a sewing machine. Leave a side of the cloth unstitched in order to turn it inside out later.\nStep 3: Cutting and Turning Teddy Inside Out\nCut the cloth in a teddy shape one centimeter away from the stitches.", "879" ], [ "Now cut the edges near underarms, legs, neck and ears so that it doesn't curl up on turning it inside out.Then turn it inside out through the opening.\nStep 4: Stuffing It With Cotton and Stitching the Opening\nFill the teddy with cotton through the opening. Stuff it well. After that, stitch the opening using a needle and a brown thread from outside. Make sure to give it small stitches so that it is not visible from the outside. Big stitches might ruin the look of the teddy.\nStep 5: Making Teddy's Face\nTake a pair or black beads or button, whatever you have at hand and use it to make it's eyes. Stick the beads using glue. Next, to make it's nose, take a black socks, draw an oval shaped nose on the socks using a chalk. Now, cut the oval shape with scissor and stick it on the teddy's face using glue. In the end to highlight it's nose use a whitener. And our teddy is ready!!\nYou can make any character or stuff toy🧸using with different colored cloth using this method. Do try this in your free time💕.", "879" ], [ "Reversible Fleece Face Mask\nIntroduction: Reversible Fleece Face Mask\nIn Covid times, it is necessary for us to wear face masks at all times while in public. This face mask is made of fleece for the winter season and is reversible giving you a two for one. Some people like to match face masks with their apparel. I made this face mask with a solid on one side and a printed pattern on the other side.\nSupplies\nFleece: ¼ yard of a solid fleece and ¼ yard of a printed pattern fleece OR If you have scrap fleece, then cut a total of 4 pieces 8” square – 2 squares of the solid and 2 squares of the printed pattern.\nElastic: 2 - 6.5” pieces for women OR 2 – 8” pieces for men.\nThread: select color that matches your fleece\nTape Measure\nScissors\nPins\nSewing Machine\nIroning Board and Iron\nPrinter Paper: 1 sheet to make the pattern.\nPencil or Pen\nStep 1: Make Your Pattern\n1. On the straight edge of the printer paper, measure and mark 3.5” centered on the page.\n2. From the center point of the 3.5” straight edge, measure straight out 5.25” and made a mark. Also, make a mark at the 4.25” spot.\n3. From the 4.25” mark, you will draw a line from top to bottom that is 6.25” long centering it at 3 1/8” as shown in the picture.\n4. Looking at the picture, sketch out the curves from point to point as shown.\n5. Cut out the pattern and then fold it in half bring the top down to the bottom.\n6. Trim up the pattern so that it will be perfectly symmetrical.\nStep 2: Cutting Your Fabric\n1. With right sides together of the solid fabric, pin your pattern so the 3.5” line is placed on the grain of the fabric.\n2. Cut fabric 3/8” around the pattern to allow for the seam.\n3. Repeat this for the printed fabric.\n4.", "673" ], [ "When finished cutting, you will have 2 solid pieces and 2 printed pieces of fleece.\nStep 3: Sewing Curve on Each Piece\n1. With right sides together, pin the large curve of both pieces (solid and printed) together and sew a 3/8” seam from top to bottom.\n2. Clip the curve close to the seam to allow for flexibility.\n3. With the iron press seam open on both pieces.\nStep 4: Sewing Solid to Printed Piece\n1. Pin both pieces together with right sides together matching up at the seams.\n2. Sew the top piece, then sew the bottom part of the mask leaving the small sides open.\n3. Turn face mask right side out and shape the mask by smoothing out fabric seams.\n4. Press seams with an iron to keep its shape.\nStep 5: Sewing in the Elastic\n1. On each open end, turn under ½” and press again with the iron.\n2. Cut elastic (6.5\" for women, 8\" for men) and pin to both side ends with a ½” of elastic inserted inward. Do this for both sides keeping the elastic untwisted and the same for each side.\n3. Sew across both ends and backstitch from start to finish for strength.\n4. Press seams. Your face mask is done!\nStep 6: Finished Project\nFace mask is reversible, warm, and comfy. And of course, it should be washed before flipping it to the other side.", "316" ], [ "Stuffed Balloon Animal Toy\nIntroduction: Stuffed Balloon Animal Toy\nThis stuffed toy is incredibly simple to make and can be made into any animal you desire, just like real balloon animals. You will need a long and narrow piece of fabric, you can use up any leftover fabric. For stuffing, you can buy special toy stuffing or recycle old pillows. Aside from that you only need a ruler, scissors, needle and thread or fabric glue.\nStep 1: Scale Up or Down\nTo make the same animal, you will need 160cm long and 17cm wide fabric (not including 1cm borders for stitches). This is a formula to calculate how wide your piece of fabric should be if you have different length of fabric, you can scale up or down. You can also change the width completely and make a thinner looking animal. I wanted mine to be thick and cuddly, so I used a wider piece of fabric.\nStep 2: Make a Tube\nI'm using recycled skirt material, 25cm wide and 160cm long. I used black thread to show the stitching, but ideally you should use a matching thread.\nFold the fabric in half (inside out) and use a ruler to mark 8.5cm border through the entire length. Use pins or extra needles to secure it.", "673" ], [ "Stitch it with a sewing machine, needle and thread or fabric glue. Cut off any excess fabric. Turn the tube inside out.\nStep 3: Stitch One End\nUse a runner stitch to stitch one end, leave about 1cm excess fabric, so it looks like a balloon mouth piece. Tighten the stitches to close the end of the tube and run the needle through the fabric to secure it. Make a loop of you want the segments to be more pronounced.\nStep 4: Fill the Tube\nRoll the tube like a very long stocking and fill with stuffing. I'm making 12cm segments for all legs and the abdomen, slightly shorter segments for the tail, neck and mouth and extra small for ears. Once your first segment is filled, shape it and move it around so it's smooth, not lumpy. Separate the segment by making a loop, tighten it and secure the thread. Continue for all segments.\nSequence should be like this: tail, back leg, back leg, abdomen, front leg, front leg, neck, ear, ear, mouth.\nStep 5: Fill All Segments\nStep 6: Assemble the Animal\nOnce your animal sausage is made, assemble it piece by piece and use thread and needle to attach appropriate segments to each other. Maneuver the pieces so the seam is hidden out of view.\nStep 7: Connect the Joints\nCorrect the positions of all segments once the animal is assembled, to make sure all joints are securely stitched and the toy can stand on its own.\nStep 8: Finished", "879" ], [ "Bear Pocket With Zipper\nIntroduction: Bear Pocket With Zipper\nI've been wanting to do this project for a while but never had a reason to do it.\nThis project is great for little kids, since they love stuffed animals and they also like to keep and hide little thing.\nSupplies\n* stuffed animal\n* fabric\n* zipper\n* thread\n* needle\n* sewing pins\n* seam ripper\n* scissors\nStep 1: Make an Opening\nusing a seam ripper or scissors, cut open an opening in the back of the stuffed animal. Then un-stuff some of the stuffing.\nStep 2: Cut Out Fabric\nCut out two pieces of fabric for the inside, I sketched a round rectangle that was about 6 x 5 in. but I recommend making something a little bit bigger, if you'd like to keep more things inside of it.", "316" ], [ "I also marked on the wrong side of the fabric where the zipper would go.\nStep 3: Shorten the Zipper\nI didn't have a zipper that was an appropriate size so I shortened a zipper that I already had. To shorten the zipper double thread your needle and loop the thread around the teeth of the zipper so that it makes a barrier. I also created a barrier at the top to prevent from the slider coming off.\nStep 4: Sew Zipper On\nPin the bottom side of the zipper onto the good side of the fabric, then sew it together. Remember to change your presser foot to a zipper foot before you begin to sew.\nThen repeat this step for the other piece of fabric, when you pin the other piece on, the sipper should be sort of sandwiched between the two pieces.\nStep 5: Pin and Sew\npin the two fabric pieces together and then sew them together to make the pocket.\nStep 6: Size Check and Pin\nDo a loose size check to make sure the pocket will fit comfortably inside the stuffed animal, then pin the pocket to the sides of the opening.\nStep 7: Sew in the Pouch\nOnce the pocket is pinned in, sew it into the bear, the best way to do this is to hand stitch it.\nStep 8: Finish\nYou are now done!", "455" ] ]

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[ [ "What benefit does the brain have on computers in a human brain computer\nThe concept of brain computer implants assumes that there's some net positive for either a machine or the brain when it comes to calculating or computing things. Usually there is a focus on what the computer can do for the human brain, but this takes the reverse. Essentially what exactly can the human brain do for a computer to make it run better or more efficiently.\nOn a conceptual level would a brain be able to expand the set of problems that a computer can solve (P-NP), help resolve things like deadlocks, thread starvation, short circuiting based on visual patterns (image processing), act as a shoe in to solve things like segfaults/access out of bounds errors, stop a program from completely crashing based on bad input or outputs, break out of infinite/bad loops, or counter things like adversarial inputs for networks by automatically filtering bad inputs out. Essentially working with the compiler/interpreter to reduce errors and improve processing time.\nThe question comes down to, what benefit does a human brain have for a computer when the two are combined.\nOne situation I can see is a brain greatly aiding a computer is in verifying NLP confidence values when running analysis on a sentence. Essentially a program is using something like the <PERSON> algorithm to test how correct a certain sentence or conversation classification is.", "634" ], [ "The human brain is better when it comes to language understanding because of things like cultural influence/grammar and will be able to aid in creating a better confidence of sentence classification. In this case the brain isn't doing any actual calculations, rather it is verifying a given solution. The major aftereffects are that it would help improve future classification accuracy by updating training sets or values. Without human verification a model could continually classify sentences wrong if it's never corrected.\nAll that said, I'm not sure if this is the place to ask the question. There doesn't seem to be a cognitive sciences stack exchange, and this doesn't really fit the bill for AI SE. If there is somewhere else better suited for this question, please let me know.", "57" ], [ "Conversational goal of a conscious talking machine\nOne Artificial Intelligence tech giant has created a bot much like Alexa or Siri that talks to humans, takes notes, listens to everything and communicates with external sources when instructed by the owner. However, humans mostly use the bot as an answering machine that answers to the questions by remembering and correlating whatever it has ever heard (including statements made in the room or over phone/chat/mail that was not intended to the bot). However, it is concluded that the bot is not conscious because it has no will to interact. It is triggered by a question that solves a computational problem and represents the solutions as an answer.\nNow there is a plan to make it more like conscious. The bot will not only answer questions but will respond to statements just like another human companion. But the problem is what would be the conversation goal for the bot? For example \"I've got a back pain\" will fetch different responses like\n* \"Protect your back, don't let anyone hurt it\" (friendly sarcasm)\n* \"Do some exercise\" (clinical suggestion)\n* \"Don't sit on a chair for long\" (popular suggestion)\n* \"Since when? How often ?\" (question)\n* \"Then don't go to office today\" (contextual suggestion)\n* \"Because you don't listen to me\" (self-interest)\n* \"So, what I am supposed to do ?\" (Ignorance)\nWe may get any of these responses from humans who have different role of attachment thus different conversational goal which may even be spatiotemporal.\nWithout a conversational goal, it cannot respond to the non-question statements. The question is what will be the role of the bot and what are the factors that will influence it to decide one conversation goal over the other?\nAssuming the bot can only listen to spoken human languages, it cannot see, smell, feel anything on its skin. It is a creature with an ear and brain.\nI understand that the question is too broad. motivation is unclear. It must be motivated in a way that progresses its survivability conditions. However, the survival of the bot is not defined.\nIn the film, Tau on the other hand survivability is defined as imagination. The bot creates a symphony and tries to hide its creation from possible destruction.", "64" ], [ "The bot is curious because as it gains more knowledge it gets more element to put in its symphony. The bot obeys because there is a punishment mechanism that erases part of its acquired knowledge.\nIn the film Automata, the definition of survival and self is very similar to humans.\nAll these characters require a lot of sensory organs to have human-like perception. However, if an AI has only an ear and a brain it will have a different universe.\nI think in human society the universe is initially small and full of unicorn and dragons. The assumptions are generalized through new observations. The adaptive generalization model expands the universe. There is a possibility that the local universe is what the hot considers as self. And tries to protect it and thus survives. So a future AI could behave arrogant ignorant and disobedient when putting in a different space where the stereotypes of the local universe are not obeyed. It may even require counseling when ownership is transferred. So it may happen that a hypothetical future AI will behave as too conservative in its childhood. Bit as it matures its conservatism persist but its universe expands.\nBut this is one social interaction model. I suppose there must be many. I'd like to hear about the other models also.", "64" ], [ "If you are looking at this from a programming point of view, most of the software would be functions that make it so the golem doesn't get itself killed and can function in society. Go through an average day and think about how much information you process subconsciously. Just sticking to basic axioms and information consider the following:\n* Do not walk into the ditch.\n* Walk on the right side of the road.\n* Stop at red lights.\n* This animal is a pig.\n* The city map is laid out as follows.\n* Do not throw children out of your way while walking.\n* Ring doorbell and wait before entering.\n* The three laws of robotics.\nThe final list would be exhaustive and we still haven't given the golem the ability to do anything useful yet.\nYou could speed up golem creation by having some method to quickly dump the needed base information into the golem, but perhaps there isn't much room (memory or HD space equivalent) left for it to do anything terribly complicated. So tasks have to be simple, which by definition puts golems into the background of the story.\nOr maybe there is plenty of room for additional instructions, but that opens the door to golem sentience which almost always has negative consequences.\nSmaller, man sized golems could be incredibly useful, but still limited enough to keep them in the background. Examples follow:\nFarming with golems may require a lot of oversight. Okay golems, go plow the field.", "209" ], [ "Now pick out any rocks over 3\". Now plant 3 seeds every 12\". Now go back in the shed.\nA golem could serve food at a highly scripted formal dinner, but it would probably be a terrible cook as it couldn't tell the doneness of meat or whether the soup needed more salt. A golem waiter would also be useless at the local Applebee's as everyone wants their food prepared slightly differently and there is no way the golem could keep track of that.\nA golem could deliver a letter to a specific address, but it has no idea whether the person receiving the letter is Count <PERSON>, his butler, his brother, his arch enemy, or mischievous street urchin. Maybe all it can do is put it into a specially marked mail box and ring a bell indicating a letter has arrived.\nGolems in the army may be great at moving supplies, cutting down trees, or building simple structures. But they would be useless in combat as they are incapable of conceiving of any tactics beyond walk straight and punch the guys in the blue uniforms.\nFrom a narrative point of view, think of golems as magical pieces of farm equipment, machine tools, or roombas. I think you could put them everywhere and they'll still just stay in the background of the story.", "164" ], [ "I can think of three ways that the humans might be able to communicate with each other without the superior AI catching on to it.\nPoetry\nAs mentioned in the question, an artificial intelligence, though it can mimic the analysis or prose and artful devices, only a human can really appreciate the ideas and concepts captured by a poem. Note that the use of a poem would not reveal messages in plain sight but use literary devices to convey the idea rather than exact phrasing.\nAdvantages\nThis seems like a better way for humans to communicate their feelings about situations and their love for each other (maybe?). This also is easy to learn and pickup, and even with the AI's massive database of poetry, even with the ability to add new intercepted poems, it would not become easy to break.\nDisadvantages\nCommunication has a lot to do with clarity and poems may not be the best pick for this, as different people can interpret the same poem with different results.\nCode with Virus\nPerhaps the only weakness to this AI is anything written/spoken must be passed through some interpreter/compiler, and this means the AI could be hacked.", "634" ], [ "As part of the developmental process of the AI, rather than \"escaping the code\" to prevent a virus from running, the AI was developed to \"skip over\" code that it recognizes contains a virus.\nWhen the humans discover this vulnerability, they develop loads of viruses and attempt to shut down the AI. Now, however, the remnants of the viruses they learned and tried to use against the AI, they use as the header of footer of messages with each other.\nAdvantages\nThis completely prevents the AI from reading and learning anything from a human's message.\nThe human's can communicate their message directly, as they know where to look for the actual message and ignore the header and footer code that is the virus.\nDisadvantages\nHumans have to remember and retain the code that is a virus and write it perfectly. This could also mean it takes longer to \"encode\" their message.\nIllogical Statements\nIn the second <PERSON> movie (featuring <PERSON>), <PERSON> and his brother communicate with a simple code that makes complete nonsense to an outsider. They flipped any all truthiness of statements (like: \"I love you\" becomes \"I hate you\").\nThe humans have found that using this coupled with using sentences like, \"this statement is false,\" utterly confuse the AI, resulting in the AI ignoring/failing to process their message.\nAdvantages\nOnce learned, the humans could get in a habit of this and learn to communicate quite easily.\nDisadvantages\nThe learning curve might be harder than I imagine.", "634" ], [ "What is a good location to publish my research in a public setting?\nFirst and foremost, I do believe this is an appropriate question for this site, but my apologies if not!\nMy class has been asked to publish our individual research papers in a public setting. In a minimum of one paragraph we are to present our work, be it in a relevant blog, as a Wikipedia entry related to our research topic, magazine, local newspaper, scholarship site, contest, and any other sort of relevant outlet.\nRegrettably, I'm entirely unsure of where I might go about posting something in regards to my own topic, and I was wondering if anyone had some ideas.\nBelow is my abstraction and thesis.\nThesis: Google has bettered the world by offering these within the implementation of its business model, contributions and innovations in computer products and services, and its attention to researching and developing products guided towards the future.\nAbstract: Google has been able to succeed in a market that had already been largely filled with competitors that had a considerable foothold by using advertising as a revenue generator. By innovating and making itself a sole provider of certain services, and offering alternatives to those already available that were of high quality, Google has been able to acquire an immense user base to fuel the effectiveness of its advertising platform, adwords. As a direct result of these things, Google has acted as a stellar example of what innovation can produce.", "340" ], [ "Increasing the standard quality of software available to the public for free, it has resulted in a raised standard of software, and that the mindset to innovate and bring something new and useful to the market can allow some corporations to thrive. Google[x] has implemented several future oriented projects, those being the Loon and Contact Lens projects. Google Loon and Google Contact Lens are examples of such, Google Loon to give internet access to people in rural and remote areas, provide service in coverage gaps, and to people after disasters, and Contact Lens to allow diabetics glucose monitoring in the form of a contact lens. Google’s products and services, researching and developing towards the future, and its business model have factors that have bettered the world.\nThank you!", "256" ], [ "The efficiency of a centralized system depends a lot on the speed with which information is transmitted and the processing potential of the central node, as well as the ability of the system to reshape itself in the event that the central node is removed. Generally this last achievement can be achieved through backups, in robots this could mean each robot has the potential to be a central node in the system, with biological organisms you'd likely see multiple competing hive's or otherwise have backup rulers that lie dormant till needed. You probably wouldn't want all of your eggs in one basket, but let's assume that's the only option for a centralized system, why might you choose that over a distributed system anyways?\nIn some circumstances centralized systems can be much more resource efficient and can be far superior in terms of decision making. With a decentralized system each node is only aware of it's surroundings and the signals of others, in a perfect centralized system the central node can be aware of all of it's drones surrounding's and can formulate complex strategies for the hive as a whole and execute them with perfect precision. A distributed network is a cheap knockoff of actual omnipresence and relies on signals propagating through a network of multiple intelligence's, but with enough processing power a centralized network can be the real thing. Essentially a single god like entity in total control, similar to plugging our nervous system into a nations infrastructure.", "198" ], [ "However, if information moves through the network too slowly or the central node can't process all the information efficiently, the system loses it's edge.\nBeyond that regard, it's also potentially a waste of resources to have every drone capable of thinking, it's especially wasteful if each drone is highly intelligent. If you assume that each drone is intelligent and communicates with every other drone the processing required will increase exponentially with each new drone, whereas a central system only has to send the information once for each drone, then send a response. A caste system addresses this somewhat as a hybrid system, but is still not as ideal as having a mind capable of correlating all the information of the hive at a quick pace. If it's instead a simpler form of communication that creates emergent intelligence, that could be more resource efficient, but is not as likely to manifest in the same level of intelligence, nor be as adaptable as a conscious entity.\nGiven very fast information processing, a centralized network can get away with using less resources per drone and less processing per drone by potentially an exponential amount, by keeping the communication at a linear rate per drone. This allows for further expansion of the hive. So if a hive is primarily concerned with growth, centralization probably allows for the greatest growth per unit of resources until the distance become too great for rapid communication. So the answer is that it's only the best option when you have the necessary processing capabilities and a means to send information almost as fast as the nervous system because omnipresence and super intelligence is a very powerful combination that might outweigh the risks.", "198" ], [ "Develop wings from display structures\nEvolutionary assumptions: As remarked in several answer evolution tends to be conservative. Every step in the evolutionary path needs to have a benefit over the parent creature otherwise it would loose the evolutionary race. So extra limbs that have no benefit until completely developed are evolutionary not viable. Also as noted nature will tend to energy efficient models, (dolphins and sharks which end up the same via completely different evolutionary paths) the fact that all larger animals mammals and dinosaurs alike had four legs suggest that this is the most efficient system. Remember that an extra set of legs might be beneficial for stability, but it also requires extra attention and more food to mantain.\nSo assuming that you don't care about how the creature is developed as long as it is feasible I would go for developing wings from display structures. A bit based on the comment of <PERSON> who pointed out the Draco lizards.\nEvolutionary path: An ape like tree dwelling creature that would have a set of dorsal fins for display (mating) or camouflage purposes should be able to evolve.", "429" ], [ "That bigger and more flexible dorsal fins would allow for easier attraction of a mate (or better camouflage) pushing the creature in the way of bigger and stronger dorsal fins. If the dorsal fins were situated in such a way that they could extend the range of jumps from tree to tree by increasing the gliding distance this would add the evolutionary push to slowly transform them into wings. With this evolutionary path you could create wings with a benefit for the creature every step of the way.\nCritical points: Whether you could create a gryphon this way would be questionable. Evolving from an ape like into something gryphon like is possible. Creating an animal with the size (and more importantly the weight) of a lion and be able to get enough energy for flight is very questionable for me. The largest flying animal was the Pterosuar, with an estimated weight of 250kg, but these were cold blooded, for comparison the wandering albatross (bird with largest wingspan) weighs 12 kg.\nAnother point against it is that as soon as you would have a gryphon due to evolution it would quickly tend to loose its shape for a more favourable aerodynamic shape. What might be a possibility is that a gryphon would mainly be a ground animal and only use flight to dive upon its pray from above after stalking it on the ground.", "671" ], [ "I am shooting a bit for the hip here to be honest, this answer is opinion, not a researched position, but...\nTo imply that a object, be it plant, animal, or inanimate object with the ability to self regulate their temperature has the ability to have implications on climate change on a global scale, at least a positive one, ignores the physical laws of entropy. That statement assumes that by positive effects means slowing of warming.\nEntropy as a basic rule of physics always increases. For this purpose, you can consider entropy to be the total energy in the system, with the energy of concern here being \"heat\". If a plant (or anything) raises its temperature, it also extracts that heat from somewhere else. If the surrounding environment is warmer, it can do that by simply absorbing heat, otherwise it does that by using other energy by chemical or physical processes.", "106" ], [ "These processes always are net zero in entropy or increase entropy thus increase total system energy usually seen as heat. The same is true when the plant needs to lower its temperature, it can exchange heat with surrounding environment or through physical or chemical means lower its temperature, but doing so will again either be net zero energy or an increase in energy/heat.\nPlants do have an almost exemption of this rule though, they grow, and in doing so the store some energy, temporarily taking some of that energy out of the equation. This stored energy, and thus heat, is then released when the plant dies and decays, is used as food, or when millions of years of the stored energy is used in the form of fossil fuels, again resulting in a net increase in total entropy in the system.\nPlants can and are used for localized climate moderation, but the contribution that would be applied to their ability to regulate their own temperature I would think is somewhere between insignificant and a slight negative in terms of slowing global warming. The more significant aspect is in areas like slowing ground heating of denuded areas, cleaning pollutants from the air, storing of energy for later use, and many other aspects of plant chemistry and relationship with its environment. For instance, the shade provided by a single tree I would guess outweighs any effect cause by temperature regulation of many trees. I would be happy to see any study to the contrary, but I do not see that as possible within the known laws of physics.", "106" ] ]

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[ [ "Convert Old Display Panel Into Sleek Monitor\nIntroduction: Convert Old Display Panel Into Sleek Monitor\nI’m a huge fan of retro gaming and it’s really been a long time playing any sort of games, So I was wondering if I can build a retro gaming setup with raspberry pi and an old display panel. But while building, the idea just spiralled out and I had other ideas to build the retro setup, which I will discuss in the future Instructable.\nSo, instead of shredding down all the work I did so far, I converted the old monitor into a thin-bezel secondary monitor. Already there are plenty of videos/articles around the internet explaining how to convert the LCD panel into a Monitor or a Tv. So we'll focus more on the design and making the display sleek. I think this would be a great project if you are just getting started to work with wood just like me.\nSupplies\nThis is the list of products that can help you do this project with ease\n(Affiliate Link)\n* 3d printer: https://amzn.to/3trVWKw\n* printer upgrades: https://amzn.to/3hbK3Ga\n* Black filament: https://amzn.to/3orgpiA\n* Glue gun:https://amzn.to/2WiuKUa\n* Screws: https://amzn.to/3vdF1zj\n* drill: https://amzn.to/3yYFA0S\n* jigsaw: https://amzn.to/3zweaRD\n* Isopropyl alcohol: https://amzn.to/3BdokHS\n* Black Spray paint: https://amzn.to/3z3Wxaf\n* V59 universal board / inverter / LVD cable: https://amzn.to/3J1e9YN\n* TV base stand: https://amzn.to/3otKnTi\nStep 1: LCD Panel\nI got this LCD panel from an old LG monitor that I borrowed from a friend. If you like you can also buy the same LCD panel directly from various vendors, but that doesn’t seem too exciting and it doesn’t do any justice for a DIY project so, I highly recommend getting a used monitor or a monitor with a broken display controller.\nThat’s right, I mentioned broken controller because in this build I will use a v59 universal driver board to control the LCD panel, by which we get a variety of options like HDMI, VGA, audio port , USB media, etc. To confirm if the driver is compatible with your LCD panel just look at the back, for the model number.", "33" ], [ "Which will help in confirming the compatibility with the universal driver. After confirming the compatibility, make sure to get an inverter as well, which will supply the power for the back light. If you like to buy the similar driver and the inverter I have given the link for both in the on the supply section.\nStep 2: Wood Working\nFor the rest of the construction I’m going to use a ¾ inch wood, which will act as the support, frame and the housing for the driver and inverter. Start with cutting the support frame with the same dimension as the LCD panel [Might vary depending on the display you have], to keep the footprint, small as possible. Then make a small cut out in the middle which will act as the housing for the electronics [Also depends on the size of the circuit you have].\nThen don't forget to drill a few holes in the bottom for the plastic stands which we’ll later include in the build.\nTo separate the LCD panel and the electronics between the cut out, I’m going to use this 3mm wood [from one of my old project] and make some slots and holes to pass through wires between the driver and the LCD panel.\nOnce you have placed everything in place and feels good move on to painting.\nStep 3: Painting\nFirst, start with masking the LCD panel with newspaper and painter's tape. In my case, I used insulation tape, which was a very bad idea because of the marking that was left on the LCD panel.\nI used black acrylic paint for the panel and the wooden frame.\n[Note: Be careful not to get the paint on the display]\nStep 4: Cleaning\nOnce the painting is done, remove the newspaper carefully without damaging the LCD panel. To remove the tape marking you can use the isopropyl alcohol to clean the surface.\nBut for the wooden frame and the 3mm wooden panel, cleaning might not be necessary because the LCD panel will concealed them.\nOnce you are done with cleaning, you can start the electronics assembly.", "996" ], [ "<PERSON> Voice Assistant Using Raspberry Pi Zero W\nIntroduction: <PERSON> Voice Assistant Using Raspberry Pi Zero W\nJust so you know, I’m a very big fan of marvel, and recently their new series LOKI is by far my most favorite series of all time. So, I thought it would be fun to make one of the characters come to life.\n<PERSON> <PERSON> is an AI character in Loki, who works for a fictional agency called Time variance authority which is controlled by <PERSON> the conqueror. Miss <PERSON> can do a lot of stuff in the series, she talks, interacts with other characters, and of course fetch data and information almost like Friday and <PERSON> in Iron man movies.\nSo, that’s what I exactly did.\nBut I did cheat (or let's say borrowed a lot) a lot to get to this point. So, Make sure to read the full instructions to build your own AI <PERSON>. Also, make sure to grab the supplies below to do the project with ease.\nSupplies\nThis are the list of products that can help you do this project with ease\n(Affiliate Link)\n* 3d printer : https://amzn.to/3trVWKw\n* printer upgrades : https://amzn.to/3hbK3Ga\n* Orange filament : https://amzn.to/3DbhpxG\n* Collar Mic : https://amzn.to/3kixsRx\n* Desktop speaker : https://amzn.to/2XR4wIT\n* raspberry pi zero w : https://amzn.to/3B9RkgD\n* sound card : https://amzn.to/3mlMlFo\n* OTG : https://amzn.to/3grDnTc\n* Female DC jack : https://amzn.to/3B2dvFp\n* 5v dc adapter : https://amzn.to/2UFLofA\n* Male Audio jack : https://amzn.to/3yfMnAS\n* Glue gun :https://amzn.to/2WiuKUa\nStep 1: Building Miss Minutes Enclosure\nUsually, I start with electronics and work my way up to building the enclosure but in this instructable, I'm going to approach this project a little differently. First I’m going to make the enclosure and then later fix the electronics within it.\nBefore I started modeling I tried searching if someone has done a similar project already and I found this amazing Miss Minutes clock project by a Thingiverse user PhilippHee. But unfortunately at the time of documenting the project page is down on Thingiverse, I will make sure to update the link once the page is back up.\nAnyway, I had downloaded the STL file a few weeks back. So, instead of me creating the project completely from scratch.", "354" ], [ "I edited and remixed his project for my need by using fusion 360. You can see the images above to see how the image was modified to meet the need for this project.\nStep 2: Multi-color 3D Printing\nOnce the STL file was ready, it was time to print. I took the model into Cura and sliced it. You can either use a single color to print and then paint the eyes and the outlines on top of it. Or change filaments while printing as I did.\nYou can check this link to see how to change the color while printing just using one nozzle.\nThe above images are reference images where you need to pause to change the color of the filament.\n* Initial - Orange filament\n* First change - Black Filament\n* Second change - White Filament\n* Third change - Black Filament\nTo print this model I used PLA and a larger nozzle with a diameter of 0.6mm and a layer height of 0.4mm for faster printing. It approximately took 9 hours for the complete print for this model, during the print I had to change the filament 3 times. But still, I managed to mess it up by not selecting the proper layer height to change the color.\nAnyway, this gave an opportunity to explain, how you could change the colour if you had not used the multi-color 3d printing technique.\nStep 3: Post Processing the 3D Print\nOnce it’s printed I spent few minutes carefully removing the support materials.\nNote: Don't make any large motions while removing the support material, the thickness of the face is very small and can break quite easily.\nYou can just stop here and continue with the rest of the instructable but for me, the color wasn't that appealing so I fixed the color. I used a black marker for the outline and a whitener for the eyes.", "646" ], [ "PALPi Retro Game Console\nIntroduction: PALPi Retro Game Console\nHey everyone what's up!\nSo this is my RecalBox based handheld gaming console aka the PALPi\nIts name is PALPi because it uses a composite PAL Display.\nWhen I was little I love playing games like Pokemon, contra, super Mario, Final Fantasy, and other games mostly on Gameboy advance and that game console that we hooked up with our CRT TVs to run great old stuff.\nWell, nowadays we can just download the retro game ROM and open it up in an emulator and play that game on our laptop and mobile devices.\nBut as a maker, I wanted to do something different, so I prepared this handheld retro gaming console setup which is powered by a Raspberry pi zero, the OS that I'm using here is the Recalbox os. It's a decent Emulator OS that also comes with few preloaded games.\nThis whole setup is powered by an IP5306 IC which is a 5V 2A Constant Boost IC. It's used in a power bank circuit which is ideal for powering a Raspberry Pi zero.\nIn this Instructables, I'm gonna show you guys how you can set up this gaming console and make a Complete handheld Gameboy that can emulate any retro game that you can imagine.\n(Also, the First Half of this project contains the breadboard version and the second half contains the PCB Edition)\nSupplies\nMaterial Required\nThese are the things that we need for this build\n* Raspberry pi zero\n* 16GB memory card (8GB will work as well but I wanted to add many games in it so I choose this instead)\n* TV\n* HDMI to micro HDMI adaptor\n* 5V 2 A Charger/ PowerBank that can output stable 2A\n* keyboard\n* USB to micro USB adaptor\n* RecalBox os image file/ Raspberry Pi Image Flasher\n* Regular Pushbuttons\n* Custom PCB\n* IP5306 IC\n* 10uf 0805 Capacitors\n* USB Port\n* USB Micro Port\n* Li-ion Battery with CON2 Connector wire\n* CON2 Connector\n* 10k 0603 Resistance\n* 2R 0805 Resistance\n* Vertical Push Button\nStep 1: Basic Setup\nThis is what I want to make, a cliche Gameboy layout.\nI'm using a 4.3-inch display in this setup which is pretty huge if compared with a regular Gameboy screen so this setup size will be around 135mm x 140mm. On the front side, there's a display and buttons and on the bottom side, raspberry pi zero along with a boost converter circuit and a Li-Ion Cell will be placed.", "848" ], [ "This Setup is a combination of PCB and 3D Printed Body which will be connected together via screws through the given mounting holes in the PCB.\nStep 2: Setting UP the RecalBox\nIf Raspberry Pi is the Brain of this Project, then the RecalBox is the Heart.\nI'm just making Hardware for this setup, there are already a bunch of other similar Gameboy stations based around Recalbox OS. The reason for that is simple, setting up RecalBox is a pretty easy thing to do and we only have to tweak few things in the OS to make certain things run. Here's how you can install the Recalbox for your raspberry pi!\n* Download the Raspberry Pi imager.\n* Select the right OS for your device, which would be RecalBox\n* select your system which is Rpi0\n* Raspberry pi imager will do your work of downloading and installing the RecalBox on the memory card.\nAfter installing the RecalBox os, you need to plug your Raspberry pi setup with a TV and a Keyboard.\nAfter booting the whole setup, our RecalBox works like a normal emulator.\nStep 3: Schematic for Basic GPIO Wiring\nThis is the schematic that we have to use for GPIO Buttons. The buttons work when we pull down any GPIO Pin to GND.\nStep 4: Display and GPIO Controls\nLet's talk about external display now, because this project apparently has 2 hearts, the second heart is the display.\nwhen it comes to displays, we can find a bunch of them, both for HDMI ports and the ribbon cable one. they all work perfectly well but for this project, a 30$ display is not ideal so I bought a cheap car monitor which has a composite PAL Port.\nYes, I'm using a composite PAL Port here, I'm making a retro gaming console and the FPS is not really an issue here so composite is now my best friend, friendship ended with HDMI Port.\nBefore Hooking up the Car Monitor with Rpi, there was a small problem.\nCar Monitor works with 12V and we require a 5V or 3.3V Display.", "848" ], [ "Smart Thermometer Using Esp-01F and Web Socket [Arduino IDE]\nIntroduction: Smart Thermometer Using Esp-01F and Web Socket [Arduino IDE]\nIn one of the previous instructable, we saw how to make a simple thermometer with ATTINY 85 which can last for 140days with a single battery and it still works great after 40+ days with the same battery I showed in the video.\nBut it was a tiny bit clumsy when it came to the electronics and the programming. So, in this instructable, let me show you how to make a thermometer on steroids with features nobody asked for, but by doing so I hope you will definitely learn plenty of electronics along the way.\nThe device will have the following features:\n* Realtime reading using WebSockets\n* Auto sleep on when not in use\n* Control the thermometer from a webpage\n* Sleek PCB design\n* Integrated esp-01F programmer\n* Integrated lipo charging circuit\n* 3d printed case\nSupplies\nThese are the list of products that can help you do this project with ease\n(Affiliate Link)\n* ESP-01F : https://amzn.to/3imkkd5\n* SMD Resistor : https://amzn.to/3Bhy0yQ\n* SMD Capacitor : https://amzn.to/3Betykm\n* BC817 transistor : https://amzn.to/3kuOcGN\n* CP2102 IC : https://amzn.to/3z8GW7F\n* TP4056 IC : https://amzn.to/3il5lQz\n* SMD LED : https://amzn.to/3kuC0pz\n* Voltage regulator : https://amzn.to/3ifM1Es\n* Micro USB : https://amzn.to/3kumREM\n* White PLA : https://amzn.to/3Betj8W\n* PETG filament : https://amzn.to/3w6bB46\n* DS18B20 : https://amzn.to/3ylGRy0\n* OLED display : https://amzn.to/2VcEATc\n* Resistor Kit : https://amzn.to/3frj4nx\n* 3d Printer : https://amzn.to/3trVWKw\n* Printer Upgrades : https://amzn.to/3hbK3Ga\nStep 1: Why ESP-01F?\nIn version 1 the flash storage was very limited, hardly 8kb, I had struggled a bit for running different libraries. So, this time I chose the esp-01f, which comes with a 1MB of flash memory, which is 128times greater than the ATTINY 85. Along with this it also has features like WiFi, UART, higher clock speed up to 160MHz. Even though it won’t matter for this particular project we can flex the specs to make the thermometer look more muscular.\nBut it does come with a cost, the esp-01f is a very power-hungry module because of the onboard wifi connectivity, but this power consumption can be reduced greatly by putting the module to deep-sleep where it should consume just 20uA according to the datasheet.\nStep 2: Other Components\nThe other components are similar to the thermometer version 1.", "382" ], [ "For the display, I’m going to use the same 0.91inch 128X32 OLED display, for the temperature sensor DS18B20 probe, and finally for the battery a small 150MAh lipo battery.\nEverything looks easy to put together but with great power comes great responsibilities. There are so many smaller details that we are missing to complete this project at least to a bare minimum.\nStep 3: Smaller Details\nTo begin with, the size of the esp-01f is so compact that there is no antenna built-in. So either we have to build one on the PCB or add an external one, if not there will be stability issues and a shorter range for wifi connectivity.\nBut I’m going to do neither of those because I haven’t found myself any true purpose of having wifi integrated with the thermometer yet maybe someday I will but until then I can manage without the antenna.\nAnyway, apart from this programming this module is clumsy and super hard because of the tiny footprint and not being able to solder this on any perf board. So many of my previous methods and technique for programming would not work quite well with this.\nStep 4: USB to Serial Convertor\nThat’s the reason I plan to integrate a USB to serial converter to program the esp-01f. Just like the ones on the development boards like Arduino, Nodemcu, etc.", "382" ], [ "ESP-32 Based BLE Mouse With Magnetic Mouse Pad\nIntroduction: ESP-32 Based BLE Mouse With Magnetic Mouse Pad\nThis instructable is about building an esp32 based BLE mouse, unlike using the traditional method to build a mouse using optical sensors, this mouse works based on magnets embedded in a custom 3d printed mouse pad.\nMake sure to read until the end of the article to know how this mouse is built from scratch and also learn how to navigate the magnetic surface using just a single magnetic pole and with a bunch of hall effect sensors!\nSupplies\nThese are the list of products that can help you do this project with ease\n(Affiliate Link)\n3d printer: https://amzn.to/3trVWKw\nprinter upgrades: https://amzn.to/3hbK3Ga\nOrange filament: https://amzn.to/3DbhpxG\nEsp32: https://amzn.to/2XwQBIf\nhall effect sensor: https://amzn.to/3hHz0UL\nMagnets: https://amzn.to/3nMO47l\nPerfboard:https://amzn.to/3EyIV8M\n18650 Cell holder:https://amzn.to/3lGFsMH\n18650 Cell:https://amzn.to/2Zb9Vv0\nPush buttons: https://amzn.to/3EvvC9g\nSMD capacitor and resistor kit:https://amzn.to/3CqQmNz\nButtons : https://amzn.to/3lDTij1\ncp2102 : https://amzn.to/3hPc4CX\nTp4056 : https://amzn.to/3nHskK6\nStep 1: How an Optical Mouse Work?\nFirst, let’s talk about how the traditional mouse works.\nIf you take a look at the bottom, you may have noticed a flashy red light blasting from the mouse. This is the light that the optical sensor inside the mouse use determines the motion. But how does it work?\nInitially, when I thought about it, I thought it would be something like the IR sensor used in the line follower bot or maybe a little bit more complicated like a LED and array of and Light sensors within an IC and finally maybe some fancy algorithm to detect the motion.\nBut when I heard the working for the first time, I was mind blown by the technology that is used. So, Let me spoil it if you haven’t already heard about it.\nmore info\nStep 2: Inside an Optical Mouse\nIf you break open the mouse you can see an IC with a small notch on the bottom and this is the casing for the camera, When you compare it to the actual camera this capture way too little detail. Because this was not meant to take pictures of people and cats, it was made to take pictures of patterns and tiny grooves on the surface where the mouse is used. Once it takes the picture it applies an algorithm called optical flow, which determines the direction of the mouse by comparing the frames of images it has taken in a continuous motion.\nThis really amazed me, because for the optical flow algorithm to detect which way the camera is moving the 2 consecutive frames has to be very close by. If they are far away the algorithm just doesn’t work that well.", "832" ], [ "Because of this reason, the mouse optical sensor has to capture almost 2000 to 6000 frames per second. Which is far faster than the smartphone camera. So, From now on you can consider yourself a high-speed camera operator when you are a mouse.\nStep 3: Replacement for Optical Sensor - Failure\nSo, to start with the project. My initial idea was never to use magnets.\nI just wanted to build a BLE Bluetooth mouse, But while designing the mouse, I soon ran into the problem of finding the Optical sensor. It was not cheap and the most familiar one to the Arduino community is now obsolete.\nSo my genius brain thought I could build an optical sensor using the ESP32 CAM. I would have been really happy even if I could at least get some decent frame rate, so I could change the lens of the ESP32 CAM and make a very slow/less responsive mouse. But after playing with ESP32 CAM for a while, I decided it was a very bad idea to start with ESP32 CAM.\nThe major reasons why ditched ESP32 CAM:\n* ESP32 CAM was unreliable in capturing high frame rate photos, the max I could push was 24 with very low resolution.\n* The second reason was the optical flow algorithm wouldn’t quite work well and crash the esp32 multiple times.\n* Finally, most esp32 cam comes with the lens locked to the sensor with super glue.\nStep 4: Magnets!!!", "382" ], [ "PCB Heart Necklace\nIntroduction: PCB Heart Necklace\nHey Everyone what's up!\nSo this is my Heart Themed PCB Necklace. The idea here was to make a necklace from PCB that glows. The concept that I used for making this Necklace was pretty simple as well.\nIt's basically a blinky board consisting of 36 LEDs that are controlled by an Attiny84.\nSupplies\nFollowing are the materials used in this built-\n* Attiny84\n* LEDs 0603 package\n* 10K 0603 Resistor\n* SMD Button\n* Slide switch\n* Custom PCB\n* Arduino nano\n* Coin Cell holder\n* solder paste\nStep 1: GETTING STARTED\nI first searched for a heart image that would be suitable for adding leds and componenets, I select this image in the end.\nI first imported this image on fusion360 and sketched the exposed white lines. then I used the extrude function to make this 2D Sketch into a 3D shape. now we have a 3D Heart shape that will act as a base for our PCB design,\nmy plan is to convert this 3D shape into a drawing and export the top layer's DXF file so my OrCAD PCB suite can import this DXF file which will be then used to make the PCB Outline and art patterns.\nStep 2: Circuit Study\nNow after finalizing the shape, I prepared the schematic which consists of a total of 36 LEDs, 6 LEDs are in parallel and there is a total of 6 different led setups driven by 6 different 8205S N channels MOSFET IC.\nThis Mosfet IC is then controlled by an Attiny84 MCU, we can change the LED Glow pattern by pressing this button.", "982" ], [ "After following the schematic and making a PCB Board with these components, I sent the Gerber data to PCBWAY for samples.\nStep 3: Getting PCBs From PCBWAY\nI received the PCBs in a week which was really fast.\nI choose RED Soldermask for this project with a white silkscreen. I've Left openings in the soldermask on both sides so the LED would be visible from the topside.\nThe quality of the PCB I received was just awesome.\nI have Been using their service for a while and I have to say, it's pretty decent for getting started. Checkout PCBWAY from here- https://www.pcbway.com/\nStep 4: PCB ASSEMBLY\nThese are the steps for the main assembly of the FLUX CAP V3 PCB.\n* Solder paste Dispensing Process\n* Pick & Place Process\n* Hotplate Reflow\nBecause this PCB Doesn't have any Through-hole component, we dont have to add any component with soldering iron, except for the Coin Cell holder on the backside.\nStep 5: SOLDER PASTE\nThe first step is to add solder paste to each components pad one by one.\nTo Apply solder paste, I'm using a Solderpaste Dispensing Needle with a Wide syringe, and the solder paste I'm using is a regular solder paste consisting of 63% Tin 37% Lead.\nStep 6: PICK & PLACE PROCESS\nAfter carefully applying Solderpaste we move on to the next step which is to add componenets to their assigned location.\nI used an ESD Tweezer to place each component in its place.\nStep 7: HOTPLATE REFLOW\nAfter the \"Pick & Place Process\", I carefully lifted the whole circuit board and place it on my DIY SMT Hotplate.\nI made this Hotplate especially for making projects like these which require SMD soldering. hotplate available in the market were not exactly cheap so I made a minimal version of that which you can check out from here-\nhttps://www.instructables.com/DIY-SMT-Hotplate-Pro...\nthe hotplate heats the PCB from below up to the solder paste melting temp, as soon as the PCB reaches that temp, solder paste melts and all the components get soldered to their pads.\nWe carefully lift this PCB and try not to shake it as the solder paste is still melted and components might move a bit from their location if shake the circuit too much.\nwe lift the PCB and then place it on a cooler surface for a little bit, to cool down the heat of PCB.\nStep 8: LED Placement\nNow here's something odd, my plan is to add leds on the bottom side of the PCB but the orientation of the LED would be inverted. which means I'm gonna add them upside down so their glow will be visible from the top.\n* To accomplish this method, I have added 1206 Pads on the PCB and I'm using 0805 Package LEDs with this 1206 PAD, by using smaller LEDs, soldering them would be much easier.", "472" ], [ "Fytó - Turn Your Plant Into Pet\nIntroduction: Fytó - Turn Your Plant Into Pet\nFytó is a smart planter that can easily turn your plant into a pet. It comes with built-in sensors that measure everything from light exposure to soil moisture which can trigger six different emotions that will communicate how your plant is doing. The emotions are displayed on the front screen.\nAre you a phytophile? Just add your plant to Fytó, it will start communicating with you.\nSupplies\n1 x LCD Module\n1 x Moisture sensor\n1 x LM35 Temperatures sensor\n1 x LDR module\n1 x Raspberry pi zero 2W\n1 x ADS115 ADC\n1 x 5V 2A adapter\n1 x Micro USB Breadboard 5V Power Supply Module\n5m 30AWG Silicone wires\nPerforated board\nStep 1: Our Pet and It's Emotions\nOur pet comes with 3 basic senses.\n1. Soil Moisture\n2. Temperature\n3. Light Exposure\nFytó displays 6 expressions which are directly related to our plant's health.\n1. Thirsty : Fytó displays thirsty whenever the soil moisture is too low for the plant and is looking for some water\n2. Hot : Displayed whenever Fytó is too hot\n3. Freeze : When the temperature drops too low, Fytó needs some warmth\n4. Sleepy : When the light exposure is too low, Fytó is too sleepy\n5. Savory : When the plant gets some water, it's too delicious na?\n6. Happy : When everything is perfect, Fytó is too happy\nStep 2: Video\nAs with all out projects we have made an accompanying detailed video tutorial.If you would like to see the Fytó in action then take a look at the first of the video.\nDon't worry, we will also add every steps in detail here.\nStep 3: PI ZERO 2W(BRAIN)\nWe will use Raspberry Pi Zero 2W, as the controller for this flower pot. We have different generations of Raspberry pi includes PI3, 4 and zero and zero2w.", "33" ], [ "The reason why we used is due to its smaller size and higher perfomance.\nAt the heart of the Raspberry Pi Zero 2W is a 1GHz BCM2710A1 with 64-bit ARM Cortex-A53 CPU with 512MB RAM. Quite frankly, this Pi is about four times faster than the original Raspberry Pi and is only a fraction of the cost of the current RPi3. So they can easily handle the GIF playing on the screen.\nFor setting up the Raspberry pi, please refer this documentation.\nStep 4: SENSORS WITH ADC\nThe sensors used in this projects are\n* Capacitive Soil moisture sensor - which is used to sense the soil moisture levels.They measures the soil moisture levels by capacitive sensing, rather than resistive sensing like other types of moisture sensor. The ability to prevent corrosion is because it is made of a corrosion resistant material giving it a long service life.\n* LM35 temperature sensor - which is used to sense the temperature, you can use any temperatures sensor you want.\n* LDR module - is used to detect the intensity of light,here we actually used ldr module which contains built in smd resistor. If you are using a bare LDR use a resistor for Pull down/ Pull up.\nThe main problem is that the Raspberry Pi cannot sample data from these analog sensors. In this case, analog sensors can be interfaced with Raspberry Pi using two ways. One is to use an external analog-to-digital converter; the second is to sample data from analog sensors using a microcontroller and transfer all captured data to Raspberry Pi via a serial interface.\nHere we are going with the first case, to use an analog-to-digital converter named ADS115 ADC. It's a 16 bit ADC with high accuracy.\nStep 5: 240×320, General 2inch IPS LCD Display Module\nIn our plan,first we proceeded with playing normal black and white emojis. So for that purpose the normal OLED display would be enough. This display with this particular emojis failed to accentuates the whole project. Then we changed to the coloured emojis, to display that we used this 2inch IPS LCD display module. IPS displays have superior high contrast, wide viewing angle, color reproduction, image quality etc. It only costs 13$, super cheap. In the next setup,we will calibrate the sensors.\nStep 6: Calibration\nCalibration is important because it helps ensure accurate measurements, So we hooked up all sensors and the LCD module by means of jumpers and breadboard to the raspberry pi 4 to make testing and calibration much easier because Pi zero 2w has no headers.", "152" ], [ "Power Block\nIntroduction: Power Block\nHey Everyone what's up!\nSo this is Power block, a DIY UPS that can be used to power a bunch of 5V Operated things like a raspberry pi, an Arduino project, or even charge devices like a tab or smartphone.\nThe heart of this project is this Buck Converter Circuit that I got from PCBWAY's Giftshop.\nPreviously, I've prepared a similar setup that has an onboard buck converter circuit but it can only output 5V 2A and its voltage was not stable, also that project was made for powering 12V things but this Power block is made especially for powering things that operate at 5V Range.\nThis Instructables is gonna be about the whole build process of this UPS, so let's get started.\nSupplies\nFollowing are the materials required in this small built-\n* DC-DC Buck Converter Circuit\n* Battery Pack 12V 25Ah\n* 3D Printed Case\n* Rocker Switch SPDT\n* DC Barrel Jack\n* Wires\n* 5mm RED LED\nStep 1: Main Circuit, DC-DC Buck Converter\nThis is a DC Step-Down Module that takes voltage between 8V to 40V and Provides a Constant 5V 8A Output that can be used to power all sorts of stuff.\nIt has reverse connection protection, overcurrent protection, and overtemperature protection which is what I needed for this kind of project.\nI got this circuit from PCBWAY's Giftshop.\nhttps://www.pcbway.com/project/gifts_detail/6USB_output_DC_step_down_module_12V24v36V_to_5V_8A.html\nPCBWAY gift shop is an online marketplace where you can get a variety of electronics modules and boards for their genuine price or you could use the PCBWAY currency which is called beans.\nYou get beans after ordering something from PCBWAY as reward points or you can also get them by posting any project in the PCBWAY community.\nCheck PCBWAY out for getting great PCB service from here- https://www.pcbway.com/\nFollowing are a few of its features\n* Fix output voltage.\n* High-quality terminal block.\n* 6-Channel USB output.\n* High current output.\n* High conversion efficiency.\n* Stable output.\n* Dual interface free selection input.\n* Support multiple devices to use at the same time.\nStep 2: Battery Pack\nI've connected a 12V 25Ah Battery Pack with this module that I made using Li-ion Cells. You can use a premade battery pack that is available on market, just make sure to buy a battery pack that has an onboard battery management system attached as the buck converter I'm using doesn't have a low cut or high cut feature.\nThe low cut is important as it turns off the power output of the battery pack whenever cells reach their lowest voltage which is 2.8V for each cell and 8.4V for this battery pack as it has the configuration of 3S 10P.\nStep 3: 3D Printed Case\nNext, I measure the circuit and prepared its 3D Drawing first and then used the model as a reference to make a thick body that holds PCB Vertically and holds the battery at the center.\nI used fusion360 for designing the body and exported 3mf files for the Body and Lid so I could 3D print them both.\nAs for 3D Printing, I used generic PLA with an 0.5mm Nozzle and 0.28mm layer height with 20% Infill.\nStep 4: Prep Work Before Main Assembly\nBefore starting the main assembly, I first added wires to SPDT Rocker Switch's both terminal along with DC Jack's Vcc and GND so I could solder them both during the assembly of the circuit.\nThe main circuit has an SMD 0603 Package status led that turns on whenever we supplied power to the battery side, I removed this SMD led and added a 5mm RED THT LED using two wires. Later I tested the LED by plugging a 12V Power source through DC Jack on the circuit.\nAfter preparing the Switch, DC Jack, and circuit, we move on to the next step which is to assemble everything.\nStep 5: Wiring Diagram\nStep 6: Main Assembly\n* First, I added Circuit to its assigned place by sliding it into the grooves, then after this, I added DC Jack, LED, and switch in their place.\n* I then connected the DC Jack, Switch, Battery, and circuit together by following the attached wiring diagram.\n* After wiring, we place the battery in its place and add hot glue to the circuit, Switch, DC Jack, and battery so they dont move from their place.", "982" ] ]

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[ [ "Three Foreign Lawyers Have Returned Home Safely, But What’s Life Like for Local Attorneys in Tajikistan? · Global Voices\nTurkish lawyers returned to their home country. Photo: Turkish Minister of Foreign Affairs <PERSON> / Twitter\nTajikistani authorities have released three lawyers (one from Russia and two from Turkey) after briefly detaining them in the capital city of Dushanbe, where the three tried to meet with arrested leaders of the banned Islamic Revival Party of Tajikistan (IRPT), the party's arrested lawyers, and the family members of arrested lawyers.\nLast fall, two prominent Tajik lawyers were arrested after they launched a defense campaign for the arrested leaders of the IRPT, which is banned in the country.\nAfter landing in Istanbul, following her release, Turkish lawyer <PERSON> tweeted:\nİstanbuldayız.Herkesten Allah razı olsun. Allah Tacikistanda tutulan mazlum müslümanların yar ve yardımcısı olsun.\n— <PERSON> (@Gulden_Sonmez) January 23, 2016\nWe are In Istanbul. Let Allah be happy with you all. Let Allah help all Muslims who are struggling in Tajikistan.\nHer Russian colleague, <PERSON>, wasted no time informing his followers on Facebook—who had been talking about picketting Tajikistan's consulate in Moscow—that he is safe.\nУважаемые друзья и братья,я только что приземлился в аэропорту Домадедово,а это значить мне удалось вернуться в Москву.", "148" ], [ "Самолет задержали на час и я сел последним,как решил свой вопрос. Я адвокат и не нарушал никаких законов Таджикистана и это скорее было попытка лишить меня воли и желания продолжить начатую работу по оказанию содействия своим таджикским коллегам. В ближайшие дни детали этой поездки мы доведем на большой пресс- конференции для мировых СМИ и правозащитных организаций в Стамбуле. Благодарю всех,кто был обеспокоен фактом моего задержания и слава Аллаху все благополучно разрешилось!\nDear friends and brothers, I have just landed in Domodedovo airport. I've made it back to Moscow. The flight was postponed for an hour and I was the last one who got into his seat on the plane after resolving the issue.", "355" ], [ "Going Postal: Tajikistan Stops DHL, UPS and Pony Express in Their Tracks · Global Voices\nPixabay image. OpenClipart-Vectors / 27454. CC0 Public Domain.\nTajikistan, a country with an atrocious state postal service, has shut down several international courier firms such as DHL, UPS, TNT, and Pony Express. The government says that the firms that have been working in the country for the bulk of its 25-year independence will now need licenses to operate.\nLast week the buildings of the companies in the capital Dushanbe were sealed off and their employees ordered to leave the premises, several local and international news agencies reported.\nThe move was the apparent brainchild of the Tajik Communication Service, an organisation that does more to inhibit communication than facilitate it. Mostly, the service headed by <PERSON> (formerly <PERSON>) is known for orders to block social media platforms. In 2012, <PERSON> blocked Facebook — which he accused of spreading “slander and lies” — and sent a barb in <PERSON> direction.\nDoes this Facebook have an owner or not? Could he come to Tajikistan? I would meet with him during my office hours.", "148" ], [ "If he doesn't have time, I could meet with one of his assistants.\nThat explains why Tajik Facebook user <PERSON> wrote ironically last week:\nВообще хозяин у этого DHL есть или нет? Он не может приехать в Таджикистан?\nDoes this DHL have an owner? Can’t he come to Tajikistan?\nMostly, international courier services have operated normally in Tajikistan, although DHL employees were accused of sending drugs to Russia ten years ago. The reason they are being targeted now may have more to do with rent-seeking behaviour increasing as the country's economy falters.\nPut simply, these courier services, which are too expensive for ordinary Tajiks but useful for international organisations, corporations and embassies, are a soft target. They can be shaken down without significantly angering the broader population.\nAnother, more regular target for the Communication Service is Internet Service Providers (ISPs), who are completely beholden to <PERSON>, a relative of Tajik President <PERSON> via marriage. One ploy to extract money out of the cash-cow ISPs is the Unified Electronic Communications Switching Center the government plans to build at their expense.\nAs Eurasianet reported last year:\nIn its latest effort to fasten its grip over the flow of information in and out of the country, the government has established an agency called the “Unified Electronic Communications Switching Center,” abbreviated as EKTs in Russian.\nIn crude terms, the system requires all traffic — be it from mobile phones or the Internet — to be filtered through a network gateway run by state-owned telecommunications company Tojiktelecom.\n“Implementation of the decree is obligatory for all domestic entities active in the electronic communications sector,” the decree states.\nThere are doubts, however, as to the extent to which the the centre will even exist, with many viewing it as an elaborate facade to secure payments from ISPs who have been unable to extract meaningful information about how it will operate. Earlier this year, the same website reported that Tajikistan's government was using other methods to extort cash from the same companies.\nA few months ago, all private dealers of mobile phone sim cards were shut down, emptying space for two new dealers rumored to be belong to <PERSON>'s son, who is also the all-powerful <PERSON>'s son-in-law.\nThere are rumours that the very same man now plans to open a new ISP. Only time will tell whether he will add a new private courier to his blossoming business empire.", "148" ], [ "Six Tajik Mothers Who Rule the Roost on Facebook · Global Voices\nWoman on Facebook. Creative Commons picture.\nOn March 8 Tajikistan celebrates International Women’s Day, a holiday that remains extremely popular in the former Soviet republics, but that was re-branded in Tajikistan as Mothers’ Day.\nHistorically, the vast majority of Tajik mothers lived hard lives, living behind the veil in their homes for centuries before the Bolsheviks came to power, forcing them to unveil and go to work in the cotton fields.\nSince the country's independence in 1991, their lives have been defined by years of separation from their husbands and children, whose cash transfers from Russia make the country the most remittance-dependent in the world.\nBut today is their holiday and Global Voices is marking it by focusing on some of the most empowered and influential Tajik mothers, whose voices in society have been further amplified by <PERSON> invention, Facebook.\nThese women have been chosen not because of the followers they have amassed — there are spam accounts featuring attention-grabbing pictures of women that have amassed more — but because of their unique contributions to modern-day Tajikistan.\n1. Tireless Promoter of Tajik Culture – <PERSON>\nKnown Facebook ladies of Tajikistan: <PERSON>\nA former advisor to President <PERSON>, the mother of two sons, and the owner of her own successful consulting business, <PERSON> rose to popularity on Facebook as an active member of a dozen groups during what is increasingly being remembered as a “golden age of Facebook openness” in Tajikistan between 2011 and 2013.\nWith her extensive background in administering Facebook pages, <PERSON> created the “I Love Khujand” group on Facebook to gather more than 10,000 residents of the second biggest city in the country to help promote tourism and investment by stressing the city's cultural and historical influences.\nWith this in mind, if you find yourself staring at a widely shared Facebook post describing Tajik national dress in Russian or the story behind a national recipe or custom, you can fairly well assume that it emanated from <PERSON> or fellow culture-promoters affiliated to her.\n2. Queen of the Networks – <PERSON>\nKnown Facebook ladies of Tajikistan: <PERSON>\nMother to a son and a daughter, <PERSON> is the best-known lady across Tajik Facebook and owes this popularity in part to her genuine bilingualism. Whereas most Central Asians choose to post in either Russian or a local language, <PERSON> feels comfortable posting in both.\nDespite a life that involves supporting her children's schooling and extra-curricular activities, as well as her job's demands of frequent travel, she always finds time for Facebook.\nThat is because Facebook is a vital part of her brand.", "148" ], [ "The former journalist — Voice of America’s ex-correspondent in Tajikistan — was until recently the subject of a headhunting battle between giant foreign mobile companies trying to harness Facebook to boost their popularity in the market. A few months ago Russia's Megafon lost this battle to Sweden's TeliaSonera, for whom Komilzoda is now a senior communications specialist.\nIn addition to promoting her company and trying to reply to clients that bypass the local call center and turn to her for advice on Facebook, <PERSON> shares life moments and thoughts with her followers as well as informing them about what spa salon she goes to and which ski resort she uses for her winter breaks.\nPresumably, these businesses are also clients of this highly connected mother.\n3. Housewife Superstar – Pari Saidova\nKnown Facebook ladies of Tajikistan: <PERSON>\nPari in Persian means ‘Fairy’ and is synonymous with female beauty in Tajik language and literature. The 25-year-old model star of the Tajik show business <PERSON> is fully worthy of the name.\nUntil last autumn, widow <PERSON> sat at home and took care of her five children, a very normal situation in Tajikistan.\nNo one except relatives and neighbours would know any more about <PERSON>, if she hadn't decided to open an account on Facebook and post some pictures of herself to grab the attention of show business producers.\nUp to one thousand likes under each picture turned her into the most in-demand model for modelling shows and Tajik music clips.\n4. Business First – <PERSON>\nKnown Facebook ladies of Tajikistan: <PERSON>\n<PERSON>’s tailored groups and pages are the main place thousands of Tajik Facebookers go to keep updated on market innovations and technological change.", "148" ], [ "Is Tajikistan’s President ‘Preparing Himself a Parachute’ with Constitutional Changes? · Global Voices\n<PERSON> and family. Wikipedia image.\nOn May 22 Tajikistan will hold a referendum on the <PERSON> family that has ruled it for over two decades against a backdrop of economic dysfunction, pervasive corruption and political repression.\nOn the day at least, the family is almost certain to get its way.\nTajikistan is the poorest of the 15 countries to emerge from the ruins of the Soviet Union in 1991.\nAs soon as the country gained independence, it fell into a five-year civil war that saw <PERSON> and his allies emerge as the country's decisive political force.\nLeader of the Nation\n<PERSON>, 63, is sometimes likened by citizens in the country to the shah of Iran overthrown in the 1979 Iranian Revolution, due to his intolerance of the religion of Islam followed by over 90% of the country's citizens.\nAmendments to the constitution that will be voted on in May include a ban on political parties created on religious grounds, as well as a stipulation that will allow ‘The Founder of Peace and National Unity, Leader of the Nation’ to stand for president an infinite number of times.\n<PERSON>'s Leader of the Nation title was awarded him by parliament in December.\nIn speech to the deputies the speaker of the lower chamber MP <PERSON> said:\n“Этот закон не нужен президенту Эмомали Рахмону, он нужен нам, народу, чтобы закрепить взятый им курс, нацеленный на мир и процветание. Принятый документ – это дань уважения трудам и заслугам великого сына страны. Эмомали Рахмон – спаситель нации, объединивший таджикский народ после тысячелетнего разобщения. Он спас и возродил таджикскую нацию.", "148" ], [ "История услышала боль народа и подарила ему смелого, заботливого, честного, любящего и миролюбивого руководителя, лидера”\nPresident <PERSON> does not need this law, we, the people need it, in order to strengthen the course he has taken, which aims at peace and prosperity. The adopted document is a tribute to the works and merits of this great son of the country. <PERSON>, the saviour of the nation, united the Tajik people after a thousand years of separation. He has saved and revived the Tajik nation. History heard the nation's pain and gave it a brave, caring, honest, loving and peace-loving leader.\nOn a practical level the Leader of the Nation status allows <PERSON> and his family immunity from criminal prosecution, and the inviolability of their properties among other things, even after he leaves office.\nAs one commenter on the Tajik service of RFE/RL commented:\nГотовит себе парашют.\nHe is preparing himself a parachute.", "148" ], [ "Uzbekistan releases its “last detained journalists” · Global Voices\n<PERSON>, Uzbek journalist. Photo by Radio Ozodlik\nOnce known as one of the world’s most despotic regimes, Uzbekistan continues to move closer to a free society since new president <PERSON> came to power in September 2016.\nOn May 7, 2018, the former Soviet Central Asian republic freed two journalists, <PERSON> and <PERSON>, who were detained in September and October 2017 for “anti-constitutional activities”.\nThe Committee to Protect Journalists welcomed this move by the Uzbek authorities and declared that for the first time in last two decades there are no journalists left behind bars in Uzbekistan. Other international organizations also expressed their approval of the move. The international community had been keeping a special eye on this case, as it was the first time since the arrival of Uzbekistan's new president that journalists had been detained in the country.\nThe OSCE Representative on Freedom of the Media, <PERSON>, welcomed their release and urged that “all remaining charges should be dropped.”\nSince the collapse of the Soviet Union, Uzbekistan had been ruled by the iron-handed <PERSON>, until he died in September 2016. <PERSON>’s long-serving Prime Minister <PERSON> replaced his late boss, launched some economic and political reforms at home, and catalyzed changes in regional integration.", "148" ], [ "Among the political changes was the release of several political prisoners who had served decades in prison. According to the Committee to Protect Journalists, five journalists, not including the two released this week, were also freed in the past one and a half years.\nIt was during this period of political reform that journalists <PERSON> and <PERSON> were detained on the same charges <PERSON> regime had used to imprison political opponents and journalists for years. The outcome of this case would show whether President <PERSON> was committed to continuing his reforms and an open-door policy or just temporarily playing the role of “good cop” to win people’s support for his internal political battles.\nThe detained journalists were charged with writing articles calling for the violent overthrow of the regime in Uzbekistan under a pseudonym. The journalists recognized that their articles had raised problems, but denied that this included calls to violence.\nWhen security forces officers in charge with investigating the case became themselves embroiled in a power struggle between the powerful former head of Uzbekistan’s security forces, <PERSON>, and the new president <PERSON>, many hoped that the journalists <PERSON> and <PERSON> would be freed.\nOn May 7, the court acquitted <PERSON> of all charges, but found <PERSON> guilty of “extremism”, sentencing the journalist to three years of community service. The judge released both directly from the courtroom.\nMinutes after breathing in the air of freedom and hugging his family members, <PERSON> gave an interview to his local colleagues, saying:\nThe fact that I am free now, and the fact that the court hearing was open, are fruits of the liberal politics of the President <PERSON>.\nUzbekistan, like many other former Soviet republics, is a country where even small political moves are subject to the ruler’s approval.\nAs CPJ Europe and Central Asia Program Coordinator <PERSON> commented:\nNow that the country has freed its press from physical custody, authorities must build on this progress to ensure that the media are able to do their job independently and without fear of reprisal.", "409" ], [ "‘Singing the Tale of Our Pain’: Tajikistan’s Migration Phenomenon Finds a Home in Music · Global Voices\nScreenshot from <PERSON> – Yori Musofir (2015). Music Video uploaded onto YouTube January 3, 2016.\nIn jobless Tajikistan, leaving your loved ones behind to take up menial work in Russia is almost a rite of passage. Local pop music, in turn, has become an important medium to reflect on the social transformations triggered by the mass exodus of young men from the former Soviet country.\nНамехоҳам аз ватан дур, зиндагӣ мекунад маҷбур,\nМакун гиря модарҷонам, қисмати мо чӣ талху шӯр.\nАз ошиқам ҷудо кардӣ, дилам пур аз ғамҳо кардӣ,\nМаро тани танҳо кардӣ, ба дардҳо мубтало кардӣ,\nОҳ ғарибӣ!\nNo desire to leave homeland, but have to,\nDon’t cry, dear mother, our fate is that bitter.\nI am separated from friends, and love,\nMy heart full of sadness, I’m lonely and sick.\nTajikistan is home to more than eight million people.", "148" ], [ "It is estimated that more than half of all working age males seek jobs abroad, overwhelmingly in Russia.\nAccording to World Bank data, migrant remittances equate to a greater proportion of Tajikistan's economy (26.9%) than any other economy in the world, bar those of Central Asian neighbour Kyrgyzstan (30.4%) and Nepal (31.3%).\nThe factors pushing citizens away from the majority-Muslim country are manifold. It is the poorest of the 15 republics that gained independence from the former Soviet Union. Corruption is rampant and public services are in turmoil. For those able to find work, wages are low and often outpaced by inflation.\nҲар куҷо шодаму шодон, ба ёди Ватанам,\nҲар куҷо ташнаву ношод, ба ёди Ватанам\nWherever I am happy and joyful, I think of homeland,\nWherever I am thirsty and sad, I think of homeland.\nThis upbeat music video put together by the International Organisation for Migration and the Tajik government calls on migrants enjoying success abroad to contribute to their homeland's development.\nThe clip includes footage (from 2.50) of long-serving Tajik President <PERSON> meeting with compatriots in Moscow.\nThe reality of most migrants’ lives is far less colourful than the video above suggests.\nWorking conditions in Russia and other host countries are often poor, with corruption, racism and exploitation at the core of everyday life.\nOn average, more than one Tajik labour migrant returns home in a coffin every day.\nТеппае гӯри бародар, теппае гӯри падар,\nБайни он ду теппа бошад ҷойи як гӯри дигар.\nГар бимирам дар ғарибӣ, Тоҷикистонам баред\nFather’s grave on one side and brother’s on the other side,\nIs there space for one more grave?\nFind it! If I die in gharibi, take my body home, to Tajikistan!", "148" ], [ "Here’s to <PERSON> and Four Other Tajikistan Sporting Success Stories You’ve Never Heard · Global Voices\n<PERSON>, hammer throw champion of the 2016 Olympic Games. Image widely shared among Tajiks on Facebook.\nAs Tajikistan prepares to welcome home its gold-winning Rio 2016 athlete <PERSON>, Global Voices reminisces over this and other sporting achievements the small, mountainous, Central Asian country has recorded over the course of its fraught 25-year independence.\n2016 – <PERSON>, first Olympic Gold\nIf you read Global Voices, you might already have heard of this one.\nHammer-thrower <PERSON> was a son of the civil war that raged in Tajikistan from 1992 to 1997 — his father was killed fighting in 1996 when he was only 15 — and his incredible victory at the Rio Olympics in some ways marked the long and difficult journey into peace that the country has made since the war's end.\nThe 34-year-old deputy chairman of the state Youth, Sport, and Tourism Committee of Tajikistan was the country's standard-bearer at the Games and its best chance of a podium finish, although few could have predicted he would upend all of his more fancied rivals to take gold.\nIn a rare move, the country's veteran President <PERSON> began his morning with a phone call to Dilshod to congratulate him, while municipal officials in several cities hung up huge banners bearing an image of <PERSON>’s smiling face with the country’s flag wrapped around his neck.\nTajikistan's opponents-in-exile meanwhile even ceased for a day an otherwise endless stream of criticism of the government to honour the achievement, as <PERSON>'s family home was mobbed by well-wishers.\nNowhere was the hubbub more visible than on Tajik sections of social media, where support has been building ever since to recognise <PERSON> as a National Hero of Tajikistan.\n2015 – FC Istiqlol reach the AFC Cup final\nFC “Istiqlol” after one of victories at the AFC Cup 2015.", "148" ], [ "The picture is from the official web-site of the FC “Istiqlol”\nOk, it's not the European Champions’ League, and, in fact, it's not even the Asian Champions’ League, but you can only excel in the tournaments you are allowed to enter, right?\nWhen the perennial national football champion of Tajikistan Istiqlol was drawn in an AFC Cup group with two teams that had graced the final of the tournament the year before, everyone was skeptical.\nIn the first game Istiqlol lost on home turf, but surprises came later with an unexpected series of victories over their better-fancied rivals, which enabled the country's top team to wind up first in the so-called “group of death”.\nExpectations increased as the team advanced through the knock-out stages of the tournament — the second most prestigious professional tournament in Asian club football — culminating in the final which again was played on home soil.\nUnfortunately, the referee cancelled all three goals scored by Istiqlol during the game, allowing Malaysian side <PERSON> to leave the Central Asian country with the cup.\nDespite the perceived injustice of the game, the country was grateful to its footballers for the positive emotions that came with every victory over stronger and better-known teams.\n2012 – <PERSON>, first female Olympic medal\n<PERSON> during the awarding ceremony wore Tajik national clothe. The picture is taken from girlboxing.org\nTajikistan was awash with emotion when a tiny girl, who as a teenager had brought the body of her dead father back to Tajikistan from their home in Moscow, won bronze at the 2012 London Olympics.\n<PERSON>’s medal in the lightweight boxing was not the first Tajikistan had won at the Olympics, but it was the first won by a female representative of any Persian-speaking country (Iran, Afghanistan, or Tajikistan).\nTo call 2012 an incredibly successful year for a 20-year-old girl hailing from a poor family of economic migrants would be an understatement.\nIn addition to the Olympics, <PERSON> also took medals at the World and Asian championships, winning praise at home and earning several flats as gifts from the impoverished state.\nThe same year, as Global Voices reported, <PERSON> got married and briefly hung up her gloves to have her first child.\n“I love the sport,” she told journalists at the time. “But family is more important to me.", "910" ], [ "Veto Viber? Tax Telegram? Such Are Tajikistan’s Tech Company Conundrums · Global Voices\nCartoon by <PERSON>.\nIn an attempt to stem a cash flow crisis, Tajikistan is taking up increasingly hostile postures towards digital communications companies.\nIn recent months, the government has made moves to monopolize the internet service provision and revoke licences for cheap IP-based call services. It has also been reported that restrictions are being placed on popular mobile messaging applications.\nThese changes all could make life costlier for users in Tajikistan, the poorest country to emerge from the Soviet breakup.\nAt the beginning of January 2018, the state Communications Service ordered local, privately-owned internet service providers (ISPs) to purchase internet infrastructure only from the state-owned company “Tojnet” (managed by the state's telecommunications monopolist “Tojiktelecom”) instead of buying it directly from neighbouring Kyrgyzstan, as was their custom.\nThis was made worse when on December 18, 2017 authorities revoked ISPs’ licenses to provide IP-based cheap call services through a protocol known as NGN (New Generation Network).\nAt the start of 2018, users reported problems making calls through call and messaging app Viber, and suspected that the government was blocking the app.\nAlthough state officials claimed that they took these measures in the interest of “national security” “because of extremists’ threats”, motivations for revoking NGN service and blocking Viber's audio and video call features appear to have been more economic than political. Both had become a thorn in the side of state-run Tojiktelecom, as they allowed millions of citizens with friends and relatives working abroad to keep in touch without using costly international calling services.\nOver a million Tajiks are migrant workers outside the country, mostly in Russia. If it weren't for apps like Viber, Tajiks would likely be using international phone lines to call their relatives, and thus generating revenue for Tojiktelecom, the government-run international exchange point for telephony. Or they would simply call home less often.\nMessaging apps face uncertain future\nWhile massive numbers of users complained Viber had become inaccessible at the beginning of the year, problems using the app later evaporated under mysterious circumstances.\nViber began working again some days ago, but its functionality has been inconsistent, with some users reporting that they are unable to make calls, while others say it is full functional. IMO, another popular messaging app, remains fully functional.\nCuriously, the news website Akhbor, claimed that the (perhaps only partial) revival of Viber was the result of an intervention by <PERSON>, the 30-year-old mayor of capital city Dushanbe, who is also the son of long-reigning autocrat <PERSON>.\nWhile the news report is seemingly based on the testimony of a single anonymous government source, the claim is believable.\nViewed as his 65-year-old father's most likely successor, <PERSON> has used social media and apps to boost his public profile in his new role, after prior stints in charge of the customs service and state anti-corruption agency.\nAccording to regional news website EurasiaNet.org:\nOnly three months ago [<PERSON>] ordered the creation of a channel on Viber through which the general public could get in touch with the city government, so he is hardly likely to want to see the app being squeezed out.\nCommunications as a cash cow\nFew major companies operate in Tajikistan.", "534" ], [ "The country of 8.5 million is largely agrarian and strongly dependent on cash transfers sent by migrants working in Russia, which have dropped as a result of the economic downturn there.\nThat has left telecom companies and Internet Service Providers (ISPs) among the most significant contributors to Tajikistan's state budget. And beyond taxes, the companies have made other contributions to the state coffers.\nAt the beginning of 2017, at least three large telecommunications companies, two of them Russian (Megafon and Beeline) and one European (Tcell), faced large fines for tax evasion, ranging from USD $17 million to $35 million. The companies took the case to a local court but lost their legal battles. The only locally-owned major telecom, Babilon-M, was fined around USD $55 million in 2014.\nTajikistan also expects global tech firms to line up and pay. At the end of 2017, media reported authorities were looking to tax Google, Alibaba Group, and Telegram.\nThe basis for the reports was a letter from the head of the local tax committee to the government of Tajikistan dated September 2017 but leaked in December 2017. In it, tax chief <PERSON> complained the Russian state budget had seen billions of rubles in income from Google, Apple, Alibaba, Amazon and others in 2017.", "704" ] ]

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[ [ "<PERSON> Stress Tensor in the absence of a magnetic field\nI'm having some trouble calculating the stress tensor in the case of a static electric field without a magnetic field. Following the derivation on Wikipedia,\n1. Start with <PERSON> force: $$\\mathbf{F} = q(\\mathbf{E} + \\mathbf{v}\\times\\mathbf{B})$$\n2. Get force density $$\\mathbf{f} = \\rho\\mathbf{E} + \\mathbf{J}\\times\\mathbf{B}$$\n3. Substitute using <PERSON>'s laws $$\\mathbf{f} = \\epsilon_0 \\left(\\boldsymbol{\\nabla}\\cdot \\mathbf{E} \\right)\\mathbf{E} + \\frac{1}{\\mu_0} \\left(\\boldsymbol{\\nabla}\\times \\mathbf{B} \\right) \\times \\mathbf{B} - \\epsilon_0 \\frac{\\partial \\mathbf{E}}{\\partial t} \\times \\mathbf{B}$$\n4. Replace some curls and combine $$\\mathbf{f} = \\epsilon_0\\left[ (\\boldsymbol{\\nabla}\\cdot \\mathbf{E} )\\mathbf{E} + (\\mathbf{E}\\cdot\\boldsymbol{\\nabla}) \\mathbf{E} \\right] + \\frac{1}{\\mu_0} \\left[(\\boldsymbol{\\nabla}\\cdot \\mathbf{B} )\\mathbf{B} + (\\mathbf{B}\\cdot\\boldsymbol{\\nabla}) \\mathbf{B} \\right] - \\frac{1}{2} \\boldsymbol{\\nabla}\\left(\\epsilon_0 E^2 + \\frac{1}{\\mu_0} B^2 \\right)\n5. \\epsilon_0\\frac{\\partial}{\\partial t}\\left( \\mathbf{E}\\times \\mathbf{B}\\right)$$\n6. Get the tensor $$\\sigma_{i j} = \\epsilon_0 \\left(E_i E_j - \\frac{1}{2} \\delta_{ij} E^2\\right) + \\frac{1}{\\mu_0} \\left(B_i B_j - \\frac{1}{2} \\delta_{ij} B^2\\right)$$\n7.", "649" ], [ "Assuming B=0: $$\\sigma_{i j} = \\epsilon_0 \\left(E_i E_j - \\frac{1}{2} \\delta_{ij} E^2\\right)$$\n8. Assume flat surface with perpendicular field (z-direction) $$\\sigma_{z z} = \\epsilon_0 \\left(E^2 - \\frac{1}{2} E^2\\right)=\\frac{\\epsilon_0}{2} E^2$$\nThis is the formula given in e.g. The Feynman Lectures in Physics Vol. 2 (Page 31-14), and some other text books.\nHowever, this derivation seems to assume a magnetic field until the final steps. Since most terms in eq. 4 result from the initial v x B term (even those that depend only on E, $(\\mathbf{E}\\cdot\\boldsymbol{\\nabla}) \\mathbf{E}$ and $\\frac{1}{2} \\boldsymbol{\\nabla}\\epsilon_0 E^2$ ), these should not be present in my case, and in fact eq 4 should be as simple as $$ \\mathbf{f} = \\epsilon_0\\left[ (\\boldsymbol{\\nabla}\\cdot \\mathbf{E} )\\mathbf{E}\\right] $$\nTensor calculus is not my strong point. To me it is not clear how to get from eq 4 to eq 5, and how modifying eq 4 alters the resulting stress tensor. Will it really still be the same as eq 6? To me it seems strange that removing terms would not affect the result, yet this seems to be what many text books claim. Or is there some reason why the initial v x B term can not be removed, even when there is no magnetic field?", "649" ], [ "<PERSON>'s law for a current loop being deformed\nI'm working through <PERSON>'s Classical Electrodynamics text (3rd version, chapter 5.15) about <PERSON>'s law:\n<PERSON>'s law is pretty familiar:\n$\\int_c E \\cdot dl = -\\frac{d}{dt}(\\int_s B \\cdot n da)$\nwhich states that the contour integral of the electric field around a bounded surface is equal to the negative time rate of change of the flux bounded by that surface. No problem. Here we have a total derivative and <PERSON> addresses 2 cases.\n\"The flux though the circuit may change because (a) the flux changes with time at a point, or (b) the translation of the circuit changes the location of the boundary\"\nIn either of these cases, it is easy to show that:\n$\\frac{d}{dt}(\\int_s B \\cdot n da) = \\int_s(\\frac{\\partial B}{\\partial t} \\cdot n da) + \\int_c(B \\times v)\\cdot dl$\nby using $\\frac{d}{dt} = \\frac{\\partial}{\\partial t} + v \\cdot \\nabla$ and then applying a \"product rule\", $\\nabla \\cdot B = 0$ and stokes theorem.", "903" ], [ "i.e.:\n$\\frac{d}{dt}\\int_s B \\cdot n da = \\frac{\\partial}{\\partial t}\\int_s B \\cdot n da + (v \\cdot \\nabla) \\int_s B \\cdot n da$\nIn the case where the surface is constant, we can exchange the order of differentiation and integration:\n$\\frac{d}{dt}\\int_s B \\cdot n da = \\int_s \\frac{\\partial}{\\partial t} B \\cdot n da + \\int_s (v \\cdot \\nabla) B \\cdot n da$\nI still have no problem with this. Now we can work on the second term on the right (apply a product rule, drop terms with $\\nabla \\cdot B$ and then apply stokes theorem) to get the $\\int_c(B \\times v)\\cdot dl$ term.\nwhich, when applied to <PERSON>'s law gives the nice result:\n$\\int_c [ E' - (v \\times B)] \\cdot dl = - \\int_s \\frac{\\partial B}{\\partial t} \\cdot n da$\nThe problem arises when you allow the shape of the bounded surface to change. (Consider a circular wire loop in a magnetic field that you then hit with a hammer causing a dent in one side). How does changing the surface influence the result that we derived above? It seems to me that this would prevent us from being able to exchange the order of differentiation and integration which seems like it leaves us in a pretty tight spot ...", "903" ], [ "Consider first the expansion of the electrostatic potential $\\Phi$ in a stationary situation $$\\Phi(\\vec{r}) = \\frac{Q}{4 \\pi \\epsilon_0 r} + \\frac{\\vec{d}\\cdot \\vec{r}}{4\\pi \\epsilon_0 r^3} + \\mathcal{O}(r^{-3})$$ Now let us shift our origin by $\\vec{a}, \\vec{R} = \\vec{r} - \\vec{a}$, where $|\\vec{a}| \\ll r$. The monopole term then gets expanded as $$\\frac{Q}{4 \\pi \\epsilon_0 r} = \\frac{Q}{4 \\pi \\epsilon_0 |\\vec{R} + \\vec{a}|} = \\frac{Q}{4 \\pi \\epsilon_0 R} - \\frac{Q(\\vec{a}\\cdot \\vec{R})}{4 \\pi \\epsilon_0 R^3} + \\mathcal{O}(R^{-3})$$ The dipole term is simply $$\\frac{\\vec{d}\\cdot \\vec{r}}{4\\pi \\epsilon_0 r^3} = \\frac{\\vec{d}\\cdot \\vec{R}}{4\\pi \\epsilon_0 R^3} + \\mathcal{O}(R^{-3})$$ Now let's take a look at the whole potential $$\\Phi(\\vec{r}) = \\Phi(\\vec{R}) = \\frac{Q}{4 \\pi \\epsilon_0 R} + \\frac{(\\vec{d}-Q\\vec{a})\\cdot \\vec{R}}{4\\pi \\epsilon_0 R^3} + \\mathcal{O}(R^{-3})$$ Note that this is (within the approximation) just a different description of the same potential as above. In other words, if you take a look at the same physical point, you will get the same value of $\\Phi$ independent of whether you are in the $\\vec{r}$ coordinates or the $\\vec{R}$ coordinates.\nNow let us denote the dipole defined with respect to $\\vec{R}$ as $\\vec{D}$ and compute $$\\vec{D} = \\int \\rho \\vec{R} d V = \\int \\rho \\vec{r} d V - \\int \\rho \\vec{a} d V = \\vec{d} - Q\\vec{a}$$ We then see that our shifted potential in $\\vec{R}$ coordinates can be written as $$\\Phi(\\vec{R}) = \\frac{Q}{4 \\pi \\epsilon_0 R} + \\frac{\\vec{D}\\cdot \\vec{R}}{4\\pi \\epsilon_0 R^3} + \\mathcal{O}(R^{-3})$$ which is exactly the multipole expansion that you would get if you started from the $\\vec{R}$ coordinates in the first place.\nI.e., multipole expansions are covariant with respect to coordinate shifts. It is possible to show that this applies to all orders with more and more terms trickling down from lower orders to higher ones, and you can even show covariance of the multipole expansion with respect to the whole <PERSON> group (with small translations).\nYou are now probably asking what is happening with your radiation formula then.", "649" ], [ "The trick is that the formulas you give will apply only in inertial frames. In particular, $\\vec{a}$ will typically be a constant shift. However, your radiation formula applies to oscillation magnitudes to which a constant $\\vec{a}$ will have subleading or outright vanishing contributions.\nConsider the dipole moment. We have $\\vec{D} = \\vec{d} - Q\\vec{a}$. Then you see that since $\\dot{Q} = \\dot{a} = 0$, we have $\\dot{D} = \\dot{d}$ and there is no extra term arising in the radiation formula from the shift.\nAs for the dipole magnetic moment, we have $$\\vec{\\mu}' = \\vec{\\mu} + \\frac{1}{c}\\vec{a} \\times \\int \\vec{j}\\, dV$$ It is a slightly more complicated argument why the extra term will be subleading.", "499" ], [ "Vector potential of a solenoid in the Coulomb gauge\nI understand the usual argument for calculating the vector potential outside of a solenoid of radius $R$ with $n$ turns per unit length carrying current $I_0$ using $$ \\oint \\mathbf{A} \\cdot d \\mathbf{l} = \\iint \\nabla \\times \\mathbf{A} \\cdot d\\mathbf{a} = \\iint \\mathbf{B} \\cdot d\\mathbf{a} $$ which gives (in Gaussian units) $$ A_{\\varphi} = \\frac{2\\pi}{c} \\frac{nI_0 R^2}{r} $$ However, I am asked explicitly to find the vector potential in the Coulomb gauge. I have two main questions:\n1) Is showing that this vector potential satisfies $\\nabla \\cdot \\mathbf{A} = 0$ and $\\mathbf{B} = \\nabla \\times \\mathbf{A}$ sufficient? That seems a bit too much like a 'physicist proof' to me.\n2) How can I compute the vector potential explicitly from the form $$ \\mathbf{A} = \\frac{1}{c} \\int \\frac{\\mathbf{J}(\\mathbf{r}',t)}{|\\mathbf{r}-\\mathbf{r}'|} d^3 r $$ I have written $$ \\mathbf{J}(\\mathbf{r}',t) = n I_0 \\frac{\\delta(r'-R)}{R} \\ \\hat{\\varphi} $$ which gives after some algebra and one integration $$ \\mathbf{A} = \\frac{n I_0}{c} \\int_0^{2\\pi} \\int_{-\\infty}^{\\infty} \\frac{1}{\\sqrt{r^2+R^2 - 2rR \\cos(\\varphi-\\varphi') + (z-z')^2 }}dz' d\\varphi' \\ \\hat{\\varphi} $$ But doesn't the integral over $z$ diverge? This integral isn't doable by Mathematica.", "402" ], [ "Have I done something wrong?\nEDIT:\nI suppose I can simplify this integral by (without loss of generality) letting $\\phi = 0$ and $z=0$. The integral becomes \\begin{align} \\mathbf{A} &= \\frac{n I_0}{c} \\int_0^{2\\pi} \\int_{-\\infty}^{\\infty} \\frac{1}{\\sqrt{r^2+R^2 - 2rR \\cos(\\varphi') + (z')^2 }}dz' d\\varphi' \\ \\hat{\\varphi} \\ &= \\frac{n I_0}{c} \\int_{-\\infty}^{\\infty} \\frac{2 K\\left(-\\frac{4 r R}{(r-R)^2+(z')^2}\\right)}{\\sqrt{(r-R)^2+(z')^2}}+\\frac{2 K\\left(\\frac{4 r R}{(r+R)^2+(z')^2}\\right)}{\\sqrt{(r+R)^2+(z')^2}} dz' \\end{align} But this still seems to diverge. How can I show that this reduces to $\\frac{2\\pi}{c} \\frac{nI_0 R^2}{r} $?", "402" ], [ "Let me take you through deriving the boundary conditions. I had a fantastic Prof, who explained this very well. We can derive them by evaluating some of <PERSON>'s equations at the interface.\nBoundary Condition 1\nFirst, let's assume there is a surface charge density $\\rho_{sf}$. Let's begin with <PERSON>' Law: $$ \\oint \\vec{D}\\cdot \\mathrm{d}\\vec{S} = Q_{encl} $$\nWe used the displacement field here, defined as $\\vec{D} = \\varepsilon \\vec{E}$, and $Q_{encl}$ is the charge enclosed by a Gaussian box we're about to draw. Let's make it a cylinder around the interface, of height $h$.\nIn words, <PERSON>' law states that the net flux of an electric (displacement) field in a closed surface is directly proportional to the enclosed electric charge. Our cylinder is the closed surface - let's work the integral out!\nFirst, there are no constraints on our choice of the Gaussian surface's height, so we can take the limit $h \\rightarrow 0 $.", "903" ], [ "This means the surface integral for the curved surface goes to zero, and we're left with the ends:\n$$ \\int_{top} \\vec{D}\\cdot \\mathrm{d}\\vec{S} = (\\vec{D}1\\cdot \\hat{n})A $$ $$ \\int{bottom} \\vec{D}\\cdot \\mathrm{d}\\vec{S} = -(\\vec{D}_2\\cdot \\hat{n})A $$\nwhere A is the surface area of the top and bottom end of the cylinder, the subscript number indicates the medium and $\\hat{n}$ is the surface normal. Note that for the bottom end, the integral is negative as the surface normal and the displacement field point in opposite directions.\nNot forgetting about charge enclosed $Q_{end}$: in the limit of $h \\rightarrow 0$, this becomes equal to the surface charge density multiplied by the area of the top/bottom surface! So, <PERSON>' law becomes:\n$$ (\\vec{D}1\\cdot \\hat{n} - \\vec{D}_2\\cdot \\hat{n})A = A\\rho{surf} $$\nCancelling $A$ and evaluating the dot products, we end up with the first boundary condition for the displacement field vector component perpendicular to the interface:\n$$ \\boxed{D_{1\\perp} - D_{2\\perp} = \\rho_{surf}} $$\nWe could substitute $\\vec{D} = \\varepsilon \\vec{E}$ here. Also, the presence of a surface charge will depend on the type of interface.\nBoundary Condition 2\nFor the next boundary condition, let's evaluate the integral form of Faraday's Law:\n$$ \\oint \\vec{E}\\cdot\\mathrm{d}\\vec{l} = - \\frac{\\mathrm{d}}{\\mathrm{d}t} \\int \\vec{B}\\cdot\\mathrm{d}\\vec{S} $$\nIn words, this states that for any closed loop path, the sum of the length elements times the electric field in the direction of the length element is equal to the time derivative of the magnetic flux through the surface created by the closed loop path.\nSo, let's draw a rectangular loop of height $h$ and length $l$ around the interface. We can split the path integral of Faraday's Law up into a sum of 4 parts, for each side of the loop. Again, we can take the limit $h\\rightarrow0$, which means we are only left with the path integrals parallel to the surface:\n$$ \\int_{top} \\vec{E}\\cdot\\mathrm{d}\\vec{l} = (\\vec{E}1 \\cdot \\hat{n})l $$ $$ \\int{bottom} \\vec{E}\\cdot\\mathrm{d}\\vec{l} = -(\\vec{E}_2 \\cdot \\hat{n})l $$\nwhere $\\hat{n}$ is the unit vector in direction of the loop. Not forgetting about $\\int \\vec{B}\\cdot\\mathrm{d}\\vec{S}$: in the limit of $h\\rightarrow 0$, as the surface area of the enclosed path goes to 0, $\\int \\vec{B}\\cdot\\mathrm{d}\\vec{S} = 0$.", "707" ], [ "Lagrangian equations of motion for ball rolling on turntable\nThe equations governing the motion of a ball of mass m, radius R rolling on a table rotating at constant angular velocity $ \\Omega $ which are derived using <PERSON>'s laws are: (I present these for comparison) \\begin{align} (I+mR^2) \\dot{\\omega}_x &= (I+2mR^2)\\Omega \\omega_y-mR \\Omega^2y \\ (I+mR^2) \\dot{\\omega}_y &= -(I+2mR^2)\\Omega \\omega_x + mR \\Omega^2 x \\ \\dot{x} &= R \\omega_y \\ \\dot{y} &= -R \\omega_x \\end{align} Where $x,y,\\omega_x,\\omega_y$ are absolute values measured in the rotating frame ($x,y$ being positions and $\\omega_x,\\omega_y$ angular velocities of the ball). To express the position, velocity, etc in the inertial $XYZ$ frame we can perform a change of variables: \\begin{align} X=x \\cos \\theta - y \\sin \\theta \\ Y=x \\sin \\theta + y \\cos \\theta \\end{align} The equations written above are correct as far as I know. Now I've tried to derive these equations using the Lagrangian approach, but my equations differ slightly from the above.", "101" ], [ "I'll share my work here:\nWe start with the standard formulation of the Lagrangian equations of motion: $$\\frac{d}{dt} \\left( \\frac{\\partial L}{\\partial \\dot{q_i}} \\right) - \\frac{\\partial L}{\\partial q_i}=Q_i$$ For this system, there are no non-conservative forces doing work at any time so $Q_i=0$ (Assuming no-slip here). Now the kinetic energy of the system is: $$T=\\frac{1}{2}m \\| v \\| ^2 + \\frac{1}{2} I \\| \\omega \\|^2 $$ Where $v$,$\\omega$ are the absolute linear and angular velocities of the ball, $I$ is the moment of inertia of the center of mass. I'll proceed in the rotating frame basis $xyz$, where the position $r$ of the ball is given by $$\\vec{r}=x \\hat{i} + y \\hat{j}$$ Using velocity kinematics in rotating frames, the absolute velocity of the ball is given by: $$\\vec{v}=\\vec{\\Omega} \\times \\vec{r} + \\vec{v}{xyz}$$ Where $\\vec{v}{xyz}$ is the velocity of the ball in the rotating frame: $$\\vec{v}{xyz} = \\dot{x} \\hat{i} + \\dot{y} \\hat{j}$$ So the absolute velocity $\\vec{v}$ after expanding gives: $$\\vec{v} = (\\dot{x}-\\Omega y) \\hat{i} + (\\dot{y} +\\Omega x) \\hat{j} $$ It follows from taking the magnitude of the absolute velocity: $$\\| v \\|^2 = (\\dot{x}-\\Omega y)^2 + (\\dot{y}+\\Omega x)^2$$ The first unknown term in the Lagrangian equations of motion.", "101" ], [ "Goldstein Classical Mechanics exercise 5.17 (3ed) conceptual\nI am having difficulty understanding a concept in the \"Heavy symmetric top\" type of problems. I will include all of my efforts as to hopefully have someone easily point out what it is that I'm missing. The question reads:\nA uniform right circular cone of height $h$, half-angle $\\alpha$ and density $\\rho$ rolls on it's side without slipping on a uniform horizontal plane in such a manner that it returns to it's original position in a time $\\tau$ . Find expressions for the kinetic energy and the components of the angular momentum of the cone.\nI begin by finding the volume (since I memorize no such things) and decide on the obvious choice of cylindrical coordinates.", "15" ], [ "My mass will then be $$\\rho\\int_0^h \\int_0^{2\\pi} \\int_0^{z \\tan{\\left(\\alpha\\right)}}r \\, \\mathrm{d}r \\, \\mathrm{d}\\theta \\, \\mathrm{d}z = \\frac{\\pi \\rho R^2h}{3} $$ then while I'm at it I likewise find the center of mass (in the $z$) $$\\frac{1}{V}\\int_0^h \\int_0^{2\\pi} \\int_0^{z \\tan{\\left(\\alpha\\right)}}zr \\, \\mathrm{d}r \\, \\mathrm{d}\\theta \\, \\mathrm{d}z = \\frac{3h}{4} $$ moving onto the moments for the inertia tensor, I use$$ I_{ij} = \\int_V\\rho \\left(\\delta_{ij} \\Sigma_k x_k - x_i x_j\\right) \\, \\mathrm{d}V $$ and find that $\\bf{I}$ is already diagonal, I get elements $I_1 = I_2 = \\frac{3M}{20}\\left(R^2+4h^2\\right)$; and $I_3 =\\frac{3M}{20}\\left(2R^2\\right)$ so that the inertia tensor about the apex at the origin of the coordinate system is given by $$ \\bf{I} = \\begin{bmatrix} \\frac{3M}{20}\\left(R^2+4h^2\\right) & 0 & 0 \\ 0 & \\frac{3M}{20}\\left(R^2+4h^2\\right) & 0 \\ 0 & 0 & \\frac{3M}{20}\\left(2R^2\\right)\\end{bmatrix} $$\nnow in the event I should need $\\bf{I}{CM}$ I also get that out of the way and find that using the parallel axis theorem, $ I{1_{CM}} = I_{2_{CM}} = \\frac{3M}{20}(R^2+\\frac{h^2}{4}) = \\frac{3M}{80}\\left(4R^2+h^2\\right)$; and $ I_{3_{CM}} =\\frac{3M}{80}\\left(8R^2\\right)$ so that $$ \\bf{I}_{CM} = \\begin{bmatrix} \\frac{3M}{80}\\left(4R^2+h^2\\right) & 0 & 0 \\ 0 & \\frac{3M}{80}\\left(4R^2+h^2\\right) & 0 \\ 0 & 0 & \\frac{3M}{80}\\left(8R^2\\right)\\end{bmatrix} $$\ngreat. So it seems that I may use either the inertial frame OR the body frame, however this is where I'm getting confused. As I understand it, if I change my coordinates to the center of mass body coordinates, I will not need to consider the translational kinetic energy of the center of mass. But can I even do this here? In any event I find $v_{CM} = \\frac{3h}{4} \\cos(\\alpha)\\dot{\\phi}$ where $\\phi$ is the azimuthal angle about the fixed inertial $z$-axis, and I can find various relations for this based on the no-slipping condition though its not clear which I should want. Now that I have gotten most of the legwork done, I want to write my expression for the kinetic energy.", "402" ], [ "What's the Lagrangian for a freely rotating rod?\nThis is one of those problems that I thought would be easy, then spent forever on it and realized that I know nothing:\nA rigid rod of uniform density has mass $M$ and length $L$ and is free to rotate about its center without a fixed axis. Consider its center to be fixed at the origin of an inertial Cartesian coordinate system, and note that the position of the rod can be specified with the spherical coordinate angles $\\theta$ and $\\phi$. (Also assume zero gravity.)\n1. What is the Lagrangian of this system, in terms of the coordinates $\\theta$ and $\\phi$?\nFirst, I calculated the moments of inertia for rotation in the pure $\\theta$ and pure $\\phi$ directions. For $\\theta$, this is the usual $\\frac{1}{12}ML^2$, but $\\phi$ it becomes $\\frac{1}{12}ML^2\\sin^2\\theta$ assuming the rod is held at fixed $\\theta$.", "101" ], [ "Then I used $K_{rot}=\\frac{1}{2}I\\omega^2$ for each type of rotation and added the two:\n$$\\begin{align} L &= K-U \\ &= K_\\theta+K_\\phi-0 \\&= \\frac{1}{24} M L^2\\dot\\theta^2+ \\frac{1}{24} M L^2\\sin^2(\\theta) \\,\\,\\dot\\phi^2 \\end{align}$$\nMy main concern is that adding the two energies doesn't seem justified, so my next question is:\n1. If this is correct, why is adding these two energies justified?\nTo emphasize the concern, consider this: pure $\\theta$-rotation corresponds to $\\vec\\omega$ in one direction, while pure $\\phi$-rotation corresponds to $\\vec\\omega$ in another direction. These two vectors span only a plane, whereas in general $\\vec\\omega$ could point anywhere in 3D space, so it isn't at all clear that these angular coordinates simply \"add\" in a straightforward way.\nTrying to find the answer more rigorously, I calculated the inertia tensor (assuming at time $t=0$ the rod is lying in the $z$-$x$ plane) and tried to use $K_{rot}=\\frac{1}{2}\\vec\\omega \\cdot (\\tilde{I} \\vec\\omega)$. This leads to my final and most deceptively difficult question:\n1. What is $\\vec\\omega$ in terms of $\\theta$, $\\dot\\theta$, $\\phi$, and $\\dot\\phi$?\nAlso if there is a cleaner or more straighforward approach for solving this problem, I'd love to know about it!", "101" ] ]

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[ [ "Balrog Glowing Flames\nIntroduction: Balrog Glowing Flames\nSo i had this 3d printing file of balrog for a while now and i didnt know what kind of project to make with it until i saw the Hot Glue competition. That's when i got the inspiration to make the flames on the back of the balrog glow from flexible LEDs filaments and use silicone glue to shape the flames. The balrog model is holding a flame sword and i modified the file so that the balrog will be holding his glowing flaming whip which we can also use the flexible LED filaments.\nIn order to power all the LEDs, im going to modified the balrog base and put a powerbank with a switch on it. As usual all modifications was done using Tinkercad and 3d printed. This time i'm using a mix of normal FDM 3d printer and a DLP resin 3d printer. Im using DLP resin printer cause the model is only 18cm-ish and the detail will be lost if im using FDM printer.\nDifficulty level:\n1. 3D printing - Easy\n2. Assembly - Intermediate (we'll be using hot glue gun.. need to be careful of hot silicone glue)\n3. Wiring - Easy\n4. Painting - Intermediate (we'll be using a mix of airbrushing and normal brush)\nP.S. getting the wiring to fit into the model channel is gonna be challenging..\nSo lets get started..\nSupplies\n1. LED flexible filaments- 26cm long x 2\n2. TP4056, DC-DC buck converter - USB to lithium battery with protection\n3. Lithium battery 18650 3.7v\n4. Lithium battery 18650 1 cell holder\n5.", "231" ], [ "Wires - AWG24\n6. Wires - AWG18\n7. Rocker switch 2pins - 15x10mm\n8. M3 screw - 8mm or 10mm\n9. 0.8mm tinned copper wire - 30cm long\n10. Silicone glue & glue gun\n11. Mini flame torch\n12. Soldering iron (to connect the LED & PCB to the wires)\n13. Airbrush set with colors\nAnd of course a FDM 3d printer and DLP Resin 3d printer to print all the parts.. all part will be able to fit into a 200x200mm printer..\nStep 1: 3D Printing All Parts\nI will only share parts of the balrog model that I modified myself for the wiring and LED flames.\n* https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5428420\n* https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/balrog-glowing-flames\nthe rest of the STL parts can be bought from the original designer here:\n* cults3d\n* cgtrader\nThe body i 3d printed using a DLP resin printer (Mono X) while the base is printed on FDM printer (ENDER 5Plus). you can print all the parts using FDM or DLP whichever your preference.\nOnce all the parts are printed, you'll need to cleanup all the supports.\nStep 2: Wiring\nIn this step we're gonna feed the wires through the channel i made on the body parts.\nBefore we do that, see the diagram for the wiring of the LEDs to the battery powerbank. Both flexible LEDs will be wired parallel to the USB lithium converter.\nThere are 3 body parts that will need wiring running throught them\n1. Tail & body - AWG24 or AWG18\n2. Right hand - AWG24 only\nYou can use AWG24 wires to run all the channel but you cant use AWG18 since the wire is too big to feed into the right hand.\nWhen you wire the body to tail to powerbank, make sure to have a lot of slack for easy wiring later on.. i added like 15cm extra wire that came out of the tail..\nRun a set of wires from the right hand to the back of the body and run another set of wires from the tail to the back of the body. The right hand channel is slightly small so you'll have to wiggle the wires until it runs though the channel\nThe wire that comes out of the tail needs a lot of slack so it can go thought the base and connect to the powerbank.\nStep 3: Base With Powerbank\nMaking the powerbank is quite straight forward.\nBase on the picture you should be able to understand how i wired everything.\nMake sure to solder all the wires connected to the USB charger first before anything else.\nThe rocker switch should be last.\nI glued everything down using silicone glue to keep them in place.\nOnce done..", "996" ], [ "Rebel X-Wing\nIntroduction: Rebel X-Wing\nHello everyone,\nThis is my version of Star Wars Rebel X-Wing that weaves from side to side that was fully created using Tinkercad. I got my inspiration from a youtube video someone made using Legos so i thought i would make a 3D printed version of it.\nI made the mechanism using gears to move the aircraft left and right. The whole system is motorized by a N20 DC5v geared motor with a micro USB board to connect the power.\nYou can find more of my 3d printing stuff at https://www.instagram.com/fay3dlab/ or https://www.myminifactory.com/users/Fay3DLabs\nSupplies\nHere's what you need:\n1. N20 DC 5V 15RPM or 20RPM (depends on how fast you want the x-wing to weave left right)\n2. Rocker switch 2pin - 15mm x 21mm\n3. Micro USB breakout board\n4. Dupont jumpers and wires to connect them all together\n5. M3 screws - 8mm & 20mm\nand of course a 3d printer.. any 200x200mm bed will work..\nStep 1: Designing the Whole Project Using Tinkercad\nThe design project is divided into 3 section:\n1. The gears itself\n2. The movement mechanism\n3. The x-wing\nMost of my time was spent getting the gear and mechanism to work together right.. a lot of back and forth printing and prototyping.. since i'm not an engineer everything i did was based on visuals and a touch of logic.. so forgive me if im using the wrong terms or names..\n1- Gears\nSince the motor i was gonna use is 20RPM, i had to slow the speed rotation about 2 or 3 times to around 6-7RPM.. so that mean i needed to use gears.\nI started making the gears with 12 teeths since that is the easiest to count and divide into degrees.. and made the bigger gears in set of 12.. 24.. 36.. the motor uses the 12 teeth and the gear that drives the mechanism uses 36 teeths.. tried using 24 teeth but it was still too fast and the whole thing wobbles too much.\nThe gears was made using boxes.. added some radius and steps to get a smooth edge and cut the top and bottom to get nice teeths for the gear..", "949" ], [ "rotate and duplicate them every 30 degrees and you get your 12 teeth gear.. resize the box and repeat until you get your 24 and 36 teeths gear..\n2- Moving mechanism\nthe whole mechanism transfer the rotation from the motor into a linear left right movement that in returns makes the aircraft sway left and right. since we cant put animations on tinkercad.. i had to duplicate shadow to simulate when it moves to get the right calculation movements\n3- Making the base and X-wing\nI design the base for the aircraft around the motor and mechanism and added some design to look like the deathstar's surface.. i also imported SVG files of the logo and star wars text and added into the base design. I had to add extensions front and back of the base to make it heavier.. its optional if you dont want to add them..\nmaking the x-wing itself was a lot of fun.. i pretty much made it like carving onto a block of wood and bollean/group them into the shapes i wanted. I did have problems with the laser cannon on the wings.. since its too thin.. it kept breaking from the slightest touch.. in the end i separated the cannon and the wings.. so if you break off your laser cannnon you just have to reprint them and not the whole aircraft.\nAll 3d model stl can be found here at https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-rebe...\nStep 2: Base & Electronic Assembly\nThere a total of 23 3d printed parts divided into 2 sections.. the base mechanism and the x-wing..\ntip: i recommend to prepare the electronics first before assembly so you dont have to go back and forth.. i used dupont jumpers to seperate the motor from the usb board and rocker switch.\nAssembly of the mechanism is quite straight forward but its a bit tricky to fit everything together..\n1. 1st step is to screw the 2 front extension with logo to the front base.. it need to be screwed from the inside with m3 20mm screws.. 4 of them\n2. add the small gear and the wires onto your motor before installing it into the base.. the gear should have a tight fit.. if not glue them in.. once done put the motor into the motor holder and screw in place on the base.. you'll need a m3 8mm screw..\n3.", "226" ], [ "Aliens Movie Book Nook Diorama\nIntroduction: Aliens Movie Book Nook Diorama\nI've been meaning to do a diorama from the movie \"Aliens\" since i bought STL files of the aliens xenomorph and i wanted to make a diorama out of it.. but i didnt want to make a big diorama piece because i dont have anymore room on my display shelves.. as always, while surfing youtube i found one of my favorite youtuber maker made a book nook.. and that's where the idea for the book nook diorama came in.. its compact and easy to make and it can fit right in my bookshelves..\ni took reference images from the movie and try to recreate the scene as best I can.. I split the book nook into 2 parts..\n1. upper floor hallway\n2. underground sewers\n<PERSON> and <PERSON> will be on the upper floor hallway trying to runaway while being chased by aliens from below the underground sewers.\nI added lights on the hallway's railings and overhead ceiling for the upper floor while a dim flickering lights from the underground sewers.. Lights from the railing cast shadow on the floor grills and slightly lit up the sewers..\nThis is my first instructables that include outside 3d models that i brought to fill in the diorama.. links to buy the models can be found below..\nand so for this instructable, most of the build i will be using tinkercad screenshots..\nYou can find more of my 3d printing stuff at https://www.instagram.com/fay3dlab/ or https://www.myminifactory.com/users/Fay3DLabs\nDifficulty level:\n1. 3D printing - Easy (almost all parts printed without support)\n2. Assembly - Easy\n3. Wiring - Easy\n4. Painting - Easy\nso let's us begin..\nSupplies\n1. Plywood 3mm thick - 40cm x 40cm\n2. MDF 3mm thick - 10cm x 25cm\n3. LED light strips 5v - white or warm (your preference)\n4. LED diode lights\n5. LED flickering lights\n6. 47ohm resistor\n7. Electrical Connector Block\n8. TP4056, DC-DC buck converter - USB to lithium battery with protection\n9. Lithium battery 18650 3.7v\n10.", "492" ], [ "Lithium battery 18650 1 cell holder\n11. Wires - AWG24\n12. Rocker switch 2pins - 15x10mm\n13. Super glue & glue gun\n14. Soldering iron (to connect the LED & PCB to the wires)\n15. Epoxy resin - around 300g\n16. Resin coloring - blue and green\nAnd of course a 3d printer to print all the parts.. all part will be able to fit into a 200x200mm printer.. and a resin printer to print all the miniature characters..\nIf you do not own a 3d printer.. I'm also selling the 3d printed parts as well as the electronics on my ETSY page..\nStep 1: 3D Modelling Book Nook With Tinkercad\nUpper floor Hallway\nThe model of the upper floor is quite straight forward.. i added a channel gap on the railing to add led strips and on the ceiling as well to run wires for the ceiling LED.\nUnderground Sewer\nThe sewer is the best part for me since i always wanted to play with epoxy resin and make the sewer look like its filled with sewer water. I also added a corner wall to hide the LED in the background of the sewer so the light will fill in the background with Aliens on the foreground\nI also added a gap at the bottom of the sewer to add all the electronics and closed it with a grill from the front\nStep 2: Book Nook Assembly\nThe assembly divided into 3 parts:\n1. the plywood case\n2. the 3d printed environment\n3. the wiring\nThe case for the whole book nook im using a thin 3mm plywood board.. i brought them in 45x45cm size here in my country.. and i just need to cut them to size.. you can use any board you like that is durable enough to hold the whole book nook upright..\nThe side panels will be 25x20cm and the top & bottom is 10x20cm.. The back panel im using 3mm MDF board measuring at 24.4x10cm\nPaint the panels before assembly..\nStep 3: 3D Printed Diorama\nThe diorama splits into 2 part.. the upper hallway and the underground sewer\nAll 3d model stl can be found here:\n1. <PERSON>\n2. Myminifactory\n3. Alien Xenomorph - from gambody.", "996" ], [ "PodRacer Automata\nIntroduction: PodRacer Automata\nHello again everyone.. I'm back after a long hiatus with a new/upgrade automata from my X-wing automata i did a few months ago.. i have been getting feedback from you guys to add lights.. and here we are with a new weaving automata of the famous podracing scene from Star Wars Episode I on tatooine..\nI've gotten these flexible LED filaments for a while now but i haven't gotten any ideas on what to do with them until i saw a youtuber made a podracer using the same kind of LED filaments.. and i thought it would be a good idea to incorporate it to my weaving automata..\nI've also wanted to upgrade the automata to use an internal powerbank that can be charged using USB.. As always, everything was design using Tinkercad and 3D printed..\nYou can find more of my 3d printing stuff at https://www.instagram.com/fay3dlab/ or https://www.myminifactory.com/users/Fay3DLabs\nDifficulty level:\n1. 3D printing - Easy (almost all parts printed without support)\n2. Assembly - Easy\n3. Wiring - Intermediate (wiring needs to be done in sequence)\n4. Painting - Easy\nP.S. if you have a large hands like mine.. this project just leveled up to a intermediate difficulty.. ahahahaa.. i used the tweezers a lot..\nSo lets get started..\nSupplies\n1. N20 dc motors - 25-50rpm (depend on how fast you want it to weave)\n2. Electrical Connector Block\n3. TP4056, DC-DC buck converter - USB to lithium battery with protection\n4. Lithium battery 18650 3.7v\n5. Lithium battery 18650 1 cell holder\n6. Wires - AWG24\n7. Rocker switch 2pins - 15x10mm\n8. M3 screw - 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 25mm\n9. 3mm brass tube - 20cm long x 2\n10. Lubricant - grease\n11. LED flexible filaments - 30cm long x 3\n12.", "949" ], [ "Single LED from 5v LED strip\n13. Duponts connectors\n14. Glue & glue gun\n15. Soldering iron (to connect the LED & PCB to the wires)\nAnd of course a 3d printer to print all the parts.. all part will be able to fit into a 200x200mm printer.. you will need transparents filaments for the lights to emit from..\nIf you do not own a 3d printer.. I'm also selling the 3d printed parts as well as the electronics on my ETSY page..\nStep 1: Modelled Everything With Tinkercad\nThe modelling is divided into 3 parts:\n1. Base\n2. Engine\n3. Cockpit\nBase\nThe base was modified from my original X-wing automata with a few upgrades. The new base still uses the same gears and motor except i have split the motor mounting and the holder gear separately. I also extended the original base to fit in a 18650 battery holder. I also added wire holders around the box for easy wire routing.\nSince we're doing the podracing from tatooine.. I design the base case with cliff and canyon design to hide the base.\nEngine\nThe engine was design based on a lightsaber.. i use the lightsaber as an inspiration for the engine design and added a few touches to make it look like a podracer engine.. At first i thought the power coupling LED was enough but looking at the engine design.. there was a few places that i could make it glow with the LEDs..\nIn my original design.. i wanted to add a motor inside the engine to make the fan spins on the front.. the flickering lights would add to the illusion of the engine moving but after i made some calculations.. i didnt have enough power from the powerbank to power 3 motors.. so i had to scrap the motor ideas on the engine.. but the design for the motor mount and fan is still in the engine..\nWhen i brought the flexible LED filament it came in packs of 10pcs so i might as well use them in the engine too.. i modelled an internal light holder that will hold the LED and connect all the wires together..\nCockpit\nThe cockpit design was slap together using a few beveled boxes and cones in tinkercad.. i did not have any ideas on the design of the cockpit except that i wanted lights in cockpit.. The cockpit and the engine was joined together using a brass tube where i can add wires in the tube for the cockpit led light..", "997" ], [ "ATAT Motorized Automata\nIntroduction: ATAT Motorized Automata\nHello again everyone, from my last project I just started to learn about making automata using tinkercad and I was hooked. Now i present to you my new automata project the Star Wars 4-legged ATAT.\nI made the diorama/automata from the battle of hoth scene from episode V where <PERSON> was on a snowspeeder and tries to takedown an ATAT by harpooning its legs.\nI made the base for all the mechanism to look like an ice wall since its on Hoth Ice planet.\nThe automata consist of the ATAT's 4 legs walking, head turning sideways and the snowspeeder circling around the ATAT. It will be powered by 2x N20 motors and an internal powerbank to power it.\nPlease take note that this is an intermediate level project so be vigilant when assembling the automata.\nYou can find more of my 3d printing stuff at https://www.instagram.com/fay3dlab/ or https://www.myminifactory.com/users/Fay3DLabs\nSupplies\n1. N20 dc motors - 15-20rpm x2\n2. Electrical Connector Block\n3. TP4056, DC-DC buck converter - USB to lithium battery with protection\n4. Lithium battery 18650 3.7v\n5. Lithium battery 18650 1 cell holder\n6. Wires - AWG24\n7. Rocker switch 2pins - 15x10mm\n8. M3 screw - 8mm, 12mm, nut\n9. Lubricant - grease\n10. glue\nand of course a 3d printer to print all the parts.. all part will be able to fit into a 200x200mm printer\nStep 1: Modelling Everything With Tinkercad\nThe modelling was all done using tinkercad and was split into 3 sections\n1. The leg mechanism\n2. The speeder circling mechism\n3.", "949" ], [ "The head turn mechanism\nAll 3 mechanism uses different types of gears. I did a lot of research on gears to see what works for each mechanism.\n1-Leg mechanism\nAll 4 legs are powered by a single N20 motor that is connected very intricately with gears to rotate both clockwise and counter clockwise to help with a smooth rotation.\n2- Speeder mechanism\nthe speeder would circle the whole base and atat so i made 4 post from the base to hold onto a 90 teeth ring gear.\n3- The atat head turns\nAt first i wanted to use a single motor to power the whole automata but that means i had to make a gear mechanism that would transfer rotation power from the base to the ATAT body and head. Althought i got it to work, the torque that the motor was turning was too powerful that the 3d printed parts was starting to break apart. In the end I added another N20 motor in the atat body to make the head turns\nAfter all the mechanism was completed, I concerntrated on making the ATAT details. Learning from past experience from the x-wing, I separated all the laser cannon so if 1 broke, you dont need to print the whole head again.\nModelling the ATAT was the easy part. after that i separated all the parts for easy 3d printing. If you have a very tuned 3d printer, you wont need to support a lot of the parts.\nAs always, all 3d stl models can be found here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4967877 or https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-atat-motorize-automata-185990 or https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/atat-motorized-automata\nStep 2: Assembling the Automata\nThe assembly stages will be divided into 9 parts:\n1. Motor mount\n2. Center gear mount\n3. Leg gear mount\n4. Ring gear mount\n5. Powerbank and motor wiring\n6. Base complete\n7. ATAT body and head gear\n8. ATAT legs\n9. Snowspeeder assembly\nThe base mount assembly has a lot of intricate parts and needs to be done step by step for it to be able to work together\ntip: you might want to paint the ATAT and base before assembly to make painting easier\nStep 3: Assembly - Motor Mount\nThe motor mount is a straight forward assembly.\nIt would work easier if you solder the wiring for motor before assembly. Make sure that the wiring is made so that the motor would turn clockwise.\nInsert a nut into the gear and screw using m3 8mm..", "784" ], [ "Ghostbusters Neon Sign Tutorial\nIntroduction: Ghostbusters Neon Sign Tutorial\nIn this tutorial i try to go step by step trough this more complex build.\nIn order to get this thing made you will need a K40 Laser cutter or a bigger machine.\nIf you have a 3D printer you can read tru this tutorial to gather some useful informations aswell.\nI rate this project to be an advanced one!\nYou will need knowledge about Corel Draw, Laser cutting and Soldering.\nSupplies\nK40 Laser Cutter\na copy of Corel Laser (Corel Draw 12)\nLED Neon Strips in the colors of choice (to be found on ebay)\na sheet of black or transparent acrylics\nSoldering iron\nLitz wire (thin electric cable)\nTweezers, plyers and things that help to squeeze in the LED strip to the acrylic sheet\n9v Power Supply or a 12v Power Supply & 6 x 10 ohms Resistors\nSuplerglue Gel & Activator Spray\nStep 1: Getting the Measurements\nFirst i need to get the measurements of the LED strip material. I measured it to be 5mm wide with a caliper without squeezing it together. This LED stuff is very flexible.\nSo i cut me a template to see wich width is best to hold the LED strips in place without the need of squeezing them to much. Mind that acryllics may break when the gaps are to narrow.\nFor this LED strips 4.8 - 4.9mm seems to work best in my case.\nStep 2: Before We Get Started\nYou can basicly use almost every Logo there is BUT there are some very important points i want to meantion before we get started:\nFirst: Think about making it a two part design from the beginning.\nIf you are working with a K40 Laser as i do, you are very tight on space as the LED Strips can only be cut every 25mm. so the shortest dot or line in your design will be 25mm long unless you paint parts of it black to blackout a spot. However every segment needs to be soldered later on and of course the shorter the segment the stiffer the LED strip is what can cause problems later in the build when squeezing the segments in place.", "635" ], [ "So under some circumstances it will be reasonable to make it bigger and make it two parts that can be glued or screwed together.\nLeave enough space between each section of led strip so as a thick contour that surrounds the design. Bending the led strips applies tension onto the acrylics in all different directions and the tension adds up, specially where multiple strips are located close together there is a high risk of breaking the acylics.\nAcrylics can be glued nicely with superglue gel. But i suggest you Get you some activator spray!\nGive each LED segment a directional marking before cutting it i to pieces, so you know witch side to solder later.\nThe led strips soldering pads give you 4mm of margin, 2 mm to every side from the printed on cutting line. Only cut away the pads on the side you are not willing to solder to\nSolder the segments before squeezing them into the actyllic sheet as they are a pain to get out again.\nStep 3: Corel Draw 12\nMy K40 Laser came with a copy of Corel Draw 12 and a plug in called Corel Laser.\nThis is an old version that has some bugs and missing features but to my knowledge the only version that is compatible with the plug in.\nIn order to get our design started we need to install a Macro that gives us information about the line length!\nIn my Youtube video i explain in detail how to \"install\" it. Is is nothing very complicated nor time consuming.\nWith the Macro installed i start my design with a circle.\nIn the video i made the mistake of making it to big! Keep in mind that later in the design we need to draw an outer contour line what takes away almost 10mm in total. So keep the design 10-15mm smaller than the size of the Laserbed for now.\nStep 4: Simple But Important Math\nIn order to make a design where the LED strip will fit in we need to draw every line in a certain length.\nThe LED strip is cuttable every 25mm so every line needs to be dividable by 25.\nThis is why we have installed this Macro before.\nThe circle i adjusted to the size of the laserbed has a line length of 694mm.\n694 / 25 = 27,76\nAs this circle already comes close to the limit of the K40 i bring it down to 27.\n27x25= 675\nI need to bring down the size of this circle until the line length is 675mm, so that the Led strip will fit exactly later in the build.\nIm my case setting X and Y to 215mm gives the magic number.", "635" ], [ "Modular Marble Run\nIntroduction: Modular Marble Run\nHello everyone,\nThis is a modular marble run I created using tinkercad after seeing a similar one somewhere on the internet.. I thought I can make one myself using a 3d printer..\nI design the cube to be the main structure to hold on to the tracks so you can make whatever design you'd like..\ni use 5mm magnetic balls that is inserted into the cube frames to help snap the cubes together when assembling any design for the tracks..\nyou could also use clips i design to hold the cubes together if you dont want to use the magnetic balls\nThe marble run currently only have 4 tracks.. slope.. straight.. turn.. and u-turn.. I'll be updating more tracks later on..\nYou can find more of my 3d printing stuff at https://www.instagram.com/fay3dlab/ or https://www.myminifactory.com/users/Fay3DLabs\nSupplies\nmarbles - 16mm diameter marbles.. u can also use ball bearings of the same size to give it an extra speed due to weight\nglue - a lot of glue.. cause you're gonna need to make a lot of this cubes\n5mm magnetic balls - its optional and you gonna need a lot of it too..\nStep 1: Designing the Cube and Tracks Using Tinkercad\nThe first thing i needed to model was the cube.. i made the design repetitive so that you only need to print one frame 4 times to assemble into a cube.. i also made notches on the middle of the cube frame to help hold the tracks in the middle and can snap on the clip if needed.\nThe frame have 2 holes on each side to insert 5mm magnetic balls in them.. using magnetic balls in the cubes give it a snapping together for easy design and building your tracks.. i learn the magnetic balls trick from making a lot of dungeon tiles which also have magnetic balls in them for easy snap together.\nBy using magnetic balls.. your magnet polar is free to rotate any direction and when assemble together with other cubes..", "836" ], [ "it wont have restriction in +ve or -ve polar that may repel the cubes rather than snapping it together..\nUsing tinkercad.. i also model different tracks by making a standard size and location of each tracks.. once i got the measurement of each tracks i had to export the tracks into another 3d software to smooth out the tracks..\nCorner turn track was the hardest to get right since the track needs to be tilted so that the marble wont run out of the track..\nAll 3d model stl can be found here https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-1711...\nStep 2: Cube Assembly\nThe assembly of the cube is quite straight forward since there is only one model and it needs to be 3d printed a lot..\nIf you're thinking of inserting a magnetic ball inside the frame of the cube.. you will need to insert one magnetic ball inside and one outside of the frame is to hold the balls so they dont fall off when you're trying to glue it together or so that the balls wont touch the frame that has glue on it.\nHave a look at the video on the trick i used to insert the balls into the frame and glueing it together..\n*tip - 3d print a lot of the cubes so you wont have to assemble and dissamble the tracks to reuse it..\nStep 3: Marble Run Tracks\nSo there are 4 tracks currently that i have modelled:\n1. straight\n2. slope down\n3. corner turn\n4. u-turn\nstraight only uses 1 cube but i also made a longer version that uses 2 cubes.. 3 is kinda far fetch since the marble will run out of momentum if its too long..\nslope down uses 3 cubes and is a bit tricky to asemble.. the main body of the slope needs to snap into one of the cube.. using clips to hold the cubes together is good idea so it wont break apart..\ncorner turn also uses 3 cubes.. depending on your printer the edge of each track sometimes lift a bit and wont align with other tracks.. my solution would be to glue the edge of the track to the cubes..\nu-turn uses 2 cubes only and fairly straight forward asembly\n*tip - 3d print a lot of the cubes so you wont have to assemble and dissamble the tracks to reuse it..\nStep 4: Conclussion\nIts really fun to create the tracks and have the marble go through it.. using a ball bearing makes the run a lot faster and it requires different track design since its heavier and have more momentum when going down the tracks.\nCurrently i'm also working on a spiral lift so that the marble run would loop on the tracks.. its gonna use a SG90 servo motor and 3 AA battery that will fit into one cube..", "836" ], [ "3D Printed LED Mood Lamp\nIntroduction: 3D Printed LED Mood Lamp\nI've always had this fascination with lamps, so having the ability to combine 3D Printing and Arduino with LEDs was something I needed to pursue.\nThe concept is very simple and the outcome is one of the most satisfying visual experiences you can put in a lamp format.\nPlease bear in mind that this was my first ever Arduino project, so not everything might be as perfect or as efficient as it could be, but it works. I'll get better with more practice :)\nIf you want the visual version of these instructions, please see the youtube video, and while you're there, make sure to subscribe to see my other projects :)\nEnjoy!\nStep 1: Safety\nYes, I know, but it can never be stressed enough!\nThis project involves soldering and the use of a hot glue gun which brings with it the possibility of burns. So please make sure you are comfortable using a soldering iron or ask for help from someone who does.\nIt is also recommended to use protective goggles for eye protection.\nPlease take all necessary precautions in order to complete the project safely and also have fun!\nStep 2: Things You'll Need\nPrinted Parts\nThe files for the model from MyMiniFactory: Link\nThe outer cover for the lamp should be printed in white PLA. I used Filamentive Natural Transparent as it diffuses the light nicely and also doesn't block it. The outer shell should be printed at 0% infill, 2 perimeters, 10 bottom, and 10 top layers.Any layer height is good, i used 0.2mm layers.\nThe bottom and inner column can be printed at pretty much any settings you wish (without supports).\nI used Petg for the column as it can withstand heat better than PLA.", "492" ], [ "I used 20% infill, 2 perimeters and 4 top and bottom layers. No supports are necessary.\nThe bottom was printed in wood filament at 0.2mm layers, 2 perimeters, 4 top and bottom layers and 20% infill.\nThe tint button extention was printed in standard black PLA at 100% infill as it's very small.\nElectronics\nArduino Nano: Link\nLM2596 DC-DC Step Down: Link\nTactile Touch Push Button: Link\nDC Jack: Link\n5v 30mm fan (Optional): Link\n2 Meters RGB LED Strip (WS2812B - 60 LED per Meter): Link\nPower Supply: Link\nSome Red, Black, Yellow wires: Link\n2 x M3x12 Screws: Link\n2 x M2x10 Self Tapping Screws: Link\nSketch for all light effects: Link\nTools\nHot Glue Gun: Link\nSoldering Iron: Link\nMultimeter: Link\n3D Printer (Obviously) with at least 200mm volume in height - too many to choose from. however, if you're in the market for one, I highly recommend the Prusa MK3s or if you want something more budget-friendly, the Creality Ender 3 is also pretty decent\nStep 3: Wiring Diagram\nThis is the complete wiring diagram for lamp.\nThe fan is not necessary. I designed it to counteract any possible heating from the LEDs, however, since you will most likely not use full brightness chances of the LEDs getting that hot to melt PETg are impossible.\nIf you are printing the LED column with PLA though and thinking of leaving it running for prolonged periods, the fan will definitely help in keeping things cool.\nStep 4: LED Strip and Fan Assembly\n* Solder a black, red and yellow wires to the end of the LED strip.\n* The Black wire should go on the GND pad\n* The Red wire should go on the +5v pad\n* The Yellow wire should go on the Din pad\nNOTE: take note of the direction of the arrow on the LED strip. The wires should be soldered with direction of the arrow not against it as in the photo.\n* Insert the 3 wires through the whole at the bottom of the column and pull them all the way through.\n* Remove the sticker cover from the back of the LED strip and attach the strip to the column in a spiral direction going upwards. 2 meters should be enough to cover the whole column while leaving around 2mm space between the rotation of the strip.\n* Take the hot glue gun, and just put a little dab of hot glue at the end of the strip and also at the beginning to hold both the strip and the wires in place.\n* if you are installing the fan, place it at the bottom of the column as in the photo and attach it using the 2 M3x12 screws.\nNOTE: The orientation of the fan is important.", "635" ] ]

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[ [ "Tokyo Clash Review\nEditorial note: I use the terms Kaiju and Daikaiju in equal amounts in this review.\nKaiju = Monster. Daikaiju = Giant Monster. Daikaiju is more accurate nomenclature, though simply using kaiju to describe giant monsters is growing to be part of common parlance in English. Consider them to have the same definition and interchangeable.\nIntroduction and Conclusion:\nIf you are a fan of corny yet somehow charming Daikaiju movies, despite their best efforts at cinematic self-sabotage, you may have often found yourself daydreaming of being in the middle of your own urban rampage. Idle fantasies of terrorizing various denizens on the island of Honshu while battling other titanic monstrosities which are just as ridiculous as you, then you likely live a life of disappointment in a long line of games that have promised you heady excitement, only for it to miserably fail to deliver after you have listened to its slowly expressed box fart.\nYou may have even likely grown to believe that since you are a daikaiju fan, that you don't deserve anything more than garbage shoveled on to you. Always waiting for this dysfunctional cycle to end in hopes of a healthy relationship to finally come your way after enduring such sublime pain, for so very long. You may even feel a special sense of personal value for being a self imposed martyr. It's an easy trap to fall into.\nJoining support groups so that you may discuss what is wrong with a specific kaiju game. Yet never discussing what is right about a game, since you have never had any healthy examples of what that would or could be. So, you remain locked in a dysfunctional feedback loop, fated to remain in negativity.\nYou see all these other thematic settings getting adequate and engaging game designs attached to them. Medieval marine mercantilism, fashion designers, gem dealers, lemmings, comic book super heroes, fjords of Norway, birdwatching, etc... The list is as limitless as the human desire to convey imagination and creativity.\n\"But, what about me?!?\" I hear you cry, dear kaiju enthusiast? When are you going to get your turn to be treated well? Where is your cure for attachment disorder?\nIs Tokyo Clash the game you can bring home to meet your family? Secretly hoping that this will become something long term, and not embarrassing for you to admit that you enjoy?\nThe short answer is, 'yes'.\nYou may now strike a pose and do a victory dance.", "504" ], [ "Go ahead, dear kaiju fan. You deserve it.\nThis is the kaiju game that will make you a healthier kaiju fan, and help you realize that you too deserve to be treated well. That you deserve to be happy. That you are an integral part of the world, just like those Renaissance farmers and ancient Peruvian astronomers. You belong, and are wanted. *rubs patchouli on your third eye chakra*\nTokyo Clash gives daikaiju fans what they should expect. Urban brawling, throwing each other and various human constructed items at each other for dominance and coaxing egos that match our gargantuan heights. Where you are inexplicably drawn to the middle of human habitations, like moths drawn to a flame, demolishing these cities and leaving wastelands in your wake. The game's complexity has a low demand on your mental real estate, which would otherwise prevent you from dedicating some space for fun, like imitating battle growls of your favorite daikaiju, laughing hysterically at the ludicrous fun of being part of a small group of 600 ton bullies amongst a colony of ants. Tokyo Clash doesn't require being a kaiju fan to enjoy it. In fact, I am willing to place wagers that this game is good enough to be the catalyst to create daikaiju fans.\nMy final rating of Godzilla: Tokyo Clash is 8.5 out of 10.\nI enjoy it immensely and look forward to taking it with me to board game meet ups in hopes of finding other people who will join me in unleashing some titanic temper tantrums in Tokyo, and will never turn down a game. I am even supplementing the game on my own by adding 3-dimensional replacements for various bits to enhance the suspension of disbelief, investing even more money/time/and thought into this game whose design has exceeded my expectations.\nThe following is the why and how I have come to those conclusions:\nPhysical representation of the setting:\nStarting with the box cover, we are thrown into fan service for the genre as seen from a westerner’s perspective after it has been smuggled into the west for our consumption. Everything is in English, and this is an entirely English language product.", "504" ], [ "This review was originally posted at Player Elimination, my weekly board game editorial site.\nYou couldn’t miss it. As I walked up to my front porch, slouched and tired from not enough sleep and more than enough work, the large package was sitting there. This isn’t an unusual sight as cardboard shipping boxes containing cardboard gaming boxes arrive weekly at my suburban dwelling. This one was different because it was unexpected.\nI hurried inside lifting with my legs instead of my back, and laid the thing out on my dining room table with a pietistic moment of silence.\nA careful slice of the knife and there it was, that sleek black and gold cover staring me in the eyes with all the atmosphere of an <PERSON> directed game of chess.\nThis happens often. I toss a wad of cash into the pot of a Kickstarter campaign and several years later a game arrives unexpectedly. It’s like a subscription box that delivers once a year and takes your arm as recompense.\nYou may have heard of the 7th Continent (cue church bells, doves, and <PERSON>). It raised eight million dollars over two crowdfunding campaigns and has received much acclaim. As an experience it abandons players on an island and has you working together to lift a cryptic curse. And everyone absolutely loves it.\nFor good reason too. In many respects this is the ultimate exploration game as you cut through jungle, stumble through snow, and snarl in the face of the weirdest of beings. It’s captivating and overwhelming in the sheer amount of content you can discover over the course of play. One could literally set fire to the rest of their collection and dedicate themselves to the 7th Continent for the rest of the year. Probably the rest of all of your years.\nAlthough I don’t actually recommend that.\n[record scratch]\nNever have I so thoroughly committed myself to a game and felt so conflicted. This monstrosity in a box has provided me with double digit hours of wonderful discovery and adventure. It’s provided some really standup moments of shock and it continually surprised me with the elegance of its core ‘push your luck’ mechanism. In short, it’s a beautiful piece of design and an unparalleled experience – for 12 hours or so.\nThe 7th Continent thematically exists as a sort of heartbreak simulator. It accomplishes what Fog of Love couldn’t in that it presents a genuine emotional journey of courtship, love, consummation of that love, comfort, annoyance, aggravation, hate, and eventually divorce.", "504" ], [ "Yeah, that’s quite a bit of steps to unpack and work through. Relationships are complicated, yo.\nThe problem with a design predicated on exploration is that you need something to explore, something that will eventually be fully discovered and lose its purpose. Think about that for a moment. When the premise of your creation’s fun is in the process of discovery, the lifespan is outright limited. You’re working towards something, and that something is likely an unsatisfied ending. The damn finish line is the knife that’s going to kill you, not the 20 mile long trek.\nPeople like to throw around that special phrase ‘it’s not about the destination, it’s about the journey’. Usually to sort of couch disappointment in a revelation that’s not up to snuff. I watched Lost, I know disappointment.\nThe 7th Continent’s solution for this problem of terminus is to throw it all at you. Not just the kitchen sink, but the loofah, the hand towel, the tiles, and even the blackened grout between them. What feels like the entire run of Dominion, Legendary, and Thunderstone is all crammed into a single box where you must meticulously curate and file each card so as to make retrieval during play minimally painful. By giving you so damn much to explore and wade through, you’ll never hit that unsatisfying end-of-the-line where you look back and question your life choices – at least that’s the theory. And while everything is fresh and exciting, that pain of leafing through cards and maintaining a perfectly organized library will be subdued and easily covered up. Eventually fresh and exciting turns to rote and monotonous, end of the journey or not.\nThe island feels enormous in the early days. You’ll push through alien territory and encounter bizarre vegetation and bizarre-er lifeforms. You’ll hit breathtaking pieces of geography and your mind will race with possibility. It all feels so damn wide open and refreshingly free. You can do whatever you want and go wherever you’d like.\nThat’s the premise at least.", "558" ], [ "This is a companion piece to the review I wrote for Geek & Sundry. Given word count restrictions and format limitations, it was difficult to do proper service to such a significant release. If you want a general overview of the game and some of its strong points, read my G&S article. If you want a more nuanced take then hopefully the article below will satiate your hunger.\nTeenage Mutant Ninja Turtles: Shadows of the Past surprised the hell out of me. I came into it with shallow expectations courtesy of big name licensed properties soaring solely on nostalgia and not on the merits of the game design. Perhaps it was a mistake not taking into account the pedigree of a man who designed Doom: The Board Game, Arkham Horror, and Android. Perhaps my lack of expectations was actually a boon, allowing a shallow barrier of hope to be shattered by a <PERSON> skateboarding at Mach 3.\nThere's a lot going on in this game. You have asymmetrical protagonists with unique sets of dice, special abilities, multiple stats, and a selection of skill cards. You have a villain with a personal card activation system whose options are tailored by scenario. The environment you fight in appears somewhat simple, but is layered with tactical nuances that affect positioning and interaction. Play is framed up in a compelling narrative structure of linked scenes forming a comic. Each book progresses a greater story paralleled in the IDW series and gives you a sense of momentum. Innovative mechanisms are packed into every inch of this game and it's one of the most compelling tactical miniatures board games I've played.\nInnovation and success is most easily measured with a yardstick comprised of peers. Elements of this game can certainly be compared and even said to be directly influenced by those that came before it. Where it's most interesting is how it diverges from those progenitors and takes the experience to the next level.\nWhile my thoughts on the game are based entirely on retail content, I can't help but marvel at the ridiculousness of the works.\nLet's hit this from the top down and take a look at the Comic book scenario structure. It seems appropriate to compare this design to a pizza, in which case this framework of play would be the warm doughy crust that forms the foundation of deliciousness.\nThe retail package ships with four comics, each comprised of multiple branching scenarios. By breaking action into smaller vignettes of story, you can have meaningful movement in the narrative. Instead of play confining to a single map that you explore in a traditional dungeon crawl sense, you're kicking Foot butt and tearing up alleys over just a couple of tiles. Get in, hit your objective, and move on.\nThis scene-to-scene approach with the outcome influencing the next slice of action is not entirely new. We first saw this in the underrated 2016 release Dragon Tides.", "304" ], [ "This game lets you actually play <PERSON> and beat down thugs with frying pans and sewer lids. A session of play typically consists of playing through a movie book with linked scenes following that structure of a branching narrative.\nThe first time I played this I was floored. It's the main reason Dragon Tides stayed in my collection beyond review. This idea of linked scenarios is also seen in Descent and more closely in Imperial Assault. Playing through to completion within these designs requires an expenditure of a greater allotment of time. These games want you to commit to true campaigns of multiple sessions that reach maximum effectiveness with a static group.\nCleaning up the trash.\nThe idea of a campaign game is fantastic. I'm a huge fan of Kingdom Death: Monster and wouldn't trade out the length of experience. However, most standard designs really don't have the joy or satisfaction to keep you going. As a board gamer, you want to be in and out and have a compact, highly entertaining experience. Campaigns are great if they are continually hitting high notes, but more often than not they meander. For stretches of play you feel like a three-legged dog trying to keep up when all you want to do is hit the bed and take a rest. Story requires momentum and board games generally don't provide that over multiple plays.\nDragon Tides and TMNT: Shadows of the Past offer a clear and effective solution. The former ultimately failed to be truly special due to a lack of follow through on production which resulted in a solid single over the shortstop's head. The latter cracked the ball over the wall.\nShadows of the Past's achievement extends beyond the macro level. The play of each scenario is rewarding with a surprising amount of tactical depth. This is not Ghostbusters. This isn't even Descent. TMNT is its own animal: a seething green shell of aggression.\nThe cooperative dice system is a defining aspect of this design and it works really well. Cooperation is meaningful and the choices are interesting. Beyond that sharing mechanic is the use of symbols dictating the actions permitted.", "884" ], [ "Everyone loves a good bar. Bottom-shelf shots, double-fisting beers, and countless hours of brawling while calculating THAC0.\nThis concept began as a re-working and modernization of the classic 1980 Yaquinto title Swashbuckler. <PERSON> and family eventually came to the realization that the result was a different animal altogether. The Dragon & Flagon was born and gamers worldwide-well, at least those who attend my game nights-rejoiced.\nThis is a mechanically solid programming game with a very light and inviting theme. Don’t let the cheery artwork and cutesy 3D scenery (seriously, have you seen those mugs and chairs?) hoodwink you into thinking this is a light gateway game though. The engine behind the body has a stable full of horsepower and the entire package is quite clever.\nThe Dragon & Flagon - where the only thing that's spilled more than beer is blood.\nThe goal is to amass the most fame by bashing each other over the head with scenery. Every blow you land steals fame from the target and the hostess with the mostest at the final bell is the lord of the barroom brawl. It’s a simple concept executed with a relatively straightforward action programming structure.\nPlayers have a large hand of cards with mostly common actions and a few unique ones only their character can perform. In between each time segment, effectively a round, you program a card face down into your first and second action spaces. When your turn pops up you flip your first card and execute it.\nAfterwards you slide your second card down to the first slot and program a new card in position two. Your character marker jumps forward a number of spaces on the time track depending on the maneuver you executed, and then you await your next action. The time track itself has a slight Red October vibe, but thankfully the execution is much more interesting here.\nA cast that actually represents the variety of everyday life.\nI will say that for a silly and over the top theme the mechanical weight is heavier than you’d expect. Filling empty action slots, maneuvering a large hand of cards, fiddling with the time track, and managing lingering status affects-all of these can come across as occasionally cumbersome and take you out of the action. It gives the game a procedural feel at times where the action is segmented out in small dollops.\nFortunately the action is worth the wait. You pick up chairs or mugs, hop atop tables, literally yank rugs out from under drunk bystanders, and swing from chandeliers.", "755" ], [ "Any game where I can climb a table, get pelted by a thrown stein, and then leap off to kick the Paladin in the head has my vote.\nThe trick is that the conclusion of each action can be extremely satisfying and dramatic. You can pull off interesting combos like boasting your superiority and then landing a risky flying kick. The points pour in and your enemies lay in a pool of tears and ale.\nAdding to the flair is the very powerful unique special card each character possesses. You can only unlock this card if you grab the magical dragon flagon located at the center of the room. You’ll have to dive across tables, duck a few blows, and produce some fancy footwork to grab the thing, but it will certainly be worth it.\nWhen you trigger those special action cards you feel like a super hero. You’ll blast up a part of the bar with a cannon shot, react with blazing speed and avoid programming, or bring the power of god down upon the patrons. The rest of your crew will wish they slipped out before last call.\nBeyond those awesome dramatic moments the design ultimately triumphs because it knows how to pull off action programming, at least in a 2016 sense. The key to this genre is producing moments of chaos without feeling punishing. You need to maintain the balance between effectiveness and incompetence which produces humorous outcomes. Serving both in even doses is as difficult as balancing on one foot while half the bar is pelting you with mugs.\nThe Dragon & Flagon succeeds in this aspect because it’s undeniably smart. It keeps the programming to only two action cards so that you can continually adjust. When dazed from an attack, or when profusely chugging beer if you’re the pirate, you have to fill a third action slot. That amount of severity is perfect as it’s a penalty to have to think and plan ahead amid a scene full of chaos. Yet you never are excluded from participating or affecting the playing field.\nEven when you script an action that is not allowed, such as a throw when you don’t have anything in your hands, the game never slaps you down. You merely discard the card and progress one space on the time track, ready to act immediately again in the next round. It’s clever and refined and just feels right.", "237" ], [ "Waiting for a 'real' copy of this game to arrive at your doorstep has turned into an art in itself. The backers, how few they might be, do not tire to cheer at every update, however meager the actual news, and have bestowed upon me many a great time. If <PERSON> pops up in my subscriptions, I am always sure that something very entertaining awaits just one click away.\nHowever, suspiciously few has been said as to how this game plays, and that is a very free interpretation of the word 'few'. Actually, nothing of that kind has been said. People have, in an initial wave of untarnished hope, praised the artwork (something I never understood, but this is a matter of pure taste and shall not be a topic of this review). The sun and similar authorities (NASA, Carbon) have been accused of hindering the game's production, mostly by the producing one-woman-company itself. In a totally un-BGG-like fashion, gameplay was ignored completely in the bashing of this game. This got me interested.\nI spent quite a bit of time with the rulebook and the components, all of which are available as free high-res PnP on the creator's deviantart site, totaling over 60 pages, including backs and fiddly counters you need to carefully clip. Consider this a warning, really. You don't want to print this out unless you are absolutely certain you won't ever receive your copy of the published game. Or you missed the kickstarter, of course.\nLet me be absolutely clear: I own a full copy and have played many games. Not necessarily of Katalyka, though. But I feel sufficiently firm in the rules, as far as I was able to extract them from the rule book, to explain gameplay in terms at the same time broad and exact enough for you to grasp.\nThe rule book\nSeldom have I read one so nonsensical, open to interpretation and full of convoluted pseudo-philosophical and esoteric irrelevancies as this one. I have read ones that make less sense (Those who shall not be named) mind you, but none of them were quite as annoying. In a way that only the true esoteric can be.", "504" ], [ "It's a bit like reading Castaneda, but you aren't 16 and think it's cool because it gives you good reasons to do crazy mushroom drugs, no, this time you're your actual age and this guy is mostly mumbling incoherently. And you have to read it a few times over because in between half-swallowed words, there might hide some rule. So, please excuse my sometimes sketchy representation of the rules, if you think you have grasped them better, feel free to correct me.\nLet me give you a rundown of game play.\nGeneral gameplay\nAs one of the highly evolved cultures in this galaxy, you build an engine to transform boring Entropy into exciting Emotional Pathways that feed your Katalykas and allow you to crush your fellow higher beings. To do the latter, you roll dice. To do all of the former, you mostly buy cards and move around resource tokens. There is also a hex-grid-map representing the galaxy that serves some less-defined purpose.\nOn your turn, you collect Entropy (the main currency in this game) equal to what your Morale on your Culture mat and the Cellestial cards in your possession allow you. You may then spend your Entropy to acquire new cards for your tableau. About every card offers you new ways to spend Entropy or other currencies to acquire new cards or other resources. Unfortunately, there is not much real variation in what you can get by doing so and even less of that is of any use in winning the game. Some win conditions are quite a bit enigmatic, but in the most straightforward and least esoteric version you just want to crush everybody else and rule the galaxy. Yay, you might say. Wait for it, I might answer.\nCulture mats\nEach player starts the game with his own Culture mat. It gives access to some basic buy actions, one special ability buy action, has a bit of background story about who you are and what you want, a picture, and a tracker for your culture income, called Morale, that doubles as life points. If your Morale drops to zero, you see no reason to struggle any longer and are allowed to leave the game.\nThe cards\nYou acquire an awful lot of cards from three different decks. If you buy Cellestial and Katalyka cards, you need to represent their location in a hex on the map by placing a token there. Organica cards are linked to Cellestial cards by placing them next to each other.\nCards represented by tokens on the map need to be linked to each other by placing tiny bond tokens on the tiny hexes in between them.", "237" ], [ "Guardians of the Galaxy Vol. 3\nFull disclosure, I'm writing this review after watching this for a second time.\nI love <PERSON> broken space folks. His style of writing imperfect characters is something that I adore, as it injects a much needed element of humanity and pathos into even the most exaggerated creatures and concepts. Because everything is grounded in a sense of compassion, he's able to return to his Troma roots in the best ways. Because of this, Guardians 3 is pretty much my favourite MCU project and a perfect topper to this trilogy.\nEvery character arc comes full circle perfectly in a way that very few other MCU arcs have done (Endgame notwithstanding).", "387" ], [ "I'm so pleased with every concluding moment here. Even <PERSON>, who doesn't really have a character arc to speak of, instead gets to show off the full range of his powers in the best ways.\nCreature effects and eclectic designs are my cinematic catnip, so I was in heaven throughout this. The OrgoCorp sequence, Counter-Earth, and basically everything parallel to the High Evolutionary was filled to the brim with genuins designs and goopy, creepy effects. That's the kind of shit I love in movies, and <PERSON> went all-out for his final Marvel swing.\nThere's so much more I can praise about this, but it can basically all be boiled down to me loving everything about this. The alchemical mix of comedy to drama to sheer spectacle is perfected here, with not a single moment gone to waste in the structure of it all.\nI think this cements the trilogy as the best cape trio of films out there. I'll miss seeing this group in future projects, but with a conclusion this potent I'm happy they've been seen off in the best way possible.", "19" ], [ "<PERSON> and the Apocalypse\nI am sorry to report that this didn't quite hold up for me. The heart and effort are evident, but it feels amateurish in a way that isn't enduring. I suspect that because it reaches so highly, its seams and gaps in experience shows more.\nIt has big exuberant musical numbers!...that mostly feature singing people walking around and occasionally flinging themselves while background dancers do simplistic choreography.\nIt's well lit and is in a fancy narrow space ratio!...that I suspect hides the fact that the movie is pretty flatly shot and has little visual personality.\nOn top of all this, it's just unevenly paced.", "647" ], [ "It's probably about thirty minutes and three musical numbers until we get to anything zombie related, and though the characters have their charm, they can't really carry the movie on their own. It's worth noting that I watched the extended cut this time, and I wonder if the pacing issue is present in the theatrical cut.\nAll of this said, I can 100% see why it has a cult following. It's the perfect sort of little niche movie (who can't love a movie that guns for a full on Christmas zombie musical?) that will delight those who latch onto it.", "596" ], [ "United Passions\nThe sheer fucking hubris of this movie makes it five stars in my heart.\nThere is something endlessly endearing about watching brainless, and soulless executives try desperately to convince themselves that they're not just parasites in make-work jobs that benefit the world about as much as the use of lead in paint. They're corrupt criminals leeching off a popular sport, and they are well aware of that fact. However, they're still so pathetically preoccupied with what the public thinks of them that they're willing to sink their ill-gotten gains into this incredibly embarrassing and poorly constructed movie.\nI can't even begin to fathom the conception behind this movie. Who is it supposed to inspire? It's literally 100 minutes of charmless suits trying to cover their stinky unwashed asses. According to this very movie, none of these characters even pretend to give a fuck about football.", "952" ], [ "The formation of FIFA has absolutely nothing to do with love for the sport, its players, nor its fans. There is more saccharine <PERSON>-ian whimsy and weepy revelry in these characters finding new ways to profit off the sport, than in the presentation of the sport itself which is relegated to brief scene transitions. I don't even think we see a single player get a speaking line in this fucking movie.\nAlso, the fact that this was released A SINGLE YEAR before a bunch of corruption scandals hit the company (including their president, who is presented as explicitly incorruptible in this movie) is just so perfect. <PERSON>'s kiss.\nIf there's any lesson to be gleaned from United Passions; it's to never believe the hype. Executives are absolute fucking sub-IQ morons that are only in a prosperous position because they have zero scruples and are more than willing to take advantage of the system that has been constructed to benefit them. They could disappear en masse in a <PERSON>-style snap, and the world would function just as, if not more efficiently.", "952" ] ]

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[ [ "Direct answer to the question: yes, there are esoteric and highly impractical PLs based on $\\mu$-recursive functions (think Whitespace), but no practical programming language is based on $\\mu$-recursive functions due to valid reasons.\nGeneral recursive (i.e., $\\mu$-recursive) functions are significantly less expressive than lambda calculi. Thus, they make a poor foundation for programming languages. You are also not correct that the TM is the basis of imperative PLs: in reality, good imperative programming languages are much closer to $\\lambda$-calculus than they are to Turing machines.\nIn terms of computability, $\\mu$-recursive functions, Turing machine, and the untyped $\\lambda$-calculus are all equivalent. However, the untyped LC has good properties that none of the other two have. It is very simple (only 3 syntactic forms and 2 computational rules), is highly compositional, and can express programming constructs relatively easily. Moreover, equipped with a simple type system (e.g., System $F\\omega$ extended with $\\mathsf{fix}$), the $\\lambda$-calculus can be extremely expressive in that it can express many complex programming constructs easily, correctly and compositionally. You can also extend the $\\lambda$-calculus easily to include constructs that are not lambdas. None of the other computational models mentioned above give you those nice properties.\nThe <PERSON> machine is neither compositional nor universal (you need to have a TM for each problem). There are no concepts of \"functions\", \"variables\" or \"composition\". It is also not exactly true that TMs are the basis of imperative PLs - FWIW, imperative PLs are much, much closer to lambda calculi with control operators than to Turing machines. See <PERSON> \"A Correspondence Between ALGOL 60 and Church's Lambda-Notation\" for a detailed explanation. If you have programmed in Brainf**k (which actually implements a rather simple Turing machine), you will know that Turing machines are not a good idea for programming.\n$\\mu$-recursive functions are similar to TMs in this respect.", "904" ], [ "They are compositional, but not nearly as compositional as the LC. You also just can't encode useful programming constructs in $\\mu$-recursive functions. Moreover, the $\\mu$-recursive functions only compute over $\\mathbb{N}$, and to compute over anything else you'd need to encode your data into natural numbers using some sort of <PERSON> numbering, which is painful.\nSo, it is not a coincidence that most programming languages are somehow based off the $\\lambda$-calculus! The $\\lambda$-calculus has good properties: expressiveness, compositionality and extensibility, that other systems lack. However, Turing machines are good for studying computational complexity, and $\\mu$-recursive functions are good for studying the logical notion of computability. They both have outstanding properties that the $\\lambda$-calculus lacks, but in the field of programming $\\lambda$-calculus clearly wins.\nIn fact, there are many, many more Turing complete systems out there, but they lack any outstanding property whatsoever. Conway's Game of Life, LaTeX macros, and even (some claim) DNA are all Turing complete, but no one programs (i.e. do serious programming) with Conway or studies computational complexity using LaTeX macros. They simply lack good properties. Turing complete per se is nearly meaningless when it comes to programming.\nAlso, many non-Turing complete computational systems are very useful when it comes to programming. Regular expressions and yacc are not Turing complete, but they are extremely powerful in solving a certain class of problems. Coq is also not Turing complete, but it is incredibly powerful (it's actually considered much more expressive than its Turing complete cousin, OCaml). When it comes to programming, <PERSON> completeness is not the key, as many (close to) useless systems are uninterestingly Turing complete. You're not going to claim that Brainfk or Whitespace are more powerful programming languages than Coq, are you? An expressive foundation is the key to powerful programming languages, and that's why modern programming languages are almost always based on the $\\lambda$-calculus.", "904" ], [ "The categorization in that list is certainly still current.\nPerhaps one new category has emerged, namely, dependently-typed programming languages. These are essentially automated theorem provers where the primary goal is not proving theorems, but programming. Due to the <PERSON>-Howard correspondence, these two concepts are strongly intertwined. The ultimate goal of such programming languages is to write programs that have much stronger guarantees than regular typed programming languages. People also use these for theorem proving. Some new systems falling into this category include Agda and Epigram. One of the key characteristics of such languages is that they put a lot of effort into making it easier for programmers to define inductive families of datatypes.", "904" ], [ "A simple example is a vector, which depends upon natural numbers (defined inductively).\nRegarding which ones are still very active, I think they all are. Coq, Isabelle, Twelf, and PVS are used a lot in the programming languages community. Maude is used extensively in modelling systems. (Personally, I've used Coq and <PERSON>.)\nI'd never heard of a few of them. In the pdf you link to, there are links to the theorem provers. Some links are current, some are broken. <PERSON> now seems to be some sort of bearded wizard.\nThe theorem provers mentioned in “A Review of Theorem Provers” are:\n* ALF: subsumbed by ALFA, Coq, and Agda.\n* ALFA: seems to no longer unsupported.\n* COQ: actively supported.\n* MetaPRL: seems to be no longer supported.\n* NuPRL: actively supported.\n* HOL: actively supported.\n* PVS: actively supported.\n* Isabelle: actively supported.\n* TWELF: actively supported.\n* ACL2: actively supported.\n* INKA: seems to be no longer supported.\n* GANDALF: seems to be no longer supported.\n* TPS: may still be active, but has only a small following.\n* OTTER: may no longer be supported.\n* SETHEO: replaced by E-SETHEO, which seems to no longer be supported.\n* SPASS: seems to be still active.\n* EQP: seems to be no longer supported.\n* MAUDE: very actively supported.\n* OMEGA: seems to be no longer supported.\n* Mizar: actively supported.\nThere are undoubtedly many new automated theorem provers that have not been mentioned in this list.\nFor completeness, as suggested by <PERSON>, there are site archiving proofs made using various tools. For example:\n* The Archive of Formal Proofs for Isabelle\n* Formalized Mathematics for Mizar\n* The Constructive Coq Repository", "904" ], [ "The word \"combinator\" has some connotations that you don't seem to be intending here and sometimes a stricter definition. Another term for the definition you gave is a closed term. The opposite is an open term. The programming language equivalent of an open term would be an expression referring to a variable that's simply not in scope. Not just not in the current scope, but not in any containing scopes either. Most languages simply don't allow this. We can model let expressions that locally bind a name with lambda abstraction and application. In particular, let x = E in B becomes $(\\lambda x.B)E$. The top-level, or global, scope can then be thought of conceptually as just a short-hand for wrapping your program in a bunch of let expressions. The point being, even global names are bound.", "904" ], [ "The analogy to an open term, in this context, would be a term with one or more completely undefined variables in it.\nNow clearly a closed term is self-contained which is useful. Further, for the purposes of computation, we never need to consider anything other than closed terms (assuming we start with nothing but closed terms). More precisely, for computation we usually care about weak (head) normal form which is the normal form for call-by-value(/name) reduction. An important aspect of these reduction strategies is they never reduce under a lambda. As such, any instance of $\\beta$-reduction using these reduction strategies will only involve closed terms and will only ever produce a closed term assuming the initial term was closed. So, for the purposes of programming and computation closed terms are all that matters. Optimizing compilers, though, manipulate programs and often do perform reduction under a lambda and as such do need to deal with open terms. Proof assistants also need to deal with open terms as they usually need to reduce to normal form to compare lambda terms for equality. (Actually, they can often avoid going all the way to normal form.)\nThe focus on \"combinators\" isn't driven by software engineering concerns. It's simply a fact that for many purposes you only need to consider closed terms. The theory and formal manipulation of open terms is quite a bit hairier than for closed terms, so it is useful to limit to closed terms when possible.", "904" ], [ "You seem to have been confounded by many related and similar but crucially different concepts! Let me attempt to explain them one at a time.\nParametric polymorphism is the ability to write types that quantify universally over type variables using the $\\forall$ quantifier. It is similar to template polymorphism in C++, or generics in Java. For example, the type $\\forall \\alpha . \\alpha \\rightarrow \\alpha$ means \"for each and every type $\\alpha$, given an expression of type $\\alpha$, this function returns an expression of type $\\alpha$. This is (almost) equivalent to writing the Java method signature public <T> T foo(T bar).\nParametric polymorphism is parametric in that for each and every possible type $\\alpha$, the function behaves in the same way. This gives us powerful free theorems about the behavior of a function, e.g., a function with type $\\forall \\alpha . \\alpha \\rightarrow \\alpha$ could only be the identity function, as you were given something of an unknown type, the only thing that you could do with it is to return it unchanged (unless you cheat by non-termination).\nHindley-Milner is a special and restricted form of parametric polymorphism, in that it only allows $\\forall$ to appear at the beginning of a type. That is, you cannot have types like $\\forall \\alpha .", "904" ], [ "(\\forall \\beta . \\beta \\rightarrow \\beta) \\rightarrow \\alpha$. The reason why people love Hindley-Milner is that type reconstruction (or type inference), or reconstructing the type of an expression without type annotations, is always deciable and principal (meaning that the type reconstructed is always the most general type possible).\nThe value restriction is a restriction in programming languges with both Hindley-Milner type systems and mutable storage. With the value restriction, a polymorphic type would only be inferred for a definition if the right-hand side of the definition is a syntactic value. The idea is to prevent problems with mutable store:\nConsider the following ML program:\nlet r = ref []\nr := [3]; r\nlet l = List.map (function true -> 1 | false -> 2) !r\nWithout the value restriction, the type 'a list ref would be inferred for r. However, the second line makes the contents of r have the type int list, nevertheless r still keeps the (incorrectly) polymorphic type 'a list ref and the third line would result in an uncaught type error!\nThe value restriction prohibits definitions whose right-hand side is not a syntactic value from being inferred a polymorphic type. In the program above, r would no longer have a polymorphic type since ref [] is not a syntactic value. The second line will fix the type to r to int list ref, causing the third line to correctly report a type error.\nFor more about value restriction, the first and second part of <PERSON> paper Relaxing the Value Restriction explains it rather concisely. There is also <PERSON> and <PERSON>'s paper A Syntactic Approach to Type Soundness in which the value restriction was first invented.", "318" ], [ "Is effective solvability a coherent and/or useful concept?\nI am aware of <PERSON>'s proof of the undecidability of the halting problem (and I think I understand it). What I'm asking is quite different. I shall define what I mean by \"effectively solvable\":\nA problem $P$ is effectively solvable if there exists an agent $A_P$, such that for any specific instance of $P \\, (P_i)$, $A$ can solve that instance of the problem $(P_i)$ in a finite time.\nImagine $A_P$ as a superintelligence with unbounded (but finite) computational power, and unbounded (but finite) memory. $P$ is effectively solvable if $A_P$ would eventually (in finite time) produce a correct solution for any given instance of $P$.\nIt may be the case that there does not exist any algorithm that \"solves\" a certain class of problems say sigma $$ problems (suppose that sigma problems are a certain kind of mathematical problem). However, this does not mean the problem is not effectively solvable. For any given sigma problem, a sufficiently intelligent agent (or sufficiently competent mathematician) may be able to eventually find its solution(s) (or determine that no such solutions exist) using an (unbounded*) number of mathematical tricks. The mathematical methods applied to sigma problems is limited only by the creativity of the agent concerned. There are essentially an infinite number of strategies, from which a finite subset may be drawn from in sequence (forming an algorithm) to apply to a particular sigma problem.\nEffective solvability (or effective decidability) is different from the traditional notion of decidability in that problem that are effectively solvable do not require a finite number of steps which always guarantee a solution. In fact, for each instance of an effectively solvable problem, a different algorithm may be used. There may be no general algorithm that solves all instances of a problem, but for each instance of the problem, a tailor made algorithm may exist.\nGoing entirely off my intuition here, I think the following is a definition of \"effectively solvable\":\nA problem $P$ is effectively solvable for $A_P$ if $\\not\\exists$ an instance $P_i$ of $P | A_P$ does not solve $P_i$ in finite sequence of steps.\nOR:\nA problem $P$ is effectively solvable if $\\forall$ instances $P_i$ of $P$, $A_P$ can correctly solve $P_i$ in finite time.\nIf there is a tailor made algorithm for every instance $P_i$ of a problem $P$, then a sufficiently intelligent agent can in practice solve every instance of the problem (by searching solution space for said algorithm when confronted with that instance of the problem).", "603" ], [ "Thus even if in theory no general solution to the problem exists, in practice, specific solutions to each $P_i$ always exist (provided the above criteria is satisfied).\nWhile some of such problems may be \"undecidable\", they are in actuality (for all practical purposes) \"effectively solvable\".\nThe set of effectively solvable problems is a superset (and I believe that it is a proper superset) of the set of decidable problems.\nI do not know whether the halting problem is effectively solvable (I'm starting to believe that it's not). That's not my major interest though (I am curious to the answer) What I am truly interested in is effective solvability.\nI am interested in effective solvability, because the range of problems that can be solved by an AI is not (necessarily) the range of problems that can be solved by a Turing machine, but the range of problems that are effectively solvable. I feel that the traditional (<PERSON>) notion of decidability is insufficient when the computer is a sufficiently (pun intended) intelligent agent. Thus when we ask the question:\n\"What problems can a computer solve?\"\nI feel the set of effectively solvable problems and not (necessarily) the set of decidable problems is the answer.\nWhat are some problems that are not effectively solvable by your definition?\nI do not know of any, and I suspected there may be none. To hazard a guess however:\n1. Problems which may involve randomness may not be effectively solvable. In particular if the computer gets the right answer, but doesn't know it got the right answer, then it can never solve that instance of the problem. Such problems are thus not effectively solvable.\nAs a concrete example of such a problem, imagine a machine delta. Delta is non deterministic. Delta (uses its input) to randomly select/construct an arbitrary Turing machine $M$.", "603" ], [ "I am not very sure what you are asking, and I am also not sure that you have the background to understand CompCert. It seems that you are still confused by some basic concepts in Coq.\nI would suggest you start with Software Foundations. Most of your questions would be answered there.\nBut, basically:\n* Definition and Fixpoint are like OCaml's let and let rec, respectively. They are used to define values and functions (and, of course, propositions).\n* Inductive is like type in OCaml, or datatype in SML. They are used to define algebraic data types (or \"inference rules\").\n* Prop is the sort of propositions, so Definition and Inductive that return Props are defining propositions (i.e., \"proof rules\"). The Definition and Inductives are not themselves proofs.\n* <PERSON>, Theorem, Corollary, etc...are used for proofs.\n* Coq is based on the <PERSON>-Howard correspondence: a proof of the proposition $A \\rightarrow B$ is a function that takes something of type $A$ and produces something of type $B$, a proof by induction corresponds to a recursive function, etc.", "904" ], [ "A proof of $A = B$ is obtained by transforming both sides and applying the only constructor of the type $=$, which is Refl of x * x (not Coq syntax, but you should get it). So, all proofs by tactic actually expand into programs!\n* In other words, Coq tactics are just another style of programming. You can use Definition and/or Fixpoint to write proofs, or use Proof to write programs. Of course, you should not do so; but you can.\n* CompCert is indeed proved against a formal specification. Which one? The official C programming language specification! Of course, you can't really prove anything against the text of the specification, so they encoded the specification in Coq using Definitions and Inductives.\nIn Software Foundations, there are examples of verifying a few toy interpreters and some toy programs, as well as more serious examples of verifying algorithms like red-black tree insertions and graph coloring. It does a pretty good job of explaining what and how to prove when you are writing programs in Coq. I would suggest that you start from there.", "904" ], [ "This question is a bit strange. I see it's based on the Wikipedia article, but that article is also a bit strange. I will try to clarify some concepts.\nFirst, we have a language that can be used to make claims whose meaning are formally defined. Such a language may allow us to say, for example, that if $x$ is a Person, then $x$ is a Human, which can be done in first order logic as $\\forall x (\\neg\\mathsf{Person}(x) \\vee\\mathsf{Human}(x))$, in a rule language like Datalog as $\\mathsf{Person}(x) \\rightarrow \\mathsf{Human}(x)$, in description logics as $\\mathsf{Person} \\sqsubseteq \\mathsf{Human}$ and so forth.\nSecond, we have semantics, which formally defines the meaning of claims in the language. One way in which the semantics of a language can be defined is using model theory, which essentially maps terms in the language to sets, elements, and relations between sets; for example, we can map the term $\\mathsf{Person}$ to a (hypothetical) set $P$ and $\\mathsf{Human}$ to a (hypothetical) set $H$, and define the above claims as formally meaning $P \\subseteq H$. This gives rise to the notion of models, where for example, $P := { \\mathrm{Fred}, \\mathrm{Jill} }$ and $H := { \\mathrm{Fred}, \\mathrm{Jill}, \\mathrm{Tom} }$ is a model satisfying a given set of formal claims (since $P \\subseteq H$), while $P := { \\mathrm{Fred}, \\mathrm{Tom} }$ and $H := { \\mathrm{Fred}, \\mathrm{Jill} }$ is not a model (since $P \\not\\subseteq Q$). In turn, models give rise to entailment between sets of formal claims, where for example, given ${ \\mathsf{Person}(\\mathrm{Tom}), \\mathsf{Person} \\sqsubseteq \\mathsf{Human} }$ (in whatever language), we know this entails ${ \\mathsf{Human}(\\mathrm{Tom}) }$ as any model of the former set of claims must be a model of the latter set of claims.\nThird, we have reasoning procedures to decide entailment.", "330" ], [ "One way in which this is done is to use inference rules. For example, we may derive a rule such as $(\\mathsf{C} \\sqsubseteq \\mathsf{D} \\wedge \\mathsf{C}(x)) \\rightarrow \\mathsf{D}(x)$ to support reasoning with respect to the $\\sqsubseteq$ operator in description logics. This rule may be applied for forward-chaining or backward-chaining. But there are many forms of reasoning procedures suitable for different types of languages; for example, for more expressive description logics, (a finite set of Horn) rules is not sufficient to guarantee complete reasoning, and so tableau-based methods are often used. Also one reasoning procedure can be useful for reasoning in different languages, where Datalog, for example, is natively based on rules.\nReturning to the question:\nReasoner is forward chaining inference engine (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Semantic_reasoner) as opposite to Prolog backward chaining SAT solver (for queries).\nA \"reasoner\" can adopt multiple strategies, including, but not limited to, forward-chaining on rules. Engines that apply tableau-based methods, backward chaining, resolution, etc., are also \"reasoners\". (The article you base the question on never claims that reasoners are forward chaining rule engines, but mentions this as one strategy.)\nWhy there is reasoner for description logics and not for other logics?\nThere are reasoners for other logics. For example, Vampire is a reasoner for first-order logic, XSB is a reasoner for Prolog, or just check here for a list of different reasoners for different languages.", "904" ], [ "The $\\mu$-calculus is strictly more expressive than LTL, CTL and CTL*. This is a consequence of a few different results.\nThe first step is to show that the $\\mu$-calculus is as expressive as temporal logics. The main idea for encoding these logics comes from recognizing temporal properties as fixed points. At a very informal level, least fixed points allow you to express properties of a finitary nature and greatest fixed points apply to infinitary properties. For example, eventually $\\varphi$ in LTL defines that there is an instant in the finite future at which $\\varphi$ is true, while always $\\varphi$ states that $\\varphi$ is true at an infinite number of future time-steps. In terms of fixed points the eventually property would be expressed using a least fixed point and the always property using a greatest fixed point. Following such an intuition temporal operators can be encoded as fixed point operators.\nThe next step is to show that the $\\mu$-calculus is more expressive. The main idea is alternation depth. Fixed points alternate if a least fixed point influences the greatest fixed point, and vice-versa. The alternation depth of a $\\mu$-calculus formula counts the number of alternations that occur in it. The operators in CTL can be encoded by $\\mu$-calculus formulae with alternation depth $1$. The operators in CTL* and LTL can be encoded by $\\mu$-calculus formulae with alternation depth at most $2$.", "9" ], [ "However, the alternation hierarchy of the $\\mu$-calculus is strict, which means that increasing alternation depth in a formula allows you to express strictly more properties. This is why people say the $\\mu$-calculus is more expressive than these temporal logics.\nSome references:\n1. The initial arguments that the $\\mu$-calculus subsumes several logics appears in Modalities for Model Checking:Branching Time Logic Strikes Back, <PERSON> and <PERSON>, 1985.\n2. The translation of CTL into the $\\mu$-calculus is straightforward. You can find it in the book on Model Checking by <PERSON>, <PERSON> and <PERSON>. You can also find it in Model Checking and the $mu$-calculus by <PERSON> or in <PERSON> dissertation.\n3. The translation of CTL* into the $\\mu$-calculus is involved. Rather than the original, indirect translation, I suggest the paper of Mads Dam on Translating CTL* into the modal mu-calculus.\n4. There is a simpler translation of LTL into what is called the linear-time $\\mu$-calculus, in which the modalities operate over traces and not states. See Axiomatising Linear Time Mu-calculus by <PERSON>.\n5. The alternation hierarchy is studied in The modal mu-calculus alternation hierarchy is strict by <PERSON> and in A hierarchy theorem for the $\\mu$-calculus by <PERSON>.\nAll this is about expressivity not about utility. In practice, people don't usually specify properties as $\\mu$-calculus expressions because they might find temporal logics easier to work with. The industrial specification languages differ from both temporal logics and the $\\mu$-calculus in their syntax and their expressive power.", "9" ] ]

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[ [ "DIY Miniature Solar System...\nIntroduction: DIY Miniature Solar System...\nToday in this instructables im going to make a miniature solar system using just household and some common craft items..i didn't used any fancy equipment or materials to just keep this project very easy to recreat even by small children...\nFirstly as for a solar system... As you all know that we have different sized planets... Some are really big like jupotar... And some are like very small like venues... And we have the sun.. Which is way larger than any other planet in our solar system in size comparison..... So it's almost impossible to make all the planets in their actual proportion.... With the sun in original proportion.... To solve that problem I have scaled every planet and the sun in manageable and quite OK sizes..... I will leave a chart which I made for this purpose....\nSo without wasting further time... Let's get into the project... 😄😄😄\nStep 1: Things We Gonna Need...\nFor this simple project I made a easy to follow process... And here are the items we are going to need...\n* Modeling clay /epoxy clay\n* Some regular powder\n* Cardboard\n* Acrylic paint\n* Some wooden sticks\n* Superglue\n* Black permanent marker (sharpy)\n* Craft glue\n* Some random stuffs\nAlso there are some items or tools, which are needed for this build but they are optional...\n* Glue gun and hot glue sticks\n* Drill bit (same sized of the wooden stick)\n* Drill machine (battery one is preferred)\n* Paint brush\n* Sculpting tools\n* Randon tools\nStep 2: Mixing Some Epoxy Clay\nFirstly take each amount of both A part and B part and mix until homogeneous...\nI will suggest to mix the clay for atleast 2 minutes...\nRemember one thing... If the clay isn't mixed well... It will cause problem in the hardening process... So make sure that the clay is mixed well.... And if you are using epoxy clay like me.. Then it will start getting warmer and will start to solidify....\nSo be quick...\nStep 3: Forming the Planets\nMake a long piece from that mixed epoxy clay.. And then simply take a part from it...\nStart rolling the clay and form a sphere..... The diameter should be 23 mm (roughly)... If you are using my dimensions..\nThis will be the sun.... At first the sphere will not be perfect...", "733" ], [ "Make a rough shape.. And then shape it later...\nAs like the sun... Now make the other 8 planets (I'm skipping Pluto as it's now a dwarf planet... And it's too tiny to make)\nHere are the diameters for the following planets\nSun - 23 mm\nMercury - 2.5 mm\nVenus - 6 mm\nEarth - 6.5 mm\nMars - 3.5 mm\nJupiter - 14 mm\nSaturn - 11.5 mm\nUranus - 8.5 mm\nNeptune - 8 mm\nStep 4: Let the Planets Set\nNow after forming the planets... Leave them for atleast 2 hours to let them harden..\nI will suggest you to give them a complete 6 hour rest... Depending on your clay type...\nIf you want.. You can occasionally roll them further to make them more round...\nStep 5: Start Preparing the Base\nTake a circle of cardboard with a radius of 7 cm...\nAnd matching cardboard stripes with a width of 3.5 cm\nNow... Using hot glue... Attach the outer ring around the circle... Use a 2nd piece of needed...\nStep 6: Drilling Into the Planets\nTake a drill bit of the same size of the wooden sticks..\nDrill in the spheres...\nDrill only halfway.... Dont drill through the planets....\nI will suggest you to leave Mercury and other small planets....\nAfter drilling take 9 equal sized small wooden sticks (1.5 cm each)\nUsing hot glue... Fix the sticks in the planet...\nAnd for the smaller planets.... Just simply stick the planets in the sticks using superglue\n. Let the glue dry for some time...\nStep 7: Prime the Planets\nAfter the planets are on their respective sticks....\nPrime the planets with white acrylic paint...\nUse 2 coats.... And dry them as well\nStep 8: Finish the Planet Colouring\nNow... It's the fun part...\nDownload some reference images of the solar system and the individual planets...\nTake your time and paint the planets as shown in the pictures.... I'm not perfect... But I tried...\nAlso in this step you have to do 2 more things...\n1. Add a outer ring around the Saturn.... Made with normal paper.. And paint that as well...\n2. Paint the sticks in black...", "636" ], [ "<PERSON> of Black Panther\nIntroduction: <PERSON> of Black Panther\nHello world... It has been a very time year since last year... I am too much busy in my college works and was unable to make projects for many months... And it will be continue for upcoming many months... But.. For this contest I want to share one of my older projects with you all.... It's the *Kimoyo Bracelet* from the Black Panther movie (Marvel)....\nThe Kimoyo Bead Bracelet is the iconic prop from the <PERSON> movie.... And it can be a good item in the collectables... Also a prop for cosplay... I have tried to make the build simpler for everyone.. With almost universal items and tools...\nAlso I have provided my complete video tutorial of this build... From Youtube... (subscribe 😁)...\nSo without further a do... Let's gets started...\nStep 1: Things We Are Going to Need...\nAs I stated earlier... This build don't need any fancy equipments or tools... Just few basic items will be enough.. Also these tools can be altered with something else...\nList of the items..\n* Epoxy clay\n* Silver & black paint\n* Sand paper\n* Protective paint (clear)\n* Rubber band/Elastic\n* Powder\n* Blue Glitter\n* Blue Glass Paint\nList of tools...\n* Sharpy /marker\n* Knife\n* Rotary tool & bits\n* Drill machine & small drill bit\n* Paint brush\n* Some random tools (as needed)\nStep 2: Mixing Some Epoxy Clay\nFirstly take some epoxy clay... And mix the two parts well.... Make sure to not letting any unmixed area..\nThe better the clay is mixed... The better it will be... (use some powder while mixing for easy to handling)\nAfter a thorough mix... Form a thin tube.. Approximately as thick as the beads...\nNow cut small sections from the long strip (weight each one.. For same quantity each time)\nStep 3: Forming the Beads\nRoll the balls in your hand to give a sphere shape... Repeat for every beads... I made 13 beads in total.. And 2 excess off camera....\nKeep rolling the beads untill they starts to hold their shape better.... The more time you give in this step.. Your final project will be that better... Also while doing this step.. You will notice that the clay will starts getting hard after some time...\nMake sure to check every bead... If it's a perfect sphere...\nAfter these...", "348" ], [ "Let the clay set for atleast 12 hours before the next step...\nStep 4: Drilling Holes in the Beads\nNow... Take a drill bit with a diameter of slightly bigger than the rubber band...\nDrill through the beads with 99.99% accuracy 😂... If you have a drill press.. This will be easier...\nStep 5: Making the Designs\nIt's time to clean the holes and cleaning the hole openings...\nI used a diamond burr and a rotary tool for this process.. But you can do this with a larger drill bit held in your hand...\nAfter the beads are clear... Take a marker and draw these patterns on the beads in both side..\nUse reference pictures from Internet... Or as you like...\nStep 6: Making the Special Bead...\nUse a sand paper on a rotary tool... And flatten one side of the special bead... And then use the grinding tools to make the hole in the bead as shown in the pictures... This process may take some time... But.. It's a very important step..\nStep 7: Carving the Designs...\nNow take a pointed burr toll.. And using a rotary tool.. Carefully carve out the designs... Make sure to carve at least 1.5 mm deep cuts..\nUse water while the process... It will save the burr from over heating...\nStep 8: It's Painting Time\nTake some silver paint with some black paint.. Mix that thoroughly... Here the goal is to get a metallic black colour...\nThen simply apply a coat or two on the beads... And let them dry well.. According the curing time...\nStep 9: Add Glitters...\nAs the paint dries... Seal the bottom of the special bead.. With some hot glue or something else...\nNow using some craft glue... Place some blue glitter in the hole...\nAs the glue dries... Use some blue glass paint... And seal the top... Use multiple coats for better look...\nStep 10: Paint the Designs...\nNow.. It's a very interesting step.... Simply take silver and white paint.. Mix together... And apply in the designs...\nMake sure to use a thin brush.. And if excess paint gets on the other areas. Simply wipe them away...\nAfter the paint dries...", "556" ], [ "Backlit World Map From an Old PVC Pipe\nIntroduction: Backlit World Map From an Old PVC Pipe\nToday... I am presenting my one of the most favorite projects... I'm a student of Geography... And I do love the beauty of our very home planet... It's gorgeous Mountains, furious Oceans... The lands... And everything nice on this Earth... From my childhood the map of our world seems much fascinating to me.... Later I studied the process of forming these continents... Their unique features and much more.... So I wanted to have a miniature world map on my wall of room...\nHere in this project.. I just tried that thing in a simple approach... I had a relatively medium size PVC pipe in my stock... And I chose that to use for my project.... The truth is I started this project back in 2020...but couldn't finished due to some reason... I had my continents cut out and primed.. But for an unknown reason.. I left the project in my storage...\nNow back in 2022..I saw a contest going on PVC pipes... So I decided to finish my half done project now.. As soon as my exams were over... I started to collect materials... And started the project again.....\nSo here is my attempt to make a \"Hand made Backlit World Map\" ...\nStep 1: Things We Are Going to Need for This Project\nFor making this project as it is... We are going to need these followings things...\n* A good printed template of the world map(print at least 2 copies.. Otherwise there will be scaling issue later)\n* PVC pipe... Mine was 75mm in diameter... And almost 1.5 mm thick\n* Heat gun/Electric iron\n* Rotary tool.. With cutting disk\n* Clear acrylic sheet(1.5 /2 mm thickness)\n* 320 grit sand paper\n* Coping saw + fine teeth blade\n* Good quality glue\n* Plastic primer\n* Blue metallic paint\n* Paint brush\n* 12 volt Blue led lights\n* Buck convert\n* Electrical soldering iron and flux\n* Flexible wire\n* Enameled copper wire\n* 2 female DC barrel connector...", "74" ], [ "1 male connector\n* 12 volt adapter\n* 3d printer and my provided files\n* Some random tools\nPdf and 3d files 👇\nStep 2: Print the Template.... and Roughly Stick on the PVC Pipe\nSo... It's time to start the project...\nFor the first step... We have to print the world map template and roughly stick that on the PVC pipe.. Wo we can determine the exact position for cutting.. This will ensure the minimal wastage of material..\nAfter marking the spot... Remove the template\nStep 3: Cut Open the PVC Pipe With a Rotary Tool\nNow take a rotary tool with a cutting disk attached... And with the disk... Carefully cut along the line you just made with the template...\nDon't rush in this step... Power tools always need great caution ⚠...\nAfter successfully cutting the pipe.. It's time to use out Heat gun and gently flatten out pipe\nStep 4: Flatten the PVC Pipe\nNow using medium setting of the heat gun... Start heating the pipe... From the opposite side of the cut..\nAs soon as the plastic starts to heat up to a certain temperature the pipe will start to bend..\nUsing something flat.. Gently press on the pipe and try to flatten the pipe in a smooth sheet...\nYou can use whatever available.. Just don't burn yourself...\nIn this step... You can also use a baking street and a electric iron... To further flatten the sheet...\nAfter the sheet is flattened.. Place it under some flat and heavy object to lock it's shape... And let it cool for few hours...\nStep 5: Stick the Templates on the PVC Sheet..\nNow take the template pieces and stick those on the PVC sheet using some craft glue... Do make sure that the paper is adhered well...\nThen let the glue dry completely\nStep 6: Cut All Pieces\nTake a coping saw and a fine teeth blade... I used a fine jewellery saw and blade... And i will recommend that one... If you have a scroll saw.. Then use that instead...\nFirstly take the big sheet and cut it into kore manageable pieces.... Then using the same method.. Carefully cut out the individual pieces as neatly as possible...\nIn this step.. Pls be very much careful...with your saw... One wrong stroke is enough to cut your finger in pieces...\nStep 7: Cutting the Acrylic Back Plate...\nPlace the continents in their corresponding places on the acrylic sheet and make an rough outline of them...\nI used slightly smaller piece for my project because I wanted to use the acrylic sheet just for supporting the pieces and not to cover everything with a back plate...\nThen simply cut the pieces with the saw...\nSand the edges with files and sand papers for more clean look...", "819" ], [ "Easy Infinity Stones Made of Hot Glue\nIntroduction: Easy Infinity Stones Made of Hot Glue\nHello, Marvel fans... As we all know... The \"Infinity Stones\" are again in action after the 8th episode of the 'What If' series..... Ultra vision now posses all the infinity stones... And the multiverse is in great danger... So it's time for us to do something....\nIf you also want to join the intergalactic fight to save the multiverse.... You should also have a set of the Six Infinity Stones....\nI am The creator.... I am your guide through these vast new projects.... Follow me and dare to face the unknown, and ponder the process.... Of making the DIY Infinity Stones....\nStep 1: Things We Gonna Need...\nFor this very easy one-day project... We will need very basic tools and items... Just gather these followings\n* Hot Glue Gun (at least a 60 watt one is recommended)\n* Clear Hot Glue Stick (take at least 7 sticks)\n* White small LEDs... ( SE 186 1)....(you can also use the LEDs with 6 different colors.. If available)\n* Small slide switch /or any small switch\n* 6 piece 3-volt lithium battery (cr2032)\n* Battery holder(if available and if you want to use the stones in long term.. Then it's a must for replacing the batteries)\n* Soldering tools\n* Glass paint\n* Small rocks(I got mine from a local pet fish shop)\n* Heat gun... Or any small flame torch or lighter\n* Some extra tools and items... (whatever available)\nMy build video guide...\nStep 2: Making the First Layer\nTake some masking tape... And stick some on your work surface... It will help you to remove the pieces later easily...\nPour some hot glue on the surface... Let that cure...\nMake a total of 6 of these... With one in big size...\nAdd a second layer on the top and let them cool down also...\nStep 3: Painting the First Layer...\nAfter the pieces are cold... Remove them from the work surface..\nNow take the Glass paint and apply some on the pieces...\nFor the...\n* 'Mind stone' use Yellow paint...\n* 'Reality stone' use Orange paint...\n* 'Space stone' use Blue paint...\n* 'Power stone' use Violet paint...\n* 'Soul stone' use Red paint...\n* 'Time stone' use Green paint...\nIf you see the paint isn't well applied... Use 2 layers...\nStep 4: Attaching LED Light on the Battery\nFirstly bend the positive leg of the led... And soldier the negative end with the negative terminal of the battery...", "231" ], [ "If you are using the battery holder... Then solder with the corresponding metal piece...\nWhatever you do... Make sure to not overheat the battery... Otherwise, the power of the infinity stones will be destroyed 😬)\nStep 5: Adding the Switch...\nSimilarly.. Attach the other end (positive end) with one of the pre-bent legs of the switch with some extra wires...\nAlso if you are using the holder thingy... Then you have to replace the switch in a suitable place...\nThen soldier the other terminal with the positive terminal of the battery...\nAfter the connection is done... Make sure to test everything for any possible loose connection and other faults... And check if the light is turning on properly...\nStep 6: Sealing the Lights\nNow... Take some hot glue... And seal everything as shown in the picture... It's because we don't wanna damage any connections later...\nStep 7: Add Extra Layers of Glue on the Pieces...\nNow... Add some more layers of glue to the 6 pieces... In order to make them thicker.....and it's the preparation for the next step...\nAdd 3 thin layers or 2 thick layers of glue...\nLet those cure... And repeat the process for all the 6 pieces...\nStep 8: Heating the Glue and Placing the Rocks...\nNow.. It's an interesting step...\nHeat the top surface of the piece or stone with the heat gun or flame... Until it gets a soft stage... Don't overheat...\nNow carefully place the small rocks on the top surface with fingers or Tweezers...\nMake sure to add them neatly and don't press too hard...\nLet the piece cool properly... Don't rush... It's an important step...\nStep 9: Remove the Stones...\nWhen the glue is set again... Gently remove the stones... You will get a nice organic look on the pieces... If you aren't satisfied with the result... You may have another go... Stop when you are happy...\nRepeat the process for all the stones...\nStep 10: Attach the Top Piece With the Light Portion...\nNow... Apply some more glue under the pieces...", "259" ], [ "Concrete Calendar With Dedicated Phone Stand\nIntroduction: Concrete Calendar With Dedicated Phone Stand\nToday I'm going to show a simple process of making a Concrete manual calender 🗓 which you can also use as a stand for your beloved smartphone...\nThis project is basically aimed towards easy approach towards making things with common items....\nBasically for this project I designed everything in Fusion 360 for the first time... Yes.. It's my first project with a CAD software and a 3d printer.... (BTW... I have purchased a Ender 3 with the prize money I got from instructables 🤑... And it's my first use of that pronter in any project)....\nBut for the ease of others... I lastly made templates for paper mould.... So... No 3d printing required 😂...\nStep 1: Things We Gonna Need...\nFor this project... We will need only some basic tools...\n* 3d printer + pla filament / a paper printer (laser)\n* Celotape /any kind of plastic tape\n* Concrete (I used normal cement with some white cement)\n* Sanding paper\n* Files\n* Some random stuffs\n* Mountboard / hard cardboard sheets\n* Templates and other files\n* Sticker paper A4\nI'm giving all the 3d files and the paper version files...\n**The final files are now ready ... Go to google drive links\nStep 2: Start Making the Mould\nNow.... As I made 2 version of the templates I have to explain both the process here😬\n* For 3d printed version....\nIf you are using a 3d printer for printing the moulds for the project... Then pls note that the total print time will be well over 30 hours.... I didn't printed the bigger mould because as I wanted to keep this project simple for all my supporters... I planned to use paper templates....\nBut if you want to make printed mould... Then pls do use a good kind of mould release spray or wax.... I'm not an expert of 3d printed moulds... But from my experience... I can say that the process of taking out the casted parts from the mould... Is way harder than it looks...\nIn the files...there will be 1 for the holder...and 1 for the 4 cubes... Print them with your suitable settings....\n* For Paper version...\nIf you are making the mould with my paper method... Then print the 3 pages with a laser printer. And do make sure that the scaling is right... After the print....\nCit all the pieces and stick them on a sheet of cardboard...\nWhen that dries... Cut out them also and apply a whole layer of celotape or any other tape.... I used 2 inch craft tape...\nNow cut the templates according to their proper lines and form the shape... There are some line marks for the valley fold and those mountain folds.... Keep them right...\nAfter that...", "733" ], [ "Complete the mold with joining the pieces with tape... And after completing the mould... Use some silicon and seal the inner joints.... So the water will not leak to the cardboard in a large way...\nStep 3: Mixing the Concrete and Pouring\nFor the base... I used normal cement.. With a little amount of white cement.... I mixed the mixer thoroughly and the carefully poured in the mould....\nI left some extra in the mould for easy of adjustment.....\nFor taking out most of the bubbles... I used my random orbital sander... And with the help of its vibration power.. I easily got removed all the air bubbles from the cement mixture...\nNow for the smaller cubes... I used maximum white cement and some regular cement... And poured the cement in the 3d printed Small moulds.... Make sure to use some kind of mould release or wax... Otherwise................\nOnething I want to say... If you are making or using the paper mold...then make sure to add support materials like ridgit cardboard pieces on over the large flat faces...like I did with the bottom sides...otherwise your mold will also deform like mine...\nStep 4: Let the Cement Cure\nAfter pouring the cement.. In the moulds... It's time to level them and let the cement cure for at least 24 hours... And 48 hours for best results....\nIn the mean while... Make sure the cement is not dry.... Use water to keep the cement wet... Otherwise the curing will not be perfect....\nStep 5: Demolding.. Time\nAfter the cement is cured well... It's time to take the casting out....\nTake your time... Don't rush.... Now if you have used 3d printed enclosure or mould.. I don't know how much time it will take to come out..... But as for my paper mould... It was just a fact of cutting the tapes... And the mould came right off...\nAnd for the cubes...", "254" ], [ "3d Mount Everest Terrain With Recycled Papers\nIntroduction: 3d Mount Everest Terrain With Recycled Papers\nHello everyone.... As I said earlier... I'm a student of Geography... And I'm a great fan of topographical features on the Earth surface... Also I'm a a tech enthusiast... And a nature lover.. So in this project in going to combine my these 3 aspects of life in a project...\nIn this project in going to discuss the process of recycling old papers and turning them into 3d terrains/maps...\nAlso with this method you can make replica of almost any surface on earth or objects... Because I have used 3d printed moulds for making these pieces...\nSo without further a do.. Let's gets started....\nStep 1: Things We Are Going to Need\nFor making this beautiful project... We are going to need these following tools and equipments...\n* A computer (mine is running on pentium 3240G...4gb ddr3 ram)\n* Blender 2.9\n* GIS plug in for blender\n* Fusion 360\n* Cura or pruca slicer\n* 3d printer\n* PLA filaments\n* A small tub\n* Old papers.\n* A mixer/blender\n* Craft glue\n* Clamps\n* Paint\n* Some random tools\nThese are the basic required items to complete this project...\nStep 2: Choosing the Desired Location on Earth\nThis is one of the most important step of this project... Choosing the desired Topographical location for the project... I always wanted to have a miniature Himalaya terrain... So I decided to use Mount Everest as my model...\nYou can use almost any surface on earth for this project... But I will suggest to take something high so that the layers can be prominent...\nI took the mount everest in the center and some other parts of that region for my project...\nStep 3: Adding the GIS Plug in In Blender 2.9\nFor making the 3d model of the mountain use the GIS plug-in for blender 2.9...the process of which is just selecting the desired location on Earth... Then fetching the elevation data from NASA and Google Inventory...\nFor the whole process in depth (I'm not qualified to teach the process)... Pls follow this awesome tutorial of CG Geek on Youtube...\nAfter importing the files and making the 3d model... Reduce the number of nodes count with reduce modifier...\nExport the whole model as an STL file...\nStep 4: Making the 3 Piece Mold in Fusion 360...\nImport the STL file in Fusion 360 and rescale it accordingly your preferred size... After doing so...", "729" ], [ "It's time to make the mold...\nFirstly repair the mesh object (wrap option is better... I did that one)\nConvert the mesh object in to an solid object.. Cut the desired amount of area to be used as the model...\nExtrude the borders using the sketch function...\nMake a base with the features and locking system... Subdivide the 3d model from the base\nMake a body and the pressing tool...\nFor better understanding the process... Use my files as example... Also you can watch *this* video on youtube...\nAfter the mold is ready... Export it as 3MF file and it's ready for slicing...\nStep 5: Slicing the Files in Cura and Exporting Gcode\nImport the 3MF files in Cura or pruca slicer...\nThese are my settings for the parts...\n* 0.28 mm later hight\n* 35% gyroid infill\n* 4 bottom layers and 5 top layers\n* Ironing enabled\n* Wall count - 5\n* Wall optimization - turned on\nExport the Gcode files to a sd card for printing\nStep 6: Preparing the Old Papers\nI was collecting old papers for quite some times... Which includes old used A4 papers,, rough papers etc..\nFor this project. The first thing to done is to carefully remove al the staples(metal) and platic pieces from the pages(if any).... Don't miss any one... Because that will be devastating while making the pulp...\nNow take a small tub with some water (you may use some Luke warm water)... Soak the papers completely in the water and let it soak for at least 2 hours... If you have thick papers... You may increase the soaking time period...\nStep 7: Making Paper Pulp\nFor making the pulp... It's just the process of taking the soaked papers and grinding the to a fine consistency...\nI used the mixer from our kitchen with a a jar which we don't use for cooking...\nPls make sure to ask you mother before doing this... Otherwise... I don't know what Will happen 😂..\nTake small amount of paper at a time... With some water and grind for 30 seconds.... If not done..", "254" ], [ "Easy Avengers Smartphone Stand\nIntroduction: Easy Avengers Smartphone Stand\nHello Instructables..... Today I'm back with a epic project which is not only very easy to make.. But also quite usefull accessories to have.... Any marvel fan will love to make this project for their own collection as well as daily basis usage....\nFull tutorial video on Youtube - Free video\nFor the \"back to basic\" contest I was thinking for something both easy and useful.. A project which anyone can do.... So that's why I created this project fro you all.... I basically made templates which you can just print and can start the project.... The only meterials I used in this project are 'Cardboard' & 'Craft Glue'....\nSo without wasting any more time... Let's start the process... \"DIY makers Assemble\" 😉😉😉...\nStep 1: Things We Gonna Need...\nI wanted to make this project as simple as anyone can do... I choose particular those items which are commonly available in our house...\nMaterials...\n* Cardboard (I used 2.5mm thick cardboard as I have that lying around)\n* Craft glue\n* Scissors ✂\n* Templates Go to google drive links (pls subscribe to my channel 🙂 for support my efforts)\n* Utility knife (with a new blade)\n* Hot Glue gun (optional)\n* Coping saw (optional also)\n* Some A4 sheets for the printing...\n* Colors...\n* Paper clips\n* My video guide-watch on Youtube\nBasically, these are all the items anyone will need for recreating this project... If anyone found difficulties in printing the files... He/she can even copy the design on paper by own hands.... (coz the templates are that much easy to copy)\nAlso if anyone wants to use a thicker cardboard sheet. (whichever you can found is always perfect for this project... Just don't take too thick a sheet...) they can easily alter the templates as their needs... To match the cardboard thickness...\nMy channel link ~ https://bit.ly/31UkH89\nStep 2: Preparing the Templates\nFor making the project...we Firstly need to print the templates... (If anyone get problem with the files.... Pls feel free to contact....). If printing is not possible... Then try to just copy the designs on a blank sheet of paper.... The templates are very easy to copy...\nPrint the templates on A4 white papers....", "733" ], [ "Check if your printer is printing in pepper 100% print ratio...if no then try to scale the print....\nStep 3: Transferring the Templates on Cardboard\nAfter the printing is done... Cut and paste the templates on a big or small pieces of cardboard....\nAs I previously said... Anyone can take any cardboard... But I will suggest a strong one... As that will give the stand more rigidity....\nGlue down the templates on the cardboard and let it dry for sometime....\nStep 4: Cutting the Pieces\nAfter the glue is dried and the templates are fixed on their places... It's time to cut the pieces out of the cardboard sheet....\nI used both my scissors, craft knife & a cheap coping saw.(coping saw is totally optional as the similar result can be easily get by other tools)...\nAs I sticked the templates in a compact order on the cardboard.... I got some trouble in cutting the pieces.... If someone wants.. They can easily spread the templates over a big piece of cardboard.... I just wanted to save a little bit of cardboard and thus I did that compact sticking for utilising the whole cardboard properly.....\nStep 5: Making the Pieces Perfect\nAfter all the pieces are cut off and they are ready for the next step... It's a good time to make the piece more perfect... I will suggest going slow while cutting the piece... As that will save a ton of time later...\nI used some old sandpaper for the rough surfaces... Anyone can do something similar...\nJust make sure that the pieces are as neet and clean as possible...\nStep 6: Making the Base\nAfter the pieces are done and all roughly finalized... It's time to start assembling the pieces...\nFirstly we will start from the base part...\nFor that purpose... We have to stick the large pieces with glue with each other... And have to use some paper clips for attaching the piece until the glue dries... The given photos can be used as a reference...\nStep 7: Making the Holder...\nAs we fixed the base pieces... It's time for gluing the smaller pieces together.. You can start by the holder part...\nStick the 3 small pieces together and clamp them with paper clips.....\nStep 8: Joining the Remaining Pieces\nAfter all the major pieces are joined and the glue dries. Add the 2 support pieces with the base... And keep continuing to glue pieces in their corresponding places...", "733" ], [ "Phoenix Bird Wall Sculpture\nIntroduction: Phoenix Bird Wall Sculpture\nHello everyone.... Today I'm going to make a 3d Phoenix Bird wall sculpture.. Just using some basic items.... As always I have keep this project simple....\nI could have used a 3d printer... But... I think that everyone doesn't have that kind of expensive things... And DIY is basically for everyone....\nSo without further a do... Let's gets started...\nStep 1: Things We Gonna Need...\nFor this project... We will need..\n* Sculpting clay..\n* Sculpting tools\n* Cardboard/ masonite board\n* Coping saw / any cardboard cutting tools\n* Fabric\n* Parchment paper /baking sheet\n* Black fabric colour\n* Golden, silver, red, orange, yellow acrylic paints\n* Brush\n* Sand paper(fine grids)\n* Finishing coat\n* Glue\n* Templates (files are in the next step)\nThe items may be vary depending on your project.... Don't mind to make changes in the process.\nStep 2: Print the Templates and Cut a Cardboard Piece\nFirstly print the given templates on a4 papers....\nTake a thick sheet of cardboard..... I took masonite board..... Mark the back piece design on the cardboard....\nNow start cutting the cardboard....\nI used my coping saw for cleanly cutting the board...... You may use whatever you have...\nAfter the cardboard is cut to final size.... Use a sandpaper and smooth the edges... It will give a clean look...\n**Templates....(Pls print the files on A4 Paper)\nStep 3: Glue the Fabric on the Cardboard\nTake a piece of fabric and mark the base plate on it leaving around 2 cm in every side...\nNow take some craft glue and apply a media layer of glue.... Then place the fabric on top\n.. Using a brush... Smooth out the surface... Whole removing any excess lumps of glue...\nAfter the glue is dried.... Flip the base... And stick the sides in the back side...\nFor this part... Just cut some areas... As shown in the pictures... And then fold and glue them...\nYou may use clips to hold the piece while the glue dries...\nStep 4: Start Sculpting the Model\nNow while the glue is drying... Take the printout.... And take a slightly bigger piece of parchment paper....\nFold the excess paper under the a4 sheet... Thus the parchment paper will not slide around... You can't use any kind of glue or tape... As those will never stick to parchment or baking paper...\nNow here I want to say something.... I used my old trusty clay... M-seal... Which is a repair item... As I'm families with it.... And i don't have any other option.... I could not managed to find any type or good quality air drying clay.. Or baking clay..... I don't know if those are even available in my country.......", "294" ], [ "I had a packer of Mont Marte Clay... Fut it's quality is not upto the mark... It's not even usable....\nWhatever... Take your clay... And start applying and filling the drawings.... The parchment paper is transparent... And it will allow to see the pattern under.....\nI haven't recorded the whole process... I just took some reference photos....\nUse some sculpting tools... Or some random tools as you progress.... As I had a full set of working tools... I have used those....\nStep 5: Make the Body\nFirstly lay down some clay... In the body area.... I mean start from the body... It will be easy....\nSlowly add some pieces... As the tail feathers and other parts...\nStep 6: Add the Flames\nWhen you get satisfied with the phoenix.... Start making the flames... It's also the same process.... Take your time and use your creativity to do the job.... It might not look good at first... But.. Keep faith in yourself.... It will be fine later...\nComplete all the flames.. Including the outer frame.... Just it...\nStep 7: Give a Good Sanding\nAfter the clay is dried and hardened well..... Take a 400 grit sandpaper.. And give a light but good sanding... To remove any odd surface textures....\nYou may use 2 round of sanding.... It's up to you....\nStep 8: Add Some Finer Details...\nNow... After all the sanding has been done.... It's the time to add some finer details... Like eye balls... Or some feather texture.... If you want you can skip this step.... But.. I will really suggest you to do this step....\nIt will make the sculpture more realistic....\nStep 9: Start Colouring\nNow... It's the fun part.... Colour the flames in golden.... You can use some silver if needed....\nFor the phoenix body...", "987" ] ]

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[ [ "Criminal\n<PERSON> is absolutely correct that The Fugitive would be better if the first half of it were <PERSON>, his wife, and a lady cop all being intensely horny for each other in various permutations.\nAfter that, he reluctantly does remake The Fugitive, but you can kind of tell he doesn't much want to. He underplays all that movie's most iconic scenes--or outright skips them--and gives <PERSON>, in the <PERSON> role, basically nothing. He's much more interested in the tortured yearning between policewoman <PERSON> (a character very much not present in the original) and <PERSON> (in the <PERSON> role).", "698" ], [ "The second half's best scene is the only one that's just the two of them, and it's much more in <PERSON>'s preferred lane.\nIt's such a stark contrast to his approach when remaking It Happened One Night, where he treated nearly every beat with reverence. He's not wrong that It Happened One Night is a better movie, but given that, why remake The Fugitive at all? Especially if you're only going to spend about forty minutes of your 2.5 hour movie doing so?\nOther flaws include some disappointingly limp action beats (including the most perfunctory handling imaginable of the big jump off the dam), weak villains, and a pretty dull villain scheme motivating the action.\nBut this is still pretty good, owing to the strength of that (shockingly horny) first hour, that one <PERSON>/<PERSON> scene in the second (which is really the only scene after the interval that much feels like <PERSON> being <PERSON>), some great music from <PERSON>, and a very strong core three performers in <PERSON>, <PERSON>, and <PERSON>. It doesn't quite live up to the promise it seems to have early on, when you think that lovelorn (and ultimately scorned) <PERSON> is playing the <PERSON> role and adding a whole lot of interesting emotional layers and deeply personal stakes to an already proven dramatic dynamic, but alas that's not where it's going. That version of this movie might have been a classic, this one is just pretty fun.", "698" ], [ "The Seven Year Itch\nKind of insufferable at the beginning with the Voice of God narration and <PERSON> unconvincingly uttering his every thought aloud for the audience's (supposed) benefit, and only mildly entertaining thereafter, The Seven Year Itch somehow manages to be passable. <PERSON> hated this film and said that it is meaningless if <PERSON> remains chaste (he doesn't in the play), but it's in fact precisely this fact that redeems the film.", "144" ], [ "Not for any moral reason, of course, but because <PERSON>'s <PERSON> is the most uncharismatic and irritating character imaginable and that, along with the presence of <PERSON>, means that we're looking at a male fantasy bordering on the self-aware.\nThis is a film about the typically masculine idea that one's confidence could make up for countless character flaws and allow you to score even someone as beautiful as <PERSON>—that is, if not for the stifling institute of marriage. It's a fantasy from start to finish, one that achieves self-awareness with \"wouldn't you like to know [who's in my kitchen]? Maybe it's <PERSON>!\" There is no reason for <PERSON> to sleep with <PERSON>, because his goal is merely to prove that he could have, to be assured that he would have made 100% of the shots that he didn't take. If <PERSON> had his way, or if the protagonist had a single redeeming feature, it would blunt the only edge the film has.", "698" ], [ "23 Paces to Baker Street\nThe wife wanted something \"like Remember the Night\" to put on for Christmas night, and I somehow came around to suggesting 23 Paces to Baker Street, pitching it as a serviceably cozy mystery thriller.\nI don't know what I was thinking mentioning a \"bait she switch\" regarding our hero's disability last time, because it's more or less up front about the fact that he's blind from the get-go.\nThis movie really is basically a nothing movie, skating by mostly on its Cinemascope cinematography (this is a solid case for why the format shouldn't be restricted to lush vistas, but works in mundane urban settings too) and well...<PERSON>, who is easy on the eyes and carries most of the talent here.\nIt's kind of hilarious how this mystery carries itself upon such a thin premise. A man suspects two strangers of plotting...something. He's not sure exactly, but it sounds suspicious.", "306" ], [ "And that's all we have to go on for most of the movie. Even when he has his world class butler tailong suspects, neither he nor the audience has any clue as to what exactly is going on, and it isn't until the final twenty minutes or so that any real nefarious plot is uncovered.\nAnd nothing before then is really all that engaging, either! It's the sort of forgettable, disposable picture where all the best parts are half-baked variations of other, much better movies, and that's kind of the appeal here.\nIt ain't anything you haven't seen done better before, but it'll do in a pinch if you want a boilerplate 50s thriller with good looking actors and Cinemascope visuals. When it finished, my wife turned to me and said, \"That was about exactly what I needed tonight\", and I couldn't disagree.", "596" ], [ "Weird: The <PERSON> Story\nWhat gives this a leg up on Walk Hard is that it's not just roasting the biopic genre, but an actual biography. Yet this is burdensome, in a way: the movie is sort of doomed by the inevitability that the funniest thing about it will simply be the fact that it exists. That this is <PERSON> own version of a <PERSON> biopic is, on its face, very funny.", "952" ], [ "The movie itself is almost an afterthought, more amusing than hilarious, but the amusement value is pretty high—especially if you're a comedy nerd who likes playing spot-the-cameo. The other noteworthy business going on here is <PERSON> incredibly legit evocation of <PERSON>. The movie is all silliness but here's <PERSON> playing it like she's in a straight <PERSON> biopic (yet still sensitive to the film's humorous contours). <PERSON> deserves enormous credit as well for running full-speed at this absurd concept.", "585" ], [ "Harikrishnans\nFine in a vacuum, but a marked disappointment given the cast.\nThe main problem is that the central mystery is dishwater dull, with no real emotional stakes, no interesting villains or suspects, and no energy at all.\nFortunately, the movie frequently gets distracted enough to either let <PERSON> & <PERSON> banter, fight, sing, or stumble through Three's Company style shenanigans over <PERSON>, and whenever it's doing any of those things, it's a great time at the movies. Its comic highpoint comes near the middle, where the three of them go on essentially a vacation together, completely ignoring the case for close to an hour of glorious sitcom nonsense; if the whole movie had been like that, it'd be an all-timer.\nBut it isn't. There's about an hour or so of go-nowhere crime bullshit weighing it down. That it more or less succeeds in spite of that is a testament to the power and chemistry of its three leads.", "292" ], [ "Nostalgia\nFor all the poetry and transcendence and desperate sincerity there also is something so sour about this movie. I mean there's a lot of bitterness in <PERSON> in general that the One Perfect Shot crowd doesn't talk about so much (thinking of <PERSON>'s first reaction to seeing <PERSON> in Solaris) but in particular the moment when <PERSON>'s tape player craps out before his, uh, big moment in Rome is almost unbearably cruel.", "698" ], [ "But funny, too! Or the long take of <PERSON> drunkenly rambling to a small Italian child... It feels like the scene in Lenny when <PERSON> is bombing, but this time the room is halfway underwater. Knowing the backstory of this project it almost seems like it should be a self-pitying disaster, but it's all just sadistic enough to follow me around all day like a dark cloud.", "549" ], [ "<PERSON>\nOver the top, campy, silly, kitschy, dated, and cheesy even by the standards of an 80s Bollywood mainstream hit, but possessed of the sort of absolute sincerity and conviction that papers over those sorts of issues, the same sort of winingly guileless commitment to its own reality as, say, Rocky IV or a one of those high-school sports animes where the regional lacrosse game for some reason has life-or-death stakes.\nReally catchy soundtrack, adequate performances, and lots of fun use of color, too.\nMore than any of that, though, the baddies having both <PERSON> and <PERSON> as their heavies also makes this kind of goon!Sholay or henchman!RRR, which I just loved. Would unironically watch a three hour movie starring the two of them as a pair of buddy thugs.\nThanks to <PERSON> for recommending this as my 400th Indian film, it was exactly what I was in the mood for today.", "223" ], [ "The Counselor\nNobody ever really talks about <PERSON> acting in this movie, probably because there isn't much to talk about. Where <PERSON>, <PERSON> and <PERSON> are all at minimum vivid–the beneficiaries of very careful styling and costume design—<PERSON> is vague, blurry, and out of focus even within the pitiless digital clarity of <PERSON> cinematography. He's playing a cipher so empty he doesn't even have a first name, much less the kind of inner life that would make his final recognition of his transgressions—and their tragic, lethal consequences—register on an emotional level.", "295" ], [ "But then for this cold stainless-steel bolito of a movie to work, at least in the way its supporters claim, the Counselor's ultimate despondency has to be more bleakly funny than anything else—the cartel-thriller equivalent of \"fuck around and find out.\" Sadly <PERSON>, for all his talents, is not the guy you go to for a precisely managed satirical tone, which is why, for all the compelling, heartfelt claims that this is some kind of stealth comic masterpiece, it's really only fitfully outrageous and entertaining, and otherwise dully beguiled by its own pretentiousness— the antipode of No Country For Old Men, which is so perfectly controlled it skirts (and of course transcends) monotony en route to feeling actually profound. I'm also not sure <PERSON>'s the guy you go to for world-weary cynicism about the inevitability of the profit motive, as he's such an unrepentant mercenary, and he's no better (or more thoughtful) than his spiritual inheritor <PERSON> when it comes to aestheticizing Mexico as a jaundiced abbatoir or lazily implicating the US of A in cycles of suffering. Throw another one on the pile (literally) the movie snickers, effectively emblematizing its own po-faced, disposable sadism.", "698" ] ]

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[ [ "My cat is rapidly losing weight\nMy 1 year old calico kitty is losing weight, she's my world and I'm really anxious. My family and I are tight on money right now so I have to wait another week until I can get my paycheck to get her to a vet to check her out.\nShe went from 9 pounds to 7.8 over the past 2 months and idk what to do. I work with dogs and other cats so I'm nervous I brought something home.", "176" ], [ "She's picky but I might try to bring home high calorie food but besides that what else can I do in the meantime to keep her from losing more weight? She's now losing 0.1 pounds a day and I'm so nervous she's never been this light before. I've been giving her doxycycline that my mom gave to me since my mom's friend is a vet. She hates it since it tastes gross but it's not helping. What else can I do for her?", "601" ], [ "I think my dog is underweight.\nI have a 7 year old miniature poodle and she currently weighs 11lbs. She is really tall and boney, the vet said she has weirdly long legs and was compared a “baby deer” lol.", "63" ], [ "My attempt at getting her to gain weight don’t seem to be working, I add coconut oil, eggs, white potatoes and chicken (all cooked) to her dry food. Which is Natures recipe dog food and she just doesn’t seem interested even tho she’s really greedy when I come to table food/ human food. So any tips on what to feed or what diet to use?\nI recently had to shave all of her hair due to some matting and noticed how frail she actually looks.", "747" ], [ "Is my cat overweight or just fine?\nI have a handsome black cat named <PERSON> and have been concerned whether or not he been getting too big weight wise or just getting older. He’s currently three years old.", "176" ], [ "I feed him 1/4 cup of food twice a day 10-12 hours in between each meal but its blue buffalo so idk if that comes into play with my concern. Ive recently bought science diet for him but don’t want the money that went into the blue buffalo to go to waste so I’m using it at the moment. I play with him every other day and try to do it more but am busy.", "833" ], [ "My cat is sick\nHey any vet here?? Or any pet parent with a Persian cat with some experience regarding this!\nI have a 15 month old punch face Persian cat. In my home country, we don’t have very experienced vets with good technology. I mean we don’t even have ultrasounds for cats here apparently. So some days she drools and becomes lethargic and won’t eat. And some days she is fine and eats normally.", "961" ], [ "Today she’s been drooling a lot and has refused to eat or drink anything. Hee lab work up showed mildly elevated ALTand AST but they’ve both improved from a few months ago. Idk what to do. I feel helpless and we can’t diagnose her at all. She’s not even sleeping today.", "664" ], [ "Cat has stress diarrhea, but cleaning her up causes her more stress\nHi, I'm not sure what to do - my cat came back from her annual vet yesterday and it was especially stressful for her. I requested a nail trim and they accidentally cut her quick. Then, she pooped in her carrier on the way home and the full thing got stuck in her behind fur and I had to clean her up. Just for context she really hates anyone poking around there and being handled in general.\nThis morning she had diarrhea and I cleaned her up again.", "664" ], [ "I suspect that cleaning her up caused even more stress because she diarrhea again just now.\nI'm not sure what to do. On one hand, I'm nervous that she will have mats which will be very uncomfortable and I'm worried about her getting a UTI from having poop there. On the other hand, I feel that continuing to clean her up will cause more stress and start a vicious cycle. Will call my vet as soon as they open tomorrow but wondering if anyone has advice here as well.", "664" ], [ "Elderly cat with cancer\nMy cat, may have cancer. I blanked a bit at the vet from the horror but it seemed like they were saying stage 5 lymphoma. Both vets we took her to recommend euthanasia. We took her home. She enjoyed snuggles for a bit but now she is hiding and doesn't seem to want to be bothered with us. Should I leave her be? We are trying very hard to let go but I keep thinking what if we do chemo? But she is old and only 7 pounds. She's not eating, only drinking water.", "176" ], [ "Maybe they could stimulate her appetite? But she's also in kidney failure. I do wonder if I should let her have a night of peace and hide as she wishes. I'm torn in the rest. Could I have your thoughts and opinions? My head is racing and I am a mess. I broke down crying at the pet store getting 5 types of wet food for her today. She rejected them all. So outside thoughts would mean a lot.", "664" ], [ "My cat drools a lot\nHey I have a punch faced Persian, she’s around 17 months old. For the past couple of months we’ve noticed that she’s been drooling every 3rd/4th day. Sometimes she won’t drool at all for a week or two but it always comes back.", "664" ], [ "She also sometimes doesn’t eat much (although she’s always been a picky eater). I have a younger cat that’s around 5 months old and she’s sooo playful but the older one doesn’t even play with her. My sister thinks that her breathing rate is always on the faster side too. Any help would be appreciated, I’m desperate to find out what’s wrong with my baby!!! Thank you in advance!!", "664" ], [ "seeking advice for my cat's skin condition\nHi. Do you know any remedies or any ointments that can help with my cat's situation? Ever since they gave her to me, she has had this condition. I don't feed her anything fishy, just cat food and wet food with chicken flavor.", "505" ], [ "At first, a lump formed on the right side of her face near the ear because she frequently scratches her ear. I apologize for asking here, but it's difficult for me to take her to the vet because I'm still a student and don't have enough money for her treatment. Thank you to whoever will answer. I cannot upload any pictures here, but here is the link to my cat's picture: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/15lJ2alqgiUFY5wus7qA-Rw-IAONs6WJJ", "664" ] ]

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[ [ "Society of the Snow\nA couple of days ago I finished reading Man's Search for Meaning and watching now this seems to be serendipitous.\nWhat's the meaning of it all? Not only this extreme experience, but all our little dramas, our intimate struggles. Do they mean something? Are they worth fighting? What for? I think Society of the Snow does not offer a conclusive answer, because that is, by definition, a very personal matter, but it offers clues, and they seem to coincide with <PERSON> work. There seems to be no intrinsic meaning for anything, but, instead, an innate search for meaning in all of us.", "72" ], [ "Things have to mean something and it is our task not to find meaning, but to create it. How? Where to look for? Well, just think who do you love, what do you look forward to, what is that you want to be remembered for. If everything was lost, who, or what would keep you alive? Then, the answer will be close.\nI also want to show my appreciation for <PERSON> little twist in the narrative structure. It was a very surprising and elegant touch.", "427" ], [ "2 or 3 Things I Know About Her\n[...] Maybe an object is what serves as a link between subjects, allowing us to live in society, to be together. But since social relations are always ambiguous, since my thoughts divide as much as unite, and my words unite by what they express and isolate by what they omit, since a wide gulf separates my subjective certainty of myself from the objective truth others have of me, since I constantly end up guilty, even though I feel innocent, since every event changes my daily life, since I always fail to communicate, to understand, to love and be loved, and every failure deepens my solitude, since... Since... since I cannot escape the objectivity crushing me nor the subjectivity expelling me, since I cannot rise to a state of being nor collapse into nothingness... I have to listen, more than ever I have to look around me at the world, my fellow creature, my brother.\nThe world alone. Today, when revolutions are impossible and bloody wars loom, when capitalism is unsure of its rights and the working class is in retreat, when the lightning progress of science makes future centuries hauntingly present, when the future is more present than the present, when distant galaxies are on my doorstep.", "283" ], [ "My fellow creature, my brother.\nWhere do we start? But start what? God created heaven and earth, sure, but that's too easy. We should put it better: Say that the limits of language are the world's limits, that the limits of my language are my world's limits, and that when I speak, I limit the world, I finish it. And one inevitable and mysterious day, death will come and abolish these limits, and there will be no questions nor answers. It will all be a blur. But if by chance things come into focus again, it may only be with the advent of conscience. Everything will follow from there.\nA primeira tentativa de ensaio de Godard e o começo da sua segunda modernidade. Se a linguagem é a casa onde o homem habita, <PERSON> lar.", "660" ], [ "Poor Things\nI read the book this month and it instantly became one of my favourites. It is such an amazing and many faceted piece of literature that it is hard not to see this film now as a slight failure. There is a lack of ambition in how <PERSON> drops the setting, the framing structure and some level of mystery. It feels like the <PERSON> of 10 years ago might have tried and failed, but perhaps the sense of <PERSON> now is not to try at all. He instead hones in on specific elements of the novel, playing them to perfection.", "647" ], [ "It'd just hard for me not to spend a little time imagining what could have been.\nWhat’s left is a masterpiece in its own right. As so much is excised to focus on the mental journey of <PERSON>. The cinematography, costumes, score, production design. All emphasising what it is like to see the world through the eyes of a child, to be free of worldly pressure, but in <PERSON>’s unique case not to be treated as a child or to know the feeling of being under authority. Perhaps it would be better for the world if we were all afforded such a luxury.\n<PERSON> is sensational, but as is the full cast. <PERSON> really just cannot miss an opportunity to do a perfect line delivery.", "529" ], [ "First of all, it doesn't have to be just a merely subset of cultural studies. We can theoretically assume for now that the set theory allows for having a common part.\nThat would mean there are some parts that both have in common but at the same time there are parts that differ from each other or at least are independent. Is that justified? We cannot escape from the cultural aspect when talking about literature. This does not come only to theory but also to other fields - like history e.g. Literature is a product of an entity entangled in their culture. Everything that happens in literature is a given cultural mirror. We cannot create anything in isolation from the world we know and live in. The same goes with some theoretical concepts - especially today when many conceptions mingle with each other and seem to have impact on theoretical contructs (like gender studies e.g.). But at the same time there might be some aspects that do not really bother with cultural studies.\nCan we talk e.g. about semiotics without knowing anything about our culture? Can we talk about semiotics without knowing anything about literature. Nope. Maybe.", "914" ], [ "But this is something really not clear enough. Anyway that understanding would be impoverished. At the same time, literature can exist in its own world and would not be necessarily interested in taking part in any clearly visible social discussion as it is enough for literature to tell a story of one individual being entangled in their inner and outer world.\nSo it also comes down to the inner world placement. This is just a huge field of interconnections as I see it and I think this can be the reason for your confusion.\nI find the part about origins pretty simple. First, people started creating. All the reflections about their works came much later. So at first only literary pieces in isolation were analysed and probably no cultural impact was taken in consideration at that point. But then it started to go deeper and deeper. Basically a view that literature theory is cultural studies is a product of... cultural studies. If we change our point of observation there might be no culture at all but the very piece of literature only. Our cultural conscioussness today however tells us that might not always be the thing.\nNot sure if that helps you anyhow :)", "914" ], [ "<PERSON>\nSay what you like but to me it felt like it had a clear beginning, middle and end. It’s hard to watch a film that really doesn’t feel like it has “a point”. Yet when you press play it kinda just makes sense. Not always, but this one did to me at least.", "577" ], [ "I’ve been reading Transcendental Style in Film by <PERSON>. And I just had to see some of this stuff myself. It does make me rethink what cinema and art gives to me personally. Hmm. I have this strange feeling this film might just linger in my mind very peacefully, quite special isn’t it?", "823" ], [ "Dog Day Afternoon\nThank God I did not know anything about this movie because the experience I just had was transcendent.\nThe opening was so funny I was asking myself if this had been a comedy all along, until I realized that the absurdism was just a reality of the overall situation. It’s funny, yes, but it’s also tense and thrilling and tragic all over, to the point where I sobbed my eyes out during that one phone call towards the end.\nWhat a heartbreaking little moment that oddly encapsulates the personal cost of queerness, the lengths to which society can push you by means of rejection.", "471" ], [ "When a society doesn’t afford you dignity, you are forced to demand it.\nAlso, the actual bank robber <PERSON> is playing was as hot, if not hotter, than <PERSON> himself. No wonder the tellers were like “whatever you say, handsome”. Like, same.", "86" ], [ "Poor Things\nPromethean ideas of the cost of scientific ambition have obviously been crowding my brain as of late, so the <PERSON> parallels were immediately exciting. This cautionary tale about the dangers of scientific curiosity would be delivered through a female Creature who, for once, is no one’s bride. Just, perhaps, someone’s daughter, but even that isn’t as clearly cut.\n<PERSON> was labeled a modern <PERSON> because he chose to challenge, by way of scientific ambition, the mandated divine order, just like the titan did when he stole fire from the gods to give it to man. Here, he even goes as far as to have others, including his Creature, affectionally call him “God”, making the matter even more obvious. How, I immediately asked myself, as if all that video essay research made it into an obvious <PERSON>’s gun, is this particular modern <PERSON> going to be punished for his crime of sacrilegious curiosity?\nWhat a pleasure to discover, along with <PERSON> herself, that curiosity, specifically hers, is not to be punished but celebrated. That there is actually as much philosophical and scientific value in the slow but unstoppable uptake of childlike wonder as there is in the more mature ways of exploring existence. That the world as seen by new eyes is terrifying, but also shockingly straightforward.", "660" ], [ "If x, then y. Repeat.\nNeither God created <PERSON>, they merely gave her a body and a brain to work with. Everything going forward was all her doing. To discover oneself is to create oneself.\nAnd as <PERSON> discovered the adult world by touching everything and putting it in her mouth, creating her own world in the process, I thought back to the other reason <PERSON> stole fire from the gods. He wanted to help mankind. Empathy got him punished for eternity. May that not be the case of <PERSON>.", "660" ], [ "Groundhog Day\nHowever \"simple\" this concept may be it does interest me quite a lot, but it is not because of this film that it interests me. You know the editing is bad sometimes, or maybe it's the shots that are bad that make the editing bad, or is it the oh so simple story that makes the shots bad that then make the editing bad.\nWell at the end of the day I'm still a human being, so when I see other humans laugh, it gives me somewhat joy. I also wanted to mention and maybe ask: Is it me or does it look like <PERSON> has eye make-up in some shots?", "475" ] ]

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[ [ "MicroFluidic Pumping System\nIntroduction: MicroFluidic Pumping System\nThe Challenge\nInvestigating biological processes often requires model systems that mimic naturally occurring physiological environments. Many animal models and cell lines have served as gold standard tools for biomedical researchers to investigate biological functions in laboratories. Yet, many vital bio-activities such as hormones production rely on fluid dynamics to propagate signalling molecules at the right place and time throughout the body. In investigating such long-range communication mechanisms, a need exist to precisely mimic and control physiological fluid environments in laboratory settings. As a result, many commercial pumping systems are now available:\n* Programmable syringe pump system *\n* Peristaltic Pumping system *\n* Pressure controller system **\nYet, commercial solutions come highly expensive and are difficult to customize based on application requirements. As a result, various low-cost open source solutions have recently emerged in the literature:\n* Open-source syringe pump system **\n* Pressure controller *\n* Piezoelectric pumping system *\nAlthough being low cost and easily customizable, open-source solutions lack an intuitive user interface allowing to easily adjust pumping parameters without modifying the underlying source code of the system.\nProject Objectives / Scope\nThe present project aims to improve the design of the PiFlow system by designing a graphical user interface to be displayed on an LCD touch screen display to adjust flow rate parameters easily. Specifically, the interface will allow the user to select between three different modes. The static flow mode will allow setting a constant flow rate (uL/Min) to be executed for a pre-defined flow time (Sec).", "171" ], [ "The dynamic flow mode will allow the user to select a range of flow rate values where the system will linearly adjust the pumping rate (uL/Min) following a pre-defined sweep rate (uL/Min) adjustable through the interface. Lastly, for applications requiring higher complexity, a custom mode will allow the upload of a CSV file containing a list of flow rate parameters to be executed by the system. The underlying code of the interface will be made available for modification and improvement on the Github Project Page. Overall, the interface serves as a first design iteration utilizable in various microfluidic open source systems.\nSupplies\nMechanical Components\n* 3D Printing Filament - PLA Plastic\n* 3D Printer - Creality Ender 3\n* Clear Plastic Glue\nElectronic Components\n* 1x Raspberry Pi 3 Model B\n* 2x High Pump Driver (Best for high flow rate application - Select the driver according to required flow rate)\n* 2x Low Pump Driver (Best for low flow rate application - Select the driver according to required flow rate)\n* 2x 0.1 uF Decoupling Capacitor\n* 2x TMU Switch IC\n* 2x Molex Connector\n* Raspberry Pi Pin Connectors\n* 1x 7'' LCD Screen\n* 1x HDMI 90' Adapter\n* 1x HDMI Extender Capble\nFluidic Components\n* Tygon tubing 1.3 mm inner diameter\n* 2x Piezoelectric Pump\n* Luer Tubing Adapter\nSoftware & Manufacturing House\n* Autodesk Eagle\n* JLC PCB\n* Fusion 360\n* The Eric Python IDE\n* QT Designer\nStep 1: Mechanical Design\nProcedures\n* Fusion 360 was utilized to design the components. The STL files provided below can be downloaded and uploaded directly into a 3D printer. Alternatively, the Fusion 360 Model can be downloaded from the Autodesk Gallery.\n* The printing parameters selected according to standard recommendations for PLA material:\nBed Temperature --> 70C\nNozzle Temperature --> 220C\nFlow Rate --> 90%\n* Each component was assembled using Clear Plastic Glue which was found to be durable. Alternatively, the design can be modified to allow assembly with screws.\n* Holes were drilled according to the Luer Tubing Adapter dimensions. Clear plastic glue was used to mount the adapters.\n* The inner diameters of the bottle holders can be adjusted according to the size of the solution vessels utilized.\nStep 2: Electronic Circuit\nElectronic Components\n* 1x Raspberry Pi 3 Model B\n* 2x High Pump Driver (Best for high flow rate application - Select the driver according to required flow rate)\n* 2x Low Pump Driver (Best for low flow rate application - Select the driver according to required flow rate)\n* 2x Piezoelectric Pump\n* 2x 0.1 uF Decoupling Capacitor\n* 2x TMU Switch IC\n* 2x Molex Connector\n* Raspberry Pi Pin Connectors\n* 1x 7'' LCD Screen\n* 1x HDMI 90' Adapter\n* 1x HDMI Extender Cable\nDesign Software & Manufacturing House\n* Autodesk Eagle\n* JLC PCB\n* Fusion 360\nProcedures\n* Upload each component into Eagle software.", "737" ], [ "Low-Cost Rheometer\nIntroduction: Low-Cost Rheometer\nThe purpose of this instructable is to create a low cost rheometer to experimentally find the viscosity of a fluid. This project was created by a team of Brown University undergrad and graduate students in the class Vibration of Mechanical Systems.\nA rheometer is a lab device used to measure the viscosity of fluids (how thick or sticky a fluid is -- think water vs. honey).", "707" ], [ "There are certain rheometers that can measure the viscosity of fluids by measuring the response of a vibrating system submerged in a fluid. In this low-cost rheometer project, we created a vibrating system from a sphere and spring attached to a speaker to measure the response at different frequencies. From this response curve, you can find the viscosity of the fluid.\nSupplies\nMaterials Needed:\nHousing Assembly:\n* Particle Board (11’’ W x 9’’ H) (here) $1.19\n* 12 x 8-32 x 3/4'' Hex head screws (here) $9.24 tot\n* 12 x 8-32 Hex nut (here) $8.39\n* 4 x 6-32 x ½’’ Hex head screw (here) $9.95\n* 4 x 6-32 Hex nut (here) $5.12\n* 9/64'' Allen Key (here) $5.37\nElectronics:\n* 12V Power Supply (here) $6.99\n* Amplifier (here) $10.99\n* Aux Cable (here) $7.54\n* Jumper Wire (see below)\n* Alligator Clips (here) $5.19\n* Speaker (here) $4.25\n* Screw Driver (here) $5.99\nSpring & Sphere Set Up:\n+ 3D printer resin (variable)\n+ 2 x accelerometers (we used these) $29.90\n+ 10 x female-male rainbow cables (here) $4.67\n+ 12 x male-male rainbow cables (here) $3.95\n+ Arduino Uno (here) $23.00\n+ USB 2.0 Cable Type A to B (here) $3.95\n+ Bread board (here) $2.55\n+ Compression Springs (we used these) ??\n+ 2 x Custom Connectors (3D printed)\n+ 2 x ⅜’’-16 Hex nuts (here) $1.18\n+ 4 x 8-32 Set Screws (here) $6.32\n* 4 x ¼’’-20 Hex nut (Aluminum) (here) $0.64\n* 2 x ¼’’-20’’ Threaded Rod (Aluminum) (here) $11.40\n* 7/64'' Allen Key\n* 5/64'' Allen Key\n* 4 x 5x2mm 3/16’’x1/8’’ Screws (here) $8.69\nOther\n* Plastic Cup (here) $6.99\n* Liquid to test viscosity (we tested karo syrup, vegetable glycerine, Hershey’s chocolate syrup)\nTOTAL COST: $183.45*\n*does not include 3D printer resin or liquid\nTools\n* Laser Cutter\n* 3D printer\nSoftware Needed\n* MATLAB\n* Arduino\nFiles and Code:\n* Adobe Illustrator file for the housing assembly (Rheometer_Housing.ai)\n* Speaker Controller GUI (ENGN1735_2735_Vibrations_Lab_GUI_v2.mlapp)\n* Arduino Rheometer File (rheometer_project.ino)\n* Sphere mesh files (cor_0.9cmbody.stl and cor_1.5cmbody.stl)\n* Custom Connector ASCII geometry file (Connector_File.step)\n* MATLAB Code 1 (ff_two_signal.m)\n* MATLAB Code 2 (accelprocessor_foruser.m)\n* MATLAB Code 3 (rheometer_foruser.m)\nStep 1: Part 1: Set Up\nHow to setup the experimental platform.\nStep 2: ​3D Print and Laser Cut All Parts (custom Connectors, Spheres, and Housing)\nStep 3: Connect the Electronics As Shown Below\nImportant to note: Do not plug the power supply into the outlet until all steps in this section are completed! ALWAYS UNPLUG THE POWER SUPPLY WHEN MAKING ANY CHANGES.\nTo start, make sure the amplifier is placed with the knob facing away.", "611" ], [ "Blue Light DNA Transilluminator\nIntroduction: Blue Light DNA Transilluminator\nGel electrophoresis arises as an efficient method for comparing various macromolecules such as DNA and RNA based on their size and charge properties. The molecules under analysis are pipetted within a gel made of agarose. The gel is then placed between two electrodes having opposite charges and submerged within an electrolyte buffer solution. An electric field is consequently created once voltage is applied to the electrodes. As a result, the negatively charged molecules gravitate towards the positively charged anode by the action of the electric field. The difference in size becomes apparent as smaller molecules will travel through the gel matrix faster than larger molecules. Further details about the protocols can be found elsewhere. ***\nOnce the action of the electric field has separated the molecules, a DNA transilluminator is used to observe the location of each molecule within the gel matrix. In detail, the addition of a staining dye within the gel allows the molecules to be fluorescently excited by light having wavelengths within the UV or blue region of the electromagnetic spectrum. Various staining dyes exist with different excitable wavelengths *. A transilluminator is therefore critical for reaching meaningful conclusions from the gel-electrophoresis procedure. However, as demonstrated below, such devices tend to be highly expensive.\nCommercially available transilluminators:\n* Thermofisher Scientific --> Price: 2200$\n* VWR International --> Price: 742$\n* Analytik Jena --> Price: 2337$\nStudents or small laboratories with limited financial support for scientific investigations are often forced to search for alternative methods for analyzing their gels. The present project demonstrates the design and assembly of a DNA transilluminator system using easily accessible components at a respectable cost. The project can be tackled by young students aiming at gaining practical skills in building laboratory equipment or experienced scientists searching for a rapid and cost-efficient method for analyzing gels.", "388" ], [ "The complexity of the project is kept at a minimum. Further modifications can be undertaken to improve the performance of the device. No professional experience in electronics design or software programming is needed.\nThe project is divided as follow:\n1. Gathering the necessary components.\n2. Designing and 3D printing the required plastic parts.\n3. Assembling the mechanical components.\n4. Assembling the electronics components as well as programming the microcontroller.\n5. Testing the device and proposing potential improvement.\nStep 1: Supplies\n* Source of illumination (Blue light 465 - 465 nm) --> LED strip\n* 3D Printing Filaments --> PLA Black + PLA Transparent\n* Cover Hinges --> Mini Cover Hinges\n* Orange UV Shield --> Orange UV Cover Shield\n* Microcontroller --> Arduino Nano\n* Electronic Switch --> Toggle Light Switch\n* Mirror Reflecting Material --> Metalic Mirror Sheet\n* Plastic Glue --> Krazy Glue\n* Electronics Wires --> Jumper Wires\n* PCB Board --> PCB\n* DC Power Jack --> Power Adapter\nStep 2: Design & 3D Printing\nThe design procedures have been seperated into three sections:\n- Cover (Screen_Perimeters.stl + cover.stl)\n- LED Box (Illuminator_Box.stl + Transparent_Glass.stl)\n- Electronic Box (Electronics_Box.stl + Box_Cover.stl)\nThe design of each component was created within Fusion 360 and can be downloaded below:\nFusion 360 Model\nAdditionally, the STL files required to proceed with 3D printing each component are provided below.\nStep 3: Mechanical Assembly\n1) Cover Assembly\n1.1 --> A small amount of Krazy Glue is deposited onto the black perimeter surface (Labelled as #1).\n1.2 --> The orange UV shield (Labelled as #2) is gently deposited onto the black perimeter component having a small amount of glue onto the surface. Wait 5 minutes before proceeding to the next step for the glue to solidify.\n1.3 --> Apply a small amount of Krazy Glue onto the interior perimeter of the black upper cover (Labelled as #3). Gently align the upper cover onto the orange UV shield. Wait 5 minutes for the glue to fully solidify.\n1.4 --> Briefly measure two equally distanced positions on the exterior of the LED box for gluing two cover hinges. The measurement is only for aesthetic purposes and does not necessarily affect the performance of the unit. Next, apply a small amount of Krazy Glue onto the two selected areas and gently depose one side of the door hinge. Be careful not to apply any glue onto the rotating area. Wait 5 minutes for the glue to be fully solidified.\n2) LED Box Assembly\nTo maximize the reflection of light from the LED towards the UV orange shield, a total of 5 mirror metallic pieces are cut and glued at the bottom of the LED box.", "635" ], [ "A DIY Rescue Robot With Arduino, 3D Printed, and Lego-compatible Parts\nIntroduction: A DIY Rescue Robot With Arduino, 3D Printed, and Lego-compatible Parts\nIntroduction\nRescue robots are designed to assist humans in search and rescue operations. They usually assist rescue crews in tasks such as searching, 2D/ 3D mapping of the search area, removing rubbles and object manipulations, delivering supplies, and or evacuating casualties from disastrous sites. For instance, rescue robots were used in the Fukushima nuclear disaster in 2016. As rescue robots work in disastrous sites, they should be able to move on rough trains. Therefore, their locomotion mechanism should enable them to go over the steps and inclined terrains. They are usually equipped with tracked locomotion mechanisms, as it provides high traction for the rescue robots to move on uneven surfaces. They should also be equipped with a robotic manipulator to enable object grasping and manipulation.\nStep 1: Rescue Robot’s Track and Gripper Mechanisms\nRescue robots that are controlled by an operator from a safe distance are called teleoperated robots. In this case, the operator sends command signals to the robot through a communication channel.", "949" ], [ "The robot follows the commands to safely move toward the target locations and, for example, to manipulate objects or to displace rubbles.\nIf the size of the rescue robot is small, it can be deployed in confined and tiny places where larger rescue robots cannot operate.\nStep 2: General View of Operator Console and Handheld Rescue Robot\nIn practice, they’re sent out to find victims or shut off the gas valves in collapsed buildings, or disastrous sites. Hence, they are all equipped with grippers as their primary tool to utilize in the field. The operator’s proficiency in controlling the robot from a distance, agility, and durability of the locomotion mechanism, dexterity of the robotic manipulator or gripper, and the capacity of the communication channel are the main issues affecting the whole rescue operation.\nStep 3: Electrical Assembly\nIn this tutorial, we will show you how to make a teleoperated rescue robot out of Lego Technic pieces, Arduino boards, off-the-shelf DC and servo motors, NRF communication modules, and joystick module. The current project uses an Arduino Uno and Nano boards as the main controller of the robot and the operator console, respectively.\nThe body structure of the robot is made of Lego Technic pieces. Arduino boards and DC and servo motors are then connected to Lego pieces using custom-designed 3D printed parts. The servo motor is in charge of opening and closing the gripper, and DC gear-motors are used to provide the main movements of the robot.\nThe operator console has a joystick for controlling the robot’s main movements and two pushbuttons for the opening and closing of the gripper. The command signals are transmitted to the robot using the NRF module. The instructions are given in a way that you can easily make one at home.", "832" ], [ "Measuring the Boiling Point of Liquefied Gases Using Arduino and PhyPhox\nIntroduction: Measuring the Boiling Point of Liquefied Gases Using Arduino and PhyPhox\nA substance that is in a liquid state is constantly evaporating or passing into the gaseous state (depending on the intermolecular forces and temperature). The pressure exerted by the gaseous molecules produced in this process is known as vapor pressure.\nThe vapor pressure depends on the temperature in such a way that at higher temperature higher vapor pressure. The temperature at which the vapour pressure equals atmospheric pressure is known as the boiling point.\nIn the case of liquefied gases contained in pressure vessels, such as gases used to clean dust, liquefied petroleum gas (LPG) or refrigerant gases, the pressure at which they are kept in the vessel allows a fraction of the gas to be in a liquid state.\nIf this liquid is removed from the vessel and subjected to atmospheric pressure it will begin to evaporate so it will take energy from the surrounding environment lowering the temperature around it. Under these conditions the vapour pressure of the liquid equals the atmospheric pressure and the liquid therefore reaches its boiling point.\nThe aim of this Instructable is to measure that boiling point, which as these are liquefied gases will normally be below 0°C, using an Arduino microprocessor and a waterproof DS18B20 temperature sensor capable of measuring temperatures up to -55°C.\nThe data will be transmitted via Bluetooth to a cell phone provided with the PhyPhox app that will not only allow us to graph and analyze the data but also have access to the sensors of the cell phone, in this case the barometric pressure meter, which will allow us to program the app to correct the boiling point value measured to its standard value referring to atmospheric pressure at sea level or 1 atmosphere.\nThe measured boiling point, in conjunction with other physical tests, e.g.", "152" ], [ "sound speed, can be used for preliminary identification of gaseous substances.\nSupplies\n* Cell Phone (Android or iOS) with barometric pressure sensor (see examples in PhyPhox Sensor DataBase).\n* PhyPhox app (Google Play or AppStore).\n* 1 40 ml Plastic dropper pump (Good Cook brand).\n* 1 Plastic container.\n* 1 Waterproof DS18B20 temperature sensor.\n* 2 Breadbord mini modular.\n* 1 Arduino Nano V3.0 CH340 with mini usb cable.\n* 1 Bluetooth Low Energy BLE CC2541 Bluetooth 4.0 UART.\n* 1 1k ohm resistance.\n* 1 2k ohm resistance.\n* 1 4,7k ohm resistance.\n* Male/Male jumpers wire.\n* Male/Female jumpers wire.\n* 1 Portable battery charger (6000 mAh 3.7V, Out 5V, Output Max. 2.4A).\n* Cutter knife.\n* Silicone glue.\n* Plastic fasteners.\nStep 1: Measuring Probe\nThe measuring probe is basically a conical vessel that is inserted at its narrow end by the DS18B20 temperature sensor leaving enough volume of the cone to completely cover the sensor approximately 5 cm above the end of this one.\nAs a conical container, a plastic dropper pump (40 ml) was used that was cut into two parts, being the narrowest conical end to which the temperature sensor were adjusted and the wider conical end, next to the pump, used as a base.\nThe assembly fits a plastic container that serves as a support and box to hold the Arduino circuit.\nThe following is the procedure for constructing the measuring probe (see images):\nNote: Before mounting the DS18B20 temperature sensor perform the calibration indicated in Step 2.\n* Cut the plastic dropper pump to the height of the 15 ml mark (Caution: cutting hazard).\n* Insert the DS18B20 temperature sensor into the narrowest conical end so that the entire metal body is inside the cone. If necessary increase the diameter of the dropper tip to adjust the sensor.\n* Fix the sensor using silicone rubber or some other low temperature resistant glue. Let dry.\n* Drill a hole in the wider conical base with a diameter that allows the DS18B20 temperature sensor cable to be inserted.\n* Insert into the wide conical base invertedly the conical piece with the sensor inserted passing the cable through the hole previously drilled.\n* Drill a hole in the lid of the plastic container that will serve as a container of the Arduino circuit of such a diameter as to allow the dropper to be inserted by its wider base.\n* Attach the rubber pump to the base of the dropper, under the lid of the plastic container, so that it is fixed to it.", "152" ], [ "Solid State Optical Sump Pump Controller\nIntroduction: Solid State Optical Sump Pump Controller\nRecently I found out my dad had an inconvenient situation with the sump pump in his basement. The sump pump sits at the bottom of a four foot deep well and is activated by a small float that moves up and down. The float is connected to a mechanical switch on the pump housing.\nDuring the wet season, the pump turns on and off about once a minute and the switch contact lasts only about a year before succumbing to mechanical failure. When it does, my dad has to undo the outlet hose, hoist the pump out of the well and replace it with a spare pump he keeps around for the task. Then, he replaces the switch contactor on the broken pump so he can have it ready for next year. This costs about $40 a year, not to mention the labor involved in swapping out the pumps and replacing the contactor each time.\nTo solve the problem, I set out to design a solid state optical sump pump controller that has no moving parts to wear down. My idea was to bypass the mechanical float on the pump itself and to instead make a new float that would mount to the side of the well. This would consist of a plastic bottle and a dowel rod. The dowel rod would move up and down and trigger two optical sensors mounted on the side of the well. I would then build a circuit to turn the pump on and off using a solid state relay.", "742" ], [ "Because this would be contactless and have no electromechanical parts, it would never fail due to wear.\nSupplies\nFloat Assembly:\n* One plastic bottle\n* One dowel rod\nOptical Float Level Sensor:\n* Two Photointerrupters\n* Hookup wire\nOption 1: TTL Based Control Logic:\n* Two 2.2kΩ resistors\n* One 100Ω resistor\n* One 7400 quad-NAND gate integrated circuit\n* One 180Ω resistor (optional)\n* One indicator LED (optional)\n* One protoboard PCB\nOption 2: Arduino Based Control Logic\n* One 100Ω resistor\n* One Arduino Uno (an ATTiny based board could work as well)\nPower Supply:\n* One 5V USB charger\n* One USB cable\nPump Relay Assembly:\n* One solid state relay\n* One AC plug\n* One AC outlet\nStep 1: Making the Optical Water Level Sensor\nThe water level sensor consists of a shaft with a central hole slightly larger than the dowel rod. When mounted to the side of the well using the attachment bracket, it allows the float and dowel rod to slide freely up and down along with the water level in the well.\nAt two points along this shaft are positioned photointerrupters. These devices consist of a infrared light source and a light detector. When the dowel rod slides into the groove in the photointerrupter, it interrupts the light beam, turning off the current through the light detector. The photointerrupter sit well above the water level and are not intended to get wet.\nI chose to make the water level sensor shaft out of 3D printed segments so that I could easily adjust the length by adding segments as needed. Each segment has a central cutout for inserting a photointerrupter, but only two of the segments will have one.\nI also made a bracket for attaching the sensor to the side of the well.\nAutodesk Fusion 360 Design\nStep 2: Wiring and Operation of the Water Level Sensor\nAlong the sensor bar, there will be photointerrupters that will be blocked by the dowel rod when the water reaches the low and high point. One side of each photointerrupter contains an LED light source. Both of these will be wired from 5V, in series with a current limiting resistor (shown in the schematic), down through a common ground.\nThe side of the photointerrupter with a dot contains a light sensitive transistor. The signal lines go to the leads nearest the dot, while the opposite leads are wired to a common ground.\nThe control logic will pull the two signal lines up to 5V while the phototransistor is in shadow, but if light falls on the transistor, it will conduct and bring the signal line to 0V; therefore, when the dowel rod is present, the signal line will read 5V, while when it is absent, it will read 0V.\nI used an ITR9608-F photointerrupter because it has a 5mm gap, which is just wide enough to let my dowel rod through.\nStep 3: Making a Float With an Adjustable Rod\nFor the float, I used a small plastic bottle and the dowel rod. I wanted the length of the rod to be adjustable, so I drilled a hole on the bottle cap to allow me to insert the rod partially into the bottle.", "267" ], [ "Planting4U - Automated Irrigation System With a Website Interface\nIntroduction: Planting4U - Automated Irrigation System With a Website Interface\nHave you ever been on holiday and worried about your plants at home? Yes, me neither! However, the people that consider themselves green-fingered or plant-loving might have just stumbled upon a system that finally allows them to enjoy their holiday and forget about their oxygen-producing friends at home.\nThe Planting4U irrigation system is a newly developed platform that controls the watering procedure while providing essential information to the user via its own website. This allows for complete control and overview from anywhere in the world. This product is easily expandable and can be further developed to suit all your needs.\nThe following instructable will show you all the steps and methods required for reproducing the automated irrigation system. This DIY project can also be used as a guideline if you feel adventurous and want to create your own smart irrigation system using different components and/or supplies.\nThe CAD designs and software components for the irrigation system are all available in the following GITHUB repository: https://github.com/Patrick2428/P4U\nSupplies\nRaspberry Pi Zero - https://www.kiwi-electronics.nl/raspberry-pi-zero-...\n2 Channel Relay Module - https://www.reichelt.nl/nl/en/developer-boards-rel...\nRPI Analog to Digital Converter - https://www.reichelt.nl/nl/en/raspberry-pi-analog-...\nMoisture Sensor - https://www.reichelt.nl/nl/en/arduino-moisture-sen...\nTemperature and Humidity Sensor - https://www.reichelt.nl/nl/nl/ontwikkelaarsraden-t...\nMini displacement pump - https://opencircuit.nl/Product/Mini-pomp-2.5V-6V\nPVC Hose (7-9mm) - https://opencircuit.nl/Product/PVC-Slang-7-9mm-tra...\nPerfboard ( 70 x 100 mm) - https://www.hobbyelectronica.nl/product/prototypin...\nAdditional:\nElectrical wiring; soldering equipment; 3D printer\nSkrews: 4x 30mm M3; 8x 10mm M3; 2x 12mm M3\nNuts: 14 x M3\nStep 1: Electrical Hardware Setup\nThe electrical circuit required for the system is shown in the figure above. The Raspberry Pi Zero (RPI) serves as the processing unit for the irrigation system. It instructs the displacement pump to disperse water to the plants whenever the moisture level, detected by the moisture sensor, is too low. Additionally, the relative humidity and the temperature of the environment is obtained using the temperature and humidity sensor.\nSince the user might be interested to know the conditions of their plants and the water cycle all important data is saved to a local database, of which the most relevant is uploaded to a locally run website.\nA glance at the different electrical connections and data paths:\nI2C Interface\nThe I2C interface on the RPI (SDA and SCL) allows for multiple master and slave connections. This standard allows you to connect multiple devices such as temperature sensors, moisture sensors, and ADCs.", "33" ], [ "This gives you the possibility to connect a large number of sensing units depending on how many plants you have and how much you would like to expand the system. It is important to know that each sensor requires a separate address for the I2C interface to work. This, unfortunately, limits the usage of similar components as they mostly come with 2-6 different address configurations.\nIn our case, we can connect,\n2 x SHT-31D temp and hum sensor with available addresses 0x44 and 0x45.\n4 x ADS1115 ADC with available addresses 0x48, 0x49, 0x4A and 0x4B\nADC Connection\nThe moisture sensor has an analog signal output, which the RPI cannot process as it has no onboard analog to digital converters. For this purpose, an additional ADS1115 ADC is required which can connect up to 4 analog devices. The ADC sends the converted signal to the RPI via I2C. As we established previously up to 4 ADS1115 ADCs can be connected, which allows for a total of 16 moisture sensors to be connected to the system.\nRelay Connection\nThe 2 module relay is used as a switch, to turn the displacement pump on or off. When the relay receives a HIGH signal from the RPI it turns the switch on, allowing for current to flow to the motors of the pump. When the signal is LOW the switch stays off.", "152" ], [ "Wine-Splash Lamp\nIntroduction: Wine-Splash Lamp\nThe project constitutes the design and assembly of a desk lamp featuring the visual appearance of wine dropping from a broken bottle.\nSupplies\nMaterial Supplies\n* Stereolithography 3D printer - No model specification necessary.\n* Photopolymer Resin Material - Red Colour - Black Colour\n* Isopropyl Alcohol - 99% desirable\n* Curing Machine - Not necessary.\n* E12 lamp socket\n* E12 LED light bulb\n* Electrical Wires - Less or equal to 18 AWG Gauge is desirable\n* Power cord with switch - No model specification necessary.\n* Furniture Felt Pads - No model specification necessary.\nAssembly Tools\n* Glue\n* M2.5 x 6mm screws - Screw kit\n* M2.5 screw threading - Not necessary\n* Wood screws\n* Soldering station - No model specification necessary.\n* Solder - No model specification necessary.\n* Heat Shrink - Not necessary.\n* Acrylic Plastic sheet - Not necessary.\nPainting Supplies\n* Acrylic Paint\n* Modeling Clay\nStep 1: Design\nThe overall design is broken down into a total of 11 components. Only components As resulted in a modified version of an already published design. All other components were custom designed using Fusion 360. The first 4 parts being A1-A2-A3-A4 are the bottom parts making a visual representation of a wine splash. Components B-C-D-E form the frame of the lamp in the form of wine dripping from the bottle. Components F-G-H form the lamp in the form of a broken wine bottle with a bulb socket inside to screw a light bulb. A visual representation of the overall assembly of each component can be found above. Further specification regarding the dimensions of each part is provided below.\nComponent A\nComponent A was broken down into a total of 4 parts which were originally gathered from a Thingiverse project. The dimension to take into consideration is the resulting trunk diameters since part B must be firmly attached to maximize strength. Although the exact trunk diameters can vary based on the type of printer used, the assembly of components A1-A2-A3-A4 was found to form an ellipse circular shape with diameters of 1.8 inches and 1.5 inches.\nComponent B - C - D - E\nAs component A must be inserted firmly within B, the lower diameter of component B is of great importance. It is recommended to first complete the printing process of components As and adjust the design of component B in accordance with the produced diameter of As. Also, component B-C-D was first designed as one component and broken down into three based on the maximum print volume of the 3D printer used.", "492" ], [ "As demonstrated in the visual, a difference in diameter of 0.02 inches allowed to insert each component B - C - D - E within one another tightly. A hole with a diameter dimension of 0.03 inches was made within each component to pass the electrical wire.\nComponent F\nComponent F being the wine bottle was designed using the reference dimension of a \"real\" wine bottle. A written note was added on the bottle, but can easily be removed or personalized if one wished to reproduce the project. The bottom diameter of the bottle was left at 2.9 inches to allow component H to be joined firmly.\nComponent G\nThe dimensions of component G were selected based on the dimension of the E12 lamp socket utilized. As there are wide varieties of lamp sockets, one can easily modify the component to appropriately mount the socket-based on its given geometry.\nComponent H\nThe design of component H was produced with the aim of creating a visual effect of broken glass. The inner diameter was set to 3 inches to insert firmly onto component F. A diameter difference of 0.1 inches between components H and F allowed to easily insert the two-component into one another without losing too much structural integrity.\nThe main design file can be downloaded from --> Fusion 360 Project Gallery if one wishes to reproduce the project. Feel free to modify and improve the design of each component. Productive iteration is key to improving design accuracy.\nStep 2: 3D Printing\nPrinting Parameters\nThe size of each component is limited by the maximum printing size of the 3D printer used. The Creality LD-002H printer was used for the project having printing dimensions of 130 x 82 x 160 mm. As represented in the visual documentation above, components A1-A2-A3-A4-F were printed individually whereas components B-C-D-E, as well as components H-G, were printed as a combination of parts to minimize print time. Important printing parameters for each component are elaborated below.", "646" ] ]

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[ [ "Putting a cat up for adoption\nI have 4 cats, 2 bonded, the others over time. The bonded ones I don’t believe are truly bonded, they don’t seem to care about each other at all.", "176" ], [ "One of them is very shy, terrified of any movement and of the other cats. She only comes out to eat and use the litter box and on occasion she wants to be petted but acts like she is terrified of me and the other cats are all times. Is it wrong for me to want to regime her in hopes that she would do better in a single quiet household? I’ve had her 1.5 years and she is 2.5 years old.", "679" ], [ "Should I return her?\nI have an adult male small dog. Looks like a poodle, but smaller. He’s 6 years old, has a reserved personality, doesn’t like anyone disturbing his business. We had to take care of his brother for some time but my dog never accepted him.", "888" ], [ "He would get super angry, bark at him and would bite him. So we decided to not take care of the brother again. I thought this behavior was because both were males.\nThinking things would be different with a female dog, I brought a female husky puppy. Same thing is happening, and I am scared they don’t like each other ever, and one the husky is bigger they’ll fight a lot 🥲 she learned to bark and always barks at him when she gets mad..\nI don’t know if I should return her, my mom y telling me that’s the best hung to do right now …", "888" ], [ "Should we get a 4th cat?\nWe have 3 cats and recently found a very friendly stray kitten (no chip, still waiting to hear back from posting to Facebook). 2 of our cats are male that get along relatively well, besides some rough playing every once in a while. The third is a declawed (previous owners fault) hypersensitive female and much smaller than the other 2, so she has to to be kept in our bedroom to avoid them picking on her.", "311" ], [ "We have neighbors who are interested in adopting a cat. We introduced them to the stray kitten we found and they seemed to really like her, but we were also wondering about introducing the hypersensitive female to them, since it seems like she would be happier as the only cat in the house. The only issue with that is that she takes a long time to warm up to people and I wouldn't want to \"burden\" my neighbors with a cat that wouldn't even want to be around them for 5+ months.", "679" ], [ "Change in behavior\nMale cat who is 8 years old and is neutered.\nI took my cat the the vet 3 weeks ago and ever since he came back home he's been agitated and growling and hissing at not only myself and my mother but also our other cat. He seems angry and doesn't want us to touch him or even pick him up.", "954" ], [ "He is also treating our other cat like he did when we first were introducing them 9 months ago. When she's in his presence he snorts and growls and hisses and if we try to interact with him while she is around his takes his aggressions out on us. He is acting like a new cat is in the house again.\nI did take the other cat to the vet about a month ago 4 times for an emergency so I thought maybe her scent might be off but his aggression only started that I noticed after we took him for his yearly work up.", "954" ], [ "Hypersensitive cat help\nShould we get a 4th cat?\nWe have 3 cats and recently found a very friendly stray kitten (no chip, still waiting to hear back from posting to Facebook). 2 of our cats are male that get along relatively well, besides some rough playing every once in a while. The third is a declawed (previous owners fault) hypersensitive female and much smaller than the other 2, so she has to to be kept in our bedroom to avoid them picking on her.", "311" ], [ "We have neighbors who are interested in adopting a cat. We introduced them to the stray kitten we found and they seemed to really like her, but we were also wondering about introducing the hypersensitive female to them, since it seems like she would be happier as the only cat in the house. The only issue with that is that she takes a long time to warm up to people and I wouldn't want to \"burden\" my neighbors with a cat that wouldn't even want to be around them for 5+ months.", "679" ], [ "My dog’s having a hard time meeting new kittens\nThe dog is around 13 years old, poodle terrier bigger than a cat. We tried (4 adults) introducing them (after a week behind a door) one adult per kitten and two with dog. He went for invasive sniffing, he barked in a kitten face. He couldn’t calm down.", "1011" ], [ "So we called it a day. A few days later I tried securing the basement, putting dog in his big carrier, and opening door for kittens to approach. He won’t stop anxiously barking, so they stay back. I really need advice! Will time help..??", "954" ], [ "Are cats more affectionate when recovering from something?\nOr maybe its because he is an outdoor cat. Anyway, I've been feeding and gaining the trust of 4 feral cats for over a year, since they were kittens. Prior to this, I had no care experience with cats, as all my pets have been dogs. I was able to gain their trust enough to pet all of them and pick up 3 of them (the other is a VERY flighty and sassy calico, so I rarely try to pick her up).\nThe other day one of them had half of his tail entirely degloved down to the bone. We don't know from what, but luckily the vets said it was a clean wound and not a bunch of torn ligaments.", "961" ], [ "They amputated it and told us to keep him in doors, which we were hesitant about as our home is not cat proof, but decided to keep him in a bathroom as I've seen people on YT do with newly adopted cats.\nHe usually is not that affectionate. Yes, he will let us pet him and likes his neck scratched but he doesn't seek us out that often. But as of now (its only been 2 or 3 days), he is on constant purr mode when I enter the room, pacing back and forth to get me to scratch his butt or neck. He also rolls over on the floor, like his brother (the most affectionate of them) does when telling us \"oh get this spot here\" (he is very spoiled lmao). This morning he climbed into my lap and laid down to go to sleep. When I tried with any of them before to put them in my lap, they'd immediately jump down.\nSo is this normal?", "311" ], [ "Moving out\nI’m moving out of my parents home for the first time in the upcoming weeks. The problem is my little kitty <PERSON>. I went and got <PERSON> a little after COVID for the family with my mom at an animal shelter. Ever since we first met her she had such a loving and different personality that we had to take her home that day. She’s almost 2 now and is truly a one of a kind kitty. She’s never hissed at us unless in a really stressful situation nor does she do things maliciously.", "679" ], [ "She is very vocal and likes to do things like fetch and stuff. I like to think of her as half dog half cat. Anyways whenever I think about having to leave and not bring her with me I get very upset. My mom and older brother are also very attached to the cat and I don’t want to take her away from a place where she has more company and people. She is also very close to my mother so I know she would get the company she needs. I guess I’m asking for peoples personal experiences or if I should get another kitty etc etc. Thank you :))", "679" ] ]

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[ [ "Exchange Carpet for Finished Concrete\nIntroduction: Exchange Carpet for Finished Concrete\nProject Summary: Quick tutorial to show how to remove carpet and finish the bare concrete underneath.\nThis is an entry in the Concrete Contest, please vote if you like it: Contest Link\nSupplies\n1. Vinyl Concrete Patch (Quikrete Brand)\n2. Concrete Wet Look Sealer (Homax Brand)\n3. Caulking\n4. Paint for Touch Up\nTotal Cost = Around $60\nTools:\n1. Razor Knife\n2. Claw Pry Bar\n3. Orbital Sander\n4. Putty Knife\n5. Shop Vac\n6. Mop\n7. Floor Scrubbing Broom\n8. Lots of Patience\nStep 1: Remove Carpet & Pad\nIn my case, the carpet was in good shape, and I didn't want to throw it away, but keep it if we ever chose to put it back down (or sell the house and leave the option for the next owner). So, I simply pulled it away from the tack strips, rolled it up, and put it in the attic. (The room is slightly larger than 10'X10')\nTIP: If your area is larger and you want to keep the carpet, you can cut the carpet into more manageable pieces by cutting into rectangular shapes and mark the backing with a Sharpie to show how it goes back together. Any good carpet installer can put it back down and seal the seams.\nFor the pad, there's really no reason to try to save it, especially if its glued down as in my case.\n(Forgot to take pictures before removing the carpet.)\nStep 2: Remove Carpet Tack Strips\nI wished I had Googled this before I did it, but there are some techniques to help minimize the size of divets inflicted on the concrete as the masonry nails are pulled free. I recommend looking those up as it will simplify some later steps and help minimize the negative cosmetic effects. I simply popped them off with the 90 degree side of a claw bar.\nStep 3: Prep the Floor\nThis step is mainly just cleaning.", "726" ], [ "Vacuum as you go using a floor scraper to remove as much glue, foam, and drywall texture over spray as you can.\nTIP:Don't put a huge amount of effort into removing the drywall texture over spray by scraping or sanding. Wait till the next step.\nStep 4: Wet Clean\nGet the entire floor fully wet. This will dissolve the drywall mud over spray and you can simply vacuum it up. Repeat this step several times until fully clean.\nStep 5: Detailed Cleaning\nThis is the tedious step where you need to go over every square inch of the concrete surface to remove marks and glue residue. I found 120 grit sandpaper and a lot of elbow grease was needed particularly to get the stubborn glue residue off.\nNOTE: Avoid using cleaners of any kind throughout this entire project. (I was tempted to use some Goo Gone to get the glue off). Any chemical residue, especially acidic residue if you were to use muriatic acid to clean, will react with the sealer, and cause the sealer to become cloudy and not clear. If you read the bad reviews for Wet Look Sealers where the people say it ruined their project; its because they didnt clean it well and had some type of leftover chemical residue.\nWetting the floor as you go helps to show where there is bare concrete and where there is still concrete with some kind of gunk stuck on the surface. This is by far the longest and most tedious step, but also the most important.\nTIP: Wet concrete will show much more details of the surface than dry concrete. Similarly, the sealer will show even more. So what may look like a faded red mark in dry concrete will look like fresh lipstick after sealing, so you can't spend too much time on this step.\nStep 6: Fill Divets\nUse vinyl concrete patch like this from Quikrete. Again, the cleaner the surface the better, so ensure there is no loose debris or dust in the divets. Also, lightly wetting the surface helps the concrete to bond. Use a putty knife to fill and flatten the surface. Let dry overnight.\nTIP: Once the holes are all filled in, use a pressure sprayer or spray bottle with plain water to gently mist the surface every hour or so. The slower concrete dries the better.\nPictures above were some very large holes that were filled in for some reason. (They were actually filled in with drywall mud to make them flush to the surface.) Mistake on the original slab? If anyone knows I'd be interested to learn. It wasn't from an old remodel either. (Use the same patch material and technique used there as for the smaller divets around the perimeter.", "353" ], [ "DIY Faux Wood Concrete Floors\nIntroduction: DIY Faux Wood Concrete Floors\nThe pandemic hit and I decided, like a lot of other homeowners, that it was time to do some upgrades around the house. I took on quite the project and decided to turn my garage into my very own man cave (erm woman cave). I knew I wanted to keep the existing concrete, but I hated the look of it. I had seen someone online post about turning their concrete floors into faux wood floors, so I scoured the internet looking for something that shows how to make faux wood floors on concrete but all the articles I could find didn't provide much direction.", "353" ], [ "I am a novice DIYer and I though \"Hey I bet I could come up with something and put it on instructables\". This is my first time writing an instructable so bear with me as I take you through my journey.\nSupplies\n* Painters Tape (1/2\" and 2\")\n* Painters Plastic\n* Broom & Dustpan\n* Shop Vac (optional)\n* Mop & Bucket\n* Garden Hose & Nozzle\n* Squeegee\n* Floor Buffer & Diamond Buffing Wheel\n* Paint Roller & Roller Covers\n* 3\" Paint Brush\n* Wood Graining Tool\n* Rags (lots of rags)\n* Gloves\n* Fan (optional)\n* Respirator\n* Concrete Paint\n* Gel Wood Stain\n* Wood Stain\n* Clear Coat for Concrete\nStep 1: Prep the Area\nFirst sweep up all the dust and debris on the floor.\nNext, tape up painters plastic to protect the wall from any paint splatter.\nI then rented a floor buffer from the orange big box store, if you've never used one of these machines before I highly recommend you find a video to watch showing how to use it.\nGo over the entire floor twice with the buffer, until the floor feels like 180 sandpaper, and then bring in a hose with a sprayer nozzle.\nSpray the floor with lots of water and used a squeegee and broom to push the water out of the area (if you're doing this indoors where you can't push the water out of an opening use a wet/dry shopvac to suck up all the water).\nNext use a mop and water to clean up the remaining dirt on the surface.\nThe most important part of this process is making sure the floor is clean.\nI'll say it louder for the people in the back THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THE PROCESS IS MAKING SURE THE FLOOR IS CLEAN.\nIf the floor isn't clean the next steps will be a waste of time and money as they will fail.\nStep 2: It's Faux Time!\nRead and follow all manufacturers recommendations for the paint you're using.\nPaint the floors whatever color you wish (I chose a Behr premium 1 part epoxy in the color khaki shade).\nOnce the floors are dry decide if you need a second coat of paint (mine did) and paint if desired.\nAfter the floors are painted to your liking decide what size \"planks\" you would like.\nFor this project I went with a 6 foot by 8 inch pattern.\nYou'll most likely need a partner to help with the taping of the floors (I did).\nUsing 1/2 inch tape (if I did this project again I would use 1/4 inch) lay out all of the \"planks\".\nOnce the planks are laid out take the gel stain (I used minwax gel stain in the color chestnut), and start painting the stain onto the plank (if doing this indoors I highly recommend a respirator). It doesn't matter what direction the brush strokes are going at this point the next step will straighten that out.\nTake the paintbrush and lay it as flat as you can and pull back in one continuous motion the entire length of the plank (don't worry if your \"woodgrain\" isn't straight, remember this is supposed to replicate real wood and nothing in nature is perfect).\nContinue until the whole plank has been smoothed out.\nNext take your woodgrain rocker and add in some wood grain. Remember no two pieces of wood look the same, we aren't going for uniform here.\nRepeat this process until the whole floor is done.\nOnce the gel stain has dried remove the tape and apply a thin coat of regular wood stain (I used minwax in the color espresso).\nAllow the wood stain to dry for a minimum of 3 days before applying a clear coat to the floors.\nLastly apply a clear coat to the floors.\nOnce the clear coat has dried step back and marvel at your new \"wood\" floors.", "626" ], [ "Coffered Ceiling DIY Demo | Finish Carpentry\nIntroduction: Coffered Ceiling DIY Demo | Finish Carpentry\nwww.howidothingsdiy.com\nIn this finish carpentry video I'll be doing a coffered ceiling demo to show how you can transform your ceiling by DIY. The best part, is you can DIY to save LOTS of money! This was one of my favorite projects because of how much it transforms a room.\nI'll walk you through the coffered ceiling framing, then installed the coffered ceiling boards and even the crown molding. You will also be shown how to caulk for perfect joints.\nPlease SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel for more great how-to videos!\nSupplies\n-Kreg Crown Molding Jig https://amzn.to/3v9Ncvi\nStep 1: Design\nCarefully design your layout. Measure out your room and determine how deep and how wide you want the coffers to be. My ceiling is 9ft high, but they can be wider on taller ceilings. This step will also help you plan out how much material you need. If you have access to 3D software, it's very helpful. Otherwise make a sketch.\nStep 2: Mark Out Layout on Ceiling\nCarefully mark out your layout on the ceiling following your design you made in the previous step. I used a laser level for perfect perpendicular references and then marked with a pencil. Observe the close up in my demo.\nStep 3: Cut and Install the Frame\nUsing straight wood the same width you chose for you bottom pieces, (in my case 2X4), install all frame pieces perpendicular to the ceiling joists. Ideally, this should span the entire room. Then install the frame pieces in the other direction. These will be shorter. Whenever possible, always screw directly to ceiling joists.", "584" ], [ "If absolutely necessary, you can use some heavy drywall anchors. Use them sparingly and only as a last resort. During this process, continue to check the two sets of frame pieces for square.\nStep 4: Install Vertical Trim Pieces\nFor my verticals I used 1x6 primed pine boards. Cut and install all of them in one direction, then cut and install perpendicular pieces. These pieces all need to fit nice and snug. They should be brad nailed to the frame pieces and brad nailed to each other on the ends. You can also glue them at the ends in addition to nailing.\nStep 5: Cut and Install the Bottom Pieces\nCut and install all of the bottom pieces in one direction. I like to install mine 1/4\" recessed for a shadow line, but this is just personal preference. My bottom pieces where 1x4 primed pine. Ideally, the first direction should span the entire room. Then cut and install the shorter perpendicular pieces. These pieces should fit snug and be flush with the other bottom pieces and should be installed using brad nails.\nStep 6: Install Crown Moulding\nCarefully cut and install crown molding using brad nails.\nStep 7: Finish\nSink all brad nails and fill holes. Then sand everything smooth and wipe down with a damp towel. Finally, caulk all joints and paint.\nEnjoy your beautiful ceiling!", "959" ], [ "How to Repair Textured Drywall (To Run Wire)\nIntroduction: How to Repair Textured Drywall (To Run Wire)\nwww.howidothingsdiy.com\nIn this video, I’m going to show you how to run wire through walls. I will cut and repair drywall with knockdown texture. I had to run electrical wire through the main floor of my house to get it from the basement to the attic for a new circuit to my garage.\nI'll cover how to cut out the drywall, drill holes in the top and bottom plates and then do a repair on textured drywall with knockdown texture.\nPleas SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel for more great how-to videos!\nSupplies\n-Drill with about a 3/4\" drill bit\n-Box cutter\n-Drywall saw\n-Drywall mud knife\n-Small piece of drywall\n-Drywall joint compound\n-Knockdown texture in a can\n-Knockdown knife\n-Pencil\n-Stud finder\nStep 1: Cut Hole in Drywall\nFind the stud locations with a stud finder. Mark the hole in-between the two studs. Mark a hole that is big enough to fit your drill and drill bit into and near the top and bottom of the wall. Now score the drywall with a sharp box cutter and the carefully cut out with a drywall saw. Do not cut too deep so you don't hit anything that might be behind the drywall.\nUsing the 3/4\" drill bit, drill a hole all the way through the top and bottom plates for the wire.\nStep 2: Fish Wire Through Wall\nFind where the hole comes out in the basement and then start feeding the wire up into the wall. Now fish the wire up to the top of the wall. Using a fish tape will help with this process. Finally push the wire up through the top plate. Be sure to push enough through so it doesn't easily fall out of the hole. Pushing lots of wire through the top plate will also make it easier to find in the attic.\nStep 3: Cut Drywall Patch\nCut a piece of drywall 1\" larger than the hole you're trying to repair. Then, score the actual size of the hole on the back of the patch as shown in the photo. Now remove the perimeter drywall, leaving only the front paper.\nStep 4: Install Drywall Patch\nTest fit the patch and then make a mark about 1\" around the perimeter.", "181" ], [ "Now remove the patch and scrap off the texture in that area. This will help the patch lay flatter. Now put an even coat of joint compound around the perimeter of the hole. Press the patch in place and smooth out the edges with a drywall knife.\nStep 5: Apply First Coat of Joint Compound\nOnce the patch is completely dry, apply a skim coat of joint compound over the patch. Feather the compound around the edges.\nStep 6: Apply the Second Coat of Joint Compound\nOnce the first coat is fully dry, sand smooth and apply a second coat of joint compound the same way as the first, but this time feather out the edges a little further out. You may have to repeat this step a third or fourth time until you achieve the desired result.\nStep 7: Prime the Repaired Area\nOnce the final coat of joint compound is dry, sand smooth and feather out the edges for a seamless transition. Prime the repaired area and a few inches beyond the repair. Priming before texture will allow the texture to dry evenly across the repair and old paint.\nStep 8: Apply Knockdown Texture\nOnce the primer is dry, lightly sand the area. Then shake the can of knockdown texture for 1 minute. Test the spray setting on a piece of scrap drywall. Once you are happy with the size of the texture, begin to spray on the texture in a random pattern over the patch. Blend the new patch in with the old texture.\nWait about 5 min or until the texture starts to haze over and, using a knockdown knife, gently knock down the texture.\nStep 9: Prime and Paint\nLet the knockdown completely dry. This should be around 2-3 hours. Then lightly sand the the texture. Then prime, let dry, lightly sand primer and paint.\nTake great satisfaction in doing it yourself and congratulations on a job well done!!", "556" ], [ "DIY White Oak Laundry Countertop\nIntroduction: DIY White Oak Laundry Countertop\nIn this video, I’ll be doing a laundry room makeover by making a DIY laundry countertop using white oak finished with <PERSON> monocoat, cotton white. I’ll walk you through milling the lumber, doing the panel glue up, installing supports to the wall studs, finishing with <PERSON> monocoat, and then installing the top.\nA laundry room countertop is a great laundry room update and a great laundry room makeover. It also is a nice surface for folding clothes and prevents things from falling behind the washer and dryer.\nThanks for visiting How I Do Things DIY! Please leave me a comment and subscribe for more videos like this!\nAmazon Affiliates links (Using my links helps support my channel) www.howidothingsdiy.com\nLaser Level- https://amzn.to/3MI7ggy\nCA Glue- https://amzn.to/36ezlv2\nRubio Monocoat Cotton White- https://amzn.to/3CELohl\nSupplies\nWood of choice for top\n2x4 for wall supports\nWood glue\nClamps\nLong screws to attached supports to walls\nStep 1: Milling Lumber\nFor this project I had to mill white oak before I could use it. Here is a video I made to explain that process.\nStep 2: Glue Up\nNow test fit the glue up to make sure the joints are good. Then apply a nice even coat of glue to the edges and then clamp up using lots of clamps and cowls to make sure the glue up is flat. Some glue should squeeze out of the joints. Let dry overnight.\nStep 3: Stabilizing Knots and Cracks With CA Glue\nIf you have any knots or cracks, stabilize them with CA glue. Fill the knot or crack with glue, spray with stabilizer, then sand smooth.\nStep 4: Flattening and Smoothing the Panel\nScrap off excess glue with a paint scraper. Then plane the panel flat, checking for flatness along the way. Now sand with a belt sander with 40-80 grit sand paper. Finally, work your way from 60-120 grit sandpaper with an orbital or palm sander.\nStep 5: Water Popping/final Sanding\nWater popping raises the grain to allow the the panel to be sanded smoother. It also opens up the grain of the wood to allow more finish to be absorbed.\nSpray the panel with water and then let dry completely, then resand with 120 grit sandpaper until smooth.\nStep 6: Adding Roundover\nIf the front edge is sharp, add a small roundover with a router to create a softer edge. This will prevent injury or damage to that edge later.\nStep 7: Attaching Supports to the Wall Studs\nUsing a laser level and a pencil, mark out where the bottom of the top will be on the walls.", "493" ], [ "Also mark out the wall stud locations. Using your reference line, install 2x2 supports with long screws into the wall studs. Use at least 2 screws per support, 3 if you can. Then add rubber cushion pads to reduce vibration and to prevent the top from sliding around.\nStep 8: Cutting Countertop to Size\nMeasure the front, middle and back of the wall where the top will be. The walls are more than likely not square, so the numbers might be different. Now, cut the top to length using a circular saw with a straight edge, or a track saw. The top should be about 1/4\" shorter than your measurements. You may need to test fit and remove another 1/8\" or so to make it fit properly.\nStep 9: Apply Finish\nNow apply your finish of choice. I used Rubio monocoat, cotton white. For this finish, clean the top with mineral spirits or Rubio cleaner. Then mix the hardener and finish per the Rubio's instructions. Then pour finish onto the table and spread evenly. Then work into the surface with a white abrasive pad. Finally wipe off the excess finish and let dry for 7 days.\nNow install your countertop and enjoy your functional laundry room makeover!", "76" ], [ "Japanese Inspired Self Filling & Cleaning Bird Bath\nIntroduction: Japanese Inspired Self Filling & Cleaning Bird Bath\nPROJECT SUMMARY: Fully automated bird bath that fills and cleans itself using two types of irrigation valves. Filling is accomplished with normal landscape irrigation, while cleaning is by a zero pressure ball valve timer that simply drains the basin. Both can be adjusted as needed for your individual design and needs. (BONUS: No electricity needed.)\nI just finished setting it up so the birds haven't found it yet. And I've heard there's been sightings of a very rare bird in our area. Hopefully he'll stop by soon and I can get a picture of him ;)\nThis project is an entry in the 1000th Contest. Please vote if you like it.\nWe really enjoy feeding and watching all of our native birds. We have woodpeckers, coopers hawks, roadrunners, cactus wrens, and hummingbirds all either frequent visitors or nesting on our property. Many years ago, I added an infinity overflow fountain using that same large dark blue pot for landscape aesthetics, and as a bonus all the birds really took to it, but it was a pain to keep clean, keep in working order, and also was a fairly large use of water and electricity since it ran 24/7. So the fountain has sat empty several years, but we really missed watching all the birds drink and clean from the water, especially the hummingbirds (Google \"Hummingbird Bathing\" videos. They are hilariously cute!).\nAs an alternative to the fountain, I created this concept primarily as a low water consumption replacement, but it wasn't until I stumbled on the zero pressure ball valve timer that the final component of the system design was realized. With that in place, the self cleaning feature was made very easy. (Without it, a pump would have been needed, which needs electricity, and the complexity and maintenance goes way up, which is what I was trying to avoid in the first place.)\nTerminology: Ill just refer to the Zero Pressure Ball Valve Timer as the \"Drain Valve\" hereafter.\nSupplies\n1. Vessel Sink (I somehow got his for $35, price is now corrected. Home Depot has a lot of very similar ones in the $40-$50 range.)\n2. 1\" PVC Slip Slip Union\n3. 1\" to 3/4\" PVC Reducer\n4. 3/4\" PVC Slip to Male Hose Thread (MHT)\n5. PVC Primer and Adhesive\n6. Adhesive Sealant or Silicone (I used this.)\n7.", "742" ], [ "Teflon Tape\n8. Zero Pressure Ball Valve Timer (\"Drain Valve\")\n9. 1/4\" Irrigation Hose and Fittings\n10. Bamboo (1-1/2\" Diameter)\n11. 1/4\" Jute Cord\n12. Electrical wiring and low voltage lights (Optional)\n13. Screen Material (Optional)\n14. Decorative Rocks (Optional)\nTOOLS:\n1. General Shop Tools\n2. Masonry Cutting Tools (Hole Saw and/or Grinder)\n3. Level\n4. Hammer\n5. Tools for Irrigation Hoses and Fittings\n6. Radial Arm Saw with Wood Cutting Blade (For Bamboo)\n7. Sandpaper\n8. Marine 2 Part Epoxy Putty\n9. Black Sharpie Marker\n10. Drill\nStep 1: Vessel Sink Drain Preparation, Part 1 of 4\nFor the sink itself the only objective is to attach \"Something\" to the drain hole that functions as a drain but then terminates to a Male Hose Thread (MHT) fitting:\nIn the second image above, the smallest part in the top right is the MHT fitting.\n(The MHT fitting will directly connect to the Female Hose Thread (FMT) on the Drain Valve.)\nNOTE: Hose thread is the common name for the type of thread on garden hoses\nI say \"Something\", because a normally plumbed sink would never attach to a garden hose. So, you basically have two options:\n* Attach a proper drain and work out how to convert to MHT\n* Mix and match PVC fittings that can effectively seal the sink drain hole while connecting to FHT\nI didn't even consider starting with a proper drain as only a few simple and cheap PVC fittings got me directly to a solution. And for less $$ than just a drain would cost alone, which would then add up quickly depending on the number of adapters/fittings to get to MHT, which might not even be possible.\nStep 2: Vessel Sink Drain Preparation, Part 2 of 4\nThe Slip Slip Union is made up of three individual parts.", "582" ], [ "Let's Build a Partition Wall\nIntroduction: Let's Build a Partition Wall\nWe built a partition wall in the garage to separate workspace from storage space.\nNow, if you're a professional reading this, you may be shaking your head at why we built our wall the way we did. Our design choices were made based on our skill and strength level, as well as the tools we own.\nJoin our newsletter for weekly projects!\nSupplies\nYou will find a complete this of material/tools with links on our website.\nMaterials:\n* Tapcon 3/16 in. x 3-1/4 in. Phillips-Flat-Head Concrete Anchors\n* (32) Simpson Strong-Tie 20-Gauge 2X Reversible Stud Plate Tie\n* Simpson Strong-Tie Strong-Drive 8d x 1-1/2 in. SCN Smooth-Shank Connector Nai\n* SPAX #9 x 2-1/2 in. T-Star Drive Flat-Head Partial Thread Yellow Zinc Coated Multi-Material Screw\n* (3) 10’ 2x4\n* (8) 8’ 2x4\n* (3) 4’x8’ Underlayment\nStep 1: Watch the Video for Step by Step Tutorial\nStep 2: Make a Plan\nIn a nutshell, this is our wall design. Three horizontal boards for the bottom and top plates, 8 studs and metal plates to hold it all together.\nThe garage ceiling was a little over 8 feet tall which necessitated an extra top plate to compensate for the extra ceiling height.\nStep 3: Determine Placement\nAfter determining where the wall was going to be built, we cut out the baseboard so the 2x4 would sit flush to the side wall. We chose this location based on the availability of a stud in the existing wall which would help support our new wall.\nStep 4: Securing the Base Plate\nAfter cutting the board to size, we marked the placement on the floor with painter's tape.\nWe used a rotary hammer and speciality bit to drill through the 2x4 into the concrete below. We continually vacuumed out the wood and concrete dust which was essential so the screws could be fully screwed into place.\nAn impact driver proved to be effective in drilling in the Tapcon screws. We used Tapcon screws just in case we ever wanted to remove the wall. Other anchor methods are permanent.\nBefore securing the top plate, the bottom and top plates were put on top of each other to mark the placement of the studs. The studs are placed 16\" on center, which means when you measure from the center of one stud to the center of the next one it should measure 16\".\nStep 5: Add Supports in the Ceiling\nWe had the luxury of being able to tie into an existing wall stud, but weren't so lucky when it came to tying into a joist in the ceiling.", "181" ], [ "We had to add some blocking to extend a 2x4 over the placement of the top plate so that we had something to screw into to support the wall.\nThose short pieces of wood extend the new joist to the position right over the top plate placement. The clamps were used to keep everything tight while screwing it into place.\nStep 6: Secure Top Plates to the Ceiling\nIn this photo we've already screwed one top plate into place and are now working on the second. Two top plates are actually not required in this type of non-load bearing partition wall. The ceiling in the garage is a little over 8'. We decided that we could use two top plates and 8' studs would fit without cutting or we could have used one top plate, purchased longer 2x4s, then cut them to size. We decided it made more sense to use the second plate.\nStep 7: Add in the Studs\nWith the bottom and top plates in place, it was now time to put in the studs. The first one was nailed to the existing side wall. The level showed the stud was perfectly straight!\nOkay, you're probably asking why we used those plate things rather than the traditional toenailing technique. Well, frankly, with our skill set and strength we could not physically do it. Through some research we found an alternative way to attach the studs to the bottom and top plates. These Simpson Strong-Tie stud plates were just what we needed.\nWe used a Ridgid pneumatic palm nailer with a Ridgid compressor to drive the nails. This was easy AND fun! This tool drives the nails with ease.\nAll the studs are in place and ready for the final step.\nStep 8: Add Underlayment to Back Side of Wall\nThe last step was to attach thin underlayment to the backside with a brad nailer.", "56" ], [ "How to Make Stacked Stones at Home\nIntroduction: How to Make Stacked Stones at Home\nStacked stones can get costly, I love the look of it and I think it would make for an awesome feature wall or at an entrance. They are versatile and be used indoors and outdoors projects. In this post, I will cover the steps to making your own stacked stones.\nWant to make your own Stacked stones?\nFollow the steps below.\nSupplies\nMaterials\n* Stacked Stone “Concrete Molds”\n* Cement All\n* Cement Coloring\n* Gloves\n* Dust Mask\n* Drill\n* Cement mixer Mixer (Mixing tool)\n* Set Control “Cement Curing slowing down”\n* Water 5 quarts “Per bag or a 4 to 1 mix”\n* Cement trowel\nTools Used\nGloves https://homedepot.sjv.io/5DoOn\nRidgid Drill / Driver- https://homedepot.sjv.io/qGWxb\nDust Mask https://amzn.to/2l9FW2u\nCement trowel\n5-gallon bucket https://homedepot.sjv.io/jGrDZ\nStep 1: Getting Started\nBefore taking on a large project, I would recommend trying out some samples first to get a feel for the process of making faux stones. As I mentioned in the video, just about any cement mix could work for these. If you want to produce this fast, I will recommend a fast-setting cement-like Rapid set. Rapid set is a more expensive option, but I have had excellent results. That’s a decision you have to make, how long are you willing to wait.\nThe “Cement All Mix” I used, cures with an off-white look to it, I think this makes it easier to aim for the color tones you may want. Whereas, other cement will cure with a gray look.\nI emptied a bag of cement mix into a bucket, then add water. To slow down the working time of the fast-setting cement, I added a pack set control to the water before pouring it into the cement mix.\nNote: When working with Rapid Set, it’s essential to mix well, so I would recommend mixing in a 5-gallon bucket. With other cement, you can use a mixing tub.\nStep 2: Mixing the Cement\nAfter pouring the water into the mix, use a mixing tool when working with the “Cement All“.", "353" ], [ "For other cement mixes, a shovel is fine. Mix the cement thoroughly, and scrape the walls of the bucket and the bottom. You can use a corded or cordless drill for this, just set the speed to one for a slower RPM.\nStep 3: Pouring Cement Into the Molds\nNow, it’s time to pour the mix into the cement molds, I found that it was less messy to add a small amount of concrete at a time, rather than pouring it out of the bucket. Next, level the cement to the lip of the mold to leave a flat surface. Make sure you are working on a flat surface.\nNote: Vibrate the mold to release trapped bubbles. You can do this by lightly lifting and dropping it on the work surface; this will also self-level it.\nI also experimented with color here are a few options.\nStep 4: Popping the Cement Mold\nIf you want to try the “Cement All mix” as the chemicals work to cure the concrete, it will generate some heat after about 15 minutes or so. You can water it down to keep it cool. With other cement mixes this is not necessary. The Cement All seem to be high maintenance, but I think it is growing on me.\nAfter about 35 minutes I heard the concrete separating from the molds, so if you hear some crackling noise, it’s nothing to worry about. I removed the mold around the 40-minute mark, I also continued to spray it down with water in a bottle.\nStep 5: Done\nI think working with these Stacked Stone molds could open up a world opportunity. Experiment with different colors and different cement to find out which one makes sense for you.\nHere are some other models of cement molds that can make awesome faux stones.\n* Flagstone: https://amzn.to/2lHTNgM\n* Stone mold https://amzn.to/2lI3POZ", "353" ] ]

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[ [ "BEAM Solar Powered Pummer (Heart Shaped PCB)\nIntroduction: BEAM Solar Powered Pummer (Heart Shaped PCB)\nThis is a project that I have been meaning to finish for over a year now. it is a heart shaped, BEAM based pummer circuit I made to charge up during the day and flash like a heart beating at night. The solar engine is a SIMD1 solar engine by <PERSON> and the pummer is a modified version of his power saver flasher which flashes 2 LEDs off the one oscillator.\nSee:\nhttp://solarbotics.net/library/circuits/bot_pummer...\nhttp://solarbotics.net/library/circuits/se_noct_SI...\nMy final design lasts about 3 hours from when the sun starts to go down.\nI personally love creating PCBs as a step up from breadboard or perfboard circuits, and I especially like designing PCBs that go a little beyond just connecting components. Hopefully through this Instructable you will see that while a PCB designer such as Eagle can be superbly powerful, creating a functional and aesthetic circuit such as the one presented here can be quick, fun and really accessible. I spent a day designing it all and only spent around $30USD on the PCB and components! Granted I already had assorted resistors, caps, and a soldering iron.\nStep 1: EDIT: What Is a Pummer?\nIt seems in the comments that there is a little confusion as to what a pummer is, which is very fair.\nBEAM robotics is a \"style\" of analogue circuit building, popular in the late 90s and early 2000s. BEAM circuits use minimal, analogue components, often to complete simple and very organic tasks. In BEAM robotics, a pummer is a type of circuit that displays a pattern of lights or sounds.\nSee the Wikipedia pages for a broader overview here:\nhttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BEAM_robotics\nhttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sitter_(BEAM)\nStep 2: Prototyping\nThe first step is to prototype the circuit on a breadboard.", "982" ], [ "I used a design almost exactly the same as Wilf's pummer from the link in step 1 however I replaced a 100k resistor at the output of the pummer with an LED and added a resistor between the output capacitor and the output LEDs to get a less bright, but longer flash. You can see here in the second photo the waveform at the node between the output LED and resistor in Wilf's original design. The peak above 2.2v is where the LED lights and the dip below just dumps charge through the 100k resistor. In my revision seen in photos 3 and 4, both the peak above 2.2v as well as the lower peak create a flash (because the voltage is being regulated to ~2.9v by the blue LED, in photo 4 you can see the other 2.2v difference, this time between the 2.9v rail and the node between the output LEDs). This revision does mean that the reference voltage LED does have to be a higher voltage than your output LEDs (and hence the circuit will run for less time) however there is less wasted charge. I like this way better however 2 oscillators, with the second acting as a slave to the first and using something closer to <PERSON>'s original circuit would also work. Just let me know if I can clarify any of this and excuse the photos of the oscilloscope screen, I had some trouble saving to USB.\nAs I was almost following <PERSON> design exactly, I mostly used this step to calculate what value components I was looking at using to make the flashes beat at a heart-like rate.\nOnce I had the circuit operating as expected I used this circuit to calculate roughly how long my pummer would last once it started flashing at night.\nTo calculate how long our circuit will last we can use 2 formulas based on the charge stored in, and the charge leaving the storage capacitor.\nFirst we know that Q=CV that is, the charge in the capacitor, \"Q\", is equal to the capacitance x the voltage across the capacitor.\nWe also know the formula for current I=Q/t where \"I\" is the current, \"Q\" is charge and \"t\" is time.\nRearranging these we can get I=(C*ΔV)/Δt where \"ΔV\" represents the change in voltage and \"Δt\" change in time (in seconds)\nHence, by measuring the voltage at one point in time and then measuring it again a certain amount of time later (I usually go about half an hour for more accurate results) we know have all the numbers on the right half of the equation and we can see how much current the circuit is drawing from the capacitor on average.", "552" ], [ "Free-Formed Solar Chirping Bird Pendant Using 0603 SMD Components (BEAM Electronics)\nIntroduction: Free-Formed Solar Chirping Bird Pendant Using 0603 SMD Components (BEAM Electronics)\nI had one weekend between finishing quite a stressful university term and starting to study for my exams so I thought, \"You know what would be really relaxing, finally trying to make a free-frormed circuit using 0603 components.\". No way that could be stressful right? 😂😂\nThe final circuit chirps on and off for about 20-40 seconds (watch the video to hear it chirping) and then stays off for another 1-2 minutes before chirping again.\nI originally just wanted to make this as small as possibly but in doing so I realised it could actually be made as a pendant and I am very glad I turned it into a pendant in the end as I think the frame adds so much to the circuits aesthetic and protects the circuit from getting damaged. I don't intent to wear this often (in fact I hardly expect to let it see the sun at all because, as I know from previous chirping circuits, the noise gets old quick) but I reckon this would be the absolute perfect thing to wear to a maker faire or similar event!\nIn the final photos in the introduction you can see my first attempt to miniaturize this circuit by designing a PCB back in 2019 (this was one of my first PCB projects and it doesn't even work, the solar panel is too small!). As well there is a comparison in size between the breadboarded version, PCB, and free-formed SMD version\nEdit: wobbler has kindly amplified the chirping audio as it was a little quiet in the original video. If you are struggling to hear the chirping in the video try the audio file attached below. It is still very true to how the circuit sounds in real life just louder and clearer =).\nSupplies\nEDIT: I don't know what happened here but my supplies section seems to have disappeared at some point so I will summarise the important components again.\nResistors: All 0603.\nCapacitors: 0603 for the 1nFs and the rest had to be 0805 as they are much easier to source. I also used a couple of axial 10nF caps.\nDiodes: 1N4148WS.\nPhotodiode: I used a VEM6010X01CT-ND though any choice will probably do and you may be able to find smaller with a more suitable pinout.\nSolar panel: KXOB25-02X8F-TB which is a very small and efficient 5.5v panel. Quickly becoming a favourite for me!\nSuper capacitor: 100mF, 5.5v square super capacitor from KEMET.\nPiezo element: 9x9mm externally driven piezo speaker.\nInverter IC: 74HC14 SOIC (hex Schmitt inverters)\nBrass: 0.02\" (0.51mm) for most of the circuit.", "1003" ], [ "3/64\" (1.19mm) for the frame 1/32\" (0.81mm) for the loops.\nTools: Most important for this project is a clean soldering iron tip, flux, and good solder. I used multicore 60/40 solder at 0.7mm which was fine but at times I did want thinner solder. Also important for soldering are fine tweezers, Blu Tack, and perhaps some form of magnification (I was lucky I did not need magnification for this project as I am not used to working through a microscope or anything so it gives me headaches). You will also need various jewellers pliers (I bought a set from my local electronics hobby store that work great) and sids cutter for forming the brass.\nStep 1: Schematic\nThis is yet another circuit that was originally designed by <PERSON> way back in 199 (found on the solarbotics.net site). I have modified it a little, mostly to change the frequency of chirps, and a few other modifications to make it sound less robotic.\nThe circuit is essentially just 4 oscillators. From left to right, the first and second oscillators turn on and off slowly to turn the other oscillators on and off. In Wilf's original circuit this creates some kind of randomness in the number of chirps but the circuit is constantly chirping. With the components I chose, the circuit turns off for a very long time (1-2 minutes) and is on for a shorter time (20-40 seconds) based on the second oscillator values (10uF, 10M, 5M). The first oscillator values (1uF, 10M, 3.", "552" ], [ "Solar BEAM Marble Machine\nIntroduction: Solar BEAM Marble Machine\nLadies and gentlemen, I present to you, my marvellous \"Solar BEAM Marble Machine\"! A brass marble machine with a solar powered, solenoid actuated, lever lifting mechanism!\nThis machine uses capacitors to store energy from the sun and, once charged, dumps all that energy into a coil, pushing away a magnet, and lifting a small steel ball through the use of a lever.\nIn previous BEAM related Instructables there was some confusion surrounding my use of the term BEAM. I don't think it is such a common concept anymore. How I understand it is that BEAM is a hobby electronics movement from the late 90s to early 00s that focused on turning found or common components into analogue circuits and robots. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BEAM_robotics\nThe circuit used here is a type of very common BEAM circuit called a solar engine which stores charge from a solar cell (or other low current power source) in a capacitor until there is enough usable energy (i.e. the capacitor voltage is high enough) to do some meaningful work. This is normally used to run a small motor in short bursts even when the sun is not strong enough to power the motor directly. It is especially helpful in this particular machine as there is no way a solar panel of this size would be able to provide the current necessary to drive the coil while capacitors have no trouble. Furthermore, even if we had the necessary power, we would not want current running through the coil at all times.\nFor this project, the word BEAM works on two levels, one being for the electronics style, and the second being that the main lifting mechanism is a lever or... a beam =D\nNote: In the past I have tried taking all photos on a white background but I found, with the work I do, it often gets dirty too quick. I have tried a black background here, let me know what you think.\nStep 1: The Lever\nOne of the most important parts of this design is the lever as the coil and magnet creates a rather strong force but only when the magnet is close. Hence, we can use a first order lever to translate a strong force over a short distance into a smaller force but over a much larger distance\nStep 2: The Solar Engine\nThe other important part of this design is the solar engine which, as mentioned in the introduction, stores energy from the solar panel in some large capacitors until there is enough to do some useful work.", "780" ], [ "I used a SunEater I solar engine which you can read more about here http://faq.solarbotics.net/suneater/suneater.html with some slight tweaks to work with my coil. In the past I have only used a simple FLED based solar engine however they are always finicky to get working correctly and especially with a coil dumping so much power. So I opted for the slightly more complicated, but much more robust SunEater!\nYou will see on the left of my schematic we have 2x 4700uF caps in parallel, these form the bulk of our energy storage. I used low ESR, 16V capacitors. The low ESR lets the capacitors discharge quicker and I would have preferred 25V as if something does fail and the solar panel is in full sun it can get quite close to 16V and potentially damage the capacitors however I could not find 25V low ESR capacitors this large at my local electronics store. You will also notice a 100uF capacitor which I use to help provide the initial burst of energy as its ESR will be much lower than that of the 4700uF. I'm not sure if this capacitor even helps in this particular build however it has helped with similar circuits in the past so I keep including it. I also have a small, 10nF capacitor across the power supply as without it, sometimes the circuit would lock up and oscillate.\nI also swapped out the green LED which is used as a voltage reference for when the circuit should trigger and replaced it with an 8.1V zener diode. This means the circuit doesn't trigger until the capacitors get to around 8.3V which I found is the right amount for my circuit. If you were to build something similar you may have to experiment to get the right value. In fact, in my final design, I left this diode replaceable for future adjustment.\nI also expected high current to flow through the final PNP/coil path and although in testing the final design, it seems I could have in fact gone with a smaller transistor, I opted to use the TIP32 power transistor as it should be able to better handle large currents.\nWe also need a flyback diode across the coil to drain any excess power created by the coil's magnetic field collapsing on itself which could potentially damage components.", "552" ], [ "Tiny, Solar Powered, Light Seeking BEAM Bot (Mini Photopopper)\nIntroduction: Tiny, Solar Powered, Light Seeking BEAM Bot (Mini Photopopper)\nToday I will show you how I made this tiny little robot!\nSince I first mentioned the word in an Instructable and got a couple questions about it, every new BEAM Instructable I feel the need to explain my understanding of the term \"BEAM robotics\". Wikipedia will tell you that BEAM stands for Biology Electronics Aesthetics and Mechanics, and though I have heard conflicting theories about the name in the past I do feel that BEAM embodies these aspects. It is a style of electronics developed in the late 90s and early 2000s using mostly found components in ways that are quite elegant or clever, in order to create the most basic intelligent robots.\nThis particular style of robot know as a photovore, phototrope or photopopper, meaning it uses some very simple logic to locomote toward light.\nMaking tiny photopoppers has been done before, indeed even I have tried (in the video you can see my attempt from 2018 built on a PCB I designed), but I am really happy with how this particular one turned out and am excited to share the process with you all!. I have included links to other examples below, but I wanted to make this new bot for a couple reasons.\n1. I knew I could do better than my predecessors just because these (relatively) new IXOLAR monocrystaline solar panels from digikey seemed to have incredible specs and oh boy did they work awesome in the end! Solar panel efficiency is tied to surface area so this means when you shrink a panel in both dimensions, you get much much less power. But these IXOLAR panels are 25% efficient which is crazy! And not only that. they claimed to work fine in partial shade or even indoors which is something that other monocrystaline and polycrystalline cells tend to struggle with.", "51" ], [ "You will notice in the video that I actually have another photopopper using very similar parts but I used an amorphous cell for that one because I wanted it to work indoors (where amorphous cells shine) and I was still unaware of how good these monocrystaline cells had become. Again, you can see for yourself in the video, but the new cell is smaller than the old one, AND it pops around twice as fast indoors! Though this may also have something to do with the lower trigger voltage for this new bot =P.\n2. This point also ties into the solar panel power conundrum but I actually wanted this guy to move like bigger photopoppers so I was happy to sacrifice some miniaturisation for good functionality and again, I think this project achieved that. The other examples either wouldn't move too well or are still a little big but I really wanted to try make this guy as similar as I could to bigger photopoppers...just smaller! I could maybe have used smaller parts like some BPW34 cells, and some more clever circuitry/special motors to deal with lower voltage, really Im not sure, but more than anything I really just wanted this guy to be as small as possible and still move \"properly\"\nPhotovore here on instructables using a flexible amorphous cell and vibration motors:\nhttps://www.instructables.com/Nano-Photovore-BEAM-...\nAnd a great, albeit short, write up on a much more similar photopopper to this one:\nhttps://www.fetchmodus.org/projects/beam/photopopp...\nA super cool example using 8x BPW34 cells and an aluminium cap. Seriously, if you haven't seen <PERSON> videos check this out! Such incredible production value... but still a little big for my liking ;).\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3RKTKfLhuPE\nAll of these were great inspirations for if this was even feasible as well as for specific parts (I will touch more on components in the next step).\nStep 1: Parts\n2x Voltage monitors: MCP112-195\nFor this particular photopopper I chose to use a voltage monitor that triggers at ~1.9V, with the added voltage drop in the diode and the voltage added by the photodiodes, this means that the circuit triggers when the storage cap reaches around 2.3V. In my previous attempt I used MCP112-270s that trigger at 2.7V which meant the capacitor needed to charge to around 3.1V! This is unnecessarily high for the motors I used but may be right depending on your other component choices.", "832" ], [ "LED Juggling Knives\nIntroduction: LED Juggling Knives\nThis project was inspired by one of my friends, who is an avid juggler. He was looking for glow in the dark juggling balls and I wanted to try my hand in building it. As I worked through the design I realised that it would be much easier to build knives instead of juggling balls and I moved forward with that. With my knowledge of the 4017 IC, I decided to add a bit of flourish to the lights, which are now in the form of LEDs, and that is how I ultimately ended up with this project.\nA set of juggling knives that can be also used in the dark for better visuals.\nThe LEDs are lit in a sequence, just like a led chaser. This is done by a 555 timer circuit in Astable mode combined with a 4017IC. The housing is relatively simple, and it was 3D printed.\nThis is a relatively challenging project to build with a lot of components required.\nSupplies\nNote: The following supply list covers the making of 3 juggling knives, as all juggling knives usually come in sets of three. If you want to build only 1, you can divide the quantity by 3.\nCircuitry BOM:\n1) 3 x NE555 IC + 8 pin IC holder (link)\n2) 6 x IN4007 Diodes (link)\n3) 3 x 4.7k Ohm resistor (link)\n4) 3 x 3.3k Ohm resistor (link)\n5) 3 x 4.7uF 10V electrolytic capacitor (link)\n6) 3 x 40mm by 50mm Perf Board. (Any size bigger than this is fine. You can trim it down later) (link)\n7) 2 x Male to Male Jumper Cable 40pcs. (link)\n8) 3 x 4017 IC + 16 pin IC holder (link)\n9) 3 x 10k Ohm resistor (link)\n10) 25 x 5mm LEDs in Red colour (5 are extra just in case) (link)\n11) 25 x 5mm LEDs in Blue colour (5 are extra just in case) (link)\n12) 25 x 5mm LEDs in Yellow colour (5 are extra just in case) (link)\n13) 3 x 9V Battery + connecting clips (link)\n14) 12 x 3mm Dia 20mm long bolts (link)\n15) 3 x 3mm Dia 6mm long bolts (link)\n16) 3 x Tactile latch switch (link)\nTools and Equipment:\n1) Soldering Iron + Soldering wire\n2) Desoldering pump\n3) Pliers\n4) Wire cutters + Wire Strippers\n5) 3D printer or access to a 3D printing service provider\nStep 1: Understanding the Circuit (555 Timer)\nThere are two parts of this circuit. 555 timer and 4017 IC. I will be exploring the former in this step. You can ignore this step if you are familiar with the 555 astable circuit.\n555 timer circuit\nThis circuit is a very common favourite of all electronics geeks. The schematic for the circuit can be seen in the first image.", "982" ], [ "Here is a link to the website where I got the circuit image from https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/waveforms/555...\nFor this project, the circuit is wired up in an astable configuration. This means that the voltage output of the chip alternates between high and low at a constant frequency. The voltage output vs time graph of this circuit can be also seen in the image.\nIt is a square wave. Essentially the circuit produces pulses at a constant rate. This can be used to make an LED blink. The frequency of the pulse can be controlled used the values of the two resistors and the capacitor. These are respectively R1, R2, and C1 in the image. The equation used to calculate the frequency from these values has been given in the equation.\nThe final term is the duty cycle. It is the percentage of time for which the output is high. This can be also calculated with the equation in the image. Unfortunately, if the duty cycle is too high it leads to bouncing (link) or the connecting circuit can't even detect the pulse/low period.\nTo rectify this issue, this circuit has an additional 2 diodes compared to the conventional circuit. This is to make the duty cycle more even 50%-50% between on and off. (link)\nStep 2: Understanding the Circuit (4017 IC)\nThe 4017 IC works with the 555 timers.\nThe 4017 IC has multiple output pins: pins 1-7, 9, 10, and 11. Each of these output pins is set in a sequence as shown in the image.", "552" ], [ "Joule Thief Torch With Casing\nIntroduction: Joule Thief Torch With Casing\nIn this project you will learn about how to build a Joule Thief circuit and the appropriate casing for the circuit. This is a relatively easy circuit for beginners and intermediates.\nA Joule thief follows a very simple concept, which is also similar to its name. It extracts or \"steals\" joules (energy) out of low-voltage systems. E.g. Most non-functional batteries actually have about 20%-30% of juice still in them. However their voltage is too low, and it is not able to power anything. The Joule thief circuit can actually harvest this low-voltage energy from batteries (or any source) and power a standard 5mm LED light quite brightly. The output is not limited to a LED.\nThis is a very easy, practical, and useful circuit to have in your house. If you can't find a working battery that you need urgently, or you want to make complete use of the batteries you buy, this would be perfect for you.\nFinally, this Instructables will also showcase a 3D printed casing for the Joule thief. However, if you do not have a 3D printer then you can check out my Laser cut acrylic box or design a casing yourself. Even just a plastic box would be satisfactory. I would not recommend leaving the circuit without a casing.\nStep 1: Supplies and Tools\nSupplies:\n1. Perf board\n2. AA battery holder (can be for 2 batteries or 1)\n3. Ferrite toroid (with two coils over it)\n4. Tactile latch switch\n5. 5mm LED (any colour)\n6. 5mm LED bezel + nut\n7. NPN transistor (I used C1815)\n8. 3mm Nuts x4\n9. 3mm Bolts x2\n10. Wires\nTools:\n1. Soldering wire and iron\n2. Wire-cutter pliers\n3. Multimeter (if you don't have one you can make one DIY. Check out my Arduino powered multimeter)\n4. Desoldering pump (optional)\n5.", "98" ], [ "Needle-nose pliers\n6. Pencil/pen/marker\n7. Superglue\nStep 2: Circuit Schematic and How It Works\nHere is a very that very nicely explains how a joule thief works:\nCREDIT TO ELECTRONICGURU FOR IMAGES\nStep 3: Securing Battery Holder to Board\n1. Using a black marker, I marked where the holes in the battery holder were on the PCB.\n2. I used the wire cutter pliers to make the holes in the perf board. Soon enough it was big enough for the 3mm bolt. If you have a handheld or electric drill this process is a lot easier. It is important to test if the holes are big enough for your bolt.\n3. I added an extra set of nuts between the perf board and battery holder to stop the bolt from protruding out of the other end so much.\n4. The two remaining screws were used to secure battery holder onto the perf board.\nStep 4: Understanding C1815 Transistor\nSome transistors have different schematics and pinouts. Therefore, just as clarification, I wanted to state which pins of the transistor are base/collector/emitter\nMoving from left to right with the flat side facing you, the pins are base, collector, and emitter in that order. This is exactly as what is shown in the diagram.\nStep 5: Preparing Ferrite Toroid\nI got the ferrite toroid from a broken RC car circuit\n1. Taking thin enamelled copper wire I wound the coil around the ring-shaped ferritetoroid 7 times. See picture\n2. The wire was cut after 7 coils with length to spare for soldering and connections. The second coil started in the same place where the first coil was started. Following the shape of the first coil, the second coil also was pulled out after 7 winds and cut with excess.\n3. To differentiate between the coils coil 1 had much longer legs than coil 2.\n4. Since my ferrite toroid was very small, I used a very thin copper coil wire. Most likely 26 SWG. If your toroid is bigger then you can use bigger and even normal wires\n5. After this, you would have 4 different wire ends. 2 for coil 1 and 2 for coil 2. These 4 can also be written as 2 for the starting side and 2 for the end side.\n6. To simplify remembering the coils, I gave the following names to the coil ends. S1, S2, E1, E2. The S and E stand for start side and end side. 1 and 2 stand for the coil number.\n7.", "611" ], [ "Light-Tracking BEAM Robot Head\nIntroduction: Light-Tracking BEAM Robot Head\nHey all! Super excited to finally be sharing this robot with the internet. It is a light-seeking robot that is entirely free-formed using BEAM style analog logic, that means no microcontrollers, and it runs entirely on solar power. It is a bit long but definitely watch my 30 minute explanation video if you want more detailed information on how everything works.\nWhen I was very very young and just starting to get interested in electronics, these analog BEAM circuits were already going the way of the dinosaurs to make way for these newfangled PICAXE controllers or even an Arduino if you were lucky enough! As such, I only ever saw the tail end of the BEAM movement but something about those circuits still tickles me to this day. There is something about manipulating the movement of electrons at the most base level, no abstracting it with 1s and 0s, in order to make a pile of silicone... intelligent!\nThis circuit is much more finicky, took a tonne more work, and is nowhere near as powerful/versatile as a microcontroller based robot that would do the same thing, but I hope you will agree that there is something special about him. Maybe I am getting too philosophical here but there is something about his analogue nature that makes him more lifelike, gives him more personality than even a complicated digital program. Indeed, he was out of commission for just over a week while I waited for time to fix his motors and I really did miss him sitting there on my desk.In the demonstration videos you will even see a couple of animals/insects who I caught curiously inspecting the robot, I don't think they could tell if it was alive or not either ;).\nIn any case, I think that all of this philosophy is secondary to the main function of this robot which is... to look nice. I definitely think of this robot as an electronic sculpture and the \"life\" that the circuitry brings all just adds to the art.\nAll of my Instructables fall under 2 camps.\n1.", "51" ], [ "Follow along with the instructions as I have shown.\n2. Mostly just inspiration and not something to follow exactly.\nThis Instructable falls cleanly in the second category and you would definitely need to understand the whole schematic and do lots of prototyping and testing if you were to attempt this project or something similar.\nI will try not write as much as I tend to do as this is already a very large project so if I miss anything just ask in a comment.\nFinally, some of this is out of order as I was jumping ahead and making sections while waiting for other parts. So I have presented it in the most logical order build wise but there may be some continuity errors.\nEDIT: For anyone curious, my marble machine and tiny photopopper are both still going strong!\nSupplies\nTools\nMy 2 favourite hand tools are files and a jewellers saw. My 2 favourite power tools are my belt grinder and drill press. Alongside sandpaper and blowtorches for soldering these are the only tools I used to make the whole mechanical assembly.\nFor the free-forming I used a chisel tip soldering iron (only bringing out the fine tip for corrections I had to make to already densely populated sections of the free-forming). I also used a set of needle nose pliers from my local electronics hobby store and a pair of side cutters for all of the wire shaping.\nComponents\nI cant list all of the components here so I will just list the important ones:\nSolar panel: SM531K12L from digikey, 1.37W at 8.29V. It is quite pricey for a single panel but definitely the most efficient indoor solar panel I have come across at this size.\nMotors: 15RPM 3V N20 motor (45RPM works also and were the motors I originally chose but they were too fast. I bought a lot of N20 motors to test and it would seem that the 45RPM and 15RPM use the same speed motor with different gearing, while the 30RPM motors use a weaker motor with the 45RPM motor gearing. So while 30RPM would probably be the better choice, the 30RPM motors I bought did not work with the circuit I designed.\nICs: 74HC240s for the octo inverters and a 74HC14 for the hex inverter for the audio processing.\nCapacitors: There are many caps in this build but I wanted to mention that I generally chose long life electrolytics and high(ish) quality ceramics for a longer lifespan.", "98" ], [ "Arduino Powered Multimeter\nIntroduction: Arduino Powered Multimeter\nIn this project, you will be building a voltmeter and ohmmeter using the digitalRead function of an Arduino. You will be able to get a reading almost every millisecond, much more precise than a typical multimeter.\nFinally, the data can be accessed on the Serial monitor, which then can be copied onto other documents, e.g. excel, if you want to analyze the data.\nAdditionally, since typical Arduinos are limited to only 5V, an adaptation of the potential divider circuit will allow you to change the maximum voltage that the Arduino can measure.\nThere is also a bridge rectifier chip incorporated into this circuit which will allow the multimeter to measure not just DC voltage but also AC voltage.\nSupplies\n1) 1 x Arduino nano/Arduino Uno + Connecting cable\n2) 5cm x 5cm Perfboard\n3) 20 x jumper cables or wires\n4) 1 x 1K resistor\n5) 2x resistors of the same value (doesn't matter what the values are)\n6) 1 x 16x2 LCD screen (Optional)\n7) 1 x DB107 bridge rectifier (Can be replaced with 4 diodes)\n8) 1 x 100K or 250K potentiometer\n9) 6 crocodile clips\n10) 1 x Latching push switch\n11) 1 x 9V battery + connector clip\nStep 1: Acquiring the Materials\nMost items can be purchased off amazon. There are a couple of electronics kits on amazon which provide you with all of the basiccomponents such as resistors, diodes, transistors, etc.\nThe one I have found to give me a bang for my buck is available on this link.\nI personally had most of the components already as I do a lot of these types of projects. For the inventors out there in Singapore, Sim Lim Tower is the place to go to purchase all electronic components. I\nrecommend Space electronics, Continental electronics, or Hamilton electronics on the 3rd floor.\nStep 2: Understanding the Circuit (1)\nThe circuit is actually slightly more complicated than you might expect. This circuit makes use of potential dividers to measure the resistance and add the feature of variable maximum voltage for the voltmeter aspect.\nSimilar to how a multimeter can measure the voltage at various stages, 20V, 2000mV, 200mV so on and so forth, the circuit allows you to vary the maximum voltage the device can measure.\nI will just go over the purpose of the various components.\nStep 3: Understanding the Circuit: Purpose of Components\n1) Arduino is used for its analogRead function. This allows the Arduino to measure the potential difference between the selected analog pin and its ground pin.", "769" ], [ "Essentially the voltage at the selected pin.\n2) The potentiometer is used to vary the contrast of the LCD screen.\n3) Building on that the LCD screen will be used to display the voltage.\n4) The two resistors of the same value are used to create the potential divider for the voltmeter. This will make it possible to measure voltages above just 5V.\nOneresistor will be soldered onto the perf board while the otherresistor is connected using crocodile clips.\nWhen you want more precision and a max voltage of 5V, you would connect the crocodile clips together without any resistor in between. When you want a max voltage of 10V you would connect the second resistor between the crocodile clips.\n4) The bridge rectifier is used to turn any AC current, maybe from a dynamo, intoDC. Additionally, you now don't have to worry about positive and negative wires when measuring the voltage.\n5) The 1K resistor is used to make the potential divider for the ohmmeter. The drop in voltage, measured by the analogRead function, after 5V is inputted into the potential divider will indicate the value of the R2 resistor.\n6) The latching push switch is using to switch the Arduino between the Voltmeter mode and Ohmmeter mode. When the button is on, the value is 1, the Arduino is measuring the Resistance. When the button is off, value is 0, the Arduino is measuring the Voltage.\n7) There are 6 crocodile clips coming out from the circuit. 2 are the voltageprobes, 2 are the ohmmeterprobes, and the last 2 are used to vary the max voltage of the multimeter.\nTo increase the maximum voltage to 10V, you would add the second same value resistor between the varying maximum crocodile clips. To keep the maximum voltage at 5V, connect those crocodile pins together without any resistor between them.", "1003" ] ]

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[ [ "A beloved Trinidadian vendor regains his rightful place selling nuts at cricket matches · Global Voices\nScreenshot of “<PERSON>,” who is used to selling his fresh and roasted peanuts at sporting events like West Indies cricket. Image is taken from a YouTube video entitled, “Support for JUMBO de Nuts Man”, uploaded by <PERSON>.\nThe Caribbean Premier League (CPL) is a short-form regional cricket tournament held annually since 2013. Commonly called Twenty20 cricket, the 2019 tournament began on September 5 at the Queen's Park Oval in Port of Spain, Trinidad's capital, and the final will take place on October 12, quite fittingly at the stadium in south Trinidad named after cricket great <PERSON> — but this year, it is not the athletes who are taking centre stage — it is a “Nuts Man”.\nFood blogger <PERSON> describes the proverbial Nuts Man as “a fixture on the street food scene and at sporting events”:\nSometimes he moves around with a cart, other times with a tray around his neck. […] people line up, prepared to wait, if a particular vendor’s reputation has dubbed his roasting style worthy. You can get your nuts plain, salted, or honey roasted.\nNuts vendors are an important part of the Caribbean cricket scene.", "641" ], [ "As cricket fans flock to the matches to watch the play and other spectators show up just to soak in the party-like atmosphere, people get hungry, and nuts (traditionally peanuts and cashews) are a good away to quell a rumbling stomach without having to leave your seat.\nAs far as cricket goes, perhaps the most well known Nuts Man — at least at the Queen's Park Oval — is <PERSON>. Known for his flamboyant style of tossing packets of nuts with great accuracy to spectators scattered all over the stands, <PERSON> has been a fixture of Caribbean cricket since 1971.\nNo sooner had the 2019 CPL tournament started, however, than he put out a video, widely circulated on social media channels, which registered his discontent at being told he could not sell his nuts at the event because Sunshine Snacks, a local conglomerate, was the official sponsor:\nSocial media erupted in support of him, with some posts entreating the Oval to “reinstall this landmark”.\nFacebook user <PERSON> mused:\n[The] Thing is, fellas like Jumbo and Nuts Landing [another nuts vendor] have a grassroots ad campaign that would destroy SS [Sunshine Snacks] in the Oval in an open market…which technically is what capitalism claims to be based on. So when SS wants to lock down rights to an event…that isn't a free and open economy.\nPerhaps the most creative expression of support, though, came in the form of a YouTube video uploaded by <PERSON>, whose son performed an extempo verse (an improvised form of calypso):\nThe message got through. Four days after the first CPL 2019 match, Sunshine Snacks announced that it had partially waived their rights of exclusivity in order to allow independent nuts vendors to sell their products at the tournament.\nGeneral Manager <PERSON> explained:\nWhen the cricket fans spoke out in favour of all nuts sellers being there as a critical part of the Oval Cricket Culture and the game experience…we simply decided to put our hearts ahead of our strict sponsorship rights.\nSocial media users widely commended the company's gesture, but not everyone was in support of <PERSON>'s tactics. On a public thread, some Facebook users felt that his methods were at odds with the sponsors’ paid rights; others questioned whether <PERSON> had gone through the proper procedures which might have granted him the privilege of selling at the event and one Queen's Park Cricket Club insider, who spoke with Global Voices via WhatsApp but preferred not to be named, felt that compromise should have come from both sides.\nAs <PERSON> summed it up:\nIf it wasn't for those big businesses and their sponsorship money there may not have been any cricket\nIn the end, the inclusivity of the Caribbean cricket experience prevailed, leaving enough room for everyone.", "892" ], [ "Farewell to <PERSON>, the Commentator Who Helped West Indies Cricket Find Its Voice · Global Voices\nScreenshot of a YouTube tribute video to cricket legend <PERSON>, which shows him in the commentary box during a match.\nOn May 11, 2016, the cricketing world lost a piece of its heart: Barbadian cricket commentator <PERSON> passed away after a long illness at the age of 75.\nKnown the world over as “the voice of West Indies cricket”, <PERSON> was much more than a sports analyst. While his commentary was always insightful, measured and fair, his voice — clear, with a melodic Barbadian lilt that some describe as “champagne on air” — conjured up the experience of Caribbean cricket. When <PERSON> took the microphone, no matter where you were in the world, you were transported to a cricket ground where warm breezes blew, the sparkling sun threatened to blind you if you dared look skyward to follow a ball that was hit for six, and the energy, both on and off the field, was electric.\n<PERSON>'s voice, to West Indian cricket fans, was like home, and <PERSON> himself that benevolent father figure who gave unconditional love. He adored West Indies cricket; lived it and breathed it, and was a worthy steward of the game, regardless of whether the team's performance was mediocre or outstanding.\nIn the 50-plus years that <PERSON> was the soundtrack of West Indies cricket, he had seen both extremes: the glory days of the 1970s and 80s when the West Indies dominated the sport and the team's sudden, steep decline in the 1990s and early 2000s, until the popularity of Twenty20 cricket started to play a role in the side's revitalisation.\nUnsurprisingly, <PERSON> was a sharp critic of the West Indies Cricket Board‘s (WICB) lack of vision and poor administration of the game. Nevertheless, the WICB paid him a stirring tribute, saying:\nThe lifelong work of <PERSON> centred around West Indies cricket and he made a lasting contribution to the game. […] He was not just a great journalist, but also a great ambassador. He represented West Indies wherever he went. He educated people around the world about our cricket, our people, our culture and who we are. His voice was strong and echoed around the cricket world. He enjoyed West Indies victories and shared the pain when we lost. He gave a lifetime of dedicated service and will be remembered by all who came into contact with him.\nA lifetime indeed.", "357" ], [ "The son of journalist <PERSON> who was editor of the St. Lucia Voice newspaper, the young <PERSON> reported on his first cricket match (Australia vs. the West Indies at Barbados’ Kensington Oval) at just 15 years old. He was a solid and prolific writer, branching out into broadcast journalism in the early 1960s thanks to a stint at a Trinidadian radio station. He never looked back, going on to work with some of the most prestigious international broadcasters, including Australia's Channel Nine, the BBC and Sky Sports.\nWhen <PERSON> first began filing cricket stories from different parts of the world, they might not make the sports pages for days; the immediacy with which news of his death flooded social media sites like Twitter and Facebook may very well have amused him, but the fact that he was trending speaks to the impact that he made — on the region and beyond.\n<PERSON>. Grew up listening to ur commentary. Will never forget ur voice @phanilv @mithildave @itsme005 :@vicky_64\n— Girish (@Girish_Dongre) May 12, 2016\nJust told my old man, who's devastated. RIP <PERSON>, one of the greatest to hold a microphone at the cricket. Our game is poorer today.\n— <PERSON> (@_sairamkrishnan) May 12, 2016\nDifficult to say goodbye to <PERSON>, the last legend of Radio Commentary era where non-playing commentators ruled in equal measure.\n— <PERSON> (@hembhatt14) May 12, 2016\n<PERSON> didn't play the game professionally, yet he knew it so intimately; this was one of his greatest strengths. Barbados-based journalist and blogger <PERSON> wrote of his passing:\nIt’s the ultimate firetruckery for every one of us, and most of us will be lucky not to have to face it for a long time yet, but it came this morning for the most important man in West Indies cricket history who never raised his bat or sent down an over. What the now late <PERSON> sent down, instead, were millions of words, every one of them up in the block hole, about our cricket.", "641" ], [ "Caribbean netizens take to ‘extempo’ music to spread COVID-19 safety messages · Global Voices\n<PERSON> from Trinidad and Tobago takes up the COVID-19 extempo challenge. Screenshot taken from a YouTube video uploaded by King <PERSON>.\nTrinidad and Tobago is known the world over as the birthplace of calypso music and a key aspect of the genre is “extempo”. Short for “extemporaneous”, this lyrically improvisational form of calypso — which typically involves live contests in which performers spontaneously invent lyrics around given themes — is both popular and entertaining, due in some measure to the biting picong between the combatants of these extempo wars.\nSuch interactive performances typically include spectators echoing one of a number of refrains, the most common of which is santimanitay!, a derivative of the French phrase sans humanité (“without mercy”).\nIn the midst of the coronavirus pandemic, many Caribbean netizens — as well as members of the diaspora — have heeded the call of Trinidad and Tobago's reigning Extempo Monarch, <PERSON>, to try their lyrical prowess in a COVID-19 extempo challenge.", "264" ], [ "<PERSON>, three-time holder of Barbados’ Calypso King title, also claimed credit for starting the trend — but regardless of who issued the initial clarion call, the riposte was phenomenal.\nAmong the “first responders” were three-time Junior Extempo Monarch, <PERSON>, who would certainly appreciate that extempo, being a competitive sport of sorts, is ultimately judged by the inventiveness of the lyrics, and the poise and confidence with which they are delivered.\nSome of the best offerings included Trinidad and Tobago's current Calypso Monarch, <PERSON>, who urged Facebook users to “stay at home…don't go and roam”:\nOn a serious note 'bout this COVID-19\nYou have to wash your hands and practice proper hygiene\nAnd social distancing will make corona subside\nSo please comply and keep your ass inside\n<PERSON> took the opportunity to challenge some of her peers, including former Calypso Queen of Trinidad and Tobago, <PERSON>, who readily jumped in via YouTube:\nThe government trying the best they can to pound some sense into citizens\nMan, every day they on the TV, asking, begging, pleading with we\nDistance yourself, help flatten the curve; do them simple things your nation to serve\nNow I adding my voice, telling <PERSON>, ‘Stay home, stay safe and please don't get sick…’\nOn YouTube, Grenadian singer <PERSON> warned that the coronavirus does not discriminate, so everyone should strive to self-isolate:\nI sit home listening to the news thinking\n‘Bout the deadly virus COVID-19\nSad, a lot of people dead and they gone\nThe rich, the old, the poor and the young…\nIn fact, several singers from Grenada got together to do the challenge and send a strong message to the public about how their behaviour can help stop the spread of the virus.\nSt. Lucian musician <PERSON> also contributed, causing the country's prime minister, <PERSON>, to call him a “true patriot and ambassador”. His tune included these lyrics:\nLadies and gentlemen, the message now is clear\nCorona is serious but have no fear\nWe can win this war, yeah, we can win with ease\nAll we ask is that you kindly stay at home please…\nOf course, not everyone who participated was a professional singer, but many had musical talent, like Trinidadian Facebook user <PERSON>, who sang:\nThese are strange times and you know it's true\nCOVID-19 has changed everything that we do\nWe were living our lives with normality, going to work, visiting friends and family\nWe thought that those times would forever last\nBut this global crisis put that in the past…\nThis unnamed man from Dominica also offered a worthwhile contribution:\nWell, I say it must be a curse, this COVID-19 virus\nAnd it taking over the world, every man, woman, boy and girl\nIt affecting every country, cripple the world economy\nEverybody now search their soul, I say Jah taking back control…\nThree generations of the Caribbean diaspora, two of whom are health care workers, also teamed up to do the challenge.", "264" ], [ "West Indies cricket’s super spin bowler, <PERSON>, dies at 92 · Global Voices\nPhot of the late Trinidadian spin bowler <PERSON>, who passed away in England on February 27. 2022. Screenshot taken from a YouTube video of a Trinidad and Tobago Television (TTT) news report entitled ‘Cricket – West Indies Pays Tribute To Sonny Ramadhin.’\nThe year was 1950. <PERSON>, a prodigious, right-armed spin bowler of East Indian descent — the first player of his ethnicity to be chosen for the West Indies cricket team — was about to make history. At just 21 years old, the Trinidadian had recently made his test cricket debut on June 8 at Old Trafford cricket ground. Just 12 days later, his impressive teamwork with fellow spin bowler <PERSON>, and the powerful batting of the legendary “three Ws” (<PERSON>, <PERSON> and <PERSON>) would help usher in the West Indies’ first win against England at Lord’s. The team would go on to win the entire test cricket series, their first away from the Caribbean.\nNews of <PERSON>'s death, on February 27 at the age of 92, hit cricket fans hard, as he was the last surviving member of that team. His grandson, <PERSON>, a retired cricketer himself, posted on Twitter:\nSad day – great innings grandad https://t.co/5Q04tNwagU\n— <PERSON> (@kylehogg22) February 27, 2022\nHis cricketing career was a stellar one, with impressive statistics — 158 wickets in 43 tests matches — but no one, especially not London's West Indian immigrant community, would ever forget <PERSON>'s sparkling debut. His bowling performance, in tandem with <PERSON>, even inspired a popular tune by Lord <PERSON>, “Victory Calypso,” which made mention of “those two little pals of mine, <PERSON> and <PERSON>”.\nOn learning of his passing, Cricket West Indies president <PERSON> offered condolences, calling <PERSON> “one of the great pioneers” of the sport in the region:\nMany stories are told of his tremendous feats [as part of] cricket’s ‘spin twins’ [when] West Indies conquered England away from home for the first time.", "641" ], [ "This iconic tour is part of our rich cricket legacy […] we salute <PERSON> for his outstanding contribution to West Indies cricket.\nPart of <PERSON>'s legacy as a pioneer lies in the fact that his presence on the team broke a colour barrier. In an interview with the UK Guardian in 2020, he said:\nI felt very proud, because Indians didn’t have much chance in those days. It was only white or black players, but I opened the doors. After me there were a lot of good ones who made it.\nFrom Guyana, the Berbice Cricket Board confirmed that <PERSON> had paved the way for other players of Indian ethnicity to have successful careers with the West Indies cricket team.\nTrinidadian politician <PERSON> added:\n[B]y his living example, he showed us all then, and now, how ethnic, geographic, religious and class differences can be overcome through hard work, discipline, motivation and a desire to be the greatest in your chosen field.\n<PERSON>, Trinidad and Tobago's minister of sport and community development, remembered <PERSON> as “a dominant force through his ability to turn the ball both ways”:\nHe has proudly represented this country and has inspired many cricketers and sports aficionados, both nationally and internationally. He was indeed a great cricket legend.\n<PERSON> was born on May 1, 1929, in the southern village of Esperance. The son of Indian indentured workers, his parents died when he was just two years old, leaving him to be raised by other family members. By the time he was 13, he was working at the Palmiste sugar estate, where the overseer would, as the story goes, often give him the job of preparing the cricket pitch. This nurtured his love for the game and it was here that he honed his skills, eventually trying out for the West Indies team during trial runs in 1948; he was selected the following year. A park in the Palmiste area, where <PERSON> found his cricketing roots, has a statue in his honour.\nFriends, colleagues and admirers remembered the great spin bowler as “humble and pleasant,” and ever passionate about the sport, even after he was dropped for <PERSON> in the middle of the West Indies’ 1960 test against Australia.", "357" ], [ "Like the US, Trinidad & Tobago Won’t Be at the 2018 World Cup, But They’re the Only Ones Smiling About It · Global Voices\nThe World Cup 2010 <PERSON>. Photo by <PERSON>, CC BY-SA 2.0.\nOn the night of October 10, 2017, a sprinkling of football enthusiasts went to the Ato Boldon Stadium in central Trinidad to see a World Cup qualifier match between Trinidad and Tobago and the USA. The small Caribbean nation had absolutely no chance of going to Russia in 2018, but the United States did — if they managed a draw with Trinidad and Tobago's team.\nOne of the reasons football is the world's favourite sport is that, at its best, it's an unpredictable game. With just one goal, things can turn on a dime. So while the result of this particular match might have been dismissed as a foregone conclusion, what happened on the field was anything but. The match resulted in Trinidad and Tobago walking away with a 2-1 victory and the USA being driven off their #RoadToRussia.\nThanks to an unfortunate own goal by US defender <PERSON>, coupled with a brilliant strike from Trinidad and Tobago's <PERSON>, the twin island republic secured all three points in the round, leaving the USA team — and fans — shell-shocked.\nPopular sports website Wired868 described it this way:\nWhat came next was a right-footed screamer that arrowed into the far corner. It seemed to belong in an entirely different match and it certainly illuminated a contest that had, up to that point, been low-tempo and scrappy.\n<PERSON>’s eyes opened as wide as saucers, the Trinidad and Tobago bench was in uproar and, all over CONCACAF, word of <PERSON> (<PERSON>) spread like wildfire; the United States were in trouble at 0-2 down.\nA November to remember\nWith the USA down, the spirits of Trinbagonian supporters were up, mostly because of a date that will be forever burned into their memory: November 19, 1989. This is when Trinidad and Tobago's national team, then affectionately known as The Strike Squad, had the World Cup within their sights for the first time ever. Had they simply drawn with the US in that all-important match, the team would have been the first from an English-speaking Caribbean nation to qualify. Trinidad and Tobago lost that match 1-0 and the nation was devastated.", "910" ], [ "Curiously, the 30,000+ spectators were later given the FIFA Fair Play Award for their good behaviour when faced with such disappointment and overcrowding, which was little consolation.\nNine years later, in France, Jamaica's Reggae Boyz would become the first to represent the English-speaking Caribbean on the World Cup stage. Even though Trinidad and Tobago's World Cup dreams eventually came true when the twin island nation qualified for Germany 2006, the memory of that 1989 qualifier against the USA is still a sore point.\nIn that context, it is understandable how October 10, 2017 might be interpreted as a comeuppance. Like Trinidad and Tobago back in 1989, the US only needed a draw to be assured a spot. Twenty-eight years later, it was their turn to feel the sting of defeat. It is the first time since 1986 that the US will not be participating in the World Cup.\nBring on the schadenfreude\nThe site TTWhistleBlower could not resist gloating, despite the Soca Warriors’ (as the national team is now called) underwhelming performance throughout the qualifying matches. It also noted the poetic justice of the goal that assured Trinidad and Tobago's victory:\nFor Trinidad and Tobago, it was a happy ending to an otherwise disappointing tournament where they ended last on the six-team table. The Warriors won just two matches out of 10. […]\nIt was 2-1 in the 36th minute when <PERSON> smashed a swerving shot from the right flank past <PERSON>. <PERSON>’s father <PERSON> was a member of the national team which failed to qualify in 1989.\nDisgraced former FIFA vice president, <PERSON>, who hails from Trinidad and Tobago, was also quite happy to rub salt in the wound.\nWhile some social media users were critical of all the rejoicing, <PERSON> tried to explain the enjoyment surrounding Trinidad and Tobago's victory:\n[The] argument is that we didn't qualify so what's the big deal. […] Of course that's the larger context, and we're in far worse a state than the US team. I don't think amusement at us eliminating the US (and the reactions to it) and recognising the depressing state of our local football (and much else on the home front) are mutually exclusive.", "910" ], [ "Men’s Relay Team Gives Trinidad & Tobago an Early Independence Day Gift With Historic IAAF Win · Global Voices\nScreenshot from a NAAA TT video of the Trinidad and Tobago 4 x 400 relay team about to receive their gold medals at the 2017 IAAF World Championships in London, England, on August 13, 2017.\nThe 2017 IAAF World Championships, which ended on August 13, 2017 in London, England, left Caribbean netizens brokenhearted that <PERSON>, widely acknowledged as the Greatest of All Time (GOAT), ended his international track and field career with a bronze medal in his signature event, the 100-metre dash.\nJust as gut wrenching was the fact that the Jamaican track team failed to place in the 4 x 100-metre final, as <PERSON> pulled up during the last leg, unable to carry on due to injury. But the region's spirit was lifted when, seemingly out of nowhere, Trinidad and Tobago clinched the gold in the last event, the 4 x 400 relay.\nThe win didn't actually come out of nowhere, of course, no matter how surprised the commentators may have been. The team copped silver two years ago at the World Championships, and clearly had first place in their sights this time around. Facebook user and sports enthusiast <PERSON> noted what a significant achievement the team's win was for the country:\nCONGRATS to all of Team TTO's male quartet of <PERSON>, <PERSON>, <PERSON> and <PERSON> who has just created HISTORY by winning the men's 4X400m at the World Championships being held in London in a New National Record and World Leading time of 2:58.12. Way to go GENTLEMEN.\nThe win marked the first ever gold medal for Trinidad and Tobago in the 4 x 400 event — the team dedicated their victory to the country, especially in light of the twin island republic's upcoming 55th anniversary of independence from Great Britain, which will be marked on August 31, 2017:\nFacebook user <PERSON> was thrilled with their performance. She posted an image of the leaderboard, noting that the Trinidad and Tobago team won in a world leading time:\nFacebook user <PERSON>'s status update, which says, “Well yes! World leading time too! Every single man ran like a beast for this medal!!!” Used with permission.\nIn a later status update, her heart was full after noticing the display of regional solidarity from the athletes — unity that continued online:\nFacebook user <PERSON> status update which reads, “Oh my God.", "910" ], [ "Watching the Jamaicans celebrate with our gold medal team! Priceless.” Used with permission.\nThe joy was infectious. As <PERSON> observed during her afternoon workout up Lady Chancellor Hill:\nEverybody on Chancellor like they going for gold this evening #sweetTandT #worldchampions #dohdragdeflag ??\n— <PERSON> (@tillahwillah) August 13, 2017\nOn CNC3 Television, Trinidad and Tobago's Facebook page, user <PERSON> was happy for something other than crime stories to dominate her newsfeed:\nCongratulations! You've made us proud. Thanks for shining some light in the darkness that has been plaguing our country. ??\nOther social media users praised the team's determination and hoped that the athletes would be aptly rewarded for their efforts — far more than the typical pronouncement of a national holiday.\nIt is common knowledge that the members of the national athletics team have had no government assistance for about three years. While the National Association of Athletics Administrations of Trinidad and Tobago (NAAATT) does attract some corporate sponsorship, the majority of these funds is put towards operating the association; athletes competing at world-class level often do so largely on their own steam.\nIn a public Facebook post, <PERSON> made a point of posting a photo of Tobago-born <PERSON>, perhaps the most accomplished 400-metre runner to hail from the country, receiving his gold medal. <PERSON> ran the heats and was therefore an indispensable part of the team:\nTo one and all, please let's don't forget <PERSON>, and the part that he played in helping Team TTO getting into the finals of the men's 4X4… Congratulations to all 5 gentlemen on a job well done…… Photo:- Team Manager <PERSON> presenting <PERSON> with his gold medal.\nTrinidad and Tobago Team Manager <PERSON> presenting <PERSON> with his gold medal. Photo shared in a public Facebook post by <PERSON>.", "641" ], [ "COVID-19 causes Trinidad and Tobago to cancel its Carnival for 2021 · Global Voices\n“Carnival Tuesday meggie”: Carnival lover <PERSON> gives a “meggie” – a hand gesture that brings the thumb and four fingers together in a sign of derision, scorn or rejection. Photo by <PERSON>, CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.\nIt may have been anticipated, but now it's official: thanks to the COVID-19 pandemic, Trinidad and Tobago's 2021 Carnival celebrations have been cancelled.\nPrime Minister <PERSON> made the announcement on the afternoon of September 28, calling the national festival “the perfect environment for the spreading of the virus.” Despite the inevitable economic blow the decision will have, he said, he's not prepared to take the risk.\nReaction, predictably, was split. While most people applauded the decision, calling it both “expected” and “solid”, others wondered about the fate of those whose income depends on the national festival. When one Facebook user called the decision “insane”, <PERSON> retorted:\nNO! it's realistic and logical is what it is. Everyone else has already gone ahead and cancelled theirs. I do not possibly see how any “right thinking” citizen of T&T could possibly think to put the country under further threat from Covid-19.\nTrinidad and Tobago Carnival 2020 was already over by the time the country recorded its first case of COVID-19 in March.\nOther countries that host annual Carnivals, including Brazil, have already postponed their 2021 events, but it is only the third time in history that Trinidad and Tobago has put theirs on hold—a history that Trinidadian author <PERSON> chronicled in his book “Parade of the Carnivals of Trinidad, 1839-1989″.\nIn the chapter etitled “Carnival in a World of War,” <PERSON> noted that the festival continued as usual during World War I, which was fought largely in Europe. After the war ended, the 1919 celebrations were known as “Victory Carnival”.", "1019" ], [ "During World War II, the festival did not take place at all between 1942 and 1945, although “spontaneous” celebrations happened on May 8 and 9, 1945 in honour of Victory in Europe (VE) Day, and on Aug 15 and 16, 1945 for Victory over Japan (VJ) Day.\nThe country's street festival was postponed from February 1972 to May 1973 because of the threat of the polio virus, so it is not as if the move to put off next year's Carnival celebrations is unprecedented. In fact, many netizens saw it coming, but hoped that a virtual celebration might take its place.\nIn a Facebook status update on June 24, <PERSON> predicted that “promoters are going to have to Zoom in fete-goers to the music and the vibe from concert halls in ‘foreign’ [abroad]!” Virtual Carnivals are something that costume designers like <PERSON> have already been experimenting with—the band she and her husband created for Notting Hill Carnival 2020 was showcased online.\nTrinidad and Tobago's Carnival stakeholders have also expressed excitement about the opportunity to share their creativity in the virtual realm. Facebook user <PERSON> suggested:\nWe keep forgetting that there are elements of carnival that are outside the realm of the street parade. We should adapt and showcase our calypso, pan, extempo and dimanche gras much like how sporting events are still being carried out.\nBoth calypso music and the steelpan instrument originated in Trinidad and Tobago. Extempo refers to an extemporaneous form of calypso, and Dimanche Gras, literally translated as “Big Sunday,” is a grand show at which coveted titles like the Calypso Monarch are decided.\n<PERSON> of Trini Good Media, which produces the “Talk ‘Bout Us” podcast, crowdsourced opinions on what a virtual Carnival might look like. Most commenters felt that simply delaying the celebrations would be best, with <PERSON> suggesting that it may be an opportune time “to re-focus to community Carnivals and limit the size of large bands.”\n<PERSON> added:\nAside from the issue of a vaccine being made available globally, it’s difficult to envision any Carnival 2021 at all, due to the commercialization of the festival, and the limitations of two major sources of revenue: Government expenditure will be prioritized elsewhere, and corporate entities will slash sponsorship budgets.\nHaving a 2021 Carnival may jeopardize the planning cycle for one in 2022. It will be almost impossible to execute, as Carnival mas [costume] production is essentially a 12 month cycle.", "264" ], [ "Rendition of Trinidad & Tobago’s national anthem strikes wrong note with the country’s president · Global Voices\nScreenshot taken from a YouTube video rendition of Trinidad and Tobago's national anthem, uploaded by JR Videos.\nTrinidad and Tobago have just finished hosting the Caribbean Festival of Arts, more popularly referred to as Carifesta, which took place at various locations throughout the twin-island republic from August 16-25, 2019.\nThe event was created in 1972 as part of an effort to bring people of the region together through art and culture, music and literature, film, crafts, dance and heritage exhibitions. The event received a warm public reception, but the biggest point of discussion has been the delivery of Trinidad and Tobago's national anthem during the closing ceremony.\nShortly afterward, the Office of the President issued a media release, which took issue with the rendition. President <PERSON> stated:\nBetween August 16 and 25, 2019, we […] were reminded of the things that bind us and the possibilities that exist, through culture, for harmony among nations. […]\nHowever, a discordant note was struck at the closing ceremony, when an unacceptable rendition of our National Anthem was performed. The National Anthem must be sung in its original music; no introduction or coda can be added or other artistic licence taken in its rendition. The offence is compounded when it occurs at an official function, as was the closing ceremony of CARIFESTA XIV.\nThe president added, “Our National Anthem, like our National Flag and Coat of Arms, identifies us as a nation and must at all times be accorded the utmost respect.” The website of the Office of the President addresses the issue of protocol regarding the national anthem, which was composed by <PERSON> in 1962, the year Trinidad and Tobago achieved its independence from Great Britain:\nThe National Anthem should be accorded the respect due to it when played, and on no occasion should it be treated with scant courtesy.", "1019" ], [ "While it must be played in the original music, the pitch, speed and tone can be changed.\n“Pitch” is defined as a standard measure of highness or lowness, “speed” refers to the pacing of the rendition and “tone” describes the pitch, quality, and strength of a sound.\nThe reaction on social media was split: Some felt that the president was simply fulfilling her role in reiterating the protocol for national emblems; others — among them, musicians — believed that her stance was unprogressive.\nOn Facebook, musician <PERSON> wrote:\nAs a musician and musical curator of a 5,000 member T&T music network myself, I would say that personal aesthetic musical opinions of officials ought not to become the official state legal position based on their rank. I'm defending our musical sistren from charges of disrespecting the anthem…take a look, this may be unusual but it is a very respectful performance…the musical variation preceding and post anthem are not disrespectful either…aesthetically, it is fair to criticize if you don't like the rendition but not to assign disrespect to her intentions […]\nHe continued:\nIf the national anthem is played on [steel] Pan for example, it won't be standard or original either, but it's not inherently disrespectful to vary from the original […] take some time to look at artistic reinterpretations of other countries anthems at sporting events, whether hit or miss. In art, the creative door must be open and not closed…\nIn a telephone interview with Global Voices, music educator <PERSON> noted that every instrument — including the voice — has its own unique tonal quality which is often shaped by performance. She was cautious about the inference that there should be strict adherence to the anthem's original score, since many renditions veer away from it. The line “islands of the blue Caribbean Sea,” <PERSON> explains, should be sung with an even rhythm, but deviation from this is quite common, as is including a fermata at the end, which is not part of the original composition.\n“Music is a living thing,” <PERSON> says. “If <PERSON> had said that the rendition didn't appeal to her stylistically, that would be a different conversation, but I can attest to the fact that quite often when the anthem is played on the steel pan, or played in another genre of music, ‘artistic license’ is taken.”\nHowever, musician and teacher <PERSON>, who also spoke with Global Voices by phone, said that this instance was not a case of melodic paraphrasing and that the way <PERSON> sang the first line (even though she sang it correctly a second time) “misrepresented the anthem”.", "495" ] ]

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[ [ "FOV reduction with Fresnel\nI have a simple optical system that works based on energy collection. (i.e. I have a photo diode that counts photons). I don't do any imaging. For my application, I need to have a specific FOV and I have been trying to build this FOV using off the shelf Fresnel lenses. (my FOV is 200x200mm high at 300mm away from the lens system, I am trying to reflect this to a 2.5x2.5 detector)\nI basically, take an image of my FOV (i.e. assume my FOV is an image) at target distance, I ray trace through three fresnel lenses (F=15, F=15, F=10.2 all same diameter), I position the lenses such that each one is 1 mm away from each other on the same axis.", "791" ], [ "Each one is 2mm thick. The final image of FOV falls on to the detector.\nWhen I measure each lens individually, they all adhere to their spec (ie. focal length), however when I construct my system (really putting one after the other with 1mm gap), I think there is a problem:\n1. The energy collection is not what it is supposed to be (the diameter of the first lens is 10mm, so I expect roughly 10x amplification but I only see around 5)\n2. I take a bright light (white LED) and shine to lens system (at this moment system is in my hand and I am reflecting to a surface) hoping to see a bright image of the source. I do not see the source brightly, if anything it is very weak.\n3. I take out the third lens and use the first two and repeat the bright light experiment and same result, image is brighter compared to three lens but not as bright as a single lens experiment. I assume the loss is about 5% on each surface so this loss on brightness is puzzling.\nNow, does it make sense to do what I am trying to do with Fresnel lenses? Assuming my trace is correct (I am pretty sure it is), where else I should be looking?\nWhat other methods you recommend, I really need a very low cost optical front end to reduce the FOV to detector.", "791" ], [ "Calculating UV radiation dose in a moving airstream\nI am trying to calculate the UVC irradiation dose absorbed by an airstream passing around a set of multiple (3) UVC lightbulbs.\nHere is a brief description of the scenario: 3000 CFM of 55F air is passing through a 24\"x24\", 24\" long device with three UVC bulbs installed in a cross flow orientation (equally spaced installation at 4\", 12\", 20\" heights). The air is traveling approximately 750ft/min. The bulbs are rated for 36W total and 11.2W UVC radiation at 100hr. Bulb length is 415mm.\nIf the distance from the lamp is assumed to be 4\", I can use the following equations to calculate the irradiance:\n$$E=\\frac{\\phi}{(2\\pi^2ld)} (2\\alpha+\\sin(2\\alpha))$$\nWhere $\\alpha = \\arctan \\frac{L}{2D}$, in radians -> $\\alpha =arctan \\frac{0.415m}{2*0.1016m}$ = 1.115 rad.\nUsing the irradiance formula, I calculate total irradiance E=5108µW/cm2.", "565" ], [ "(Multiplying a single bulb irradiance by 3, since there are three bulbs.)\nGoing back to 750fpm air velocity in the device, it takes 0.16 seconds for the air to pass through the 24\" device. Using the formula to calculate UV dose, $D_{UV}=It$ -> $D_{UV}=\\frac{817.22µW*s}{cm^2}$\nHere is where I run into a fundamental question that I have not had been able to find an answer for. Are those formulas assuming an exposure distance of 0.1016m from the lamp for the entire 0.16s? Obviously, the airstream will begin receiving UV dose as soon as it enters the device, albeit at a much lower level, with intensity peaking for the split second the air passes directly adjacent to the UVC bulbs.\nAre there any differential equations or integrals that can be established to sum the total UV dosage received by a particle across the entire device length? Would the radiation at the boundaries be so insignificant that it can be ignored? Additionally, I have ignored factors such as reflectivity, view factor, and wind chill as I have not been able to work them into my formulas yet. Any guidance on this would be appreciated!\nI appreciate any assistance on this problem! I am new to this site so forgive me if I posted anything incorrectly. Thank you", "565" ], [ "The simple answer is that it isn't resolving in both orthogonal directions equally well. The horizontal dimension is the binocular dimension, and from looking at your animation, it looks to have about ~3 times the resolution. The horizontal banding, I'm pretty sure is not ringing, and is in fact, representative of additional information.\nThis article does a nice job of explaining what is being seen, and it has a picture, both of a simulated depiction of Io from one of the two telescope mirrors, and the combined image. The thing you should notice from the above image is that the 8.4 m telescope picture is at the same resolution as the vertical axis of your animation.\nWhat is going on with the interferometer image?\nBy increasing the separation between telescopes, we increase the angular resolution. Just about everyone with a casual interest in astronomy will have learned that fact in this past week.\nBut the other thing you do, is introduce interference patterns. The two telescopes essentially act like a double slit experiment. In the vertical (non binocular) dimension, the diffraction can be treated like a single-slit experiment.", "758" ], [ "The angular intensity formula for a single slit is as follows: $$ I(\\theta) = I_0 sinc^2(\\frac{\\pi b sin(\\theta)}{\\lambda})$$ where $b$ is the diameter of each mirror, and $\\lambda$ is the wavelength of the light.\nThe horizontal (binocular) dimension acts as a double slit. The double slit formula is as follows: $$ I(\\theta) = I_0 cos^2(\\frac{\\pi d sin(\\theta)}{\\lambda})sinc^2(\\frac{\\pi b sin(\\theta)}{\\lambda})$$ where $d$ is the distance between the centres of the two telescopes.\nWhen you combine these two together, using the telescopes dimensions that you quotes (b=8.4, d=14.4), you come up with a pattern remarkably close to what you actually see from the telescope.\nOn the left, screencapture from above animation, on the right, the predicted double slit intensity.\nFringe removal\nIt seems that the animation you saw is based off unprocessed images from the LBT. Obviously, they have methods for removing the fringe bands. As to how, I have no idea. I found a paper that discusses interferometry in depth and they mention:\nWhat we therefore have is a series of fringes, whose amplitude is given by the Fourier transform of the source intensity distribution. In practice, steps are usually taken to get rid of the fringes using a phase rotation whose rate is known (as both B and s are known). This is done in optical interferometers by use of accurate delay lines to compensate for the path difference, and in radio interferometers by the insertion of electronic delays.\nBut I have no idea what that means. Perhaps some boffin from Physics.SE would be nice enough to answer.", "795" ], [ "The fact that $xdist = a/2$ is a condition not an assumption. That must be the case for some angle of the diffraction, and when that is the case you can 'pair' up a portion of the beam with another portion of the beam and you will get complete diffraction. When $xdist$ does not equal $a/2$, then you cannot do this 'pairing up' and some portion of the beam will not destructively interfere. This how is the variation in intensity is explained.\nEDIT:\nThink about it this way: The a/2 condition essentially says that if you were to divide the beam up into two halves with an equally arbitrary resolution of beams in each half, then the first beam of the top half (at 0 measuring from the top of the slit) would destructively interfere with the first beam of the second half (at a/2 measuring from the top of the slit). Every beam in the top half would find a beam corresponding in the bottom half that would lead to destructively interference.\nFor a/4 we have the same case: We can split the beam up into 4 quadrants each containing an arbitrary number of beams. Beam 1 from quadrant 1 would destructively interfere with beam 1 from quadrant 3, etc.", "441" ], [ "quadrant 1 and 3 destructively interfere. Same thing with quadrant 2 and 4, hence we also have a minimum here.\nFor a/5 it does not work: We split the beam up into 5 sections, with 4 of them we can make the same argumentation as before. That leaves us with 1 entire section that does not destructively interfere, no minimum.\nWhat is the difference between a/2 and a/4: Think about it geometrically first. If we use the diagram from the video you posted, the a/4 condition would mean that we have the distance of $xdist=\\lambda/2$ higher up and therefore the angle of the resulting beam would be angled higher. Turns out this is the condition for the second minimum. In fact, you will notice that this works with all multiples of 2, so let's make the algebraic:\n$xdist=\\frac{a}{2m}sin(\\theta)=\\lambda/2$\n$xdist=\\frac{a}{m}*sin(\\theta)=\\lambda$\n$xdist=asin(\\theta)=m\\lambda$ (where m is a non-zero positive integer)\nThis is the condition for all minima in the intensity pattern, i.e. places with complete destructive interference.\nSince you now understand the geometrical shift of the minimum along with a, you can make sense of this condition optically: If a phase shift of $\\lambda/2$ results in a destructive interference, then shifting that phase by a whole $\\lambda$ should again result in a destructive interference.", "441" ], [ "Obtaining photoelectron counts from known radiance\nI am attempting to make a rough estimate of the counts seen on a CCD spectrometer assuming I know the spectral radiance of a calibration source. I understand that this is not the same thing as radiometrically calibrating, but I want to make a calculation of the incident light and just come up with a rough estimate of how many photons strike a detector pixel. I know the quantum efficiency, the gain, and the diffraction efficiency, and I have dimensions for the pixel size if that is useful.\nFor my experimental setup, there is:\n1. the calibration source, and integrating sphere that emits light through an aperture. I know the dimensions of this.\n2. The spectrometer, with known slight size and field of view, apparent quantum efficiency at all wavelengths, as well as diffraction grating efficiency values.", "224" ], [ "There is no lens or fiber optics cable in my setup.\n3. A fixed distance between the spectrometer and radiance source, and I am making the assumption that the optical axes are aligned, and that the field of view of the spectrometer is completely encapsulated by the radiance source.\nFIRST - How can I make an estimate of the power incident on the spectrometer slit?\nI have some curve that provides radiance as a function of wavelength. It looks like this:\nKnowing the area of the slit, and the f/# or NA, I should be able to calculate the throughput (etendue ) of the spectrometer, correct? If T is throughput:\n$$ T = FA_{slit}\\ T = 2\\pi(1-cos(\\theta))wl\\ $$\nWhere $\\theta$ is the half angle of the slit field of view and $w$ and $l$ are the width and height of the spectrometer slit. If I multiply the radiance $L$ at some wavelength by this throughput, is that the power incident on the lens at a particular wavelength, or am I missing some geometric factor from the source? The units appear to work, so I am confused, $$P = [W/\\mu] = TL = [m^2 sr][W/m^2\\mu sr]$$. I believe this calculation assumes that the source is an 'extended' source.\nFrom here, I would apply instrument efficiency values (loss due to diffraction, mirror reflectance, quantum efficiency) and integrate the radiance over the width of a pixel (in wavelength units). This would give me the final power incident on the pixel which can be converted to an incident photon rate at a specific wavelength. Finally, applying the Gain of the A/D converter and multiplying by some integration time should yield a rough estimate of the number of photons recorded.\nSECOND - Knowing the instrument has some spectral resolution, but the pixels have some wavelength width, what is the best metric to integrate the radiance value over?\nAny suggestions or references you may be able to provide are greatly appreciated, thank you.", "402" ], [ "The first thing to note is that the formula given above for spherical mirrors is only a paraxial approximation, so one part of the mystery to unravel is where the approximation comes from.\nThe below discusses the 2D case but equally applies to 3d.\nOne way to get an approximate reflection O' is to create a flat planar mirror (represented by the line) that is perpendicular to the line OC and tangent to the circular mirror.\nThis approximation only works well when the point O is close to the mirror (or looked at another way, the circular mirror is very large).\nNow lets use the circular mirror as a circle of inversion. The plan here is to invert point O through the circular mirror, then reflect the inverted point, then undo the inversion. Notice that inverting a point twice gets back to where you started, so to undo an inversion just apply the inversion again. So we are going to invert, reflect, invert. Let's do it!\n1. Invert. Invert the point O through the circular mirror to point O'. Since we used the mirror as the circe of inversion, the mirror looks the same after inversion.\n1. Reflect.", "538" ], [ "Now we can use the same reflection approximation on the inverted point. Create a flat mirror and reflect the inverted point O' to O''. This is why the final point we come up with in the end will only be an approximation. Also notice that this inversion brings far away points close to the mirror, which is what is needed for the flat mirror approximation to be accurate.\n1. Invert back. We're still in the inverted world, so we now need to invert back to the real world. Invert the reflected point O'' to O'''.\nNow here is the really cool part. We can directly get to O''' from O by a single inversion through the circle that you describe above that has half the radius of the circular mirror!\nIn hindsight, that special circle with half the radius now makes some sense. If you invert that circle through the circular mirror, it becomes the flat plane mirror we used in the reflection approximation.\nSo hopefully this gives some intuition on why inversion through the half circle is a good approximation for reflection in the circular mirror when the point is close to the axis of the system.", "538" ], [ "are you familiar with <PERSON> diffraction? This is what is physically happening in your first picture as the light passes through the lens. The idea is that it is the new light field that is rigorously the 2D Fourier transform of the original one. However, in the end, you only measure intensity, i.e. the (square) amplitude.\nTherefore, the first measurement is the amplitude of the field, the second measurement is the amplitude of the Fourier transform of the field. Combining both you can extract information on the phase of the initial field. Just to make it clear, this does not correspond to the amplitude of the Fourier transform of the amplitude of the initial field as you seem to suggest in the second picture (it would not even give any relevant information as you noted yourself).\nHope this helps and please tell me if there are any mistakes.\n(Edit following <PERSON>' comment)\nI'll write explicitly the math behind my explication. Physically, your light is the EM field, a vector field, but in your case, you approximate it by a scalar field.", "780" ], [ "Since it is regulated by a real linear second order in time differential equation, just as for the harmonic oscillator, you condense the field and its derivative by a single complex field $U(x,y)$ (complex amplitude). The intensity is therefore (up to a multiplicative constant) $I(x,y) = |U(x,y)|^2$ and the phase $\\phi(x,y) = \\arg(U(x,y))$.\nPhysically, you only measure $I$ with a photodetector, but you want $U$, so $\\phi$. The trick is to transform $U$ and measure the new intensity in order to tease out information of $\\phi$. The Fraunhofer diffraction transforms $U$ to $\\mathcal F U$, the Fourier transform on a complex function. The second measurement is therefore of $|\\mathcal F U|^2$ which is indirectly related to $\\phi$. Heuristically, $U$ has $2$ real degrees of freedoms (per point), and you have two observables (per points), so you \"should\" be able to solve the equations to retrieve $U$. The Gerchberg-Saxton algorithm does this solve in a self-consistent loop.\nTo summarise, unlike image processing where the signals are real, in optics you are interested in complex signals.", "976" ], [ "Parabolic mirror\nEasy one - take a parabolic mirror (e.g. a typical satellite dish, the one you can find in your kitchen and paint it shiny), put some heat resistant holder in the focus and there you go.\nThe heat in the focus can easily reach upper hundreds of kelvins (which is more than enough even for a grill) for a typical small (~1m) parabolic dish and you can regulate the temperature very easily. As a bonus, there is no air to take the thermal energy away. Add some water into an airtight (and strong) packing, and you get your classical boiled food (if fried/grilled is not for you).\nIf you do not have a satellite dish among the regular equipment in your kitchen, a huge metal ladle might do, or a pot cover, and you would be able to watch the TV cook.\nSolar constant is about $1360\\, \\rm W\\cdot m^{-2} $ [1] - that is (by definition) at 1 AU and outside of atmosphere (It's a total irradiation, not just inside the visible spectrum, but the maximum is in the visible spectrum anyway and polished metal surface would reflect IR and UV easily).", "184" ], [ "Typical high-end mirror reflexivity can reach 90%, if we allow for non-visible spectrum and lower efficiency, we can get $500\\, \\rm W\\cdot m^{-2} $ easily (note that for low cost, less than perfect reflexive cookers in our atmosphere and realistic weather the efficiency is very low, [2] got only 15% maximum energy efficiency). A typical hot plate consumes maybe 1 kW of electricity and is perfectly adequate for cooking (and the efficiency is likely rather low as well). That means $2\\,\\rm m ^2$ is more than enough to replace a typical hot plate.\nNote that solar cooking is not uncommon, especially in developing countries without proper access to electricity. See [3] for a detailed description and fields testing of solar cooking in Indonesia.\nA typical pressure cooker operates at 2 atm - that means 1 atm overpressure, which is perfect for vacuum - keeping the same 1 atm overpressure will give exactly 1 atm pressure in the cooker, which means the conditions for cooking are exactly what we are used at.", "108" ] ]

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[ [ "Infinity Macro Pad Using Pi Pico\nIntroduction: Infinity Macro Pad Using Pi Pico\nHello DIY makers and coders.... Today I'm presenting my version of a custom Macropad with a Raspberry Pi Pico....\nI named this as \"Infinity Macropad 1.1\"....the project is based on the adafruit Circuit Python and runs HID functionality onboard....\nThis Macropad has\n* 20 individual tactile push buttons\n* 3 Rotary encoders\n* 1 Joystick\n* 1 Ws2812b Status RGB LED\n* Micro usb port\n* Inclined kickstand\nI want to make this project completely open source and share the whole setup with everyone free of cost... And for that purpose I need a good amount of help from people who are expert in circuit python programming... Pls help...\n. So without wasting anyone time..lets get started...\nStep 1: Understanding the Project and Chossing Right Microcontroller\nI wanted to make a macropad.. Which will have enough buttons for almost every programs and applications...\nFow which I decided to include 20 buttons, 3 rotary encoder and a joystick... (these encoders and joystick also have their own push buttons...)\nNow.. For making the project... The most powerful but compact microcontroller was the Raspberry Pi Pico...\nStep 2: The Parts We Are Gonna Need...\nFor making the project... We will need these parts. 👇\nComponents\n* 20 tactile switches...(12*12*12 switches)... I could have gone with cherry mx switches... But they are much pricer\n* 3 rotary encoder modules\n* 1 XY joystick module\n* 1 ws2812b led module\n* 20 4148 switching diodes\n* Raspberry Pi Pico\n* 10 * 10 cm zero pcb\n* 5 screws (3mm thick)\n* My 3d files or your own...\nTools\n* 3d printer\n* Fusion 360 or any other CAD software\n* PLA or favorite plastic roll\n* Spray paint (optional)\n* Some random tools\nStep 3: Preparation of the PCB...\nFirstly print my given template for the PCB board...\nCut it out and carefully allign with the board and stick it...\nAfter that using the guide lines... Cut the PCB board... I used my small coping saw... You can use whatever available...\nAfter the cutting is done.. Carefully place the switches in their places... And mark their location on the board...\nStep 4: Adding the Push Buttons...\nNow with the previously made markings... Place the switches in their corresponding places....\nMake sure the placements are perfect.. Otherwise it will be very hard to rectify it later...\nDouble check their placements...\nNow.. Bend 2 legs of the buttons and solder them on the board... You can solder all 4 legs.. But it will increase the confusion...\nStep 5: Placing the Matrix Diodes...\nWe are making a 4*5 button matrix...", "848" ], [ "And for that purpose... We also need some diodes...\nYou can use normal 4007 diodes... But everyone suggest to use 4148 switching diodes... So.. I'm going with them also...\nThe circuit would be look like this... 👇\nMake sure of the polarities of the diodes and the directions of them...\nIn my project.. I places them in two orders... But the wiring is same... It's just to make them tidy...\nUse thin copper wire.. I used 26 gauge wires.. And connected all the columns together..\nThen the drain of the switches to the diode...\nThe output of the diodes together in series... To form 5 individual rows...\nUse reference pictures for better understanding...\nStep 6: Drill the Mounting Holes...\nI did this step after the wiring is done.. Because I'm obviously a professional dumb...\nYou should do this step before the wiring....\nI dodged the bullet in first chance due to my prior thinking and because it's my design.. But it might be devastating for you...\nSo don't make my mistakes...\nI simply drilled the hole with 4 mm drill bit... And as always I messed up the holes... They were not in right spot..anf not perfect round... So I used my rotary tool with a tungsten carbide bit.. And fixed those issues...\nStep 7: Remove the Header Pins... and Paint the Case...\nIt's the time.. When you should remove the male headers from the rotary encoder modules and the joystick modules...\nAlso it's a good time to add wires to them... So you don't have to do them later...\nAfter the wiring is done... It's time for painting the macropad body...\nThough it's a optional step... You can directly print in your desired colour... But...", "996" ], [ "Retro Gramophone Style Bluetooth Speaker\nIntroduction: Retro Gramophone Style Bluetooth Speaker\nHello everyone.. It's. Infinity Workshop here again... Today I made a modern and mini Gramophone replica for this Retro Tech challenge... Which is actually a Bluetooth speaker... With dual 3w drivers.....\nFor this project, I used the parts which are very common in the DIY community... And made the whole project small enough to make it easy to store the final project in a less space-taking way...\nSo without wasting any more time... Let's get started...\nStep 1: Things We Are Gonna Need...\nAs my any other project... I wanted to keep this project simple and easy to make... As I stated before I keep the parts lists simple and used only super available parts... I could have used more expensive or advanced electronics parts... But that's not what I wanted for a build guide...\nSo here is the list of things we are gonna need for this project... 👇\n* 3d files( i used 3mf file format.... Not STL this time...But.. it's not possible to upload 3MF files here... so I'm uploading the STL files)\n* 3d printer( I used my Ender 3)\n* PLA filament... (colour doesn't matter as we are gonna paint the project anyway..)\n* 18650 Lion battery... + battery holder\n* Tp4056 battery protection and charging board\n* Pam8403 dual channel 3 watt class D audio amp\n* Bluetooth module (with inbuilt usb, micro sd, aux and Fm support)\n* 2 speakers... Mine was 4 ohm 5 watt speakers (diameter of 5 cm)\n* 6 pin dtdp switch\n* Silicon glue\n* Hot glue\n* Clear coat lacquer\n* Metallic paint\n* Some random items...\nStep 2: Download All the Files and Start Printing\nFirstly I want to say that from this project and onwards... I will be making and giving the 3MF files... And will discontinue using the STL formats...\nI have given all the 3d model files that I have made for this project... Download them all.. Then print them on your 3d printer according to your preference and settings...\nI usually used 10% infill for my parts and an average wall thickness of 5 lines...\nI printed every part in white PLA filament... Except for the horn part... As my white filament was almost finished and I didn't want to risk my print...", "485" ], [ "So I used the black filament... This will not make any problem as they will be painted anyways...\nThe overall printing cost and time may vary upon your conditions and settings...\nStep 3: Make a Test Fit\nAfter printing all the parts... It's a nice habit to make a test fit... As the parts are 3d printed... There might be some tolerance issues... So check all those... And if there is any fitting issue... Use something sharp to trim those parts...\nStep 4: Make the Whole Electronic Circuit Outside the Case\nNow wire everything according to the given electrical diagram...\nFirstly attach the charging module (tp4056) with the battery terminals...\nThen attach the 5-volt output from the module to the pam8403 and the Bluetooth module in series of a dtdp switch...\nThen take the output from the Bluetooth module and extend those lines to the input terminals of the pam8403 amplifier board...\nFinally, take the 2 outputs from the amplifier board and extend those wires to the speaker drivers... Pls, be careful about the polarity of the speakers... And don't short the ground terminals of those...\nStep 5: Test the Electronics\nIf the wiring is perfect... Then there will be no problem... And it will power up on the first try...\nTest the Bluetooth functionality and the others also...\nOne thing I want to mention here... There are some similar Bluetooth modules... They are all the same... Except some of them have a dedicated amplifier board Inbuilt... Don't use them... Otherwise, the wiring will not match with this project... Otherwise, they are OK...\nNow it's time for the next steps...\nStep 6: Attach the Power Button on the Top Part\nPlace the power button cover in its dedicated space and then put the switch in that...\nThen attach that... With two pieces of cardboard... And hot glue...\nIt's an easy part... And this can be done very easily...\nStep 7: Start Assembling the Electronics in the Case\nNow it's time to assemble the electronics in the box...\nWe need to pack everything in the box with hot glue and some precise positioning...\nStep 8: Attach the Speakers in Place\nAttach the speakers in their places... With some silicon glue... And some dabs of hot glue...\nThe silicon is necessary to make the box airlock.. Because we don't Want to make any air gap.. Which will reduce the sound quality..", "996" ], [ "Electronic Turntable With Perfectly Over Engineered Design\nIntroduction: Electronic Turntable With Perfectly Over Engineered Design\nHello everyone... Today I'm back with another very exiting project... I do make stuffs.... And i have a channel on Youtube ... So it's quite necessary for me to have few good video and picture shots for my videos... Especially those rotating shots...\nUntill now I had one small rotating device... That I made 2 years ago by salvaging parts from many items.... But that one.. Firstly not working properly anymore... And the major problem was... I needed a better alternative..... So I decided to make this new rotating platform for my upcoming projects....\nI know that this project is way overkill in some areas... And is not designed properly... But... It's my first time designing a product in 3d and then manufacturing everything... Also.. It's absolute first time with Arduino and Servo motors.....\nI learned basic arduino coding and done this project... I also know that my codes do seems wired... I will update my codes when I will get better alternatives....\nUntill then... The project is more than enough for my needs...\nAll the project files and the other descriptions about the used parts will be available down soon...\nAfter printing everything... I noticed some problems with tolerances... So I need to adjust the 3d CAD files also.... So pls be patient with me...\nSo without further a do.... Let's get started with the project....\nStep 1: Deciding the Basic Need of This Project\nThe basic need of this project is not building a war robot or a space rocket... So let's keep this simple... From my experience with my last Turntable... And the references from the internet...I learned that this Turntable should turn...in both direction... And a controllable speed will be better..\nNothing fancy is needed for this build...\nSo I proceed with these in mind.... Firstly I thought to use a normal dc motor.... Which I will attach with gears to the system...", "116" ], [ "And will use a so called pwm controller.... Or a voltage regulator for controlling the speed.... But then I came across with the fact that any dc motor would have a huge RPM to work with.. And in this scenario... That will be extra pain (though the Servo also gave me nothing but more pain... 😑)\nSo I Firstly ordered a MG995 servo motor... Which came few days later... And upon good inspection... I found that the Servo was broken already.... The gears weren't made of metal... And they have already worgn out..... So I returned them... And ordered MG996R this time.... But when it arrived... This servo was a 360 one..... For my application it was OK... But this also had no metal gears inside...\nThen as for the controlling the system.... I Firstly tried to use 555 timer Ic to creat a pwm signal..with variable output, to control the Servo... But as for my own surprise.. That doesn't worked either..... So luckily I had a arduino mini in my collection for an another project.. And i tried that.... Which worked with no surprise (I wasn't wanted to use an arduino for this build... But.....)\nThen I tinkered with the code... And finally came up with a horrible but working code...\nIn the mean time.. I printed the parts with my ender 3..in black and white pla filaments...\nStep 2: Things We Gonna Need...\nFor this project... We will need the following items...\n* 3d printer\n* PLA filament\n* Computer\n* Fusion 360 (if you want to make your own model) Or any other CAD software\n* 3d printing slicer (Cura/ Prusa)\n* Arduino mini/nano (if you are using Arduino Namo.. Then you will also need a programming breakout board)\n* MG995/Mg996r servo motor\n* Buck converter\n* 12 volt barrel connector(female)\n* 12 volt 2 amp power supply adaptor (1 amp will be workable)\n* 2 dpdt 6 pin Switches + 2 momentary push buttons\n* 3 Small 3mm LEDs\n* Resistors 1k * 3\n* Heatshrink tube\n* 47k potentiometer ( I had a dual gang one... So I used that because that have a metal Shaft... A normal plastic one will also work)\n* Wires\n* Soldering items\n* Drill machine\n* Other random tools\n** If you want to use my files..then pls give me some time.. I need to Finalize the files...\nHere are the files..If you want to have a look...\nStep 3: Preparation of the CAD Model\nFor this project, I used the version of the personal license of the famous CAD software - Fusion 360...", "485" ], [ "Backlit World Map From an Old PVC Pipe\nIntroduction: Backlit World Map From an Old PVC Pipe\nToday... I am presenting my one of the most favorite projects... I'm a student of Geography... And I do love the beauty of our very home planet... It's gorgeous Mountains, furious Oceans... The lands... And everything nice on this Earth... From my childhood the map of our world seems much fascinating to me.... Later I studied the process of forming these continents... Their unique features and much more.... So I wanted to have a miniature world map on my wall of room...\nHere in this project.. I just tried that thing in a simple approach... I had a relatively medium size PVC pipe in my stock... And I chose that to use for my project.... The truth is I started this project back in 2020...but couldn't finished due to some reason... I had my continents cut out and primed.. But for an unknown reason.. I left the project in my storage...\nNow back in 2022..I saw a contest going on PVC pipes... So I decided to finish my half done project now.. As soon as my exams were over... I started to collect materials... And started the project again.....\nSo here is my attempt to make a \"Hand made Backlit World Map\" ...\nStep 1: Things We Are Going to Need for This Project\nFor making this project as it is... We are going to need these followings things...\n* A good printed template of the world map(print at least 2 copies.. Otherwise there will be scaling issue later)\n* PVC pipe... Mine was 75mm in diameter... And almost 1.5 mm thick\n* Heat gun/Electric iron\n* Rotary tool.. With cutting disk\n* Clear acrylic sheet(1.5 /2 mm thickness)\n* 320 grit sand paper\n* Coping saw + fine teeth blade\n* Good quality glue\n* Plastic primer\n* Blue metallic paint\n* Paint brush\n* 12 volt Blue led lights\n* Buck convert\n* Electrical soldering iron and flux\n* Flexible wire\n* Enameled copper wire\n* 2 female DC barrel connector...", "74" ], [ "1 male connector\n* 12 volt adapter\n* 3d printer and my provided files\n* Some random tools\nPdf and 3d files 👇\nStep 2: Print the Template.... and Roughly Stick on the PVC Pipe\nSo... It's time to start the project...\nFor the first step... We have to print the world map template and roughly stick that on the PVC pipe.. Wo we can determine the exact position for cutting.. This will ensure the minimal wastage of material..\nAfter marking the spot... Remove the template\nStep 3: Cut Open the PVC Pipe With a Rotary Tool\nNow take a rotary tool with a cutting disk attached... And with the disk... Carefully cut along the line you just made with the template...\nDon't rush in this step... Power tools always need great caution ⚠...\nAfter successfully cutting the pipe.. It's time to use out Heat gun and gently flatten out pipe\nStep 4: Flatten the PVC Pipe\nNow using medium setting of the heat gun... Start heating the pipe... From the opposite side of the cut..\nAs soon as the plastic starts to heat up to a certain temperature the pipe will start to bend..\nUsing something flat.. Gently press on the pipe and try to flatten the pipe in a smooth sheet...\nYou can use whatever available.. Just don't burn yourself...\nIn this step... You can also use a baking street and a electric iron... To further flatten the sheet...\nAfter the sheet is flattened.. Place it under some flat and heavy object to lock it's shape... And let it cool for few hours...\nStep 5: Stick the Templates on the PVC Sheet..\nNow take the template pieces and stick those on the PVC sheet using some craft glue... Do make sure that the paper is adhered well...\nThen let the glue dry completely\nStep 6: Cut All Pieces\nTake a coping saw and a fine teeth blade... I used a fine jewellery saw and blade... And i will recommend that one... If you have a scroll saw.. Then use that instead...\nFirstly take the big sheet and cut it into kore manageable pieces.... Then using the same method.. Carefully cut out the individual pieces as neatly as possible...\nIn this step.. Pls be very much careful...with your saw... One wrong stroke is enough to cut your finger in pieces...\nStep 7: Cutting the Acrylic Back Plate...\nPlace the continents in their corresponding places on the acrylic sheet and make an rough outline of them...\nI used slightly smaller piece for my project because I wanted to use the acrylic sheet just for supporting the pieces and not to cover everything with a back plate...\nThen simply cut the pieces with the saw...\nSand the edges with files and sand papers for more clean look...", "819" ], [ "Easy Infinity Stones Made of Hot Glue\nIntroduction: Easy Infinity Stones Made of Hot Glue\nHello, Marvel fans... As we all know... The \"Infinity Stones\" are again in action after the 8th episode of the 'What If' series..... Ultra vision now posses all the infinity stones... And the multiverse is in great danger... So it's time for us to do something....\nIf you also want to join the intergalactic fight to save the multiverse.... You should also have a set of the Six Infinity Stones....\nI am The creator.... I am your guide through these vast new projects.... Follow me and dare to face the unknown, and ponder the process.... Of making the DIY Infinity Stones....\nStep 1: Things We Gonna Need...\nFor this very easy one-day project... We will need very basic tools and items... Just gather these followings\n* Hot Glue Gun (at least a 60 watt one is recommended)\n* Clear Hot Glue Stick (take at least 7 sticks)\n* White small LEDs... ( SE 186 1)....(you can also use the LEDs with 6 different colors.. If available)\n* Small slide switch /or any small switch\n* 6 piece 3-volt lithium battery (cr2032)\n* Battery holder(if available and if you want to use the stones in long term.. Then it's a must for replacing the batteries)\n* Soldering tools\n* Glass paint\n* Small rocks(I got mine from a local pet fish shop)\n* Heat gun... Or any small flame torch or lighter\n* Some extra tools and items... (whatever available)\nMy build video guide...\nStep 2: Making the First Layer\nTake some masking tape... And stick some on your work surface... It will help you to remove the pieces later easily...\nPour some hot glue on the surface... Let that cure...\nMake a total of 6 of these... With one in big size...\nAdd a second layer on the top and let them cool down also...\nStep 3: Painting the First Layer...\nAfter the pieces are cold... Remove them from the work surface..\nNow take the Glass paint and apply some on the pieces...\nFor the...\n* 'Mind stone' use Yellow paint...\n* 'Reality stone' use Orange paint...\n* 'Space stone' use Blue paint...\n* 'Power stone' use Violet paint...\n* 'Soul stone' use Red paint...\n* 'Time stone' use Green paint...\nIf you see the paint isn't well applied... Use 2 layers...\nStep 4: Attaching LED Light on the Battery\nFirstly bend the positive leg of the led... And soldier the negative end with the negative terminal of the battery...", "231" ], [ "If you are using the battery holder... Then solder with the corresponding metal piece...\nWhatever you do... Make sure to not overheat the battery... Otherwise, the power of the infinity stones will be destroyed 😬)\nStep 5: Adding the Switch...\nSimilarly.. Attach the other end (positive end) with one of the pre-bent legs of the switch with some extra wires...\nAlso if you are using the holder thingy... Then you have to replace the switch in a suitable place...\nThen soldier the other terminal with the positive terminal of the battery...\nAfter the connection is done... Make sure to test everything for any possible loose connection and other faults... And check if the light is turning on properly...\nStep 6: Sealing the Lights\nNow... Take some hot glue... And seal everything as shown in the picture... It's because we don't wanna damage any connections later...\nStep 7: Add Extra Layers of Glue on the Pieces...\nNow... Add some more layers of glue to the 6 pieces... In order to make them thicker.....and it's the preparation for the next step...\nAdd 3 thin layers or 2 thick layers of glue...\nLet those cure... And repeat the process for all the 6 pieces...\nStep 8: Heating the Glue and Placing the Rocks...\nNow.. It's an interesting step...\nHeat the top surface of the piece or stone with the heat gun or flame... Until it gets a soft stage... Don't overheat...\nNow carefully place the small rocks on the top surface with fingers or Tweezers...\nMake sure to add them neatly and don't press too hard...\nLet the piece cool properly... Don't rush... It's an important step...\nStep 9: Remove the Stones...\nWhen the glue is set again... Gently remove the stones... You will get a nice organic look on the pieces... If you aren't satisfied with the result... You may have another go... Stop when you are happy...\nRepeat the process for all the stones...\nStep 10: Attach the Top Piece With the Light Portion...\nNow... Apply some more glue under the pieces...", "259" ], [ "Easy Avengers Smartphone Stand\nIntroduction: Easy Avengers Smartphone Stand\nHello Instructables..... Today I'm back with a epic project which is not only very easy to make.. But also quite usefull accessories to have.... Any marvel fan will love to make this project for their own collection as well as daily basis usage....\nFull tutorial video on Youtube - Free video\nFor the \"back to basic\" contest I was thinking for something both easy and useful.. A project which anyone can do.... So that's why I created this project fro you all.... I basically made templates which you can just print and can start the project.... The only meterials I used in this project are 'Cardboard' & 'Craft Glue'....\nSo without wasting any more time... Let's start the process... \"DIY makers Assemble\" 😉😉😉...\nStep 1: Things We Gonna Need...\nI wanted to make this project as simple as anyone can do... I choose particular those items which are commonly available in our house...\nMaterials...\n* Cardboard (I used 2.5mm thick cardboard as I have that lying around)\n* Craft glue\n* Scissors ✂\n* Templates Go to google drive links (pls subscribe to my channel 🙂 for support my efforts)\n* Utility knife (with a new blade)\n* Hot Glue gun (optional)\n* Coping saw (optional also)\n* Some A4 sheets for the printing...\n* Colors...\n* Paper clips\n* My video guide-watch on Youtube\nBasically, these are all the items anyone will need for recreating this project... If anyone found difficulties in printing the files... He/she can even copy the design on paper by own hands.... (coz the templates are that much easy to copy)\nAlso if anyone wants to use a thicker cardboard sheet. (whichever you can found is always perfect for this project... Just don't take too thick a sheet...) they can easily alter the templates as their needs... To match the cardboard thickness...\nMy channel link ~ https://bit.ly/31UkH89\nStep 2: Preparing the Templates\nFor making the project...we Firstly need to print the templates... (If anyone get problem with the files.... Pls feel free to contact....). If printing is not possible... Then try to just copy the designs on a blank sheet of paper.... The templates are very easy to copy...\nPrint the templates on A4 white papers....", "733" ], [ "Check if your printer is printing in pepper 100% print ratio...if no then try to scale the print....\nStep 3: Transferring the Templates on Cardboard\nAfter the printing is done... Cut and paste the templates on a big or small pieces of cardboard....\nAs I previously said... Anyone can take any cardboard... But I will suggest a strong one... As that will give the stand more rigidity....\nGlue down the templates on the cardboard and let it dry for sometime....\nStep 4: Cutting the Pieces\nAfter the glue is dried and the templates are fixed on their places... It's time to cut the pieces out of the cardboard sheet....\nI used both my scissors, craft knife & a cheap coping saw.(coping saw is totally optional as the similar result can be easily get by other tools)...\nAs I sticked the templates in a compact order on the cardboard.... I got some trouble in cutting the pieces.... If someone wants.. They can easily spread the templates over a big piece of cardboard.... I just wanted to save a little bit of cardboard and thus I did that compact sticking for utilising the whole cardboard properly.....\nStep 5: Making the Pieces Perfect\nAfter all the pieces are cut off and they are ready for the next step... It's a good time to make the piece more perfect... I will suggest going slow while cutting the piece... As that will save a ton of time later...\nI used some old sandpaper for the rough surfaces... Anyone can do something similar...\nJust make sure that the pieces are as neet and clean as possible...\nStep 6: Making the Base\nAfter the pieces are done and all roughly finalized... It's time to start assembling the pieces...\nFirstly we will start from the base part...\nFor that purpose... We have to stick the large pieces with glue with each other... And have to use some paper clips for attaching the piece until the glue dries... The given photos can be used as a reference...\nStep 7: Making the Holder...\nAs we fixed the base pieces... It's time for gluing the smaller pieces together.. You can start by the holder part...\nStick the 3 small pieces together and clamp them with paper clips.....\nStep 8: Joining the Remaining Pieces\nAfter all the major pieces are joined and the glue dries. Add the 2 support pieces with the base... And keep continuing to glue pieces in their corresponding places...", "733" ], [ "DIY Miniature Solar System...\nIntroduction: DIY Miniature Solar System...\nToday in this instructables im going to make a miniature solar system using just household and some common craft items..i didn't used any fancy equipment or materials to just keep this project very easy to recreat even by small children...\nFirstly as for a solar system... As you all know that we have different sized planets... Some are really big like jupotar... And some are like very small like venues... And we have the sun.. Which is way larger than any other planet in our solar system in size comparison..... So it's almost impossible to make all the planets in their actual proportion.... With the sun in original proportion.... To solve that problem I have scaled every planet and the sun in manageable and quite OK sizes..... I will leave a chart which I made for this purpose....\nSo without wasting further time... Let's get into the project... 😄😄😄\nStep 1: Things We Gonna Need...\nFor this simple project I made a easy to follow process... And here are the items we are going to need...\n* Modeling clay /epoxy clay\n* Some regular powder\n* Cardboard\n* Acrylic paint\n* Some wooden sticks\n* Superglue\n* Black permanent marker (sharpy)\n* Craft glue\n* Some random stuffs\nAlso there are some items or tools, which are needed for this build but they are optional...\n* Glue gun and hot glue sticks\n* Drill bit (same sized of the wooden stick)\n* Drill machine (battery one is preferred)\n* Paint brush\n* Sculpting tools\n* Randon tools\nStep 2: Mixing Some Epoxy Clay\nFirstly take each amount of both A part and B part and mix until homogeneous...\nI will suggest to mix the clay for atleast 2 minutes...\nRemember one thing... If the clay isn't mixed well... It will cause problem in the hardening process... So make sure that the clay is mixed well.... And if you are using epoxy clay like me.. Then it will start getting warmer and will start to solidify....\nSo be quick...\nStep 3: Forming the Planets\nMake a long piece from that mixed epoxy clay.. And then simply take a part from it...\nStart rolling the clay and form a sphere..... The diameter should be 23 mm (roughly)... If you are using my dimensions..\nThis will be the sun.... At first the sphere will not be perfect...", "733" ], [ "Make a rough shape.. And then shape it later...\nAs like the sun... Now make the other 8 planets (I'm skipping Pluto as it's now a dwarf planet... And it's too tiny to make)\nHere are the diameters for the following planets\nSun - 23 mm\nMercury - 2.5 mm\nVenus - 6 mm\nEarth - 6.5 mm\nMars - 3.5 mm\nJupiter - 14 mm\nSaturn - 11.5 mm\nUranus - 8.5 mm\nNeptune - 8 mm\nStep 4: Let the Planets Set\nNow after forming the planets... Leave them for atleast 2 hours to let them harden..\nI will suggest you to give them a complete 6 hour rest... Depending on your clay type...\nIf you want.. You can occasionally roll them further to make them more round...\nStep 5: Start Preparing the Base\nTake a circle of cardboard with a radius of 7 cm...\nAnd matching cardboard stripes with a width of 3.5 cm\nNow... Using hot glue... Attach the outer ring around the circle... Use a 2nd piece of needed...\nStep 6: Drilling Into the Planets\nTake a drill bit of the same size of the wooden sticks..\nDrill in the spheres...\nDrill only halfway.... Dont drill through the planets....\nI will suggest you to leave Mercury and other small planets....\nAfter drilling take 9 equal sized small wooden sticks (1.5 cm each)\nUsing hot glue... Fix the sticks in the planet...\nAnd for the smaller planets.... Just simply stick the planets in the sticks using superglue\n. Let the glue dry for some time...\nStep 7: Prime the Planets\nAfter the planets are on their respective sticks....\nPrime the planets with white acrylic paint...\nUse 2 coats.... And dry them as well\nStep 8: Finish the Planet Colouring\nNow... It's the fun part...\nDownload some reference images of the solar system and the individual planets...\nTake your time and paint the planets as shown in the pictures.... I'm not perfect... But I tried...\nAlso in this step you have to do 2 more things...\n1. Add a outer ring around the Saturn.... Made with normal paper.. And paint that as well...\n2. Paint the sticks in black...", "636" ], [ "Concrete Calendar With Dedicated Phone Stand\nIntroduction: Concrete Calendar With Dedicated Phone Stand\nToday I'm going to show a simple process of making a Concrete manual calender 🗓 which you can also use as a stand for your beloved smartphone...\nThis project is basically aimed towards easy approach towards making things with common items....\nBasically for this project I designed everything in Fusion 360 for the first time... Yes.. It's my first project with a CAD software and a 3d printer.... (BTW... I have purchased a Ender 3 with the prize money I got from instructables 🤑... And it's my first use of that pronter in any project)....\nBut for the ease of others... I lastly made templates for paper mould.... So... No 3d printing required 😂...\nStep 1: Things We Gonna Need...\nFor this project... We will need only some basic tools...\n* 3d printer + pla filament / a paper printer (laser)\n* Celotape /any kind of plastic tape\n* Concrete (I used normal cement with some white cement)\n* Sanding paper\n* Files\n* Some random stuffs\n* Mountboard / hard cardboard sheets\n* Templates and other files\n* Sticker paper A4\nI'm giving all the 3d files and the paper version files...\n**The final files are now ready ... Go to google drive links\nStep 2: Start Making the Mould\nNow.... As I made 2 version of the templates I have to explain both the process here😬\n* For 3d printed version....\nIf you are using a 3d printer for printing the moulds for the project... Then pls note that the total print time will be well over 30 hours.... I didn't printed the bigger mould because as I wanted to keep this project simple for all my supporters... I planned to use paper templates....\nBut if you want to make printed mould... Then pls do use a good kind of mould release spray or wax.... I'm not an expert of 3d printed moulds... But from my experience... I can say that the process of taking out the casted parts from the mould... Is way harder than it looks...\nIn the files...there will be 1 for the holder...and 1 for the 4 cubes... Print them with your suitable settings....\n* For Paper version...\nIf you are making the mould with my paper method... Then print the 3 pages with a laser printer. And do make sure that the scaling is right... After the print....\nCit all the pieces and stick them on a sheet of cardboard...\nWhen that dries... Cut out them also and apply a whole layer of celotape or any other tape.... I used 2 inch craft tape...\nNow cut the templates according to their proper lines and form the shape... There are some line marks for the valley fold and those mountain folds.... Keep them right...\nAfter that...", "733" ], [ "Complete the mold with joining the pieces with tape... And after completing the mould... Use some silicon and seal the inner joints.... So the water will not leak to the cardboard in a large way...\nStep 3: Mixing the Concrete and Pouring\nFor the base... I used normal cement.. With a little amount of white cement.... I mixed the mixer thoroughly and the carefully poured in the mould....\nI left some extra in the mould for easy of adjustment.....\nFor taking out most of the bubbles... I used my random orbital sander... And with the help of its vibration power.. I easily got removed all the air bubbles from the cement mixture...\nNow for the smaller cubes... I used maximum white cement and some regular cement... And poured the cement in the 3d printed Small moulds.... Make sure to use some kind of mould release or wax... Otherwise................\nOnething I want to say... If you are making or using the paper mold...then make sure to add support materials like ridgit cardboard pieces on over the large flat faces...like I did with the bottom sides...otherwise your mold will also deform like mine...\nStep 4: Let the Cement Cure\nAfter pouring the cement.. In the moulds... It's time to level them and let the cement cure for at least 24 hours... And 48 hours for best results....\nIn the mean while... Make sure the cement is not dry.... Use water to keep the cement wet... Otherwise the curing will not be perfect....\nStep 5: Demolding.. Time\nAfter the cement is cured well... It's time to take the casting out....\nTake your time... Don't rush.... Now if you have used 3d printed enclosure or mould.. I don't know how much time it will take to come out..... But as for my paper mould... It was just a fact of cutting the tapes... And the mould came right off...\nAnd for the cubes...", "254" ] ]

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[ [ "HLTC Sandwich\nIntroduction: HLTC Sandwich\nThis HLTC Sandwich is really good because of its tasteful twist of toasted butter in a pan. This is a classic, yet unforgettable sandwich.\nStep 1: Ingredients & Supplies\nThe ingredients you will need are:\n- 2 slices bread (I am using whole wheat)\n- Ham (As much as you'd like)\n- 1 slice of American Cheese\n- 1 tbsp of butter - 1 tomato\n- Fresh ripped lettuce\n- Condiments (I an using mayo)\nSupplies:\n- 1 cutting board\n- 1 butter knife\n-1 kitchen knife\n- A pan\n- A plate\nStep 2: Working Space\nGather all of your supplies and ingredients into a working space in your kitchen (Preferably next to the stove) Make sure your pan is already set in the stove counter for the next step.\nStep 3: Heat Up\nNext, turn on your stove into Medium-Low. Let the pan heat up for 3-5 minutes.\nStep 4: Butter\nUsing your kitchen knife, cut out a small piece of butter to put in your pan.\nStep 5: Butter Up\nThen, using the piece of butter you just cut with your kitchen knife, add your ingredient into your hot pan and let it melt. As soon as it melts, spread it all around your pan just like the second picture.\nStep 6: Mayo\nIn this step, get one piece of bread and using your butter knife, spread as much mayo as you'd like onto one side of your bread. Save this bread for later.\nStep 7: The Other Bread\nGet your second piece of bread and lay one side of it onto the butter'ed pan.\nStep 8: Cheese\nNext, get your single slice of American Cheese (or as much as you'd like) and lay it over on top of the slice of bread you just put onto the butter'ed pan. It should look like the picture.\nStep 9: Toasting\nDo you remember the bread with mayo that you saved up for later? Well this is the moment to take it out and lay it down onto the pan next to your American-Cheese-Bread. Make sure the mayo side is looking up.\nLet these pieces of bread toast.\nStep 10: Ham\nAs your breads are toasting, this is the perfect time to get your ham and lay it over your American-Cheese-Bread.", "808" ], [ "You can put as much ham as you want; but your breads should start looking like this.\nLeave both of these breads toast as you do the next step. Keep a close eye out on your pan in case if you see the breads toast too much.\nStep 11: Slicing\nFor this part, you must get your cutting board, kitchen knife, and tomato. Prepare everything on top of a clear counter.\nStep 12: Chopping and Placing\nCut your tomato into slices just like the picture above; and start taking out your pieces of bread onto your cutting board. They should be slightly or fully toasted.\nStep 13: Getting Messy\nNow, on the bread the has the most ingredients, place your desired amount of tomatoes onto it. Make sure they are centered so they don't fall out your sandwich.\nStep 14: The Lettuce\nFor this step, you must now finally get your lettuce to place it on top of the tomatoes. As I have said before, use your desired amount of lettuce for this part.\nStep 15: Putting Everything Together\nFinally, for the part we have all been waiting for, get your Mayo-bread and place it on top of the lettuce. Make sure the toasted side is looking up.\nAnd... YOU ARE DONE!\nStep 16: SANDWICH\nThis is what your sandwich should look like!\nCONGRATS, you have accomplished making an HLTC sandwich :)", "808" ], [ "How to Make Avocado Toast\nIntroduction: How to Make Avocado Toast\nWant to make an easy and healthy breakfast with only a few steps? If so avocado toast will be the perfect meal for you!\nSupplies\nIngredients!\n1 Avocado\nOil\nSliced Bread\n1 egg\nEverything Bagel Seasoning (Optional)\nTools!\n1 plate\n1 cutting board\n1 spatula\n1 pan\n2 small bowls\n1 toaster\n1 fork\n1 knife\nStep 1: Gather Ingredients and Tools\nMake sure you have all of your ingredients and tools listed. Set them out so that they are all in one space and easily accessible.\nStep 2: Cut and Pit Avocado\nWith your cutting board and knife, safely cut your avocado in half. Next take out the pit in the middle, and throw it away.\nStep 3: Take Out Brown Spots\nAfter disposing of the pit, take out any brown spots in the avocado.\nStep 4: Prepare Avocado\nTo prepare your avocado, peel your avocado so that the black skin is no longer attached. Throw the black peel away. Next, place the leftover green avocado in a small bowl, and mash with a fork. Once mashed, set aside.\nStep 5: Prepare Pan\nTo prepare your pan, place pan on stove at medium heat.", "545" ], [ "Last, add a drizzle of olive oil into the pan. This will make the edges of the egg crispy while the yolk will be remain a liquid.\nStep 6: Toast Sliced Bread\nWhile the pan is heating up, place one or two pieces of sliced of bread into the toaster. Once toasted, set aside.\nStep 7: Cook Egg\nFirst crack your egg into a small bowl to insure that their will be no pieces of eggshell. Next, pour egg into heated pan. Last let your egg cook for around 2-3 minutes. Once cooked, remove pan off of heat.\nStep 8: Put Prepared Avocado on Toast\nUsing the prepared avocado spread your desired amount onto toast.\nStep 9: (Optional) Season Toast\nIf desired you can add Everything Bagel Seasoning. It adds more flavor overall.\nStep 10: Add Egg\nFinally, Add egg to the top of your avocado toast.\nStep 11: Eat and Enjoy!\nThis quick and easy breakfast meal will begin your day off with a happy start! Eat it while it's warm and enjoy.", "545" ], [ "A Chicken Sandwich With Challah Bread\nIntroduction: A Chicken Sandwich With Challah Bread\nIn this Instructable, I will be showing you how to make a chicken patty sandwich with Challah bread! Challah bread is pronounced as ha-luh bread. And our chicken patty is a normal chicken patty that we will make.\nSupplies\nFor the bread.\n* 4 cups of all purpose flour\n* 2 large eggs\n* 2 table spoons of active dry yeast\n* 2 cups of temperature room warm water\n* 1/4 cup of granulated sugar\n* 1 tea spoon of kosher salt\n* 1/4 cup of vegetable oil\nFor the chicken\n* 2 cups of flour\n* 3 eggs\n* 2 cups of bread crumbs\n* 1 chicken breast\nStep 1: Getting Started With the Bread\nAfter getting all of your ingredients out, pour the yeast into your water and sturr until you see it is dissolved. While waiting for it to dissolve, you can separate your eggs by mixing two together and and leaving the other one separated from its yolk.\nStep 2: Mix Your Ingredients Together\nPour in your flour, salt, and sugar and mix that together. after doing that, add your eggs and mix.\nStep 3: Add Your Yeast\nPour your yeast in and start mixing, when it starts to get difficult to mix by utensil, take it out and kneed it for a minute.\nStep 4: Having a Machine Mix It for You\nAfter kneading it, put it in your device that can make the dough of the bread. Check on it and see if you need to knead it yourself for a bit.\nStep 5: How the Dough Should Feel and Look Like\nYour dough should be all mixed together and feel tacky. If sticky, add 1 tea spoon of flour and check on it if it does feel sticky after you do that. If still sticky, keep adding flour until tacky.\nStep 6: Wrap It Up\nAfter making sure it is no longer sticky, but a tacky feeling, wrap the top of your bowl in a plastic wrap, this will make the dough rise. After wrapping it, put it in a warm spot of your house, this could be where the sun is shining in through the window. After finding a spot, leave it there for 2 hours so the dough could double in size.\nStep 7: After the Dough Has Risen\nAfter your dough has risen, place a piece of parchment paper with flour covering it, divide and roll your dough up into 6 long pieces, this will make your braiding process much easier.\nStep 8: Braiding\nIf you have ever braided hair before, this is just that. With 1 extra roll on each piece. Before starting to braid, make sure the dough is all mushed together at the very top.", "887" ], [ "After doing that, start over lapping each piece of dough in a braided style. After all of the dough is braided, put a clean kitchen towel over it and let it rise for 1 hour.\nStep 9: Egg Whites\nWhen your 1 hour is complete, grab your egg whites and start brushing it on with a cooking brush. Make sure to get in all the cracks too.\nStep 10: Oven Time!!\nPreheat your oven to 350 degrees F. Place your dough onto a cooking tray and put it in your oven when the oven is ready and heated. Set a timer for 35 minutes.\nStep 11: Making the Chicken\nI'm left handed so you can rearrange this however you want to. Take your chicken breast, dip it in the flour, make sure it is all coated with flour. Then dip the chicken into the eggs, make sure you can see no flour, the reason for the flour is to make sure the eggs stick. After that, dip it into your bread crumbs, again, make sure you do not see any egg, the reason for the eggs is so your bread crumbs stick. After doing all these steps, your chicken should look like picture above.\nStep 12: Fry It\nFry your chicken for 5-8 minutes.\nStep 13: Chicken Should Be Golden\nMake sure your chicken is a golden color when you take it out of your fryer.\nStep 14: Taking Out the Bread\nOnce your timer is up, the bread should look somewhat like the picture above. If not, place it back in the oven for 5-8 minutes at 350 degrees F.\nStep 15: Piecing It Together\nCut up your bread so you have different pieces and place your chicken tender on the bottom, then put the top piece of bread on and enjoy!\nStep 16: Enjoy Your Final Product!\nThank you so much for seeing this whole thing. It was really fun to make this recipe so I hope you do too.", "891" ], [ "The Denver Omelette Grilled Cheese\nIntroduction: The Denver Omelette Grilled Cheese\nToday We are going to make the most delicious grilled cheese you have ever had in your life, the Denver omelette grilled cheese.\nSupplies\n1 egg, 1/4 bell pepper, 1 slice of onion, salt, 1/3 cup grated cheese, 1 slice of ham, 2 pieces of bread, 2 pats of butter, one spoon-full of coconut oil, 1-2 skillets, kitchen knife, cutting board, spatula, lid for the skillet, stove, and a plate.\nStep 1: Chop Your Vegetables\nFirst, roughly chop your onion and bell pepper.\nStep 2: Get Your Skillet Ready\nNext, prepare your skillet by putting a spoon full of coconut oil into your pan at high heat and let it melt.\nStep 3: Put Your Vegetables in Your Pan\nNext, put your onion and bell pepper into your pan and change the heat from high to medium-high. this will let them saute.\nStep 4: Prepare Your Egg\nAs the vegetables are sauteing, crack one egg into a bowl and scramble it until you can see little bubbles form on top of the eggs. Then add a pinch of salt.\nStep 5: Add in Your Eggs\nOnce the onions start to become translucent, add in your eggs and turn the temperature to medium.", "808" ], [ "Cook your eggs to your preference.\nStep 6: Ham and Cheese\nWhile the eggs are cooking, chop up your slice of ham and mix it with your cheese.\nStep 7: Butter That Bread\nNext, butter one side of each slice of bread.\nStep 8: Eggs, Cheese, and Ham\nPut your ham and cheese onto an unbuttered side of your bread. Now add your egg mixture on top of your ham and cheese mixture. Place the other piece of bread on top of your egg, ham, and cheese buttered side up.\nStep 9: Put It in the Pan!\nHeat a different skillet on meduim-high heat and put your sandwich on your skillet buttered side down.\nStep 10: Let It Cook\nPut your lid on top of your skillet and let the sandwich cook until you see bubbles on the edges of your bottom piece of bread.\nStep 11: Flip That Baby!\nFlip your sandwich when ready using any method you like.\nStep 12: Finish It Up\nFlip the sandwich as many times as you see fit until both sides are a nice brown and the cheese inside is melted.\nStep 13: That's It!\nNow plate the sandwich and cut it in half. Now consume your grilled cheese to your life's content and do the dishes if you feel like it.", "808" ], [ "How to Make Meatballs.\nIntroduction: How to Make Meatballs.\nHello everyone, in this instructable, I will be showing you an easy way to make homemade delicious meatballs.\nStep 1: Gather the Ingredients\nThe first step is to gather the ingredients you will use throughout the whole process of making your meatballs. Some ingredient's quantity may vary depending on the amount of meatballs you want to make. In my case, I planned to make about 25 meatballs. The ingredients will be listed below.\n- 1/2 pound of ground beef\n- 1 egg\n- 1/2 teaspoon of black pepper\n- 4 garlic cloves\n- salt (the amount is your choice)\n- 1/2 teaspoon oregano\n- 1/2 teaspoon cumin\n- 1/2 cup bread crumbs (any type will work, mines were seasoned with cheese)\nOptional Ingredients\n-Tomatoes\nThe picture shows tomatoes as an optional ingredient. I used the tomatoes apart from the meatballs to make tomato sauce (which I will not be explaining how to do) The sauce is more of an optional addition to the meatballs.\nStep 2: Mixing Ingredients Part #1\nThe next step on the process is to mix the ingredients together. There is two parts to this Step and they are very messy and simple.\nThe First part will be to get a big sized bowl and place the following ingredients in it: Ground beef, peeper garlic, salt, oregano and cuminas you can see in the picture.Proceed to gently mix the ingredients with your hands until you see that everything is mixed properly.\nStep 3: Mixing Ingredients Part #2\nFor the second and final part of mixing the ingredients, you will want to add the remaining ingredients: the breadcrumbs and egg,as shown in the first picture. The egg is helpful so the meatballs don't fall apart when placed in the pan for cooking. Next, Continue to gently mix the ingredients until you are left with a big meatball as the one shown in the second picture.\nSpoilers: The next step is very important and the most fun of all.\nStep 4: Molding the Meatballs\nAfter mixing your ingredients with your hands, you want to give it shape. Use your hands to divide the meat into the desired size meatball trying to keep them as uniform in size as possible in order for them to cook the same.", "265" ], [ "Grab the desired amount in your hands toss it back and forth between your hands to remove any air pockets and then roll into a ball, as shown in the picture. This step was very fun to do!\nStep 5: Cooking the Meatballs\nGet your pan/pot ready. The pan/pot is were the meatballs are going to be cooked. Get the pan/pot you chose to use, pour half an inch of oil in the pan. Get the oil hot up to around medium heat, but do not let the oil boil. When you have shaped meatballs ready (as shown in the first picture), carefully place it on the pan/pot, and cook until you see that the meatballs smell and look cooked enough to take them out of the pan and ready to eat. Be careful and do not put more than 4 meatballs in the pan/ pot at the same time to prevent oil spills and burns.\nStep 6: Enjoy!\nYour delicious meatballs should be ready to eat and enjoy. Any additional ingredients like sauces or side dishes like salad could be added if you wish. Enjoy your meal!", "195" ], [ "BLCA(Bacon Lettuce Chicken Avocado)\nIntroduction: BLCA(Bacon Lettuce Chicken Avocado)\nThis is a incredible sandwich inspired by a BLT with a crossover with everything the average American loves. This sandwich contains bacon, lettuce, shredded chicken and avocado making it a BLCA. This sandwich will be finished with toasted bread from top to bottom and layered with a beautiful ranch cream sauce on top. This sandwich can be cold or hot to your desire. This is a sandwich that is for everyone and everything craving a good sandwich for breakfast, lunch and even dinner!\nSupplies\n1. 2 pieces of bread (preferably wheat bread)\n2. Shredded chicken or whole chicken(needs shredded)\n3. 2 pieces of whatever bacon you please\n4. A couple pinches of shredded lettuce\n5. 1 Avocado\n6. Ranch and mustard\nStep 1: Prep Chicken\nIf your cooking raw chicken follow the grill instructions: Depending on the thickness of your chicken breasts, roasting chicken at 450°F should require a cooking time of about 15-18 minutes (depending on the thickness/size of your chicken breasts) Or if you have it precooked go right on to making sure your chicken is shredded like shown. And at this point you should decide if you want a warm or cold sandwich. Heat up your chicken in the microwave for 30 seconds and for cold just keep it room temperature.\nStep 2: Prep Bread\nFor this step to toast your bread. The beautiful crunch biting into the sandwich with your amazing ingredients gives it a wonderful taste.\nStep 3: Prep Avocado\nFor this step all that needs to be done is to slice the avocado in half all the way around and to twist it open. Once you twist it open you will see the seed,(brown ball) put a knife into the seed and twist until its loose enough to take it out.", "405" ], [ "Once its out grab a spoon and scoop the avocado out of the skin. Then slice half the avocado into slices about a knifes width apart until the half is all into slices. You only need half of the avocado for this sandwich.\nStep 4: Prep Bacon\nOn this sandwich the bacon was pre-cooked and only heated for 10 seconds.\nInstructions for Oven\n1. Heat the oven to 450 degrees. Arrange the bacon in a single layer on 2 aluminum foil-lined rimmed baking sheets, or, for extra crispy bacon, arrange on 2 wire racks set over 2 foil-lined rimmed baking sheets.\n2. Bake until the bacon is browned and starts to ripple, or to desired doneness, 10 to 20 minutes. (Because the cook time depends on the thickness of the bacon and how you like it cooked, start checking doneness at the 10-minute mark.)\n3. Transfer the bacon to a paper towel-lined plate to drain.\nInstructions for Microwave\n1. Heat for 10 seconds\nStep 5: Prep Sauce\nAdd 5 tablespoons of Ranch, 5 tablespoons of Mustard to a little bowl, and mix these into one sauce.\nStep 6: Assemble Sandwich\nFirst take one your toasted pieces of bread and put that on the bottom. Next take your shredded chicken and layer it on the toasted bread until covered. Next layer your avocado slices over the chicken until covered. After that take your two pieces of bacon and break/bend them in half and lay them next to each other perpendicular to the sandwich. Next layer your shredded lettuce over the bacon until covered once again. Lastly cover the second piece of toasted bread with the special sauce and slap that baby on top.\nStep 7: Done\nYou made it! The sandwich is complete and your appetite is satisfied. Thank you for following along with me and making this awesome sandwich. Make sure to show some love and like it and leave me some comments you have!", "405" ], [ "Fluffy Omelet\nIntroduction: Fluffy Omelet\nGood afternoon, dear viewers and readers! In today's instruction, I will show you an unusual way to make a fluffy egg omelette. This omelette is so easy and quick to prepare and looks very impressive.\nSupplies\nTo prepare an omelette, we need the following ingredients:\n* Eggs 5 pcs.\n* Butter or sunflower oil.\n* Salt & pepper.\n* Cherry tomatoes.\n* Parsley.\n* Cucumber.\n* Dill.\nEssential Equipment:\n* Sharp Knife.\n* Frying Pan.\n* Dish.\n* Deep bottomed bowl.\n* Fork\nStep 1: Separate the Proteins From the Yolks.\nFirst, take the eggs and break the shell and separate the yolk from the protein. Put the yolk and protein in each separate bowl with a deep bottom. This process is repeated for each egg used.\nStep 2: Yolk Preparation\nNext, you need to whipping the yolk until smooth and add salt or pepper to taste. The yolk can be beaten with a fork or whisk.\nStep 3: Protein Preparation\nNext, take a bowl of prepared proteins, salt and pepper to taste. With a fork or a whisk, we begin to whipping the protein to the consistency of a stable foam. If you want to speed up the process of whipping the protein, use a mixer.\nReadiness can be checked by touching the surface lightly with a finger.", "863" ], [ "The protein should be elastic and not stick to the fingers.\nStep 4: Frying in a Pan\nHeat a frying pan with butter or vegetable oil over medium heat. Pour the yolks into the pan and evenly distribute them over the entire surface of the bottom.\nNext, you need to wait 20 - 30 seconds for the yolks to grab a little, then add whipped whites on top of the yolks. Carefully spread the proteins and align them with a spatula or spoon. Cover with a lid and leave at a power slightly below average for 8-10 minutes.\nStep 5: The Fluffy Omelet Is Ready\nCarefully place the finished omelet on a large plate. Cut the omelette into two large pieces and fold in half.\nStep 6: Cooking Result\nThe fluffy omelet is ready! Cut with a knife into three or four parts and serve. For a beautiful presentation of an omelette, you can decorate it with toast and vegetables. Such a lush, tender and unusual omelette invariably causes delight!\nEnjoy your meal and thank you all for watching and reading the article. Don’t forget to like it and subscribe!", "851" ], [ "Toasted Sandwich With Ham, Bacon, Cheese, and Egg\nIntroduction: Toasted Sandwich With Ham, Bacon, Cheese, and Egg\nIn fact, sandwich is not a common food that is served in my family's daily cooking. I love bread. I also love ham, cheese and bacon. Yet, I usually eat those separately. This time, I would like to combine all that I love above in one recipe. No more further ado, let's start cooking.\nSupplies\nIngredients:\nBread (4 slices)\nHam (2 slices)\nBacon (1 slice)\nSlice cheese (Kraft Singles American)- 1 slice\n1 egg\nButter\nStep 1: Scrambled Egg\nHeat the butter in a saucepan over medium heat until slightly shimmering. Crack an egg into the saucepan. Cook it until the white egg is completely cooked. Scramble the egg and put some black pepper and salt. Scramble it until all incorporated. Set aside.\nStep 2: Ham and Bacon\nPut ham on the saucepan. I used black forest ham from Hillshire Farm. I love this best. Do not add butter or oil in it because the ham will be too oily and too many fats in it. Cook the ham until brown.", "808" ], [ "Flip it with tongs. Cook the other side of ham until brown, too. Bring out the ham and place it on the plate. Set aside. Do the same with bacon. Cook the bacon until brown, but not too crispy. Set aside.\nStep 3: Preparing the Bread\nCut the edges of the bread. Spread one side of each slice of bread with 1 teaspoon of butter.\nStep 4: Cooking the Sandwich-1\nIn low heat, place the slice of buttered bread down in the saucepan. Top with ham, bacon, and scrambled egg.\nStep 5: Cooking the Sandwich-2\nPut the other slice of bread on the top. About 1-2 minutes, flip it by using tongs. Cook until the sandwich is golden brown.\nStep 6: Cooking the Sandwich-3\nPut another scramble egg, cheese, bacon, and ham on the top. Put the other slice of bread on the top.\nStep 7: Cooking the Sandwich-4\nRepeat the step until you get four slices of a bread stack.\nStep 8: Time to Dig In…..\nCut in half the sandwich. You are finished making the sandwich. Thank you for reading my Instructables. I hope you enjoy it. Happy making!\nFor more project idea, visit DIY4 Pro.", "808" ] ]

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[ [ "No, the tsunami was not caused by the idol which was thrown into sea in the 12th century. The butterfly effect here means everything is connected. That incident is not the cause of the tsunami. But the incident of throwing the idol has connection with the Tsunami occurring in 2004.\nButterfly effect is defined as:\nIn chaos theory, the butterfly effect is the sensitive dependence on initial conditions in which a small change in one state of a deterministic nonlinear system can result in large differences in a later state.\nWikipedia\nExplaining what is Butterfly effect in the movie is lengthy. For that we should know entire movie plot along with characters. Writing that here would make answer too much lengthy. But here's the Butterfly effect briefly.\nThe movie starts with Tsunami relief programmes and Bio-scientist <PERSON> speaking about butterfly effect and chaos effect. To explain what happened, he goes to 12th century and the history of the Perumal idol placed on dais. He explains the history of what happened in the past.\n<PERSON> played 10 different roles in the movie. Every character is not related in any way. But due to course of events, each character affects the events and different characters meet some or the other way.\nIn his journey to save the vial from terrorist groups, Dr.<PERSON> meets different people who are unrelated but their small actions knowingly or unknowingly drive the plot and lead to the day Tsunami occured.\nSurprisingly, some parts of the movie and the end of the movie also relate something to 12th century. It's shown that Tsunami has occurred to save people and decreased the affect of the vial by great margin. It also shown that God had helped different characters in different ways which took place in the course of Tsunami.\n* The Govindarajaswamy idol is submerged into the sea in 12th century. The processional deity (utsavar which is referred to as Perumal) plays a major role in the film and shown in the beginning of the film on the dais.\n* <PERSON>'s colleague <PERSON>'s wife <PERSON> is killed by <PERSON>.", "829" ], [ "Her death is avenged by her brother <PERSON>. He comes to India to kill <PERSON>. But <PERSON> kills himself by swallowing the vial. After the relief, he leaves a necklace as a remembrance of his sister.\n* The Muslim family and people gets saved from the Tsunami when they take shelter in the mosque.\n* <PERSON>, the pop singer gets cured of his throat cancer by a bullet fire by <PERSON>.\n* <PERSON>, social activist works for the eradication of sand mafia at a place where final rites of <PERSON> from twelfth century were done before throwing into the sea. <PERSON>'s wife is dead there and her sacred thread is also shown. After the Tsunami, <PERSON> thinks <PERSON> is her dead son and lament for him. In this way, the deep sorrow for her son accumulated in her heart is removed.\n* <PERSON>: The 43rd U. S. President is also a character in this film because the initiative was taken by the U.S government to create a weapon without knowing its potential. Later he visits India and congratulates Dr.<PERSON> for stopping the mass destruction.\n* After relief, <PERSON> argues that god had sent forth the tsunami to get rid of the weapon. <PERSON> responds by asking if god would destroy hundreds of lives to save millions. Then, they are later revealed to have been talking in front of the idol submerged in the 12th century. So, it came to the place where all it has started. Hence we are shown that everything is related - which is the concept of Butterfly effect.\nTo symbolize the butterfly effect, a butterfly flapping its wings and traveling from one place to others where characters are standing is shown in the end. But for better understanding of what is the butterfly effect and how the action of one character affects another (or mainly Dr.<PERSON> because he is the protagonist), we have to watch the film.", "829" ], [ "Spoilers ahead:\nRole:\n<PERSON> is named <PERSON> in the movie. His name means the King of birds.He is named because of his love towards birds. After an incident in his childhood, he decides to dedicate his life to birds and becomes an Ornithologist. His home is a habitat to hundreds of rare species of birds and sparrows. This dedication created love in birds towards him. He loved them equal to his own life. But after some turn of events and over usage of mobile phones and increased radiation, many birds started dying. So, he hated mobile phones.\nPowers:\nThe main source of power for <PERSON> is his Aura. Aura is a type of coloured radiation which enclose human body, a place or an object. It is a paranormal concept.", "295" ], [ "In simple words, it is the influence a person has over some region around them. This exist even after one's death. In the film, Dr.<PERSON> (<PERSON>) explains briefly How to reference material written by others what is aura and mentions that <PERSON> aura is spread over kilometers. Due to the immense love showered on them, the dead birds aura also added to the aura of <PERSON> and increased power day by day. As he hated cellular phones and towers causing radiations, he primarily targeted mobile phones and controlled them using his power. But controlling mobile phones isn't his only ability. He can also control other persons (without their consent) and objects. It's the same reason he could possess any human being (shown at the very end of the official trailer at 2:04) and turn high radiation from cell phone towers towards Foot ball (Soccer) stadium.\nThough Wikipedia mentions it's a new age belief, there are several mentions of this concept in different traditions and cultures with different names since ancient times. There are stories about <PERSON> where his presence made the people around him peaceful and non violent. Even predators and preys forgot the enmity between them and lived with harmony.\nHowever, the aura emitted by him was negative (causing damage and destruction) and was neutralized in the end.", "72" ], [ "Movie about a chef couple and a little girl\nI watched this movie an year ago. I don't remember the name or the actors in it.\nPlot details:\n* The movie revolves around a woman(female lead) who is the head chef in a restaurant. She is well known for her recipes. Her sister is dead in an accident and this chef takes up the responsibility of raising her 10 year old daughter. She becomes god mother to the girl. She misses her mother so much. She doesn't like living with her aunt. Female lead tries to impress her with new dishes but she doesn't talk much with her and eats nothing she cooks. She doesn't tell which food she likes.\n* Due to this pressure, she loses her touch and some customer complain about her dish and cooking. The restaurant owner appoints another famous chef(male lead) giving him equal authority over the kitchen.", "829" ], [ "She doesn't like it. She was jealous of him in the beginning and later on, they love each other. This guy becomes friends with the girl, little girl becomes active and reveals her interest in cooking and restaurant.\n* There's a scene where these three enjoy in their home. The setup is like a campfire. Girl learns how to make pancake or pizza(I'm not sure about it).\n* In the end, both the chefs resign their job and open a small restaurant.\nDetails which would help identify the movie:\n* Genre: Romantic comedy. (There wasn't much comedy in it. The film was a bit serious in the beginning).\n* I watched it an year ago. I watched it on TV but don't remember the channel. I don't think that was a new movie when I watched it.\n* The movie was not that old. It looked like it was released in mid or late 2000s. I think the movie is American but I don't recognize the nationality of actor and actress.\n* It was a live action movie.\n* The main actor might be an Italian or a French guy in the movie.\nI don't remember the names of the characters or the name of the actors in the film.", "829" ], [ "This movie is an adaptation of the novel of the same name, The Rum Diary. The novel has been the national best seller1 in the US.\nThe novel is based on the real life incidents of the author <PERSON>\nFrom the Wikipedia page of the novel,\n<PERSON> himself travelled from New York to San Juan in 1960 to write for an ill-fated sports newspaper on the island of Puerto Rico. <PERSON> had unsuccessfully applied to work at the larger English-language daily called The San Juan Star which novelist <PERSON> edited. While in Puerto Rico, <PERSON> befriended many of the writers at the Star, providing the context for The Rum Diary's fictional storyline.\nBy above paragraph, we know that it is based on his real life experience.\nNow, why is this novel named The rum diary?\nThis is an early novel set in the 1960's but was published very much later in 1998. This was discovered by <PERSON> from the original author <PERSON>'s manuscripts dated from 1960's. These two were good pals. This was the reason <PERSON> acted in Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas which is also an adaptation of <PERSON>'s work.\nThe Rum Diary is an early novel by American writer <PERSON>.", "570" ], [ "It was written in the early 1960s but was not published until 1998. The manuscript, begun in 1959, was discovered amongst <PERSON>'s papers by <PERSON>.\nThe word diary refers to the daily life experience and the incidents happened in a life of a person. In the novel, an author named <PERSON> is the narrator. He works for a major newspaper. The main plot of the novel is describing the lives of the americans staffed in the newspaper .\nSet in the late 1950s, the novel encompasses a tangled love-story involving jealousy, treachery and violent alcoholic lust among the Americans who staff the newspaper.\nThe word Rum is used to indicate the alcoholic and violent lives of the people involved in the movie. It also represents the role of alcohol in the movie. Alcohol has a significant role in the plot of the movie and is shown many times.\nThe basic story and the character names from the novel are not changed for the movie but the screenplay is written and directed by the director <PERSON>.\nThe movie is set in Carribean Island Puerto Rica.\nAccording to this Wikipedia article, rum has importance in Puerto Rico's economy.\nRum (ron in Spanish) production has been an important part of Puerto Rico's economy since the 16th century.\nThanks to BCdotWEB for the tip.", "514" ], [ "<PERSON>\nThis kind of film pisses me off the most. Like it's hard to tell if it was a good film or bad.\nI got fooled like 3 times in a single film. <PERSON> from the trailer I thought it will be one of that over-the-top commercial rom-com. Then after reviews, I decided to watch.\nFor the first 30-40 munites it was a subtle film to a point where I thought it was a Korean or Japanese slice of life. Then the characters become loud and cringe. I thought maybe it's a part of development. But now I am 10 minutes away from the ending and it's cringe, loud, over the top, melodramatic, weird, conservative and some of the directional choices were mildly problematic.\nI thought I will write an analysis review on this film because I could relate to the relationship between our male lead and his father.", "292" ], [ "It was kinda different and subtle portrayal than we see on television. It was not like rocket science but I always felt many Indian films lack this. They fill like they need to make the characters do one thing or another to hold the attention of the audience. But this film didn't do that, It let the character breathe and grow. If only the romance plot was as subtle as the first 40 munites.\nDespite my rant, I believe this film could have been a groundbreaking Indian rom-com since the genre is almost dead or just a pile of mediocre products. But as long as they try to \" feed conservative view \" it will ruin the taste, at least for me. The same thing happened with <PERSON>'s last film I can't remember the name and <PERSON> <PERSON> gives the same vibe so I am dropping that too.\n57/100", "292" ], [ "Indian soap dramas are different from the usual format of the English dramas/series. Indian soap dramas have 5/6 episodes per week running all year long, spanning across many years.\nIndia's first soap opera was Hum Log, which concluded with 154 episodes. Abhhishekam (Telugu) is the longest running serial in the history of Indian television with 3,100+ episodes as of December 2018 (still running). Yeh Rishta Kya Kehlata Hai is the longest running Hindi serial in the history of Indian television with 2,800+ episodes as of December 2018 (still running)\nContent creation for such long running dramas is always bound to run out due to the longevity of the series. Here is where we come to your question -\nWith Indian serials/dramas (<PERSON> falls in this category) that have a daily episode, the ending is not pre-decided and no definitive climax exists. Only the first few months or the first year the title and the story are the same. The story keeps prolonging and the initial plot/ name of the serial will stop meaning something after a year or so. I'm not bashing Indian serials, but its just how the pattern is.", "942" ], [ "For serials that bring out a daily episode , its difficult to hold on to the initial plot-line. And related to changing the story, unless the viewership drops, the story goes on into unrelated but cliched twists and turns and new plots.\nUnfortunately most of the serials start out with a different concept and fall into the only categories that allows for its survival after running out of content - evil family members, maybe evil mother-in-law, stealing family asserts and property, memory loss etc.\nThe first Indian soap opera, Hum Log, began as a family planning program, and although it quickly turned its focus to entertainment\nFor example there was this serial called 'Ishq ka rang safed' which initially was about love for a widowed woman and breaking rules, until:\n\"Ishq Ka Rang Safed (English: White Is The Color Of Love) is an Indian television drama.. The show portrays the story of a young widow, <PERSON>, and a rich boy, <PERSON>, who falls in love with her and goes against the orthodox views of society to marry her. The show was very much accepted by the viewers at an early slot.... But its viewership dropped after the change of the concept...\"\nSo No, \"story from start to end of this serial already decided before launching\"\nBoth Yes and No to \"changing the story in the mid as per the response of viewers\"\nFinally I'd like to say that this is not a Indian dramas-bashing answer. Indian dramas cater to people who would like to follow a show everyday without waiting for a week. But the content gets bad because there is only so much you can do. Kudos to anyone who can come up with great content for every single day year after year.", "942" ], [ "Why are some scenes of a movie shot in public places?\n<PERSON> pointed out in his/her answer (towards the end) about a <PERSON> spoiler that had been leaked by public. It is one of the underlying points that fuel the question. What is the need/requirement to shoot a scene in a public place? It involves dangers like:\n1. Getting a major plot point spoiled (A leaked photo from Endgame showing the characters in New York battle costumes).\n2. Causing disruptions in the day to day working of that public place (for example in Mission Impossible movies where a certain area is kept under lockdown for the scene to be shot and traffic has to be diverted, for example <PERSON> film shoot to cause traffic delays on Las Vegas Strip).\n3. If area is not locked down, then there is the chance of public crossing/interfering with the movie scenes in one way or other (like people getting in front of cameras).\n4. The dangers of keeping crew/celebrity out in the open (I raise this because I have seen celebrities [not all but the more famous ones] escorted by bodyguards when they are in public).\nThere are alternatives:\n1.", "862" ], [ "Shoot in a set/studio like Ramoji Film City (I mention this studio because I have been there and I was told that movies which require public places like a railway station had a counterpart there).\n2. Using CGI/green screen to create the environment: A scene from an Indian movie-Singham 2 involved a well known bridge known as the Bandra Worli Sea Link which has strict restrictions attached to it. However, the movie replicated the place nice enough using CGI.\nSo, if a scene is to be shot in say Paris, on a public road, then what makes it so important to shoot there and there itself considering above dangers and ignoring above alternatives. Why would the person, who has control over this particular scene, decide to go with a public place? To achieve realism?\nA studio might not have a place that would look like the road in Paris, but there is CGI. Modifications can be done with CGI after the scene is shot in a studio. After all, an entire planet (Titan in Avengers Infinity War) was made with CGI. Even if CGI is costly, then is it less efficient than having to talk with authorities of a public place, get permissions, make appropriate payments, deal with the risks and shoot in public?", "900" ], [ "No. First of all we have to see where does this claim come from. You would have probably read this in a TOI article (Sorry unable to post the link).\nIf you revisit that article, it seems more like a inspired by thing rather than being a based on thing.\nThe director of Roy claims to be a fan of <PERSON> and <PERSON> and yes the two directors did have a two year affair, but let's try to examine what are the parallels between the movie's story and actual story.\n1. <PERSON> has not been called or seen as a casanova, unlike the movie's character.\n2. <PERSON> and <PERSON> are not two filmmakers based in different countries, unlike the movie's plotline.\n3. <PERSON> and <PERSON> have not reunited after a split.", "918" ], [ "Well at least not until now :-)\nSo as you can see, apart from the fact that the story is about a love affair between two movie directors, there is nothing else.\nBut a mere linking of the story with some real life celebrities does spark an interest among the viewers, which is good for the business ;-)\nSo that's my take on this topic.\nEDIT : While <PERSON> answer is factual, I would like to discuss a few things. The sources cited by <PERSON> are correct, but aren't they the same sources which intrigued the OP into asking this question ? Yes, the director claims that the story is based on real life characters, actors read extensively about the personalities and tries to get the nuances right. But this is what the claim is. OP wants to know whether this claim is right or not and we can answer this after analyzing the movie's story and trying to draw parallels between movie's characters, plot lines and the actual stuff. And as I stated earlier, there are none other than the fact the movie's characters are two directors. <PERSON> and <PERSON> are not the only two directors who dated each other. It would be interesting to know what similarities are there.\nTo me this claim is as good as Fargo's (TV series) - \"Based on True story\".", "918" ] ]

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[ [ "I’m at a loss right now on potty training\nThe dog is a 8 month old Great Pyrenees names <PERSON>. I’ve had her almost a month a half and she uses the bathroom outside and doesn’t have my accidents for a week then after she was let out 2 hours earlier she crapped and peed on the floor. I have never had a dog have accidents like this before maybe once after we got it potty trained for my previous once’s. But this happens to frequently I’m not sure what the problem is.", "881" ], [ "I’ve been doing all the things I was told to reward her when she goes outside take her on a set schedule But it’s not working. She even has another dog there a 6 year old Great Dane that goes outside with her. The next step I see is having her in a kennel the entire night and when everyone leaves the house. I don’t want to it seems cruel to me not letting her have freedom in the house but I don’t know another solution. And taking her back to the shelter is worse then her being in a kennel I believe.", "822" ], [ "My 2 year old rescue isn’t house trained\nShe is a hyper, anxious terrier mix who also happens to poop only in the house. I’m worried she’s conditioned to do that now, and I made the mistake of saying “bad dog” and getting angry at her which supposedly is going to only perpetuate her fear of pooping in front of me (according to multiple sources i guess). I just want her to poop outside and not on the carpets inside.", "601" ], [ "I’m crate training her and she has her toy inside the crate. When we catch her pooping in the house she just is too fast for us to put her on a leash and take her outside. We don’t have a fenced in yard and she’s flight risk so we only take her out on a leash.", "601" ], [ "Crate Training\nAdvice on crate training a puppy. We have a 12 week old golden doodle who is home with one of us pretty much every single day all day. The golden in him has obviously made him very loyal and attached to us so this has made crate training unbelievably difficult. We put him in the periodically throughout the day and at night and it’s not getting better.", "833" ], [ "We cover the crate so it’s dark he has a snuggle puppy and cozy bed. He gets hot so we leave a tan on for him. But he will howl for an hour before ever calming down. He bites the crate and paws at it and at this point I’m worried he’s going to get hurt. We’re going on week 4 of this and I’m ready to give up.", "210" ], [ "Moving out\nI’m moving out of my parents home for the first time in the upcoming weeks. The problem is my little kitty <PERSON>. I went and got <PERSON> a little after COVID for the family with my mom at an animal shelter. Ever since we first met her she had such a loving and different personality that we had to take her home that day. She’s almost 2 now and is truly a one of a kind kitty. She’s never hissed at us unless in a really stressful situation nor does she do things maliciously.", "679" ], [ "She is very vocal and likes to do things like fetch and stuff. I like to think of her as half dog half cat. Anyways whenever I think about having to leave and not bring her with me I get very upset. My mom and older brother are also very attached to the cat and I don’t want to take her away from a place where she has more company and people. She is also very close to my mother so I know she would get the company she needs. I guess I’m asking for peoples personal experiences or if I should get another kitty etc etc. Thank you :))", "679" ], [ "Should I return her?\nI have an adult male small dog. Looks like a poodle, but smaller. He’s 6 years old, has a reserved personality, doesn’t like anyone disturbing his business. We had to take care of his brother for some time but my dog never accepted him.", "888" ], [ "He would get super angry, bark at him and would bite him. So we decided to not take care of the brother again. I thought this behavior was because both were males.\nThinking things would be different with a female dog, I brought a female husky puppy. Same thing is happening, and I am scared they don’t like each other ever, and one the husky is bigger they’ll fight a lot 🥲 she learned to bark and always barks at him when she gets mad..\nI don’t know if I should return her, my mom y telling me that’s the best hung to do right now …", "888" ], [ "Anxiety filled dog any tips appreciated\nI have a Pekignese male 9 years old who is bonded with another Pekignese female also 9.Both were with a family member who could no longer care for them so I have them now.\nThe boy cannot be away from the girl for a moment as he howls like a husky. We live on the fourth floor and I can hear him from the first.\nWith humans he cries a little bit if we leave without warning or if we come into the house and leave immediately after, but if we take the girl to the vet on her own all hell breaks loose.\nWe’re looking to calm his separation anxiety so any tips are greatly appreciated since majority of the tips are with anxiety relating to the owner but not another dog.\nAlso female dog is unphased when they’re separated she’s absolutely fine lol", "210" ], [ "Update: roommate bad owner\nHey all Here’s the update as promised. She told me to stop letting her outside because the neighbor doesn’t like it. I explained she needs to go out after being home for several hours to pee and for fresh air.\nI then broached the subject about the dogs needs for walks/playtime and she said her dogs not a lab, and made a bunch of excuses about taking her out on weekends blah blah blah but I’ve seen nothing like that since I’ve been here.", "822" ], [ "As she’s putting makeup on to go out again and leave for the night. Dogs left alone 15 hr/day. I’m considering moving out and finding a sublet. So sad for the dog.", "822" ], [ "Dogs just won’t go outside anymore??\nRecently my dogs( 3 of them, German Shepherds) just won’t go outside anymore. I’m not sure why. We live in the country, there’s plenty of space for them to roam. We have a doggy-door, there’s nothing stopping them from going.", "661" ], [ "I try to entice them outside, I get their favorite toys or treats, but they just won’t go. They’re not really my dogs, they much prefer my father but I do most of the care taking. Which means cleaning after them when they refuse to go outside. Is that it? Im not him so they don’t want to go outside with me? This wasn’t happening before. But if so, how do I get back on their good side?", "661" ] ]

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[ [ "You will hit one important limitation - language evolves.\nYou are adding concepts that didn't exist before, relative importance of words changes as world evolves, words get additional meaning because they are now found related to other concepts or because of slang etc etc.\nAssume you have a perfect language with whatever conditions you want. Each written letter is one sound and everything is encoded in minimum number of bits, or it is simple to link tons of words in a long word meaning the combination, or whatever other conditions you want - check other answers for many ideas. As perfect with all the conditions you want, at that particular point in time (introduction of the language). Now assume that language started at say 1850-ish (spring of nations in Europe).\nBack then, horses were pretty important - they work fields, transport people, people race them etc etc, so it is one of those crucial words you are surely basing tons of concepts on. Engine gets named \"black water mechanical horse\" because what else would it be - it replaces horses to transport people around and uses black water to run. In line with previous namings, processor gets named \"electrical horse brain\" because the word \"horse\" evolved to the point to mean \"something that does work for humans\". Come late 20th century and a mostly irrelevant animal is all over the place in gazillion of concepts, making all those concepts longer than needed and fairly confusing too.\nDo you feel it is still somewhat manageable? Note this is mere 100-200 years.", "634" ], [ "Jump back to first written languages and the evolved language would be more or less \"spam egg spam spam bacon spam\".\nNow, how do you tackle that? 1. Let language constantly evolve? Congrats, you are back to our current languages. 2. Keep your ancient language? But it is no longer \"perfect\" in any reasonable sense and would fare worse than any imperfect language that is allowed to evolve - it poorly links all the modern concepts together, it isn't compact etc etc. 3. Clean break every now and then? Language gets \"re-optimized\" every say 100 years. It gets increasingly less optimal towards the end of the time, and comes with a lot of confusion during transition period, but it is most likely the only viable solution.", "350" ], [ "People like sex (citation needed). Sex produces babies. The reason population growth slowed down is obviously an easy access to contraception (and to a lesser degree - abortion). There are two ways of causing baby boom - a) contraception stops working, b) people choose not to use it.\n1. No contraception available\nFor some reason contraception became less available. It can be religious, political, technological or any other. Religious fundamentalist politics is done to death in novels and tv these days, techno is more interesting.\n1a Technoloy\nWhen the oil runs out many technologies will become very expensive, almost everything we make is based on oil products, like plastics. That includes condoms, but also a lot of medicines. The problem with this story is that you have bigger problem than lack of condoms when you run out of oil.\n1b Biology\nEvolution decided to save us from going extinct and people developed severe allergic reaction to condoms or pills or both.", "1006" ], [ "Or even better, pills stop working. This will take longer than 50 years though, you would have to move your story 200 years or more in the future. If a gene of resistance to contraception appears it will obviously spread quite quickly, in couple of generations it will dominate the population because people without it have 0-1 child and people with it have 6-10.\n2. Contraception is dangerous\nMore interesting option is some disease that affects women on pill only. If taking a pill makes you likely to die you will have no option but to abstain from sex unless you are ready for children, most likely in a stable marriage.\n3. No need for contraception\nPeople try to prevent pregnancies, even in stable marriage, because children are very costly. They cost the mother a year or more of her career. They need a spare room, new clothes every few months, toys, school fees, etc. If your civilization somehow becomes post-scarcity many of these problems go away.\nConclusion\nThere will obviously always be women who just don't want children and do everything to prevent or terminate pregnancy, and if all else fails even resort to infanticide (\"fourth trimester abortion\"). But even if only 25% women have 5 children each, and another 50% have 3 each, that's already population explosion.", "998" ], [ "Fusion is by far the safest spaceship energy source with our current knowledge (yes, solar is safer as fusion happens far away, but you don't take the sun with you - if you do you have fusion drive again). It is safe mainly because it is such a pain to get the reaction going - so you won't have D+T fuse by themselves in a storage chamber.\n(note - I took some liberties in conversion to have nice numbers, but most numbers are fairly close to the correct ones)\nInside the reactor where the fun stuff happens (well, will hopefully happen eventually), you have something like 10g of matter (1) at very high temperature and pressure that is producing energy. D-T fusion gives about 100GWh/kg, so energy content of that little ball of plasma is 1GWh, which is about 1T of TNT. Sounds like a huge explosion, but when the plasma hits magnets, it won't do much fusion - it will simply blast a nice hole in the walls and magnets before expanding and cooling to something non-problematic. Magnets will pop too, but for ITER 10kT of magnets are planned to have only 15MWh of magnetic energy in them - only 15kg of TNT.\nThat's it, nothing meaningful as far as an explosion goes. Deuterium and tritium (or whatever else the ship is using) won't undergo further fusion without magnets working (and if they did work, it wouldn't blow up in the first place).", "435" ], [ "So the reaction stops as there is nothing to keep it going, D and T that were in storage scape through the new hole.\nHowever, there is a potential problem - the ship might have a lot of oxygen stored somewhere for those humanoids (or other lifeforms). And it might have a lot of fuel to travel far. So, you are in some danger of D/T to make ordinary chemical reaction (= burning, or possibly explosion). If we take say 500T of fuel (2) and enough oxygen, this has potential to release as much energy as the first nuclear bombs, ruins a lot of oxygen and makes a swimming pool of heavy water.\n(1): ITER will have 1g for few hundred MW. https://www.nature.com/articles/s41567-020-1023-5\nAn ITER plasma weighs about a gram, and our fuelling is about a gram per second.\n(2): This is comparable to oxygen+RP1 in Falcon 9. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Falcon_9#Pricing", "435" ], [ "Slower than light or faster than light?\nIf you invoke some kind of magical FTL, then the nuances of that FTL will determine everything, and they can be tweaked to produce any results that you desire.\nHowever, for relativistic slower-than-light interstellar planet that fits physics as we currently know it (e.g. engines spending limited fuel/energy to accelerate, and as much energy to decelerate), shipping lanes don't really make sense because:\n* You don't stop in the middle as a trip with an intermediate stop takes exactly twice as much fuel and significantly more time as a trip without a stop;\n* Interaction requires matching speed, not only position - if you're not willing to spend fuel to make an intercept, then you either fly past each other at ludicrous speed or get destroyed in a collision;\n* Direct routes make practical sense - on land, you may want to follow roads and go through major towns on the way, so route from A to B will have travelers passing from C to D through A and B; in space the optimal route is a straight line between C and D without detours.\n* the lane would be empty. Even if some ship would be destroyed en route, it would simply fly further with the same speed forever until it flies past (or into) the destination.\n* as everything moves relative to each other, two ships going from A to B at different times will take different routes. Assuming slower-than-light travel times (years between stars, days or more between planets), if a faster ship leaves after a slower one, it may reach the destination before the slower one but it will never \"meet\" it, since they travel on different paths unless it intentionally went on an intercept trajectory and not to the destination.\nRealistic physics don't really have unplanned encounters\nEngines that can get you from Earth to Jupiter in weeks or from Earth to another planet in less than millenia are visible from far, far away, and also give up your exact location, direction and speed - i.e., source and destination. Any maneuvers require firing the engine - want to start moving? Throw out lots of matter or energy into space.", "947" ], [ "Want to stop or steer? Same thing. Want to move with speeds that get you anywhere soon (as opposed to going from earth to a comet in 10 years) - throw out lots of energy once. I recall seeing calculations that if such a ship was moving between planets in Alpha Centauri, then we'd be able to track it with our current technology from Earth.\nSo no encounters can be really unplanned - a ship would know all the ships in the neighbourhood, and observe all their maneuvers long before they have any effect - i.e., if someone is changing their speed to meet with you, then you know that they have done that long before they actually meet with you. Before you launch, you'd have a database listing where exactly every ship currently is moving, even if they were launched decades ago. Furthermore, everyone else knows if any meetings occur, and where they go afterwards - if a ship gets intercepted, then everyone in multiple star systems know that and also know where both ships go afterwards.", "199" ], [ "It can change, it does change and it should change for that very reason. The fact that you ask this question simply says that it changes so slowly that you haven't noticed it in your lifetime.\nLets look at some common objections:\nWe tried engineered languages and they didn't get wide adoption.\nTrue, but they didn't work because you asked people to learn a whole new language instead of gradually changing their own.\nLanguages are inherently evolutionary systems.\nTrue and they will continue to be. I'm not saying we should prevent languages from mutating naturally. But evolutionary systems tend to jump from one local extrema to the next. Over time this leaves a lot of useless and unnecessary peculiarities. There is no harm in trimming those.\nThere is no central authority that defines a language.\nFalse. For languages that are official for only one country, there usually is a government body (the ministry/academy of education or equivalent) which describes what is proper grammar and vocabulary. It is the case even for some languages spoken in multiple countries. For example, Spanish has Real Academia Española.\nGranted, for historical and cultural reasons, English is a bit more of a special case. Still, you can say that there are multiple authorities on it. Think about it - you do have public school English textbooks. Someone has to define what should and shouldn't go there. So in a sense there are central authorities for British English, American English, Indian English and so on. Most people would also agree that the Oxford dictionary defines the English vocabulary. If you don't, I'm interested in how use to settle your scrabble disputes!\nMe red hole Okford diktiounery, yo. Dere no \"swag\" 'n stuf dere, yo!\nSure. There are slangs, jargon and dialects. As time passes the authority may or may not include them depending on usage and other factors. This doesn't mean that the canonical form of the language doesn't exist or that it isn't defined by said authority.\nKids are amazing at learning languages and once you are an adult, you no longer have problems with your native language. So it's a non-issue.\nKids are indeed outstanding considering that all we do to help them start is point at objects and make sounds over and over again. They still make a ton of (what we consider) silly mistakes both in speaking and writing.", "350" ], [ "Imagine if 10% of that learning potential was focused at something else as early as possible.\nAs for adults - just ask a person with degree in philology. Also misunderstandings happen all the time with roots in language.\nSo what are the actual issues preventing the constant change of languages?\nThe main problem is the cost of the change.\nNew textbooks have to be printed. The public has to be informed and adoption takes time. Old documents have to be revisited or rules to interpret their meaning has to be defined. There are other case specific costs. For example if we decide to add/remove/change a letter in the English alphabet it will be a tremendous challenge in the digital age. Every related standard and implementation, be it character tables, fonts, operational systems, programming languages, hardware like typewriters and keyboards and what not will have to change as well.\nThe cost of migration after a non-backwards compatible change is a well understood pain in software engineering. Different schools of thought exist on how much and how often is acceptable to introduce such changes depending on context. I could write pages on it, the gist of it is that we have well tried strategies to assess if it's worth doing and ways to mitigate said cost. And my ¢2 is that we should do it more often and in greater quantities than we do today for the natural languages I'm knowledgeable in.\nThe other problem is social.\nParadoxically, most people don't consider their language simply a communication tool. They see it as part of their identity. To change it is to strip pieces of their identity and to acknowledge that there was something wrong with it in the first place. Some go as far as to call the language sacred. Perfect. Immutable.\nAs this is worldbuilding SE, I propose that you simply change the culture around it.\nLets say that every day you cross the same intersection. As you are waiting for your turn as usual, you get an epiphany. What if instead of how it is now, the periodically of this traffic light is changed in this specific way? Both ways will have to wait less and there is no other consideration that you can think of. You go home in the evening and you remember what you thought earlier. You are filled with curiosity and excitement. There has to be a reason why it is as it is. Right? It haunts your mind until you finally decide to write an email/snail mail/whatever to the authorities. A month later you get a reply.", "634" ], [ "I think math has more to do with your question than physics. Passage of time does not disappear at infinitesimal periods. There is a difference between infinitesimal and zero.\nInfinite-small in practice means that no matter how much smaller you make it - some property will be preserved. Speed is preserved in arbitrary small valued periods of time, it also has a statistical tendency of becoming more precise (closer to the idealistic tangent one) as periods get smaller, because overall set of “time x position” choices is getting reduced on every step. Note: Although, it could depend on how those sets are defined - naive notion of precision may not always hold: error can grow for smaller periods if there were elements of a set of possible times and positions with existence conditioned on inclusion of other elements - sounds strange but actually quite common when you consider that measurement itself could be noisy/side-effectful (note: I’m still referring to classic physics here).\nExample of how not just speed as a property but also its value is preserved:\nLet’s say you take some period of time (let’s say a second) and start dividing it by two. No matter how many times you repeat it - you still will be able to get some non-zero number and continue.\nYou will not reach zero no matter how many finite steps you take.", "795" ], [ "You only reach zero at infinity, which I personally would say is physically impossible.\nMoreover, if you take a finite interval between two positions (let’s say 1 meter) and divide it by 2 for every step (simultaneously with time) - you can notice that no matter how many steps of making them both smaller you take, the instantaneous speed would still be 1 m/s.\nNote: the linear (inertial) example above is only an example of mathematical possibility: AFAIK physical methods of measuring speed do not allow such perfect circumstances (linear sync between position and time), so things can even get as complex as QM where speed has different semantics, but even classic theories rarely (or never?) talk about fully precise instant speed, as linear relationship between time and position is some artificial ideal we invented. Actual measurements mostly reject this assumption. IMO, except in computer programming where interpreting a program run as a physical experiment makes border between natural and artificial thin to the point where “physics = math” - but even digital computers are subject to noise so maybe not.\nIn any case, perfect linearity/inertia being an artificial construct is the practical reason why subdivisions of time periods are thought to improve precision (while natural noise actually interferes with this artificial tendency in reality) - so we could have idealized perfect inertial instant speed but only in a physically unapproachable limit, where things would look linear but really don’t :).\nWhen it comes to other possibilities of “time erasure”, ”mathematical” time can disappear, but speed would disappear consequently too\nTime does not have to be measured in seconds and position does not have to be measured in meters. Any relationship between two variables could be called speed in terms of “rate of change” like speed of pixel brightness on a still digital image along the eye tracking path.\nAny order can be seen as “time” so time can disappear as order disappears (informally there is no time without “more than” comparison). But speed looses meaning without at least some notion of time, purely by definition (as “rate of change of ordered events” so on) . So the answer is still no, canonically there is no speed without time.\nIn other words, time can be weird and appear non-linear comparing to intuitive notion of time (think of “Pulp Fiction”) but speed cannot exist without it.", "795" ], [ "If you are looking at this from a programming point of view, most of the software would be functions that make it so the golem doesn't get itself killed and can function in society. Go through an average day and think about how much information you process subconsciously. Just sticking to basic axioms and information consider the following:\n* Do not walk into the ditch.\n* Walk on the right side of the road.\n* Stop at red lights.\n* This animal is a pig.\n* The city map is laid out as follows.\n* Do not throw children out of your way while walking.\n* Ring doorbell and wait before entering.\n* The three laws of robotics.\nThe final list would be exhaustive and we still haven't given the golem the ability to do anything useful yet.\nYou could speed up golem creation by having some method to quickly dump the needed base information into the golem, but perhaps there isn't much room (memory or HD space equivalent) left for it to do anything terribly complicated. So tasks have to be simple, which by definition puts golems into the background of the story.\nOr maybe there is plenty of room for additional instructions, but that opens the door to golem sentience which almost always has negative consequences.\nSmaller, man sized golems could be incredibly useful, but still limited enough to keep them in the background. Examples follow:\nFarming with golems may require a lot of oversight. Okay golems, go plow the field.", "209" ], [ "Now pick out any rocks over 3\". Now plant 3 seeds every 12\". Now go back in the shed.\nA golem could serve food at a highly scripted formal dinner, but it would probably be a terrible cook as it couldn't tell the doneness of meat or whether the soup needed more salt. A golem waiter would also be useless at the local Applebee's as everyone wants their food prepared slightly differently and there is no way the golem could keep track of that.\nA golem could deliver a letter to a specific address, but it has no idea whether the person receiving the letter is Count <PERSON>, his butler, his brother, his arch enemy, or mischievous street urchin. Maybe all it can do is put it into a specially marked mail box and ring a bell indicating a letter has arrived.\nGolems in the army may be great at moving supplies, cutting down trees, or building simple structures. But they would be useless in combat as they are incapable of conceiving of any tactics beyond walk straight and punch the guys in the blue uniforms.\nFrom a narrative point of view, think of golems as magical pieces of farm equipment, machine tools, or roombas. I think you could put them everywhere and they'll still just stay in the background of the story.", "164" ], [ "You can't hide the engines\nIf we're assuming hard science no-magic-warp engines and ships that go places in years, not millenia, then the most visible part of any ship is going to be it's exhaust. In most natural planetary environments, there is nothing that could be confused with it. Some answers here are arguing that you might make a ship so \"quiet\" that can be confused with an asteroid - but that can be done only while not maneuvering at all.\nEven our current technology allows us to make an exhaustive list of any ships firing their engines in our closest star systems - I mean, there aren't any; but if someone used any engine capable of moving a sizeable ship (as per the requirement of some people inside, not a tiny probe; plus a capability for maneuver not the current practice of a single burn and airbrake because we don't have enough fuel to stop) in story-meaningful time - say, no more than a few months for interplanetary distances or less than a century for interstellar distances - then we already would know it.\nIf you're seen, we know that you're not natural\nWe can't do it yet, but there should be no issues for a spacefaring civilization to have a detailed list of every asteroid of significant size (say, ship-size) in their planetary systems, in the same manner that we currently track every baseball-sized piece of junk in earth orbit. Yes, there are many of them, that's why we have computers. We don't frequently get any new asteroids, and when we do, we can observe the collision that made it.", "199" ], [ "If a ship that's otherwise indistinguishable from an asteroid arrived in some soft-science way, say, from hyperspace - then we'd still could get an immediate and automated warning from passive sensors that hey, we have a new asteroid that wasn't there yesterday.\nOnce you are detected, you stay detected forever\nLet's assume that some pirate successfully robs a ship, gets some loot, starts running away and has the quietest most hidden ship possible. Well, we still know where exactly it is, and and rather accurately where it will be in next month or next year. The only thing that a perfectly stealthy ship can do is float in a straight line, and the moment it wants to adjust it's course, then once again everyone will know where exactly it is and where it's going to now.\nThis also means that \"You never know when space pirates are going to strike\" is not really true - every space station would have an exhaustive list of every ship that is currently on route \"nearby\" (for very, very large values of \"nearby\" - passive detection of engines would work at longer ranges than ships with those engines will fly in a lifetime) as well as their exact routes, since you don't need their cooperation to obtain that, you just need to look. If you don't want to fly past anyone, then you don't. If someone fires up their engines to intercept you, then you notice that well in advance, and everyone else does as well, and is able to track the other ship to wherever it goes to.", "500" ] ]

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[ [ "As far as the canon goes, I found four relevant examples, listed in 'in-universe' chronological order:\n1) In the Attack of the Clones movie, when Count <PERSON> has <PERSON> trapped on Geonosis, he tries to lure <PERSON> into helping him overthrow <PERSON>:\n<PERSON>: What if I told you that the Republic was now under the control of the Dark Lord of the Sith?\n<PERSON><PERSON><PERSON>: No, that's not possible. The Jedi would be aware of it.\n<PERSON>: The dark side of the Force has clouded their vision, my friend. Hundreds of senators are now under the influence of a Sith lord called <PERSON>.\n<PERSON>: I don't believe you.\n<PERSON>: The viceroy of the Trade Federation was once in league with this Darth Sidious but he was betrayed ten years ago by the dark lord. He came to me for help. He told me everything. You must join me, <PERSON>, and together we will destroy the Sith!\nThough there is some debate as to whether or not he was sincere in this request, see http://scifi.stackexchange.com/questions/74249/why-did-dooku-reveal-the-truth-to-obi-wan-on-geonosis\n2) <PERSON> ordering Count <PERSON> to kill his assassin/apprentice, <PERSON>, in TCW 3x12:\nSidious: Lord <PERSON>.\n<PERSON>: My master.\nS: There is a disturbance in the force.", "605" ], [ "Your assassin, she has become very powerful.\nD: Yes, my lord. She is quite important to me.\nS: Too important. I can sense her powers growing stronger. I would hate to think you are training your own sith apprentice to destroy me.\nD: Never. My allegiance is to you and you alone.\nS: Then you must prove it. Eliminate her.\nD: She's my most trusted ...\nS: I said eliminate her!\nD: As you wish, my lord.\n3) The part mentioned by ncalmbeblpaicr0011 in TCW 3x13, taken with a grain of salt considering that <PERSON> had just ordered <PERSON> to get rid of his previous apprentice, and there wasn't anything further mentioned in TCW about <PERSON> trying to overthrow <PERSON>.\n4) In the novelisation of Return of the Sith, by <PERSON>, you can find excerpts referenced in http://scifi.stackexchange.com/questions/5922/what-was-dookus-plan-for-the-battle-of-coruscant which discuss <PERSON>'s frame of mind towards <PERSON> at that point.", "605" ], [ "What led <PERSON> to conclude that <PERSON> was a Sith?\nThis question is similar to this one pertaining to <PERSON> assessment, but there are different circumstances that I think are noteworthy, and therefore justify a separate question. When <PERSON> explained his conclusion to <PERSON>, they had now seen what <PERSON> was capable of, as he had fought two Jedi, and successfully killed one of them (a very well-experienced Jedi Master).\nHowever, when <PERSON> first fought against <PERSON>, it was the first time that any Jedi had seen him (at least as far as what the films show; and none of those present during <PERSON> subsequent meeting with the Jedi Council had any prior knowledge of <PERSON>), and <PERSON> spent very little time fighting against him at that point. When <PERSON> escaped by boarding the <PERSON>'s ship, he had this exchange with <PERSON>:\n<PERSON> : What was it?\n<PERSON>-<PERSON> : I'm not sure... but he was well trained in the Jedi arts.", "605" ], [ "My guess is he was after the Queen...\nAnd later, when he relayed his experience and his conclusion to the Jedi Council:\n<PERSON><PERSON><PERSON> : ...my only conclusion can be that it was a Sith Lord.\n<PERSON>-<PERSON> : Impossible! The Sith have been extinct for a millennium.\n<PERSON> : I do not believe the Sith could have returned without us knowing.\nSo, considering the Council's skepticism of <PERSON>'s affiliation due to how long the Sith have been absent from the Jedi's affairs in the galaxy (and thought to have been long-extinct), what was it that led <PERSON> to believe that <PERSON> was a Sith Lord? I understand that it was probably easy to conclude that he wasn't a fallen Jedi, but why not some other type of Dark Jedi? The definition of Dark Jedi (at least according to Wookieepedia) is a Force-sensitive that adheres to the Dark Side, but isn't a Sith. In fact, if we rely on Legends, there were a few notable examples of Dark Jedi, such as <PERSON>, then there was <PERSON> during what became known as the Dark Jedi Conflict, and, most notably, there was <PERSON> former Padawan <PERSON>. And, on another note, <PERSON> was a Dathomirian Zabrak, not a Sith Pureblood.\nBased on what <PERSON> knew at the time, wouldn't it have been the more logical to conclude that Darth <PERSON> was actually a previously unknown Dark Jedi?\nNote: While I drew upon Legends information in forming my question, an answer from either Canon or Legends is acceptable (depending on what information is available). If possible, answers for each are appreciated.", "605" ], [ "How were <PERSON>, <PERSON>, and <PERSON> physically trapped by a ray shield?\nIn Revenge of the Sith, <PERSON>, <PERSON>, and <PERSON> are trapped by a ray shield on the Separatist ship the Invisible Hand:\nIt is specifically called it a \"ray shield\" by multiple characters:\n60 INT. BRIDGE-TRADE FEDERATION CRUISER\nBODYGUARD: General, we found the Jedi. They're in hallway 328.\nGENERAL GRIEVOUS: Activate ray shields.\n61 INT. HALLWAY-TRADE FEDERATION CRUISER\nThey run down the hallway. Suddenly, ray shields drop around them, putting them in an electronic box in the middle of the hallway.\n<PERSON>: Ray shields!\nHowever, ray shields are (usually) only capable of stopping energy like blaster bolts.", "605" ], [ "To physically block an object you need a particle shield.\nThe fact that ray shields do not block physical objects is supported by the (fully canon) Star Wars: The Clone Wars episode \"Landing at Point Rain\", in which <PERSON> was seeing running through a ray shield along with clone troopers1:\nThis shield is described as a ray shield in the episode description:\n...On Geonosis, Separatist leader <PERSON>, safe in his newly ray-shielded factories, creates thousands of terrible new weapons which march off the assembly line against the outnumbered clone army...\nRay shields' inability to block physical objects is also supported as a major plot point in A New Hope during the Battle of Yavin briefing:\n<PERSON>: The target area is only two meters wide. It's a small thermal exhaust port, right below the main port. The shaft leads directly to the reactor system. A precise hit will start a chain reaction which should destroy the station. Only a precise hit will set up a chain reaction. The shaft is ray-shielded, so you'll have to use proton torpedoes.\nThe Rebels needed to use proton torpedoes (as opposed to, say, the X-Wing's four blaster cannons) because proton torpedoes are physical objects:\nHence, the Death Star was only destroyed because its ray shielded thermal exhaust port was vulnerable to physical proton torpedoes.\nHow were <PERSON>, <PERSON>, and <PERSON> physically impeded by the Separatist ray shield when the plot in two other canon sources depended on ray shields' inability to block physical objects (including humans)?\nNote that this question is not tagged with [tag:star-wars-legends] -- I have provisionally accepted the Legends answer, but I am still looking for a canon answer.\n1 GIF taken from 15:44 of this Youtube video.", "963" ], [ "Is there any detail in the canon to suggest where The Liberty and the Tantive IV met to transmit the Death Star plans?\nPursuant to comments made by @tjd and <PERSON> in my answer to this question, I will reproduce the note that I made:\nThe points raised by @tjd and <PERSON>, in the comments to this answer, are solid. Why Leia was in the Tatoo system to begin with depends on a question I could not find an answer to; namely, at what point between Polis Massa/Darknell and Tatooine, did the Tantive IV (Leia's ship) attempt to transmit the now complete Death Star plans to the Liberty? The Death Star plans were not stolen all at once, but as described in Operation Skyhook, in a series of actions that started in AX-235 or Danuta (the canon is contradictory but seems to favor <PERSON>), then Toprawa. The Tantive IV then moved to Polis Massa and Darknell to receive the last parts of the plans, both of which are due west of Tatooine in the 'south' the of galaxy.\nI could not find in the canon where the Liberty and Tantive IV met to attempt to transfer the plans before being intercepted/interrupted by the Immortal.", "865" ], [ "From there the Tantive IV and a rebel detachment moved to the Tatoo sector but their general location was betrayed by U-3PO during the Battle of Tatooine. Their specific location in the system was given away when they tried to activate an uplink station, and then <PERSON> and his contingent moved in, leading to the capture of <PERSON>.\nThe attempted activation of the uplink station still supports that <PERSON> was again trying to transmit the plans (from an out-of-the-way location), rather than being in the Tatoo system to deliver them (which she wasn't, she was there to recruit <PERSON>). She would not have used the HoloNet as it was controlled by the Empire and she most likely could not have transmitted the plans over any large distance via hyperwave communication due its limitations, so it is reasonable that she would have dropped out of hyperspace in an out-of-the-way place to transmit the plans as securely as she could.\nIs there any evidence in the canon to suggest where the Liberty and the Tantive IV met to attempt this transmission?", "865" ], [ "Canon\nThe official Star Wars Databank has this to say:\nIf ever one needed an example of the irredeemable evil that was the Empire, turn to the shattered remains of Alderaan. An influential world, Alderaan was represented in the waning days of the Republic by such venerated politicians as <PERSON> and <PERSON>. A peaceful world, Alderaan was bereft of weaponry in an era of galactic strife. It was not without spirit, however. Alderaan was one of the earliest supporters of the Alliance to Restore the Republic, though its officials prudently kept all ties to the Rebellion secret.", "503" ], [ "Despite such discretion, the Empire knew it to be a haven of Rebel activity, and Grand Moff <PERSON> targeted the beautiful world for reprisal as soon as the Death Star was operational. The massive primary weapon of the battle station obliterated Alderaan, leaving only a lifeless asteroid field behind.\nWookieepedia (citing Star Wars Rebels – \"A Princess on Lothal\") says this:\nDuring this time, Alderaan became the Alliance's main source of munitions. The planet's crown princess and representative in the Imperial Senate, Princess <PERSON>, adoptive daughter of <PERSON> and <PERSON>, began using her diplomatic immunity as an Imperial senator to carry out Rebel missions in restricted Imperial systems.\nLegends\nIn Star Wars: Battlefront II, a 501st trooper says this:\n\"For all their talk of being a peaceful planet, Alderaan had been thumbing its nose at the Empire for years.\"\nThe Star Wars: Imperial Handbook: A Commander's Guide labels Alderaan as one of the Empire's priority targets for providing political and strategic aid to the Alliance.\nWookieepedia says this (although they didn't cite their source so take it with a grain of salt):\nImmediately after the formation of the Galactic Empire, Alderaan was wracked by anti-Imperial protests, mainly from alien refugees who were now forced to pay an exorbitant tax to return home. Alderaan eventually became a safe haven for rebellious elements who wished to fight the growing oppression of the Empire, which helped bring on the planet's very downfall.\nIncluded among the population was a group of Caamasi refugees depicted in the novel I, Jedi, for example, that fled to Alderaan after an Imperial bombardment destroyed their planet. They were most definitely Rebel sympathizers.\nConclusion - YES\nWhile it's hard to determine what percentage of the Alderaan people were pro-Rebellion, it had a reputation for being very sympathetic to the Alliance which should be sufficient for the question.\nIt's generally understood that a significant portion of the galaxy's population didn't like the Empire but any official stance against the regime would carry significant consequences and violent suppression. Therefore, Alderaan, being a peaceful planet, was officially aligned with the Empire but both its political figures and its people had a reputation of secretly being very influential supporters of the Rebellion.", "503" ], [ "It was inevitable, at the moment he met <PERSON>\n<PERSON>-<PERSON> was not going win that lightsaber duel.\n<PERSON>: When I left you, I but the learner; now I am the master.\n<PERSON><PERSON><PERSON>: Only a master of evil, <PERSON>.\n<PERSON>: Your powers are weak old man.\n<PERSON><PERSON><PERSON>: You can't win. If you strike me down, I shall be more powerful than you can possibly imagine.\n<PERSON> was the Chosen One, trained by a Sith Lord. He was incredibly powerful. <PERSON> doesn't disagree with <PERSON>; he just knows that he doesn't have to win the battle to win the war.\nIt was inevitable, at the moment they arrived at the Death Star\n<PERSON>: I sense something...a presence I haven't felt since...\n...\n<PERSON>: <PERSON> is here. The Force is with him.\n<PERSON>: If you're right, he must not be allowed to escape.\n<PERSON>: Escape is not his plan.", "605" ], [ "I must face him alone.\n<PERSON> separated himself from the others because he knew what would happen.\nIt was tactically necessary, at the moment he saw the Millennium Falcon\nIf <PERSON>-<PERSON> retreated to the ship with the most powerful Dark Jedi in the galaxy in tow, it would have all but doomed the mission.\nIf <PERSON>-<PERSON> stayed and resisted as long as possible, it would have meant <PERSON>'s death. Only once <PERSON>-<PERSON> died, did <PERSON> retreat to the ship.\n<PERSON>: Only a fully trained Jedi knight with the Force as his ally will conquer <PERSON> and his emperor.\nWithout <PERSON> (or <PERSON>...), there would be no hope of winning against the Empire. <PERSON> had dedicated his life to watching, safeguarding, and training <PERSON>; he wasn't about to renege.\nTrap, or not\nEven if <PERSON> somehow knew of the trap for the Rebels, it wouldn't have changed anything. The Jedi were the only real threat to <PERSON> and the Emperor. If <PERSON> escaped on the Falcon, <PERSON> may have decided to remove the larger threat, and save the Rebel base for later.\nIt was best\nAs good a training record as <PERSON>-wan had (or not), <PERSON> was going to be the better teacher. Whether <PERSON>-<PERSON> was alive or not, <PERSON> would have traveled to Dagobah and be taught by <PERSON>.\nBut as a \"powerful\" omnipresent Force ghost, <PERSON> could guide him wherever he was.", "605" ], [ "OK, having watched through the series again over the weekend, I do think that we can answer some of your question and at least address the rest.\nWere Clone Force 99 deliberately created?\nYes, <PERSON> deliberately developed the Bad Batch, presumably from Omega's genetic material.\nIt's where I was created. You all were here too. Your mutations were enhanced in this room. Experimental Unit 99 began right here.\n-- Omega, Bad Batch S1E15 \"Return to Kamino\"\nOn whose order were Clone Force 99 created?\nIt is suggested that <PERSON> gave the order (see below). Although I suppose it is possible that <PERSON> just went ahead and made these clones (or at least Omega) on her own in secret, and <PERSON> merely found out about (and approved) the project at a later date.\nMost in Tipoca City don't know about it.\n-- Omega, Bad Batch S1E15 \"Return to Kamino\nWe know that the Bad Batch were created in <PERSON> secret lab on Kamino. We also know they were tagged with the \"CT99\" number. This suggests that everyone else was supposed to believe that they were defective, again presumably for the purposes of secrecy.\nWhy were Clone Force 99 created?\nThis we don't know exactly. We know they wanted enhanced clones as part of some plan to ensure that their position as creators of a galaxy wide army continued, but we don't know the details of this plan. It's likely that at the time, the Bad Batch were created as a prototype for further enhanced clones that could be sold to the Republic.\nHowever, we know that after Order 66 and early in the rise of the Empire, the Kaminoans come to see the enhanced clone project as vital for their own interests.\nWe must ensure our clones remain essential...", "503" ], [ "If your experiment can yield a superior clone, it will secure our relationship with this Empire.\n-- <PERSON>, Bad Batch S1E03 \"Replacements\".\nThis same conversation includes <PERSON> pointing out that the original DNA samples they have from <PERSON> \"continue to degrade\", meaning that they are likely unsuitable for the Kaminoan's purpose, and that they would need the Bad Batch to continue their work. <PERSON> then states that,\nWe only need one. Our survival depends on it.\nConsidering the actions taken by <PERSON> in trying to recapture Omega, and only Omega, it's clear that Omega is the one that they need.\nThe Kaminoans don't create without a purpose. You all have one, so what's hers?\n-- Cut, Bad Batch S1E02 \"Cut and Run\"\nHow producing enhanced clones would save the Kaminoans at this point was not openly addressed, and with <PERSON> implied death during S1E14 \"War-Mantel\" we are left with only <PERSON> who would probably know the answer to that.\nFrom the discussions between <PERSON> and <PERSON> throughout the series, we could conclude that the Kaminoans felt enhanced clones would be unarguably superior to conscripted/enlisted soldiers, ensuring that Kaminoan clones remained the front-line troops for the Empire. During the creation of Clone Force 99 this is likely to be the Kaminoans' motivation.\nHowever, given that 80% of their enhanced clones had already defected by the time <PERSON> claims, \"Our survival depends on it,\" and <PERSON>'s increasing hostility towards continued cloning, it's obvious that the ability to create new enhanced clone soldiers is of no interest to the Empire.\n<PERSON> is not an idiot, so this might suggest that the actual reason for wanting to continue the project (and therefore their need for Omega) is something else. It is possible that this other, unknown reason might have been something the Kaminoans were aware of much earlier and was therefore a factor in the creation of the Bad Batch in the first place.\nOne minor, but pertinent tangent that should be addressed:\nI further analyzed Omega's genetic profile and discovered she has pure, first-generation DNA.\n...\nWhile our genetic structure was modified for growth acceleration and obedience, Omega is a pure genetic replication. -- Tech, Bad Batch S1E09 \"Bounty Lost\"\nWhy does it have to be Omega that they develop new enhanced clones from? <PERSON> was not the only bounty hunter in the universe. If Omega's DNA was completely unaltered and the existing enhanced clones had demonstrated unfavourable traits (such as a high rate of desertion), one wonders if it wouldn't be less hassle to start again with a new donor. Unless the knowledge they had of adjusting human DNA was highly specific to <PERSON>'s own genetic code.", "503" ], [ "During his confrontation with <PERSON> on Mustafar, <PERSON> was first maimed by lightsabre cuts. He lost both legs around the knees, and much of his left arm. He fell onto a slope of volcanic sand, and slid helplessly to the edge of a lava river. His body ignited due to heat radiated off that flow. His lungs were scorched by the hot gases he inhaled. [Revenge of the Sith novel; graphic novel; childrens' novel.]\nThis explains most (but not all) of Lord <PERSON>'s injuries. <PERSON> may have experienced mishaps between the films. He may have lost more flesh from his limbs before his final fight at Endor.", "605" ], [ "His spinal damage may have resulted from an accidental fall into a pit on Mimban [in Splinter of the Mind's Eye, though the book doesn't show how badly he was hurt]. Lord <PERSON> could have suffered extra injuries during his hunts for surviving Jedi and the Clone Wars campaigns that continued after the Empire was proclaimed.\nNonetheless, if the passages from Return of the Jedi are taken literally, the worst of <PERSON>'s injuries result from serious burns inflicted when he fell in a volcanic environment\nhttp://www.theforce.net/swtc/injuries.html#origin\nNote that the bulk of the content was written in the mid 1990s; well before the prequels came out.\n<PERSON>'s back, specifically his spine, was not whole.[9] <PERSON> at some time had suffered serious spinal injury in the upper neck. However, his injuries on <PERSON> did not affect the spine.[1] This forced <PERSON> to wear a thick electrode-studded collar that supported his helmet to safeguard the cybernetic devices that replaced his upper vertebrae.\nhttp://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Darth_Vader's_armor#Spine\nHowever, this newer source seems to corroborate a single serious injury to <PERSON>'s spine after the battle at Mustafar.\nIn the Splinter of the Mind's Eye novel, there was a battle between <PERSON> and <PERSON> at Mimban, but the summaries seem to conflict somewhat. However, after skimming my copy of the novel, the summary from the novel is correct.\nThey continue to battle and <PERSON>, his actions guided by the spirit of <PERSON> and his power augmented by the Kaiburr crystal, strikes <PERSON>'s sword arm, severing it. Undaunted, <PERSON> picks up his lightsaber with his remaining arm, and again pursues the exhausted <PERSON>. <PERSON>, also exhausted, is about to win, staggering as he approaches to make the killing blow, and he falls into a pit; <PERSON> senses that this does not kill <PERSON>.\nhttp://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Splinter_of_the_Mind's_Eye\nEvery movement of <PERSON> was guided by the spirit of <PERSON> and empowered by the crystal, so the young boy amazingly managed to hold <PERSON> off, even managing to sever the Dark Lord's mechanical arm. Shocked, <PERSON> tumbled down a deep pit, ending their duel. This was the first battle between <PERSON> and <PERSON>.\nhttp://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Mimban", "605" ] ]

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[ [ "As @AlexP calculated, the atmosphere needs to be replenished with Radon at 1.25e16 kg/day = 1.45e11 kg/s. Let's have a look at all the numbers.\nThe planet's surface area is around 5.11e14 m^2; for most quantities, it makes sense to consider them per square meter of surface area.\nAt 1.3 atm pressure, Radon gas has a volume of ~ 7.9e-2 m^3/kg, giving a replenishment rate of 1.15e10 m^3/s; each square meter needs to vent 22 milliliters of Radon gas per second.\nThe decay chain of Radon-222 involves many tasty heavy metals and eventually ends in Lead-206, which will accumulate at 1.34e11 kg/s, or 2.63e-4 kg/s per m^2; lead dust will sediment at 2.31e-8 m/s = 2 mm/day or 0.73 m/year.\nThe decay chain starts at U-238, which has a half-life time of 4.5 billion years. To produce 1.45e11 kg/s of Radon-222 would require 3.16e28 kg of U-238 -- 3.1e4 times the mass of your planet, so... U-238 cannot be the origin of the Radon.\nThe next-longest-lived element of the decay chain is U-234 with a half-life time of 245k years, you'd need 1.70e24 kg of that -- still heavier than the planet.\nThe next option is Thorium-230, with a half-life time of 75k years. We'd need just 5.14e23 kg of it, or 51 % of the mass of the planet. As a bonus, its density is around 1.17e4 kg/m^3, very close to the density of the planet. Of course, this means that the planet must be very young - at most 75k years old, and its radon production will greatly reduce in the next tens of thousands of years.\nFinally, decay heat. Over the entire decay chain from Th-230 to Pb-206, a fraction of 1.87e-4 of the mass is released as energy. Some of that will be carried away by neutrinos, but must will heat the planet (inside or in the atmosphere).\nThis is a mass-energy conversion rate of 2.81e7 kg/s or 2.52e24 W, or 0.66 % the power output of the sun.", "921" ], [ "Per area, it's 4.93e9 W/m^2. Earth provides around 8.2e-2 W/m^2.\nAssuming a perfect black body, this means the surface temperature of your planet is 1.72e4 K (T^4 ~ P/A). Of course, this means that the planet will be made entirely of plasma, and evaporate quickly, so unfortunately your idea looks impossible.\nHowever, Radon is a very heavy gas, heavy enough not to mix with the atmosphere too much. On Earth, it likes to accumulate in basements. Conceivably, if your planet has no wind for some reason, Radon might accumulate in the very lowest layers of the atmosphere, maybe just in the lowest 2 meters. If you limited yourself to that, you'd need much less radon, which would mean less heat, less accumulation of lead dust and fewer geothermal vents. Just scale all of the numbers down accordingly - except for temperature. Due to <PERSON>'s law, if you reduce the amount of radon 10000x, you can only reduce temperature 10x.\nIf you're happy with a still-extremely-deadly* 1 ppm of Radon instead of 8.3%, and just confined to the lowest 1/1000th (by mass) of the atmosphere, your planet will be somewhere around room temperature. You could even go for the longer-lived U-238 as source material. You should move the planet well away from the parent star to avoid any extra heating.\n*) 1 ppm of Radon at 1.3 atm has an activity of 1.94 Ci/L, a comfortable 4.9e11 times the EPA action limit.\nIf you really want a radioactive gas that makes up a single-digit percentage of the atmosphere, may I interest you in some other gasses, like H-3? Kr-81? Ar-39?\nI also hear that Unobtainium, a recently-discovered element in the Island of stability, has a density and half-life similar to that of U-238 while decaying directly into a gas that has properties that happen to be exactly right for your story.", "921" ], [ "A number of answers and comments have suggested that this would affect the axial tilt or orbit of Earth, so let's first work out the likely mass of the dragon to see how plausible those scenarios are.\nThe land area of Asia is $44.58 \\cdot 10^{12} m^2$. (1) The continental crust is $30-50 km$ thick.(2) Density of the crust ranges from $2.2$ to $2.9\\;g/cm^3$.(3) This suggests that Asia has a mass of about $2.94 \\cdot 10^{21} kg$ to $6.46 \\cdot 10^{21} kg$, which is between 1/1000 and 1/2000 of Earth's total mass. We'll take the larger number as a worst case scenario (although in practice, dragons are probably less dense than rock).\nNow let's have the dragon fly up to the edge of the atmosphere, 100 km up (4). The total mass of the Earth-Dragon system is, of course, unchanged, so we just need to see how much the center of mass moves. Taking the old center of mass as our zero point, the dragon is a point mass of $M_{earth}/1000$ at 100 km + the earth's radius, or 6,456 km. The earth is a point mass of $999 \\cdot M_{earth}/1000$ at -25km, since the Asia-shaped part we removed was all on one side.", "921" ], [ "Which gives us a center of mass 18.5 km away from where it used to be. The orbit won't care; even if the dragon flies away entirely, the orbital radius will change by less than 1 in 30 million; we can just add another leap day once every billion years or so and everything works out.\nThe center of mass of the remaining Earth has only moved by $0.1\\%$, but it's no longer on the axis of rotation, so there will be a small but measurable change in axial tilt. Of course, when dealing with this much mass, small-but-measurable probably still means enough torque to cause the worst earthquakes in human history, but I'm afraid we've reached the limit of what I can calculate exactly.\nThe more immediate problem is that if the crust flies away, we now have an area of exposed mantle the size of Asia. The closest event in history to that would be the eruption that formed the Siberian Traps. Those are 7 times smaller than the exposed area (and the actual area that erupted would be smaller still), and that event is one of the more likely causes of the Permian-Triassic mass extinction, which wiped out 95% of all life, but arguably cleared the way for the rise of the dinosaurs. It's somewhat appropriate that this time, it's the rise of a giant reptile that leads to the extinction event, instead of the other way around.", "921" ], [ "Thermodynamically No\n<PERSON><PERSON> gives a good answer about aerosol effects. Others observe that impacts add energy to the planet. I would simply like to look at the energy budget.\nThe sun dumps on the order of 173 petawatts on the earth, nonstop. Now, asteroids have a heat capacity on the order of $10^{18} - 10^{24} J/K$, depending on size. Note that a petawatt is $10^{15} J/s$. Also note that the sun dumps $10^{18} W$ on the planet every 5.8 s or so.\nNow, let's imagine we find an asteroid floating around interstellar space at a chilly 3 K (or colder or warmer...the exact number doesn't matter). Let's further suppose we can chuck it at the earth and land it without any significant addition of energy (we use an alien tractor beam to gently lower it to the surface). This asteroid will \"cool\" the earth by heating itself up. So...how much cooling should we expect?\nInstead of pretending that the earth is a lone ice box floating in space, and calculating what happens when we drop a large ice cube into it, I think it's more useful to simply ask: \"How quickly will the sun melt our ice cube?\"\nThe sun will contribute enough energy to warm the asteroid by 1 K every 6s or so, for a small asteroid. To raise the asteroid from 3 K to earth mean surface temperature of 288 K will take somewhat less than 1800 s, or about 30 minutes.", "912" ], [ "That's about how long an ice cube would last in a chilled beverage on a not particularly warm day.\nNow, that is roughly equivalent to turning off the sun for 30 minutes. That would have a noticeable effect on global weather, but I doubt it would remain noticeable even a few days after. Over the course of a year, this blip would amount to a solar energy reduction of 0.005%. Hardly enough to detect in the climate record.\nOf course, we picked the smallest asteroid for the initial calculation. If you go towards the large end, you can crank up all these numbers by a factor of a million, more or less. Ceres, for instance, would suck up about 5000% of the sun's annual energy sent to earth. That's 50 years of solar energy, and obviously a significant impact. Given that it's round, we can debate whether Ceres counts as an \"asteroid\" or not. Nysa is more \"asteroid-shaped\", but only has about 100x the heat capacity of our initial calculations. So, a solar dip of 0.5% over the course of a year might be enough to notice, but likely not enough to cause attributable long-term climate effects (given that the <PERSON> cycles produce larger variance).\nNote that if you start with a more typical asteroid temperature of about 200 K, you would reduce all the energy budget numbers to about 1/3 of their value (meaning, the smallest ice cube would melt in ~10 minutes).", "912" ], [ "Lasers.\nYou don't need to destroy the debris, just push it out of the way by the slightest amount. The vast majority of space junk is tracked, as others have mentioned, so you'll know what's a threat long before it actually hits. Hit the debris with a laser to alter it's path slightly and you can avoid collisions.\nBecause you can track most of the debris, you can even start this process well in advance. Debris will be speeding past very quickly, but you should be able to hit anything dangerous multiple times as it passes by with each orbit.\nYou can even use this system whenever it's not directly protecting the elevator to slowly reenter space debris as it passes. Just slow down the speed of whatever passes by and eventually stuff will start to fall out of orbit. It cleans up space and protects the elevator all at once!\nAs for the stuff that isn't tracked, you'll need to be able to detect it in advance, so some sort of sensing equipment will be necessary, but you'll need that already for laser targeting. Luckily the stuff that's not tracked is all very small stuff, so it will be easier to push out of the way, and you won't need as much advance notice.\nDelving deeper!\nLuckily for anyone who wants a thorough, scientific analysis of this option, I'm not highly original and laser reentry of space junk has been studied! One particular paper DOI: 10.1016/j.asr.2012.02.003 goes quite in-depth, and I'll cite some of its more important findings here.\nFirst, how big of a problem is space junk?\nThere are about $N_1 = 2,200$ large objects (diameter ≥ 100cm, mass of order 1 ton) in LEO, and $N_2 = 190k$ small objects (diameter ≥ 1cm).", "199" ], [ "The flux for the small ones in the peak density region is about $R_2 = 1.4E-4$ $m^{-2}year^{-1}$ ... [Applying these figures], the chance that a big object will impact a big object is once in $T_{11} = 134$ years, whereas the chance a small object will impact a big object is once in $T_{21} = 3$ years.\nOne variable seems to change names at some point in their calculations, so I'm not certain about how this translates to a stationary object, but it does give us a time scale.\nSo if we do nothing, we'll have a small strike every few years. But let's not do nothing! Let's use some lasers!\nFirst of all, how do lasers work to deorbit debris? Basically, the laser hits the surface and rapidly superheats the material, vaporizing it. This vapor is still in the path of the laser however, so it continues to be struck by the laser beam, where it superheats a bit more and becomes plasma. The plasma rapidly decompresses, pushing the object away, and essentially forming a small jet on the object's surface. After some time, adding more energy to the system is counterproductive so the authors of this paper suggest a pulsed laser, rather than a continuous one.\nThe authors assume a period of $\\tau = 5ns$ for the laser pulse, and using this number, find that they need to apply $53\\ kJ/m^2$ to the object to optimally accelerate an aluminum target.\nIn a practical case where $D_{eff} = 10m$, if $T = 80\\%$, $T_{eff} = 0.5$. In order to deliver $53 kJ/m^2$ to a target at $1000km$ range, the product $ WD_{eff}^2 $ must be at least $993 kJm^2$, laser pulse energy must be $ 7.3kJ$, and the mirror diameter $ D$ must be $13m$.\nThis means that the lasers don't even have to be in space! With pretty much current tech, you can deploy a system of them on the surface and deorbit from there!\nThe authors find that any object with mass less than 1kg can be reentered in a single pass. Larger objects (their example gave mass of 1-ton) would take several years to reenter, but, if you recall the frequency of interactions between large objects, the chance of a catastrophic collision is very small, and we can very easily nudge these objects out of the way in a single pass.", "580" ], [ "You'll be scooping up interstellar medium at significant kinetic energies.\nThere's two problems: The atoms that hit you will actually accelerate you away from your position (pressure measured in Pa), and of course they'll impose a radiation hazard as you absorb them (radiation dose measured in Gy).\nLet's do some math. Let's assume an interstellar medium consisting of one hydrogen atom per cubic centimeter.\nThis gives a density ρ = m/V = 1.7e-21 kg/m³.\nYou'll scoop up the ISM at dm/dt/A = ρ·v = 1.5e-13 kg/s/m². Note that this depends on the area of your body that is facing into the stream; you might want to go head-first or feet-first depending on if you're still planning to procreate.\nThe pressure that the ISM exerts on you is p = F/A = dm/dt/A · v = 1.3e-5 Pa.\nThis is pretty negligible, you won't even feel it. At an exposed area of 1m² and a mass including the EVA suit of 100kg, the acceleration is just 1.3e-7m/s², enough to displace you by less than a meter in one hour.\nThe radiation hazard is another thing, though. The kinetic energy at relativistic speeds is calculated by multiplying the relativistic gamma factor, minus one, with mc². The relativistic gamma factor in your case is 1.04828.\nThe kinetic energy of the mass stream is calculated by P/A = (relativistic gamma factor - 1)·dm/dt·c^2/A = 653W/m². This is half the power of solar radiation as felt on earth. Which is a lot.\nThe radiation dose is calculated as energy absorbed per body weight: Assuming a body weight of 80kg and an exposed area of 0.5m^2, D/t = P/m = (P/A)·A/m = 4.08Gy/s.", "921" ], [ "This handy table tells you what will happen to your spacewalker.\n* They'll pretty much immediately feel the extra heating\n* After 2 seconds, their biology is damaged beyond repair with a life expectancy of 2-4 weeks, and \"rapid incapacitation\" sets on\n* After 7 seconds, they'll experience \"Seizures, tremor, ataxia and lethargy\", and their life expectancy has dropped to 1-2 days\nSo... without some sort of shield there's no way a human could do a spacewalk.\nhowever, these levels of radiation will not only affect spacewalkers, but everybody on the ship, so the ship will likely have massive leaden (or similar) shields at its front. As long as your space walkers would be in the \"shadow\" of the frontal shield, they have nothing to worry about... apart from accidentally drifting into the death zone...\nOf course the radiation levels outside the ship would still be elevated because\n* the ship's hull provides some additional shielding\n* some particles can be scattered around the edges of the shield which would lead to a gradual increase in levels the closer you get to the \"edge\" of the shielded zone, especially near the rear end of the ship.\nbut if the inside of the ship is shielded well enough to allow humans to live a normal live and life, they should be able to survive outside for a few hours without problems.\nP.S. I think the leaden shield is actually doable in practice. I'm not sure how to calculate its thickness, but it will be probably ~50 times the mean free path of 0.3c hydrogen atoms in lead, whatever that works out to. You could make the shield out of Unobtanium which I hear has excellent properties in that respect. Unobtainium shields may even be light enough to be worked into the fabric of the EVA suit... but note that you'll still need to cool them, and since your visor can't be made of it, don't you ever stare into the direction of oncoming death.", "947" ], [ "<PERSON> probably only needs one eye if he has enough time and can make sufficiently accurate spectral measurements.\nFirst, note that <PERSON> was watching on a sunny day; we'll assume that between incident intensity and albedo that object were reflecting on the order of $ 100 \\mathrm{W}/\\mathrm{m}^2$ light, which is about $10^{22}$ photons per second. At 24 kilometers, that's down to about $10^8$ photons per $\\mathrm{cm}^2$.\nWe're not sure how big <PERSON>' eyes are, as the books don't say, but we can assume they're not freakishly huge so are on the order of 1 cm in diameter, which gives him about $6 \\cdot 10^-5$ radians angular resolution, or roughly $1.5 \\mathrm{m}$. As already described, this ought to be adequate to count the number of riders.\nNow there are two factors which are hugely important. First, the riders are moving. Thus, by looking at temporal correlations in spectra, Legolas can in principle deduce what the spectra of riders are distinct from the background.", "840" ], [ "We can also assume that he's familiar with the spectra of various common objects (leather, hair of various colors, and so on). He thus can make a sub-resolution mixture model where he hypothesizes $n$ objects of distinct spectra and tries to find the size/luminance of each. This is probably the trickiest part, as the spectra of many items tend to be rather broad, giving substantial overlap in spectra. Let's suppose that the object he's looking for has only a 10% difference in spectral profile from the others (in aggregate). Then with a one-second integration time he'd have photon shot noise on the order of $10^4$ photons but a signal of about $A\\cdot10^7$ photons where $A$ is the fractional luminance of the target object within the diffraction-limited field of view.\nSince super-resolution microscopy can resolve items approximately proportional to the SNR (simplest example: if a source is all in one pixel, all in another, or a fraction in between, you basically just have to compare intensity in those two pixels), this means that <PERSON> could potentially find a bright object to within on the order of $1.5 \\mathrm{mm}$. If he uses the gleam off a helmet and stirrup, for instance, he could measure height adequately well and pick out details like \"yellow is their hair\".", "675" ], [ "Scale of the disaster: anectodical\nSad. I love a good planet-shattering assumption as much as the next guy, but this won't do. I blame your lack of ambition. Yes, the surface of the sun is hot, but it's not that hot. You don't get really get to any of the fun stuff; you're nowhere near the temperature to have nuclear fusion effects, you're not even close to a temperature where you could turn the air to a plasma (you would need to go over 10000K for that). Where is your sense of fun? In fact, typical gases that you'd use on a gas stove (butane, propane, natural gas) burn at around 2000K, which is only a 3rd of the way to your temperature (even tho it's misleading to present a ratio since most temperature-dependent trends are nonlinear)\nThe problems are essentially going to come from the radiated heat. Let's estimate it (roughly) to get a ballpark idea of the damage. To do that, rather than calculating absolute values (which would be challenging anyway cause you don't give enough data), we will compare it to our good old gas stove:\nIt will pretty much only burn your house, and maybe a few neighbors but they probably deserved it\nOk, so, my stove burns at 2000K. Sun-boy is at 6000K. That's 3-times as much, and per the <PERSON>-Boltzmann law, the radiated power varies as the $T^4$, so, at equal surface areas and emissivity, Sun-boy would radiate $3^4=81$ times as much heat. Ok, but he is also bigger. In fact, the body surface area of an adult is around 2m2 (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Body_surface_area). Taking some quick measurements on my stove, I estimate that the flame surface can't exceed 0.03m2.", "912" ], [ "So Sun-guy's surface is about 70 times larger than my stove's flame. Assuming equal emissivities, we can conclude that\n$$\\text{Sun-guy will radiate roughly }70*81=5670\\text{ times as much heat as my stove}$$\nAccording to the inverse-square law, if I stand $\\sqrt{5670}=73$m away, I will receive as much heat as if I was standing 1m away from my stove. I can definitely get half a meter away from my stove without feeling pain, so I'd probably still be fine some 30m away from Sun-dude. How disappointing.\nIt still melts everything it touches tho, isn't that scary?\nWell not really. It just takes care of your problem for you really, by burying it 6 feet under. Quite fast, in fact. Some quick and dirty estimates with a latent heat of fusion around 200kJ/kg tell me that you could liquify around 70kg of rock per second (not counting the time to heat it up to fusion temperature, and not considering the fact that you will spend some of that energy further vaporizing the melted rocks). Standing still, you will probably be gone in a matter of tens of seconds to a few minutes. If <PERSON> can walk tho, it might actually be feasible to remain on top, since you don't melt the ground that fast (depending on assumptions, you might be sinking from 1 to 20cm/s)\nI lack the geology knowledge to tell if a white-hot mass sinking into the ground will cause problems down the line, but I doubt it, seeing the temperature of the interior of the earth. Just in case, I wouldn't stand close to the crater. It is likely going to get trigger happy with all that melted rock getting stirred up with pressurized bubbles\nIn summary, the damage you will do will be very localized (you will set a couple house on fire), and then the problem should take care of itself\n* ed by <PERSON>: sorry for vandalizing, I can't comment, your answer is great and just one small suggestion, pay attencion to soy boy density and molten rock density he will float, so he so sad that he even can't dive to the core of the planet. As evaporating ability 70kg easily can be slashed 4x (only half of sun guy works on evaporating, and latent heat of evaporation another 2x at least) all in all sinking potencial is quite limited. Great answer, sorry can't upvote either, due old browser.", "912" ], [ "Decrease the amount of light arriving but increase greenhouse gases\nEarth would be about 30°C colder if it was at its blackbody temperature, i.e. received the same amount of light but didn't have a greenhouse effect. The core idea here is to decrease the amount of light arriving while increasing the amount of greenhouse gases to maintain your planet's temperature.\nOne option is to be like Venus and have double digit percentages of CO2 instead of a few hundred parts per million.\nThere are also several relatively non toxic greenhouse gases that are hugely more potent than CO2: methane (23x more potent), CFCs (1000x more potent) and SF6 (A whoppimg 20000 - 50000x!)(1).\nIf methane or CFCs or SF6 are present in significant (not enormous) quantities, you could increase the temperature of Earth hugely.\nNow, the amount of heat absorbed/emitted by a planet is proportional to temperature to the 4th power; if you can increase the greenhouse effect by 40 degrees, then you could have the amount of sunlight reduce by 50% and still have the same temperature; increase it 60 degrees and you can have it reduce by 65%. 100 degrees allows 85%.\nSee e.g.", "184" ], [ "https://www.astro.indiana.edu/ala/PlanetTemp/index.html or other planet temperature calculators out there; this forum doubtless knows many.\nMaybe mankind could deliberately set off a methane clathrate gun or produce ludicrous amounts of SF6 to compensate for some event that knocked the planet further away from the sun. <PERSON>'s orbit change suggestion would work nicely.\n(1) SF6 is incredibly inert chemically but is very heavy so it builds up in the lungs of animals if present in any significant quantity, eventually choking them. Your fauna would need some way to expel it from their lungs, maybe l by totally displacing all the gas in their lungs when they breathe out, or by means of an enzyme that binds to it and transports it to the digestive tract. I assume CFCs would have the same problem. Methane won't; it's light.\nEdit: I'm guessing that seasons and maybe polar-equator temperature differences get minimised by doing this.", "591" ] ]

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[ [ "In my opinion, <PERSON> is the same person he was when he lost his body the first time round.\nFor one, <PERSON> looked cosmetically like he did before, haunting <PERSON> dreams the way <PERSON> remembered him to look. You can gather from this that he looked the same as when he fell, when he was a human who was missing pieces of his soul.\nThe thin man stepped out of the cauldron, staring at <PERSON> . . . and <PERSON> stared back into the face that had haunted his nightmares for three years. Whiter than a skull, with wide, livid scarlet eyes and a nose that was flat as a snakes with slits for nostrils . . .", "417" ], [ "-GoF\nAdditionally, Ministry of Magic employees recognise him at the end of book 5, meaning he looks the same, and talks the same as before he was resurrected.\n\"I saw him, Mr. <PERSON>, I swear it was <PERSON>, he grabbed a woman and Disapparated!\" \"I know, <PERSON>, I know, I saw him too!\" gibbered Fudge -OoTP\nEssentially killing someone in the HP universe means destroying the body of a soul. As <PERSON> had split his soul, he would not be able to successfully/peacefully enter the afterlife like <PERSON> did once his soul had no more bodies/containers left in this world.\nThe fragment of soul inside it depends on its container, its enchanted body, for survival. It can’t exist without it.\" -DH\nKilling <PERSON> after he has no more horcruxes would be the same as killing any other wizard, he could get maimed by a dagger (grey lady death), bleed out (when <PERSON> got splinched, he was losing blood and consciousness, which would lead to death), have his throat split (the original owner of the elder wand) or killed by any other methods that could hurt any regular human.\nIt's just worth noting that skilled wizards can heal injuries in ways we cannot imagine. Perhaps a gunshot wound could be healed by accio'ing out the bullet, blood replenishing potions, and a number of healing charms. Remember how <PERSON> essentially gave <PERSON> another hand after he cut it off with a dagger, which was painful and would have lead to him bleeding out.\nPlus, you wouldn't need magic to kill, wizards are more than aware of guns, just not the science behind them. They know they can kill people, but just as muggles are ignorant of wizarding ways, wizards are ignorant of muggle ways. They don't use them because they have no need to.\nWhile Muggles have been told that <PERSON> is carrying a gun (a kind of metal wand that Muggles use to kill each other) - POA", "773" ], [ "NEWTs and OWLs aren't necessarily requirements to work or survive in the future. Having them just proves you are certified and capable of doing x type of magic at a certain level like any other job in the real world, however experience is always key.\nIn addition to the <PERSON> and <PERSON> comment above (leaving and starting up their own joke shop), think of <PERSON> and <PERSON> (who forewent going to Hogwarts for their NEWT year)\n\"<PERSON> and <PERSON> utterly revolutionized the Auror Department,\" <PERSON> said. \"They are now the experts. It doesn't matter how old they are or what else they've done.\" - Interview with <PERSON>The Triwizard tournament is also a HUGE deal in the wizarding world. The Champions aren't chosen at random, there is a magic about them being chosen, being worthy enough (not to mention a thousand galleons, that could be invested in the future if they win). The challenges they have to go through are simply extraordinary for wizards, normal older qualified wizards wouldn't stand a chance without preparation. That's got to be worth a NEWT or two...right?\n\"Why should 'e complain?\" burst out <PERSON>, stamping her foot. \"E 'as ze chance to compete, 'asn't 'e? We 'ave all been 'oping to be chosen for weeks and weeks! Ze honor for our schools! A thousand Galleons in prize money ­ zis is a chance many would die for!\" -GoF\nBeing a Champion also meant that you were gifted in one way or another (or at least seen in that way by other wizards), gifted enough that those credentials that you were a champion would be with you forever and hold some weight in the eyes of other wizards.\nUsing the most recent Triwizard champions as examples, at least for <PERSON>, people started treating him like <PERSON>, who was already internationally famous. Note he was already a good student already too.\n\"Diggory,\" said <PERSON>.", "194" ], [ "\"He must be entering the tournament.\"\n\"That idiot, Hogwarts champion?\" said <PERSON> as they pushed their way through the chattering crowd toward the staircase.\n\"He's not an idiot. You just don't like him because he beat <PERSON> at Quidditch,\" said <PERSON>. \"I've heard he's a really good student ­ and he's a prefect.\" - GoF\nand\n<PERSON> actually saw the same sixth­year girls who had been so keen to get <PERSON>'s autograph begging <PERSON> to sign their school bags one lunchtime. -GoF\n<PERSON> herself was not dim, she was intelligent and gifted, proven by the fact she got a job at Gringotts not 2 years later, backed up by <PERSON> who knew she was intelligent. Gringotts, being the only wizarding bank, would also be extremely hard to get into. Just look at the real world and see how hard it is to work in a bank!\n\"<PERSON>'s not stupid, she was good enough to enter the Triwizard Tournament,\" said <PERSON>. - HBP\nand <PERSON> was an International Quidditch player, one of the best in the world. His life should be set, especially being just 18 years old.\nWhat about <PERSON>? Well, he's only the main character, the only person to have survived the killing curse...twice, taken down the darkest of all dark lords, and capable of a corporeal patronus at the age of 13.\nAlso, who would you hire? The 17 year old graduate who has a OUTSTANDING in Defence Against the Dark Arts, or the kid who just took down the don of all evil wizards?\nBeing seen as a champion put them on a different level to normal wizards. These credentials alone would have been able to get them a job and decent opportunities in their future careers if they didn't have any already.", "194" ], [ "In my opinion, some spells require a variety of actions that will enable it to work. It usually falls under (or a combination of):\n1. Magical ability\n2. Movement/Aim of wand\n3. Focus/Concentration/Willpower\n4. Saying the incantation\nIn the case of Accio, it requires not only magical ability, but also Focus/Concentration/Willpower, and saying the incantation. In some cases aiming at the target also works to narrow down targeting of the spell and make it easier (aiming at the beaded bag to pull out tent from Deathly Hallows).\n\"Concentrate, <PERSON>, concentrate. . .", "300" ], [ ".\" \"What d'you think I'm trying to do?\" said <PERSON> angrily. \"A great big dragon keeps popping up in my head for some reason...Okay, try again. . . .\" <PERSON> because a big scary dragon kept popping up in his mind and disrupting his spell, I would be assuming he is picturing and focussing on the broom (much like you have to picture your destination when apparating). Therefore, <PERSON> would have to visualise a molecule or atom, or something on a cellular level. As it would be difficult to remember exactly what an atom looks like for a wizard (and considering at best they won't study science post age 11), I doubt it would be possible to summon anything on a molecular level.\nFurthermore, the boy in the village would probably have been in <PERSON> line of sight, meaning it would be easier to picture and concentrate and aim as he could look at the boy to see what he wants, instead of focussing on it when he couldn't see it.\nAlso, it seems <PERSON> seems to work on a 1 to 1 basis, meaning saying Accio hairstrand would bring one hairstrand and not all the strands of hair. (In GoF, <PERSON> continuously said <PERSON> to summon the Ton Tongue Toffees, picturing them as opposed to saying the actual name of the item she was summoning). So if you were to say \"Accio Mitochondria\", it would bring only 1 mitochondria, which would be invisible to the naked eye anyway, and show no sign of change on the plant, making it seem like nothing happened. Perhaps a Priori Incantatem would show otherwise.", "300" ], [ "It isn't Unforgivable in the way that the Unforgivables are\nA popular fan theory is that there is no grey area with Unforgivable curses. They do what they say on the tin and nothing else. Killing curse kills, imperio controls, crucio tortures. The caster also has to fully understand and mean to cause the effect the curse entails too. There's no excuse for fully casting them other than they wanted to kill/control/torture.\nThis is alluded to in OotP when <PERSON> taunts <PERSON> about his weak/failed <PERSON>:\nHatred rose in <PERSON> such as he had never known before: he flung himself out from behind the fountain and bellowed, \"<PERSON>!\"\n<PERSON> screamed: the spell had knocked her off her feet, but she did not writhe and shriek with pain as <PERSON> had – she was already back on her feet, breathless, no longer laughing. [...]\n\"Never used an Unforgivable Curse before, have you, boy?\" she yelled.", "773" ], [ "She had abandoned her baby voice now. \"You need to mean them, <PERSON>! You need to really want to cause pain – to enjoy it – righteous anger won't hurt me for long – I'll show you how it is done, shall I? I'll give you a lesson —\" (36.30-32) Order of the Phoenix\nAnd again with fake!Moody in the Goblet of Fire where he claims during the Unforgivables class that if the class were to all point their wands at him and say \"<PERSON>\" he wouldn't get much more than a bloody nose - they'd have to mean it for him to die (unable to find the quote for this, sorry).\nSectumsempra is different:\n<PERSON> is able to fully cast Sectumsempra off-hand and in a panic without understanding any of it's effects. Plus the curse is ambiguous as to how much damage it does, and as <PERSON><PHONE_NUMBER>) Order of the Phoenix\nAnd again with fake!Moody in the Goblet of Fire where he claims during the Unforgivables class that if the class were to all point their wands at him and say \"Avada Kedavra\" he wouldn't get much more than a bloody nose - they'd have to mean it for him to die (unable to find the quote for this, sorry).\nSectumsempra is different:\nHarry is able to fully cast Sectumsempra off-hand and in a panic without understanding any of it's effects. Plus the curse is ambiguous as to how much damage it does, and as Snape proves the damage is reversible. This makes it on par with spells like Reducto, Confringo, or Bombarda Maxima. Each of these spells could be used to decimate another wizard, but also could be used to wound instead.\nI would imagine in the HP universe there are more than just three curses that you aren't allowed to use too - the Unforgivables are just the worst and so are on another level. Sectumsempra would most likely regarded as Dark/illegal/restricted, along with other spells such as the organ-expelling/skin-boiling curse etc.", "773" ], [ "How is <PERSON> a 'bad wizard'?\nIn Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire, <PERSON>, <PERSON> and <PERSON> run into <PERSON> and <PERSON> at the Hogwarts kitchens. When <PERSON> mentions <PERSON> is a judge for the Triwizard Tournament, <PERSON> (<PERSON>'s sacked house elf) says this:\n“Mr. <PERSON> comes too?” squeaked <PERSON>, and to <PERSON>’s great surprise (and <PERSON>’s and <PERSON>’s too, by the looks on their faces), she looked angry again. “Mr. <PERSON> is a bad wizard! A very bad wizard! My master isn’t liking him, oh no, not at all!”\n“<PERSON> — bad?” said <PERSON>.\n“Oh yes,” <PERSON> said, nodding her head furiously. “My master is telling <PERSON> some things! But <PERSON> is not saying . . . <PERSON> — <PERSON> keeps her master’s secrets. . . .”\nHarry Potter and the Goblet of Fire, Chapter 21: The House Elf Liberation Front\nMy question is,\nWhy is <PERSON> considered to be a 'very bad wizard'?\nYes, that is only the opinion of <PERSON>. Everyone else seems to like <PERSON> (except <PERSON>, of course). But even <PERSON> doesn't seem to think <PERSON> is a bad wizard. <PERSON> just doesn't seem to like that <PERSON> is not a very good Head of Department because he hasn't sent out a search party for a missing <PERSON>.", "899" ], [ "<PERSON> is also shown (in various parts of the book) to not really care about <PERSON> security\n\"... And <PERSON>’s not helping. Trotting around talking about Bludgers and <PERSON> at the top of his voice, not a worry about anti-Muggle security...\"\n\"I thought Mr. <PERSON> was Head of Magical Games and Sports,” said <PERSON>, looking surprised. “He should know better than to talk about Bludgers near Muggles, shouldn’t he?”\n“He should,” said Mr. <PERSON>, smiling, and leading them through the gates into the campsite, “but <PERSON>’s always been a bit . . . well . . . lax about security...\"\n...\n<PERSON> was easily the most noticeable person <PERSON> had seen so far, even including old <PERSON> in his flowered nightdress. He was wearing long Quidditch robes in thick horizontal stripes of bright yellow and black.\nHarry Potter and the Goblet of Fire, Chapter 7: Bagman and Crouch\n<PERSON> walks about the campsites outside the Quidditch stadium wearing his Quidditch robes while all other Ministry wizards are in Muggle clothing.\nHe is also quite unscrupulous, paying off his betting debts with Leprechaun Gold (which disappears after a few hours), and betting on <PERSON> in the Triwizard Tournament even though he is a judge himself.\nHowever, as much as <PERSON> loves sticking by rules and regulations, these shortcomings of <PERSON>'s can hardly classify him into the 'very bad wizard' category. <PERSON>'s demeanour seems to suggest <PERSON> is almost a dark wizard. Is there any canon evidence (movies don't count as canon) which corroborates <PERSON>'s statement? If not canon, well reasoned answers will be appreciated.", "899" ], [ "Sometimes it was out of his control, in other times it was depending on circumstance.\nFor example, in book 1, <PERSON> was the teacher. He was a teacher in the past but because <PERSON> (who cursed the DADA post so no one would last more than 3 terms) was possessing <PERSON>, he was able to stay longer than others.\nIn book 2, <PERSON> is the teacher. This is because no one else wants the post, not because <PERSON> wanted him in particular. We also learn that the job is essentially cursed.\n\"He was the on' man for the job,\" said <PERSON>, offering them a Y plate of treacle fudge, while <PERSON> coughed squelchily into his basin. \"An' I mean the on' one. Gettin' very difficult ter find anyone fer Y the Dark Arts job. People aren't too keen ter take it on, see.", "417" ], [ "They're startin' ter think it's jinxed. No one's lasted long fer a while now. -Chamber of Secrets\nIn book 3, chances are looking slim for a teacher, but <PERSON> (a werewolf who people are reluctant to employ) gets a chance by <PERSON> to teach. He was by peer judgement a very good teacher (approved by Madam <PERSON>, students, and teachers).\nIn book 4, the Triwizard Tournament takes place, and as <PERSON> points out that <PERSON> is reading the signs, gets Mad eye <PERSON> to take the post, just for 1 year (pointed out to be an teacher experienced in his field even though he turned out to be <PERSON> and placed illegal curses on his students)\nIf it hurts again, go straight to <PERSON> ­ they're saying he's got Mad­Eye out of retirement, which means he's reading the signs, even if no one else is. Goblet of Fire\nIn book 5, it is in the same position as Book 2. No one wants the job, with the public considering it cursed, however, this time the ministry intervene and force <PERSON> to employ a ministry witch (<PERSON>) in essence to spy and cause trouble at Hogwarts.\nIn book 6, <PERSON> needed <PERSON> in order to obtain a memory, and as <PERSON> taught potions, <PERSON> had to move to the vacant role he so longed for (DADA). <PERSON> also knew he was going to die, so gave <PERSON> his wish at teaching DADA knowing that he would play a larger role when <PERSON> goes in the school anyway (technically <PERSON> didn't last longer than 3 months either, he left before the end of the last term, and came back as a headteacher).\nIn book 7, <PERSON> was inactive due to being in the afterlife. Not his fault!", "194" ], [ "In-universe, maybe <PERSON> made up a name for him without realizing its normal use.\nCalling Lord <PERSON> <PERSON> is the Death Eaters' term of respect for him. It's not something said by people who oppose him. However, <PERSON> would most likely not know that. She is young, and would not know much about him or the Death Eaters.\nIn her love poem, she is saying a lot of things that she likely made up herself. She's comparing <PERSON>'s eyes to toads and his hair to a blackboard, and I doubt that even in the wizarding world, those are common idioms or that she's heard anyone else using those analogies.\nSo it's possible she made up her own way of referring to Lord <PERSON>, and it's just a coincidence that it happened to be the name that the Death Eaters call him by. She wouldn't have thought twice about using the term she made up, because she wouldn't realize its usual significance.\n(Although he wasn't lovestruck and writing a poem at the time, this may be the case for why <PERSON> called Lord <PERSON> the Dark Lord as well.)\nOut-of-universe, it could be a continuity error.\nWhen commenting on the question, <PERSON> pointed out something interesting.", "247" ], [ "Also in Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets, <PERSON> called Lord <PERSON> the Dark Lord as well.\n(<PERSON> calling him <PERSON> makes sense. Up until <PERSON> freed him, he was the house elf to the <PERSON>. <PERSON> was a Death Eater, so he would call Lord <PERSON> the Dark Lord, and so would all the other people frequently around him. <PERSON> would have learned the term from them, and called Lord <PERSON> the only name he knew for him, despite his opinions on the Dark Lord being different from the <PERSON>'.)\nMy theory is that when this book was written, <PERSON> hadn't yet decided that she wanted the Death Eaters to call him <PERSON>, and was just using it as a general term. Later, when both Lord <PERSON> and the Death Eaters were a bigger part of the story, she decided to make \"<PERSON>\" be the term of respect that the Death Eaters used for their master.\nI'm fairly sure that after the Death Eaters become a large part of the story, they and the people around them or controlled by them are the only ones to call him <PERSON>. <PERSON> doesn't count, because he was pretending to be one, so would have to use the same name they would.", "247" ], [ "My anwer is mostly based on the speculation that <PERSON> intended to make the Elder Wand into a trap for <PERSON>\nThe complete thread is here http://scifi.stackexchange.com/questions/73717/why-didnt-severus-disapparate-in-the-shrieking-shack\nfrom deathly Hollows chapter: King's Cross\n“But you expected him to go after the wand?”\n“I have been sure that he would try, ever since your wand beat <PERSON>’s in the graveyard of Little Hangleton. At first, he was afraid that you had conquered him by superior skill. Once he had kidnapped <PERSON>, however, he discovered the existence of the twin cores.\n...naturally set out to find the one wand that, they said, would beat any other.\n...He believes that the Elder Wand removes his last weakness and makes him truly invincible. Poor <PERSON> . . .”\nNow that <PERSON> is sure that <PERSON> was after his wand. <PERSON> forms his plan. <PERSON> intends to turn the Elder wand (Unbeatable wand) into a trap for <PERSON>\nThe first step is to have <PERSON> kill him, in such a way that wand ownership does not transfer to <PERSON> (<PERSON> intends to die unvanquished)\nSecond Step is <PERSON> forms his plan with these scenarios in mind\nScenario 1\n<PERSON> steals the wand from <PERSON>'s grave (thinking and \"believing\" that stealing the wand will be enough to make him the wand's master).\n* end results:\n* <PERSON> would \"not\" have to die (preferable outcome - in <PERSON>'s mind).\n* <PERSON> won't order anybody else to kill <PERSON>. <PERSON> \"believes\" that he owns the Unbeatable Wand and <PERSON> himself will want to kill <PERSON> (which is the essential part of <PERSON>'s plan).\nDeathly Hollows chapter the prince's tale\n“So the boy .", "773" ], [ ". . the boy must die?” asked <PERSON> quite calmly.\n“And <PERSON> himself must do it, <PERSON>. That is essential.”\nScenario 2\n<PERSON> steals the wand \"but\" eventually deduces that he needs to kill <PERSON> (<PERSON>'s killer) to gain the Unbeatable Wand's loyalty.\n* end results:\n* <PERSON> has to die (regrettable to <PERSON>'s mind of course, but necessary)\n* <PERSON> won't order anybody else to kill <PERSON>. <PERSON> \"believes\" that he owns the Unbeatable Wand and <PERSON> himself will want to kill <PERSON> (which is the essential part of <PERSON>'s plan)\nTo resolve the discrepancy of wand ownership:\nDeathly Hallows chapter the Flaw in the plan\n“He killed —”\n“Aren’t you listening? <PERSON> never beat <PERSON>! <PERSON>’s death was planned between them! <PERSON> intended to die undefeated, the wand’s last true master! If all had gone as planned, the wand’s power would have died with him, because it had never been won from him!”\n.\nDeathly Hallows chapter King's Cross\nHe believes that the Elder Wand removes his last weakness and makes him truly invincible. Poor <PERSON> . . .”\n“If you planned your death with <PERSON>, you meant him to end up with the Elder Wand, didn’t you?”\n“I admit that was my intention,” said <PERSON>, “but it did not work as I intended, did it?”\n“No,” said <PERSON>. “That bit didn’t work out.”\nFirst quote takes precedence since it is more specific.\nThe conversation between <PERSON> and <PERSON> should actually be read as\n“If you planned your death with <PERSON>, you meant him (<PERSON>) to end up with the Elder Wand, didn’t you?”\nMy speculation is that it was only in King's Cross chapter that <PERSON> realized that <PERSON> was supposed to end up with the wand. <PERSON> also needed to confirm this with <PERSON> since only <PERSON> has the complete specifics of his own plan.", "773" ] ]

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[ [ "aside: The water pipe analogy is actually quite accurate, but most high school students don't learn fluid dynamics and the heavy calculus makes it more trouble than it's worth. (If you treat volumetric flow rate as akin to current, and pressure as electric flux density, then using <PERSON>'s equation neglecting gravity, assuming constant area and velocity along a pipe/wire, it all works out).\nvoltage\nWe have a device that can measure \"voltage\" between two points (not just in a circuit but in the air, on the ground, wherever you place the terminals).\nThe first thing is that if we measure the \"voltage\" between A and B, and then between A and C, the voltage between B and C will be the difference between these two—if you freeze time, at least. So this means you can pick whatever reference point you like, then any other point in the universe has a certain electric potential (measured in volts) relative to the reference point. So, there is something in the fabric of space that can be \"stronger\" or \"weaker\" than other parts of space. This is what we call the \"electric field\".\nNote that this is not about electrons. It is possible to have a positively charged plate and a negatively charged plate and a total vacuum in between, but this vacuum will linearly transition from one potential to another. (I.e. the voltage across the left half equals the voltage across the right half.)\nIn a simple electric circuit, each point has a fixed voltage (usually measured relative to \"ground\"). Any loop through the circuit will involve exactly the same amount of \"going up\" as \"going down\".\ncurrent and resistance\nCurrent and resistance are probably more intuitive in the context of electric circuits.", "395" ], [ "Current is roughly speaking a count of how many electrons pass through an area (e.g. the cross-section area of a wire or resistor) per unit time. Resistance is how many volts will produce 1 amp of current flowing \"across a resistor\". Technically this means measuring the voltage between both ends of the resistor, and the current at some cross-section anywhere before, in, or after the resistor. The current will be effectively the same anywhere you you section (not beyond branches in wires of course).\n(Obviously we also have devices that can measure current and resistance; I made a point about measuring voltage because electric fields are the hardest thing to grasp.)\nmore on current and resistance\nWhen electrons are free to flow, they are driven to equalise electric fields. The stronger the field, the more electrons will flow. However, different materials will resist electron flow to different degrees, hence differences in resistance (or rather resistivity). And electrons can be forced to flow the other way—batteries use chemical reactions, and generators use electromagnetism.\nOne way to see how current is proportional to surface area is this: assume you have 1A traveling along a wire, and you have 1A travelling down another wire, that's 2 coulombs per second. If you squash the two wires into one, the surface area will double and you will still have the same number of coulombs per second — 2.", "395" ], [ "Question 1:\nLet's treat the particle (assuming positively charged; just flip the directions for negative charges) as if it's at the axis (or very, very close to it, compared to the radius of the loop). Then the magnetic field of the loop is pointing down (away from the center of the loop, towards the particle), so the force on the particle (right hand rule) is into the page. This causes the particle to move in a circle in a plane parallel to the plane containing the first loop, but in the opposite direction. Then the particle generates it's own magnetic field. This field is pointing up on the axis of the particles's loop, but then curls away from the axis to wrap around underneath (this is the magnetic field of a dipole, I'm sure you've seen a picture of it). Then at the loop itself, the magnetic field has a radial component and a vertical component. The vertical component causes a radial force on the loop; this cancels because each part of the loop has force equal and opposite to the part of the loop directly opposite it.", "531" ], [ "The radial component of the magnetic field induces a downward force, pulling the loop towards the particle. So in total we have a magnetic force on the particle pushing it in a circle, and a magnetic force from this circle on the loop pulling it towards the particle. There are higher order corrections that can be made based on the magnetic field caused by the current loop accelerating downward, but those are usually quite small. There isn't an upward force on the particle; <PERSON>'s third law doesn't apply directly to magnetic forces, because they don't act along the line connecting the charges. In trying to understand magnetic fields and forces, I would advise staying away from the \"North pole/South pole\" idea and instead work with vectors, because then there is less possibility for a conceptual error (just make sure to keep track of minus signs).\nADDED: Question 2:\nI don't think \"synchronizes\" is the right word here. The charges are not necessarily moving at the same angular velocity as the particle; they are almost certainly slower. They do circle in the same direction, if you assume that both positive and negative charges are moving in the loop (this is possible, e.g., in plasmas, but in wires it is just the negative ones). Did you mean something else by \"sychronized\"?", "531" ], [ "This is all about diffusion. The speed of individual molecules is not relevant, because they collide with one another and change direction so frequently (at least at standard temperature and pressure) that this speed does not at all characterize the diffusion of one species into another.\nEngineers have tabulated rate coefficients that describe the rate of diffusion of various gases through air, for example: https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/air-diffusion-coefficient-gas-mixture-temperature-d_2010.html\nThis doesn't give the rate you'd want, but we can get the ballpark studying a similar rate, Argon diffusing through air.\nSay you've got a can with Argon on the bottom, air on top, and a 1 cm mixed layer between otherwise pure gases.\nJ = (D = 0.189 cm^2/s) * (1.7 kg/m^3 Argon at STP)/(1cm) = 31.8 kg/cm^2/s\nThis is the mass flux of argon through the barrier. Multiply by some area A, Divide by argon density at STP (1.7 kg/m^3), and divide by A again to get argon flow per unit area, areas cancel and we have: = 1.89 cm/s. Note that the Argon mass actually canceled out here too, basically the mix rate just relates to how thick the boundary layer starts out. Initially, when it is infinitesimal, the rate is infinite, since the rate is just D=0.189 cm^2/s divided by the boundary layer thickness L, which I assumed to start at 1 cm.\nThis means that the pure argon below diffuses up into the pure air through the boundary at like 2 cm/s. Of course one second later the boundary layer is 3 cm thick instead of 1, so the rate slows 3x.", "580" ], [ "Three seconds later it is five centimeters thick. You have to solve a differential equation to really get your answer of how long, and the notion of a firm boundary between pure and boundary layer is just an approximation. But roughly... continuing this pattern you hit 21 cm thick \"boundary layer\" after 100 seconds, which I'm guessing is close to your tank size. Double or triple that for the boundary layer to further mix up to your .1% requirement, and we're at 5 minutes.\nNotably, given this surprisingly slow timescale, it probably does help to shake up the tank. I suspect that Argon is a slightly worse case than N2 and O2, but I don't really know. Comparing other gases on the engineering toolbox link, seems like D roughly goes with mass, lighter mass higher D, but Argon isn't very different from air anyway (40 v 29).", "441" ], [ "This question is more interesting than I thought at first. I like it. There are several different parts to an answer to this question; I'll just contribute a couple that have something in common: our bodies (and everything else, it has nothing to do with bodies) also emit photons about as fast as they absorb them.\nOn the macroscopic/thermal scale, we have black-body radiation. Via black-body radiation, all matter emits a continuous spectrum of radiation. The distribution of this spectrum depends primarily on the temperature of the object. This is why objects placed in a fire appear to glow red, whether they be wood or metal or rocks. Our bodies also emit radiation this way, but at our temperature, this spectrum is in the infrared range, so it isn't visible (to humans—snakes can see body heat). Since everything absorbs and emits photons this way, there's an equilibrium where we receive as much thermal energy as we lose, although that's only in an environment where everything is at equilibrium.", "184" ], [ "Hot things like the sun and incandescent lights can throw this off, which is why it feels hot to go outside... or to be under a heat lamp. Anyway, don't worry about filling up on too many photons, they leave you just as fast.\nOn the microscopic scale, we have the hard-to-spell phenomenon of fluorescence. When a high-energy photon is absorbed by an atom, some of its energy can be reemitted as a lower-energy photon. Of course, this doesn't happen every time, and I don't know if it happens much in our bodies. It depends on the material's properties. That's where we get fluorescent lights and pigments and laundry detergents—detergent manufacturers actually include fluorescent pigments in their products so that clothes emit more visible light than they physically should by absorbing UV light and reemitting it in the visible range. Anyway, while I'm not sure if that principle in particular saves you from atomization, it's worth remembering that not every photon that hits you stays there.\nSo in conclusion, even though the energy that light brings to our bodies (and the earth) is substantial (imagine if there were no sun—radiation is important!), we're not going to fill up on photons to bursting. We're at equilibrium.", "104" ], [ "While it is true that, at least over time, Earth will equilibrate so the mountain sinks down, displacing the denser material below, this would also mean that the material just beside the mountain is less dense, and thus there is a similar reduction in g due to this when standing beside it.\nAnd while the increased mass is quite small relative to Earth, you are also a lot closer to it. So you need to consider both factors.\nIf we do a first order approximation for the change in gravity due to the height of the mountain, we get; $$ dg=\\frac{2 G M h}{R^3} $$ where $R$ is the radius of Earth, $M$ is the mass of Earth and $h$ is the height of the mountain.\nIf we treat the mountain as a sphere with a diameter of $h$ and a density of $\\rho$, then the acceleration due to gravity when standing on top of it is: $$ a=\\frac{G \\rho (4/3) \\pi (h/2)^3}{(h/2)^2} =\\frac{2 G \\pi \\rho h}{3} $$\nAnd with that we end up with a ratio of the 2 forces dependent upon the density of the mountain (as both are linearly dependent upon the height) $$ \\frac{a}{dg}=\\frac{\\pi \\rho R^3}{3M} $$ So for a spherical mountain you need a density of roughly 22000 kg/m^3, e.g.", "15" ], [ "a mountain of osmium, to have the gravity due to the mountain increase your weight more than the extra height decreases it.\nHaving mass in addition to that sphere (without taking away from that sphere) would reduce that density requirement. But even if you modelled it as a cylinder where h=d to calculate the mass, and overestimated the force due to gravity by treating it as a sphere/point mass, you end up needing a density of roughly 15000 kg/m^3.\nHowever the effect is much greater than the 0.2% suggested by userLTK. With a specific gravity of 2.7, the effect of the mass of the spherical mountain is 12% that of the effect of the increased distance from Earth.", "921" ], [ "Given your conditions (a strong rigid container filled with water) it would never boil no matter how much heat you add. The lack of gravity would not change this answer.\nBoiling causes water to change from a liquid to a gas. As a liquid, the molecules are always touching (but they are not rigidly connected as they are in ice). So as water they take up little space. In a gas, as steam, the molecules are flying around freely and spend relatively little time bumping into each other. They take up a lot more space as a gas. The pressure of the gas on the walls of a container arises from the constant bombardment of the molecules hitting the walls of the container. If there is less space for the steam then there will be more bumping into the walls so there will be more pressure.\nWhat would happen in your question is that as you add heat the water would try to expand a little.", "815" ], [ "Finding no room for expansion, the pressure would rise dramatically. The boiling point of water is very dependent on the pressure, so as the pressure goes up so does the boiling point.\nAt some point it will pass the \"critical point\" of water, beyond which there is no phase change between liquid and gas. The critical point of water is known to be about 374° C and 3212 PSI, which is well over 200 atmospheres.\nNow, if you change your conditions to an open container in no gravity, but in a space craft with normal atmospheric pressure, some of the water might gradually float out and form balls because of surface tension. But this is not boiling. It would be hard to heat the water this way.\nIf you change the conditions again so that the open container is exposed to the vacuum of space, then the vacuum means the boiling point of water pretty much matches the freezing point of water. Water at 20° C would way above the boiling point and so it would instantly (perhaps explosively) boil until the cooling effect of doing so brought the temperature of any remaining water down to near freezing.\nAt 0.01° C and just under 1% of an atmosphere of pressure, you have reached the triple point of water. This is where ice, liquid water and steam can exist in equilibrium. But in the vacuum of space you have zero pressure and there can be no liquid water. At zero pressure, water sublimes (changes directly from ice to steam with no liquid state, like dry ice) at about -60° C.\nSearch \"critical point of water\" and \"triple point of water\" for more info, Wikipedia articles and YouTube videos.", "815" ], [ "While there may not be an electrical effect, per se, there will be an effect, however tiny. Many of the responses seem to focus on the tininess of the effect and conflate \"really really small\" with \"doesn't exist\".\nSpecifically (and maybe there are others that I'm not thinking of), the temperature of the sun is a function of the radiation leaving it minus the radiation it receives from around it. This fact is encapsulated in the radiative heat transfer law where heat exchange is equal to the <PERSON>-Boltzmann constant times the difference of the 4th powers of the temperatures. Because the earth is absorbing radiation from the sun, its temperature increases, increasing the amount of thermal radiation it, in turn, radiates outward. Some very tiny fraction of that light will hit the sun, increasing its temperature by such a tiny bit.", "184" ], [ "To be sure, the effect is compounded by the fact that the earth also reflects some light to the sun, which has the same effect, it just doesn't follow the 4th power law.\nIn other words, the earth is a tiny piece of insulation, blocking the heat of the sun from escaping and warming it up ever so slightly.\nSo when you throw a solar panel in the mix, you're actually (and usually very temporarily) converting some of that radiation into ordered work instead of pure heat, So the temperature of the earth increases just slightly less, causing just slightly less heat radiation back to the sun.\nThe are other effects of course; since solar panels absorb most light and reflect very little, they may actually increase the absorption of heat from the sun, although the albedo of black asphalt single is also pretty low (which is why the white roofs are mentioned elsewhere). So if the albedo of the solar panels plus their efficiency in converting light to electricity is less than the albedo of the background (the roof), then the temperature of the earth actually goes up, but the reflection goes down. Either way, there's an effect.\nI think part of the confusion lies in the fact that many (maybe all? ) of our physical laws, especially those dealing with wavelike phenomena are pragmatic approximations. So things like the near-field effect don't suddenly vanish after a few wavelengths, they just become so small that they make no difference in the predictive power of those models for practical use. Which is to say, they become smaller than other sources of error in the prediction of how the system will behave. Negligible does not mean nonexistent.", "184" ], [ "Blue photons (= photons of ~420 nm wavelength) have higher energy than red ones (= photons of ~600 nm wavelength). That means that each individual absorbed blue photon will indeed heat the surface more, because it gives it more energy. But two red photons would heat the surface more than a single blue photon. Photons themselves don't \"have\" heat, heat is a collective consequence of random motion of many atoms/molecules/...\nPhotoelectric effect in the video is a bit different phenomenon from heating the material because photons need sufficient energy to eject electrons from the material. Red light might not eject any electrons no matter how many photons hit the material, while blue would even if you have few photons (and therefore lower heating).\nTemperature of light, eg as on \"3000K\" light bulbs, is something different still. Blackbody gives out EM radiation. Spectrum of that radiation depends on the temperature - say something at 3000K has peak of radiation at approximately 1 micrometer wavelength (near-IR) while our sun at ~6000K has peak at green light.", "184" ], [ "And that temperature designation of the light bulb simply means \"this bulb gives out light that has approximately similar spectrum to the body at this temperature\" (skipping details about color quality).\nYou can start with 3000K bulbs, then add filter to get 6000K light. First light is red-ish, second one is blue-ish. But even though after filter your photons flying out are more blue and therefore have more energy on average, this filter absorbed (or reflected; in video filter absorbed light) quite a lot of energy - many red photons had to get blocked. So, average photon has higher energy, but total energy of all photons in the light is lower. Shining unfiltered red-ish light on thermometer would heat it more than shining filtered blue-ish light on it.\nThis losing energy is true even if you have laser light and convert it to have half the wavelength (eg 1064 nm to 532 nm) - in that case all input photons have low energy and all output photons have high energy, but you lost many (at least half) photons in the process, so the total energy (that gets converted to heat by absorber) is the same or usually lower (with some energy lost during conversion and resulting in heating of the converter). In this case of up-conversion (photons flying out having higher energy) you can also get photoelectric effect with the converted light while original one doesn't kick single electron out of the material. This is unlike with filters that merely block some wavelengths - there, photoelectric effect of filtered light is at most the same as in original light.", "970" ] ]

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[ [ "Should I get my 12 yo dog fixed?\nHi all, I have a unaltered 12yo <PERSON>.\nHe came into my care about a year ago, and has been one of the most amazing dogs I've had the pleasure of interacting with. He does great with other dogs despite not being fixed. I've of course kept his socialization limited to that of close friends dogs who are fixed and he does perfectly fine with them.\nI have been getting pressure to get him fixed though, from some friends saying he'll be better off in the long run.", "1011" ], [ "I can't really justify it though. He doesn't exhibit any of the negative behaviors or health issues that typically come from being unaltered. I take him to the vet for checkups every three months and he's in good health aside from some cataracts (which is to be expected for his age.) It just doesn't really seem worth it to deal with the worries of anesthesia and the healing process considering his age.\nAm I in the wrong here?", "961" ], [ "Any advice on dog wards?\nI have a 10 year old poddle mix and I noticed that he has a couple of wards on his back. During his annual physical a couple of months ago the vet told me that wards are normal for older dogs and that I shouldn’t worry.", "63" ], [ "However lately they seem to be growing and I am not sure what it means. His vet won’t have any available appointments until the end of August and I am not sure if I should wait until then or take him somewhere else. I would really appreciate any advice from other dog owners who have experience with this.", "961" ], [ "Good joint supplements for an older dog?\nI have a 10 year old golden retriever. Over the past few months, she's slowed down a fair bit. She gets tired more easily and doesn't run much.", "114" ], [ "She's been to the vet a few times and they've said she's in great health, but considering her breed, age and recent behaviour, I'm guessing her joints are hurting. I brought this up to the vet and they offered temporary anti inflammatory painkillers and a long term joint supplement. Vets suggested YuMove but they're pretty expensive for a large dog. I'm willing to get them still but does anyone have any suggestions?", "114" ], [ "Need help understanding strange dog behavior that looks like itching but isn’t\nHi friends, Hoping to get some guidance before going deep at the vet and spending a ton of money.\n<PERSON> is a healthy 4yo female Jack Russell terrier. Overall she is very healthy.", "664" ], [ "She has seasonal allergies which we treat with a Cytopoint injection every few months.\nShe is current on NextGuard, and isn’t taking any other meds.\nThis behavior in the video looks like there’s something “crawling” under her skin. She bops at her body with her nose, but isn’t really itching. Her skin doesn’t look irritated.\nShe is obsessed with doing this", "664" ], [ "Paws (not claws) hurting me all of a sudden?\nI realize this may seem like a trivial question, but it's causing me a lot of angst because she gets upset if I try to make to make her lay down when she's standing on my lap.\nObviously, if she were to dig her claws into me, that would hurt. But as of the last few months, her actual paws have caused pain on my thighs like I have big concrete cylinders being driven into my legs.", "881" ], [ "She hasn't gotten too heavy; in fact, she's been on a diet and lost almost a pound over several months. It's also not a lingering pain; as soon as she lays down or jumps on the back of my chair, I'm fine.\nWhat could be the reason for this, and how do I fix it? She gets on my lap and stands A LOT because she doesn't like the aforementioned diet and wants me to give her more food. Thank you for any advice!\nSorry I couldn't get a better picture; I was having a bit of trouble maneuvering the phone around her LOL.", "664" ], [ "Has anyone seen anything like this?\nMy 4 y/o dog started having these “fits” at about 6 months old. He was first diagnosed with seizures and went on a cocktail of anti convulsant mediation for years until I could get in with a vet who took my protestations seriously. He is responsive during these fits and—instead of being exhausted—will normally run off afterward. He also normally shakes first/seems disassociated.\nFor context, we rescued him from friends who worked on a farm near a puppy mill. They knew the breeders were going to put him down so they took him and gave him to us. At first, he just had some trouble walking, these distressing events didn’t start for several months. We have gotten him regular veterinary care since getting him, and we have tried everything the vets have suggested.", "63" ], [ "He has had stints on steroids and that’s when he is at his best. But other than when he is on steroids, it isn’t getting/hasn’t gotten any better.\nHe has these episodes about 3 times per day, normally when he is excited (when we first get home, when he is about to eat, etc.). They are short (a few minutes at the most) and don’t seem to effect him otherwise. He also has Swimmers so his gait is off. Despite all this, he is a happy boy who loves to snuggle and sniff and roam. Even when he is in the midst of an episode, he doesn’t snap or seen defensive.\nAnyway, I’ve googled his symptoms and it kind of sounds like inflammatory brain syndrome, but I brought that up to the vets and they’ve knocked it down. I’m wondering if anyone has seen anything like this or has any suggestions of what veterinary care I should seek.", "63" ], [ "Is my cat overweight or just fine?\nI have a handsome black cat named <PERSON> and have been concerned whether or not he been getting too big weight wise or just getting older. He’s currently three years old.", "176" ], [ "I feed him 1/4 cup of food twice a day 10-12 hours in between each meal but its blue buffalo so idk if that comes into play with my concern. Ive recently bought science diet for him but don’t want the money that went into the blue buffalo to go to waste so I’m using it at the moment. I play with him every other day and try to do it more but am busy.", "833" ], [ "Seeking Advice on ACL Surgery for My Maine Coon Cat\nI'm seeking some advice about my Maine Coon cat who recently had an ACL tear diagnosed by a surgeon. The backstory is a bit lengthy, but here goes:\nOver the past two years, my cat has been limping on and off. Each time this happened, we took him to the vet who would typically prescribe pain medication. This approach seemed to alleviate the limp each time, leading our vet to suggest that he may be faking it for attention or his weight could be the culprit.\nFor reference, he is a larger cat, weighing in at 19lbs currently. To address potential weight issues, we put him on a diet which helped him reduce from 23lbs to 19lbs. However, the limping persisted.\nRecently, after moving homes, we noticed his limp worsening significantly. We decided to take a step further and consulted a surgeon, and X-rays confirmed the ACL tear.", "961" ], [ "The surgeon has recommended immediate intervention and corrective surgery, warning that heavier cats are at higher risk of tearing their other leg's ACL if left untreated due to shifted body weight.\nI've done some online research, finding conflicting reports. Some suggest this surgery can improve a cat's quality of life, while others warn it could worsen their condition. We are not concerned about the cost; our top priority is our cat's health and happiness.\nSince the limping started, we've noticed a significant decrease in his activity level. He doesn't play as much as he used to, doesn't fetch anymore, and spends most of his time lying around the house. This isn't like him; as a loving and friendly Maine Coon, he was more active in the past. He's nearly 7 years old now.\nWe're hoping someone here has had a similar experience or can provide advice on what we should do next. Should we go ahead with the surgery, or are there alternative treatments we should explore?\nThank you in advance for any help you can provide!", "961" ] ]

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[ [ "Why is my cousins dog so aggressive?\nHello! This is my cousins dog, named ‘Chiweenie Brains’ and every time I babysit ‘Chiweenie Brains’ he ALWAYS attacks me and in a lot of occasions he bites and tears apart my cloth! my cousin always says “he is just playing” or he is “bored” even though him ‘playing’ is a horrible exuse since he bites me all over my body and gets me to bleed sometimes. What do I do in this situation? Any advice?\nhttps://preview.redd.it/dnqhf5det8la1.png?width=2160&format=png&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=ebdc2fbb5688a4a7ddb2c2cd27883cc7a8ade12e\nhttps://preview.redd.it/9mvg05det8la1.png?width=2160&format=png&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=d7dae27f328c4486f3dd3a82be8db67427d633a8", "210" ], [ "PLEASE HELP!\nOkay! this is <PERSON>, my cousins mom got him from a breeder somewhere though not sure which. He is apperently a shih tzu Non mix. But I don’t exactly buy that Because he looks kinda different from other shih Tzus of seen online, maybe that’s just me idk.", "210" ], [ "I love him Alot he’s a bit stubborn, barks alot but a funny guy. So please atleast attempt to tell me what he’s mix with exactly. Thank you everyone\nhttps://preview.redd.it/rs6oqy9fkv7b1.jpg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=5bac8104e82ab23ad2cde16772d21d9ce89b22e8\nhttps://preview.redd.it/ghkmwy9fkv7b1.jpg?width=2448&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=482b9daba5522520af4b63ea9eab019e0e2934b6\nhttps://preview.redd.it/vfj3p0afkv7b1.jpg?width=2448&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=8805ad7e57595d051400330ec29f92c986572b1a", "670" ], [ "Puppy Mouthy\nHi, I need a little bit of guidance when it comes to my 6m old Carolina Dog mix. He’s always roaming the house and steals any article of clothing he can find. Also late at night he screams/barks in his crate meanwhile he’ll happily nap in the crate during the day. But at night it’s like a different dog. He can’t sleep with us because he’ll roam and ruin things. I’ve tried treadmill training which he can do but hates it, puzzles to occupy his mind but it doesn’t seem to hold him over he just gets bored and goes after stealing again. He plays with the other dog in the house and every trick to make him play “nicer” does not work, not even when the other dog checks him.", "833" ], [ "When I correct him or anything in that nature he gets really snippy- not enough to draw blood but it’s almost as if he’s playing but then if you try to ignore him or get him off you he gets more powerful with his biting. Basically, he’s SUPER smart. But it’s as if he KNOWS we’re training him and he does everything in his power to reject what he’s learned. All he wants to do is be alone in the yard and pretend he’s deaf. If we try to teach him we’re in charge he fights the notion. They say dogs eventually appreciate structure and rule, he does not. I’m at a loss and I really don’t want to rehome him but I feel so drained emotionally and physically with his behavior idk what to do.", "210" ], [ "Help, does my dog have a infection?\nHello, this is my 7 month old <PERSON> and after bathing him,I noticed he was licking his upper private area for minutes non stop, I went and checked what He was licking and noticed a very noticeable red spot with a lot of red bumps, is this a infection or is this normal? Is there any treatment? Please help, thank you for your times.\nhttps://preview.redd.it/z5mqah2ikeeb1.png?width=1284&format=png&auto=webp&s=330b5a31584a2be2a309e4d9e62f72de1905273a\nhttps://preview.redd.it/8n0azh2ikeeb1.png?width=1284&format=png&auto=webp&s=ddd96333d5b4b9f4372aa72a68e4b2e33b11a317\nhttps://preview.redd.it/f3stej2ikeeb1.png?width=1284&format=png&auto=webp&s=238618ddab13fb23373f9423f851b04f89d3870a\nhttps://preview.redd.it/qhmqsg2ikeeb1.png?width=1284&format=png&auto=webp&s=64b0e22b6e2a325414a87920e10a44e1435912f9", "833" ], [ "Should I return her?\nI have an adult male small dog. Looks like a poodle, but smaller. He’s 6 years old, has a reserved personality, doesn’t like anyone disturbing his business. We had to take care of his brother for some time but my dog never accepted him.", "888" ], [ "He would get super angry, bark at him and would bite him. So we decided to not take care of the brother again. I thought this behavior was because both were males.\nThinking things would be different with a female dog, I brought a female husky puppy. Same thing is happening, and I am scared they don’t like each other ever, and one the husky is bigger they’ll fight a lot 🥲 she learned to bark and always barks at him when she gets mad..\nI don’t know if I should return her, my mom y telling me that’s the best hung to do right now …", "888" ], [ "My mom’s dog just bit me\nMy mom has a 5 year old Yorkipoo who has gone through trauma in his earlier years. When he was 2, my mom put him in a doggy camp, but he ended up getting bullied and chased by the bigger dogs. Since then, his temperament has significantly changed. Today when I accidentally dropped my candy wrapper, he snatched it from the floor before I could pick it up.", "822" ], [ "I tried to take it away from him and when I finally had the wrapped in my hand, he went completely berserk. He growled menacingly, lunged at my hands, while violently shaking and thrusting himself at my hands. I firmly scolded him “No!” I can tell that he feels guilty because he kept licking me and sat in the “down position” from me at a distance.\nI’m not sure what to do next. Is there a way to retrain his behavior? We’ve been trying to recondition him, which obviously has not been working, but he gets really aggressive around big dogs or when we do something that he doesn’t like.", "954" ], [ "My dog recently had one eye removed and I’m terrified about the remaining one\nI have a 9yo Pekignese…Beginning of this month my dog started winking and his left eye started getting gunk filled. Vets gave him antibiotics and pain killers saying it was eye ulcers but then it suddenly burst a day later and had to be removed.\nThe removal was about a week ago and now the other eye is starting to have similar gunk like the first one.\nI’m terrified and waiting for the vets in the AM.\nDoes anyone have experience with this?? Any advice or experiences would be helpful.\nI know the dog breed is prone to ulcers and he’s getting older but I’m very scared for him.\nAny one eyed dog owners? (Heavens forbid I hope it doesn’t come to this)but any blind dog owners?", "63" ], [ "HELP! Family emergency, need a temporary place for my pup to stay.\nHi everyone,\nI have an 8 month old pup who is un-spayed. (We are planning to unspay her so pls don’t come for me)\nI have a family emergency & I cannot take her with me since it’s out of states. My friends and family can’t take her since I am the one of states & some are not capable to watch her.\nI will be gone for 2 weeks and I’m unsure where to place her. Doggie hotels are way too expensive.\nNeed quick advice.", "881" ] ]

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[ [ "Wonka\nIt feels just a little hypocritical for a studio like Warner Bros. Pictures to make an anticapitalist feel-good holiday family confection, but <PERSON> direction shines through in Wonka's best moments.", "252" ], [ "There is a version of this film that goes all-out on the old Hollywood musical filmmaking style, with more memorable songs, better-done practical visual effects, and a more well-cast, magnetic central performer – but <PERSON> wisely relies on his screen charisma, and his sheer bravery to commit to such a role, to carry him through some forgettable tunes and numbers (a chocolate-making montage is definitely the film's most fun). <PERSON> is still able to wrap things up nicely towards the end in unexpectedly moving ways, with sincerity as his secret weapon. That scene at the fountain did make me cry, so while the filmmaking on display in Wonka may be flawed, its heart is definitely in the right place, and should provide a healthy dose of optimism to any family going out to the movies during the Christmas season.", "529" ], [ "Godzilla Minus One\nDelivers pretty much everything you could expect from a <PERSON> film and then some. Insanely good-looking for its less-than-$15-million budget, to an extent it puts The Creator to shame.", "909" ], [ "Refreshingly character-driven (sometimes even to the point of melodrama), with <PERSON> himself as a mesmerising excuse for action used sparingly and masterfully. No other incarnation of the titan has elicited so much dread and horror in the sheer destruction he brings. Fans will definitely hold this film as the new gold standard, and for Toho amateurs like me, it will be more than satisfying even with one plot twist too many.", "529" ], [ "The Predator\nPredator sequel as Marvel movie. Not much sign of the clever, snappy dialogue that peppered <PERSON>’s early writing career (see Lethal Weapon), but the lazy, misogynist jokes remain. No sign, either, of any meaningful level of suspense, so critical in the original and reprised to a satisfactory degree in 2010’s Predators.", "909" ], [ "Instead we get a tepid, violent, imagination-free caper in a mostly urban setting that feels a lot like a third-rate superhero-franchise entry. There’s some good chemistry between some of the leads, but the kid savant, comedy-relief hounds and over-reliance on pretty average CGI effects all contribute to a film that can’t fully commit to its darker ambitions. Cool poster though.", "796" ], [ "The Amazing Spider-Man\nI enjoyed but didn’t love <PERSON> 2002 film. The novel pairing of a director out of his comfort zone and a pair of Hollywood stars du jour seemed on the face of it to be a great match-up, but <PERSON> proved emotionally inaccessible and his lack of chemistry with <PERSON> was palpable. The physics were off in the showpiece web-slinging scenes as well, which always bugged me.\n<PERSON> reboot shares a similar setup: he’s new to action films, having directed just one prior feature (the indie hit 500 Days of Summer), and he’s picked two rising stars to play <PERSON> and his love interest. This time, the casting (and the chronology) works.", "698" ], [ "<PERSON> scruffy, awkward <PERSON> cracks both wise and goofy opposite <PERSON> blonde <PERSON>. They’re hard not to like.\n<PERSON>, like <PERSON>, takes his time with the origin story, establishing the inspiration behind the costume and the genesis of the hero’s “web-shooters”. The source material is comically contrived, but this version appears more at ease with itself, while never crossing the line into self-knowledge. And it really shines in the staging of its acrobatic sequences — instead of observing at arm’s length, there’s an immediacy and closeness to the action, the camera moving in unexpected ways while never losing its sense of position.\nI lost interest in <PERSON>’s trilogy well before the second entry was done, but I’ll be back for another round here.", "698" ], [ "Aquaman and the Lost Kingdom\nWarner Bros.’ complete lack of faith in Aquaman and the Lost Kingdom hardly seems warranted since it’s far from the worst film in the now-extinct DCEU. Just like the first, there’s campy dialogue and heavy exposition, but lots of cool world-building and visual grandeur. Sadly, it’s crystal clear the amount of studio interference and reshoots this choppily edited mess of a film has undergone, even if <PERSON>, <PERSON> (who will be dearly missed in the role) and a heaping second helping of <PERSON> manage to eventually right the ship. The film is strongest when focusing on the brotherhood between <PERSON> and <PERSON>, and in drawing parallels between them and with Atlantis’ own dark history, but everything with <PERSON> and especially <PERSON> Dr.", "698" ], [ "<PERSON> falls flat pretty much completely. Much of the sincerity and earnestness to commit to ridiculousness that made the first one so endearing is lost here in a film that tries to play it safer and ends up coming off as cookie-cutter. An occasionally entertaining romp that could and should have been much better, but then again you could say that for most of the DCEU. In that way, it’s at least an appropriate end to a head-scratching ten years of DC movies.", "698" ], [ "Executioners: The Heroic Trio 2\nIf you go into this one expecting more of the same from The Heroic Trio, you're bound to be disappointed. Executioners is a bleak, heart-rending affair, punctuated by scenes of high quality action, all wrapped up in a post nuke dystopian packaging.", "437" ], [ "There is a veritable cyclone of ideas and plotlines whizzing around this film, and in the eye of the storm stand <PERSON>, <PERSON>, and <PERSON>, all forces of nature.\nI genuinely love this film, and I don't at all consider it a step-down from The Heroic Trio. The tonal shift keeps things fresh, and the added emotional heft of the story elevates Executioners to a height beyond usual comic book superhero sequels. I also find this to be the more visually striking of the two films, with more accomplished directing and camerawork.", "529" ], [ "<PERSON>\nWish I could've liked this one more. I think there was a lot of potential for both solid comedy and heartfelt introspective drama, but the subpar goofy script and the clear lack of capable direction ultimately fumbled the ball. What should've been a really interesting examination into legacy, narcissism, and meaningful relationships instead ended up being a mediocre spy-thriller throw-away action flick featuring a bunch of big-name actors not taking themselves seriously.\nGranted, some might say that \"not taking themselves seriously\" was the entire point.", "292" ], [ "But to that I say, nay. You can be a funny and exaggerative version of yourself while simultaneously taking the material seriously. The perfect example of this is <PERSON> in Birdman. He acknowledges the real-life flaws in himself and leans into it onscreen, but he does so in a way that feels authentic and makes the audience actually care about his endeavours.\nThis just seemed like <PERSON> took his friends to a holiday paradise island and dicked around for a few weeks shooting something they wrote on a drunken afternoon.", "585" ], [ "<PERSON>\nIntroduction to Film – Ideology and Classic Hollywood Cinema\nBy all accounts, a pretty dynamite Western. <PERSON> features all the hallmarks I love about the genre – the stunning American vistas, the mysterious first-act who's whos, the buildups to gunfire, even the fake, dubbed instrument-playing – but takes considerable measures towards being a progressive genre film even if they're baby steps. Female characters are still either objects, damsels in distress or just extremely irritating one-note villains. But at least <PERSON> strong central performance sells the character of Vienna as one with more agency than your average Western dame, and the evil <PERSON> is one motivated by her own agendas and beliefs – all of which feel like revolutionary ideas in an otherwise formulaic, yet exciting and fast-paced, genre picture.", "378" ] ]

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[ [ "The Hindi title \"विध्वंस\" (transliterated as \"Vidhwans\") means \"catastrophe\" or \"destruction\". I am not too familiar with Urdu, but Google Translate says that \"Tahreek-e Khair\" means something like \"good step\", as in, a \"step in the right direction\", which is reasonably close in meaning to the title \"A Positive Change\" given in the Penguin Books collection.\nThe reason the short story has titles with drastically different meanings in Urdu and Hindi is that the Urdu version is not merely a translation of the Hindi version. Instead, it takes a completely different turn in the climax, in a way that justifies the different titles.\nIt is the Hindi version that has been translated into English on The Fresh Reads website linked in your post. At the end of the story, not only does <PERSON> die from throwing herself into the fire, the winds spread the flames all over the village and burn down the zamindar's mansion. Catastrophe has fallen upon the villagers with <PERSON>'s death, and especially upon the zamindar who gave her so much grief.\nIn the Urdu version, the consequences of <PERSON> jumping into the fire are dramatically altered. Here, the zamindar instinctively jumps in to pull <PERSON> out, at great risk to himself.", "829" ], [ "He manages to save her life, and he even nurses her back to health in his mansion. When <PERSON> asks him why he risked his life for an old woman such as herself, he answers:\n[...] I didn't care what I was doing and why. It was as though I had lost my senses. Everything happened on its own. God wanted to save me from disgrace. What else?\nTaken from the Urdu translation by <PERSON>, published in Premchand: the complete short stories, vol. 2, Penguin Books, 2017.\nIn this version, the zamindar seems to have had a genuine change of heart through <PERSON>'s impulsive decision to jump into the fire; hence, the title \"A Positive Change\".\nSo, in this case the difference in the titles is not due to any subtle differences between the two languages, but in the changes made to the story itself.", "417" ], [ "Detailed publication information regarding <PERSON>'s short stories—along with valuable comments on the differences between the Urdu and Hindi versions—is available in the \"Notes\" at the end of each of the four volumes of Premchand: the complete short stories (2017), edited by <PERSON> and published by Penguin Books. From the foreword by <PERSON>:\nIt is now possible to say with certainty which of the two versions of the story was first published, and in the great majority of the cases it is clear that the version first published was also the first to be written.\nHe goes on to say:\nThough the early translations from Urdu into Hindi were mostly done by <PERSON> himself, we have firm evidence, for example, that the final manuscript of the Hindi Rangbhumi was translated into Urdu by another person who demanded a rate that <PERSON> thought to be exorbitant. In any case, all his works throughout his life in both Hindi and Urdu were published under <PERSON>'s own name with no mention of a translator and are treated by the common reader as being equally original.\nA sample entry from the \"Notes\" section, when there are no additional comments regarding differences between the Urdu and Hindi versions, is as follows (taken for the short story This Is My Homeland, translated into English from Urdu for volume 1 by <PERSON>):\nFirst published in Urdu with the title 'Yehi Mera Watan Hai' in the Urdu anthology, Soz-e Watan (1908). Now available in Kulliyaat-e Premchand 9 (2000). It was published in Hindi with the title 'Yehi Meri Matribhumi Hai' in Prem Prasun (1924).\nThe bare bones of this information has been compiled into the table below for all the stories in this collection. The entry for the year is bolded if it is for the version published first.\n| S.No. | Title in English | Title in Urdu | Year | Title in Hindi | Year | | ----: | ---------------- | ------------- | ---: | -------------- | ---: | | 1. | Love for the World and Patriotism | Ishq Duniya aur Hubb-e Watan | 1908 | Sansarik Prem aur Desh Prem | 1961 | | 2. | The Rarest Pearl in the World | Duniya ka Sab Se Anmol Ratan | 1908 | Duniya ka Sab Se Anmol Ratan | 1961 | | 3. | Sheikh <PERSON> | Sheikh <PERSON> | 1908 | Sheikh <PERSON> | 1961 | | 4. | Sorrow's Reward | Sila-e Maatam | 1908 | <PERSON> | 1961 | | 5. | This Is My Homeland | Yehi Mera Watan Hai | 1908 | Yehi Meri Matribhumi Hai | 1924 | | 6. | Dara Shikoh's Durbar | Dara Shikoh ka Darbar | 1908 | Transliterated | 1988 | | 7.", "146" ], [ "| The Pyre of Sin | Atishkada-e Gunaah\nGunaah ka Agankund | 1910\n1930 | <PERSON> | 1917 | | 8. | The Travels of a Dervish | Sair-e Dervish | 1910 | <PERSON> | 1924 | | 9. | A Hunt | <PERSON> | 1910 | <PERSON> | 1931 | | 10. | Rani Sarandha | Rani Sarandha | 1910 | Rani Sarandha | 1917 | | 11. | Selfless Benefactor | <PERSON> | 1910 | <PERSON> | 1962 | | 12. | A Well-bred Daughter | Badey Ghar ki Beti | 1910 | <PERSON> | 1910 | | 13. | The Sword of Vikramaditya | <PERSON> | 1911 | <PERSON> | 1962 | | 14. | A Strange Revenge | Karishma-e Intiqaam | 1911 | <PERSON> | 1979 | | 15. | From Both Sides | <PERSON> | 1911 | <PERSON> | 1976 | | 16. | <PERSON> | <PERSON> | 1911 | <PERSON> | 1917 | | 17. | The Elder Sister | <PERSON> | 1911 | <PERSON> | 1980 | | 18. | The Fear of Dishonour | <PERSON> | 1911 | <PERSON> | 1988 | | 19. | The Desired Destination | <PERSON> | 1911 | <PERSON> | 1962 | | 20. | A Poor Woman's Cry | <PERSON>-kas | 1911 | <PERSON> | 1918 | | 21.", "553" ], [ "To expand on <PERSON> answer and fill in the details from the article and journal, which is now freely available on JSTOR (you do need to create an account though). <PERSON> is the author and publisher of the journal.\n<PERSON> in his article makes a very valid point that the location exists only in <PERSON>'s mind - there are many logical inconsistencies in the story, such as Gormenghast being isolated almost entirely from the world, but still having things like massive libraries (e.g. Lord <PERSON>'s), firearms, a globe (\"Cane Slypate thursday\"), Dr <PERSON>'s sister <PERSON> reads lady's journals for the latest fashions etc., and not least <PERSON> barking\n\"Name an Isthmus\"\nwhen awakened from his dozing in front of his class; an isthmus being something that Gormenghast doesn't have. In addition the school boasts a chemistry teacher - such an esoteric field being difficult to imagine being created in isolation from the rest of the world.\nHaving seen these exceptions <PERSON> mentions Countess <PERSON> stating\n\"There is nowhere else\"\nAs well, a general sense of isolation and insularity is prevalent in the books.", "573" ], [ "The isolation of Gormenghast is a major feature of the story with no mention of any other location outside of the castles and vast forests that surround it.\n<PERSON> then goes on to speculate that whether intentional or not, the country where <PERSON> grew up, China, was, until around the time of <PERSON>'s birth, isolated much as Gormenghast is, and contains climes similar to those of Gormenghast. To quote a significant paragraph of the article:\nWhether by accident or design, it happens that Gormenghast is geographically situated in a manner that recalls China: “the wastelands” to the north correspond to the Gobi desert and Mongolia, there is a shallow sea to the east and more sea to the south, while to the west the “knuckles of endless rock” correspond to the Himalayas and the Sinkiang. Tientsin, where <PERSON> spent most of the first ten years of his life is close enough to the Gobi desert to suffer from sandstorms; significantly, the Gulf of Chihli, which lies but forty miles to the east of Tientsin, is to all intents and purposes “tideless”, being an enclosed coastal sea, little more than a large bay of the Yellow Sea. Its coast is flat and swampy with “grey salt marshes” created by the alluvial deposits of the major rivers flowing into it. So if I were pushed to place Gormenghast on the map of the world, I should point to Tientsin, or of course to Peking, which lies less than 80 miles to the north-west of Tientsin.\nThus China may be a (perhaps subconscious) influence on the story and is one likely location for Gormenghast.", "495" ], [ "<PERSON> took liberties in everything and never backed down\n<PERSON> was quite the special character. He considered it a translator's liberty and duty to reinterpret any work and improve it in the translation, and he took similar liberties in interpretting the original author's inspirations as well as in the way he portrayed people in general.\n<PERSON> did not appreciate any attempts to find allegories in The Lord of the Rings to historical or contemporary people or events. The reason why events transpire in his world is solely contained within the world itself, not necessitated by some action in the real world. Furthermore, both <PERSON> and <PERSON> were philologists, and language was very imporant to <PERSON>, and The Lord of the Rings is written in a style similar to the old Icelandic tales.\nI do not know if <PERSON> was especially curious in seeing how a philologist in Nordic languages would translate his work, or if he simply took interest in all translations (only the Dutch translation came before the Swedish, and <PERSON> criticised that one as well), but over a year before the publishing of Härskarringen, <PERSON> expresses concerns about Ohlmarks translation efforts. Three years later, he wrote this letter to his publisher after having read the Swedish foreword to <PERSON>.\nThe previous letter also criticises Ohlmarks, but in this case I suspect <PERSON> made a mistake as well.", "169" ], [ "<PERSON> knew some Swedish, but not a lot. I do not have <PERSON>' translation at hand, but since \"fjäder\" can mean both \"feather\" and \"spring\", I strongly suspect <PERSON> translated \"leathery\" to \"fjädrande\" (\"springy\"), which <PERSON> mistranslated back to \"feathery\". These problems with reverse translation only served to aggravate the issue.\nMeanwhile, <PERSON> basked in the attention and praise the translation of the books brought him, and took to styling himself as one of the foremost experts in <PERSON> impervious to criticism. He continued to peddle his interpretations of the books despite all denials and sometimes even his own admittance that they were far-fetched. Eventually, he would be forbidden from translating Silmarillion into Swedish (I haven't found any definitive source on whether it was <PERSON> or <PERSON> who made the decision), which <PERSON> took as a grave insult.\nEventually, <PERSON> would gradually become enemies with everyone associated with <PERSON>, which culminated in the book Tolkien och den svarta magin (\"Tolkien and the Black Magic\", 1982) in which he accuses <PERSON> of forgery, the <PERSON> estate of being a money-grubbing mafia and the different <PERSON> societies around the world of being satanic cults which do the mafia's dirty business while engaging in orgies and ritual murder.", "169" ], [ "It's part of the story of \"The Devil with the Three Golden Hairs\" found in <PERSON>'s collection of folktales.\nYou can find a translation of it with the parallel German text here.\nThe basic synopsis is that the <PERSON> (<PERSON>-child) is prophesied to marry the king's daughter, to the latter's chagrin. The tries to get rid of the kid by having him go retrieve three golden hairs from the Devil's head. In doing so, he converses with three individuals who need help, including a ferryman who is forced to row and can never be free. Once he gets to Hell...\n...the Devil was not at home, but his grandmother was sitting in a large arm-chair. \"What do you want?\" said she to him, but she did not look so very wicked. \"I should like to have three golden hairs from the devil's head,\" answered he, \"else I cannot keep my wife.\"\nShe decides to help him out.", "351" ], [ "While the Devil was sleeping, she plucked a hair out and told him one of her dreams. (On Wikipedia it says the Devil had the dreams, but the English and German I provided agree it's the grandmother's dreams.) In one of the dreams, she says an ferryman cannot be freed, and the Devil replies:\n\"What was the dream, then?\" asked he [=the devil], and was quite curious. \"I dreamt of a ferry-man who complained that he must always ferry from one side to the other, and was never released. What is the cause of it?\" - \"Ah! the fool,\" answered the devil; \"when any one comes and wants to go across he must put the oar in his hand, and the other man will have to ferry and he will be free.\"\nThe story ends with the <PERSON> telling this to the ferryman and then tricking the king into taking the oars:\nThe greedy King set out in all haste, and when he came to the river he beckoned to the ferry-man to put him across. The ferry-man came and bade him get in, and when they got to the other shore he put the oar in his hand and sprang out. But from this time forth the King had to ferry, as a punishment for his sins. Perhaps he is ferrying still? If he is, it is because no one has taken the oar from him.", "54" ], [ "In the original books, no, a sister is never mentioned. However, in a very roundabout way, the seeds of her origin are contained within the books.\nThe only sibling mentioned in <PERSON>'s books is <PERSON>'s brother <PERSON>, who appears in \"The Adventure of the Greek Interpreter\", \"The Final Problem\", and \"The Adventure of the Bruce-Partington Plans\" and is mentioned in \"The Adventure of the Empty House\". In the books he appears as much the same character depicted in the TV series - a high up government official who is involved in many aspects of government policy.\nThe closest mention to '<PERSON>' (the sister's name in the TV show) comes in the story \"His Last Bow\", published in 1917 (set in 1914). The story ends with <PERSON>' addressing his assistant Doctor <PERSON> on the eve of the First World War:\n\"There's an east wind coming, <PERSON>.\"\n\"I think not, <PERSON>. It is very warm.\"\n\"Good old <PERSON>! You are the one fixed point in a changing age. There's an east wind coming all the same, such a wind as never blew on England yet. It will be cold and bitter, <PERSON>, and a good many of us may wither before its blast.", "247" ], [ "But it's God's own wind none the less, and a cleaner, better, stronger land will lie in the sunshine when the storm has cleared.\"\nIn Greek mythology, <PERSON> was the god of the east wind, one of the four directional Anemoi, or Wind-Gods. In the books, the 'east wind' was used as a metaphor for the destruction that WWI would bring. It seems that in the TV show, it was personified as '<PERSON>', another east wind bringing destruction of a similar nature.\nThe connection is also alluded to in the closing scenes of 'The Lying Detective' (4x02), where <PERSON> begins to realise that his therapist is not who she seems:\nJ: Who are you?\nE: Isn't it obvious? Haven't you guessed? I'm <PERSON>.\nJ: <PERSON>?\nE: Silly name, isn't it? Greek. Means \"the east wind\". My parents loved silly names, like <PERSON>... or <PERSON>... or <PERSON>.\nE: Oh, look at him. Didn't it ever occur to you, not even once, that <PERSON>'s secret brother might just be <PERSON>'s secret sister?", "660" ], [ "The question required that we reference instances of time travel that are not simply \"a misperception of the amount of time that passed\". One could argue that King <PERSON>'s story in the Mahabharata was such a misperception. Others might argue differently, but here's an alternative answer for the first group:\nAlthough not 2000 years old, there are examples from before The Time Machine (1895) that involve actually jumping from one time to another.\nA Connecticut Yankee in King Arthur's Court (1889) by <PERSON>\nThis is the first one I thought of. Partial summary from Wikipedia:\nIn the book, a Yankee engineer from Connecticut is accidentally transported back in time to the court of <PERSON>, where he fools the inhabitants of that time into thinking he is a magician—and soon uses his knowledge of modern technology to become a \"magician\" in earnest, stunning the English of the Early Middle Ages with such feats as demolitions, fireworks and the shoring up of a holy well.\nThis is very clearly time travel. The Yankee was in modern times, then he was in the past.\nThe Chronic Argonauts (1888) by <PERSON>\nThis is a short story precursor to the Time Machine. Partial summary from Wikipedia:\nA third-person narrator describes the arrival of a mysterious inventor to the peaceful Welsh town of Llyddwdd. Dr. <PERSON> takes up residence in a house neglected after the deaths of its former inhabitants. The simple rural folk become apprehensive about <PERSON>'s activities in the house and suspect him of witchcraft. ...", "54" ], [ "reveals that <PERSON> is an \"Anachronic Man\" whose genius drives him to seek out a time more suited to his abilities.\nI haven't read the story myself, but according to @Hypnosifl, the story describes the travel as \"Locomotion along lines of duration\". This might be some kind of continuous movement, but considering how it's going backwards it would be hard to characterize it as a misperception of the passage of time.\nThe Clock that Went Backward (1881) by <PERSON>\nThis is a short story that Wikipedia claims is \"the first instance of using a time machine for time travel, and the first instance of a temporal paradox in fiction\". The citation for this claim links to a book by <PERSON> called Time Machines: Time Travel in Physics, Metaphysics, and Science Fiction which contains a review of time travel in fiction. It describes the time travel device like so:\nThe mechanism of <PERSON>'s time machine, an eight-foot-high, sixteenth-century Dutch clock, is quite simplistic, even bordering on fantasy. It is simply stated that if the clock runs backward, then it travels backward in time - a rather disappointing explanation.\nLike the Chronic Argonauts, this appears to be a continuous motion backwards through time. According to @Hypnosifl, the story states that\nThe hands were whirling around the dial from right to left with inconceivable rapidity. In this whirl we ourselves seemed to be borne along. Eternities seemed to contract into minutes while lifetimes were thrown off at every tick.\nAgain, though, this is movement backwards. As this is movement through time in a different direction, rather than simply at a different speed, it seems to be a clear example of time travel.\nThat may be the earliest use of a device to travel in time, but in a Wikipedia article called Time Travel, there is a section on the history of the time travel concept, in which there are multiple possible examples earlier than 1881. The earliest of those examples which looks to me to be clearly not a dream or vision, and not someone simply sleeping into a later time <PERSON> style, is from 1836.\nIn The Forebears of Kalimeros: Alexander, son of Philip of Macedon (1836), by <PERSON>\nthe narrator rides to ancient Greece on a hippogriff, meets <PERSON>, and goes on a voyage with <PERSON> before returning to the 19th century (Wikipedia)\nIn my research, I ran across numerous blogs referring to this as the first Russian science fiction novel, and as the first novel using time travel. These aren't exactly authoritative sources, though.", "54" ], [ "What does 0.2 tenths of the population mean?\nIn <PERSON> translation of <PERSON> (Russian: Евге́ний Замя́тин) dystopian novel We (1921) (Russian: Мы), there is a passage of text, referring to population, which confused me, in Record2 5 (Square, Rulers of the World, Pleasant and Useful Function).\nThe excerpt is as follows:\nBut in the year 35 before the founding of OneState our present petroleum food was invented. True, only 0.2 of the world's population survived. On the other hand, when it was cleansed of a thousand years of filth, how bright the face of the earth became! And what is more, the zero point two tenths who survived . . .", "840" ], [ "tasted earthly bliss in the granaries of OneState.\n—We, Record 5 (bold formatting for emphasis done by yours truly)\nTypically, in the decimal system, decimals are used to express portions with relation to 1 being the whole (like 100%), and 0 being the nothing (like 0%), such that 0.2 represents 20%, of 1/5, or a fifth, or 2/10, or two tenths.\nIn the sentence,\nTrue, only 0.2 of the world's population survived.\nI read this to mean \"only 20% (or two tenths) of the world's population survived\". However, this seems to clash with one of the following sentences which reads:\nAnd what is more, the zero point two tenths who survived . . . tasted earthly bliss in the granaries of OneState.\n\"zero point two tenths\" is two hundredths, or 2/100, or 0.02, or 2%, as a result of evaluating 0.2 of a tenth, or 0.1 * 0.2 = 0.02 – or at least that's my reading of it.\nWhy do these two references to the population mentioned in the same paragraph differ? Which one is correct? Is this a case of poor translation? Or, am I incorrect in my reading, and are they actually not different values – if so, what does each value mean?\n1: <PERSON> is the author of several works on the Russian poet <PERSON>. He is editor of The Portable Twentieth-Century Russian Reader, which contains his translation of <PERSON>'s short story \"The Cave\", and of <PERSON> novel Envy.\n2: The novel uses \"record\" as a diegetic stand-in for the more typical \"chapter\".", "321" ] ]

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[ [ "How to Make a Wood Carved Clock\nIntroduction: How to Make a Wood Carved Clock\nIn this Instructable I will be making a wood carved clock, with a wood spirit's (also known as an old man of the woods) face.\nSome wood carving terminology I will be using:\nA Carving burr - This is the bit that goes in the end of your rotary tool, that actually carves away the wood. There are lots of different brands, but I recommend Kutzall burrs.\nFeathering away - This means if you have cut a valley in the wood, you smooth out the transition from the valley to flat wood.\nIn the first steps I kept the carving as one large log, but if you want to cut a slab to carve straight away, skip to step 6, and then back to step 1.\nSupplies\nTools:\n* A rotary tool, sometimes known as a Dremel.\n* Carving bits/burrs.\n* A drill and drill bit.\n* Orbital sander (optional, but makes sanding much faster), or sandpaper.\nOther supplies:\n* A log or piece of wood.\n* A pencil or pen.\n* Clock module - these can be purchased off an online website like Amazon or e-bay.\n* Epoxy (this is optional, but can be useful for filling cracks).\n* Varnish (this is optional, but it makes the finished carving look much more glossy).\nStep 1: Selecting a Log\nThere will probably be lots of spare wood around you if you or someone you know has a firewood store, or you could carve a piece of store bought wood if you wanted.\nI selected a log that was fairly circular and was a relatively soft type of wood.\nI sanded the top of the log down a bit with an orbital sander, this is an optional step, but makes drawing on the design easier.\nStep 2: Drawing the Base Design\nFirst mark the approximate centre of the log, and then find the direct line across the log that splits the log into two equal parts, or as near as possible to it. This means that the face will not look lop-sided due to the shape of the log.\nMark the place you want your mouth to be, which is where the clock will be coming out of, and place the centre of the clock over this spot. Draw around the outside of the clock module, this is the area that will be recessed out from behind, so you will not be able to carve too deep in this area, or else you will penetrate through and create a hole.\nDraw a line where the eyebrows will go, the eyes will be underneath this line.\nNext draw a line where the base of the nose will be, in the next step we will draw the nose.\nThe eyes will be drawn on later, when the rest of the carving is started, to make it easier to plan out what the eyes are going to look like relative to the whole face.\nStep 3: Drawing the Moustache and Nose\nDraw the outside of the nose by drawing diagonal lines to create two triangles, one on each side of the nose.", "431" ], [ "Now do the same thing but upside down, joining the lines up with other ones.\nFor the moustache, draw two sweeping lines, starting from the bottom of the nose and the top of the mouth and joining them up further down the face to create a moustache. Repeat this process for the other side and tweak the lines and change them until they look even. This is why you draw the lines with a pencil, to allow for changes.\nIf you cannot get the moustache to look even, you can trace one half like I did. If you draw one half of the moustache, it is fairly simple to trace it on to the other half, and bear in mind that you can adjust the moustache while you are carving.\nStep 4: Carving the Outline of the Eyes and Nose\nTo carve the outline of the eyes and nose you carve around the outside of the lines we drew for the nose and carve below the line that we drew for the eyebrows.\nAt the moment you are just carving a valley in the wood, you can take a few passes to get the depth right if you need to, gradually getting deeper and deeper into the wood.\nThe next step is to 'feather away' the wood, by holding the carving burr at an angle to the wood, this will smooth out the transition from the valley to flat wood.\nFeather away the wood that is on the outside of the valley you just carved, this will raise the nose out of the face and carve the eyes deeper.\nStep 5: Carving the Outline of the Moustache\nTo carve the outline of the moustache you repeat the steps for the eyes and nose.", "36" ], [ "Cool 3D Cheese Carving\nIntroduction: Cool 3D Cheese Carving\nHave you ever wanted something in your kitchen that is delicious, but more aesthetically pleasing than just a block of smoked cheese?\nRecently, I decided that the looks of my favourite cheese (smoked cheese) should equal its taste (which is incredible), so I set out to find a way to make a block of smoked cheese look more attractive. And I found it!\nIn this Instructable, I will show you two methods of making cool 3D cheese carvings, that not only taste delicious, but also look good. The first method using a knife to carve the cheese is steps 1 - 4, and the second method using a cookie cutter is steps 5 - 7.\nSupplies\nThe supplies you will need for this Instructable:\n* A knife (preferably with a thin blade and a sharp tip). I recommend the brand kitchen devils, they can be purchased off an online website like amazon or e-bay.\n* Scissors\n* Tape\n* A printout of a picture of your choice (or if you do not have a printer you can just draw a picture freehand).\n* A chopping board\n* A cookie cutter of your choice\n* Smoked cheese\nStep 1: Deciding Upon Your Design\nThis is the first method that allows more choices of designs, but is harder to carve.\nIf you do not have a printer, then you can draw/mark a picture/image on to the cheese and skip to step 3. It is easier for you to carve the shape if you just have a silhouette of the object you plan to carve. Just remember, the more detailed the design, the harder it will be to carve.\nIf you have a printer, the first step you need to do is to find a picture/image that you want to carve on to the cheese, and print it off at the size you want your carving to be on the cheese.\nThen trim down the edges of the paper to slightly larger than the size of the cheese. You will see why you need to do this in the next step.\nStep 2: Securing Your Design to the Cheese\nTape the picture you wish to carve over the top of the cheese.", "294" ], [ "This will allow you to outline the shape with a knife later, whilst keeping it in place.\nIt does not really matter what tape you use, as it is only touching the rind of the cheese, and it will just peel off later.\nStep 3: Carving the Outline\nStart outlining the shape of your picture with a knife, gradually working your way around the design. If you use a knife with a thin blade and a sharp tip, it will be easier for you to carve the small details. You do not need to go all the way through the cheese on the first pass, it may be easier for you to gradually cut all the way through with several passes of the knife.\nDon't worry if the outline looks a bit messy at this stage, because you can neaten it up later. You can mess up the excess material around the edge of your design as much as you want whilst cutting out your design, because it will not be part of the final result.\nStep 4: Separating the Design and Neatening It Up\nNow comes the fun part, when you can see your design coming together!\nCut slices of excess cheese away from the outside of your design, as this is easier than trying to remove all of it in one piece. Now trim around the outside of your piece, neatening up the edges of your design.\nStep 5: The Second Method, Using a Cookie Cutter\nThis is the second method, which is easier, quicker, and will achieve the best end results. However, you are limited to what cookie cutters you possess, whereas with the first method you can carve an unlimited number of designs.\nI suggest purchasing a set of cookie cutters online if you are getting serious about cheese carving. Just make sure they are the right size for your cheese! I have chosen a gingerbread man, because the size of the cheese means that the rind around the edge will make it look like he has shoes!\nStep 6: Carving Your Design\nOnce you have positioned your cookie cutter to your satisfaction, you can apply force evenly on the top of the cookie cutter until the cheese has been fully cut through and you are left with a clean outline of the cookie cutter.\nStep 7: Separating Your Design\nWhen you are sure that the cookie cutter has completely cut through the cheese, gently pull on the surplus material around the edge of your design, and it should separate cleanly.\nWhen you have separated the outside material from your design, push on the cheese inside the cookie cutter whilst pulling on the top of the cookie cutter, and with a little force it should slide out cleanly.\nStep 8: Enjoying the Fruits of Your Labour!", "122" ], [ "Modify a Crate Into a Bedside Table\nIntroduction: Modify a Crate Into a Bedside Table\nThe main point of this project is to feature the create in it's original state, but modify it to function as a bedside table. Therefore, finding a crate that you like the look of is essential. Other than the crate, I tried to use only things that I had as scrap from other projects. This is a simple fun project that can be completed in an afternoon!\nMaterials\n* Crate - I found an old '2 Way' pop crate, which was 11.5\" x 19\" x 12\", but any size will do.\n* Scrap wood - I mostly used 1\" x 2\" scraps from another project. I also needed a piece of wood to fill in where the crate didn't have a board, and used a scrap piece of plywood for that.\n* Nails or screws\n* Steel strapping - this is optional. I wanted my crate to sit directly on the supports without a cross piece of wood (but wood would also work).\n* Paint or stain\nTools\n* Measuring tape\n* Hammer or drill\n* Saw (mitre saw is handy, but you can also hand cut)\n* Sanding block\n* Paintbrush\nStep 1: Measurements and Cuts\nThis step will probably take you the longest time of the whole project, as you need to decide the size of your table.\nStand the crate on its side and decide how high you want the finished product to stand.\nThe height of my crate standing on its side was 12 inches, and I wanted the finished product to be 24 inches high. That made it easy for me because I could measure how long the legs needed to be against the crate, which was the same height as I wanted. I placed my piece of wood across the crate and copied the angle onto the wood using a square.", "431" ], [ "If your legs will be a different height than your crate, it would be easiest to draw out a square on a piece of large scrap paper with the same height and width of the legs that you want, then measure from there.\nCut 4 pieces of scrap wood the same length (20.5 inches for me), with the same angles (55 degrees, in my case).\nMeasure the width of the crate as well, and cut 3 support pieces of wood the same length (My crate was 11.5 inches, but I cut 11 inches so that they were inset a little bit).\nAn extra step here for me was that I wanted to fill the hole at the bottom of my crate, so I found a piece of plywood the same width as the crate wood, and measured and cut it to size.\nMake sure to sand all your pieces of wood.\nStep 2: Assembly\nStart by putting nails through the middle of each set of the long table legs, making sure that the angle is correctly positioned. Now you have two X shapes.\nThen use either wood or strapping to fix the X shapes in place along the top - these will be just less than the same length as your crate (in my case 18 inches, as my crate was 19 inches). You can see in the picture that I used a combination of both wood and strapping as the wood was to fill the hole in the back of the crate. Using strapping in the front made it so that the legs sat flush against the crate.\nNow nail the support pieces about 3 inches up from the ends of the crates. These will fix the X shaped legs to one another. I ended up using one additional support piece under the top of the crate, you can see that in the second picture.\nI nailed it all together and painted it black with some cabinet paint I had left over.\nThe final step is to fix the legs onto the crate. I wanted to preserve the crate as much as possible, so didn't put too many nails into it. I ended up just using one nail that fixed the middle support piece through the strapping and into the crate. Otherwise, I am relying on the weight of the crate to keep it in place.\nAnd voila! A super chic little bedside table!", "959" ], [ "My First Ever Router Table!\nIntroduction: My First Ever Router Table!\nThis project has been inspired by Woodsmith Magazine. By far I think, is one of the best designs over the interweb, though I am not going to share exact dimensions, I want you to have a rough idea of what this design features so that you can make your own.\nI have a YouTube video that makes things way clearer and exciting.\nSupplies\n+Lumber (pine)\n+Router\n+Woodglue\n+3/8\" bolts, washers and nuts\n+Knobs\n+Outlet switch\nStep 1: Legs and Stretchers\nTo make the frame start by cutting half laps one on top and one on bottom. Do that by cutting on your table saw and remember that there are four legs and three stretchers, all of them made out of 2x4\"s. After that glue them forming two frames that are solid enough to stand alone, you can plane them if you want everything to sit flush.\nStep 2: Structure Assembly\nOnce you have two frames, make a template to drill the holes so that you can pass the bolt through and join the legs and stretchers, use a ratchet to adjust them and right after that, attach the angle brackets to fasten the table top.\nStep 3: Table Top\nI made the table top out of two tops that were prefab at the homecenter and glue them together to form a reliable top that is dead flat.\nThen I rounded the corners with a template to trace, rough cut with my jigsaw and flush trim with my router.\nStep 4: Insert\nThe insert is the part to attach your router to the main table.", "599" ], [ "I made this one out of acrylic because it is strong and transparent. Simply cut it to final depth and mark the position on the table top with a marking gauge. Drill 1\" holes for your fingers to pass through and holes to pass the screws for the router base.\nStep 5: Table Top Hole\nYou'll need to make a hole to sit the insert and router through. Drill a 1\" hole through the table top and rough cut the shaoe with a jigsaw, then use some straight edges to flush trim everything, including that you'll have to route a recess of the thickness of the insert to sit flush.\nStep 6: Groove and Safety Accesory\nUse your flush trim bit to route a groove so that you can slide jigs and sliders later. A safety accesory will prevent your hand from ever touching the bit, so temporarily clamp a piece of lumber to use it as a fence, and route two slots for height adjustment in a 1/2\" board, once done, use a template to make an acrylic semi-circle and finally screw them together.\nStep 7: Fence and T-Track\nRip cut two pieces to make the fence, using your table saw, cut some sort of mortises to pass the bolts for the sliders through and then attach both pieces.\nOn top of the fence the design features a T-Track that is used to place the hand safety device, feather boards and other type of jigs, to make it cut two identical boards route a 1/2\" groove and then make half a T with the table saw, then glue both of them together, and you have a T-Track, glue and clamp it on top of the fence and trim the excess.\nFinally cut an opening for the bit to pass through using the table saw.\nStep 8: Clamps and Knobs\nI made my own knobs with plywood, but you can purchase them.\nIf you want to DIY them, laser cut the template attached and stick it to the plywood with double-sided tape, then use your router table to free hand the shape using a flush trim bit with a bearing on top.\nMake a clamp of the thickness of the fence and drill a 3/8\" hole to pass a bolt through, the importance of making a kerf in it is to align it with the fence and hold it firmly.\nRepeat this with the knobs for the back as well and clamp everything to the table top.\nYou now have a router table.", "599" ], [ "Scrapwood Creatures\nIntroduction: Scrapwood Creatures\nMy wife always tells me I keep too much stuff that we don't need. Cardboard boxes, paper, left-over pieces of wood. In my mind there is always some creative future purpose for these items and I can't bring myself to throw them away.\nAlthough this instructable shows you how to make one of the Scrapwood Creatures that currently decorate our garden, it is meant to be read more like an 'inspirable' than an instructable. Since everyone has other 'trash' lying around I will not give specific measurements for the build. I will show you ways to transform random bits of scrapwood into fun and durable garden decoration.\nSupplies\nThe supplies you need will depend on the items you choose to work with. To make the Scrapwood Creature in this example see if you can find the following:\n- a left-over piece of a 2x2 beam, preferably cut at a slight angle\n- a random wooden plank cut-off about the same width as the 2x2 beam\n- a couple of sturdy sticks or wooden skewers\n- a popsicle stick\n- a wooden dowel\n- 2 big screws, about twice as long as the thickness of the plank cut-off\n- 2 small screws\nThe tools you need:\n- drill with drill bits (small to large)\n- screw drill bits or screwdriver(s)\n- I used a hex key / Allen key to screw in the IKEA screws I chose for the eyes\n- box cutter or other craft knife\n- sand paper\nOptional:\n- wood glue\n- extra piece of wood or cutting board to protect your workspace\nStep 1: Preparation\nFor the creature in this example it works really well to have a bitof wood cut off at an angle. If you only have straight pieces you can cut a longer piece in half at an angle so you can make 2 of these animals.\nScrapwood and cut-offs are likely to have rough edges and maybe even have old nails or screws in them. Choose your materials and remove any old hardware to avoid damage to your drill bits. Get some sandpaper and smooth the edges.\nIn our case the Scrapwood Creatures occupy the front garden and draw the attention of the neighbourhood's kids so I try to make the creatures as child-safe as possible.\nStep 2: Holes for the Legs and Tail\nPut the 2x2 cut-off down with the longer side facing up. Get a drill bit the same diameter as the sticks you will be using for the legs. Drill four holes about 1/2 inch deep, depending on the size and shape of your material.\nSand the holes' edges and test get one of the sticks to make sure they fit snugly in the holes.\nPlace the 2x2 cut-off on the angled side to have the square end facing up. Get a drill bit that matches the size of the dowel and drill a hole in the center. If you drill straight down the tail will be at a downward angle.", "431" ], [ "Try to fit the dowel to make sure it fits.\nStep 3: Creating the Mouth\nGet the bit of plank cut-off and put it upright on your workspace. Check both sides and see what side looks better and use this as the top. Use the bottom for the mouth.\nTo make the mouth I used a thin drill bit roughly the thickness of the popsicle stick I had. I drilled the first hole a little off to the side. Then I measured the width of the stick and drilled the second hole to mark the size (see picture). I then drilled some more holes in between and drilled at an angle to create a slot wide enough for the popsicle stick to fit in. Try fitting in the popsicle stick and drill deeper if necessary.\nDepending on the depth of the slot, cut off a piece of the popsicle stick to use as a tongue coming out of the mouth. The popsicle stick I used just happened to be stained from a fruity icecream which was perfect for a tongue.\nStep 4: Adding Ears And/or Horns\nI chose to add some extra bits to the top of the head using two smaller thick screws. You can put these either on the top or the sides of the head, whichever you like best. Get a drill bit that matches the screws you will be using and drill two holes where you want the ears or horns to go.\nDepending on the screws you use, drill down so the screws will not split the wood. When screwing in the screws, make sure they are fixed in place, but aren't screwed all the way in. Leaving them sticking out gives your creature a bit more character ;)\nTip: use screws that you wouldn't normally use for other projects. I have a ton of extra IKEA hardware that is perfect for this.", "276" ], [ "Designing a Segmented Vessel\nIntroduction: Designing a Segmented Vessel\nIn this article, I will explain how to make a set of plans to create a segmented Vessel.\nI want to thank my good friend and mentor, <PERSON> from Knox City Texas for providing the information and encouragement for this project. Items in quotation marks are taken directly from a paper written by <PERSON>.\nSupplies\nThe only tools you will need are a pencil, an eraser, a ruler and a sheet of paper large enough to create a full scale model of what you want.\nIn addition I like to use a digital caliper.\nStep 1: Basic Information Used in Segmented Turning\nJust a couple basic terms that segmented turners use.\nThe length is how long the back edge of the segment is.\nThe Width is the board width when you start cutting.\nThe thickness is how thick your ring will be.\nI know it is pretty basic, but it is easy to get the thickness and width mixed up.\nStep 2: Getting Started\nThe first thing you need to do is decide what you want to make.\nI suggest you start with something small.\nThe video link is to a YouTube video that I made covering all aspects of how I Design and Build a Segmented Vessel.\nStep 3: The Initial Layout\nBegin by drawing a vertical line in the center of your paper a couple inches longer than the height of your vessel.\nStep 4: Setting Up You Grid\nAfter that, draw horizontal lines to correspond with the thickness and number of layers you have in your vessel.\nStep 5: Initial Sketch\nSketch the outer edge of your vessel. I am usually pretty generous with the thickness of the wall.\nYou can always make an eighth inch wall from a quarter inch wall, It's pretty hard to go the other way.\nStep 6: Finding the Variables to Use in the Formulas\nDraw vertical lines on both sides of the wall.", "110" ], [ "When first starting out, I suggest you add a bit extra.\nStep 7: Finding the Measurements of Each Ring\nYou can use a ruler to measure the width of the segments in that ring. The bottom one can be skipped if you plan on using a solid piece of wood for the bottom of your vessel.\nStep 8: My Way of Measuring\nI prefer using decimals instead of fractions when using formulas.\nTo find the outside radius of your vessel (R_out), measure from the center line to the outer line of the drawing.\nTo find the inside radius, (R_in) measure from the center line to the inner line of the drawing.\nStep 9: The Variables That I Use in the Formulas\n(R_in) = Inside Radius of the ring.\n(R_out) = Outside Radius of the ring.\n(C) = Circumference of the ring.\n(N) = Number of segments in each ring.\n(W) = Width of the segments in that ring.\n(L) = Length of the segments in that ring.\n(A) = Segment angle.\n(CA) = Segment cut angle.\n(BL) = Board length. This is the minimum length of wood needed to cut the segments in that ring.\nStep 10: Finding the Circumference of Our Rings\nC = 2π(R_out)\nRing 1 (R_out) is 4.8 inches. Circumference of ring 1 would be C=2(3.14)(4.8) which equals 30.144\nI will not go through the rest of the calculations at this time.\nStep 11: Finding the Angle of Each Segment\nA = C/N = Segment angles.\nCA = A/2 = Cut angle.\nIn this example our vessel will have nine 3/4 inch layers and will have 24 segments in each layer.\nIf you are using a table saw, you will only need to know the angle of each segment.\nTo find the angle of each segment, divide 360 by 24 = 15 degrees.\nIf you are using a chop saw or band saw you will use the Cut Angle, which is the above angle Divided by two.\nThe cut angle would then be 7.5 degrees.\nStep 12: To Find the Width of Each Segment\nW = (R_out) –( R_in) = Width of each segment.\nTo find the width of each segment, simply subtract (R_in) from (R_out)\nThe inner radius from the outer radius.\nWidth of ring one would be 4.8 - 3.0 or 1.8 Inches.\nYou will need this measurement for each layer.", "76" ], [ "Retro Mason Jar Nightstand Lamp\nIntroduction: Retro Mason Jar Nightstand Lamp\nThis is one beautiful piece that will look great in your home. Moreover, its super easy to build and you can buy almost all the parts at your local thrift shop and home improvement store!\nSupplies\n* Old Lamp\n* Large Wide Mouth Mason Jar With Lid\n* Retro Style Light Bulb\n* (3x) 5\" x 3/4\" Metal Pipe Pre-Threaded\n* (2x) 45 Degree Metal Angle Pieces 3/4\"\n* (1x) 90 Degree Metal Angle Piece 3/4\"\n* Scrap Piece of 2x8 Board around 12\" long\n* Switch\n* Stain\n* Spray Paint\nTools:\n* Scissors\n* Soldering Iron\n* Drill With Bits\n* Handsaw or Tablesaw\n* Chisel\n* Wire Strippers\nStep 1: Take Apart the Lamp\nMAKE SURE YOUR LAMP IS UNPLUGGED.\nAC CURRENT IS VERY VERY DANGEROUS.\nWith the Lamp I used, I cut the wire at both sides of the pre-existing switch since I will be adding my own Switch. Next I unscrewed all the parts holding my lamp together in order to leave just the head (where you screw in the light bulb) and the cable attached to it. It will vary from every lamp stand so make sure to preserve the head of the light as well as the cable coming from it, and you should be good to go.\nStep 2: Assemble the Metal Frame\nGrab the: (3x) 5\" x 3/4\" metal tubes that are pre-threaded and attach them together using the (2x) 45 degree angles and the one 90 degree angle on the end (See picture above).\nStep 3: Build the Bulb Cover\nUsing the lid of the Mason jar, we cut a hole in the middle of it. Make sure it is the same size as the head of the lamp where you put the light bulb in (See picture above). The metal plate on the top of the jar is thin enough to cut with scissors, just make sure that there are some little pre drilled holes that way you have a starting point for when you cut. After cutting out the hole, place the head of the lamp in the hole and either glue it in place or tighten with the nut. Some lamps will have a nut while others won't. If yours doesn't have a nut then glue it into the inside of the lamp, that way the glue will be hidden. Make sure to spray paint it if you would like to before gluing it in. Otherwise good luck getting it out!\nStep 4: Cutting and Forming the Base\nFor the Base of the Lamp, I used a 2x8 Board scrap. You can find these for free in trashes of worksites or other places like that. Take it home and cut it to size. It is easier to do with a table saw but it is possible to be done with a handsaw.", "56" ], [ "I cut mine into a piece that was 12\" x 6.5\" and kept the stock thickness the same. Using my table saw, I also cut bevels into the sides of the base to make it more visually appealing.\nThe Next part of this step involves cutting the hole for the switch, and the hole for the metal frame to fit into.\nFirst I put a 1\" Drill bit on the end of the drill and made a hole at about a 30 degree angle. Doing so would give me the desired look from the lamp stand. Afterwards, drill a 1/4\" hole coming through the back into the bottom of the bigger hole. After this I stated to mark and cut out the hole for the switch. If you take your time, it is possible to do this without drilling a hole through the whole piece. Lastly, drill a hole from both sides that way you can run your cables from the power socket and the bulb into the compartment for the switch (See picture above).\nStep 5: Painting and Staining\nThis step is purely subjective. What that means is that you can paint or stain it however you like. I am going to be both painting the metal and staining the wood. I will also put a finish coat over the wood and show you exactly how I do both methods.\nStaining the wood:\nTo Stain the wood all you have to do is get your desired color and grab an old t-shirt or rag. It is important to make sure the surface has been sanded smooth because splintered or rough wood may rip the rag. After you surface is clear of dust and is smooth, soak the rag in the stain. Slather it all over the wood allowing it to soak in. The longer it soaks, the darker it gets (THIS IS IMPORTANT). Once you get to your desired color, let it dry overnight.", "959" ], [ "Button Wall Hook\nIntroduction: Button Wall Hook\nA cute hanger for clothes or towels. With just a 3d printed part and a rubber band, you will make the illusion of a very big button that is hanging on your wall. Swap them out with yellow, pink, or blue. You name it and you can make it.\nSupplies\n3D printer, rubber band, and a screw.\nStep 1: Print Out the Parts\nYou do not need any support while printing the models. Here is the file on PrusaPrinters there are 2 parts that you need to print out. The mount that will go on your wall and the button itself.\nStep 2: Preparing the Rubberband\nCut the rubber band so that you have one long stretch of rubber. After that, you will cut the end of the rubber band so that you will get 8mm of less wide rubber that you can fit properly true the holes in the 3dprint.\nStep 3: Making the Button\nBegin with running the rubber band piece through the back of the button (It will be a little hard to fit through the holes but it assures a firm fitting).", "646" ], [ "Then put it in the opposite piece at the front so that it will come out of the back again. Repeat this step with the same piece of rubber at the other holes. Cut off the remainder of the rubber and you are done! If you have done it right you will end up with the final picture.\nStep 4: Preparing the Mount\nGet the mounting piece and chose a spot where you like to hang your button hook. Then before you will put it on the wall put the screw in the mount and turn until it is 3mm on the other side. This step will help you with making sure it fits well and making the attaching easier. After doing this attach the mount to the wall.\nStep 5: Attaching the Button\nI have updated this instructable and added to the print model threading. Now you can just screw it on the mount and have it firmly in place. And if you want to remove you can do that easily by turning it counterclockwise.", "984" ] ]

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[ [ "Okay, I think I am satisfied that the \"partial answer\" I included in the question is the correct answer. The proof of the WW theorem involves matrix elements of the form $$\\langle p|T^{\\mu\\nu}(x)|p'\\rangle, $$ where $|p\\rangle$ is a momentum eigenstate of the spin-2 particle and $p,p'$ are two nearly equal null momenta. The proof relies on this matrix element being nonzero, while it does equal zero for my case of two collinear photons. The operator $T^{\\mu\\nu}$ cannot change the momenta of two different photons, because it is only quadratic in the photon field $A^\\mu$.", "298" ], [ "Therefore the proof does not apply, and such states can of course exist.\nThe reason I was dissatisfied with the answer, and called it only \"partial\", was that I didn't understand why we should be so confident that the above matrix element does not vanish when $|p\\rangle$ is a single-particle state such as an \"emergent graviton\" that is a bound state of other fields. If it can vanish when the underlying particles are not bound, then how do we know that creating a bound state will change things?\nNow I think I get it: the condition $\\langle p|T^{\\mu\\nu}(x)|p'\\rangle\\ne0 $ is basically an intuitive physical requirement. It means that if (hypothetically) there was a an interaction of the form $T^{\\mu\\nu}h_{\\mu\\nu}$ (and of course there is such an interaction, namely gravity, but we do not require this), then a background field $h_{\\mu\\nu}$ with a small gradient could cause slightly changes in the momentum of our particle, making it move along a curved trajectory. This can be taken as a reasonable definition of what is meant by the particle being \"charged under $T^{\\mu\\nu}$\", and this is what is required for the WW theorem to apply.\nThis behavior is also pretty close to what we mean by a state being \"bound\", namely that the different components maintain a shared trajectory when \"pushed around\" by mild forces. But it does not describe particles that just happen to be collinear; in that case the force will tend to spread the trajectories slightly apart.", "298" ], [ "Irreducible tensor representations with \"covariant\" indices\nAs a follow-up of my question on the \"most general\" $\\mathrm{SU}(2)$-symmetric interaction of two spin 1/2 particles, I ponder the following question:\nConsider an operator acting just on one particle of spin 1/2, and just on the spin part. In second quantization, it can be written as $$\\sum_{\\alpha\\beta} \\psi^\\dagger_\\alpha V_{\\alpha \\beta} \\psi_\\beta$$\nNow, under $SU(2)$, the operators will transform as $$\\psi^\\dagger_\\alpha = \\sum_{\\alpha'} \\psi^\\dagger_{\\alpha'} D_{\\alpha\\alpha'}$$ with $D \\in SU(2)$.\nI can move this transformation to the operator and conclude that it transforms like $$V_{\\alpha\\beta} \\rightarrow \\sum_{\\alpha'\\beta'} D_{\\alpha\\alpha'} V_{\\alpha'\\beta'} D_{\\beta\\beta'}^\\dagger$$.\n(I might have gotten some of the daggers and indices backwards, but the important point is that one matrix is the adjunct of the other).\nNow if I understand correctly, this allows me to conclude that $V_{\\alpha\\beta}$ transforms \"reducibly like a tensor product of two spin 1/2 representations\", i.e., like $\\frac{1}{2} \\otimes \\frac{1}{2}$. From that, I conclude that $V$ should decompose into one component that transforms like a spin $0$ particle and one component that transforms like a spin $1$ particle.\nIndeed, as $V$ is a $2\\times 2$ matrix, I can write it as a linear combination of the unit matrix and the pauli matrices. The former transforms like a scalar, i.e., like spin $0$, whereas the latter transform like vectors.", "656" ], [ "However, I have trouble relating this to what I know about combining spin $1/2$ particles using Clebsh-Gordan coefficients, where I have, e.g., for the singlet $$|0 0\\rangle = \\frac{1}{\\sqrt{2}} \\left( \\uparrow \\downarrow - \\downarrow \\uparrow\\right)$$\nBecause of this conceptual problem, I also have trouble generalizing this to the case of two interacting spin 1/2 particles, which then should lead to an interaction that transforms reducibly as $1/2 \\otimes 1/2 \\otimes 1/2 \\otimes$ and gives rise to two different singlets.\nI'd appreciate it if someone could disentangle my misconceptions...\nEDIT: I forgot to specify what I mean with \"covariant\" in the title: I think an important thing to notice is that the matrix elements $V_{\\alpha\\beta}$ are not the 4 elements of a \"cartesian\" tensor of rank 2. The entire operator $V$ might be an element of a tensor of higher rank, or even the sum of elements of tensors of different rank. A simple example for such a thing would be an operator \"1 + x\", which is the sum of a rank zero tensor (scalar) and the element of a cartesian tensor of rank 1.\nNow, what I mean with covariant is that one of the indices of $V_{\\alpha\\beta}$ transforms with matrix $D$ and the other with matrix $D^\\dagger$.\nAlso important is that the components of the operator transform with the actual $SU(2)$-matrices and not with some rotation matrix $R \\in SO(3)$. I guess this is why I have trouble translating the standard literature on tensor operators to my situation...", "656" ], [ "<PERSON> in his text on field quantisation tries to justify this exact same point in example 10.2:\nIt is very difficult to find an exact description of the bound states of the $e^+e^-$ system since this would amount to solving the relativistic two-body problem...\nAccording to the general principle of Lorentz invariance the state vector of positronium $|Ps\\rangle$ can be classified by the eigenvalues of the operators $P^\\mu$, $\\mathbf J^2$ and $J^z$. In addition we have the operators of space inversion P and charge conjugation C, which commute with the set of kinematic operators. The corresponding eigenvalues are $$P|Ps\\rangle = \\pi_P |Ps\\rangle, C|Ps\\rangle = \\pi_C |Ps\\rangle\\tag{1}$$ where $\\pi_P = ±1$ denotes space parity and $\\pi_C = ±1$ denotes charge parity. Now we make the following ansatz for the state vector of positronium in the center-of-mass system $(P = 0)$: $$|Ps\\rangle=\\int d^3\\vec p\\sum_{s,s'}R(\\vec p,s,s')b^\\dagger_{\\vec p,s}d^\\dagger_{-\\vec p,s'}|0\\rangle\\tag{2}$$ where $R(\\vec p,s,s')$ is the wave function in momentum space.", "66" ], [ "Here $s$ and $s'$ are the projection of the electron and positron spins onto the z axis. The state (2) contains one electron-positron pair with a combined momentum of zero and is an approximation to the true bound state since the particle number in QED is not a conserved quantiy. In general higher multi-pair configurations with total charge zero, such as $b^\\dagger b^\\dagger d^\\dagger d^\\dagger|0\\rangle$ etc., can contribute to the state vector. In positronium, however, such admixtures are very small, owing to the essentially nonrelativistic nature of this system. In any case, for the purpose of classifying the bound states it is sufficient to use the ansatz (2); any complicated higher-order admixtures would have the same symmetry properties.\nFor now, I'll take this as an explanation which invalidates my previous understanding\nthe creation and annihilation operators for these states(positronium atom creation/annihilation operator in this case) are independent of the creation and annihilation operators for the constituent particles.\nSince now the creation operator of positronium atom, for the positron and for the electron don't commute pairwise.\nAny additional remarks/clarification/answers are welcome!", "976" ], [ "Why is the decay channel $H \\to \\gamma\\gamma$ direct evidence that the spin of the Higgs must be different from one?\nThe title says it all really, I searched this website and came across a post with a question titled Why is the Higgs boson spin 0?. But it doesn't really answer my question in the title.\nBut this next post I found on this site is much more strongly related to my question.\nIn fact, it is one of the answers to the question in that post which I am essentially questioning. Here is a direct quote for the answer given by <PERSON>:\nThe Higgs boson has spin $0$. A photon has spin $1$. The total angular momentum cannot change in the decay, so a Higgs boson cannot decay into a single photon, regardless of the energy. But the total angular momentum of two photons can be zero (because their spins can be oriented in opposite directions), so this decay mode can conserve angular momentum.\nThe problem with this quote is that it just seems to be just concerned with conserving the spin projection quantum number - which I denote here by $s_z$ and $s$ for the spin quantum number.", "400" ], [ "The $z$-direction in $s_z$ is arbitrary and could be any direction.\nAs I understand it, photons always have spin, $s=1$. Just like electrons always have a spin of $s=1/2$, but can have $2s+1 (= 2)$ spin projections, namely, $s_z=\\pm 1/2$.\nSo the only way to conserve spin projection would be to have one photon with $-1$ spin projection and the other photon with $+1$ spin projection. Or, have both photons with zero spin projection. That is the only way to conserve spin projection in the $H \\to \\gamma\\gamma$ decay mode. But, the problem is we are not trying to conserve spin projection, but rather spin, $s$, itself.\nI tried searching the internet for explanations of why that decay shows the spin of the Higgs boson is different from one, but I cannot get a straight answer. It must be something quite trivial as the original discovery paper in July 2012 simply stated in its abstract that \"The decay to two photons indicates that the new particle is a boson with spin different from one\" which can be found here after selecting the appropriate title paper which looks like:\nSo, just to summarize, why does the Higgs diphoton decay prove that the spin of the Higgs is different from one?", "400" ], [ "The real quick answer to my question is that the normal ordered form of $T'(w)$ in the statement of my question is exactly right, but the primes above the fields $\\phi'(w)$ need to be taken seriously. The meaning is that $\\phi'(w)=\\phi(z)$, and after making this substitution (noting that we do not change anything about the commutator subtracted in the normal ordering) we indeed see that the expectation value of $T'(w)$ is nonzero and what it should be.\nThis answer is maybe a little too quick, because when I asked my question I was still a little unsure that $T'(w)$ had the correct form. So let me go through a slightly longer reasoning so that there are no doubts.\nStarting on the plane, with coordinate $z$, we have an uncontroversial definition of normal ordering $$:\\partial_z\\phi(z)\\partial_{z'}\\phi(z'): \\quad=\\quad \\partial_z\\phi(z)\\partial_{z'}\\phi(z')-\\langle\\partial_z\\phi(z)\\partial_{z'}\\phi(z')\\rangle $$ The first term is a product of two primary fields at different points so we know exactly how it transforms. The second term is not an operator at all (or rather proportional to the identity operator) so we know exactly how it transforms.\nThere are different ways to think about the transformation, in particular we could think about field configurations in the path integral, but I find it helpful to think in terms of operators. From an operator perspective there will be some unitary operator $U$ associated with the transformation which can ultimately be written in terms of $T(z)$ or the generators of the Virasoro algebra.", "364" ], [ "Its effect on the scalar field is simple. $$U\\phi(z)U^{-1}=\\phi(w)$$ Note this is the exact same field appearing on both sides, only the argument has changed. So writing our transformation law: $$U:\\partial_z\\phi(z)\\partial_{z'}\\phi(z'):U^{-1} =\\partial_z w(z)\\partial_{z'}w(z')\\partial_{w}\\phi(w)\\partial_{w'}\\phi(w')-\\langle\\partial_z\\phi(z)\\partial_{z'}\\phi(z')\\rangle$$ Now since $\\phi(w)$ is indeed the same operator, we can rewrite this expression in terms of normal ordered $:\\partial_{w}\\phi(w)\\partial_{w'}\\phi(w'):$ the ordinary way. When we take the limit where $z, z'$ approach each other we get the extra central charge term on the left hand side, following the exact same reasoning as <PERSON> et al do in their textbook at (5.136).\nMoving the $U$ to the other side we have $$T(z)=\\frac{1}{z^2}\\left(\\left(\\frac{L}{2\\pi}\\right)^2 U^{-1}T(w)U +\\frac{c}{24}\\right)$$ Now the key thing from the operator point of view is that when we take the vacuum expectation value $\\langle U^{-1} T(w)U\\rangle$ is not the same as $\\langle T(w)\\rangle$ which vanishes. They would be the same thing if $U$ were a global conformal transformation, since that would leave the vacuum invariant, but this particular transformation will involve Virasoro generators which do not annihilate the vacuum.\nSo the non-invariance of the vacuum is really what opens up the possibility of a non-vanishing $\\langle U^{-1}T(w)U\\rangle\\equiv \\langle T'(w)\\rangle$. And not at all coincidentally the conformal transformations which do change the vacuum are those that have non-vanishing Schwarzian derivative, and thus an extra inhomogeneous central charge term.", "818" ], [ "The neutrality condition and the (non)-vanishing of the one-point correlator for the bosonic vertex operator\nConsider the massless scalar field Hamiltonian, \\begin{align} H = \\frac{1}{2}\\int \\Pi^2- (\\partial_x\\phi)^2 dx \\end{align} with $\\Pi \\sim \\partial_t\\phi$ the conjugate field of $\\phi$. This Hamiltonian is treated in a number of texts, in particular <PERSON>'s text on Bosonization on page 1841 and the Conformal Field Theory book by <PERSON>, <PERSON> and <PERSON> (chapter 6 and 9). Furthermore, my question also relates to this text by <PERSON> and <PERSON> on bosonization.\n<PERSON> defines the vertex operator as the normal ordered operator $:e^{i\\alpha\\phi}:$. He states (p1843) that the one-point correlator is unity, $\\langle :e^{i\\alpha\\phi}:\\rangle =1$, since the exponential can be expanded and only the first term does not vanish.\nBut just before that he also states that the two-point correlator $$ \\langle :e^{i\\alpha\\phi}: :e^{i\\beta\\phi}: \\rangle $$ vanishes unless $\\alpha + \\beta = 0$. This is the neutrality condition and it follows from the fact that $\\phi\\rightarrow \\phi + a$ is a symmetry of the Hamiltonian, which needs to be respected by the (two-point) correlators. That sounds convincing enough, but then why does the one-point correlator not vanish according to that same argument?\nTo add to (my) confusion the normal ordered form is given by $$ :e^{i\\alpha\\phi}: = e^{i\\alpha\\phi_+}e^{i\\alpha\\phi_-} $$ where $\\phi_{\\pm}$ contain all creation/annihilation operators. So using some rules of exponentiated operators (see appendix C of Von Delft) one can reorder the operators such that $$ :e^{i\\alpha\\phi(z_1)}: :e^{i\\beta\\phi(w_1)}: = f(z-w) :e^{i(\\alpha+\\beta)\\phi(w_1)}: + \\cdots $$ with $f(z-w)$ a (singular) c-number. This is of course just the OPE. But that would imply that if the right hand side has a non-vanishing correlator, then the left hand side is non-vanishing as well.", "346" ], [ "If the one-point correlator does not vanish, why does the two-point correlator need to obey the neutrality condition?\n<PERSON> has some other, more elaborate proofs using <PERSON> identities (Chapter 9) that show that indeed $\\alpha+\\beta = 0$ in order for the correlator to be non-zero. In particular that means that, according to their conventions, any $N$-point correlator vanishes unless the neutrality condition is satisfied. It could be that the different texts have different conventions that I'm missing and everything is fine. Still, a different question arises: If the exponentials in the normal ordered operators are expanded, and only the first (unit) term is kept, then surely the one-point correlator is just $1$? Why does this approach fail, according to their conventions?\nLet me also mention <PERSON> and <PERSON>. They also state that the one point correlator of the normal ordered operator $:e^{i\\alpha\\phi}:$ does not vanish. Instead they define the vertex operator (chapter 9) as $$ V_\\alpha = \\left(\\frac{L}{2\\pi}\\right)^{-\\frac{\\lambda^2}{2}}:e^{i\\alpha\\phi}: $$ with $L$ the system size (periodic boundary conditions). They state that \"evidently $\\langle V_\\alpha\\rangle =\\delta_{alpha,0} $ in the limit of $L\\rightarrow\\infty$.\". Does the neutrality condition then only hold in the $L\\rightarrow\\infty$ limit?. This would invalidate <PERSON> treatment, I presume.\nSo, in short, I'm quite confused on how to \"merge\" these different treatments.", "346" ], [ "The Lagrangian for a massive vector field (without sources) has the form\n$$ L = -\\frac{1}{4}F_{\\mu\\nu}F^{\\mu\\nu} + \\frac{1}{2}M^{2}A_{\\mu}A^{\\mu}$$\nand is not gauge invariant due to the mass term. The eq.s of motion are\n$$\\partial _{\\mu}F^{\\mu\\nu} + M^{2}A^{\\nu} = 0$$ and by deriving a second time\n$$\\partial_{\\mu} A^{\\mu} = 0$$\nthat is not a gauge-fixing. Instead it arises dynamically and reduces the d.o.f. from 4 to 3. In the electromagnetic case (massless vector fields) once you fix the gauge you have an additional residual gauge condition that reduces the d.o.f.", "298" ], [ "from 3 to 2. The e.o.m. can be solved in the momentum space $$A^{\\mu}(x) = \\frac{1}{4\\pi^{2}} \\int \\frac{d^{3}k}{2\\omega}(e^{ik\\dot x}\\epsilon^{\\mu}(\\mathbf{k}) + c.c.)$$\nWhat I think <PERSON> wants to say is that in the massive case you can always choose a reference frame on the particle and so the time component of the polarization vector $\\epsilon^{\\mu}$ became redundant.\nWhen I think of three possibilities for spin-1, I think {+1,0,−1}. When I think >of a spin-1 \"vector state,\" I think the three positions in the vector represent {+1,0,−1}and not {,,}\nMaybe you are talking about the $z$-component of the spin. For $\\frac{1}{2}$-spin it can also point in 3 directions, in fact there is the quantum number $helicity$ that is the projection on the direction of motion of the spin.\nHere I understand that due to special relativity, is a function of , but since >I don't see the connection to the polarization states, I am missing the >relationship to the amplitude. I believe <PERSON> when he cites this dependence of the amplitude, but where does it come from?\nIn an analogous way to the scalar field, from the expression of the $A^{\\mu}(x)$ you can see that the creation and absorption amplitude are proportional to the polarization vectors.\nHow <PERSON> is able to conclude immediately that it is \"fixed proportional to ${}−\\frac{{}_{}}{^{2}}$?\nFor the Lorentz invariance $$\\sum \\epsilon_{\\nu}^{(a)}(k) \\epsilon_{\\lambda}^{(a)}(k) = -g_{\\nu\\lambda}A(k^{2})+k_{\\nu}k_{\\lambda}B(k^{2}) $$ You can multiply the previous for $k^{\\nu}$ and applying $k^{\\mu}\\epsilon_{\\mu}^{(a)} = 0$ you find $$0 = -k_{\\lambda}(-A(k^{2})+k^{2}B(k^{2})) \\iff B(k^{2}) = \\frac{A(k^{2})}{m^{2}}$$ Also in the case $\\nu = \\lambda$ for the completeness relation $$\\sum \\epsilon_{\\nu}^{(a)}(k) \\epsilon_{\\nu}^{(a)}(k) = -1 = A(k^{2})$$", "346" ], [ "Why doesn't the Weinberg-Witten theorem forbid colinear photons?\nThe Weinberg-Witten theorem tells us that any theory that has an effective graviton, i.e. a massless helicity-2 particle as a state in the free-particle Fock space, cannot have a gauge-invariant and <PERSON>-covariant stress-energy tensor that gives the graviton nonzero energy. This is intended as a no-go theorem ruling out composite gravitons, because if the theory can be expressed using only particles of spin $\\le 1$ then it presumably will have such a tensor.\nA composite graviton would be a bound state of lower-spin particles such as gauge bosons, with that sum of their spins in the direction of propagation equal to 2. My question is: why does the state need to be bound? Why are we only interested in states that can be called \"particles\"? QED, for instance, includes massless states of helicity 2: states with 2 photons that just happen to have the same direction and spin. They are not single particles, but they are part of the Hilbert space, and matrix elements exist for them. The argument of Weinberg-Witten would seem to apply.", "298" ], [ "Yet QED does have a covariant stress-energy tensor, and collinear two-photon states do have nonzero energy. Why isn't this forbidden?\nI think I have a partial answer: the proof of the WW theorem derives a contradiction by writing down the tensor (at the origin) as an operator on the gauge-fixed Fock space, taking its matrix elements between single-graviton states of different momenta, and taking a limit as the momenta approach coincidence while we shift the <PERSON> frame to make the momenta equal and opposite. Thus it's not enough for the graviton to have nonzero expected energy; it must have nonzero matrix elements even between states of unequal momenta. Since we are talking about an operator at a point, this seems like a reasonable assumption. Yet it seems to me that this is where my \"collinear photon\" case falls out: We can (I think) write the electromagnetic stress energy tensor as a sum of term of the form $a^\\dagger_k a_{k'}$, meaning that we only get a nonzero matrix element when at most one photon has different momenta between the two states. Since we want states with different directions for the momenta of the collinear particle pairs, we get zero and cannot derive a contradiction.\nIs this correct? Or am I perhaps confusing myself by thinking about pure momentum states rather than normalizable wavepackets? This was done in the original proof, but perhaps it introduces problems with more than one particle?\nOf course, the really important question is: what changes when the state is bound; i.e. an actual composite graviton? Is it possible that we have a new loophole for the WW theorem, where we can have composite gravitons as long as we somehow force the stress-energy tensor to de diagonal in the momentum?", "298" ] ]

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[ [ "Flat Foldable Paper Lamp\nIntroduction: Flat Foldable Paper Lamp\nFor a long time i have wanted to make a paper lamp. When one of my teachers showed me Instructibles and that there was a contest for making something out of paper, I finally got the motivation to sit down and make a proper lamp design. I found some cheap flexible LED lights and used thick paper so that the lamp wouldn’t be too strong. My goal was to create a decent sized mood light for my bedroom. I ended up with this design which i am quite happy about.\nThis is the first time i make an instructables. If there are any steps that are unclear, please let me know and i will try to clearify.\nSupplies\nTools needed:\n* Cutting mat, preferably one with 30- and 60-degree angles marked, if not you will need a protractor.\n* Steel ruler, for cutting along.\n* Plastic ruler, for creasing along.\n* Craft knife.\n* Some tool to crease the paper with.\n* ~160-220g A3 paper. (The LED lights i used where quite strong so 220g paper worked for me). I use 8 pieces in my lamp, but you can make it taller or shorter by adding or removing 2 pieces of paper.\n* Double sided tape. Glue works, but i strongly recommend tape.\n* Pencil and eraser.\n* Pencil compass.\n* Flexible LED strip or any other light source you'd like. I used a 3-meter strip of flexible LED lights.\nStep 1: Cutting the Paper Into Shape\nThe first step is to cut the paper into a parallelogram. If you have a cutting mat with a 30-degree line on it, place the paper into the corner and cut along the line. Turn the paper 180 degrees and repeat. For my lamp I made 6 pieces like this.\nStep 2: Dividing the Paper\nNext up is dividing the paper into 4 sections along the longest side.", "294" ], [ "3 of the sections need to be the same size and the last one is for glueing the papers togheter. For the A3 paper i used, i made a mark at 11 cm intervals, leaving a bit more than 1 cm for tape. I then marked on the other side and drew connecting lines.\nThe drawn lines where only creased in the actual lamp. If you choose to mark the lines with a pencil, there may be marks showing when done if you put a lightsource inside.\nStep 3: Making the Diagonal Screases\nNext up is creasing the diagonal lines. If you’re using a mat with angles marked, just place the paper in the corner and crease along the 30-degree line.\nYou will see that the diagonal creases cross the creases from the previous step. Crease lines along these connecting points. You will want to end up with a piece similar to the last picture in this step.\nStep 4: Finishing the Units\nThe green area is where tape or glue should be applied.\nFor all the pieces i cut off this small corner part. This is optional, but makes connecting the units\nFor 2 the 2 top units i cut away the long part for tape or glue. Since they won't be connected to any more units above, this part is unnecessary.\nThe red lines indicate where to make a mountain fold and the blue lines are valley folds. Fold these lines before connecting all the units togheter.\nMake 6 units. You could make more or less, but i recommend at least 4 units.\nStep 5: Connecting the Units\nAfter folding all the units, it is time to connect them. Make sure that the finished connected paper has exactly 6 horizontal sections pluss the one for glue.\nTape or glue so that the flaps are hidden inside the lamp for a clean look.\nTake your time and make sure the creases align.\nStep 6: The Hard Part\nWhen you have finished connecting all the units, it is time to make the collapsable cylinder.\nI higly recommend testing how it will connect before applying glue or tape. It is impossible to connect it without collapsing it a bit.\nI split the tape into segments so i can glue a bit at the time.\nTake your time and make sure that the edges align properly and the paper doesnt tear.\nThe video shows how the body should be able to be flat folded.\nStep 7: Add Light\nThe flexible LED strip I bought had tape in the back side, so it was easy to just attach on the inside. I worked in a spiral pattern, constantly making sure that I did not prevent the lamp from being flat foldable with the tape.\nStep 8: Making the Top and Bottom\nTo make the top and bottom, take the lengt of one segment from step 2 and use a pencil compass to create a circle with that lenght in radius.", "6" ], [ "Seed Starter Structure for Growing Lights\nIntroduction: Seed Starter Structure for Growing Lights\nThis is a simple and cost effective structure to hold the growing lights close to the seeding tray.\nSupplies\nMaterial:\n* PLA+ filament - white\n* 4x Square Dowel Rods - 1/2 in thick and 48 in length\n* Seed starter tray\n* Growing Lights\n* Some cord\n* Some glue\nNote: I got the wooden rods directly at Home Depot. They also have them in Rona or Reno Depot!\nTools:\n* Copying saw\n* 3D printer - Ender 3 v2 from Creality - the best budget printer you can get!\n* Utility knife\n* Plies\nStep 1: 3D Print Dowel Joints\nThe first step is to print the joints that will later hold the structure together. You need 8 copies of the joint.\nJust open in your favourite slicer the .stl file I have attached, and obtain the gcode for your 3D printing machine.\nIn my case I used the well known and free slicer called Cura.\nAlso I printed the joints on PLA+ white from eSUN, with a heated plate at 60C, and a nozzle temperature of 200C.\nYou must use supports when printing since there are overhang walls!\nStep 2: Remove Printing Supports\nTime to remove those supports by using the utility knife, and maybe a pair of plies to pull the supports out of the joints.\nThe design is done so that it is super easy to remove them. The supports are mostly attached to two faces, so they come out as 2 small squares (as showing in one of te pictures)... that's why I added the holes in some faces in those strategic positions!\nStep 3: Cut the Square Dowels\nNow you have to cut each of the 48 inches rods into pieces by using the copying saw.\nBasically you want to get from each rod the following 3 pieces:\n* 1 piece of 23 in\n* 1 piece of 13 in\n* 1 piece of 12 in\n... and repeat these operation for each of the 4 dowels.", "646" ], [ "By the end you must have 4 copies for each piece (a total of 12)\nStep 4: Assemble the Structure\nNow is time to put all the pieces together.\nThe easier way I found to do this is by mounting the top frame and bottom frame first with the plastic joints. Then connect these 2 sub-assemblies together with the remaining wooden rods.\nFor each sub assembly you need:\nTop frame.\n* 2x wood pieces of 23 in\n* 2x wood pieces of 13 in\n* 4x plastic joints\nBottom frame:\n* same same\nAnd then connect Top and Bottom with the 4 wooden pieces of 12 in length that you have left.\nStep 5: Hang the Growing Lights\nNow you have to hang the lights from the frame just above your seeding tray.\nI use a piece of cord that I cut and tight from the structure to the growing lights.\nIt is recommended to put the lights close to the tray. You want the seedlings at the beginning to grow thick, and not tall. Basically you don't want to end up getting leggy seedlings.\nAlso, don't tight the knot too tight! Over time you will be moving the lights up, allowing your plants to keep growing :)\nNote: In the pictures my growing tray is very small compared with the structure. The reason is because I used a smaller tray. Yours should fit more tight to the structure...\nStep 6: Final Thoughts\nI hope you enjoyed making this simple project a much as I did. Happy gardening!", "56" ], [ "Hot Glue Mosaic Coasters (or Tiles)\nIntroduction: Hot Glue Mosaic Coasters (or Tiles)\nThese colourful Hot Glue Mosaic Coasters are fun to make. I was looking at lego art, which made me think of iron melt beads and with the hot glue contest in the back of my mind I thought of doing this.\nInstead of the cutter, jig and hole punch, you could just use a craft knife and a normal hole punch. I didn't have a hole punch of the right size, so I made one. Your punch might also get a bit gluey.\nI made the cutter jig because I wanted the slices to be consistent. I made the cutter because I found it easier to cut the glue sticks with pressure from above.\nSupplies\n7mm hot glue sticks in various colours.\nParchment paper\nClothes Iron\nA surface to iron on ( used a folded tea towel to protect the surface of my kitchen counter )\nMould release ( I used Silicone spray )\nSafety goggles\nDust mask\nGloves\nFor the mould, cutter and hole punch\n3d printer\nFilament ( I used PLA and it held up fine, but filament with a higher melting point, like PETG or ABS, would be better for the mould).\nTinkercad and a Tinkercad login.\nSmall blow torch\nCalipers or Ruler\nCutter:\nCraft knife with a long blade\nHole Punch:\n4mm Aluminium Rivet\nDremel or drill with 2mm, 2.8mm and 3mm metal drill bits.\nSandpaper\nPliers ( I used needle nose pliers and wire cutters )\nHammer\nBench vice (or another way to clamp the rivet while drilling.)\nPopsicle sticks\nStep 1: 3D Printed Parts\nI modeled the mould, hot glue cutter and hole punch in Tinkercad.\nI've included instructions for modeling the mould in Tinkercad as I thought you might want to customise it for larger grids or thicker glue sticks. I've also included all the stl files and a link to the Tinkercad file for the mould and tools. I haven't included instructions for modeling the cutter and hole punch. They are both made up of simple boxes and cilinders in Tinkercad.", "401" ], [ "I'm happy to answer any questions regarding the 3D modeling or anything else.\nStep 2: Making the Coaster Mould\nOpen Tinkercad and log in. Start a new project.\n1: Create the grid\nIn The shapes panel search for \"grid\".\nSelect a shape called \"grid of square columns\" and enter the setting as follows:\nColumns: 10\nRows: 10\nSize 7.5 ( The diameter of a glue stick + 0.5mm tolerance. )\nGap: 0.4 ( I wanted the blocks seperated by a very thin line and this is the width of my printing nozzle.)\nHeight: 3 ( This will be the thickness of the coaster. )\nThe finished grid should measure 78.6mm x 78.6mm. This will be the size of the coaster.\nFrom the basic shapes menu add box and scale it to 78.6mm x 78.6mm x 2mm.\nClick on align and align it to the top of the grid.\n2: To make the rounded corners\nFrom the basic shapes menu add a box, make it a hole and set the radius to 1.\nScale the box to 78.6mm (width )x 78.6mm (length) x 20mm (height).\nAdd another box and scale it to 80mm (width )x 80mm (length) x 10mm (height).\nSelect both boxes and click on \"align\". Center the boxes and then group them.\nMake this new object a hole.\nCentre align this object and the grid and group them.\n3: Complete the mould\nAdd a box and scale it to 83mm x 83mm x 4mm (height).\nAlign this box and the grid with the rounded corners from the previous step, so that they are centred on the x and y axis.\nAlign the grid to the top of the new box.\nMake the grid a hole.\nGroup the grid and the box\nSelect the new object. Click on export and select stl.\nI printed the coaster mould in PLA with a layer hight of 0.28 and 25% infill.\nStep 3: The Blade Grip and Cutting Guide\nDownload and print the blade grip and cutting guide stl files. I printed them in PLA with a 0.28mm layer height and 25% infill.\nBreak a section of three blades off a long craft knife blade. I put the blade in a craft knife and used pliers to break it off.", "110" ], [ "Twilight Tower of Terror Book Prop\nIntroduction: Twilight Tower of Terror Book Prop\nThis tutorial shows a simple trick how to leather bound a book or other objects using simple things you have at home or to get from your local store.\nIt is a nice Halloween project to do with kids. The glue used however is not suitable for kids so parents should always be supervising!\nFor making a candy bowl for example you can use the same technique but the leather needs to be cut in strips.\nStep 1: What We Need\n1 sheet of Chamois leather (sold for car and window cleaning) It needs to be the real leather kind!\n1 Bottle Furniture wax\n1 tin of Pattex Transparent glue or similar (the stinky stuff you can repair shoes with)\n1 book or notebook\nCutter knife, x-Acto knife and scissors\nsome string\nsome plastic letters, emblems, toys, old pieces of leather, whatever you want to have as a relief.\nYou can 3d print or laser cut custom things but if as most you don´t own a machine you can simply cut out cardboard shapes with scissors. However you would need quite thick cardboard\nIf like in my case you use a notepad, sometimes it is not possible to fold over the leather afterwards, so in this case i use two pieces of plywood that get glued to the book at the end. (also it avoids glue from dripping inside the book.) But you can of course work directly on the book cover.\nStep 2: The Layout\nFirst i need to arange all the decor pieces i want to have on the cover.\nTherefore i mark some helping lines with a ruler to find the exact midpoint and borders.\nAs i am using plywood book covers i let a margin on one edge to fit on another piece of leather or cardboard later in the process as the spine.\nNext i cut out two leather pieces, slightly bigger than the playwood or book cover.\nThe need to be folded and streched over the edge of the book cover later on so make sure they are big enough.\nStep 3: Glue and Pieces\nNext i start gluing the pieces in place.\nIn my case i use some 3d printed parts and some string that has a nice pattern that and will nicely come out afterwards.\nDon´t use hot glue for this as hot glue itself has a high volume and we don´t want to see this in the end product.\nAs in the video i added some cardboard leafs i cutted out with scissors.\nYou can use almost everything you can imagine aslong it will not get dissolved by the glue.\nBe careful to use things that are not to highly detailed. For example in the video i have not used the \"The Hollywood Tower Hotel\" sign as the writing was to small and would not come out later on.", "294" ], [ "Even this chamois leather stretches in 3 dimensions, of course it has its limits.\nHowever for this there is another simple thing we can do later.\nStep 4: The Rough Part\nI lay out some plastic (packing material) to avoid the glue from getting anywhere.\nAt this point i am checking that i have a lot of ventilation in the room as this glue smelles pretty strong of solvent.\nI cut myself a spatula out of cardboard and start spreading a thick layer of glue over both panels.\nImportant is to spread out the glue everywhere, in every little crevice!\nPattex Transparent is a contact glue so we need to smar it on bothe parts we want to join together.\nStep 5: The Careful Part\nThis is probably the only step we want to work clean!\nSo i use a new piece of underlay plastic to make sure there is no glue on it and spread some glue on one side of the leather pieces. Under no circumstances there should be glue coming on the beauty side as the furniture wax we will use later will not stick and the glue stains the material.\nYou can use a nice amount of glue but don´t get to excessive as it could seep thru.\nStep 6: The Magic Moment\nAfter waiting 5 minutes until the glue gets hard to the touch i can now fuse the leather and book cover together.\nThe glue should not stick to your fingers anymore but should not be completely hardened eighter.\nI carefully lay on the leather without pressing it yet. Make sure it is nicely positioned.\nThen i start rubbing it onto the plywood starting in the middle slowly moving outwards. The longer you do this, the more detail will come out. I use some cardboard to help pressing down the leather in tight spots to get a maximum of detail.\nAt this point you see how streachable this leather is. It deforms in any axis and lays on like a skin to the layout.", "556" ], [ "Laser Cut Wooden Puzzle Box\nIntroduction: Laser Cut Wooden Puzzle Box\nA few years ago, on my trip to Japan I found saw a little puzzle box I found very interesting so I tried my best to recreate it and share it with you. It’s not very complicated to build but I think the mechanism you need to solve it is a little bit tricky. It took me almost an hour. However, since you are reading this building instruction you can't solve it anymore but you can make your friends or family a very hard time with this one. Or you can even use it as a gift box for some money or whatever.\nSupplies\nThe only things you need are:\n* Laser Cutter\n* Any wood your laser cutter can work with (I used 3.8mm plywood)\n* A little bit of wood glue\n* One 3mm wood screw (about 16mm long)\nStep 1: Designing the Boxes\nTo make my life easy I used the free online tool boxes.py to create the vector path for the boxes.\nFor this particular puzzle box, we need two separated boxes where one can be placed exactly into the other one. We want the gap between the boxes as small as possible but enough to pull them apart without any friction between the walls.\nThe wood I got from my local hardware store is a very soft one and the thickness varies a little bit on every sheet but that’s not a big issue for me. If you have another wood which has another thickness or varies less in size you might need to adjust the settings for the boxes.\nYou can find my settings under the following links:\n· outer box\n· inner box\n· spacing outer box\n· spacing inner box\nThe pieces for the spacing are needed for the second bottom in the outer box and for the slide on lid in the inner box.\nThe design you get from boxes.py has by default no slide on lid so I adjusted the vector to make some space for the lid. I used Affinity Designer for this process because it is a very good and cheap alternative to Adobe Illustrator but you can use any software you like. Inkscape will work great as well. Also, I added some additional shapes that are needed for the locking mechanism.\nI prepared all the parts for my laser cutter on two A4 sized sheets. You can find the files in some different data formats below (unfortunately the originally .afdesign files from Affinity Designer are not supported to upload here.", "438" ], [ "If you’d like to have them, I can try to upload them somewhere else and share the link here)\nStep 2: Assembling the Boxes\nOne all the parts are cut out the fun part starts. My pieces fit together so strong I almost didn’t need any glue to build the basic boxes. The additional parts as well as the inner spacings have to be glued in place as you can see in the photos.\nI assume that the assembly of the boxes and spacing parts doesn’t require any instructions. Once you have finished this its time to reinforce the bottom of the inner box so that the screw will hold well. Therefore, first glue the second bottom in place and on the marked center glue the circular piece in place. There is already a small hole as guideline for the screw. Wait a little bit until the wood glue holds everything in place and then take the rectangular “wiggly piece” with the prepared hole and screw it to the bottom of the small box. It’s important not to screw it together tight! The wiggly piece has to move freely.\nThe last thing to do is to glue the lid together and place the handle on top of it.\nStep 3: Solving the Puzzle\nWe are finished!\nTo stack the two boxes together you have to hold them in a 45° angle so that the wiggly piece matches with the free space in the second bottom of the larger box. Once they are together and the wiggly piece moved out of place they are locked together. Notice that the slide on lid of the inner box is blocked by the outer one and can’t be opened unless you know the trick.\nNow that Christmas is coming soon, the box can certainly serve as a gift for some money or small notes. Enjoy!", "6" ], [ "Fold Out Book Dice Tower\nIntroduction: Fold Out Book Dice Tower\nA dice tower that folds into a book for storage.\nIdeally I would have used a fantasy novel to make this but I like all of my fantasy hardbacks too much to cut up.\nWhenever gluing in this project, I recommend using heavy weights to squash whatever is being glued so that paper does not warp in the gluing process.\nSupplies\n* A thick Hardback Book\n* Mod podge\n* Paint Brush\n* Greaseproof Paper\n* Craft Knife\n* Patterned paper, a Poster or Wallpaper\n* (Optional) Material to Cover Book (card, wallpaper or fabric)\n* (Optional) Acrylic Paint\nStep 1: Separate the Page Block From the Book Cover\nThis step is necessary even if you want to keep the the original cover of your book. Simply cut along the end pages connecting the page block to the cover. Be carful to not damage the text block or the cover during this process.\nStep 2: Re-cover the Book Cover (optional)\nThoroughly cover the outside of your cover with Mod podge or PVA.\nGlue the material you want to cover you book with to the outside of the cover. I used cocktail sticks to make sure the fabric was glued into the groves on the edge of the spine.\nOnce the outside is dry, wrap the material around the edge of the book and glue it down.\nI used faux leather to cover my book, this step should be skipped if you have a nice book cover.\nStep 3: Glue the Pages\nOpen the Page block to about 1/4 of the way through and slide in a sheet of baking paper to separate the two sections. The smaller section will become our Dice Tray and the larger section will become our Dice Tower. Use a paintbrush to spread Mod Podge or PVA glue along the outside edges of both sections to glue the pages together, the baking paper will stop the two sections from being glued together.", "294" ], [ "Use a pile of books or a weight on a flat board to squash the page block to stop the pages warping as the glue dries.\nStep 4: Cut the Dice Tray\nThe two sections are currently connected by the book binding. Cut a Large rectangle from the middle of the binding end of the Tray section, Keep the cut out rectangle connected to the Tower Section and cut along the binding to separate the rest of the Tray section from the Tower section. Cutting through the Page block can be done by cutting a few pages at a time with a craft knife and moving the\nTrim half a centimetre from each (non-binding) edge of the rectangle so that it can easily fit back into the hole it was cut from.\nNow cut two long rectangles along the edges of the Tray Section.\nCut Two rectangles into the Tower Section So that they line up with those in the Tray Section when the two sections are put together; the rectangles in the tower section do not need to go all the way through, just deep enough that your dice set will fit in the long rectangles when the book is closed.\nNow glue the edges of the pages in all rectangles, including the sticking out rectangle on the tower section, and press the sections individually.\nI cut the Large Rectangle to be a 120mm x 120mm square and the long rectangles to be 30mm x 120mm.\nStep 5: Cut the Tower Path\nCut a path with ledges into the back of the Tower Section. If you keep this path within the area covered by the extending rectangle to the front then you will have more room to work with.\nThis path should be large enough any of your dice can travel through the whole thing.\nThe top of the path should connect to the other side of the tower section by a horizontal tunnel.\nThe Bottom of the path should connect to the other side of the tower section by a sloped tunnel so that the dice will roll out to the front.\nBe careful to not have any horizontal or shallow areas in the path where dice can get stuck. The blue part in the picture is where i made the path too flat at the end so had to add some insulation foam to ensure dice could get down.\nNow glue the sides of the Tunnel so that the pages stick together.\nI painted the inside of my tunnel black so that the insulation foam was not visible.\nStep 6: Cut and Glue the End Pages\nCut your patterned paper to a couple of millimetres shy of your Book Cover and glue it to the inside of said cover.\nStep 7: Glue in the Tower Text Block\nGlue the Tower Section into the cover so that the Binding is flat against the middle if the cover and the face with the tower cut into is glued flat against the back cover. I recommend not gluing both faces at once so that you can rely on Gravity to help you glue flat.", "6" ], [ "Flowers From Recycled Material\nIntroduction: Flowers From Recycled Material\nWhen you can’t donate a piece of clothing because it is slightly damaged. Or you have lots of scraps left from other project, don’t throw them away. You can make it into a pretty flower.\nHere I turned some scraps of material into a ponytail holder.\nSupplies\n1-Any unwanted shirts or scraps of textile\n2-Ruler\n3-Round shaped objects to help you draw circles (2 -4 inches in diameter) (½ to 1 ¼ diameter for smaller circles)\n4-Pair of scissors\n5-Needle and thread\n6-A piece of cardboard\n7-Some polyester stuffing or yarn or cotton balls\n8a-glue gun ( optional) Or 8b- any other glue for fabric\n9-A plastic mat ( to protect your table when you use the glue gun).\nStep 1: Cutting the Pattern for the Flowers\nHere I use a 2 ¼ diameter circle for the petals and 1 ¼ diameter circle for the center of the flower. You can use any size you like. It depends on the amount of material scraps you have.\n1. Trace the circles. You need 5 large and 2 small.\n2. After tracing, cut the circles as closely to the line as you can.\nStep 2: Cutting the Cardboard\nWe use a cardboard ( any thickness you like) to support the center of the flower. We found a 0.02 mm thick instruction card.\n1. Cut out 2 pieces of ½ inch diameter circles.\nStep 3: Making the Petals\n1. Take 1 large circle, fold it into half and then into quarters. Rub over the folds. This is to get a crease on the material.\n2. Bring the opening of the material to face you, so that you can see a cross design as shown in the picture.\n3. Add the stuffing.\n4. Get your needle and thread and do a running stitch.\n**Note - a running stitch is a simple stitch by passing the needle in and out of the fabric at a regular distance.\n5. At the end of the material, pull the thread. The opening of the petal will closed up.\n6. Repeat the same steps for the next 5 petals.\nStep 4: Stitching the Petals Together\nWhen you have 5 petals ready, connect the last petals to the first petals by sticking it together.\nStep 5: Make the Center of the Flower\n1. Take the card board circle. Add a small dab of glue ( fiber glue or glue gun)\n2.", "294" ], [ "Stick a small amount of stuffing onto the cardboard.\n3. Place the smaller cloth circle on top of the stuffing.\n4. Turn the project over, and do a running stitch along the edge of the cloth circle.\n5. When you reach the end, just pull the thread together and you will create a pouch and enclose the stuffing.\n6. Do a few stitches to close the opening. Make a knot and cut off the thread\n7. Place the center of the flower to the position you like. You can stitch the center to the flower petals or use the glue to stick them together.\nStep 6: Making the Baking for the Flower\n1.Take the remaining pieces of small circle ( cloth and card board).\n2.Place some glue on the center of one side of the cardboard. Glue the cloth to it.\n3.Turn it around and glue the edges of the cloth over the cardboard.\n4. When you reached the last portion to fold the cloth over, make a small slit on the cloth so you can get a nicer finish.\n5. Place more glue on the side with the card board still showing and then glue to the back of the flower.\n6. Your fiber flower is done.\nStep 7: Assembling\nTake a small scrap of material of your choice. Can be a ribbon or same material. I have lots of extra scraps left.\n1. Fold the edges to make it neater and then glued the folds together.\n2. Glued the ponytail tie/band to the scrap of material you are using.\n3. Glue the flat side of it to the back of the flower.\n4. Let it dry. You have your own unique ponytail tie now.\nStep 8: Finished Product\nI used a glue gun to help stick my flowers to other material . You are free to choose whatever type of glue you have handy.\nI glued my to a ponytail band / tie. And also to a hook to hook it onto bags.", "694" ], [ "3D Printed Holo Clock With Arduino\nIntroduction: 3D Printed Holo Clock With Arduino\nHello everyone! This is my first instructable.\nThis project is a 3D printed clock powered by a stepper motor and is controlled by an Arduino Uno. It was designed in OnShape over the course of a month. It keeps time very precisely and only needs to be plugged into a USB port once programmed.\nCredit to ekaggrat for the design idea.\nThere may be missing files or errors. If you spot any, let me know.\nSupplies\nArduino Uno\n24BJY-48 stepper motor\nULN2003 stepper motor driver\n6 male to female jumper wires\nA 3D printer\n2 different colors of filament (I used black and white PLA+)\n2 M4 nuts\n2 M4 screws 6mm long\n4 M3 screws 10mm long\n8 M3 washers\nMasking tape\nSuper glue\nM4 and M3 allen wrenches\n3.18mm x .335mm brass tube (see below)\nLink for the brass tube: https://www.amazon.com/PRECISION-METALS-8127-RND-Tube/dp/B000BQOPWM/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=precision+metals+1%2F8+x+.014+brass+tube&qid=<PHONE_NUMBER>&sr=8-4\nNote: I only used such a strange tube because it was all I had on hand.\nStep 1: Print the Parts\nAll parts should be printed at .2mm layer hight.\nFor the gears: All of them should be printed in black.\nFor the other parts: All of them should be printed in white, and only minutes ring and hours ring need support.\nThe images show where support is required on the parts.\nFrame C should be printed twice.\nStep 2: Cut the Brass Tubes\nTo cut the tubes, put the brass tube into the vise and cut it with a dremel.\nThe lengths of the tubes are:\n45mm (make 3)\n34mm (make 1)\n25mm (make 2)\n20mm (make 1)\nNote: These are not the actual lengths of the tubes, but rather longer versions that will be sanded down later.\nThe video below shows how I cut the tubes using my Dremel 200.\nStep 3: Sanding the Tubes\nAll of the tubes from the previous step should be sanded to the lengths below.\nThe 45mm tubes should be sanded to 41mm.\nThe 34mm tube should be sanded to 29.4mm.\nThe 25mm tubes should be sanded to 22.7mm.\nThe 20mm tube should be sanded to 17.7mm.\nAll of this should be done in a vise and with a dremel.\nStep 4: Framework Assembly Pt. 1\nGlue the roller and roller shaft together and place it in one of the 3 holes on frame A with an arrow pointing to it and glue it in the hole. Repeat this 2 more times. Repeat this on frame B.\nStep 5: Framework Assembly Pt. 2\nUsing the pictures above as a guide, install the stepper motor into frame A using 2 M4 nuts and screws. After the motor is installed, take a small amount of masking tape and wrap it around the shaft of the stepper motor once. This will ensure that the shaft of the stepper motor will hold its gear tightly.\nStep 6: Framework Assembly Pt. 3\nInner frames A, B, and C can all be glued to the framework using the method depicted in the first 2 pictures.", "769" ], [ "To put the inner frames on, you should use one of the brass tubes to stabilize the frame when you glue it on to one of the main frames. The last picture shows where each of the inner frames should be once they are glued on. Frame A is on the right and frame B is on the left.\nStep 7: Framework Assembly Pt. 4\nGlue both frame C parts into the indents in frame A.\nStep 8: Gears Assembly\nThe photo above shows the tubes and the gears. Each gear is labeled. Directly above or below each shaft is its length. Next to each end of the shaft is the length of the amount of shaft protruding from the gear. Once you position the shaft, glue it in place. Repeat this for each gear.\nStep 9: Adding the Gears\nThe pictures above show the order in which to add the gears. It also shows the assembly of 60t-10t with a roller and a large roller. Use the last pictures as a reference to see where the gears and washers should go.", "226" ] ]

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[ [ "Upcycled RetroPhone Lamp\nIntroduction: Upcycled RetroPhone Lamp\nI've found an old phone on a flea market the other day and decided to build a lamp out of it. It turned out pretty nicely so I want to share the process with you. Please be careful with all the tools, do not mess with electricity unless you know the safety measures and realize the dangers.\nSupplies\n* Old phone\n* Goose neck (Microphone extension)\n* LED Lamp (5cmø 5w 230v 3300K Warm-White in my case)\n* 230v cord + EU plug\n* 230v Switch + 230v luster terminal\n* Duct tape, double-sided tape\n* nice to have : glue gun, pliers, wire stripper, drill, compasses, zip ties, cutter\nStep 1: Put on Your Safety Glasses\nBetter be safe than sorry! Besides, they look cool. At least, I hope so.\nStep 2: Disassemble the Phone and the Handset\nRemove the screws from the base panel, unplug the cables.\nUnscrew the covers of the speaker and the microphone, remove the magnets.\nStep 3: Drill the Hole for the Gooseneck\nStep 4: Prepare the Hole for the LED\nMy LED has a diameter of 5cm and it fits perfectly into the speaker of the handset. Note that the speaker and the mic covers are exchangeable and since the mic cover has a bigger perforated area, it is easier to cut a hole in there.\n* Take a compasses and set it at around 2,3cm, set the dull end into the center hole of the mic cover and scratch a circle into the plastic\n* Repeat the first step with the backside of the cover (remove the rubbery part, but do not throw it away!)\n* Deepen the circle scratch with a cutter\n* Drill the holes with a 10mm bit\n* Cut out the plastic with a wire cutter\n* Break out the rest of the plastic - if the circle scratch has been done properly, the plastic will break neatly\n* Clean up the edge with a cutter and a sandpaper\nStep 5: Put the LED in Place\nStep 6: Prepare the Wiring\n* Double the length of your gooseneck to get the right length of the power cable.", "98" ], [ "In my case it's 2 x 20 cm = 40 cm. The inner diameter of the gooseneck is only 4,8mm so it's a tight fit for the cable - I decided to take off the black cover and only put the blue and brown cables.\n* Strip the wires from both ends for about 5mm\nStep 7: Put the Wires Through the Gooseneck and Into the Handset\nThe original hole for the phone cable was a bit tight, so I had to drill through with an 8mm bit.\n* OPTIONAL - Drill a second hole below the main one. This will come in handy if you'd like to wrap the original black wire around the gooseneck like I did.\n* Secure the gooseneck both in the handset and in the base with nuts.\nStep 8: Secure the Wires With a Terminal\nThen close the cover\nStep 9: Drill a Hole for the Switch in the Base\nMy switch has a 10mm neck = 10mm bit works great\nIn my opinion, this switch looks best on the right front corner, but it really doesn't matter where you put it - just make sure the cables are long enough to reach it. I learned it the hard way ;)\nStep 10: Wire the Switch\nI usually put the brown wires into the switch and connect the blue cables with a terminal\nStep 11: Check on the Chicken - You Are Hungry and Don't Want to Burn It!\nLooks good. Back to work.\nStep 12: Test Drive\nIt works!\nStep 13: Dirty Harry\nLoad the glue gun and secure all the connections, wires, nuts, etc.\nStep 14: Almost There!\nStep 15: Optional - Wrap the Gooseneck With the Cable\nI like the look of the black phone cable more than the shiny metallic gooseneck, so I put a layer of black duct tape on the metal and then apply the double-sided tape on it. Then I tightly wrap the original black phone cable around the gooseneck.\nI also realized that the white of the switch did not fit into the color scheme and painted it black.\nStep 16: YAY!\nWell done: less plastic went into the landfills and now I have a cool lamp!\nIf you liked the build, let me know in the comments :)\nIf you feel a bit too lazy to make one of these, you can get a lamp like this from my shop.\nSupport and feedback will be appreciated ;)\nhttps://www.etsy.", "996" ], [ "Satellite Solar Charger\nIntroduction: Satellite Solar Charger\nWe are going to build a functional satellite model!\nThis build combines the two mini solar panels, a battery (needed for storage, and decent charging speed), and a circuit board, into a very usable sustainable power source in style.\nIt's easy to build, costs only about 20$ with all new parts, and will give you some free energy!\nSupplies\nTo buy:\n1. Solar panels: ~10$ (for 5)\nSunyima 6V 1W 132*48Mm\n(other 5.5V or 6V rated solar panels will also work, but need a custom 3d printed holder)\n2. Any 18650 battery: ~6$ (with a minimum lower than 2.9V - and a maximum at 4.2V)\nFor example Samsung cell\n3. Circuit Board: ~4$\nCircuit Board - Lilygo T-Bat for 18650 (CN3065 chip)\nAdditionally:\n* Soldering tools\n* Electrical tape\n* Glue (I use hot glue) / Gum / Dubbel-sided tape\n* 3D printer\n* Silver spray paint (silver-tape sticker will also work)\n* Wire\n* A small screwdriver\nStep 1: Warning Notes\nBefore we start, I want to make clear there are several risks involved. There are a lot of people making DIY power banks and most of the time no problems will occur. But if you start this build without knowing some of the basic electronics/ battery cell knowledge, I advise you to first look into the potential dangers to avoid serious hazards.\nSince this build uses a Lithium-ion battery, there is a potential risk of fire hazard. The board used has a protection system that should protect the battery from under-voltage or overvoltage, and protects against shorts. This takes away a large portion of the potential risk.\nStill, by wiring up the solar panels in the wrong way, using a wrong type of battery, or making another mistake, the lithium cell can be potentially dangerous. It is therefore wise to only start this build if you know basic electronics and know the dangers of lithium cells. Still, it is good practice to always test voltages, make sure not to leave the device unattended, and do some test runs.\nAdditionally, the charger can be a potential danger to the devices you want to charge. The used board has a protection system, but a malfunction could still lead to a larger voltage being applied at the device.\nStep 2: Electrical: Soldering the Solar Panels\nThe first step is to solder wires to the solar panels.\nThe plus and minus are assigned with little stickers, color-code your wires for extra safety.\nAfter soldering make sure to add a lot of tape, the connections should never be able to touch.", "267" ], [ "I even added a small dot of hot glue to the end, this acts as a little strain relief for the brittle solder connections.\nAfterwards, cut the wires to a length of about 7 cm (quite long, but this makes it easier to assemble).\nStrip the end to about 5mm, this will is used for the connection to the board.\nStep 3: Electrical: Connecting the Solar Panels\nNow the solar panels can be connected to the board. Make sure to retest polarity first, otherwise the board can be damaged!\nIf the polarity is good for both panels, we can add them to the board. First open up the screw terminals by twisting them with the small screwdriver. Start by adding either both red \"+\" wires or both black \"-\" wires together in the solar input. After tightening the screw, make sure to pull on both wires so you can test if they are connected strongly.\nRepeat this for the other two wires. Now your electrical circuit is almost done!\nStep 4: Electrical: Inserting the Battery\nStart again by testing the polarity of the battery. Add markings ( + and - ) right away. This makes sure you correctly remember the polarity.\nNow for the easiest step, check the markings on the PCB of the board. (Always check the PCB, the holder also has markings but is sometimes placed on mirrored). Push the battery in, and you're done with the electrical part of the build!\nStep 5: Mechanical: the Body\nAfter 3D printing the body parts, I am going to spraypaint them with silver spray to get more of a satellite look. Since the printed quality is quite rough, the first step is to sand the body parts on the outside.\nFirst I used sandpaper:120, afterwards sandpaper:600 to make it smooth. After spraypainting and letting the parts dry, the shiny silver look is done!", "996" ], [ "Plastic Pipe Lamp - LED 12V 4W - (\"Drainpipe Lamp\")\nIntroduction: Plastic Pipe Lamp - LED 12V 4W - (\"Drainpipe Lamp\")\nAfter a renovation in the bathroom were some pipe elements left. These had been lying in the basement for a few years now, waiting to be either disposed of or put to good use.\nWhen I heard about the contest \"Plastic Challenge\" here, I had the idea to make a lamp out of it. Here now comes the result!\nDimensions:\n* Height: 23.5 cm\n* Length: 13 cm\n* Width: 20 cm\nThe pipes are made of polypropylene (PP). Polypropylene is a thermoplastic material.\nSupplies\nThese were the parts that were messing around in my basement. I was able to use two parts of them for this project.\nTo build this lamp you need:\n* PP pipe repair joint with rubber sealing ring 130 x Ø 128mm (lamp \"head\")\n* Drain pipe 800 x Ø 40 x 1.8mm (\"legs\" and \"feet\")\n* Ø 110 mm polycarbonate twin-wall sheet, thickness 4mm or 6mm (or transparent polycarbonate glass)\n* a piece of tin plate 120 x 25 mm\n* 8x self-tapping screws Ø 4 x 20 mm\n* 2x self-tapping screws Ø 2,2 x 9,5 mm\n* 2x threaded screws Ø 2,5 x 10mm with matching nuts\n* 2x screws 30 x Ø 6mm\n* switch wire, ca. 15cm\n* Drills, Ø 2mm, Ø 7 mm, Ø 8 mm\n* 4 wingscrews Ø 6mm\n* 2 nuts Ø 6mm\n* 6 washers Ø 18 x Ø 6,5\n* 150 mm x Ø 6 mm from a threaded rod\n* Miter saw\n* Fretsaw\n* Metal saw\n* Soldering Iron\n* Solder\n* Sandpaper\n* Phillips screwdriver\n* piercer\n...", "582" ], [ "and for the electrics:\n* AC/DC Socket 5,5/2,1mm\n* 4G bulb socket\n* 2 Position Mini Toggle Switch\n* bulb, socket MR16/GU5.3, 12V 4W - IMPORTANT!: I do not advise the installation of a higher wattage bulb, because of too much heat development!\n* 12 V AC/DC power adapter\nAll these parts you can find here:\n* Bulb socket: 10 Stück MR16 GU5.3 MR11 GU4 Fassung 12V mit Kabel\nhttps://www.amazon.de/dp/B00279SBDA/ref=cm_sw_em_r...\n* Power adapter: LEICKE Netzteil 12V 2A | 12V 2000mA | Ladegerät 24W für LCD, LED-Streifen\nhttps://www.amazon.de/dp/B00LEFGDOM/ref=cm_sw_em_...\n* Power jack: HSeaMall 5,5 x 2,1 MM DC Power Jack Buchse 3 Terminals Buchse Panel Mount Stromstecker Adapter mit Staubdicht Kappe 10 STÜCKEvon HiBuyEU\nhttps://www.amazon.de/dp/B07D4DLJ69/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_M8NHG5TCTHWVKH32BX59?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1\n* Switch: ELEAR™ 10 X EIN/Aus Mini Miniatur Kippschalter Instrumententafel Wippschalter 2 Polig von Etocars\nhttps://www.amazon.de/dp/B01MXLZ7R1/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_K3WEQ7HS7ED846P3X2MY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1\nStep 1: Cut \"Legs\" and \"Feet\"\nNow you need a miter saw. Take a drain pipe 800 x Ø 40 x 1.8mm.\nSaw off 2 pieces of a length of 20 cm. One side at an angle of 60° and 4 pieces of a length 40 mm. One side also at an angle of 60°. Clean the edges with sandpaper.\nStep 2: Mounting \"Legs\"\nNow that all the parts are cut, you can start assembling. First you need to drill a few holes. The precise drilling of the holes on curves is not so easy, because the holes must be placed exactly at the highest point of the rounding.", "858" ], [ "Turn Your Broken HDD Into a Desk Clock\nIntroduction: Turn Your Broken HDD Into a Desk Clock\nSome times ago I used to help people to fix their PC. From that time, I was able to collect some broken HDD that I can never bring myself to toss them. Now I decided to reuse that broken HDD into a desk clock. Let's begin!\nSupplies\nIn this project you are going to need:\n* Broken HDD\n* Clock machine\n* Sticker paper\n* Jigsaw\n* Circular saw\n* Screwdriver\n* Cutter\n* Drill: 2 mm and 8 mm bits\n* LED strip\n* Soldering iron\n* White Mika film\n* Super glue\n* Hammer\nStep 1: Remove the Hard Drive\nOpen the top case of the hard drive. Next, disassemble all the components of the drive. Once you remove the top case, remove everything, but you need to keep the actuator arm & read/write head and data platters for later.\nStep 2: Clock Plate\nPrint the clock image on a sticker paper and stick it on the platter. Use 2mm drill bit to drill holes based on the clock image (download the clock image below).", "315" ], [ "Remove the sticker from the platters\nStep 3: Clock Machine\nUse the unused clock sticker to mark the size of the clock machine. Make a center point using a screw and a hammer. Use 8mm drill bit to drill holes. Use a cutter to help marking the cut line. Then, use a circular saw to hollow out the housing (to ease the cutting process) and use the jigsaw for the last step of cutting.\nNow it's time to insert the clock machine to the HDD housing, secure with super glue.\nStep 4: LED Installation\nNow it's time to add the Led to the clock. I used regular warm light, but you can use any led color even RGB Led. After making sure that the Led is working, stick the white mika film under the clock plate using double tape, then place it on the clocl machine.\nStep 5: Hour Hand\nI used the actuator arm & read/write head to replace the original hour hand from the clock machine. I used a grinder to cut and shape the hour hand.\nStep 6: Final Product", "259" ], [ "Paper Cone + Color LED Clock\nIntroduction: Paper Cone + Color LED Clock\nMy granddad was an electrical engineer and he always made amazing projects. He also made clocks from time to time (no pun intended), and I've always wanted to make one myself. After countless ideas that never made it past a sketch, I finally made one!\nIt's simple to build, easy to look at and a bit unusual. Use your phone to choose the colors, brightness and dimming time, without having to take the clock off your wall! It adjusts automatically to your time zone's summer/winter period.\nThe build is very simple:\n* a few soldering connections\n* loading the program onto the controller (NodeMCU) with Arduino\n* 3D printing the frame with quick / coarse settings\n* making the paper cone and disc with a circular cutter\nPower for the LEDs and the board is supplied through a USB charger with micro-USB connector.\nUsing a NodeMCU with Arduino reduces the circuit to the bare physical minimum: the LED strip, one resistor and one capacitor, and a few short wires. Notably it does not use a \"Real time clock\" (an extra chip and battery to keep time) - instead, it pulls the time from the internet every couple of hours and uses the onboard clock in between. All settings like color and scheduled dimming are handled by using the WiFi capability of this board: it serves a WiFi access point that a mobile device can connect to and send the settings. This data is stored persistently, so even if the power is cut off, it will remember your chosen settings.\nSupplies\n(Please note, below are affiliate links - I earn a commission from qualifying purchases at no cost to you).\nElectronics\nNodeMCU (Amazon)\nRGB LED strip WS2812B 100 LED / m (Amazon)\nResistor 330 Ohm\nCapacitor 100 uF\nUSB charger (Amazon) / white micro USB cable (Amazon)\nFrame and Dial\nBasic 3D Printer (at least 120x120 mm build area) (Amazon)\n50 g white PLA (Amazon)\nSolvent-based glue (Amazon)\nThick white paper (200+ gm/m2) (Amazon)\nCircle cutter (Amazon) [must-have for clean result!]\nCutting mat (Amazon)\nStep 1: Printing the Frame\nThe LED strip is 60 cm long (60 LED at 100 LED / m), which determines the basic diameter for the frame: 60 cm / 3.141 = 19.09 cm. Unfortunately that is too big for my small 3D printer so I split the frame into multiple segments that will be clipped together.\nThe frame consists of\n* 4x identical quarter circles\n* 2x connecting clips (side)\n* 1x connecting clip (top)\n* 1x connecting clip (bottom)\nYou can print them all at once if your printer is big enough, or print them one after the other.\nThe frame will be practically invisible, so don't worry about achieving perfect print quality. Just try to make sure that there is no steps at the joints, or otherwise the paper cover would warp unsightly when attached.\nI designed the parts in Onshape.", "769" ], [ "If you want to modify the design (different LED strips, different boards etc.) then you can clone it directly from this link.\nStep 2: Assembling the Electronics\nCount 60 LEDs on the strip and make a cut before and after. The strip has a direction: the signal from the NodeMCU can only travel in one direction along the strip. Be sure to cut leave the copper pads on so you can solder the wires to them.\nOn the end of the strip cut off the copper pads. That way you can wrap the strip around the frame and there is still a small gap to feed the wires through.\nMake the following connections\n* Red wire between VIN on the NodeMCU and VIN on the LED strip\n* Black wire between GND on NodeMCU and GND on the LED strip\n* Place the capacitor between the VIN and GND on the NodeMCU\nPull the wires through the hole in the frame and solder the connections directly to the pins of the NodeMCU.\nPlace the NodeMCU into its holder.\nRemove the double sided tape backing and wrap the LED strip around the frame.\nStep 3: The Code\nBriefly\n1. Download the code from Instructables or from my github.\n2. Open it with Arduino.\n3. Choose your board (mine is a \"NodeMCU 0.9\").\n4. Go to Tools > Library Manager and add the libraries\n1. ESP_EEPROM by <PERSON>2. FastLED by <PERSON>\n3.", "611" ], [ "PVC Tensegrity \"Pipe Burst\"\nIntroduction: PVC Tensegrity \"Pipe Burst\"\nTensegrity! An object made from drain pipe leftovers! It's a bit magical how the physical conditions create a tension that makes it a unit. At first sight a bit confusing ... you have to look twice to understand the principle.\nThe trigger for this project was the \"PVC“ - Speed Challenge!\nSupplies\nI still had some drain pipes left over from a bathroom renovation. For example a toilet bowl connection piece (Ø 110 mm), a wrong buy because the angle didn't fit ... and a lot of drain pipe pieces (Ø 40mm). Enough material to realise my idea!\nFurthermore, I needed\n* Metal saw\n* Miter saw\n* PVC glue\n* Sandpaper\n* Cutter knife\n* Nyon thread Ø 0.35mm\n* Preserving jar rubberring\n* Sewing needle\n* 4 screws Ø m 2.4 x 12 mm and matching nuts\n* Drill bits Ø 1mm and Ø 2,5mm\n* Screwdriver\n* pliers\nStep 1: Sawing Upper and Lower Ring\nFor this step I needed:\n* PVC pipe Ø 110 mm\n* Metal saw\n* Cutter knife\n* Sandpaper\nFrom the white connection pipe for toilet bowls (Ø 110mm) I sawed 2 rings of 30mm width.\nAs this pipe does not fit into my miter saw, I had to use a normal metal saw for it. It was not easy to saw absolutely right-angled with it. Then I cleaned the edges with a cutter knife and sandpaper.\nStep 2: Sawing and Glueing Pipes\nFor the next step I needed:\n* about 70 cm PVC pipe Ø 40 mm\n* Miter saw\n* Cutter knife\n* Sandpaper\n* PVC glue\nI sawed 2 tubes to size 175 mm length. One side straight cut (90°) and one side 45° cut and 2 tubes to size 115mm length. Both sides 45° cut.\nAgain, I cleaned the edges with a cutter knife and sandpaper.\nThen I glued the 45° side of the longer tube to one of the 45° sides of the short tube.", "582" ], [ "You have to make sure that it fits well! I did the same with the other two tubes. It had to harden for a few hours!\nStep 3: Drilling Holes Upper and Lower Ring\nNow I needed:\n* fine marker\n* Ø 1mm drill\n* Ø 2.5mm drill\n* piercer\nFor design reasons I decided to use a 5 thread tensegrity structure. One retaining thread and 4 threads for stabilisation. 3 threads for stabilisation would also have been enough, but I didn't think it was appropriate.\nWith the help of the drawing you can determine the points for the 4 holes for the nylon threads and the 2 points for the attachment to the tube. I placed one of the two rings on the drawing and marked the points with a fine felt pen at a height of 10mm on the ring.\nFirst I drilled the 4 holes for the nylon threads with a Ø 1mm drill and then the two holes for the attachment to the tube with a Ø 2.5mm drill (8mm from the edges of the ring). I prepared the drill points with a piercer!\nStep 4: Drilling Holes Pipes - Attachment to the Rings\nFor this step I needed:\n* fine marker\n* Ø 2.5mm drill\n* piercer\n* 4 screws Ø m 2.4 x 12 mm and matching nuts\n* pliers\nFirst I marked the two holes at a distance of 8 and 22mm from the edge (at the highest point of the rounding!). Make sure that the angle pipe is absolutely vertical.\nAfter I have drilled the holes I attached the ring to the tube with 2 screws Ø m 2.4 x 12 mm and matching nuts. Of course, you can also use a different screw size, but then you have to adjust the hole size accordingly.\nI did the same with the 2nd ring and the angle pipe.\nStep 5: Holes for Suspension Thread\nNow I needed:\n* fine marker\n* Ø 1mm drill\n* piercer\nIn order for the tensegrity principle to work, the holes must be set as precisely as possible. This means that the suspension thread should later sit exactly in the centre of the rings. As the rings have a diameter of 110mm, the centre is at 55mm. Accordingly, the drilling points must be set at the lowest or highest of the pipe (see drawing).\nStep 6: Attaching Suspension Thread\nFor this step I needed:\n* Nyon thread Ø 0.", "56" ], [ "PVC Pipe Lamp\nIntroduction: PVC Pipe Lamp\nPipe lights! You either love them or hate them.\nI have quite the collection of PVC pipes and clamps leftover from other projects and I'm in that group of people who loves pipe lights!\nThis is how I made a PVC pipe lamp with a faux metal finish for this PVC speed challenge.\nSupplies\nI already had everything I used in my workshop, so I didn't need to buy anything. I also live in Japan and all of the materials were purchased locally.\nHere's the list:\nPipe stuff\n-60cm of 16mm PVC water pipe\n-3x16mm elbow fittings\n-2x16mm end caps\n-2x16mm metal pipe clamps\n-2x65mm long pipe supports\n-PVC cement (glue)\n-PVC pipe saw\nWood stand\n-120cm of a 45x45 wooden post\n-Cemedine Super XG*\n*This is old multipurpose super glue I wanted to use up. Any wood glue will work.\n-One 4.2x75mm wood screw\n-Auger bit to make the hole for the screw used on the vertical piece of wood\n-WATCO Oil stain\n-Stain brush\n-Random orbit sander\n-Sandpaper #320, #240\nElectric stuff\n-4m of SPT-2/18AWG lamp cord\n-needle nose pliers\n-E26 screw in light socket\n-2 threaded cable grips\n-Gorilla super glue for threads\n-Panasonic plug\nPainting the pipes\n-Schuppenpanzer P\nI found this German paint in Japan and it is awesome!!\nIt's a quick drying film that can be sanded to an iron sheen. If it's unavailable in your area, try Rust-Oleum specialty paints for plastic.\nStep 1: The Base\nI had a 120cm/45x45 wooden post leftover from my Halloween projects. I cut it into five lengths.\nThe base is four lengths of 19.5cm and the vertical piece holding the pipe lamp is 40cm.\nI had half of tube of Cemedine Super XG glue leftover from a ceiling project I did last year and it doesn't keep well, so I wanted to use it up. I used an augur bit to make a hole to sink the 4.2x75mm wood screw. I glued all of the base lengths together followed by the vertical piece and finally the screw.\nCemedine Super XG is a one-part solventless, fast curing, highly durable super glue. It acts as contact cement on plastic too.\nStep 2: Sanding and Staining\nI sanded the base using a random orbit sander starting with #240 sandpaper and finishing with #320.\nI stained with WATCO medium walnut oil stain.\nStep 3: Pipe Supports\nI attached the pipes to the wood using two 65mm pipe supports and I used pliers to bend the ends to create a 90 degree angle.\nStep 4: Cutting the PVC\nMy only plan was to use as much of the stuff I had as I could.", "582" ], [ "I had three elbows and two end caps and this is what I came up with. What would you have created?\nStep 5: Wiring\nI had the lamp cord, light socket, cable grips and plug in the workshop already, all leftover from other projects.\nI started with drilling a hole in both of the end caps to screw in the threaded cable grips.\nI started by making a guide hole with a regular bit for the stepped bit. I made the hole just big enough to screw in the cable grips and added a drop of Gorilla super glue to the threads. The cable grips have a screw on cap and you'll need needle nose pliers to tighten the cap inside the PVC end cap on the end the socket is installed.\nOnce the light socket is on, feed the lamp cord through the pipes, cementing the pipes together as you work.\nThe second threaded cable grip is installed like the first. Cable grips stop the lamp wire from yanking out. If you drill the holes for the cable grips too big, don't worry. There's not enough room in the pipes to make a knot, so use a heavy duty zip-tie on the cord as a stopper inside the PVC end caps.\nI added the plug at the end of the project.\nStep 6: First Coat\nI attached the PVC pipe light to the wood and then painted on the first coat.\nThis paint has a heavy texture, so I was worried I wouldn't be able to fit the clamps on if I painted first. As you can see, I covered the clamps with painters tape and painting around them.", "56" ], [ "DIY LED Pendant\nIntroduction: DIY LED Pendant\nI made a small LED pendant with 8 neopixel LEDs. The pendant can be put in a chain or a bracelet, it also has a cavity at the back to put in a magnet. It has a micro USB port for changing the flashing patterns and looks like a regular pendant until the magic happens!! I programmed the LED's to flash a heartbeat-like pattern where the flashing LED jumps up the array with a longer gap between every two jumps.\nSupplies\nFor this project, I've used the following supplies:\n1. Adafruit trinket M0\n2. Adafruit Neopixel 8 RGB LED stick\n3. 3.7V lipo battery\n4. Soldering iron\n5.", "769" ], [ "Solder wire\n6. Wires\n7. 3D printer (with white filament for best results)\n8. Super glue (optional)\nStep 1: Building and Testing the Circuit\nThe circuit for this project is very simple.\nFirst, solder the wires to the data in side of the Neopixel stick ( It's important to solder on the data IN side). In order to keep the pendant compact, I did not solder the header pins on the trinket and soldered the wires directly on the board. Connect the ground of the Neopixel stick to the ground pin on the trinket, connect the 4-7V on the Neopixel stick to 3V on trinket M0, connect DIN to pin 2 on trinket.\nFor the battery connections, connect the ground of the battery to ground on trinket M0, connect the positive wire to BAT on trinket and THAT's IT!! YAYY\nUpload the attached code to the trinket and you're ready to go! (refer to this page if you are using trinket for the first time)\nStep 2: Printing the Pendant Enclosure\nThe two part enclosure has been designed with features to snugly fit all electronics.\nJust trim the wires short enough so that they fit in the enclosure and press the electronics against the walls to mount them. The two parts snap lock to each other but you also use a drop of super glue to make sure the pendant is closed properly.\nI 3D printed these files on my creality CR 10 with 0.16mm layer height and 35% infill. (since the parts are small, it is recommended to use finest quality settings for the print)\nStep 3: Complete!\nEnjoy wearing the pendant to a party or a concert! Play with the patterns and colors :)\nThe next steps for me on this project are to swap the trinket m0 with a board that also has a charging circuit for the battery or just attach a JSTconnector to the trinket for easy removal of the battery.", "635" ] ]

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[ [ "A Tribute to Yemeni Cuisine: Culinary Traditions in Ramadan · Global Voices\n<PERSON> one of Yemen's top food in Ramadan – CC Yemeniah Blog\nYemen is ”one step” from famine, pleads UN Special Envoy for Yemen <PERSON>, who notes that ”21 million people are in need of humanitarian assistance” due to the current conflict in the country. These are frightening figures when considering that the total population of Yemen is 24 million.\nA truce is being discussed during the holy month of Ramadan or what is left of it, to allow the 99-percent Muslim country to at least fast in peace. Ramadan is the ninth month in the Islamic calendar, during which Muslims fast in commemoration of when their holy book, the Quran, was first revealed to Prophet <PERSON>.\nBut long before the crisis and the conflict-hit the country, Yemenis used to enjoy Ramadan nights. The country was also famous for its cuisine, and this post is a tribute to the culinary traditions of Yemen during Ramadan. What is also interesting is that every city in Yemen has its own specialties even for Ramadan. So if you one day get the chance to be invited to an Iftar (fast-breaking meal) by someone originally from Aden, it might differ from if you were on a table prepared by someone from Sanaa and so on.\nLike many other Muslims, Yemenis first break their fast in the evening by eating dates, which have been known historically for helping people in the desert sustain long hot days as they are rich in calcium, phosphorus, iron, sodium, sulfur and chloride and various vitamins.\nThe dates are followed by soup and salad, and then the main meal. <PERSON> or Yemeniyah has a section dedicated only to Ramadan recipes on her food blog.\nThere, for instance, we can learn how to cook a shurbah baydah, literally meaning white soup or the Adeni oatmeal soup in reference to the city of Aden.\nWhile in the Yemeni capital Sana'a this soup is sweet, the <PERSON> variation is rather salty with curry and oatmeal. Copyrights reserved to Yemeniyah Blog\nShe says:\nThis is a staple during Ramadan. Very hearty soup, that is a meal in and of itself. In Sana’a they make it sweet and they add milk. But in Aden ours is very different and we make it either plain which we call Shurbah Baydha which literally means “White Soup” or we add a red sauce to it that we make with onions, tomatoes and spices and hence call it Shurbah Hamra meaning “Red Soup”.\nYou will need:\n1) 1/2 pound of lamb cut into small pieces with bone in [you can also use chicken which will cut down the cooking time]\n2) 2 cups of rolled oats [or you can use Old Fashioned Quaker Oats]\n3) 3 sticks of cinnamon\n4) 1/2 tblsp of peppercorns\n5) 1/2 tsp of curry powder\n6) 1/2 of a medium onion finely chopped\n7) 1 small tomato finely chopped\n8) Salt to taste\n<PERSON>, from the blog Sheba Yemeni Food’, shows us in this video how to make a Yemeni yogurt salad, which is spicy:\nFattah is a common main meal on a Yemeni table during Iftar.", "926" ], [ "As explained in the blog “ Yemen Food” it is made of:\nFatta, meaning crushed or crumbs, is a sort of bread soup made with pieces of the Yemeni bread bits mixed with meat broth and cooked vegetables making it soggy and mushy. As flatbreads quickly tend to get stiff when exposed to air, it is indeed a way of using stale bread. Fatta can also be made as a dessert with sweet ingredients including dates and honey. In Yemen, fatta is a common meal during the month of Ramadan.\n<PERSON> too shares with us the recipe of her own version on YouTube:\nAnother thing you are very likely to find on any table during Ramadan would be red meat. Try the lahma mahshoosha (lahma being meat in Arabic) using this recipe shared by <PERSON>:\nFirst wash and separate the fat from the meat. Cut the meat into small pieces. Heat the fat (if there is not a lot then add butter) in a pot over medium heat until it melts.Then add the meat, onions, garlic, spices and salt. Close the pressure cooker and cook for approx. 20 minutes or until the meat is tender. If you use a regular cooking pot, then the time will be longer, about an hour or so. NOTE: It is always necessary to use liquid with a pressure cooker, but in this case some juices will seep out of the meat to make enough liquid.", "94" ], [ "A Culinary Tour of Eid al-Adha Dishes Enjoyed Across the Middle East · Global Voices\nDates, walnut and pistachio-filled maamoul. Photograph taken by the author during Easter in Lebanon\nLike in any celebration, food occupies a central place during Islam's Eid al-Adha traditions, which took place over the weekend. Eid al-Adha or the Festival of Sacrifice culminates the Hajj season, which this year attracted 2 million pilgrims from around the world to Mecca.\nIn Arabic, Adha means sacrifice. During the Hajj ritual, Muslims around the world commemorate the day when <PERSON> was about to willingly sacrifice his son <PERSON>, before God asked him to sacrifice a lamb instead. It is therefore more than common to see a lamb meal served on the the lunch tables of Muslims on that day.\nDentist and food blogger <PERSON> shares her recipe for a roasted lamb leg both on her blog and YouTube channel:\nBut you cannot talk Eid al-Adha in large areas of the Middle East without mentioning maamoul.\nEid al-Adha is often referred to by Muslims as Eid al-Kabir (Eid meaning celebration and Kabir meaning important or big). Christians in the region refer to Easter as Eid al-Kabir too, with maamoul also being their most famous dessert.\n<PERSON>, an American married to a Palestinian, explains on her website Arabic Zeal how to make maamoul stuffed with dates. “These pastries are all about the dates. Use the best quality dates you can get,” she says before giving the ingredients and the recipe.\nOn her part, <PERSON> shares a YouTube video of how to make maamoul here:\nSpeaking of dates, Lebanese <PERSON> from Pearl's Powder greets her readers with photographs taken during her visit to the dates market in the holy city of Medina in Saudi Arabia. She described:\nExciting thing too see in this city are the Palms farms all around and this explains the plenty of dates shops.", "926" ], [ "Different kinds, different flavors and colors! It was like a “dates” heaven for those who love dates! This reminds me, who is excited for Mamoul this Eid?\nHappy Eid Adha! :)\nThe dates market in Medina. Photo originally taken by <PERSON> from the blog “Pearl's Powder” posted under Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 3.0 Unported License.\nSome sweets might not be typically intended for Eid al-Adha, but are welcome especially when presented with twist. Take knefeh for instance. <PERSON> from No Garlic No Onions culinary blog highlights chocolate knefeh and croissant knefeh he sampled in Lebanon.\nLebanese-American <PERSON>, blog owner of Taste of Beirut, shares another no less eccentric recipe: loukoum ice cream. Loukoum, more commonly known as Turkish Delight, is a sweet paste often mixed with nuts, pistachios and flavored with rosewater, mastic and other ingredients:\n4 SERVINGS\n2 cups vanilla ice-cream\n8 Loukoum, flavor of your choice\n1. 30 minutes before serving the ice-cream, cut-up the loukoum and mix it with the ice-cream; place back in the freezer. Serve in individual bowls.\nNOTE: I have noticed that the ice-cream ordered at restaurants ends up with the loukoum’s texture being too hard, which is why I’d try to do the mixing as close to serving as possible.\nWe continue our culinary trip to Morocco with <PERSON> and <PERSON>, who teach us how to cook Mrouziah, a caramelized meat cooked with dried raisins, on their H&L Recipes YouYube channel:\nEgyptians can't imagine their Eid meal without fatta to the extent that some of them have it for breakfast. But take note: the Egyptian fatta is different than the Levantine, made usually with chickpeas, onions, eggplants sometimes and yogurt.\nEgyptian fatta. Credits to the Blog “Julia Al Arab”\nUnder the the nickname <PERSON>, an Egyptian housewife and blogger gives us a step-by-step recipe for an authentic fatta a l'Egyptienne.", "851" ], [ "How to Make Egyptian Fava Beans \"Ful Medames\" Sandwich From Scratch\nIntroduction: How to Make Egyptian Fava Beans \"Ful Medames\" Sandwich From Scratch\nSandwiches are present in almost all cultures worldwide having a special trait of being easily eaten anywhere without making so much mess. In Egypt, a stew of cooked fava beans -or as Egyptian call \"Ful Medames\"- is considered the most popular breakfast dish, almost all Egyptians have Ful for breakfast as it is known for being high in protein and other nutrients, being completely vegan and giving a prolonged feeling of fullness around the day.", "567" ], [ "Ful can be eaten as a bread dip or in a sandwich. In this instructable, I am sharing with you my first time making Ful stew on my own and I encourage you to try it because it turned out delicious.\nSupplies\nFor the Ful stew:\n* 350 grams of fava beans.\n* 70 grams of peeled fava beans.\n* 50 grams of peeled red lentils.\n* 1 large tomato.\n* 2 cloves of garlic.\n* Beans cooking pot.\nFor the Ful seasoning:\n* 330 grams of cooked Ful.\n* 2 spoons of chopped dill and coriander leaves.\n* 2 spoons of finely chopped green pepper.\n* 2 minced cloves of garlic.\n* Juice of 1/2 a lime.\n* 1/2 a teaspoon of cumin powder.\n* A pinch of chili powder.\n* A pinch of coriander powder.\n* 1 teaspoon of salt or to taste.\n* 2 spoons of tahini.\n* 2 spoons of flaxseed oil.\n* A loaf of pita bread for the sandwich.\nStep 1: Soaking the Fava Beans\nBefore cooking the fava beans, it is a necessity to soak it, so :\n* Wash the fava beans.\n* Put them in the pot.\n* Cover them with water.\n* Soak them for 4-6 hours.\nStep 2: Preparing the Legumes\nAfter the fava beans are soaked:\n* Drain the beans in a strainer.\n* Rinse them under running water.\n* Add the lentils and the peeled beans to the strainer.\n* Rinse all the legumes.\n* Drain them.\n* Add them to the pot.\nStep 3: Cooking the Fava Beans\nAfter the legumes are ready in the pot:\n* Add 1 peeled tomato and 2 cloves of garlic.\n* Add boiling water.\n* Turn on the stove on high heat until the water boils again.\n* Turn down the heat to the lowest degree possible.\n* Check the pot every 2 hours to see if the stew needs water.\n* Add boiling water if the water is not sufficient in the pot.\n* Turn off the heat when the stew is done, it might take up to 8 hours\nStep 4: Seasoning the Ful\nTo the cooked Ful add:\n* 2 spoons of chopped dill and coriander leaves.\n* 2 spoons of finely chopped green pepper.\n* 2 minced cloves of garlic.\n* 1/2 a lime.\n* 1/2 a teaspoon of cumin powder.\n* A pinch of chili powder.\n* A pinch of coriander powder.\n* 1 teaspoon of salt or to taste.\n* 2 spoons of tahini.\n* 2 spoons of flaxseed oil.\nWhile adding the ingredients, mash and stir the mixture with a fork.\nStep 5: Making the Sandwich\nAfter the Ful is done, Now it is time to make the sandwich:\n* Open the pita bread from the side.\n* Add 2 filled spoons of the Ful.\n* Spread them inside the bread.\n* Close the sandwich.\nStep 6: Serving\nHere we are, the Ful sandwich is ready. You can serve it with leafy greens, vegetables, and pickles.\nBon Appétit or as we say in Egypt \"Belhana wel shefa\"", "0" ], [ "Hockey, Diving for Crosses and Other Christmas-in-January Traditions · Global Voices\nFor Christians of the Western hemisphere, Christmas comes a little earlier than for their counterparts in Eastern Europe, North Africa and other countries. According to the Gregorian calendar, one of many man-made concepts to measure time and the calendar the globe uses today, <PERSON> was born during the night between December 24 and December 25 just a little over 2,000 years ago. According to the Julian calendar, still used by many religious organizations in the world, those dates correspond to January 6 and January 7.\nAmong those who celebrate Christmas on those January dates are most Orthodox and Coptic Christians, from Eastern Europe to Egypt and Ethiopia. We called on the wonderfully diverse team of over 700 Global Voices authors to share their favorite local Orthodox and Coptic Christmas traditions and learned that the world is indeed a festive place, long after the Western world has taken down their Christmas stockings and stripped their Christmas trees.\n<PERSON> from Ethiopia explains how a game of hockey is the centerpiece in this North African country's Christmas celebrations:\nChristmas falls on December 29 of the Ethiopian calendar (January 7 according to the Gregorian calendar). Ledet (Christmas), it is celebrated seriously by a church service that goes on throughout the night after 43 days fasting known as Tsome Gahad (Advent), with a spectacular procession, which begins at 6 a.m. and lasts until 9 a.m. After the mass service, people go home to break the fast with the meat of chicken or lamb or beef accompanied with injera and the traditional drinks (i.e. tella or tej). Traditionally, young men played a game similar to hockey called genna on this day and now Christmas has also come to be known by that name.\nThe case in Serbia is far from similar, but followers of the Orthodox faith in Serbia, Montenegro, and Bosnia-Herzegovina celebrate Christmas Eve on January 6, the last day of the same 40-day fast observed in Ethiopia, and then break that fast on Christmas Day, January 7, with a similar family feast abundant with meats of all sorts and special Christmas dishes. Different regions of these countries have somewhat different traditions, but this author chose to share one particular tradition that the vast majority of Orthodox families still uphold in this part of Southeast Europe:\nOn Christmas Day, January 7 according to the Julian calendar, Orthodox Serb households welcome a young male or male child, called a Položajnik, into the house in the early morning.", "739" ], [ "The young male is usually a younger cousin, grandson or neighbor and he should be the first to enter the house that day. He brings in a wreath or bundle of small well dried oak branch tips, hay and such, called a Badnjak, with him and uses it to light the fire. In urban households, most of which don't have a fireplace, the stove is used to light the Badnjak. As sparks from the dried leaves and branches float around, he chants “As many sparks, that much health; as many sparks, that much wealth; as many sparks, that much love; as many sparks, that much luck…”, in no particular order. Different communities and families have their own versions of this ditty. The položajnik is considered a representation of health, prosperity and all things good. He brings luck, health, and love into the home. He then receives a gift from the family and joins them for Christmas breakfast.\nExpat blogger <PERSON>, better known as “An Englishman in the Balkans”, posted this video explaining the traditional breaking of the Christmas bread, known as the Česnica, on Christmas day in an Orthodox home in Bosnia. The Česnica, however, takes on different shapes throughout the region and in the Vojvodina region of Serbia, for example, is very sweet, resembling baklava more than bread.\nThe traditional Christmas greeting in Serbia, Bosnia-Herzegovina, and Montenegro is “<PERSON> is born!”, to which the proper response is “Truly He is born”. Coincidentally, Lebanon, a country relatively far from Eastern Europe, now uses the same Christmas greeting. <PERSON> explains:\nIn Lebanon … its becoming more and more trendy to say the formula you just mentioned as in reaction to the secularization of Christmas\nWhile usually we used to say that in Easter – <PERSON> is risen, Indeed he is risen – now we also say [it on] Christmas – <PERSON> is Born, Indeed He is born.\nLebanon seems to be a particularly special case when it comes to calendars and Christmas celebrations, with a plethora of faiths and traditions truly all its own.", "260" ], [ "Saudi Arabia: Traditional menswear revitalised – meet the iThobe · Global Voices\nThe traditional apparel for men in Saudi Arabia is a long white garment called a thobe. Recently a number of designers have been transforming the look of the thobe by adding colour – even designing an iPod-friendly iThobe. What is the verdict of bloggers on the new styles?\n<PERSON> of Crossroads Arabia comments on an article just published by The Washington Post about changes in thobe design:\nThe Washington Post reports that the dour uniformity of the white Saudi thobe is facing revolutionary pressure from a new fashion designer. What’s more, the ruling family is throwing its support behind him. I found it interesting that the designer, <PERSON>, claims that the white thobe is a relatively recent development to Saudi culture and that previously there was much more variety in men’s wear. He reportedly showed early photographs to the King to back up his claims. That got him the support he needed against religious conservatives who were convinced that he was trying to destroy the culture. Interesting read, particularly when taken along side the trend for Saudi women to break free of their plain black abayas.\n<PERSON> of Saudi Jeans welcomes the new designs:\nAs men in Saudi Arabia are usually dressed either in black – for women – or white – for men –, I usually try to appreciate the moments when I’m abroad and enjoy the colorful clothes people wear, spending much of my free time walking down the streets and observing others. That’s why I was glad to see my friend <PERSON> elegantly profile Saudi fashion designer <PERSON>, the man who put color back in menswear here. His boldness also inspired others like <PERSON> and <PERSON> to redefine the traditional Saudi garb.", "926" ], [ "However, and from what I have seen, it seems that young Hjiazi men [from the western region] are embracing the new trend more than their counterparts in Najd [central region], which is to be expected as people in the central area are more conservative. Although I only wear a thobe occasionally as I prefer my casual outfit of jeans and t-shirts, I personally like the idea of updating the thobe with new styles and colors, and I plan to get myself one of those cool Lomar thobes in the near future. The problem is that they are relatively expensive, as their creators admitted, but I think it is worth getting them for special occasions.\nLast month Jordanian blogger <PERSON> who blogs at Sha3teely visited Saudi Arabia, and posted some of his impressions:\nThe Saudi culture is one of the most amazing and interesting cultures I have ever seen. I believe it is one of the most controversial urban environments in the modern world. The war between traditions and modernity, rules and freedom, religion and globalization, wealth and achievements. The place where you can do everything but you are not allowed to do anything…\nHe comments on the new fashions:\nAnother interesting thing is the concept of the Lomar Thobe. I found it really amazing where young Saudi designers are trying to develop new modern, cool trends based on their culture and traditional customs. The concept of merging the new, cool and hip with the traditional thobe to represent the needs of the new generation of young Saudis is really genuine and extraordinary. I wish that we can see this somewhere in the upper part of the Middle East. … Take a look at the ithobe designed specially for the ipod and the other interesting collection which they have. The Lomar thobe is originally comes from Jeddah and its spreading all over the kingdom.", "926" ], [ "Bahrain: When Only Illegal Prawns Will Do · Global Voices\nFreedom of speech is always a hot topic in Bahrain, and we start this week by looking at some of the apparent contradictions in official policy. <PERSON> tells us:\nThe internet has always been the alternative “peoples media” when it came to news of the political standpoints of local issues. Blogs and Forums are very widely spread around the country; typically every small village has a forum of its own, usually used to announce news of public social events like marriages, deaths and such, others are very wide in content and extend over political and religious debate to offer semi-live coverage of protests, marches and clashes with the local police, shedding a light of truth on the local congested political scene that is typically either ignored or marginalized by the public press.\n<PERSON> has found more and more instances of violence being promoted on such forums, and he asks why opposition leaders who do not endorse such activities are threatened with legal action, yet:\nViolence and sectarian divides are being provoked before our own eyes on the internet, what are they doing against it?\n<PERSON> also examines the ‘inciting hatred’ charge that he claims is thrown at opposition leaders so quickly:\nOkay, talk – against another old adage – is not cheap in Bahrain. It can cost you your freedom!\n<PERSON> addresses what she says is Bahrain's ‘culture of impunity':\n…our government, and pro-government parties, have been trying consciously to blur any memories of government oppression or conspiracy in fear of damaging the perfect picture of a unified, proud Bahrain, and their own image of benevolence. … All nations have moments in their history that make them feel especially proud. All of them have moments of shame as well. In order to foster healing and “real” unity, Bahrain cannot afford to continue on this path of “unaccountability” and denial.\nCradle of Humanity was shocked this week by an acquaintance buying a huge amount of prawns illegally caught out of season, ostensibly for religious reasons:\nWhy did he buy 70 kilograms of illegally fished prawns when he certainly did not have to? Not for business, I know that much for sure.\n“But it is prawns reproduction season. You are practically not letting the prawns reproduce”. “We cook prawns Machboos every year on the commemoration of Imam Ali’s death. Whenever I have that quantity of prawns available I have to snatch it and stock it”.\nNow his reasoning not only made me feel worse, but rather appalled. That occasion is supposed to be a spiritual one, a religious philosophy celebrating sacrifice, fighting for the cause and devotion.", "289" ], [ "How that can mandate fishing prawns when it is endangering our ecological system is beyond me. Now I did not only feel bad for the poor prawns, but also for the poor occasion.\nCould not your Machboos be lamb or chicken? Could you not wait at least, with the occasion being four months away (21st Ramadan)? How about dried prawns – popular for Machboos in Bahraini cuisine? … With such a mentality about marine life, are we really expecting the government to respect and preserve our environment, and not destroy our Fashts (coral reefs) or reclaim our sea?\nSilly Bahraini Girl has left Bahrain after coming back for a holiday and family visit, and is back at home in Canada. She says:\nIsn't it sad that I am happy to be back ‘home’ – a home which is zillions of light years away from where my heart is?\nI am back to the safety and comfort of my pad in Canada and I can say I am content and happy here. I strangely feel safe and secure. I am also more in touch with Bahrain virtually. … I also have all my sisters and friends online … and they are actually making the effort to chat to me. Even my nephews and nieces are talking to me and giving me undivided attention as they speak directly into the mic .. to tell me how my Arabic accent sucks.\nMy four-year-old niece had the nerve to tell me that although she fully understands my Ba7rani (Bahraini Shi'a) accent.. she will not speak it. She explained to me that I say: nadheef (clean) and not nedheef! That I say erjoool (leg) and not iryool! That I say wajed (a lot) and not wayed!! and the list goes on!\nAs a compromise, she said we better communicate in English from now onwards .. as that is a common language we both understand. … What a world we live in!\nMore from Bahrain – and Bahrainis around the world – next week!", "297" ], [ "Egyptian Cottage Cheese With Green Pepper and Baladi Bread\nIntroduction: Egyptian Cottage Cheese With Green Pepper and Baladi Bread\nI live in a village in Egypt where there is a wide variety of healthy breakfast choices such as homemade dairy products and fresh vegetables that local farmers grow, and because I am also interested in food art, I decided to make use of Areesh cheese - Egyptian cottage cheese - and fresh veggies to make this savory Ice cream.\nSupplies\n* 150 gram of areesh cheese.\n* 2 green peppers.\n* 1 tiny red pepper.\n* 1 green chili.\n* 1 red chili.\n* 1 green onion.\n* 1 teaspoon of olive oil.\n* 1 loaf of baladi bread.\n* Salt.\n* Some rocket leaves.\n* Mortar and pestle.\n* A knife.\n* Scissors.\n* A tablespoon.\n* A fork.\nStep 1: The Green Ice Cream\nTo make our pistachio ice cream, I mean Areesh cheese with green pepper we should:\n* Add one teaspoon of olive oil to the areesh cheese.\n* Mix them well with a fork.\n* Chop one green pepper, one green chili and rocket leaves into the Mortar and pestle.\n* Add a pinch of salt to the veggies.\n* Crush them well with the pestle until they are homogenous enough.\n* Stir the mix with some Areesh cheese.\nStep 2: The Pink Ice Cream\nIt's so to dye the cheese in pink:\n* Cut small pieces of beetroot on some areesh cheese.\n* Mix them well until the cheese turns pink\n* Remove the beetroot pieces.\nStep 3: Ice Cream Cone\nTo make the ice cream cone, we can use Egyptian flat bread, which is Known as baladi bread:\n* Cut a triangle out of the round loaf.\n* Cut it into two smaller triangles.\n* Put them on top of each other.\nStep 4: Adding Ice Cream in the Cone\nNow it's time to fill our cone with these savory ice cream scoops:\n* Add a tablespoon of plain areesh cheese on the upper part of the bread.\n* Add a larger amount of the green and the pink cheese respectively.\n* Make the scoops look like they are melting on each other.\nStep 5: Cherry and Sprinkles\nFinally, it's time for our ice cream toppings:\n* Put a tiny red pepper on top.\n* Chop the brown part of a green pepper into small rods.\n* Sprinkle the pepper rods on the pink part of the cheese.\n* Chop the green onion into round pieces.\n* Add them to the cheese with green pepper.\nStep 6: Enjoy!\nNow you can enjoy this extremely \"healthy\" and tasty ice cream as a breakfast without any guilt.\nBon Appetit!", "265" ], [ "Brunei: Great Tasty Tour goes East Asia · Global Voices\nTwo Spanish Foodie Bloggers, <PERSON> and <PERSON>, are currently on a gastronomy tour in East Asia for some ten months. They left their jobs and much of their belongings behind due to their strong interest to learn more about Asia, its people, culture and history via food. They are currently in the Republic of Korea and intends to return to Spain in October 2010, where they hope to produce a series of videos about their adventure. Blogging in Spanish, The Great Tasty Tour documents their journey to the many countries in the region. What amazes me about the Spanish couple was their passion for food and getting to understand the local culture. I personally caught up with the couple during their Brunei leg of journey last December 2009. Read about them on Brunei Times but it was my affiliation with <PERSON>, who informed me on the Great Tasty Tour's intention to meet local foodie bloggers. Together with <PERSON>, we took them to various foodie joints in the capital, including the infamous Gadong Night Market.\nAnother local blogger, <PERSON> invited the two Spanish foodie bloggers to his restaurant and blogged about their visit.\nIt was a great opportunity to meet <PERSON> and <PERSON> blogger from Spain, who are currently travelling in East Asia, to document their gastronomy travels and spending their New Year with us recently. They both speak some English, so we are able to communicate with one another. They both spoke about Brunei and are happy to be here for a short stay and discovering many thing about our food. Here are some of the videos taken by them at the recent visit to our Brunei Restaurants with Great Tasty Tour.\nI asked <PERSON> and <PERSON> a couple of questions about the whole idea of the foodie trip.\n1. What is your background story for the Great Tasty Tour?\nWe have always had a dream, to know the East Asian cuisine. Firstly, because when we visited some countries in this part of Asia almost four years ago, we fell in love with its food and its people. We wanted to investigate what people in these countries eat, also where they eat and why. It was our great dream and is becoming a reality.\n2. What is the inspiration to tour Asia and try the food?\nOur inspiration came from the trip we did in 2007. We visited French Polynesia, New Zealand, Brunei, Indonesia, Singapore, Hong Kong, Australia, China and Japan.", "340" ], [ "The truth is that we fell in love with the flavors of Brunei, Padang food and Chinese. We had the need to further develop the theme and give it to meet the people.\n3. How has the trip changed you, especially your perceptions of Asian Food and people? Do you miss home?\nLife changes because we have had the opportunity to meet so many different cultures, we see all life more simple and the material thing loses value, feelings will be with us forever. We have discovered the true kindness in the people of many East Asian countries, especially in Indonesia, Brunei, Malaysia, Taiwan and China. Maybe is because in those countries, people love their food and love sharing it with us. Also in these countries, it has been easier to record our documentary because they understood our passion.\nWe do not miss our house because we are doing what we love, in fact we miss countries where we would have liked to spend more time eating and enjoying their meals and spend time watching quietly. (You know we would like spend more time in Malaysia, Brunei and Indonesia, they have been the big discovery for us.)\n<PERSON> and <PERSON> in Bruneian traditional costume. Photos reproduced with permission from Hyperclicks\n4. What have you learned in Brunei?\nIn 2007 we were in Brunei for five days. In 2010 we were in Brunei for 14 days, and we learned many things. A country that is different from the rest of the world and better. When we visited for the first time we feel very good, there was something special in people, and we felt happy there. We savored the unimaginable, but the best of the food in Brunei is not the taste, or cheap price, it is that people love it. What we have learned from Brunei is the love of food, any food, more or less simple, more or less special, they love the food, and then the food is good. It was also very easy with the help of the people of Brunei (you know).\nBrunei is a different country where foreigners feel at home. We don´t know why, but that is the truth.\n5. Food from which country interest you the most?\nWe have investigated the cuisine of eleven countries in East Asia, and all are interesting because the food of a country is its culture.", "297" ] ]

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[ [ "Caribbean: Thank You, Dr. <PERSON> · Global Voices\nToday, the United States marks Martin Luther King Jr. Day – a floating holiday which celebrates the birthday of the late civil right leader. The occasion resonates with Caribbean bloggers, both at home and throughout the diaspora and a few of them share their thoughts…\nJamaican litblogger <PERSON>, who lives in Miami, Florida, acknowledges the impact that Dr. <PERSON>'s “Letter from Birmingham Jail” has had on his life, noting that his latest book “include[s] a few of the lessons that [he] had learned from reading and teaching Dr. <PERSON>'s letter to [his] undergraduate students at Miami Dade College”. He calls Dr. <PERSON>'s letter “one of the great moral texts of the twentieth century, [which] should be required reading in the training of young minds.”\nCuban diaspora blogger <PERSON> put his tribute into “a little photo and video montage”, made from images he took during a visit to The King Center in Atlanta, Georgia. His compatriot, Notes from the Cuban Exile Quarter, also acknowledges the importance of the day:\nThe critiques against <PERSON> and nonviolence are of importance today because around the world in Egypt, Tunisia, Burma, Cuba and elsewhere movements have emerged that are inspired by <PERSON>'s example of nonviolent struggle. In the United States elements within the Occupy Wall Street movement have embraced <PERSON> and are organizing acts of remembrance on his birthday.\nIn the U.S.", "192" ], [ "Virgin Islands, Live De Life uploads a video of <PERSON> performing the “Ballad of Martin Luther King”, saying:\nFigured this was appropriate for the holiday.\nFinally, Afrobella posts a heartfelt “thank you” to Dr. <PERSON>…”for everything”:\nDr. <PERSON> was assassinated 44 years ago, and in the sands of time it is easy to forget that Dr. <PERSON> was a real person. A man with a beautiful wife and family. A man who became the public face of a movement. A man who tirelessly worked, marched, got arrested, spoke eloquently on the topics of peace, love, and justice — and ultimately gave his life to the cause of racial equality.\nThank you, Dr. <PERSON> Jr. Without you, who knows where we would be today.\nThe thumbnail image used in this post, “Martin Luther King, Jr. Portrait”, is by ctankcycles, used under an Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 2.0 Generic (CC BY-NC-SA 2.0) Creative Commons license. Visit ctankcycles’ flickr photostream.", "192" ], [ "Caribbean: <PERSON> & the Nobel Peace Prize · Global Voices\n<PERSON> can now add another prestigious title to his already impressive resume: Nobel Laureate. Saying he was “humbled” by the honour, which was bestowed upon him in part because of his role in meeting the challenges of global climate change, in part – in the words of the Nobel Committee – “for his extraordinary efforts to strengthen international diplomacy and cooperation between peoples”, <PERSON> considers the award a “call to action”. Still, the announcement has left some Caribbean bloggers asking questions…\nLetters from Grenada writes:\n<PERSON> won the Nobel Peace Prize. That’s so damn beautiful my nipples are hard.\nThen I sent my brother a text message telling him the news. He texted me back. ‘For what? Ending Iraq? Ending Afghanistan? Closing Gitmo? Making universal health care a reality? Ensuring our right to electronic privacy?’\nShe continues:\nListen. <PERSON>’s not perfect. I know a lot of people who support him are disappointed by some of the things he has not accomplished. I just want to remind everyone that the Nobel Peace Prize is an international award. It has nothing to do with our domestic concerns.", "941" ], [ "And if you don’t think <PERSON> has made an enormous difference in our image on the international scene, if you don’t think he’s given people all over the world hope enough to dream of a better tomorrow…then I just don’t know what.\nBarbados Free Press, meanwhile, wonders whether the whole thing is “too much, too soon”:\n<PERSON> has been awarded the 2009 Nobel Prize for what he believes, and the hope people have in him – not for what he has accomplished or even tried to accomplish.\nYou might want to remember that <PERSON> was nominated for the prize in February of 2009 after serving less than two weeks as President.\nAs I write this the announcement from Oslo is only an hour old and thus far the overwhelming response from the world has not been congratulations, but puzzlement and concern that the always-politicized Peace Prize has now become even more a political tool designed to influence policy rather than a prestigious award in recognition of efforts that changed the world.\nLiving in Barbados adds:\nTruly Amazing. Perhaps premature. Remember that nominations closed two weeks after Senator <PERSON> became president. Nice work, if you can get it.\nWe do live in interesting times.\nBloggers from the Cuban diaspora were less diplomatic about their reactions. Blog for Cuba calls it just another example of the “Orwellian world we now live in”, while <PERSON> says:\nPLEASEEEEEEEE! Give me a break. How does the man who drops drone delivered bombs into the living rooms of innocent children in his undeclared war on the tribal areas of Pakistan get a peace prize?\nBut Along the Malecon takes a different view:\nThis is something else. A real stunner.\nSeeing the Nobel prize go to <PERSON> underscores that the American president has been busy with huge and important global issues – and he has made progress.\nU.S.-Cuba relations seems minor when compared to some of the other issues <PERSON> has tackled.\nIt is heartening to see that the international community once again has respect for our president.\nIt's sad to see that so many Americans don't appreciate how exceptional <PERSON> is.\nCaribbean diaspora blogger <PERSON> first heard the news on Twitter:\nWhen I woke up this morning I checked my twitter feed and everyone was going ‘<PERSON> awarded a Nobel, WTF?’\nSo did I (much like <PERSON>, here). While I agree it’ll probably be a liability in terms of the criticisms that he’s a celebrity president and so on, I’m actually cracking up about this because of the completely predictable response from the GOP party machine and spokespeople: instant condemnation. Like celebrating the failure to host the Olympics just because it was a cause <PERSON> championed. You see, when else will the Republican party line up in complete and utter agreement with Hamas (<PERSON> points out below I may have gotten that quote out of context, so grain of salt for Hamas there) and the Taliban and various terrorist groups that are anti-American?\nFellow diaspora blogger <PERSON> has been listening very closely to the entire debate and quips:\nYou hear that? It's the collective sonic boom of republican heads exploding.\nBack in Barbados, Cheese-on-bread! is firmly in the pro-Obama camp:\nOf course the US networks are falling over themselves asking if he deserves this honour.", "691" ], [ "Caribbean: Supporting Our Mothers · Global Voices\nMother's Day, celebrated this past weekend all across the Caribbean, was a hot topic of discussion with regional bloggers – or rather, mothers were. From posts of admiration and thanks to accounts of how women regularly defy oppression, it was a mixed bag, but one that mothers everywhere would have been happy to sample from…\nTo mark the occasion, TALLAWAH “rang up a few Jamaican celeb moms to get responses to the day’s most pressing query: Is having a child the best thing you’ve ever done?” The responses are worth a read.\nCompatriot <PERSON>, Unscripted referred to her mother as “the epitome of self-sacrifice”:\nWe’ve had our share of ups and downs, and butted heads on some occasions. Yet, at the forefront of my mind, despite all that we’ve been through, I always remember everything she has given to us, simply because she cares.\nShe also took time to acknowledge “all the mothers, mothers-to-be, grandmothers and greats, the fathers who have a double role as mothers, and the mothers whose children grew in their hearts instead of their wombs”:\nWherever you are on this planet, I give thanks for you and your bright legacy. Know that you are blessed, honoured, loved.\nGuyanese-born Tastes Like Home echoed her sentiments:\nThank you for loving me.\nThank you for caring about me.\nThank you for listening to my rants.\nThank you for supporting me.\nThank you for encouraging me.\nParenting is such a huge responsibility and I admire the grace with which you balance your life, work and everything else in-between. I join in the chorus of applause and salute you on this your very special day.\nOver at My big, fat, Cuban family, the blogger's kids apparently logged in and shared some of the most meaningful things their mom has taught them over the years – from “[having] great adventures” to “[being] fearless.” Cuban bloggers were by far the most vocal about the sacrifices mothers – and women on the whole – have to make. Havana Times published an account of “a Cuban mother's drive”…\nWhen you have a child who looks up at you in desperation and says: ‘Mommy, I’m hungry,’ and you know full well that two salaries aren’t enough to satisfy that basic request…then you’ll know where my strength comes from.\n…but balanced the perspective in another post that explains why motherhood is so rewarding:\nMost of all there are the kisses, the kisses and hearing ‘I love you, mommy.’ Those are the things that make me remember that being a mother is no sacrifice.", "941" ], [ "Motherhood is simply a blessing.\nSo why aren't Cubans having more babies? This post offered some insight. Pedazos de la Isla uploaded a video tribute to Cuban women, explaining:\nOn Mother’s Day 2012, a number of Cuban mothers- most of them members of the Ladies in White- have been arrested and beaten by the Cuban political police, and yet they continue carrying out their activities and RESISTING against the repression.\nThese face harassment, acts of repudiation, beatings, and arrests for demanding the rights of an entire nation. Regardless, they still find time to protect and educate their children and families. They are examples of courage and inspiration.\nNotes from the Cuban Exile Quarter reported on a march in honour of the memory of <PERSON>:\nDespite threats, harassment, and scores of women detained by State Security 68 Ladies in White following mass walked through Fifth Avenue in the west of Havana. They marched and chanted ‘Viva Laura Pollán!’ and ‘Freedom for the political prisoners!’\nThe blogger (along with others) went on to describe several cases of women being detained and threatened, adding:\nIt is also important to remember that Cuban mothers are spending Mothers Day in prison for defending the human rights of the Cuban people.\nHaiti <PERSON>, meanwhile, spared a thought for <PERSON>, explaining:\n<PERSON>, mother of <PERSON>, released a public service announcement…timed for Mother’s Day this [past] weekend, asking viewers to ‘call the governor of your state’ and encourage them to reconsider ‘Stand Your Ground’ laws like the one cited by the man who killed her son.\nTrinidadian diaspora bloggers also marked the occasion, albeit in different ways. Fashion blogger <PERSON> gave a few suggestions for the best Mother's Day gifts (hint: stay away from the irons!", "271" ], [ "Caribbean: Thanks, Dad! · Global Voices\nFather's Day, that worldwide celebration honouring dads and their important role in the family dynamic, is marked in the Caribbean on the third Sunday of June and regional bloggers posted en masse yesterday for the occasion. From the eloquent to the irreverent, here's what they had to say…\nJamaican diaspora blogger <PERSON> noticed that the “rain lilies had once again bloomed after the long, dry season that we’ve had in South Florida”, explaining that those particular flowers had a special significance for him because they reminded him of his dad:\nI did not know my father, <PERSON>, very well. I was his tenth child from four marriages, so the time that I spent with him was always important to me. In the brief times that I spent with him…I realized that he was a charming, brilliant man…\nOur family started <PERSON> get-togethers which were prompted (sadly) when we found out that our father was ill. My favorite memory of that time was sitting on the verandah with my father and eating roasted corn, smelling the mixture of rain and earth before the showers came tumbling down Long Mountain, watching him fall asleep as the rain fell, and realizing in that moment that even though he might soon not be with us, that everything was irie.\nAll was not forgotten, but forgiven. I was walking with him in the lane at the back of the house, he pulled up a rain lily, handed it to me, and said, ‘There, you can’t say I never gave you anything.’ And he laughed. The old devil laughed. And all I could do was laugh and tell him that I loved him.", "820" ], [ "He said, ‘I know.’\nSo, whenever the rain lilies bloom at my front door, I remember my father and those brief moments we had together—which were as brief and miraculous as the appearance of rain lilies—and I give thanks.\nAnother Jamaican living in the U.S., <PERSON>, who admits his parenting skills are “a work-in-progress”, used the opportunity to acknowledge the efforts of his own father:\nAs I comb through my memories, I can see vividly the many things my father did for me, but I will try to synthesise them into a few lessons, on to which I try to hold in my efforts to be a good father.\nHe showed me that fathers and mothers should be equal partners in raising a child.\nI thank him for showing me the value of consistency in parenting. I thank him for always keeping his word. He never promised more than he could deliver.\nHe explained to me that discipline is learning what is the right thing to do; it is not imposed. He explained that being a parent is a lifetime occupation…Thank you, Daddy.\nIn stark contrast, <PERSON> reported on Jamaica's “own brand of incomprehensible Father’s Day exuberance when popular singjay <PERSON> the day with: Big up to all a the fathers dem inna prison weh kill a man fi dem yute. I would too.”\nGirl With a Purpose, meanwhile, called fatherhood “a very special period in a man's life where he truly learns to give of and extend himself outside of himself to other human beings that he brought into this world”, and went on to interpret several Biblical passages on the role of husbands and fathers, saying:\nTo truly understand what God expects of fathers, we need to go to the human race's owner's manual – the Bible.\nFather's Day greetings from members of the Cuban diaspora were imbued with calls for freedom. El Cafe Cubano thanked his father “for always being there…and for setting the example of the importance of family”:\nOne of the reasons I do this blog is for you. I cannot FREE Cuba for you, but I will do everything I can to try to FREE Cuba.\n<PERSON> thoughts were also “with the incredible Cuban fathers who have done so much and sacrificed everything for their children to live in freedom”:\nThere are too many Cuban fathers who are not with us today because they gave their life struggling for the freedom of their country and liberty for their families and all Cubans. Let us remember them and thank them on this day, offering a special prayer for their families. They gave their lives not only so their children would have an opportunity to live in freedom, but so their countrymen could as well.", "192" ], [ "Caribbean: <PERSON> Does It Again! · Global Voices\nOlympic gold medalist and world record holder in the 100 and 200 meter events, Jamaican <PERSON>, sprinted to an even more impressive victory this past weekend at the IAAF World Championships in Berlin, clocking 9.58 seconds to beat his own record. Regional bloggers are in a celebratory mood, particularly in Jamaica…\nLife, Unscripted, on the Rock unabashedly says:\nMi glad bag buss!\nBIG UP, <PERSON> and <PERSON>. <PERSON> scorched, and <PERSON><PERSON>, who took home the bronze for Jamaica in a time of 9.84] showed us what he’s made of.\nCongratulations are also due to all the Caribbean participants on a job well done.\nAbeng News Magazine writes of the victory:\n<PERSON> sizzling 9.58 sec world record 100 meters run on Sunday gave Jamaicans one more reason to celebrate, despite the tough economic times facing the island.\nThe significance of the achievement is not lost on The Phoenix in a Gas House:\nOne day <PERSON> is going to do something that a normal human being might do. He'll spill his tea, or drop his chicken nuggets, or trip over his shoelaces.\nOne day. For now, he astonishes and astounds with everything he does.\nAlmost exactly 73 years ago in this Olympiastadion, <PERSON> produced an athletic performance that made sporting history.", "641" ], [ "Before Sunday night, it seemed impossible that anyone could ever match those deeds.\nThat was before 9.58 seconds. That was before <PERSON> landed.\nThe greatest 100m in history? Surely. The greatest sprinter ever? Unquestionably.\nGirl With a Purpose, meanwhile, is “still amazed…in wonderful shock and awe!” – Stunner's Afflictions adds:\nOnce again the man dubbed the fastest man on earth has proven why he got that title and in fine style.\nBloggers from Trinidad and Tobago also put in their two cents’ worth. Trinidad and Tobago News Blog calls the win “amazing” and ttgapers.com says:\n<PERSON> proved again he races in a world all his own.\nThe thumbnail image used in this post, “Puma press ad in honour of <PERSON> world records at Beijing”, is by teemus, used under a Creative Commons license. Visit teemus’ flickr photostream.", "641" ], [ "Barbados: A Final Farewell · Global Voices\nBarbadians paid their final respects to the late Prime Minister <PERSON> this week. One of the youngest leaders in the region, <PERSON> passed away on October 23 from pancreatic cancer; a state funeral took place on Wednesday and bloggers took the opportunity to pay tribute to the man and his life's work.\nBarbados Free Press gave periodic updates:\n12:08pm The procession is moving from President Kennedy Drive to Eagle Hall, and from there continuing on.\n11:43am The National Anthem. The service ends and folks remain standing as the body is taken from Kensington to St. Johns Parish Church for burial.\n11:05am The descendants of slaves and of slave owners sing together Amazing Grace, a song written by <PERSON>. Once a profane sailor on a slave ship, <PERSON> turned Christian and then abolitionist.", "357" ], [ "The reality of who we are and where we’ve come from is never far away in Barbados.\n9:00am Dark clouds and rain on one side of Kensington Oval, blue sky and sun on the other. A fitting message for this day…\nThe Bajan Reporter posted photos of certain vantage points along the funeral procession's route, noting that “some of those who came to give their respects were waiting from as early as 6:30 am in the Eagle Hall junction” and that “no drizzle would stop [people] from giving their final goodbye to Barbados'…youngest Leader.”\nBarbados Underground republished the text of the late Prime Minister's eulogy, while Cheese-on-bread! thought that the service was “moving”, and was pleased to see that several regional leaders attended the funeral:\nAt Kensington Oval, dignitaries and the man-on-the-street gathered to pay their last respects. Some of the Heads of Government in attendance were PM <PERSON> of the Bahamas; PM <PERSON> of St. Kitts; PM <PERSON> of Grenada; PM <PERSON> of Antigua; PM <PERSON> of Trinidad and PM <PERSON> of Jamaica.\nMy Barbados Blog called the occasion “a very sad day for Barbados”, while BFP thought “Prime Minister <PERSON>’s funeral [was] as good as any funeral could be”, summing it up like this:\nThis is a short post to express our gratitude and admiration for the many folks who worked so hard to plan and carry out <PERSON> funeral. Because of their long hours, meticulous attention to detail and heartfelt commitment to duty, our lost Prime Minister and his family were honoured in a fitting manner that, amid the tears and sorrow, brought a feeling of pride to every Bajan on the island and over and away.\nThe thumbnail image used in this post, “Barbados Flag in Focus”, is by coreycam, used under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 2.0 Generic license. Visit coreycam's flickr photostream.", "357" ], [ "Carnival Love Songs From the Caribbean · Global Voices\nThe celebration of Valentine's Day in many Caribbean territories is usually overshadowed by Carnival, so the Global Voices Caribbean team thought it might be fun to marry the two concepts – pun intended. A few of us have chosen our favourite soca love songs, along with a few lines as to why we think they're appropriate for V-Day…\nOur new author <PERSON> pick is “Flirt” by Farmer <PERSON>:\nThe lyrics perfectly capture the unspoken Carnival rule that it's okay to “‘tief a wine” – parlance that means all dancing in the spirit of the festival is fair game…because it's only for a moment and all in good fun:\nThere's no reason to take off the wedding ring\nThis is the season for the wining\nThe only thing you could make me take off tonight is meh shirt\n‘Cause all I wanna do is flirt…with no strings attached\nWhen ah hold on, ah go wine like dat\nThat sweet wok nah bother me\nIt doh make me guilty…\n<PERSON> explains:\nIn Trinidad and Tobago, there is a popular song that says ‘A little wine (dance) never hurt nobody’. To me that's something that's uniquely Trinidadian, that we can enjoy each other's company and flirt good-naturedly.\nAuthor <PERSON>, who hails from St. Lucia and is known for his dry wit, says:\nI think Valentine's Day is treacly and saccharine so this is the obvious choice…\n<PERSON> This Soca is for You epitomizes the poetic Valentine's Day sentiment, which is made even richer – or more predictable, depending on where you stand on the sentimentality tolerance scale – by the singer's melodic vocals, which slip off his tongue as slowly and as sweetly as molasses:\nFrom the moment I saw you I know we were meant to be\nFrom then on to this day there's no regrets\nThere's no-one else in this world to spend this life with me\nSo to you, I pay all my respects\nGod bless the day that I found you, baby\nWith you by my side and your love to guide me\nHoney, baby, doux doux…this soca is for you\nOf course, I had to put in my two cents’ worth – and because <PERSON> already covered flirtation and <PERSON> made his case for romantic love – I thought I'd go for love of Carnival – and nothing says that for me like <PERSON> ode to Calypso music:\nCan you hear a distant drum bouncing on the laughter of a melody?\nAnd does the rhythm tell you ‘come, come, come, come'?\nDoes your spirit do a dance to this symphony?\nDoes it tell you that your heart is afire?\nAnd does it tell you that your pain is a liar?\nDoes it wash away all your unlovely?\nWell, are you ready for a brand new discovery?\nCalypso, calypso, calypso music…\nIsn't that what love – at least the highest form of it – is supposed to do? It's meant to be transformative, to make you better, more joyous, to bring you closer to who you really are.", "550" ], [ "In the Caribbean, our love of Carnival gets us pretty close. Happy St. Valentine's Day!\nThe thumbnail image used in this post is by <PERSON>, used under an Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 2.0 Generic Creative Commons license. Visit <PERSON> flickr photostream.", "192" ], [ "Caribbean: On Press Freedom · Global Voices\nYesterday – May 3 – was World Press Freedom Day – declared by the United Nations General Assembly in order to raise awareness of the importance of freedom of the press. Many Caribbean bloggers noted the significance of the occasion in their posts…\nSignifyin’ Guyana tried to rally a call to action:\nFor at least one day (today) many hope the eyes of the world will focus on places where persons in the media–bloggers included–have been jailed, and even killed for writing about injustices.\nShe went on to call the names of some offending countries and the “journalists in peril”, adding:\nTo a lesser degree of injury, but certainly just as important in the matter of restrictions on press freedoms, is what's taking place in Guyana. What I see in Guyana is a less evident condition of press freedom restriction.\nNow one can easily point to President <PERSON> as a major offender. His rantings against the press who dare to criticize the government of Guyana are well documented…but even more freedom-restricting than <PERSON>'s actions, are the actions of some top media Personnel in Guyana.\nThe post also laid part of the blame squarely at the feet of irresponsible journalists:\nHere's what I propose we do in true support of those media persons around the world (and in Guyana as well) whose freedoms are being stifled by abusive powers: Don't read or buy Kaieteur News and The Guyana Times–and while we're at it throw in the Guyana Chronicle as well–for at least one week.", "289" ], [ "And let's go here instead to add [our] voices to the calls for action.\nFurther north along the archipelago, Cuban bloggers Uncommon Sense and Along the Malecon noted the irony of the occasion in light of last week's arrest of two dissidents in eastern Cuba:\nCuban authorities on Wednesday detained <PERSON> and his brother <PERSON>, leaders of the Cuban Youth Movement for Democracy in Baracoa…dedicated to helping free Cuban prisoners.\nEven though Uncommon Sense later posted an update confirming “that the <PERSON> brothers were released from detention this weekend”, Along the Malecon continued:\nPress freedom advocates say you don't have to have formal studies to be a practicing journalist. What's certain is that a disproportionately high number of journalists are in jail in Cuba. There were 125 journalists in jail around the world in 2008, according to the Committee to Protect Journalists, or CPJ. Roughly 20 percent were Cubans. The CPJ also says Cuba is one of the 10 worst countries to be a blogger, according to this April 30 report.\nAntilles, the weblog of the Caribbean Review of Books, supported the move by the international writers’ association PEN to launch its Freedom to Write in the Americas campaign, which “aims to highlight the persecution of writers and journalists and the issue of impunity in the region, provide direct support to colleagues in trouble, and raise awareness of trends of repression and censorship threatening writers’ rights”:\nIn the Caribbean, like everywhere else, we need our writers–not just journalists, but novelists, poets, playwrights, historians, critics–to ask unpopular questions, reveal uncomfortable facts, and compel us to consider those crucial matters that our political leaders would rather we ignored.\nFinally, in Trinidad and Tobago, Media Watch published a statement by the Media Association of Trinidad and Tobago, while The Secret Blog of Patrick “Patos” Manning, which purports to be from the mind of the country's media-embattled Prime Minister, posts a tongue-in-cheek excerpt from his most recent Twitter feed:\nT&T journalists, as you observe World Press Freedom Day on May 3, hope you remember how good allyuh have it down here.", "271" ] ]

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[ [ "search for weatherworking story set in Britain\nthis is a long shot, but it's been driving me crazy for a while and I figure if there's any place someone might know the answer... I would have read this at some point before 2001, which is not particularly helpful but does at least cut out the last 13 years, I guess?\n(Assume, by the way, that basically all of what follows will spoil the story.)\nSYNOPSIS\nThe protagonists of the story are a pair of young siblings, a boy and a girl. The brother is able to work weather magic, and close to the beginning of the story I'm pretty sure they come across a man who is being pressed to death as a witch. I'm pretty sure they rescue him.\nOver the course of the story, it emerges that the setting is a Britain in which people have returned to the land. It isn't a Britain that never developed, however; people seem simply to have forgotten the use of technology.", "54" ], [ "This is not a worldwide effect, however: there's a mention that, with all these weatherworkers in Britain, the weather in France has taken a turn for the dreary, rainy, and gray, and so this tech-less bubble basically covers just Britain. I think we find this out from the man, who will have come back in (and whose technological knowledge may have gotten him in trouble, though as far as I recall devices also stop working once they come in contact with the bubble). We also find out that at the moment this happened, there was an hour or two of chaos as (for instance) drivers on expressways lost control of their cars, airplanes failed, etc.\nEventually, they all come across the source of the disturbance, which ends up being the tomb of <PERSON>, who was apparently sleeping and then reawakened (possibly by archaeologists?) Ultimately, <PERSON> is responsible for Britain turning into a gigantic Ren Faire*, and after our protagonists talk to him he agrees that there isn't a crisis, that Britain should be allowed to rejoin the world, and everyone sort of wakes back up into understanding modern technology. Maybe <PERSON> goes back to sleep.\nAt the end, it's raining, and the sister asks her brother to make it stop, but he can't.\nDoes this sound at all familiar to anyone? Is there a chance someone recalls the author and title?\nThank you so much in advance.\n*Yes, I know this is anachronistic. Sorry.", "54" ], [ "Story involving a mysterious substance and a confusion between a peninsula/gulf\nSo I think by googling around I have almost certainly figured this out (see below), but posting anyway in case someone else is looking for the same book, and to remove any remaining uncertainty.\nI read this sci-fi story as a kid, must have been the late 80s, and this is all I can remember: * The text must have been in German (the only language I could read back then); nevertheless I remember the cover having the English words \"top secret\" on them in a circular design, like stamped. * I'm fairly certain the protagonist is female, though I may be conflating this with other books I read around the same time. * The plot revolves around a mysterious substance called \"cabrium\", \"cambrium\", \"caprium\" or some such (definitely starting with ca- and ending with -ium, like a periodic element), which is somehow dangerous, so it has to be wrapped in something. I think it is wrapped in tin-foil, but I may be misremembering this. * At some point in the story, the protagonist has to do some kind of school test or homework.", "1012" ], [ "They think they did fairly well, but actually they didn't. One of the mistakes they made was giving the definition of a gulf when they should have given the definition of a peninsula.\nWhile writing up this question, I googled around a bit and found \"Friday's Tunnel\" by <PERSON>. The descriptions I found make it a very likely fit: it has a female protagonist, and \"caprium\". Moreover, I googled \"Freitags Tunnel\" (the obvious German translation), and found 3. The book cover does have the words \"top secret\" on it, just not in a stamp design (but I might simply be misremembering that part).\nWhat leaves some small amount of uncertainty left in me is that none of the plot elements mentioned in 1 or 2 I haven't already mentioned above, nor the picture on the cover of 3, jog my memory the slightest bit. Also, none of those links mention the homework/test scene.\nCan you confirm I'm on the right track here?", "73" ], [ "I'll just add one angle to your list that hasn't been done a lot in fiction: paranoia, with the possibility of widespread, culture-altering degrees of paranoia if this is a universe that has any significant number of animal shapeshifters rather than just the one.\nOn the most basic level, if I found out someone I knew well could turn into, say, a spider or a flea, I would have difficulty coping with this information. Philosophically, I'd be moving from a world where I feel reasonably secure that it's possible to keep some things private to one where <PERSON> could be a spider on the ceiling watching me have sex without me knowing and with zero consequences. Ew.\nSome people would take this knowledge better than others. Imagine, for example, <PERSON> was a guy in your high school.", "494" ], [ "Sooner or later, everyone's going to think of the spider-sex scenario and apply it to all of their secrets and all of the gross things humans prefer to do without an audience. In even that small group of people loosely connected to <PERSON>, some people are going to have a pretty rosy view of humanity and think it's okay, some people will be realists and think about whether or not <PERSON> has motivation to spy on them specifically out of all the people he might be spying on, and some will, in all likelihood, be inclined to paranoia anyway. Some people will try to put <PERSON> out of their mind, and others will worry about the possibility of him watching every second of the day until they melt down.\nAll this would happen even if <PERSON> was the best guy in the world and would never think of spying on anyone. <PERSON> would be pretty lucky if nobody tried to murder him just to be able to believe in privacy again.\nIf anything, I might think someone in a very close relationship with your shapeshifter might take all this better, in the same way that you get used to compromising privacy when you're living with someone you for the most part like. People who know <PERSON> peripherally would probably go the most crazy thinking about it, because they don't really know what <PERSON> is thinking about them.\nLastly, inevitably, I would think at least someone would start developing religious thoughts about <PERSON>, because frankly, if <PERSON> could be watching you at any time, a sufficiently paranoid mind would start considering, as a matter of course, the possibility that <PERSON> was watching any time they did anything shameful or gross, and from there it's a hop, skip, and a jump to the theological.", "494" ], [ "A young adult time-travelling book with the tag-line \"what if you could slip in and out of time\"\nBasically, what the above says; there's this book that I remember reading a LONG time ago in a library that I did read a few times and remember most of the plot to, but I can't remember the darn title or the names of some of the characters. For context here, I would've been reading it sometime around the age of 13-14, and I'm turning 27 soon.\nThe book itself is, again, a young-adult book about time travel with that tagline on the cover. As for the main theme, it stars a boy who is friends with a professor who basically invents a time machine that resembles a calculator. No, it isn't Strange Attractors - rather than it being a story about someone trying to steal the time machine and the like, the book is more of a collection of short-stories revolving around the boy and some parts of his life, not necessarily all about time travel but not necessarily in chronological order either.\nMain highlights of the story that I can remember: -Boy has a sister that seems to be in ill health. At one point she's talked about as if she's passed away and the boy expresses some sadness about not being around in her final days, while later on in the book there is a short story about him spending time with her on what's hinted at to be one of her final days. Like I said before, time travel is kind of implied here and not outright talked about and the latter scene is implied to have happened before earlier ones.", "55" ], [ "-The calculator-like time machine eventually runs out of power near the end of the book. Boy, through tinkering, discovers a small but heavy metal cube that seems to be the power source - I remember distinctly that the cube was described as \"seeming to make up the majority of the weight of the whole device,\" though I'm not sure if that was the exact wording. Boy brings it to an electronics shop to see if there was a way to charge it, the guy behind the counter identifies it and confirms \"yeah no, I can't charge this, and I didn't even know it could be recharged - this thing normally has enough power stored in it to power a city for years, and I might be in trouble if it gets out that I even know what this is.\" In the end, shop guy keeps the cube. -In one of the scenes involving the boy's sister, they're talking about a book she's reading currently that, in a very meta-like fashion, she describes as a collection of short stories that are all connected in one way or another but it isn't clear immediately how.\nThat's all I can remember about the book. Which sucks because I do remember reading it a lot, but I can't even find any hints about what the book could be. Hopefully someone here has an idea?", "1012" ], [ "I'm trying to find a specific old poetic detective noir-styled science fiction book\nYears ago I read this old science fiction book that was written in a poetic noir style, and I remember bits of the plot, but not any names to google. Could you help me find it?\nIt was from my Dad's collection which means pre-2000 for sure, and probably pre-90s, in fact, I'm pretty sure its pages were turning yellow. Unfortunately I now live on the other side of the continent from him and his collection, and I can't ask him to look through his rather substantial library based on a plot without a title or author.\nThe plot as I recall it: There was someone murdered, and they had a connection to someone rich, an ex-military figure. The police no longer investigate crimes if no one is willing to pay them, so they hand it over to a PI (the main character) in exchange for a commission if he finds someone willing to pay him to solve it. Then they tell him that someone powerful has told them to lay off, and retract the case from him.", "944" ], [ "I forget the next bit but it eventually winds up going into a ghetto for mutants, and saves himself at one point by pretending to be a mad berserker by reciting nursery rhymes. When he gets back out he finds out that the powerful person he is investigating has been smuggling mutants out of the ghetto, letting them get to positions of power and then blackmailing them for huge sums of money. Oh, and the bad guy was a (super-intelligent?) mutant himself I think. There was a final fight in a factory or something?\nWhat caught me was the silly, overwritten style; it wasn't even a particularly good book, but the writing style was very distinctive, a sort of parody of the noir genre sort of like when <PERSON> does his noir stories in <PERSON> and <PERSON>. Everything was described with metaphors and similes out the wazoo.\nBooks that have been suggested elsewhere that it isn't: Altered Carbon, by <PERSON> (too recent, plot doesn't match); Gun with Occasional Music by <PERSON> (No talking animals in my book).", "322" ], [ "Perhaps Forgotten Colony? That's a series name actually. Author is <PERSON>.\nThe books in it are:\n1. Deliverance\n2. Deception\n3. Desperation\n4. Destruction\n5. Declaration\nSPOILER ALERT: Everything that follows (till the last couple paragraphs) could easily be considered as giving away far too much. So if someone who is not the poster is reading this, now is a good time to start to scroll slowly, ready to stop quickly...\nThe idea is an alien species has come to Earth and devastated it. Details in book, but the species is called the Xenotrife. A Marine officer, <PERSON>, has been the most successful unit leader against them, performing mostly extraction missions for a couple years, but the Earth is gone. Turns out what's left of government has created a generation space ship to go elsewhere and reestablish mankind. Or maybe six of them, though <PERSON> only knows of the one he ends up at.\nHis last mission was to extract a doctor and her team from their own technology recovery mission. She's, shall I say, a piece of work, and a continuing villainess throughout the books.\nSo, <PERSON> unit is to be security outside the passenger portion of the ship for the 200 years to get to elsewhere, but that goes sour. Things go sour in the ship as well. When they arrive at a star system and planet, it turns out nothing is very democratic anymore in the ship and the current boss is not the man his father and grandfather were. There are enemies on the planet, and guess what? Not coincidentally, thank you old government swine, but the planet has Xenotrife on it. And more.\nShenanigans ensure and eventually everything works out. Works out for the good? For the bad? Hmm...\nSo:\n1. <PERSON>\n2.", "322" ], [ "The horrid creature the extracted doctor turns out to be\n3. Xenotrife\n4. The Xenotrife were engineered for our destruction. There is a whole plan by a universal (not galactic, no, universic, so to speak) \"big bad.\"\n5. There's an intermediate level bad guy/good guy species.\nIf none of that rings any bells, this might not be the book/series you have in mind. If any of it does, well, then it is.\nThe aliens arrived via probes that landed and disgorged the Xenotrife who began killing humans that survived a disease they also brought (engineered for us)... at least I seem to remember a disease to cull our herd. This matches your description. Additionally, as mentioned below, it turns out the generation ship's destination was chosen by figuring the best backtrack for those probes, turning out to be a planet they call Proxima, and the idea turns out to be that the ship's humans were meant to take the war to the enemy. What they find is not what one would expect and they lost track of that mission completely (not that it was broadly known at all) in the uprising they had along the way. This is also a fine fit to your description.\nCaveat: The author has written a lot of books and some of them seem, by series name and kind of material in his blurbs on his website, to be from the same conceptual space. Like one set seems to be people in one of those other ships. That one has a \"sheriff\" named <PERSON> and the ship is called Pilgrim. If it is related, and \"demonic aliens\" certainly describes the Xenotrife to a \"T\" (literally, they were described that way in the above books, first one anyway). If related, probably enough backstory was given to certainly fit your question.\nA different series, Forgotten Vengeance, seems to take over after the series described above. The focus seems to be on the \"universic\" enemy I mentioned as the ultimate bad guys (going up a chain of them...) from that series. Surely the series includes enough backstory to set the stage, so this is the second guess I would make if the <PERSON> series rings no bells. Then (possibly) the <PERSON> series (just above).\nSide note: I \"bought\" them for $0.00 on Amazon (No idea what price the set currently has on Amazon though.) and certainly got my money's worth and more. However, not too much more... I read them all, don't get me wrong, but except for periodic moments, I felt they slowly became a \"here's a horrifying immediate death problem, oh here's the planned solution, rinse, repeat, rinse, repeat, rinse, repeat...\" kind of thing.", "1012" ], [ "Series of novels involving a galactic empire in slow decline\nThis is a long-shot; I only remember a few details from two novels I read as a child, by the same author. This means they were originally published in the late 1970s at the latest, but I would guess they were older than that.\nBoth take place in a galaxy-spanning empire that is in decline; this decline is apparently irreversible, and has been going on for a very long time, on the order of centuries or millenia, as the central government's resources diminish and as there are rebellions on the peripheries. Technology is advanced, but stagnant. The central government is referred to as \"Central Command\", often abbreviated to CC. Mutants, and \"greenies\", are discriminated against, or worse. People from many cultures are considered \"barbarians\" and are second-class citizens, with restrictions on their occupations; one of the few that is open to \"barbarians\" is that of mercenary.\nIn one book, the story centers on the crew of a military vessel, which crash-lands on an uninhabited but pleasant world, which turns out to be Earth. In the opening passages of the book, members of the crew reflect on their losses to attrition in a long series of conflicts.", "1012" ], [ "One talks about an android, who'd helped them in one crisis, and another says, \"That android was great! When did we lose him?\", to be reminded of another battle. At the end of the novel, the protagonists meet the crew of another ship that had crash-landed on Earth; they decide together to turn their back on Central Command and settle on Earth. It's left ambiguous whether humans had originally come from Earth and abandoned it, or whether these were the first humans to settle there.\nThe other book is also set on Earth; it seems to take place sometime in the near future. I don't know how it relates in a timeline to the other novel I described, whether long before or long after. At some point, there was a reference to the city of Sacramento, as an agricultural center. Earth is considered to be under the oppressive authority of Central Command, but is a \"barbarian\" world. The protagonist, early in the novel, sees a sunlit wall, and thinks he'd like to stretch out on it, but does not, because that would identify him as a \"greenie\". It isn't really explained what a \"greenie\" is.", "1012" ], [ "Help me identify an urban fantasy web comic whose main character was named \"<PERSON>\"\nI used to read a web comic and I've forgotten it's name and URL. It was \"urban fantasy\" where some fantastic things happened in a world that looked like the real world in the present time. The main character was a young man who used to be an assassin, and his assassin alias was \"<PERSON>\". If I recall correctly he went by \"<PERSON>\" informally (name? nickname? not sure).\nThe comic featured a group of people who were basically a spy agency, whose missions were literally given to them by angels. The other main character had the (rare) ability to see and converse with angels.\n<PERSON> was bisexual and was mostly shown with boyfriends. One of his boyfriends sold his soul to the Devil; his soul was consigned to Hell and his body still walked and talked and could think, but was souless. <PERSON> managed somehow to win back the soul, and the boyfriend was emotionally devastated by his memories of several days in Hell.", "944" ], [ "I remember <PERSON> yelling at someone (an angel? a representative of angels?) for allowing such things to happen, which I thought was unfair.\n<PERSON> was extremely interested in the other main character, who possibly reciprocated, but the other main character was trying to avoid any romance in his life as he needed to stay a virgin to continue to be able to talk to angels.\n<PERSON> started working for the agency, and right away there was a mission where they needed to rescue someone from some really bad guys. <PERSON> told the mission commander something to the effect of \"You guys are a team and have trained together. I've always worked alone. I'm not giving you attitude, I'm stating facts. This will work better if you give me a solo job, and the rest of you do your team thing.\" The commander said something like \"Fine, you're the point man.\" So <PERSON> went in, alone, ahead of the others, and cleverly figured out and disabled some nasty traps.\nIn another memorable scene, a group of Mafia guys are in a meeting, and the head guy complains that assassins who know too much don't get to just retire. He says something like \"I will consider the man who kills <PERSON> to be a personal friend.\"\nI read this years ago. As far as I know it stopped updating at least five years ago, maybe more. As I remember it, it was hand-drawn and black-and-white.\nWhat was this comic? Google is not very helpful; there are a surprising number of web comics featuring angels, and the words \"Star\" and \"Resonator\" don't seem to help.", "190" ] ]

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[ [ "Winner of the Fairplay poll at Essen this year (even over the current hot favorite Agricola), Tribune has since then slipped out of the spotlight with little to no further information available, besides that FFG is poised with an upcoming English release. Fortunately, I got a chance to play this at BGG.con a few weeks ago, thanks to <PERSON>. I have to say that the demo table for Tribune was constantly occupied over the 4-day period, so I guess even though the news have been scarce, people have definitely took notice of it. Here are some of my thoughts.\nGameplay/Rules\nSimilar to Pillars of the Earth, each person is given a number of meeples to place around the board as seen here:\nImage courtesy of <PERSON>\nBeginning with the starting player, everyone gets to put one marker on an open spot he/she desires and the action continues clockwise until there are no more meeples available. Then the locations resolve in the following order:\nCollection Plate\nFirst player here gets 7 coins.\nAll subsequent players receive 5 .\nSlave Market\nOnly two spots are available here at a cost of 1 coin each. You need to place your meeple next to the card you wish to purchase.\nForum\nSix cards here for you to choose from, but at a higher cost of 3 coins each.\nLatrine\nInitially placed face down , the card is then flipped over , you can choose either to take the card by paying coins or to pass to collect coins equal to its value .\nSenate\nThree spots up for grabs. You must discard a card from you hand to collect the set of card(s) you have claimed.\nAt the beginning of every round, each set is dealt out from the deck until a total value of 5 or more is reached OR if a leader (a 0 value card) is turned over .\nAtrium\nTwo spots available.\nInitially placed face down , the first player here gets to turn over 2 of the 3 cards of his choice . If he is the only person here by the end of the round, he gets those 2 cards for free .\nHowever, if and when a second player is present, the third card is also revealed , both will then participate in a blind bidding for all of the cards. Winner pays the coins he bid to the loser and tie is resolved in favor of the first player .\nThe same player may not occupy both spaces !\nCatacombs\nThree spaces designated 2, 3 and 4 .\n5 cards are dealt faced down at the beginning of each turn.\nThe player on the 4 spot gets to look through the stack of cards first. He may then chooses to pass or pay 4 coins to keep a card of his choice . Then the player on the 3 will get a shot at the cards, but he only has to pay 3 coins if he chooses to keep a card.", "84" ], [ "The 2 spot player goes last but the card only costs 2 coins.\nThe cost of a card remains the same with the respective spot even if the other spaces aren't claimed .\nCoins paid here do not go into the bank, but to the space next to it .\nPantheon\nTwo occupants allowed. The card here is initially placed faced down . When resolved, you may discard a card with the same faction as the revealed card here to gain a permanent favor of the God , with the condition that you must either be in possession of the temporary one OR if you own the group token for the Vestal faction .\n<PERSON> spots available.\nAll players involved discard 2 cards of the same faction from his hand, the person with the highest total value receives two laurels . Everyone else receive only 1 . In the case of a tie, no additional laurels are given, all participating players get only 1 .\nNo player may occupy more than 1 space here .\nFaction Track\nThis is where you can attempt to gain control of the 7 factions . Each factions has two spots up for grabs. Please remember that you resolve this track twice . First to claim the control , then to give out special favors to those controlling them .\nThe factions are resolved in order from left to right : So it goes Gladiator -> Legate -> Praetorian -> Plebian -> Patrician -> Vestal -> Senator.\nIf you are the only player at a particular faction, you may then attempt to take control by playing cards of that respective faction . You must play at least 2 cards , but if another player is currently in possession of the faction in question , you can beat it by either playing more cards or have a total value that is higher than the ones in front of him. (For example, <PERSON> has control of the Gladiators with 3 cards valued at 0, 2, and 5. You can take over by either playing 4 Gladiator cards, regardless of their values, or however many Gladiator cards that total more than 7).", "597" ], [ "This review continues my series of detailed reviews that attempt to be part review, part resource for anyone not totally familiar with the game. For this reason I expect readers to skip to the sections that are of most interest.\nImage Courtesy of <PERSON>\nSummary\nGame Type - Euro Game\nPlay Time: 90-120 Minutes\nNumber of Players: 3-5\nMechanics - Auctions/Bidding, Set Collection, Trading/Negotiation, Dice Rolling\nDifficulty - Moderate (Can be learned in about an hour, takes a game or two to get a handle on how to do well)\nComponents - Excellent +++\nRelease - 2007\nDesigner(s) - <PERSON> (6 nimmt!, Auf Achse, El Grande, Expedition, Goldland, Gulo Gulo, Hacienda,Heimlich & Co., Java, Maharaja: The Game of Palace Building in India, Mexica, The Palaces of Cararra, The Princes of Florence, That's Life!, Tikal, Torres and many, many more)\nand <PERSON>\nOverview\nForget the grand stadiums of the modern era and travel back to one of the greatest engineering feats of the ancient world...the Colosseum! As an Impresario you are charged with putting on the greatest spectacles the Emperor has ever seen as a celebration is held for 99 days to commemorate the opening of your very own stage...the Colosseum!!!\nThis ... is ...SPARTA!!... err Rome.\nIn Colosseum each player is looking to stage the grandest spectacles ever seen...featuring; gladiators, lions, chariot races, galleys to sail on a flooded arena, musicians and narrators. Your aim is to draw the largest crowds and to hopefully have the honour of being graced by the presence of dignitaries such as Senators, Consuls and perhaps even the Emperor himself.\nThis is your life's work and you are hoping to earn the title of Grand Impresario.\nWelcome to Colosseum!\nPlease join tour group 3 as I take you around this grand structure and show you what it has to offer...\nThe Components\nThe spectacles of the colosseum were many and varied and Days of Wonder (DoW) certainly match it with a ton of bits for this game. There is a lot to get through so let's get stuck in.\nBoard – Ironically the board, whilst important, is not as impressive as some of the other components as it features rather neutral tones to allow other components to stand out once placed on the board. It is still nice to look at though.\nRather than depict the Colosseum, the board illustrates the city of Rome with its many buildings, port and river. But this is actually rather unimportant and instead the eye is drawn to the 4 key features that are of importance.\nCentrally there is the Market area, where there are 5 groups of 3 boxes.", "470" ], [ "This is where the Asset Tokens are placed to be auctioned off during the game.\nAround this in a rectangle formation is the track upon which the dignitaries are placed and can move as the game unfolds. This track also allows space for each player's Arena.\nAround the outside of the board is the score track and there is also a Turn Order Track located inside the path of the dignitaries.\nImage Courtesy of <PERSON>\nDignitaries - In all there are 6 wonderfully lavish pieces that represent the Emperor, two Senators and three Consuls. These appear to be made out of wood but they have some ceramic embellishments that make them look neat and provide them with a nice heft that sits lovely in the hand. The quality is not only fabulous but it also serves to highlight their importance in the game itself.\nImage Courtesy of Toynan\nAsset Tokens - In all there are 12 different asset tokens that can easily be made out by their image. Each asset is easily identifiable thanks to a unique background colour and they have that thickness that makes them feel like a quality component.\nThe Asset Tokens feature either a green or a yellow back. It is the green-backed tokens that are largely used in the set-up with the yellow-backed tokens starting the game in the drawstring cloth bag.\nImage Courtesy of <PERSON>\nStar Performer Awards – There are 7 Star Performer Tiles that match 7 of the Asset Tokens and this connection is reinforced by using the same background colour. A nice large +4 reinforces their benefit and these are highly sought after as the game unfolds.\nImage Courtesy of <PERSON>\nEvent Programs - A key feature of the game are the Event Programs that the players are trying to produce. These are horizontal templates that get longer as they get more elaborate.", "84" ], [ "This review continues my series of detailed reviews that attempt to be part review, part resource for anyone not totally familiar with the game. For this reason I expect readers to skip to the sections that are of most interest.\nImage Courtesy of <PERSON>\nSummary\nGame Type - Family Game (Euro/Conflict Hybrid)\nPlay Time: 50-80 Minutes\nNumber of Players: 3-5 (Best 4-5)\nMechanics - Bluffing, Simultaneous Action Selection, Dice Rolling Combat\nDifficulty - Moderate (Can be learned in 30-60 minutes)\nComponents - Excellent ++\nRelease - 2002\nDesigner(s) - <PERSON> Largo)\n<PERSON>\nOverview\nPirate's Cove is a game from the golden days of publisher Days of Wonder (DoW). Released in 2002 I was shocked to see that it pre-dates their early mega-hits Ticket to Ride and Memoir '44 and was their second big box game to be released after Mystery of the Abbey (although this could be technically incorrect as I suspect Abbey may have been acquired as its date is listed as 1995, which to my memory is a little early for DoW).\nINSERT - A little research later and I see that Mystery of the Abbey and Pirate's Cove were both released in 2003 with DoW having an official launch date of 2002.\nPirate's Cove is a classic trademark Days of Wonder game. The game-play is light to medium at best, easy to learn and play and it looks a million dollars in the process. They also liked to go for the big themes in those early days and here it was Pirates.\nI remember well the times when Pirate's Cove was released. Heavy Euros were still king but games like this one were opening the market up to, and gathering interest from, more casual game players. These were the days when Days of Wonder were spoken of with awe and reverence as the company that would challenge the classic euro-companies for market share. Component quality certainly improved in the years following releases such as this one.\nTo the game itself and Pirate's Cove was a classic DoW release as it hit 'theme' square in the stomach, pitting each player as a daring Pirate Captain, hell bent on sailing the high seas and gaining fame and fortune in the process. Legendary Pirates sail ominously around the island archipelago and ships are rigged to plunder riches and bury it on famed Treasure Island.\nArgh me hearties!\nThe Components\nPirates Cove was probably the first DoW game to really catch the eye of gamers and have them goo-ing at the production quality. Everything is so colourful and bright as a button…\nBoard – The board is a simple yet perfect draw card.", "299" ], [ "A gorgeous island archipelago is depicted with no less than 7 islands, separated only by a sapphire blue sea. Each island is adorned with an icon to clearly identify its purpose during the game and a card outline on the outer islands highlight where various card decks need to be placed.\nPirate’s Cove was one of the earliest boards I can remember that took my breath away and got me excited to play the game. I remember well seeing the use of grid squares and assuming that there would be mechanics for ships to move and potentially board one another. Alas I was soon to learn that movement was more abstract in nature. More on that later.\nThe board is surrounded by a score track, just one feature that is replicated in the design of Ticket to Ride.\nImage Courtesy of vekoma\nNavigation Wheel – A key mechanic of the game is the means of selecting a destination and this is the purpose of the Navigation Wheel. Shaped like the wheel of an old wooden ship, it depicts the 6 island locations that can be traveled too each round. Each location uses the graphic icon associated with each island on the board, making it very clear as to a player's chosen destination each round.\nImage Courtesy of mpot\nPlayer Mats – The player mats are another high gloss, colourful creation. Each mat depicts a pirate ship, complete with 4 rows of numbers that represent the relative strengths of each section (sails, crew, cannons and hull).\nEach row features a small doubloon value between the larger numbers and this represents the cost to upgrade any one area to the next level.\nThe final elements of the player mats include a space in which to place a Parrot Card should one be drawn and a circle in the lower right, which is used to place treasure and doubloons as they are collected.\nThe only gripe I have with the mats is that they are a little thin and flimsy. Whilst I’m sure it was a cost decision to not provide a thicker mounted mat, this is probably the one production choice that lets the game down. Most people who are concerned seem to laminate the mats and that works fine.", "336" ], [ "Image Courtesy of <PERSON>\nThis review continues my series of detailed reviews that attempt to be part review, part resource for anyone not totally familiar with the game. For this reason I expect readers to skip to the sections that are of most interest.\nIf you liked the review please thumb the top of the article so others have a better chance of seeing it and I know you stopped by. Thanks for reading.\nSummary\nGame Type – Euro Game\nPlay Time: 30-60 minutes\nNumber of Players: 2-5 (Best 3+)\nMechanics – Tile Laying, Bidding, Valuation, Set Collection\nDifficulty – Pick-up & Play (Can be learned in 20 minutes)\nComponents – Excellent\nRelease – 2015\nAwards – 2016 Kennerspiel des Jahres (connoisseur/expert game of the year)\nDesigner – <PERSON> (Broom Service, Great Western Trail, The Mines of Zavandor, Mombasa, Oh My Goods!, Port Royal)\n+\n<PERSON> (Broom Service, Cash-a-Catch, Sewer Pirats)\nOverview and Theme\nThe Isle of Skye is a region of Scotland that resides in the northwest of the country. It is a land of rugged terrain featuring mountains, waterways, pastures, castles and narrow lochs. This is the setting for this tile-laying game and makes for some interesting and varied features on the game's many tiles.\nAs a Scottish Clan Chieftain, it is your responsibility to explore (lay tiles) in order to grow the size of your region. In doing so you will acquire livestock, farms, fishing boats and many other resources of note to help you claim the title of King of the Isles!\nInterestingly this game won the Kennerspiel des Jahres for its design duo, their second consecutive win after taking the award in 2015 with Broom Service. The Kennerspiel is a relatively new award in the family of Spiel des Jahres awards and was created to recognise games that offer a bit more than the entry level SdJ but are still less 'brain-burny' than the Deutscher Spiele Preis (DSP).\n<PERSON> won that award (DSP) for Mombasain 2016 and came an honourable runner-up to in 2017 with Great Western Trail.\nWhat I'm getting at here is that this design team and Pfisterin particular have hit the gaming scene in a big way in the last 3-5 years and have some serious gaming chops.\nSo join me lassie as we take a stroll through the hinterland and contemplate whether Isle of Skye sits well in such company.\nThe Components\nIsle of Skye is one of those games that is produced really well and you are proud to have it on your shelf and out on the gaming table...because it looks good.\nBoard – The game makes use of a smaller board that is not actually played on, instead it is used to track scoring and help manage aspects of the game. The board is also double-sided to manage the 5-player game differently to any other player count.\nThere are essentially 3 features of note on the board. The score track ranges from 0-50 and skirts the outer edge. A series of 4 arched windows are locations to place the randomly selected Scoring Tiles and these suggest you are looking out of your castle to the fields and oceans yonder.\nThe final element is the round\\turn track.", "470" ], [ "This horizontal row numbers each round and uses illustrations of bowls (on your table), upon which the Round Marker can move. From round 3 onwards a coin value is indicated, which is used to award supplemental income to some of the players (more on that later). Beneath each bowl are set of pennants are illustrated. These indicate which Scoring Tile will be active for each round and those same pennants can be found above the 4 arched windows.\nTwo reminders are also given regarding end of game scoring. We'll get to those shortly.\nOverall, the central board is more functional than breathtaking, but it makes use of contrasting colours to help it appeal to the eye.\nImage Courtesy of Alice87\nGame Tiles – The game tiles have a quality feel and look. The colours are engaging and the illustrations are both interesting and well laid out. A total of three terrains can be found in the game; pasture, mountain and water. A raft of other features are then added, which can help in scoring VPs. These features are of course strewn across the tiles in such a way that the game maintains a balance of sorts but they (the tiles) never look cluttered or too busy.\nThickness wise, these tiles are great. In relation to size they are exactly the same dimensions as those found in .", "872" ], [ "Image Courtesy of Floodgate\nThis review continues my series of detailed reviews that attempt to be part review, part resource for anyone not totally familiar with the game. For this reason I expect readers to skip to the sections that are of most interest.\nIf you liked the review please thumb the top of the article so others have a better chance of seeing it and I know you stopped by. Thanks for reading.\nSummary\nGame Type – Euro (Dice Drafting and Allocation) Game\nPlay Time: 20-45 minutes\nNumber of Players: 1-4\nMechanics – Dice Drafting, Dice Rolling, Set Collection, Pattern Building\nDifficulty – Pick-up & Play (Can be learned in 10 minutes)\nComponents – Excellent\nRelease – 2017\nDesigner – <PERSON> -( Before the Earth Explodes, City of Gears, Roar: King of the Pride, Speakeasy Blues)\n+\n<PERSON> -( Before the Earth Explodes, Mine All Mines)\nOverview and Theme\nWelcome artists of the world! You are tasked with creating the most beautiful stained-glass windows, befitting of the amazing Sagrada Familia Cathedral in Barcelona.\nYour commission is a simple one...to create the most stunning window possible and in doing so beat your rival artists to the grand prize, the fame of your creation and knowing that you have added to this amazing building as created by the architect <PERSON>.\nOk so there you have the thematic backdrop. But what is Sagrada in a gaming sense? Quite simply it is a dice drafting and placement game that looks gorgeous as it goes about its evolution from set-up to completion.\nBefore we really tuck into this one, it is worth noting that Sagrada is another great game to come out of theGroup. I like to give a shout out to groups like this who are a part of creating great new games. One game that inspired or influenced the creation of Sagrada was , another great game to come out of this group.\nThis review is also timely as the relatively small publisher in are about to release the 5-6 Player Expansion for Sagrada. This expansion will be a bit more than just a player-increase title, offering up personal dice pools and new Private Objective Cards amongst a few other bits. It doesn't look to be a massive expansion in relation to content and many fans of the game will probably be thankful for that as bloat will not be an issue.\nGrab the Lens Cutter, oh and that Flux Brush please, we have a date some 30 meters up my good friend...it's time to create a masterpiece!\nThe Components\nOne of the major selling points of Sagrada is its vibrant appearance and great production values. For a small-publisher to provide a game of this quality and include 90 translucent dice at a decent price point...bravo!\nPlayer Boards – Each player board is shaped in that classic stained-glass window visage and features two distinct halves.", "470" ], [ "The top half is taken up by artwork, showing a stained-glass window with a dice of a given colour in its center. This colour is the dominant colour in that board's artwork but doesn't really denote that player as colour 'x' as the players are not represented by a given colour in the game (Scoring Tokens aside).\nThe bottom half is where the action is at though as this is where the game will be played and each player will create their own window. The bottom of each board features a latticework, which creates a 5 x 4 grid of spaces. At the bottom edge of each board a thumb space can be found at the back and a slot is present, which allows a Window Card to be inserted into the latticework. It's actually quite the intricate design compared to some games when you stop and think about it.\nWhat is also worth noting is the thickness of these boards. They are really great featuring two really thick boards glues together to produce a 5-6mm creation. The backs of the boards also feature lovely artwork, not that it is seen all that often.\nImage Courtesy of pandawear\nDice – The dice are the star of the show however and come in the small dice format, but most importantly, are translucent. Not only does this material choice best reflect the nature of a stained glass window, when the light catches them the game looks simply stunning.\nIn all there are 18 of each colour and of course the latticework on the Player Boards are sized to perfectly hold a single dice in each space.\nImage Courtesy of <PERSON> Pattern Cards – The game includes 12 double-sided Window Pattern Cards, allowing for 24 different designs to be offered. These are made from thin card to allow them to be inserted into the bottom of the Player Boards and in doing so the features on each card align with the open spaces of the latticework. Very clever stuff.", "872" ], [ "Image Courtesy of SuryaThis review continues my series of detailed reviews. I have tried to cover every aspect of the game and as such you may prefer to skip to the sections of most interest.\nSummary\nGame Type – Euro Game\nPlay Time: 30-50 min\nNumber of Players: 2-6\nMechanics – Tile Placement, Area Control & Influence\nDifficulty – Pick-up & Play (Can be learned in under 20 minutes and takes only 1-2 plays to fully grasp)\nComponents – Excellent\nRelease - 2002\nDesigner - <PERSON> - (Bali, All things Carcassonne, The Downfall of Pompeii, Mesopotamia)\nOverview\nThis review continues my detailed analysis of the Carcassonne series of titles and is the first of the expansions that I have looked at.\nI have no plans to cover the basic play and strategy of the base game here. If you would like to know more about Carcassonne, I suggest a quick read of this review –\nCarcassonne - A Detailed Review\nInns Cathedrals was released 2 years after the original game. It comes in a nice smaller box format and it is regarded as one of the ‘better’ expansions for the franchise.\nThis expansion review will outline what new elements and strategy are generated when using Inns Cathedrals and how that changes the feel of the play.\nComponents\nTiles – Inns Cathedrals offers up an additional 18 tiles to add to the Carcassonne mix. Tile distribution images like the one below are really handy if you mix a series of expansions together and want to separate them out again.\nImage Courtesy of Aldaron\nMore Meeple – Inns Cathedrals allows a 6th player to join the fun. They have to settle for grey Meeple though. Why so sad?\nImage Courtesy of mpot\nScoring Aide – A set of 50/100 scoring tiles help player's to keep track of their score should they 'clock' the score track.\nImage Courtesy of bluef0x\nLarge Followers – A key component to Inns Cathedrals are the new Large Followers that effectively give each player an 8th Meeple for placement on tiles.\nImage Courtesy of Ironmaus\nRules – The rules are printed on a small double-sided sheet, which means you will be able to absorb the new additions and get into playing within 15-20 minutes.\nImage Courtesy of EndersGame\nAll in all the components are up to the usual high standard of any Carcassonne title.\nNew Elements\nInns Cathedrals offers 3 new additions to change the play of the basic game.", "581" ], [ "It also offered a couple of little extras.\nNew Tiles –\nImage Courtesy of fivecatsInns Cathedrals adds 18 new tiles to the Carcassonne mix to make for a total of 90 tiles in play per game.\nThe Inns – Six of the 18 new tiles feature an inn nestled on a lake. All of these features are located next to a road segment, but some of them have a piece of city as well.\nIf a road contains one or more Inns, it will increase the value of each tile in the road network from 1 point to 2 points, provided it is completed. If the road is not completed by the endgame, then the road is worthless and will not score.\nThe Cathedrals – A total of 2 Cathedrals are featured in the game and they are surrounded by city on all sides (so they can only connect to city).\nIf a City has one or more Cathedrals present, each tile will increase in value from 2 points to 3 points (as well as any Pennants) provided that the City is completed. If a City containing a Cathedral is not completed by the endgame, then the City is not scored at all.\nLarge Meeple – Each player is also given a Large Meeple, which brings their ‘in-game’ total to 8 Meeple. This guy is placed in the usual way as standard Meeple but he is worth 2 standard Meeple when calculating who controls a feature.\nUnusual Tiles – Included in the tile mix are a series of unusual tiles (see Component Image above) such as one tile that features 4 ‘City Ends’ with a field in the middle. Another includes a Cloister with road at either side and a pointy piece of City that runs diagonally across the tile. I’ll outline the purpose of these later.\nAdditional Meeple – Inns and Cathedrals also offers a 6th set of grey Meeple to allow a 6th player to join the fun. These of course can be used with the base game without adding anything else from this expansion.", "84" ], [ "This review continues my series of detailed reviews that attempt to be part review, part resource for anyone not totally familiar with the game. For this reason I expect readers to skip to the sections that are of most interest.\nImage Courtesy of <PERSON>\nSummary\nGame Type – Dice Game\nPlay Time: 20-40 Minutes\nNumber of Players: 2-5\nMechanics – Dice Rolling, Dice Management\nDifficulty – Pick-Up and Play (Can be learned in about 10 minutes)\nComponents – Good\nRelease - 2012\nDesigner – <PERSON> (All things Bohnanza, Agricola, At the Gates of Loyang, Babel, Le Havre, Ora et Labora)\nOverview\nWhen I started my journey into the new age of gaming around 2000-2001, Bohnanza was one of the first games I played and I loved it.\nThat still rings true today despite the fact that I play it far less than I used to. So when I heard that the <PERSON> family finally had its inevitable dice game conversion, I knew I had to try it. I prepared myself however for the worst and despite my love of dice games in general, I am getting pretty tired of the current trend to turn almost any successful game or franchise into a cheap and easy dice spin-off version.\nDespite being a dice game, the theme found here holds largely true to the original card game. Players are trying to roll dice in order to plant beans (lock them in), which can then be harvested once a harvest order is completed in full. The more harvest orders that are completed, the greater the payoff when a player decides to cash-in.\nSo how do the old beans fair when they are on dice? Is this a cynical money making exercise or a gaming experience worth your hard earned? Let's find out.\nThe Components\nLike any good filler dice game the components required are fairly minimal...\nDice – The stars of the show are the 7 dice that feature a total of 7 different bean types. Most are common to the card game.\nWhat requires mention is that the dice are split into 2 distinct dice types or sets, a group of 4 like dice and a group of 3 like dice. Both sets differ in the types of beans they offer and how many of each.\nStraight away it becomes evident that the game may require some dice management to maximise your results and this is certainly true.\nThe group of 4 like dice feature a white background, whilst the set of 3 like dice feature a beige background. At best this colouring is not highly evident and at worst it is very hard to see under poor lighting, which is a shame but not a game breaker.\nMost of the time it is not an issue but something could have been done to rectify it in production.\nThe faces themselves are painted on rather than etched but mine are yet to show any serious wear.\nPlease note that in the image below the orange looking dice has been coloured by the owner to help better identify the beige from the white dice. I have not felt the need to do this.\nImage Courtesy of Liumas\nHarvest Cards – The other major component is the Harvest Cards, which the players are trying to fulfill with their rolls.", "581" ], [ "Each card features a total of 6 different orders and the criteria for each order is listed using icons that are easy to understand.\nThe other feature worth noting is that coins/gold or (in Bohnanza speak) Beantalers are listed on the top half of the card. These BEantalers (1-4) are the rewards on offer for completing 3 or more orders.\nThe backs of the cards feature the same classic image of the golden Beantaler, that every Bohnanza game tends to use. These are used to keep track of a player's score as they complete orders and collect their gold.\nThe cards are a nice bit of design. It isn't necessarily impressive but it does the job, is easily understand and allows the game to flow quickly and easily. The cards also feature a matte or linen finish, which is in keeping with the European quality standards that companies like Amigo tend to uphold. Bravo!\nOne element I do like about the Harvest Cards though is that there is much variety in the orders that you need to complete. In all there are a total of 64 cards and 9 different types of orders (with many variations within those types) that need completing. This variety helps the game to feel varied.\nImage Courtesy of Artax\nBean Field Template - A box-sized Bean Field Template is also provided. This is an important feature as it serves as a location for the players to move their 'locked-in' beans to and helps avoid having rolled dice hitting 'locked-in' dice. It also helps to easily identify which dice are still active and which are not.", "872" ], [ "Image Courtesy of VerkistoThis review continues my series of detailed reviews. I have tried to cover every aspect of the game and as such you may prefer to skip to the sections of most interest.\nSummary\nGame Type – Euro Game\nPlay Time: 30-50 min\nNumber of Players: 2-5(6)\nMechanics – Tile Placement, Area Control & Influence\nDifficulty – Pick-up & Play (Can be learned in under 20 minutes and takes only 1-2 plays to fully grasp)\nComponents – Excellent\nRelease - 2003\nDesigner - <PERSON> - (Bali, All things Carcassonne, The Downfall of Pompeii, Mesopotamia)\nOverview\nThis review continues my detailed analysis of the Carcassonne series of titles and is the second of the expansions that I have looked at.\nI have no plans to cover the basic play and strategy of the base game here. If you would like to know more about Carcassonne, I suggest a quick read of this review –\nCarcassonne - A Detailed Review\nTraders Builders was released 3 years after the original game and a year after the highly successful Inns Cathedrals. It comes in a nice smaller box format and it is regarded as one of the ‘better’ expansions for the franchise.\nThis expansion review will outline what new elements and strategy are generated when using Traders Builders and how that changes the feel of the play. It will also look at any interesting interplay that may arise if used in conjunction with Inns Cathedrals.\nComponents\nTiles – Traders Builders offers up an additional 24 tiles to add to the Carcassonne mix and many of these tiles feature icons that represent Trade Goods (more on those later). Tile distribution images like the one below are really handy if you mix a series of expansions together and want to separate them out again.\nImage Courtesy of <PERSON>\nTrade Goods - A series of tokens are provided that feature the icons of the Trade Goods located on many of the new tiles. The number of Goods is not exactly the same for each type.\nImage Courtesy of <PERSON>\nMeeple – In this expansion we also get some specialised Meeple in the form of the Builder and the Pig. All colours are represented including the grey 6th player that was made possible by Inns Cathedrals.\nImage Courtesy of mpot\nCloth Bag – By now the designer and publisher probably realised that fans of the series would likely play with the base game and both the small box expansions, which meant a lot of tiles to mix and stack in piles.", "581" ], [ "So they included a really nice cloth bag, which allows all the tiles to be thrown in there and mixed up in a matter of seconds. It comes in Royal Blue (which matches the colour of the Carcassonne box, although some images on the Geek suggest other colours have been used) and it also features a nice Carcassonne transfer.\nIt is little touches like this that game fans appreciate. It also meant that each expansion to date had included a component that didn't affect the game play but did make the playing experience easier to manage.\nImage Courtesy of <PERSON>\nRules – Like Inns Cathedrals, the rules are printed on a small double-sided sheet, which means you will be able to absorb the new additions and get into playing within 15-20 minutes.\nAll in all the components are up to the usual high standard of any Carcassonne title.\nImage Courtesy of <PERSON>\nNew Elements\nTraders Builders offers 3 new additions to change the play of the basic game. It also offered a couple of little extras.\nNew Tiles – Traders Builders adds 24 new tiles to the Carcassonne mix to make for a total of 96 tiles (using base game) or 114 tiles in play (if also using Inns Cathedrals) per game.\nThe Trade Goods – Justifying the ‘Traders’ part of the title, 20 of the new tiles feature a particular goods symbol. The goods include Wine (9), Grain (6) and Cloth (5). These goods are always located within a piece of City.\nWhen a player places a tile that completes a City, they are allowed to take 1 matching Goods Token for each icon located in the City. This collection is done regardless of who owns the Meeple in the City and they are awarded even if the City contained no Meeple.\nAt the end of the game, 10 points are awarded to any player holding a majority of tokens in any one Trade Good. Thus a total of 30 points can be earned in this way at games end. In the event of a tie all players are entitled to the 10 points.", "84" ] ]

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[ [ "Custom Arduino Board\nIntroduction: Custom Arduino Board\nI have work with Arduino from few years. It makes easy our electronic projects. But I was thinking how to make boards like Arduino?. When I make a permanent projects like clocks, whether stations. I have to keep my Arduino there forever I have to break that project or buy another one for another project. With this I can easily make any project with it's circuit. all I have to do is solder the components to this one.\nand Hope this will be a cool and fun project.\nSupplies\nFor this project we need some Supplies.\n* ATmega 328 -1\n* 22pf -2\n* 16 MHz crystal -1\n* USB ASP programmer -1\n* pin hedders male,femail\n* Ic bace(for atmega 328)\n* Double side PCB( I used Dot board )\n* 7805 IC -1\n* 0.33uf capacitor -1\n* 10uf capacitor -1\nNote: When you buy the USBASP programmer make sure to by the small 10 to 6 pin adapter.\nThese are for the circuit and I brought them via alixpress website.\nI took these Supplies images from the internet.\nAnd we need Basic Soldering skills, soldering iron, etc.\nStep 1: Video\nCustom Arduino board\nStep 2: Gather All the Components\nWhen you are going to make this project. gather all the components to your table. It will be easy to you.\nStep 3: Make the Circuit\nRead the diagram and build the circuit.\nIt explains how to connect vires, components etc.\nPlace the components according to diagram on the dot board. Then check them again. After checked them, begin to solder the circuit.\nCheck where the components placed and how It will also help you just like the diagram.\nAdd a LED to your Board. The built in led Is on the D13 pin. Make sure to add a resister otherwise led could burn.\nStep 4: Make the Digital and Analog Pins\nNow Get the pin herders and place them on both sides of Microcontroller as Arduino. These will allow you to Connect sensors etc.\nJust like normal Arduino.\nPlease check Images. These will help you to understanding.\nAnd you can label your pins if you like.", "611" ], [ "Ex: A0 , A1\nStep 5: Power Section\nAdd a 5v power regulator circuit to the project. So we can use it with a battery pack.\nCheck the circuit diagram and connect the 5v out put to VCC and GND pins of our Arduino.\nStep 6: Make Pins for Programmer\nNow, Here we are going to program our board using a USB programmer and Arduino Software. So for that we are using six pins.\nIn here I'm explaining how to make that part.\nFor communication with USB programmer we are using MISO MOSI SCK RESET VCC and GND pins. these are the six pins I mentioned earlier.\nIf you look at a programmer you will notice that it Comes with six pins 3 for one line. So we need to make suitable port in our board.\nPlease check images.\nGet pin header and break it to 2 pieces that include 3 of them in a one piece. and place them like in image and solder them. Now mark one side.(make it GND or VCC so it will easy to remember the side of your pins). Solder six pins to the Microcontroller. Then begin to make the connections.(check carefully images).\nStep 7: Prepare the Programmer\nTo Use the Programmer we need to Install some Drivers to our Computer.\nFor that go to this site :<PERSON>\nClick on download.\nAfter download it. Open it.\nPlug the USBASP programmer to the computer.\nGo to Options -> List all devices (tick on this)\nSelect Usbasp on the select bar.\nSelect the driver\nInstall it.\nThere are 6 drivers and to many people it worked only two of them. They were : . So I recommend to install one of them.\nThen go to device manager. You will see A device called Usbasp that successfully installed our driver.\nI included images of these steps.\nStep 8: Upload the Bootloader\nIf we want to work with our Arduino we need to install a Arduino bootloader. Its like our computer OS. It only need to install one time.\nThere are several ways to install bootloader to atmega 328 and you can find many tutorials from the internet.\nConnect the Programmer to the our board\nSelect the board as Arduino Uno.\nProgrammer as Usbasp.\nIn tools click the Burn bootloader.\nThis will burn the bootloader to our atmega328.\nStep 9: Lets Make It Work\nNow place the micro controller on the IC base.", "379" ], [ "Home Automation System With Your Own Application (android App)\nIntroduction: Home Automation System With Your Own Application (android App)\nI was minded to make a home automation system since few months. So I made a system in last month.\nIt works with Internet. So I can control my system anywhere in the world with internet access.\nTo control this system I made my own mobile application ( Android application ) instead of using normal app like Blink.\nIn this tutorial I will explain how I made my home automation system.\nHome automation System\nIf we take hardware parts\n* I used ESP32 dev module (This microcontroller will receive commands from our phone and operate the system)\n* relay system (This receive the signals from the microcontroller and working as a switch to operate the AC units)\nThese are the main parts and I used some I.E.Ds for testing and to get status.\nSoftware,\nI used MIT app inventor to make mobile application\nFor coding part on ESP32 I used Arduino application\nIn my project I want to send data from anywhere in the world to my system.\nFor that part I used data base called google firebase\nLet's check what we need to make this project.\nSupplies\nWe need Some electronics and some softwares to this project.\n* ESP32 devkit v1 module (You can use any ESP32 module)\n* Relay module\n* Some LEDs (For testing)\n* 10K resistors\n* M to F jumping wires\nSoftwares,\nArduino application (To program ESP32 module.)\nMobile app (To control our system)\nStep 1: How It Works?..\nCheck the image. As image describes, First from the phone we sent data to the data base. Via internet. Then data base store data in cloud. It updates Realtime.\nThen our esp32 takes the data from the database.\nSo simply we send commands from the phone and esp32 takes them then work according to it.!\nStep 2: Data Base\nWith this Realtime cloud-base database we can send data anywhere from the world if we have a internet connection.\nSo what this Data base do is It takes data that we send from the phone and store it on a cloud.\nFor that we use database called Google firebase\n( Firebase is a platform developed by Google for creating mobile and web applications. It was originally an independent company founded in 2011. In 2014, Google acquired the platform and it is now their flagship offering for app development.)\nStep 3: Build a Data Base\nWe need to create firebase project and need to create Realtime data base.\nHere are the steps to create the database.\nFirst, Log in to your google Account.\nOpen your browser, Search google firebase.\nClick on their website.\nThen go to console.\nMake new project.\nAfter create you a new project go to Realtime data base.\nThen create a Realtime data base.\nCopy your URL in database project and save it somewhere. We need that URL later.\nNow go to project settings.\nThen service accounts -> database secrets .\nCopy your and save your Secret key.", "382" ], [ "It also need us later.\nCheck the images. They explain how to do these all steps step by step.\nStep 4: Android Application\nSo, Let's make our own App. I'll put a video that explains how to create mobile app to automation system.\nDownload it from here : App\nNote : If you use this sample , Application is a saved file and you have to open Mit app invertor and open that file from it. Then you can change it as you want. After you add Url and Token build your app and use it.\nAfter you installed the application Open the database and check if database is update live when you click the buttons.\nIf it is updating, we are good to go!.\nStep 5: Make the Circuit\nNow we have database and App, all we need is the circuit. To build the circuit, find those circuit parts and bring them to on your table.\nCheck the diagram. Build it according to the diagram.\nNote: You can connect relay power pins to whatever you want power supply. But note signal pins coming from the ESP32. So you need to make Common Ground. Connect the GND pin of relay to one of GND pin on sp32.\nFew ELDs in the diagram are for testing.\nStep 6: Coding Part\nSo now we need to make a code to work our circuit according to our commands.\nFor that we should make a code that should be able to get data from the data base live and run the circuit according to that data.\nFirst of all open the Arduino software.\nThen select the board as ESP32 dev module.\nAnd select the correct port.", "977" ], [ "Smart Desk LED Light | Smart Lighting W/ Arduino | Neopixels Workspace\nIntroduction: Smart Desk LED Light | Smart Lighting W/ Arduino | Neopixels Workspace\nNow a days we are spending a lot of time at home, studying and working virtualy, so why not to make our workspace greater with a custom and smart lighting system Arduino and Ws2812b LEDs based.\nHere I show you how build your Smart Desk LED Light that you can control with an IR remote controller from your TV, Home theater, or any device with IR transmitter.\nIf you are a visual learner I know that a video worth more than 1000 words, so here is a 2 parts Tutorial video. (I am a Spanish speaker, so please consider turning on English subtitles):\nStep 1: Skills Needed\nAs you can noticed, nothing looks very difficult on this project, but you will need some basics knowings about:\n-Using the Arduino IDE.\n-Programming ESP8266.\n-3D printing.\n-Welding.\n-Wiring.\nStep 2: Components and Parts List\nA good place I can recommend to find your components, it's MakerFocus, it's an Open Source Hardware Store!\n1. PCB I really recommend to use JLCPCB SMT Services to order yours.\n2. ESP8266 (Microcontroller).\n3. WS2812 LEDs Strips.\n4. 5v 2A Power Supply.\n5. PCB Power Jack.\n6. 3D Printer.\n7. IR Sensor\n8. Remote controller, could be your TV one.\nStep 3: Circuit Diagram\nHere is the Circuit diagram, it has all the internal conections of the circuit that will allow us to create the PCB design later.\nI also attached the PDF of the Schematics so you can see it better.\nDOWNLOAD Schematics, Code and Libraries for FREE.\nStep 4: PCB Design and Ordering\nFor the implementation of a good project we need a reliable assembly for the circuit that makes it up, and there is no better way to do it than with a good PCB.\nHere you can download the Gerber, BOM and Pick & Place Files, the ones you need to order your PCB on your PCB manufacturing company.\nI suggest JLCPCB:\n📦$2 for Five - 4 Layers PCBs & cheap SMT (2 Coupons)\nBUY THE ALREADY DESIGNED BOARD, Gerber + Pick & Place + BOM\nStep 5: 3D Parts Printing\nAll the files to print the project enclosure.\nYou can print them on your 3D printer, if you haven't got yours, here you can by the one I use.\n3D Printer Ender 3 Pro\nStep 6: Programming the ESP8266\n1. Install the Libraries that will the code works\n2.", "382" ], [ "Open your Arduino IDE.\n3. Go to File > Examples > IRremoteESP8266 > IRrecvDemo\n4. This example Code will let you copy the IR code that transmits the remote controller key you want to use.\n5. In the IRrecvDemo, update the kRecvPin to the one you have connected with the IR Sensor.\n6. Connect your ESP8266 to the programmer and connect the IR Sensor to your selected Pin.\n7. Upload the code.\n8. Open the Serial monitor and press the keys you want to know the code, and copy and save them on notes.\n9. Open the MCM-LED-DESK.ino code.\n10. Set the kRecvPin to 3, the pixels are connected on pin 0 and the pixels count in my case is 80.\n11. In the Leer() function, update the code of the If's to the ones of your remote controller.\n12. Upload the code to the ESP8266 using the project PCB and a USB to TTL converter\nStep 7: ESP8266 ADC Hack\nAs you noticed, my design can be used with a ESP-07 or ESP-01, but in my case I used the ESP-01 and it doesn't have the ADC (Tout) pin reachable so I had to solder a tiny wire in the Tout pin of the chip and connect it on the PCB ADC pin.\nStep 8: Project Assembly\nPlace the PCB with everything connected already in the box, screw it, place the potentiometer nut and knob, glue the IR sensor and close everything with screws or more glue :D.\nStep 9: Placing the Strips and Control Unit\nGlue the Strips on your desk or desired place, they already has glue but I secured them with some hot glue.\nCut it at your desk/place size, be sure the connector can reach the control box and glue it too.", "977" ], [ "Contact Digital Thermometer With Deep Sleep [Attiny85]\nIntroduction: Contact Digital Thermometer With Deep Sleep [Attiny85]\nThis might seem totally useless, considering how advance current technology can be and you might even be like \"Tsk! a Thermometer?\"\nBut there is a lot of experiment based on temperature (water temperature, room temperature, etc) so digital thermometer becomes a key instrument for temperature measurement considering the other alternatives and cost/performance ratio. It is used from measuring temperature of human body to measuring temperature of chemical substances. So, In this Instructable we'll build a digital thermometer which runs on a single CR2032 cell for almost 140days! (In makers term that is amazing!) and also run through optimizing the code and circuit for running in low power. Just to add some nostalgic moment, I used the piezo sensor to reset the thermometer that people usual do with a Mercury-in-glass thermometer.\nSo, enough with the story grab your supplies and let's get started.\nSupplies\nThese are the list of products which can help you do this project with ease\n(Affiliate Link)\n* ATTINY 85 : https://amzn.to/3bB8t8p\n* ATTINY dev board : https://amzn.to/3bC1cp3\n* Piezo : https://amzn.to/2S6yo0V\n* Arduino Nano : https://amzn.to/3tY8I3E\n* PETG filament : https://amzn.to/3w6bB46\n* DS18B20 : https://amzn.to/3ylGRy0\n* OLED display : https://amzn.to/2VcEATc\n* CR2032 : https://amzn.to/3ysFiOX\n* CR2032 battery holder : https://amzn.to/3fsFhl8\n* Resistor Kit : https://amzn.to/3frj4nx\n* 3d Printer : https://amzn.to/3trVWKw\n* Printer Upgrades : https://amzn.to/3hbK3Ga\nStep 1: Temperature Sensor DS18B20\nLet's start with the core part of the project, the temperature sensor.\nWhy DS18B20?\nThere are different sensors to choose from, based on accuracy, type and how they transfer the data to the microcontroller. but I chose the DS18B20, because it’s very well designed to read temperature from an external object, and it requires only one wire to read the data from this sensor. Also this is better for this project because of the metal probe, or it would be difficult to make a custom metal probe to make the contact point and the other major reasons are, the sensor is supported by a variety of libraries with Arduino and consumes only 5uA when it’s on sleep mode.\nStep 2: Interfacing DS18B20 With a Microcontroller\nTo interface this. You can use any microcontroller because the sensor uses a protocol called one wire which is totally dependent on the software rather than the hardware, all you need is a single GPIO pin of the microcontroller.\nJust for the sake of this example I will use the Nodemcu. The circuit connection is easy as it gets.", "152" ], [ "Connect the power supply i.e red wire to +3.3V, black wire to ground and the yellow data wire to D2 of the NodeMCU, that’s it. finally Don't forget this important step, add a 4.7k pull resistor between the 3.3v and the data pin. If not, the microcontroller won’t read the data from the sensor.\nStep 3: Testing DS18B20\nNow we can program the Nodemcu, Just go to your Arduino IDE and download the Dallas temperature sensor library and one wire library. Once that’s been installed. Go to example and open the simple temperature sensor example and change the pin wherever the sensor is connected too, in my case it’s pin D2 which is GPIO 4.\nCompile and upload the code.\nOnce, the code is uploaded you can open the serial monitor. You see the sensor data is shown here, but this DS18B20 sensor doesn’t instantly show accurate temperature readings same as commercial thermometers, it takes a while to settle down at the correct value, you can also see how this affects in the final build. So, for the sake of this experiment, I have reduced it to the measurement time to 15 seconds. But in case you need a better accuracy you can always increase the measurement time in the code.", "991" ], [ "A Signboard for My Store or My House\nIntroduction: A Signboard for My Store or My House\nMy idea came from https://www.instructables.com/Arduino-Ultrasonic-S... I made some changes according to my needs.\nI designed an LED signboard to say \"Hello\" to my friends who come to my house or to say \"Hello\" to my customers who come to my shop (if I have one in the future). More letters on the signboard will light up as someone comes nearer and nearer. The signboard will make a welcome sound and the letters on the signboard will shine when someone is at the door. When it gets dark, the letters on the signboard will light up automatically. This shows people where my house or my shop is. I can hang the signboard on the door of my house or my shop so that people will know that I welcome them to my house or my shop! HELLO! Welcome here!\nStep 1: Prepare Hardware Required\nWhat you need:\n1. Breadboard x1\n2. Arduino board (I am currently using Arduino Leonardo.)\n3.", "769" ], [ "Double-sided PCB board x 6\n4. LEDs ( red, blue, green, and yellow)\n5. Jumper cables; wires\n6. Resistors x 6 (Note: for more safety of LED)\n7. Mosfet x 6\n8. HC-SR04 ultrasonic distance sensor x1\n9. Speaker x1\n10. Foam board x 1\n11. Paper box x 1\nStep 2: Design Your Sign\nAfter getting all the materials needed, arrange the LEDs on the PCB board to make the five letters H, E, L, L, O, and a smiling face.\nThe steps are shown in the pictures.\nStep 3: Assemble the Other Parts\nThe ways of assembling are shown in the circuit diagram.\nEach of the five letters--H, E, L, L, O, and the smiling face is controlled by a different wire. You need to label them or you'll get confused easily because there are too many wires.\nStep 4: Programming\nNow it's time to start programming the code.\nMy code is attached below.\nhttps://create.arduino.cc/editor/danielliu0000/26b...\nStep 5: Do the Decoration If Needed\nHide all your materials into a box and you are done.", "635" ], [ "Arduino 74hc595 Rgb Leds With 20 Effects\nIntroduction: Arduino 74hc595 Rgb Leds With 20 Effects\nIn this Tutorial, I will show you how to make an RGB-led circuit with 20 effects by using Arduino UNO and shift registers 74hc595.\nI am thinking about how to control more than 20 led with Arduino Uno because Arduino Uno only has 13 digital pins. So how It's possible?\nThat's why I am using shift register 74hc595. We need only 3 Arduino digital pins to control multiple RGB-leds using 74hc595 shift registers. If want to learn how shift register works? click here.\nSupplies\nLet's start with gathering components for 74hc595 RGB-led effects.\n1. Arduino Uno\n2. Shift registers (74hc595) X 5\n3. RGB LEDs X 12\n4. 270-ohm Resistor X 36\n5. Full-size breadboard X 2\n6.", "1014" ], [ "Jumper Wire.\nStep 1:\nHow many RGB LEDs can an Arduino control?\nThe answer is 2 RGB LEDs is controlled by Arduino Uno because one RGB LEDs require 3 PWM pins to control the brightness and color, but there is only six PWM pin in Arduino Uno.\nHow to control multiple LEDs with Arduino?\nAs you know, we have only 6 PWM pins and, if we want to control multiple LEDs by Arduino Uno is not possible, so that's why we are using shift registers 74hc595to control multiple LEDs. By using numerous shift registers as a daisy chain technique, we can run as many LEDs as you want.\nSo in this tutorial, I will show you how to make a circuit and how to program it.\nStep 2: Circuit Diagram of 12 RGB Led Effects\nThe circuit diagram seems complex, but it's not that I'll guide you through step by step to build the circuit.\nTake a breadboard after that, start placing shift registers on the breadboard and make sure that each IC having a gap in-between.\nNow we have to connect RGB LEDs, but there are two types of RGB LEDs.\n1. Common anode LED\n2. Common cathode LED\nStep 3: Building the Circuit\nIn this tutorial, I'm using a common cathode LED, so bend the tall lead (cathode pin) of the led and connect it to the GND terminal of the breadboard. Do the same for all RGB LEDs.\n*For common anode LED circuit diagram and code should be different.\nNext, connect a 220-ohm resistor to each pin of the RGB LED to protect the led from high current.\nStep 4:\nNext, connect shift register pins 16 (VCC) and 10 (SRCLR) to the breadboard 5v terminal and connect pins 8 (GND) to the breadboard GND terminal.\nTo build a daisy chain circuit, we have to connect the shift register to another.\nNow, connect a jumper wire between shift register pin 9 (Q7`) to another shift register pin 14 (DS) for sending data to another IC. Do the same for other shift registers.\nConnect a jumper wire between shift register pin 13 (OE) to another shift register pin 13 (OE). OE pin is used to control the brightness of the LEDs. Do the same for other shift registers.\nConnect a jumper wire between shift register pin 12 (RCLK) to another shift register pin 12 (RCLK). Do the same for other shift registers.\nConnect a jumper wire between shift register pin 11 (SRCLK) to another shift register pin (SRCLK). Do the same for other shift registers.\nNow we have to connect RGB LEDs to the shift register.\n* Connect led pin 1 to shift register pin 15 (Q0).\n* Connect led pin 2 to shift register pin 1 (Q1).\n* Connect led pin 3 to shift register pin 2 (Q2).\n* Connect second led pin 1 to shift register pin 3 (Q3).\n* Connect second led pin 2 to shift register pin 4 (Q4).\n* Connect second led pin 3 to shift register pin 5 (Q5).\n* Connect third led pin 1 to shift register pin 6(Q6).\n* Connect third led pin 2 to shift register pin 7(Q7).\n* Connect third led pin 3 to another shift register pin 15(Q0).\nRepeat the same process for other RGB LEDs.\nNext, we need to connect the shift register (74hc595) to the Arduino Uno to control it.\n* Connect the shift register Pin 14 (DS) to the Arduino pin 12.\n* Connect the shift register Pin 13 (DS) to the Arduino pin 11.\n* Connect the shift register Pin 12 (RCLK) to the Arduino pin 10.", "854" ], [ "Arduino & TFT Screen Volume Mixer\nIntroduction: Arduino & TFT Screen Volume Mixer\nBefore i start this AMAZING tutorial on how to build a physical windows volume mixer, i want to apologize for my bad written English. Now, let's get started.\nFor this project I would like to build a sound mixer, but with a tft screen so i can see what I'm doing. I know there is a lot of projects like mine, but their can only control 5 apps while I can control thousand.\nFor this project you will need :\n1. Arduino Uno/Nano x1\n2. 1.8' TFT screen that use SPI x1\n3. USB A to USB B cable x1\n4. Push button x3\n5. Potentiometer x1\n6. M3 screw (18 to 38 mm long) x4\n7. Some resistors\nLike you see, you don't need that much items. I bought almost all of them on \"Aliexpress\" and it cost me around 10 $.\nStep 1: Make the Circuit\nI started to build the circuit on a breadboard and test everything out. For this step, you just have to follow the schematics or follow the following instructions.\n* Plug the potentiometer\n1. Left pin connected to GND\n2. Right pin connected to 5V\n3. Center pin connected to A0\n* Plug the button\n1. One pin is connected to 5V\n2. The second pin as to be connected to a digital input\n3. There is only 2 interrupt pin on Arduino Uno so I have to connect the third button on DigitalPin7.\n* Plug the screen\n1. GND connected to GND\n2.", "1003" ], [ "VDD connected to 5V\n3. SCL connected to Digital 13\n4. SDA connected to Digital 11\n5. RST connected to Digital 9\n6. DC connected to Digital 8\n7. CS connected to Digital 10\n8. BLK connected to 3.3V\n/!\\ You have to add pull up/down resistor on all buttons to use it correctly /!\\\nTo do it just plug a high value resistor connected to the DigitalPin and to ground at the same time and its done.\nStep 2: The Code : the Worst Part of All Time\nWell obviously some people would love to code but, I don't.\nAll the code has been written by hand on Arduino IDE. As I'm French all the variable names are written in French but don't panic, with the help of google translate you could understand it easily.\nItis a little messy but I will show you what to change if you want to custom it.\n1. First thing you can change is the time before sleep mode. There is a variable on line 14 which is called \"TEMPS_VEILLE\" . By default the time is 20 seconds.\n2. Second thing is time before everything goes back to the main menu. You can change it by changing on line 16 the variable called \"TEMPS_RETOUR_MENU_PRINCIPAL\"\n3. Last but not least on line 18 you can change the sound volume when the device will be plug. By default its at 50%. The variable name is \"INITIAL_SON\"\nNow the data come out from your Arduino but you have to receive it on your computer. To do this job I used deej.\nDeej is a nicely premade program that run on windows/Linux. For those who own an apple devices, I'm sorry but it will not work.\nTo use it just download it and launch it by using admin right. Then you will need to change the config.yaml by the one I will give you.\nOn games menu, if your games doesn't work just add it under all the games names after the number 14 :\nStep 3: 3D Modeling\nWell this was my first experiences with 3d modeling but I thing the result is quite good. I used fusion 360 because the software was totally free for students.\nIn this part you have a lot of thing to do, unless you need to make your own design.\nIf you want to do it by yourself, don't forgot to add some air outlet to fresh up all the components.\nStep 4: 3D Printing\nFor this part you will need a 3D printer or to buy all the part online.\nI personally own a ender 3 a little customized.\nI sliced all the files with \"cura slicer\" … I tried to use \"ideamaker\" but for the moment I'm not used to it yet .\nNow lets print !\nit took me 15 hours to print the upper part and 6 hours to print the lower part .\nI printed it at 210° degree and the bed was at 60° .", "149" ], [ "Arduino 4in1 Robot Projects\nIntroduction: Arduino 4in1 Robot Projects\nHello friend!\nIn this tutorial, I'm going to show you how to make arduino 4in1 robot that you can easily build at home. First line follow robot, Second obstacle avoiding, Third the line follow robot with obstacle avoiding, and fourth the object follows robot. Visit my website for more tutorials.\nStep 1: ​Component Requirement:\n1. Arduino Uno is the brain of the robot.\n2. Motor driver l298n for controlling the motor.\n3. 2 sets of IR sensors for line tracking and object follow.\n4. Ultrasonic sensor (hc-sr04) with mount for detecting an object.\n5. Servo motor.\n6. 2 sets of Bo motors with the wheel.\n7. Caster wheel.\n8.", "949" ], [ "Jumper wire.\nnow, we have all the components\nStep 2: Let's Build the Circuit:\nFirst, Take a chassis 13 x 16 size and then stick Bo-motors on the bottom of chassis with the help of double tap after that stick a caster wheel too. With this robot easily move and rotate.\nFor command the robot we need an arduino Uno and then we need a motor controller l298n and stick both on the chassis . you can also control motor with l293d IC.\nNow connect the motor to the motor driver. Motor 1 is connected to the out 1 and 2. Motor 2 is connected to the out 3 and 4.\nConnect the motor driver to the Arduino Uno.\nFirst, EnableA pin is Connected to the Arduino pin 11.\nIN1 pin is Connected to Arduino pin 13.\nIN2 pin is Connected to Arduino pin 12.\nIN3 pin is Connected to Arduino pin 7.\nIN4 pin is Connected to Arduino pin 6.\nEnableB is Connected to Arduino pin 5.\nEnableA and EnableB is use for controlling speed of the motor.\nNext, take a wheel and attach it to the Bo motor.\nStep 3:\nNext, take an IR sensor and stick it on the front of the chassis after that stick a breadboard too for power connection.\nConnect the Arduino 5v pin to the breadboard positive side and gnd pin to the breadboard negative side.\nNow, connect the IR sensors to the Arduino Uno.\nConnect right IR sensor Out pin to Arduino pin 4.\nConnect the Vcc pin to the 5v.\nConnect the GND pin to the GND.\nConnect left IR sensor Out pin to Arduino pin 3.\nConnect the Vcc pin to the 5v.\nconnect the GND pin to the GND.\nNext, connect a dc jack with the switch to the motor driver for powering.\nPositive terminal is connected to the motor driver input pin and Negative terminal is connected to the Motor Driver GND pin and also connect Arduino GND pin to the Motor Driver GND pin for a logic connection after that take servo motor and stick it on the chassis.\nConnect servo motor signal pin to Arduino pin 2, Vcc pin to 5v, and gnd pin to gnd.\nNext, Take an ultrasonic sensor and attach it to the mount with the help of a screw after that Attach an ultrasonic sensor on the top of the servo motor and secure it with a screw. It will help us to rotate the sensor and get the left and right distances. If you want to Know how ultrasonic sensor works?\nTo connect the ultrasonic sensor with Arduino.\nConnect VCC pin to Arduino 5v pin.\nTrig pin is Connected to Arduino A5 pin.\nEcho pin is Connected to Arduino A4 pin.\nGnd pin is Connected to Arduino gnd pin.\nStep 4:\nNow stick a supporter on the mount with help of a double-tap and then take an IR sensor and stick it on the supporters. With this IR sensor robot can detect the object and follow it.\nfor the connection of IR sensor,\nLeft IR sensor signal pin is connected to Arduino pin A0.\nRight IR sensor signal pin is connected to Arduino pin A1.\nConnect VCC pin to 5v. Connect gnd pin to gnd.\nNow, take a 7.4-volt lion battery and stick it on the bottom of the chassis. Don't use a 9v volt battery for powering the motor driver. Connect the battery to the dc jack.\nNow, the circuit is completed.\nStep 5: Coding:\nconnect the USB from computer to the Arduino for program it.\nUpload the line follower code after that remove the USB and connect a 9v battery to the Arduino dc jack.\n*** IMPORTANT***\nNow, we have to calibrate the IR sensor for that rotate its potentiometer until it detected a black and white surface.", "230" ] ]

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[ [ "There is a very strong argument from reason which states that; if the properties and qualifications of armaments of a sufficient variety of other space craft is established, the close approximations of the falcons quad guns can be determined by relative similarities and differences in design, construction, size, etc.\nWhat generally renders this sort of comparative determination by process of identification of visible and indexed features (i.e. they are seen in operation and responsive function, such as four barrels mounted from an over-hanging swiveling yoke, firing repeatedly by cycling pairs - top and bottom - while fire triggering is continuously depressed, or in a single burst of two shots when a precisely targeted single shot is made with observably greater power (and a different sound resonating in through the hull of the ship, which is more akin to a rapid double \"spitting\" sound).\nThe explanation for the observed initial upward/downward assent/descent toward accessing the turrets is simple: they are dog-leg routs to bypass having to also open the inner airlock seals in order to access the symmetrical vertical corridors presumably used for docking, which if opened for the sake of gaining access, coupled with the opening of the armored shielding and airlock seals of the exterior would unnecessarily compromise the entire hull and atmospheric entegrity of the ship should one of the turret/windows sustain a direct hit, blowing the whole ship (as presumably such a hit would cause to the turret positions where they are usually identified as being located).\nWhere any attempts at such a comparative evaluation break down is in the inability of the supporting technical information of the falcon to account for the situation of the quad guns in the positions where they are pointed toward as being located - the top (at the level of the communication array, but recessed, and though apparently facing with window facing directly upward at a 90 degree angle from the horizontal planes of the ship which its internal gravitational field generators are calibrated to distribute across to facilitate walking, rolling and falling down, shows a gravitational symmetry of the vertical axis within the firing cabin - in other words, gravity and the centrifugal force effect of the seating control and turret swivel are consistent with a center of gravity effect below the seat, not behind it which in the case of the top quad gun would otherwise have its operator pulled toward the back of the chair, and the operator of the oppositely directed hull gun falling forward if not heavily strapped in.\nSo there is a large portion of engineering specification missing which describes the additional gravitational field generators which have..", "441" ], [ "to feed into the cabins, the mechanical and power requirements of which will have a great baring on the way by which the quad guns are powered, coordinated and calibrated.\nWith the quad guns placed in the positions attested to, the properties of their function can not be determined without further supplemental explanation of how the surrounding physical mechanics are designed and implemented.\nThat is the quandry. The argument from reason strongly suggests that the location of the quad guns is merely misidentified as being top/bottom - situated, and oppositely vertically facing, with diagonally angled forward adjusted turrets [which does not correspond with the interior view perspective]. And can be quite easily explained and accounted for if situated at the port and starboard hatches with the blast shield and docking seal doors opened, with the turrets dropping down from overhead stowage, and the firing seats being unfolded from below as their design suggests in two - dimentional side view cutaways.", "537" ], [ "Electromagnetic anomalies that weaken the gravitational pull between the earth and the moon to such a state that escape velocity is made possible at much lower speed and with less inertia then being necessary to be freed from the gravitational relationship that binds them.\nThese \"anomalies\" are presently being produced all over earth by artificial means and the definition could be expanded to include any man made device that produces an electric field or magnetic force, or the combined total effect of all these artificially produced electromagnetic fields or forces, and not limited to only man made devices, yet also to include the electromagnetic and gravitational forces of galactic origin exerting their combined and constantly changing effects on other celestial systems,including our own, these effects combined also with the sum total of all artificial sources produced on and around earth, some of which would include;\nvery strong production of electromagnetic fields involved in particle collision projects, and possibly even some particle manipulations themselves and the molecules, molecular effects and or changes to molecular processes that have been produced by them both intentionally and unintentionally.\nthe entire cumulative effect of energy production in every nation on earth to harness electrical power and transmission of such, including nuclear processes.\nthe total and cumulative effect of the transportation technologies on earth, both fueled, and electric, and possibly even the effect of movement of mass amounts of cars, trains, planes, etc. in many places and with constant motion.\nthe total, combined, and cumulative effect of the communication technologies on earth, along with all the devices that make communication possible and the transmission of communication by various energies, such as microwaves, lasers, and electrical impulses.\n....the list of \"anomalies\" is ever expanding from many origins, on and off this planet.....\nit's best summed up by this description....a rock, possibly a very big one, thrown in a pool of water makes ripples, these ripples when encountering objects in the water cause other ripples, and these ripples then influence the ripples around them until soon there are ripples accumulating in every direction changing all the othe ripples as well as themselves being changed by other ripples, and where some of these ripples meet there are momentary \"anomalies\" making a small splash instead of a ripple.\n....these \"anomalies\" effect change of a previous state of existing.", "781" ], [ "Newtonian Physics certainly precludes the existence of any 'truly' perpetual motion. Under certain conditions, we can achieve near perpetual motion by judicious application of principles and then form questions like \"Although no work can be removed from the system, is the lifetime of the magnetic force in a magnet sufficient that running for several years is an acceptable answer?\"\nRegarding the device device shown in the question, which is a modification of <PERSON> device similar to this one, the problems inherent in <PERSON>'s machine are compounded with the design shown here. Gravity is the overwhelming force to overcome in this experiment, friction plays only a small part, but we also can't overlook the current induced in the movement of the ball, which does eventually become the principle force degrading the perpetuation of motion. Here however, if the magnet was strong enough to overcome the inertia and the gravitational force of the weight on an incline, it would have sufficient energy to attach to the magnet at the top. Even without friction, and let's say that we started the ball at the top to give it an initial kinetic force, when it reached the 2nd hole, the magnet would not only have to overcome gravity, but the overall motion away from the magnet at the top, as it passed through the 2nd hole it would behave more like a skier doing a ski jump and fly away from the machine. So the magnet would also have to over come this motion, and reverse the balls direction as it is now also moving away with a velocity equal to the kinetic energy from dropping the ball minus friction.\n<PERSON> overcomes this with an additional ramp at the bottom, which by converting the linear motion into angular motion which reverses the direction of the ball and conserves that kinetic motion to move the ball partway up the ramp. Even so, this is not enough to overcome gravity, and friction, and the counter force of an induced current to enable it to pull the ball all the way up, while being weak enough to allow the ball to drop through the hole.", "621" ], [ "I believe, but have not tested or proven, that perhaps a reduction of gravity would make this machine feasible, like on the moon. It appears also, that because the ball is made of metal that is attracted to the magnet, the forces in the ball can set up a induced current counter field, due to the material the ball is made of and its in the field. A reverse lenz effect is present that would also contribute a force the magnet would have to overcome. This would require a superfine balance between a completely attractive force, and the opposing forces. The machine looks very promising; but, on a very subtle level has counter forces from gravity, friction, and a reverse lenz effect which counter the kinetic energy built up in the balls motion which pretty much stop the action from perpetuating fairly quickly.\nIn the video I link, the original author of the video overcomes this effect through the pulsing of the strength of an electromagnet hidden in the base holding the permanent magnet. By turning the electromagnet off at the right moment either manually or by inductive sensing, the ball drops. So, I agree, it is very close to possible; but, it just isn't possible. I have a sense that being able to tweak gravity might be enough to make the device function under the right gravitational force, but have a real concern that eddy currents in the metal ball would provide the eventual force that would counter any possibility of it working.\nAs a magnetic field problem, due to <PERSON>'s laws and <PERSON>' law, the problem is a lot more complex mathematically than it looks, we tend to overlook the ball's effect on the magnetic field as it would be moving and shifting the flux density which would induce a current which would affect the movement and flux density in opposition to the movement.", "621" ], [ "Living on a giant banana world\nIn my story, which should be taken entirely seriously, mankind encounters a region of space occupied mostly by giant exo-householdobjects.\nThat is, planet sized kettles, saucers, teacups, cutlery, etc. There is even a giant <PERSON> branded teapot, because this is how serious a story it is. They orbit around perfectly ordinary stars of various sizes.\nThe protagonists are going to spend a significant amount of time stuck on a giant banana while observing a solar system with many such objects. They are mostly incredibly impractical people - philosophers, theologians and so on - with a small cohort of ships engineers and tradesmen, as well as a rapacious mine manager called <PERSON> who only cares about the giant silverware.", "322" ], [ "They're very well supplied with everything they could want except the means to get offworld.\nLeave aside the problem of gravity trying to make the banana into a sphere - assume that either the banana is mostly made of a nearly infinitely strong material when you drill much beneath the peel, or better still, that gravity is excluded from operating within it and only begins at the surface (albeit with all the mass of the banana still contributing). With a sunlike star, what combination of orbital distance and rotational motion can make this pungent, ethyne laced world in the sweet spot of being inhabitable but periodically very uncomfortable or dangerous?\nI'm specifically interested in: 1) and main) What problems are generated by rotation of the banana and what if any rotational motions are amenable to life at least over a few square kilometres while still being a damned nuisance?\nSo, it needs a few square kilometres that have sort-of earth temperatures and pressures. I'll say -20 to 80 deg C temperature, and 0.3 to 3 bar pressure, with possible intermittent exceptions.\nI'm guessing depending on the axis of rotation, there are going to be areas that are uninhabitably hot/cold. I'd like to place their town in the middle of the banana on the concave side, unless there are any serious objections or better suggestions.\nFor obvious reasons, answers need only stand up to limited scrutiny.\nOrbiting fruit worlds and kettles raise such serious theological, philosophical and anthropological problems that the eggheads that are on it are only going to notice that their lives are in danger when the engineers are banging on their doors warning of the impending 30 day shadow that will cause temperatures to drop to dangerously low levels and they need to put their entire libraries in buggies or local flying craft and relocate.\nI welcome anyone raising problems relating to atmospheric composition or ground instability that are likely to arise as the banana ripens, although I am not short of ideas in this department...unlike, you know, how these people can survive for 20s without freezing or burning or being thrown off the surface.", "921" ], [ "Decompressing airlocks by opening of the outer doors is undesirable as you will lose some of your precious oxygen to the vast emptiness of space. Besides, pressure equalization by opening the hatches may be explosive in nature, as the rate at which the pressure equalizes is uncontrollable. Explosive decompression might cause damage to equipment as well as severe injury or even death.\nThe airlocks hatches shall therefore either open inward (similar to what you'll see on submarines or decompression chambers) or have a pure mechanical interlock which prevents opening the hatches unless the airlock pressure has already been equalized.\nDuring normal operation, the airlocks will be equalized by using an equalization compressor which will evacuate the air from the airlock and store it on a tank. The equalization compressor shall be equipped with emergency push buttons both on the inside and the outside of the airlock, which will stop the compressor and open a valve to bleed the air back into the airlock from the air tank.\nThere will be mechanical valves for emergency equalization of pressure between space and inside the airlock, as well as from within the airlock and to the interior of the spacecraft. The mechanical valves will require specialized tools for operation.", "35" ], [ "The valves for equalizing between space and within the airlock can only be operated from the outside or from within the airlock. Similarly, the valves for equalizing between the airlock and the spacecraft interior may only be operated from within the airlock or the spacecraft itself.\nObviously someone from the outside will have the theoretical possibility of bleeding out the airlock against the will of the crew of the space craft, but this is mostly a hypothetical situation which does not warrant any particular countermeasures unless it first proves to become a issue.\nThe requirements for safe design and operation of airlocks will be a part of the SOLIS-code (Safety Of Life In Space) sanctioned by the International Space Organization (similar to International Maritime Organization) which is an organization consisting of the different governmental space agencies of nations with vested interest in space operations. The codes will require periodic inspection of the safety functions of the space craft. The national space agencies will have the authority to inspect and to place any space craft that does not meet the SOLIS-codes under arrest until the spacecraft is up to standard. The governmental agencies can also blacklist space crafts and impose sanctions on the space craft owners in case they attempt to bypass the inspections by never docking in a regulated space port.", "35" ], [ "My initial reaction was similar to the frame challenge from <PERSON>.\nHowever, this perhaps instead gives a suitable set of pseudo-science explanations for the functioning of the drive...\nThe number of possible reference frames are as vast as the universe itself - a reference frame in which you have constant linear velocity relative to the immediate surroundings [unless acted on by a force] is basically the physics we have now (and \"the immediate surroundings\" changes as you move according to that velocity).\nSo the drive allows you to change what reference frame you maintain constant velocity relative to e.g.:\n* standing still on the surface of a planet, you engage the drive, selecting the centre of the planet on which you are standing as the reference frame. The planet continues to rotate, but no longer affected by its gravity [i.e. no longer tied to the reference frame that is constantly accelerating towards the centre of the planet] you continue travelling tangential to the surface of the planet. The effect from an observer on the planet's surface is that you slowly start to drift upwards, accelerating faster and faster until you disappear from view in the sky.\n* from the same place, you instead select the centre of the solar system - as well as the effect from the planet's rotation, you now also have an effect from the planet's orbit. Your apparent acceleration (negating the effect of the planet's own acceleration towards its sun) could be in any direction relative to the planets surface, depending on time of day...\n* similarly, if you select the centre of the galaxy, or a different planet or a different star etc. there'll be even more apparent acceleration for local observers. Pick a reference frame that itself is strongly accelerated, and you'll start accelerating very strongly (e.g. even within our own solar system you might consider mercury, or a comet on a close pass to the sun)\nWith an infinite number of reference frames to choose from, the trick would be to find one that actually accelerates you in the direction you want, and which then will also decelerate you relative to the target planet in time for when you switch the drive off, and end up conveniently in orbit around the target planet.", "562" ], [ "Skilled navigators could switch between multiple observer reference frames mid-flight.\nThere's a huge amount of hand-waving here of course, but the intention would be that an observer in your chosen reference frame would observe you continuing to move with constant linear velocity, which other observers near to you would perceive as massive acceleration in their own reference frames.\nHowever, unnoticed by the early experiments, which used large planets or stars as the reference frame for a lightweight experimental device, there's an equal and opposite effect on the chosen reference frame. Not only is there a (potentially very large) effective force on you to allow you to be observed with constant linear velocity from your chosen reference frame, but there's an equal an opposite force on the object(s) at the chosen reference frame.\nTaking the possible effects to the extreme, consider the case where either you or the chosen \"observer reference frame\" were near a black hole. As you (or the chosen observer) approach the event horizon, you would still need to be observed as having constant linear velocity by the observer, despite the massive disruption of spacetime in the vicinity of the black hole... and that implies enormous acceleration effects, and probably some changes in time perception, for you or the chosen observer, or possibly both.\n... but beyond a certain limit, the energy transmission capacity of the drive itself just breaks. As you pass over an event horizon of a sufficiently large black hole, it's certainly possible that a relatively nearby and relatively lightweight observer could be dragged in with you in order to continue to observe you with constant linear velocity at least for a little while... or that a sufficiently massive and distant observer would \"drag you away\" from the black hole as you continue on what they observe as a constant linear velocity almost but not quite touching the event horizon, but the energy to do that if you use a more massive \"anchor\" object (and have a linear trajectory from the observer's perspective that gets too close to the event horizon) would exceed the capacity of the link itself, perhaps having a similar effect as if you'd turned the drive off prematurely; it probably doesn't end well for you in that case.\nA differently-dimensioned analogy\nSuppose rather than a \"constant linear velocity\" we instead want the observer and you to maintain a constant distance. The equivalent of this \"warp drive\" is a rigid rod (or a rope under tension) with you at one end and the \"observer\" at the other. Until you let go of the rod/rope or it breaks, you'll stay a fixed distance from the observer - any movement by either of you will only be possible if the other moves too, unless the movement happens to be such that the distance stays the same.", "43" ], [ "Approximately the same time as it has taken the original to arrive at the same age and physical condition, obviously!\nYet this may not quite be acceptable from a plot point of view, so here's a few pointers on reducing that time frame, contingent on the use of the clone.\nSpare parts\nYou don't actually need a full clone for this, it should be possible to graft the organ to be replaced onto a bio-compatible host and with growth/rate accelerators you'd be looking at several months to years. Some organs are problematic: the brain, for instance (we simply don't know enough about the interconnections between all the neurons except that these interconnections are partly created through learning by the individual), but also muscles as muscles need a work out to be compatible with the individual receiving the spare part. On the bright side, you can require some re-validation therapy and it may be advantageous to use a younger version of an organ.\nRejuvenation\nThe practice where a much younger clone is used as a replacement body when old age becomes a hindrance. This requires a mind transfer technology which presumably fixes the neuron and neuron interconnection problem. There is plenty of time to grow a body (say, twenty years) and the clone body does not need much exercise and can be kept unconscious during the entire growth cycle. A period of up to a year of exercising the new body after the mind transfer (the old mind has to adapt to the much younger body) is probably acceptable as well.\nReplacement\nThe practice where a clone body is offered as a replacement in case of accidents or after being murdered.", "335" ], [ "Again, this requires a mind transfer technology in addition to regular mind recordings as a backup to restore onto the blank slate. This is one of the more difficult use cases as it requires the body to be grown fairly fast, say less than five years, while keeping it a blank slate. Another problem is to copy the physiological impact of the environment on the new body, i.e. scars, wear and tear, and so on. Without this the clone will not have an identical or even similar look! Again an adjustment period of the recorded mind to the new body of a year is acceptable.\nReplication\nThis is the use case where the genotype of successful individuals are copied to augment (or supplant, whatever the plot is) the general population. The problem here is to copy the environment and learning processes too as the phenotype is the determinant of success, not the genotype on its own. However, decades to grow and learn a clone into an individual are permissible, as each copy will be an individual, albeit very similar to another copy.\nOther uses\nThere are probably other very creative uses of clones but the main things to consider are:\n* in how far does the phenotype (result of environment and genetics) of the clone need to match the original? A blank slate is much easier than a fully trained individual.\n* how much time do you have to prepare the clone in advance? If you need anything less than a couple of years, I'd seriously look into biological 3D printing and infusing the 3d printed cells with the DNA from the host.", "335" ], [ "There is a difference between saying the speed of light is the same in any frame, and saying it is the same in all frames - because certain unexamined assumptions creep into the second statement, about the comparability of speeds.\nIt is like asserting that there is the same ratio of boys and girls in any school classroom. Equivalently, Is the ratio the same in all classrooms? Yes.\nBut, from this, do we infer that every classroom must contains the same number of girls and boys? No - in fact a classroom may contain no children, or be stuffed like the black hole of Calcutta, and still the asserted ratio is maintained so long as every boy that is present has a counterpart girl that is present.\nSo what people fail to readily appreciate is that, whilst the ratio may be constant, the underlying number of boys and girls may differ freely.\nIn other words, what does not need to stay constant in relativity, is the scales of time and distance in which the measurement of speed is expressed.\nSo the speeds are not the same in all frames, when the person asking the question implicitly expects that the speeds in each frame that are being compared, are being measured on the same scales.\nThe frame, in relativity, is the thing that defines those scales against which speed is expressed.\nI am of course saying nothing yet about why this approach is valid - I am not an educator, so I may not be entirely clear, and may raise more questions than I answer, but here goes.\nThe reason is it valid is because we have no known way of measuring time without measuring distance. That is, clocks don't measure \"time\", they measure speed - the rate of a physical process that involves regular changes in spatial position.\nThe pendulum of the grandfather clock moves back and forth in space - and it is only by devising a much more complex mechanism, that any apparent movement forward in \"time\" is counted and seen.\nIndeed, it is not entirely clear what \"time\" actually is - it is that \"other thing\" inside a timepiece that is not the position of the mechanism, but something else that has to be postulated to account for how the positions of various parts of the mechanism move.", "562" ], [ "Nor is it clear that a perfect pendulum moves forward in time - since it simply repeats the same positional relations, once forwards and once backwards.\nOther clock mechanisms exist besides the pendulum, but they are all predicated on a reciprocating action across a measure of space, and some assumption about the constancy and regularity of the time it takes to traverse that space.\nIt follows therefore that if that reciprocating action takes a different period of time to complete a cycle across a region of space, the time measured will change.\nThat is how, in relativity, the local speed of light is always constant - that is, a distance traversed reciprocally, always involves a constant period of time on a clock, because the clock itself measures that.\nTherefore, if it takes longer for a fixed distance to be traversed, the clock will slow down, and therefore the \"time\" taken to traverse that distance always remains a constant on the clock, because it is the speed of that journey which the clock was measuring in the first place - it was not measuring \"time\".\nIn other words again, clocks assume the speed of light to be constant. If it is not constant (in objective terms), then the clock cannot tell, because the reading on the clock face is always in a fixed relationship to the local speed of light.\nThat is why it is a local constant in relativity, but relativity does not say that the speed of light in one frame is equivalent to the speed in another (because each frame, by definition, is using a different scale of time, which is based on a local measurement of the speed of light by a clock that is stationary, and which is not equivalent between frames).\nAnd what relativity does say, is that the differing speeds of light for different objects, will only be detected by clocks that are moving relative to one another. It will not be detected by co-moving, local, clocks.", "562" ] ]

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[ [ "Shoah\nIgnore my rating because I think you should watch this, if you are interested in the subject matter at all.\nFirst, is this a movie? Yes, though no. I'm tempted to say a movie is a certain length. Anything over four hours becomes a series of some sort, if only for physiological reasons. I prefer to be hypnotized in one setting, yet I can't imagine anybody sitting down for all 9 hours of this in a go.\nThe artistic choices fascinate me. Rather than show us much, such as photographs or films from the Holocaust -- whatever's in the archives -- the documentary sticks only to interviews with living persons and shots of settings in their present-day (circa the early 1980s).\nThat means we have the very rare film that leaves mostly everything to our imagination. We hear the stories, we see the places, and yet neither go together obviously. The places mostly look completely serene. The effect is constant over 9 hours for me: how could such things happen in such places?\nI suppose filmmakers could learn a lot from this movie/series.", "862" ], [ "Not showing is powerful. Leaving everything to our imagination might be more powerful. That seems to be the result of \"Shoah,\" based on the ratings.\nMy concern is that this film requires a massive amount of prior knowledge. It's for people from 1985-2015. About that latter year, I'm guessing. But honestly, I'm getting students who know nothing about mid-20th century history. While this film assumes you know much, it's not going to speak well to people who get further distant from its events.\nAgain, I'm guessing on this, but I am speaking from my experience: prior knowledge/historical knowledge might be necessary here. We'll see.", "862" ], [ "Miracle Mile\nWatching \"Miracle Mile\" seems like fun, yet it's a deadly serious film overall. You can see the gloom in the writers' faces as this movie proceeds. \"What if we interrupted a romcom with a message from the base of <PERSON>, and we'll make it an apocalyptic \"After Hours?\" Yes, the world will end by nuclear holocaust, and the people in the coffee restaurant on Miracle Mile road know this, including the male lover in that developing romcom.\nEverybody panics, believing what he hears from a stranger's call to a public payphone. The news is confirmed by a government worker with a mobile phone. Coincidentally -- no, not for the screenwriters -- she's reading the Cliffnotes version of Gravity's Rainbow.\nThe fact that there might be a missile hanging in the air, over the entire plot, is about as far as the references to <PERSON>'s dense work goes. We really go into quirky \"After Hours\" mode for awhile, as the male lover, panicked, races around LA to get his new female lover to take her to the airport. Where they are going? Well, nobody really knows, for who can escape nuclear apocalypse?\nThe movie has some great design features, yet it tries to hard at this without thinking through its characters' action. I got tired of asking myself why these characters, believing the end of civilization will happen in just 50 minutes, do what they do.", "829" ], [ "The movie does go in real-time: there's about 70 minutes from the phonecall, and at the 70-minute mark the movie will end.\nSo why does the main character keep leaving her? Why do they keep pausing for dramatic effect? You've got me. This is after all a movie. It is for fun, though I didn't have fun by the end.\nThe movie makes an excuse: as the characters are running through LA at 4:30AM, they pass a sign that says \"Avant-Garde.\" Like the <PERSON> reference, that's about all the avant-garde you will get here. Quirky and strange? Yes. Avant-garde? Not going to happen unless the nukes bring a new color palette to this film.\nI would call this a sped-up \"After Hours,\" which was as much about a lost man's spiritual quest. This one, omitting that though it didn't have to, is more focused on a panicked man's attempt to rescue a maiden from disaster. It could've veered in many wiser and complicated directions, too, and you might feel like I did that the third act is a major letdown.\nThere's much focus on the attempt to get out of LA in an organized way. Maybe that's the point: it's a Hotel California scenario where you can never leave even if that's your heart's desire.", "829" ], [ "<PERSON>\nHaving seen the previous Proletariat trilogy films, I was prepared for something lightly droll. The setup preps us for that. The eponymous girl has a low-life existence, like other '80s <PERSON> characters. She's looking for love. She strikes out repeatedly, matchbook pun intended.\nThings keep going lower for her.\nAnd of course we are in the Finnish version of \"Modern Times.\" The girl might as well be the <PERSON>, who will always find sentimental love in odd places.\nInstead, <PERSON> goes a lot darker. Maintaining his vision that modern Finland is a bleak industrial hellscape, the girl is involved in nothing but transactions. Most of those are condescending. The few words spoken to her -- the few words spoken in the movie -- are insults. Isn't \"Whore!\" one of the first words of the movie? And it's spoken by her father, whom she's supporting, because she bought a pink dress to attract a guy.\nI think this is what <PERSON> would be like he had a more entertaining, sicker sense of humor. The repeated transactions in this movie, highlighted by hands putting Finnish cash on hands or on tables, operate as this society's version of \"friendship.\" In terms of true friends, the girl has none. When she tells her co-worker that she's pregnant, the co-worker just gets up and walks away. Mom and dad hate her.", "80" ], [ "Brother seems indifferent. And then there's the men she would date.\nThat gets me to thinking: if the Tramp were a woman, what would his story have been like?\nMaintained here in this third proletariatian movie is that the Finland within these films has no culture. Well, it has dopey imitative culture: specifically, derivative American music galore. The girl walks around in nothing but soulless places. If only she wandered around that garden more at the beginning of the film ... but anyway, I think the matchbooks are the imitative symbol. The machines produce endless numbers of matches. Great, for what? For the girl, it means cash, that turns into her dad's rent, beers at the bar, and absolutely nothing more.\nAs an fyi, when I talk about horror movies not scaring me in general, when we get to something like \"The Matchbook Factory Girl,\" we have a kind of horror movie in development. In other hands, that's exactly what this material has been: hyped emotionally wrought scenes that expose the inner anguish of the main character, showcasing why she does what she does. <PERSON> finds the opposite style just as effective for the same purpose. In my order of preferences, his style is more effective for this material. Because most of us, I think, quietly suffer like the girl.", "80" ], [ "<PERSON>\nThe miracle of Fassbinder is that he made more movies than he lived years, yet each of his movies tends to look as if it took years to plan out.\nThat's more true to me of \"Veronika Voss\" than just about any of his features I've seen. Who in the world is coming up with these shots, in this order, with this composition of sound, this quickly?\nPretty much everybody says this is a German \"Sunset Boulevard.\" But I think they are missing all of the extra nuance. The movie reflects a half-dozen more aspects of reality.\nFor one, <PERSON>'s fame was attained during Nazi Germany, and in the movie's main storyline, she's hoping for fame in the postwar. That's dominated by American fare, e.g., all the country music played in the background. The film therefore plays up unattainable and possibly ill-gotten fame, associated with German fascism. That's an order of magnitude more serious and more political than the Hollywood starlet problems in \"Sunset Boulevard.\"\nMore importantly, \"Veronika Voss\" could be viewed as taking place within \"World on a Wire,\" <PERSON>'s miniseries depicting people living in a simulation. There's no end to similar shots between the two, including mirrored reality, obnoxious sparkles and glares, shots framed through windows, and oddball wipes. The movie even opens with a cut between <PERSON> watching her own movie in a theater, into the set of the movie itself, with some of the most gaudy glares ever depicted in a movie frame. That provokes anybody watching to say, \"hey, this is all artificial. It's a movie!\"\nIs <PERSON> living in a simulation? Maybe or maybe not. I won't claim she's also living in a computer simulation, yet clearly that's the same flavor as the world of fame and attention -- a fake or alternate reality that's shaped her point of view.\nThis is all augmented by her drug and alcohol problems, combined with that weirdo doctor-lesbian clinic that seems to be brainwashing her.", "295" ], [ "From all of those angles -- drugs, brainwashing, stardom, a forbidden past, and a secluded life of glitz and riches -- <PERSON>'s reality seems simulated.\nShe's not herself; she can never be. Maybe she never was. The failed starlet wants to go back into stardom. To go back is to go back into the Matrix. By the way, I have no idea how much <PERSON> is a stand-in for \"West Germany\" and its Nazi past.\nThis all comes up in the early dinner conversation between <PERSON> and the sportswriter who would save her from dissipation. He says something about not knowing who she was, and that movies are not at all like reality. Then she says the light is too bright -- just like the overexposed lighting in the movie! -- and so the waiter puts out the electric candlelight at the table. What's happening within the movie is what's happening beyond the movie, from the moviegoer's perspective.\nWe're aware of the movie's constructedness, yet the realist sportswriter has no idea. He's in the simulation. About an hour in, he's talking to an agent and mentions old movie stars. The phone rings, and the camera quick-zooms up towards him. That's *exactly* what happens in \"World on a Wire\" when characters get too close to realizing they are in a simulation!\nI am suggesting that the postmodernism of this film may mean it has more in common with \"The Matrix\" than with \"Sunset Boulevard's\" drama-noir.", "829" ], [ "A Nos Amours\nI'm biased against French sex dramas, because even though they are claimed to be \"unflinching\" and realistic, they never say anything about all the STDs being swapped. If the characters in these movies were the norm, the crabs would beat out the cockroaches and ants in a post-apocalyptic world.\nAlso, a great problem I have is the simpleton nature of these movies -- as beautiful as they might said to be in form -- compared to the way classical literature handles these scenarios. You pick from <PERSON>'s Aeneid, medieval courtly-love poetry, \"Sister Carrie,\" Dante's Inferno's Canto 5, <PERSON>'s \"Either/Or,\" and I could go on for another 500,000 words.", "292" ], [ "I'm just not finding the profundity I demand after all that reading.\nI will just read 'Either/Or\" again, and then go on to the Sickness Unto Death. I think my favorite directors have done that: <PERSON>, <PERSON>, <PERSON>, etc. <PERSON>, meanwhile, is stuck writing this movie about 15-year-old girls having serious sexual problems.", "61" ], [ "Heathers\nI thought I was cynical, and you might think you are too, yet \"Heathers\" has us all beat. Even <PERSON> winces at it.\nYet the movie, despite its controversies, is unmistakably a warped vision, a campy dark view of Gen-X high-schoolers circa 1988. That warped vision is in love with, among other things: <PERSON>, \"The Shining,\" \"Clockwork Orange,\" <PERSON>, <PERSON>, and after-school specials.\nAbout that last category, I was subject to them. They showed them in middle-school health class. Look up the titles: they are inherently campy, even though they were dead serious. One of them is \"Have You Ever Been Ashamed of Your Parents?\"\n\"Heathers\" seems aware of that one, since its answer to it is \"certainly\" because nearly every adult figure is an idiot in this movie. That's explicit: <PERSON>'s schtick with her dad is to call him an \"idiot.\" Which he accepts, as idiot dads do in this kind of fare.\nThere are a hundred other weirdo cultural items that \"Heathers\" is aware of, and it goes about mocking them mercilessly, including after-school specials about teen suicide. That got this movie in trouble. The trouble should've been how school systems were treating real kids, as they still do. But no, it was about the tone of a movie that's based on the shared warped vision of a lot of American kids everywhere. Beware of blaming the symptom, the art, instead of the cause, which is the reality it's derived from.\nFor my part, \"Heathers\" has several 2-5 minute segments of brilliance, never connecting them all that well for me, and then copping out around the end. When this movie gets a moral heart, for no good reason even though it probably needs one badly, I feel it swings and misses.\nThat because I identify enough with the <PERSON> character, for awhile, as I imagine a lot of people watching this movie do. He combines the cool loser with the cute outsider, a bystander looking at the whole problem and thinking about it.", "292" ], [ "That he goes about it as a kind of pre-Heath Ledger <PERSON> is disturbing, obviously. Still, he has a point. That's the <PERSON> side of him: the rebel who doesn't know his cause yet has one, if he only had consulted <PERSON>.\nIn the end, to me, \"The Breakfast Club\" is arguably edgier. I mean in the end of both movies in comparison, and not in their proceedings. Imagine this movie in its middle, first time you watch it, and then being told that this movie arguably *affirms* school systems. Not that it necessarily does, just that that's an interpretative option in the end.\nMaybe the point is that Gen-X is not all that brave, just too bitchy and whiny and self-loathing. I think we would all own that criticism of ourselves. We are still dealing with older people, the generation or two older than us, lording it over us -- in business, in politics, in finance. I can refer you to the current Presidential race as example #1 of 100,000 examples. Best we could ever do was be cynically ironic, as this movie often is, only to just go along with what is, the status quo.\nMaybe that's what \"Heathers\" is describing about us?\nP.S. Past generations had their \"murder and suicide\" dark comedies. Just listen to MASH's theme song! If you want disturbing, go check out post-WW2 comedies of the 1940s. This movie is the line of <PERSON>'s \"Monsieur Verdoux\" and \"Kind Hearts and Coronets.\"", "80" ], [ "Poor Things\nPromethean ideas of the cost of scientific ambition have obviously been crowding my brain as of late, so the <PERSON> parallels were immediately exciting. This cautionary tale about the dangers of scientific curiosity would be delivered through a female Creature who, for once, is no one’s bride. Just, perhaps, someone’s daughter, but even that isn’t as clearly cut.\n<PERSON> was labeled a modern <PERSON> because he chose to challenge, by way of scientific ambition, the mandated divine order, just like the titan did when he stole fire from the gods to give it to man. Here, he even goes as far as to have others, including his Creature, affectionally call him “God”, making the matter even more obvious. How, I immediately asked myself, as if all that video essay research made it into an obvious <PERSON>’s gun, is this particular modern <PERSON> going to be punished for his crime of sacrilegious curiosity?\nWhat a pleasure to discover, along with <PERSON> herself, that curiosity, specifically hers, is not to be punished but celebrated. That there is actually as much philosophical and scientific value in the slow but unstoppable uptake of childlike wonder as there is in the more mature ways of exploring existence. That the world as seen by new eyes is terrifying, but also shockingly straightforward.", "660" ], [ "If x, then y. Repeat.\nNeither God created <PERSON>, they merely gave her a body and a brain to work with. Everything going forward was all her doing. To discover oneself is to create oneself.\nAnd as <PERSON> discovered the adult world by touching everything and putting it in her mouth, creating her own world in the process, I thought back to the other reason <PERSON> stole fire from the gods. He wanted to help mankind. Empathy got him punished for eternity. May that not be the case of <PERSON>.", "660" ], [ "Big Trouble in Little China\nIn which <PERSON> tests whether <PERSON> could've succeeded in action-fantasy camp. It's a fascinating thought-experiment to me to ask if <PERSON> and <PERSON> switched eras, could one have succeeded in the career of the other? For <PERSON>, perhaps. He sure does have a great 'stache in the Westerns.\nI agree with <PERSON> that lack of characterization harms this film. It is essentially <PERSON>'s truck-driving character running around with several Asian men, trying to find a captured woman.", "698" ], [ "Much has been said about that last fact. I simply do not get into movies that are about other movies, and that's their leading aspect. If you have to know the tropes and then know that the movie is mocking the tropes, and that's the fun of the movie, well, fine. But I do like a bit of a connection to the real-world. And what I see here is so goofball or stereotypical, it just doesn't interest me.\nBut I do like <PERSON>'s score here!", "170" ] ]

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[ [ "Pumpkin Chandelier\nIntroduction: Pumpkin Chandelier\nThese instructions are going to be for the ultimate pumpkin chandelier. Of course this wont be super functional because pumpkins do eventually rot, but while it lasts it will be really cool. It will be a layered, hanging pumpkin ring chandelier.\nSupplies\n-A medium sized pumpkin\n-Rope\n-A large knife\n-A small knife\n-A tea light\n-A lighter\nStep 1: Cut the Stem Off of the Pumpkin\nFirst you will need to cut the stem off of the top of the pumpkin. You will need to do this because in order to do step two, you have to be able to get into the pumpkin.\nStep 2: Remove the Insides of the Pumpkin\nYou will need to remove the insides of the pumpkin (the guts). You wont need to keep that for any part of the chandelier but you could dry them out to make a nice snack! It does smell bad and its super cold but this step is necessary.\nStep 3: Cut Rings of Pumpkin\nNext you are going to take your large knife and start to cut a ring from the top of the pumpkin. Once you get that first ring off, you will repeat this step all the way to the bottom of the pumpkin.\nStep 4: Thin the Rings\nFor this step you will need to take a few of the inside layers from the rings of pumpkin to make them lighter.\nStep 5: Cut Holes in the Rings\nAfter you cut the rings of pumpkin, you are going to use a knife to make 2 small holes on each side of the ring.", "984" ], [ "You could also use a drill or something else sharp. These holes are going to be used for the rope to go through.\nStep 6: Cut the Rope\nAfter you make the holes around the pumpkin, you will need to cut your rope to your desired length. You will want to cut it however far apart you want each ring from each other plus an extra inch so that you have room to tie it.\nStep 7: Thread the Rope\nYou will need to thread a piece of rope through one hole on a pumpkin ring and connecting the other side of the rope to another ring, starting with the bottom piece of the pumpkin. Do this step connecting all of the rings.\nStep 8: Carve Designs (optional)\nSo for this next step you can carve whatever you want in the pumpkin rings. I did a face but you could do any design you want.\nStep 9: Burn the Ends of the Rope\nTake a lighter to burn the stray ends of the rope to secure the knots and make them stronger. You could also use hot glue instead. Be careful!\nStep 10: Light It Up\nLast step is to add a tea light or small candle to brighten up your beautiful chandelier.\nStep 11: Enjoy Your Creation While It Lasts", "984" ], [ "Window Propagation Station\nIntroduction: Window Propagation Station\nmaterials\n- strong wire\n-small jars\n- super glue\n- tape(optional)\n- wire cutters\n- measuring tape\nStep 1: Step One: Finding Your Jars\nFor this project you will need very small jars. I found mine at my local thrift store. They also need to have some sort of lip on them so they can be held up by the wire. I am using four jars, but you can use more or less than that.\nStep 2: Step Two: Take Your Measurements\nthe measurements you need are\n- how deep your window sill is\n- how wide you want your propagation station\n- how long you want your propagation station\nStep 3: Step Three:starting Your Wire\nfirst you will need to cut your wire, I cut off three feet for mine and had just the right amount of wiggle room\nto find your wire length,take your measurements, double the depth and length, and multiply your width by 4. This will give you a little bit of extra room to work with.\nStep 4: Step Four: Bending the Wire\nstart with measuring out half of the width of your propagation station. make a 90 degree bend in the wire. next measure out the depth of your propagation station, making another 90 degree bend. This bend should go down. Now measure out how long you want your station to be and make a 90 degree bend. this bend should bring the wire to the same direction as the beginning of the wire.\nStep 5: Step Five: Wrap the Jars\nnow you can wrap the wire around the neck of your jars.", "372" ], [ "You can space then out or have them close together. I only wrapped the wire around once, and left an inch of space before adding another jar.\nStep 6: Step Six: Bending the Wire\nonce you have added all of the jars make a 90 degree bend in the wire going up. using the same measurements from before, make another 90 degree bend at how long you want the station to be, making sure that both sides are even. this bend should point backwards. Again making sure that both sides are even, make a final 90 degree turn so that both of the wire ends are parallel.\nStep 7: Step Seven: Glue the Ends Together\nyou can either tape the ends together or hold then while the glue dries, but make sure that everything is even before glueing the ends together. To glue them together, overlap the ends about one inch and cut off any excess wire. tape them together very tight so they will not move while drying. Add a generous amount of superglue, making sure to coat the areas that are touching very well. allow the glue to dry before removing the tape.\nStep 8: Step 8: Last Touches\nafter removing the tape, set your propagation station on the windowsill, and flatten out the wire in any spots that are not laying flat. Once you are able to have the station lay flat against the window sill, you are able to add water and small plants.", "372" ], [ "Halloween Trick or Treat String Art Sign\nIntroduction: Halloween Trick or Treat String Art Sign\nHello. Here is a fun project to get you into the Halloween mood. Get ready to channel your inner spider as you weave a web of thread to create this sign. This project is not to complex. Besides the time it takes for the paint to dry, this project only takes a few hours to complete.\nSupplies\nSupplies Needed:\n- 2 feet diameter round wood 1 inch thick\n- black, white, and orange paint\n- stencil\n- 1.5 inch nails\n- hammer\n- orange and white crochet thread size ten\n- painters tape and small brushes\n- wall mount hook and screws\nStep 1: Paint\nPaint the round wood black. Be sure to do this in a well ventilated area. Follow instructions for drying times.\nStep 2: Create Stencil Pattern\nI measured the size of the round wood and created my pattern on the computer and printed it out. If you have drawing skills you can draw your pattern on paper.\nStep 3: Hammer Time\nSet stencil on the painted wood and start to hammer a nail every half an inch to an inch along the outline. For curves you will have to place them closer together.\nStep 4: Wrap Orange Thread\nI tied one end to a nail and started looping the thread between every nail. The more the better. I use the white thread to go around the eyes and the boarder of the pumpkin. I tried to keep the thread tight so it doesn't slide down the nail.", "286" ], [ "When you are finished tie the end of the thread to a nail.\nStep 5: Remove the Paper Stencil\nThere is no easy way to do this. Slowly rip away the paper underneath. Try not to bump the thread if you can.\nStep 6: Spray Paint the Trick or Treat Stencil\nI used a trick or treat stencil that I had made online. Take the stencil and tape it to the wood be sure to cover the other parts of wood so they do not get painted. I spray painted the \"Trick\" and \"Treat\" words white. Then I painted the \"or\" orange. It might take a few coats. Be sure to do in a ventilated area. After you remove the stencil you might have to do some touch up with the letters.\nStep 7: Add Hanging Hooks\nAfter paint dries attach hanging hooks to back of wood. Attach hanging string to hooks and you are done. Hope you enjoyed the tutorial. Be sure to subscribe.", "984" ], [ "Mini Pumpkin Root-beer Float\nIntroduction: Mini Pumpkin Root-beer Float\nWe are approaching the time of year where people dress up and decorate their homes with all types of spooky and festive decorations. It's the holiday season for trick or treaters who walk around collecting candy or hide in bushes waiting to scare those who pass. There is one thing that nearly all homes in America have for a decoration: a round, orange, fruit that varies in size and exact shape. These fruit are decorated and carved, which can seem to be repetitive as they all start to look the same. The fruit I am referring to is the ever so famous pumpkin and I have come up with a fun and creative way to decorate one. I am going to make a small root-beer float mug out of a mini-pumpkin, and of course it will be an A&W float.\nSupplies\n* 1 mini Pumpkin\n* 1 can of Brown Paint\n* 1 can of cream colored paint (optional)\n* A&W Sticker (printed A&W logo)\n* Clear tubing\n* Hot glue gun with sticks of glue\n* Paint Brushes\n* Cotton Balls\n* Newspaper for painting (optional)\n* Exacto Knife\n* Straight Pins (not shown in picture)\n* Cutting Board/ <PERSON> (optional)\n* Paper Plate (for paint, optional)\nStep 1: Painting the Pumpkin\nBefore you start, put down your newspaper to avoid making a mess. Take your brown and cream paint and pour some of the paint onto a paper plate. Next take your paint brush and tap it into the brown paint, until almost fully covered. Once you have the brush covered in paint, begin to paint your pumpkin by gently swiping up and down with the brush on the pumpkin. If you want, leave a little extra space towards the top of the pumpkin to paint with the cream colored paint. Paint the entire pumpkin a dark brown shade and use as many coats until you are satisfied with the color or you may choose to paint the pumpkin 3/4 from bottom to top and using cream colored paint for top 1/4. Once you have painted, let the pumpkin sit until all the paint is dry, mine only took a couple minutes but yours could take longer, depending how many coats of paint you use.\nStep 2: Adding the Logo\nFirst print out the A&W root-beer logo. Once it is printed you can use the Exacto knife to cut out the logo, or you could just use a pair of scissors. It does not need to be perfect, as you can tell from mine. Once you have cut out the logo, use the hot glue gun to put dots of glue around the edges and in the middle of your logo. It works best if those dots are also made on the area of the pumpkin in which you will be placing the logo.", "644" ], [ "You should do this rather quickly as the glue dries fast. Next, press the logo onto the pumpkin in the desired spot. If needed, go back and put more glue on the pumpkin while pressing the logo on. See pictures above for more detail as an example.\nStep 3: Making the Handle\nTo make the pumpkin more detailed and look even better, you can choose to add a \"handle\" to the float. Take your clear tubing and cut it to the desired size of the float \"handle\". To add the handle, take the piece of clear tubing and one straight pin and stab a hole through one end of the tubing, angling it towards the pumpkin. Next, stab the straight pin into the pumpkin and press firmly until the pin is pushed completely through the pumpkin and is holding the tube to the pumpkin securely. Repeat this process for the bottom side of the tubing, making it the bottom of the handle. You can see the process in the pictures above.\nStep 4: Adding the Cotton Balls\nPlug in the hot glue gun and allow it it to heat up. Once it is heated and ready, use it to connect the cotton balls to the pumpkin. Start by adding a drop of glue to one cotton ball and place and press it onto the pumpkin for a couple seconds. Continue this process of gluing the cotton balls and pressing them to the pumpkin until it looks like foam on the top of the float. There is no specific way to place the cotton balls or how many to use. Have some fun and make the foam to what feels right to you. This makes your root-beer float unique and special to you. Once you are done with the decorations, display your beautiful pumpkin on your porch for viewers to see.", "984" ], [ "Snow Mason Jar (snow Globe in a Mason Jar)\nIntroduction: Snow Mason Jar (snow Globe in a Mason Jar)\nI like snow globes. I started collecting them about a year ago. I wanted one with what I want in it, so I found a mason jar and got to work. For this jar I used army men but I am going to use a Lego guy in my next one. you can really use any thing that is okay to get wet. Now lets make a snow mason jar!\nSupplies\n* Distilled water, About 80 cents at Walmart\n* glycerin, about $4 at Walmart\n* glitter or fake snow, any craft store\n* mason jar, any craft store and most grocery stores\n* decorations, I used army men but you use whatever you want. Though you might want whatever you use to be water proof. :)\n* super glue (not in pic), any craft store\nNote- I know that glycerin sounds hard to find and it can be, but I found it at Walmart in the men's health department, it was in Isle G 10 (Isle probably differs from store to store). I hope this helped you find glycerin and spared you a 45-60 minute search like mine. Good luck!\nStep 1: The Lid (bottom)\nLets start with the decorations.\nFirst you organize your decorations on the bottom of the jar lid. I would recommend taking the flat out of the ring of the lid, this will make it easier to organize small decorations where you want them on the lid. Once you have them organized how you want them, I would suggest you place the jar over the lid to make sure they will fit without getting pushed around by the sides of the jar.", "440" ], [ "Then you will use super glue to glue them down. Unless, you want your decor to float around the jar, then you would skip this step and just plop them in with the glitter.\nAfter you have glued your decorations into position you glue the flat part of the lid to the ring. To do this you put super glue all around the bottom, inside of the ring. Now you put your lid flat, with your glued-on decor, into the ring and press all around the outer ring of the inside (I hope that makes sense) to make sure the glue has grabbed both sections of the lid.\nNow you are ready for the jar itself.\nStep 2: The Jar\nNow for the jar.\nFirst pour some glitter into the jar. I used enough to completely cover the bottom of the jar, but it was a bit too much for my preferences. So just use how much seems right to you.\nAfter the glitter then add the Distilled water. I started by filling the jar up until it was about 3/4 full. You can use regular water from a sink faucet but the distilled water prevents condensation and fogging on the jar, So I recommend spending about $1 at you local grocery store (I got 1 gallon for 80 cents at Walmart).\nFor the glycerin you need to add about 1 1/2 US tablespoons. The glycerin makes the glitter fall slower through the water.\nStep 3: Finish\nAnd now, to finish...\nNow you flip the lid over and screw it on as tight as you can and then a bit more. Now you can go to a sink and shake it, shake it, and shake it. Flip it over and watch as the glitter floats down to the bottom. If there is a air pocket on top then you can unscrew it and add more water. Continue to add water, close and test and add more water until the bubble is small enough for you.\nNow you have your own homemade, original mason jar copy-cat snow globe!\nThis Instructable is entered in the Mason Jar Speed Challenge 2020, please vote.\nThank you", "556" ], [ "DIY Mosaic Stepping Stones\nIntroduction: DIY Mosaic Stepping Stones\nIn this Instructable, I'll walk you through how to create mosaic stepping stones. This is pretty easy and very fun to do. I hope you enjoy this craft!\nSupplies\nYou will need:\n* Cement mix (I used one specifically for stepping stones)\n* Plastic mold\n* Mosaic glass\n* Bucket (for mixing\nStep 1: Draw Your Design\nThis is an optional step, but I think it would be easier if you drew your design beforehand so that you could have a plan going into laying out the glass on the cement. I traced the bottom of the mold so that I had an accurate representation of the size of the tile.\nStep 2: Lay Out the Glass\nI also laid out the glass pieces onto the design I created in the previous step. This will just make laying the glass on the cement easier and quicker so that you don't have to spend time trying different pieces of glass later on.\nStep 3: Mix Your Cement\nNext, you will want to mix your powder cement with water, according to the instructions of the cement you purchased. I recommend doing this in a separate bucket with a mixing stick.\nStep 4: Pour the Cement Into the Mold\nOnce your cement is fully mixed, pour it into the mold.", "353" ], [ "I recommend pouring it until the cement is about 1/4\" from the top of the mold. Once all the cement is in, shake the mold from side to side and tap the bottom of it to help level the cement.\nStep 5: Add the Glass to the Cement\nTransfer the design from the paper template onto the cement in the mold. Make sure you press the glass into the cement so that it'll stay securely in. Once you are happy with the results, you can leave it out to dry for however long the manufacturer instructions say. Once you have done so, you can pop it out of the mold.\nDon't worry if you think the cement is too dark at this stage. It will lighten up as it dries, so the color in the glass will be more visible.\nStep 6: You're Done!\nNow, you are done with this project! I hope you enjoyed and like the final product!", "556" ], [ "DIY Halloween Cornstalks\nIntroduction: DIY Halloween Cornstalks\nCreate homemade cornstalks for interior or protected exterior projects from simple items.\nSupplies\nYou’ll need: PVC Pipes, Brown Packing Paper roll, masking tape, tan spray paint, and scissors.\nStep 1: Start Creating the Leaves.\nGet a roll of brown packing paper at your local home improvement store. (Usually about $3 a roll) I tore off quite a few sheets about the same size...maybe about 1-1.5 feet long, just depends how big you want the leaves to be. After you tear off the sheets, stack them and fold them in half, longwise. I then cut out a leaf shape through all the sheets. By folding it in half, you can get double the amount cut in less time.\nStep 2: Spray the Pipes.\nCut your PVC poles to the height that you prefer. I made a bunch of random height stalks because I was going to use them for a couple different types of displays.", "6" ], [ "Then spray the base pole with the spray paint so the white doesn’t show.\nStep 3: Crinkle the Leaves and Attach.\nSo after the leaves are cut out, you’re going to grab a stack, maybe 6-10 sheets, and literally crinkle them up with a twist in your hands. You want them to wrinkle. After you crinkle them all, pull them apart so you have a box or stack of crinkled sheets, read to attach.\nNext, grab one of the sprayed base poles from previous step and wrap one leaf around the top of the pole and secure it with masking tape. Use the wider end for the pole and the pointy end hanging off the pole, then shape by hand so it points out and away from the pole.\nNext wrap the next leaf around the base of the previous leaf, covering the tape so it’s hidden. Then continue this pattern all the way down the pole, adding as many leaves as you desire.\nAt the base, I used some extra paper and crinkled it just to wrap around the very bottom of the stalk and taped it in place.\nStep 4: That’s It!\nYou’re basically done at this point. I’ve attached some images of the projects I used this for.", "984" ], [ "How to Make a Paper Crown\nIntroduction: How to Make a Paper Crown\nHi there, this is my first time writing an instructables, so I hope you like it!\nThis is an easy project that you can do whenever! It's simple and quick to make, and it's completely made out of paper. This crown is great for all ages and anyone can make it! I had a lot of fun and creativity while making this, and I hope you do to!\nSupplies\n* Paper\n* Scissors\n* Glue\n* Decorative tape\n* Stickers\n* Decorative paper\nStep 1: Cut\nI started with two 9 x 12 in. papers, then I cut them into 4 x 4 in. squares. I cut 6 black squares and 6 white squares, making 12 total squares.\nStep 2: Fold\nTake one square and fold it in half so that two opposite corners meet each other. Form a crease and then unfold it so it is a square again.\nStep 3:\nTake the square and place it so that the crease is vertical, then take the corners on the left and right side, and fold them to the crease.\nStep 4:\nFold the bottom corner up a tiny bit.\nStep 5:\nFold the bottom side up again, it should maintain a triangle shape\nStep 6:\nFold the bottom side up again, this time it should make a boat-like shape\nStep 7: Repeat\nrepeat steps 2-6 again until you have used all of your squares\nStep 8: Connect the Pieces\nif you've done the previous step correctly, then you should be able to slide the pieces together until they fit together.\nStep 9:\nrepeat step 8 again for the rest of the pieces. Some advice if some pieces aren't fitting correctly, try cutting off a little tiny bit from the corners or the bottom.", "966" ], [ "Also if it's falling apart, try using some glue or tape.\nStep 10: Connect the Crown\nFor the last pieces, just connect the left end to the right end, the crown might not be perfectly round but that's fine. Check the crown to see if it is a suitable size, if it's too big just remove some pieces, and if it's too small try adding some more pieces. I ended up using 10 pieces since it was a little bit big. If needed, apply some glue or tape for extra support. You can leave your crown here or decorate it in the next step.\nStep 11: Decorate\nBring your creativity out in this step! You can use pens, markers, stickers, decorative tape, yarn, or anything else to decorate your crown. I used a pretty white moon washi tape on all of the black pieces, then in a few places I used vintage rub-on transfers from the dollar store. I used multiple stickers, scrap-paper, and other washi tapes to decorate the rest of it. I hope you had fun making and decorating your crown, I'm proud of your final creation, I bet it looks amazing!", "6" ] ]

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[ [ "Child's Rocking Chair\nIntroduction: Child's Rocking Chair\nChild Size Rocking Chair\nSupplies\nThis Child's Rocking Chair is made from a single board of 5/4\"x6\"x10' (actual size 1\"x 5½\"x10') pressure treated decking lumber.\n(20) 1¾\" Wood Screws\n(36) ¾\" x ⅜\" Crown Staples\n-Wood Glue\n-#40 Sanding Wheel\n-#120 Grit Sandpaper\n-Wood Filler\n-Paint or Stain and Brush\nStep 1: Safety First\nPlease be sure to use proper personal protective equipment, eye and hearing protection, and mask for respiratory protection from breathing saw dust.\nStep 2: Plan Review\nCarefully review plans.\nStep 3: Cut Material to Length\nCut the 10' board into correct length pieces with circular saw or miter saw, carefully following the cut plan. If you don't follow the cut plan, you will not be able to get all the pieces from one 10' board.\nStep 4: Rip Pieces to Correct Width\nUse a table saw to rip all pieces to 2¾\" width, then set aside the armrests, rockers, and seat rails. Rip all remaining pieces again to a 1⅜ \" width. Seat slats and back slats require ripping to 1⅜ \" width and ½\" thickness.\nStep 5: Shaping Seat Rails and Armrests\nUse an old paint can as a guide, to mark cut line on armrests round ends for cutting. Cut with bandsaw or jigsaw the curved shapes of seat rails and armrests as shown in the plan. Use a grinder, with 40 grit sanding wheel, to refine final shapes of the armrests and seat rails.\nStep 6: Marking and Cutting Rocker Curves\nUse three screws to bend a thin board or other flexible material into curve for rocker, mark cut line, then use bandsaw or jigsaw to cut bottom rocker shape. An alternate method is to use a piece of construction paper to make template for marking cut line.\nStep 7: Cutting Dado Slot in Top and Bottom Seat Back Rails\nSeat back, top and bottom rails, require a dado slot ½\" wide and ½\" depth to accept back slats. Use table saw to cut dados. If you don't have dado blade, make multiple cuts to create slot. Use one of the back slats as a gauge to set fence width on table saw.\nStep 8: Cut Seat Back Side Rails to 15 Degree Angle\nUse miter saw or circular saw to cut 15 degree angle on one end of each of seat back side rails.", "785" ], [ "The angle cut is across the 1⅜\" width. Refer to cutting plan and photos to assist with this step.\nStep 9: Rounding Edges\nUse a router with ½\" round-over bit to round edges on all pieces, except the top edges of the seat rails.\nStep 10: Sanding Pieces\nSand all pieces to prevent splitters using 120 grit paper.\nStep 11: Begin Assembly\nOrganize all the pieces\nStep 12: Assemble Legs and Seat Rails & Bottom Rockers\nDrill ⅛\" pilot and ⅜\" counter sink holes in legs. Square the rocker and seat rails to legs, then use 1¾” wood screws to attach legs to seat rails and rocker bottom rails. Complete assemble for both sides.\nStep 13: Attach Seat Slats to Each Side Assembles\nAttach seat slats to sides assemblies, using #16 nail as a spacer to evenly space slats. Glue and fasten slats at each each with ¾\" staple.\nStep 14: Assemble Seat Back Rest\nInsert back slats into dados on the top and bottom seat back rail. Use ⅛\" even spacing between slats. Glue and fasten with ¾\" staples.\nStep 15: Attach Back Side Rails to Back Top and Bottom Rails\nDrill ⅛\" pilot and ⅜\" counter sink holes in back side rails. Use 1¾” wood screws to attach the back side rails to top and bottom back rails. The side rails should extend 1\" above the top seat back rail.\nStep 16: Attach Back Assembly to Seat Assembly\nDrill ⅛\" pilot and ⅜\" counter sink holes in the back legs. Use 1¾” wood screws on each side of back legs to attach the back assembly to seat assembly at 105 degree angle between the back and seat rails.\nStep 17: Attach Armrests\nDrill ⅛\" pilot holes and ⅜\" counter sink holes in armrests. Place armrest on top of legs and secure to legs with1¾” wood screws and glue.", "785" ], [ "Compact Corner Desk\nIntroduction: Compact Corner Desk\nWith COVID-19 continuing to make our lives challenging, many of us are trying to find more workspace for work and school within our own homes. I designed this desk for my daughter's bedroom. The room has very limited space, so I designed the desk to maximize the usable space while keeping the footprint relatively small. The desk is extremely simple to build. The project is constructed entirely with pocket hole/screws. There is no complicated or time-consuming joinery. The project requires only a half a sheet of 3/4 G1S plywood, three 2x2's, some screws and a bit of hardwood for edging, or pre-glued edge banding. This project can easily be built with minimal tools in a weekend.\nSupplies\nMATERIALS\n48\"x48\"x3/4\" G1S plywood Qty: 1\n2\"x2\"x96\" (actual size 1-1/2\"x1-1/2\") Qty: 3\n1-1/4\" Coarse Thread Washer Head Screws Qty: +/- 100\n1\"x4\"x48\" Hardwood Board, or Pre-glued Hardwood Edge-Banding.\nTOOLS\nCircular Saw\nHand saw or Bandsaw\nPocket Hole Joinery Jig\nCombination Square\nClamps\nWood Glue\nPencil\nSandpaper\nPower Driver\nStep 1: Cut the Parts\nBreak down the 3/4\" plywood sheet into the parts:\n4 Shelves 11-1/2\" x 11-5/8\" with 1-3/8\" x 1-3/8\" corner cutouts on the front edge, and 1-3/8\" x 1-1/2\" on the back edge for the legs.\n6 Short Upper Support Stretchers 8-3/4\" x 2-1/2\"\n2 Long Upper Support Stretchers 23-1/4\" x 2-1/2\"\n2 Long Lower Stretchers 23-1/4\" x 2-1/2\"\n1 Desktop 36-3/4\" x 36-3/4\"\n1 Desktop trim 36\" x 2-7/8\" (optional)\n1 Desktop trim 36-3/4\" x 2-7/8\" (optional)\nStep 2: Drill the Pocket Holes\nUsing a pocket hole jig, drill the pocket holes as indicated on the cut sheet in the previous step. I used the Kreg K-5 jig. Be sure to drill the holes in the least attractive side, leaving the best side showing.\nStep 3: Assemble the Two Shelf Towers\nAssemble and screw 4 legs, 2 shelves and three short upper support stretchers into a tower assembly for the left side, then repeat again for the right side.", "415" ], [ "Be sure to assemble the parts with the orientation of the faces with pocket holes facing the direction they are least likely to be seen.\nI cut four 3\" and four 12\" spacers out of scrap. I placed the tower upright on the workbench and placed the spacers inside the legs and set the lower shelf on them and screwed the shelf in place. Next I clamped the 12\" spacers to the legs on top of the lower shelf and placed the upper shelf on them and screwed the shelf in place.\nStep 4: Taper the Inside Corner\nThis step is optional, but it is necessary if you want he desk to sit tight into a corner without baseboards corner. If the wall are drywalled, they almost guaranteed not to be square. The process of drywalling builds up drywall compound to hide the corner seam and it is blended out into the sheetrock. To allow for this I cut 1/8\" off the corner in both directions and taper it out to about 18\" from the corner.\nStep 5: Add the Hardwood Edging.\nRip you piece of hardwood into 1/8\" x 3/4\" strips. Cut them to length and glue and tape or clamp them in place at let sit until the glue dries. Alternatively you can use pre-glued hardwood edge banding and an iron.\nStep 6: Attach the Remaining Leg, Support Stretchers, and Desktop\nOn a flat surface, place the desktop upside down and attach the long support stretchers to the corner leg and the shelf towers. Be sure to pay attention to the orientation of the faces with the pocket holes showing. Once the substructure is completely assembled, align it to the desktop and secure it in place with screws.\nStep 7: Attach the Desktop Trim (Optional)\nI you wish to add a trim feature to add the final to piece to the top aligned with the back edges and screw them in place.", "959" ], [ "Slatted Console Table\nIntroduction: Slatted Console Table\nThis slatted console table take inspiration from our 100+ year old house and from the \"Vedima Console\" by Lulu and Georgia.\nSupplies\nMaterials\n* White Oak\n* 2\" screws\n* Finish - I used water based polyurethane\nTools\n* Table Saw\n* Jig Saw\n* Biscuit Joiner\n* Router w/ 1/4\" round over\n* Drill - with a few different sized bits\n* Drill Press w/ Plug hole bit\n* Orbital Sander\nStep 1: The Slats\n* Cut the slats to the desired width. Mine are 1\" wide\n* Use a router table to make a round over edge to the slats.", "599" ], [ "I used 1/4\"\n* Sand smooth\nStep 2: The Shelves - Assembly\n* The white oak that I purchased was already planed and had straight edges.\n* I lined up the boards to find the best matches for each.\n* I used a biscuit joiner to keep the shelves plane.\n* I made (3) 14\" x 64\" shelves and sanded them to remove marks and glue.\nStep 3: The Shelves - Round Ends\n* Mark out a 7\" radius circle at the ends of the boards\n* Cut just outside of the line with the jog saw\n* I made a circle cutting template with spare plywood to attach to the router. Using a trim bit, I smoothed out the edges to meet the line.\nStep 4: The Shelves - Cut Notches\n* I made a template out of 1/4\" plywood with the size and spacing of my slats.\n* Transfer the pattern onto the boards\n* Drill corners to fit the round over edges of your slats\n* Cut the straight edges with the jig saw\n* I used an offcut of the slats to ensure a good fit.\nStep 5: Console - Assembly\n* I made a spacer jig out of mdf and 2x4s to establish the heights of my shelves.\n* Center the shelves and begin laying the slats into the notches\n* I left the slats long on one end. They will be cut and sanded flush at the end.\nStep 6: Console - Attachments\n* Drill pilot holes for screw attachments\n* Drill an oversized hole to recess the screw about 1/2 way through the slat\n* Install screw\n* Cut plugs the same size as the oversized hole\n* Insert plugs into the screw holes and sand flush\nStep 7: Console - Base\n* Leave 4 slats that are directly across from one another for the legs\n* Stop the round over where it leaves enough room for the space beneath the bottom shelf to attach flush to another piece.\n* Install these longer pieces in the designated notches\n* Install a piece of wood to connect the front and back legs\n* Install another piece of wood horizontally to connect the left and right bases\nStep 8: Finish Console\n* Sand smooth to a fine grit\n* Apply finish\n* Style and enjoy!", "599" ], [ "Scrap Wood End Grain Cutting Board\nIntroduction: Scrap Wood End Grain Cutting Board\nIn this woodworking video I'm using scrap wood to make a scrap wood end grain cutting board. This how-to woodworking video will show you step by step how to make a DIY cutting board. I'm using walnut scrap wood along with a piece of hard maple wood. End grain cutting boards are the best because and the most expensive because of the extra steps required as well as their durability over their life. I used my DeWalt Table saw and my DeWalt planer for most of this project and then I finished up the board with a juice groove, which I make a juice groove jig for, and mineral oil.\nSupplies\n-Whatever scrap hardwood you have laying around!\n-Titebond 3 wood glue (https://amzn.to/3CiMcI5)\n-Mineral Oil (https://amzn.to/3joeNnU)\n-Cove box router bits (https://amzn.to/3m4NjFC)\nStep 1: Plane to Consistent Thickness\nPlane all boards down to 3/4\" thick.\nStep 2: Rip Into 1 5/8\" Strips\nThen rip all boards into 1 5/8\" wide strips.\nStep 3: First Glue Up\nNow glue up in the desired pattern as shown. Be sure to use glue that is waterproof and rated for use with food. I used Titebond 3.\nStep 4: Plane to 1 1/2\" Thick\nAllow the glue to to dry to 24 hrs and then plane down to 1 1/2\" thick.\nStep 5: Cut Into 1 5/8\" Strips\nNow, using a cross cut sled, cut into 1 5/8\" wide strips.\nStep 6: Second Glue Up\nNow, flip every other piece to randomize the pattern and glue up as shown. Be sure to use lots of clamps for even pressure.\nStep 7: Plane to Final Thickness\nNow, plane to the final thickness of 1 1/2\" thick. When planning an end grain board be sure to remove very small amounts of wood on each pass so you do not separate the grain or cause tear out.\nWARNING: It's very dangerous to do this in a planer. It's possible for pieces to break off and shoot out of the machine at high speed. If you follow my instructions, attach longer sacrificial pieces of wood to the long edges with masking tape and CA glue.", "76" ], [ "This will help protect the ends as well as prevent snipe.\nStep 8: Clean Up Edges\nNow clean up all 4 sides of the board. Start by using masking tape and CA glue to create a straight edge on one of the long edges as shown. Then clean up the other long side on the table saw. Finally, clean up the short edges on the table saw using a cross cut sled.\nStep 9: Add Chamfer\nIf you would like to, add a chamfered or roundover edge using a router.\nStep 10: Cut Juice Groove\nCreate a juice groove jig using the link below. Then, carefully, cut the groove in multiple passes. The direction of the router rotation should push the router into the guide jig.\nStep 11: Final Sanding\nNow sand going through all the grits but stop at 120. Then wet the board and let it dry. This will cause the grain to \"pop\" allowing for you to sand it smooth with 120 and 240 grit. This will also keep the board smooth over time.\nStep 12: Add Rubber Feet\nIf you would like to add rubber feet, pre drill small holes in all 4 corners about 1\" from the edges. Now screw on the feet.\nStep 13: Oil\nFinally, fill a plastic bin with food grade mineral oil and let the board soak for 30 min. Remove the board, wipe off excess oil and allow time to dry before use.", "76" ], [ "How to Make a Wooden Box Joint Box\nIntroduction: How to Make a Wooden Box Joint Box\nwww.howidothingsdiy.com\nIn this video I'm going to show you how to make a wooden box with box joints. However, there is a twist. Most boxes use hinges or a sliding lid, this box opens in a unique way you won't usually see. But you’re going to need to watch the video to see what that is!\nI’ll show you how to cut the frame, cut box joints, use wood glue to glue the frame together, build the top and bottom assembly and finally, apply finish.\nMost of the work was done on my DeWalt table saw with the help of my box joint jig and my cross cut sled. Links below.\nSubscribe for more videos like this!\nTools\nTable saw w/ box joint jig and cross cut sled (videos to build them on my channel)\nDrill and drill bits\nRouter\nOrbital Sander\n<PERSON> nailer\nDado blade set\nSupplies\n1x6 pine board\nWood Glue\nWood filler\n<PERSON> nails\nStep 1: Cut Frame to Size\nDecide how big you want to make your box and cut the1x6 pieces to size.\nStep 2: Cut Box Joints\nInstall your dado set and get out your box joint jig. Now cut all your box joints in all four frame pieces.\nStep 3: Dry Fit Frame\nAssemble the frame with no glue just to make sure all the joints are cut properly.\nStep 4: Make Corner Supports\nNow reinstall your standard table saw blade and cut 4 corner pieces to keep the box square but also to stop the lid mechanism when fully opened and closed.\nStep 5: Assemble Frame\nApply glue to the box joint ends making sure to get glue on all edges of the joints. Now assemble the box together. Make sure everything is fully seated and square. Now clamp in the corner pieces. Use a scrap piece of the lid material to space the supports from the top.", "493" ], [ "The supports should hold the lid flush with the top of the frame.\nStep 6: Build Top/bottom Assembly\nCut top and bottom pieces that fit nicely but but still slide freely. Now cut two pieces for either side of the box that connect the top on bottom. They will need to be narrow enough to fit in between the corner pieces install earlier. Test fit all pieces.\nNow drill a finger hole in the top piece. I used a 1\" forstner bit. Now glue and brad nail the components so when they are assembled, the top/bottom assembly can slide up and down to open the box. The top and bottom should be flush with the frame and the assembly should stop in the opened and closed position on the corner pieces.\nSink all brad nails just below the surface.\nStep 7: Apply Finishing\nFill all small holes with wood filler. Then sand with 80, 120 and 220 grit sand paper until its all perfectly smooth. Finally, wax the entire box and the mechanism with paste wax. Test for smooth operation.\nIf you like this concept but want a different size box, you can scale it up and down.\nEnjoy your cool little box for storing small things.", "56" ], [ "Easy Box Joint Jig | Quick Box Joints in Your Table Saw\nIntroduction: Easy Box Joint Jig | Quick Box Joints in Your Table Saw\nwww.howidothingsdiy.com\nIn this video, I'll show you how to make an easy box joint jig. You will be able to make quick box joints in your table saw. I'll show you how to DIY and the make box joints. I'll cover making the slides for the miter slots, making the base, using CA glue and screw to attach the base, making the frame, attaching the fence, creating an indexing pin and waxing the slides and base.\nPlease SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel for more great how-to videos!\nDownloadable plan available for purchase here:\nhttps://howidothingsdiy.com/plans/ols/products/box...\nSupplies\n-Dado Set https://amzn.to/3oTbRmM\n-Hardwood or poly table saw slides\n-1/2\" plywood\n-1x4 pine lumber\n-1x2 pine lumber\n-Short wood screws\n-Paste wax https://amzn.to/3oSMvFE\nStep 1: Step 1: Cut Slides to Size\nMake the slide out of a hard wear resistant wood. Cut to fit without slop and be just proud of the saw table.\nStep 2: Step 2: Cut Base to Size\nI used 1/2\" birch plywood cut to 12\"x16\". You could also use 3/4\" or make a difference size for your needs.\nStep 3: Step 3: Attach Slides to Base\nUse CA glue and accelerator to glue the slide on. Then remove from the saw and predrill and countersink holes and screw into place.\nStep 4: Step 4: Attach Frame\nI used a 1x2 for the three frame sides. I glued and brad nailed them into place. Cut the fence a little long but do not permanently attach it yet.\nStep 5: Step 5: Install Dado Set\nRemove the blade and install a dado set.\nStep 6: Step 6: Temporarily Install the Fence\nScrew down the fence so you can cut the indexing pin slot.\nStep 7: Step 7: Cut Dado Slot\nThe slot width will be how wide your finished joints are. The depth of the slot should be a little less than the thickness of the wood you will use.", "493" ], [ "I use a 1/2\" dado for 3/4\" thick wood.\nStep 8: Step 8: Cut and Install Indexing Pin\nRemove the fence. Now cut indexing pin material to fit tight in the slot in the fence. I used oak for wear resistance.\nStep 9: Step9: Permanently Install the Fence\nNow install the fence offset from the blade by that distance as the width of the indexing pin. You can use some of your extra indexing pin material to do this. Now permanently glue and screw the fence in place while the slides are still in the miter slots so it doesn't move.\nStep 10: Step 10: Wax the Slides and Base\nNow wax the slides and base to allow the jig to move smoothly on the table.\nStep 11: Step 11: Test!\nTest using a scrap piece. Start with first piece butted up against the indexing pin and work your way over. Not flip that piece over and put it back over the indexing pin as a reference for the mating piece. Work your way across the mating piece until its complete. Test the joint. If it fits properly, you can glue it together to make it permanent.", "599" ], [ "DIY Planter Caddy\nIntroduction: DIY Planter Caddy\nThis planter caddy uses minimal tools and only 2 fence pickets.\nStep 1: Pieces\nYou sill need (2) Sides, (1) Bottom, and (1) Front & (1) Back. See the diagram above for the cut dimensions for the slopes for the side pieces.\nStep 2: Optional Front & Back Rip\nThis is an optional step. A fence picket is usually 5 1/2\". We wanted our front and back to be 4\". You could simply disregard this step.\nStep 3: Sanding\nYou will need to sand all the pieces. I used 80 grit and then finished with 120 grit.\nStep 4: Drill Holes for Sides\nI used a 3/4\" forstner bit to drill the holes for the 1/2\" rope.", "76" ], [ "See the diagram above for the location of the holes.\nStep 5: Installing Side #1\nI started by adding glue and brad nailing 1 side piece to the bottom.\nStep 6: Installing Side #2\nI then flipped the assembly over and repeated the process by adding glue and brad nailing side #2.\nStep 7: Installing Front\nAdd glue to the bottom and side pieces and then brad nail the front to the assembly.\nStep 8: Installing Back\nAdd glue to the bottom and side pieces and then brad nail the back to the assembly.\nStep 9: Drain Holes\nI used a 3/8\" drill bit and drilled holes in the bottom of the caddy so water could drain. See diagram above for hole locations.\nStep 10: Stain or Paint\nApply stain or paint to the caddy. It is best to do this step now instead of after the soil has been added. The soil will stick to the brush and cause your finish to get soil deposits in it.\nStep 11: Soil\nAdd your preferred soil.\nStep 12: Plants\nAdd plants of your liking. I chose Kosmik Kactus that I purchased from The Home Depot.\nStep 13: Rope\nInstall the 1/2\" rope the hole in the side piece. Simply tie a knot once you run it through the hole. Then repeat the process on the other side.", "353" ], [ "Folding Metal Pegboard Tool Wall\nIntroduction: Folding Metal Pegboard Tool Wall\nI highly recommend downloading my free plans that also include all dimensions. The plans are designed to complement the steps here and also provide additional diagrams. Use the two together to get the best results.\nTools Used\n* Table Saw\n* Drill\n* Kreg Pockethole Jig\n* Angle Grinder with Cut-Off Wheel (or hacksaw)\n* Fine Hand File\n* Clamps\n* Tape Measure\n* Miter Saw (optional)\n* Impact Driver (optional)\n* <PERSON> (optional)\nSupplies\n* Wall Control Panel(s)\n* 2x4s\n* 3/4\" Plywood\n* Piano Hinge\n* Pockethole Screws\n* Hinge Screws\n* CA Glue\n* CA Glue Accelerant (optional)\n* Wood Glue\n* 1\" Dowel\n* Hardwood Scrap\nStep 1: Mill 2x4 Square\nMost dimensions will be based on the Wall Control panel. Keep it close by to reference measurements during the build. The steps are for one panel, so be sure to repeat each step for each panel you want to hang.\nMost 2x4s from a big box store are rough and have some warping to them. We'll start by milling the 2x4 square.\nThe hinge mechanism will be on the short edge of the Wall Control panel. Cut the 2x4 a little longer than the short edge of the panel.\nSet your table saw fence to 3 1/4\" and rip off one rounded edge. Adjust to 3\" and rip the other side square.\nWe still need to clean up the faces. I set my table saw to 1 3/8\" and ripped the face off in two passes. I then adjusted the fence to 1 1/4\" and ripped the final face of the 2x4 off, again in two passes. If you are not comfortable making this cut, take some extra time and sand each side smooth. If you have a thickness planer, plane each face till the total thickness is 1 1/4\".\nStep 2: Cut Notch in 2x4\nSet your milled 2x4 on the back of the Wall Control panel and mark out a notch to cut out. The offcut will be slotted behind back panel mounting piece for stability.\nOnce marked, take the piece over to your table saw and set your fence based on your marks.", "431" ], [ "Make sure to adjust the saw blade height as well. We'll want to keep the offcut.\nIf you do not feel comfortable making this cut, you can hog out all the material, but then cut a small piece from another 2x4 piece to fill the void.\nOnce the notch is cut, cut all pieces to their final length based on the panel.\nStep 3: Install 2x4 Cleat to Panel\nSlide to the small offcut behind the panel's back lip. It should be snug, but pop in easily. You may need to cut the offcut slightly shorter for it to fit.\nClamp the other side of the 2x4 so it is flush with the front and the notch fits over the back lip of the panel and offcut. Use some clamps to keep everything in place and flip the assembly over.\nDrill a pilot hole through the front top mounting holes of the panel and both 2x4 pieces. Drive a screw through both pieces.\nFlip the panel assembly over and drill several pilot holes through the back and drive screws to fully secure the 2x4 back together.\nStep 4: Install Panel Cross Pieces\nTo add some extra strength to the panels, we need to add a crosspiece to the middle and bottom of the panel. These will be located in the same places the panel would normally be secured to a wall.\nStart by marking both sides of the pieces for holes. Pre-drill to prevent the edges from cracking, then secure to the back of the panel.\nI did this step at the end after the panel was already hung and highly recommend adding these while still on the bench. It will be much easier to secure the pieces before it is above a workbench.\nStep 5: Cut Plywood to Size\nTime to build the opposite side of the hinge. Because we'll be loading the panel with accessories and tools, we'll need to offset the panel from the ceiling. Measure how far from the panel your largest accessory will be. This will be the offset height. We won't factor in the thickness of the Top Mount to provide some additional buffer.\nFor each panel, cut to pieces of 3/4\" plywood to the height measured above. Then, cut each piece to the width of the Wall Control panel.\nWhile you are cutting plywood, cut a Top Mount for each panel.", "56" ] ]

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[ [ "Home Alone\nHow much I’ve missed this movie! It’s been a while since my last watch so I had forgotten almost everything about the plot - except the fact that <PERSON> is indeed home alone. This movie is incredible! It perfectly captures what it means to be a kid. When <PERSON> is left home alone, he proves himself to be extremely resourceful and strong-willed. And it’s extremely entertaining to watch him and the robbers in this cat and mouse game...", "647" ], [ "Highly recommended, especially if you’re in the holiday mood.\nchristmas spirit: snow (a lot of it!), christmas preparations, christmas trip, and christmas sweaters. It’s not a movie about christmas, but the events take place around christmas time and there are a lot of elements that remind me of christmas, such as <PERSON> cutting down a tree and decorating it, or the colorful lights outside every single house, and so on. Sometimes not much is enough. It’s a 5/5 for me.", "657" ], [ "Run\nHoly shit. This was all kinds of intense and riveting. I find it hard to sit through a movie, no matter how short, without pausing multiple times. With Run I didn’t pause it once. Edge of my seat the entire time.\n<PERSON> is fantastic as always, but honestly this is <PERSON> movie. She is the real star here. The movie is somewhat marketed to be about <PERSON> character...", "1009" ], [ "and in some ways it is. But <PERSON> performance knocked <PERSON>’s out of the park. She carried out the more intense, nail-biting and believable acting out of the two. It was her character I was rooting for, and that ending made me whoop and yell “YES GIRL” at my screen because to me, the story was about <PERSON> (<PERSON>) not <PERSON> (<PERSON>).\nI’m really so happy to finally see a movie that features a disabled actor, but also to not have the disability be the defining point of the character’s personality. <PERSON> was manoeuvring through stunts just like any able-bodied actor, giving a badass character an equally badass performance, and displaying representation to a whole group of people who we rarely get to see on screen (or, if we do, are usually performed by actors without a disability). I just know this alone will mean a lot to the disabled community.\nAnd, aside from the script suffering with a little bit of predictability, the film overall was pretty great. I really enjoyed it, and I didn’t have many issues at all with it. I’m definitely going to be keeping an eye on the team that made this.", "577" ], [ "<PERSON>\nJake and <PERSON> have such amazing brother/sister chemistry, it’s ridiculous. It’s almost like they’re actually siblings in real life…\nI also totally forgot that <PERSON> was basically a glorified extra in this film.\nWhat a legendary film.", "217" ], [ "This movie is so good and works on so many levels. From its great acting, amazing soundtrack/original score, and having one of the greatest endings in film history, Donnie Darko is a one of a kind masterpiece.\nI understood this film so much better this time compared to when I first saw it at 12 years old. It’s all makes sense now.\nGrade: 91%", "583" ], [ "The <PERSON> vs. The Machines\nThis was so fun!!! At first I wasn’t sure I was into the animation style, but by the end it had grown on me a lot. It was colourful, quirky, and different – but I loved it.", "252" ], [ "The family’s storyline was great, and the themes about technology were so on the nose it was wickedly funny. There were so many moments that had me laughing out loud to myself, so I definitely enjoyed the humour. What I loved the most though, was that this whole movie was clearly made by people who adore movies themselves, there were so many little references throughout to films and filmmaking, and it’s all those little touches that I think makes me appreciate movies like this all the more.\nWould definitely recommend it.", "583" ], [ "<PERSON>\n<PERSON> was amazing, <PERSON>, you’re awesome and I love you.\nI don’t know how I feel about the film. I mean the acting was great, and the way everything was shot was fabulous. I’m very happy for <PERSON> because it seems like this is a dream project for him, both as director and actor.\nI feel like I just lost interest in some of the dialogue scenes. Some of them happen for like 2+ minutes in a single shot, and I have a TikTok attention span. I sometimes suck to watch movies with.", "217" ], [ "Our generation (me) is chalked.\nEach conductor scene made me happy on the inside. I feel like I have a hidden love for orchestras that I didn’t know existed. I am now going to drive home from the theater while blasting classical music.\nP.S. To the old man sitting next to me in the theater who was laughing and having a good time throughout the film, I really wished I got to talk to you before you walked out. You seem like a nice fella, and I hope you have a good rest of your night.", "583" ], [ "<PERSON>\nI have been on a string of terrible movies lately, so I was desperate for one to break the streak and luckily, <PERSON> did just that. I had no idea this was coming, but anytime there’s a new soder film, I’m hyped. <PERSON>’s directing was both slick and vexing, making the audience feel like there’s always something more sinister lurking beneath the surface (or behind the screen) hehe. The entire movie caught me off guard, but what really got me was the humor.", "577" ], [ "I don’t know what I was expecting, but that really had me chuckling. Early on, I wasn’t really gelling with <PERSON>’s script, but by the end, I was fully on board, and <PERSON> was clearly having fun with his foreshadowy visuals. So many cool shots and scenes but that chase scene stood high above the rest. Highly recommend; a nice little treat from one of the best living directors.", "657" ], [ "People Having Fun\nDefinitely <PERSON>’s most ambitious and out-there film. It’s the type of thing that truly makes you wonder where the hell it’s going next, and thankfully not in a way that’s annoying or amateur as each section brings about various vibes and situations both perplexing and strange.\nI haven’t been interested in filmmaking for awhile now, or watching independent films for that matter.", "647" ], [ "But I’m glad I decided to watch this. It’s been quite a long time since I viewed a <PERSON> film, and it was a great to be back in the mind of this wholly unique artist. A DIY king.\nGood job dude.\nYou have until Monday to watch, before it’s taken off YouTube for idk how long!!\nhttps://youtu.be/W1UfBHZhO7k?si=Yphp8reJyS2Yuxvd", "410" ], [ "The Lego Movie\nSo crazy to me that this is now 10 years old. I’ve loved movies since before I could speak or remember, but this film is what got me to actually think about the movies I watch. It was is the first film I saw that got me to engage with movies rather than look at it as a fun little pastime. This is my favorite animated movie ever. My top four isn’t necessarily my actual top four.", "462" ], [ "It’s hard to pick a favorite movie. I never have an answer to that question, but this film has consistently been at the top. So I feel if there were numbers to run then this would technically be my favorite movie. This movie is amazing and way way more intelligent than it has any right to be. For some reason people still say “it’s just a kids movie.”", "462" ] ]

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[ [ "Hurricane Dorian ambles through the Caribbean, but The Bahamas may still feel its wrath · Global Voices\nAn edited ISS060 image of Hurricane Dorian off the Dominican Republic on August 29, 2019. Image edited and uploaded by <PERSON>, CC BY-NC 2.0.\nAs Hurricane Dorian, the first major storm of the 2019 Atlantic hurricane season, strengthens to Category 4, much of the Caribbean is breathing a sigh of relief that the storm was not as powerful when it travelled through the U.S. Virgin Islands and skimmed Puerto Rico on August 28. Meteorologists have predicted that the storm could ramp up to Category 5 as it heads for Florida:\nThis is about as perfect as a hurricane gets in the Atlantic Ocean.\nHurricane #Dorian is a strong Category 4, and possibly will become a Category 5 later today.\nThis is a looming catastrophe for the northern Bahamas. pic.twitter.com/oG3c0hkz15\n— <PERSON> (@EricHolthaus) August 31, 2019\nSince its journey through the region, Dorian has grown in both strength and intensity. The Bahamas has hunkered down and is bracing for rough weather, as the storm's path is expected to continue along the northwest of the archipelago. Hurricane-force winds are estimated to extend outward up to 30 miles (45 km) from the storm's centre, bringing 10 to 15 inches of rain to the northwest Bahamas and 2 to 4 inches in the central Bahamas—conditions which have the potential to cause flash flooding and loss of life.\n<PERSON>, curator at the National Art Gallery of The Bahamas, posted on Facebook:\nThe Bahamas is not ready for any storm–much less a significant cat 3/4 hurricane–we are not even ready for a few inches of rain. The northern islands and its people cannot go through this trauma, again. At this point, it seems unending and relentless.\nShe went on to detail the storms the archipelago has suffered, the billions of dollars worth of damage as a result, and deferred attempts to invest in green energy and hardier infrastructure, concluding:\nI know we rebound quickly and in the Caribbean, it is our nature to do so. […]\nHowever, we must be asking ourselves other questions now, more in-depth inquiries about our futures, the countries we want to occupy, the spaces that we want to build, the peace we want to inhabit and the WHOLE citizens we aspire to be.", "482" ], [ "If we do not, we fall into the trap of being generationally traumatised peoples moving into a future of rising sea levels, mounting temperatures and being re-colonised by systems of embedded failure.\nMeanwhile, Bahamian Prime Minister <PERSON> has put an evacuation order in place for parts of Grand Bahama and the Abaco Islands, saying that this was not a storm to be trifled with.\n<PERSON> responded to this news by saying:\nI am on my goat knees praying for the safe passage through the tempest for the people of the Abacos and Grand Bahama. I just watched the evacuation notice and my heart and mind can not fathom what the next 48 hours will look like for them. Gut wrenching terror as they prepare for landfall.\nNassau will not be in the direct path of Dorian but we are in the cone and will experience tropical storm conditions. To say this is fortunate feels unfair in the face of what’s to come.\nThe might of the storm has not deterred American hurricane chaser <PERSON>, though, who was determined to get to The Bahamas before access was shut down:\nGoin' for it. Last flight into Abaco Islands #Bahamas before it shuts down. I passionately hate Island Roulette. But I hate standing on my hind legs for three days to lick the bland edges of an unraveling recurver even more. I may go down in flames on this chase. Oh well. #DORIAN pic.twitter.com/eIt41DIJny\n— <PERSON> (@iCyclone) August 31, 2019\nDorian appears to be turning farther north even with The Bahamas in its sights. But the fact that it is a lumberingly slow-moving storm has some suggesting that it could be the most violent system to hit the east coast of the United States in 30 years.", "166" ], [ "Amid Black Lives Matter protests, fresh calls to remove statuary that hijacks the Caribbean’s historical narrative · Global Voices\nThe statue of Vice-Admiral <PERSON>, which stands near the entrance to Bridgetown, the Barbadian capital. Photo by <PERSON> on Flickr, CC BY-NC 2.0.\nBlack Lives Matter (BLM) protests have seen a global resurgence following the killing of <PERSON>, an African American, by a white police officer in Minneapolis, Minnesota in the United States.\nOne ripple effect of the protests has been the denigration and defacement of symbols of black oppression. The Caribbean, with its long history of occupation, has its own symbols of oppression to reconsider.\nIn Richmond, Virginia, on June 2, hundreds of protestors assembled in front of the statue of General <PERSON>, a American Civil War Confederate general, shouting, “Tear it down!” The state's governor, <PERSON>, announced that the statue of <PERSON> would be removed; the process has since been blocked by a court order.\nOn June 7, United Kingdom protestors tore down a statue of Bristol slave trader <PERSON> and stomped on it before throwing it into the harbour. A statue of slave trader <PERSON> was also retired in front of the West India Docks in London.\nSome have supported the symbolic act of reclaiming dignity and exposing long-celebrated racists, while others have condemned this method of protest.\nIn the Caribbean, calls to rename certain places have surged. King George V Park in Port of Spain, Trinidad, for instance, is also called Nelson Mandela Park. However, statuary has largely remained.\nMost regional territories have robust examples of public art that honour the slave struggle, including <PERSON>, who led the largest slave rebellion in the history of Barbados; <PERSON>, the leader of a 2,500-strong slave revolt in Guyana; and the “Redemption Song” statue at Jamaica's Emancipation Park, but there are also myriad examples of statues that reinforce the tainted narrative of discovery and ownership.\nSeveral Caribbean nations are challenging the wisdom of having such statuary on public display. Feminist and university lecturer <PERSON> observed on Facebook:\nI don’t think there has been a global uprising of this geographical scope and diversity since the 1970s.", "678" ], [ "[…] Sparked by the BLM movement in the US and now expanded into decolonial struggle and dismantling racism more broadly, it does seem like — for almost the first time in 50 years — we are listening to another world breathing.\nIn Martinique, where a statue of French abolitionist <PERSON> was toppled, two of the young women involved explained their decision in a YouTube video:\nWe, the young people of Martinique, are sick and tired of being surrounded by symbols that insult us. We were not the first to attack these symbols. Many before us have tried in vain to get rid of them […]\nWhat is a statue? It is stating this is someone we admire for the impact he or she has had in the course of our history. […] <PERSON> was in favour of the compensation of the plantation owners; there are many transcripts proving that claim. If he had not, maybe it would have been different.\nAs the pair pointed out, the discussion is not new.\nBarbadians, for instance, have been agitating for the removal of a statue of <PERSON> for decades. In 2017, Sir <PERSON>, vice-chancellor of The University of the West Indies and chairman of the Caribbean Community's (CARICOM) Reparations Committee, referred to <PERSON> as “a vile, racist, white supremacist [who] disposed of black people, and dedicated his political and military life to the cause of protecting Britain’s criminal possession of the 800,000 enslaved Africans held during his lifetime.”\nIn the wake of <PERSON>'s horrific murder, the discussion around such monuments has grown more urgent.\nThere are currently several online petitions circulating in the region, including the Barbadian thrust to do away with <PERSON>'s presence in the nation's capital.\nArtist <PERSON>, who shared the petition, noted:\n[…] while I don't think to destroy the statue of <PERSON> is useful, I do think that relocating it to the museum or somewhere outside of National Heroes Square is viable and worth a national discussion. It is no longer called Trafalgar Square and he is not a hero. Wherever his statue is relocated to, it should include complete signage to clearly demonstrate who he was, what he did and his role in the colonial machinery that oppressed people.\nIn response to a commenter who challenged the idea of taking down the statuary with a “Where will it end?", "678" ], [ "TIME Magazine chooses Barbados Prime Minister <PERSON> as one of ‘the world’s most influential people’ · Global Voices\nBarbados Prime Minister <PERSON> speaking at the 16th Raúl Prebisch Lecture held in Geneva, Switzerland, on September 10, 2019. Photo by <PERSON> (UNCTAD) on Flickr, CC BY-SA 2.0.\n“The choice of my public life has been to be a lawyer, an advocate, as well as to be a representative of the people.” Her fierce, determined advocacy for the Caribbean at COP 26 made Barbados Prime Minister <PERSON> far more than a champion of the region; it cemented her place in the global consciousness as a forward-thinking leader and change maker, and no doubt contributed to TIME Magazine's decision to include her in its list of The 100 Most Influential People of 2022.\nThe magazine tweeted:\n“<PERSON> is an embodiment of our conscience, reminding us all to treat our planet and therefore one another with love, dignity, and care,” writes <PERSON> (@NOIweala) #TIME100 https://t.co/HuMRgPMnZr pic.twitter.com/DsNieGB1Qt\n— TIME (@TIME) May 23, 2022\nThe rationale for <PERSON>'s inclusion on the list was penned by <PERSON>, director-general of the World Trade Organization, herself an environmental sustainability advocate.\nIn her profile video, <PERSON> explained her position on the climate issue very succinctly:\nThe climate crisis — and I don't say ‘change’ — is real. And the time for climate justice is also upon us, because if we're going to do the things that are necessary for us to adapt to this new reality, it takes time and it takes money. […] We're at 1.2 [degrees Celsius] already and look at what 1.2 is doing for us. […]\nWe have a saying in Barbados: ‘One one blow does kill old cow,’ which is simply to say, ‘One blow at a time, one step at a time.’\nIn other words, crises happen incrementally.", "941" ], [ "Like most Small Island Developing States (SIDS) that are in the frontline of climate change impacts, the Caribbean has been dealing with the starkest effects of global heating, in the form of everything from more devastating hurricanes, to coral bleaching and coastal erosion, which are getting worse from year to year.\n<PERSON>'s stewardship of the environment is not the only thing she's been lauded for, however. As prime minister, she has spearheaded other progressive initiatives, including starting the process to abolish the secondary school entrance exam, long regarded as a thorn in the side of equitable education in the region; declaring her intent for Barbados to recognise same-sex unions; and delivering on her promise of making Barbados a republic. Telling TIME Magazine that her country and the wider region “have been the victims of imperial ambitions for too long,” she wanted to let “that little Barbadian boy, that little Barbadian girl, believe that they could aspire to the the head of state in their own country.”\nIn the same vein, her administration also coordinated the removal of a statue of British naval commander <PERSON> from the country's National Heroes Square, because of his role in the transatlantic slave trade: “Sometimes we need to put things away,” she explained in her video, “contextualise them and move again. And that's all we're doing, without acrimony, without great emotion, but we believe that we must do this as an act of self-love.”\nAgainst the backdrop of increased instances of crime, <PERSON> has also spoken out against Barbadian musicians who “glorify gun violence,” explaining that their songs do not reflect the values of Barbadians, or what the country stands for.\nHer deep-rooted sense of social justice, her pride in her Caribbean heritage, and her clear vision for the excellence her country can offer the world despite its size, are all vital ingredients of the Motley brand of governance. She considers herself a representative of the electorate rather than a politician:\nI believe that I'm here to represent [their] interests […] And there are so many who are voiceless and they're so many who are incapable of action, but if those of us who have the capacity can make that difference in their lives, then the world would be a better place.", "271" ], [ "In Trinidad & Tobago, where women are under siege, sometimes even words feel futile · Global Voices\nA mural from Guatemala's Safe Cities Programme, for which UN Women commissioned the images as part of the annual 16 Days of Activism Against Gender-Based Violence in 2017. Photo by UN Women/<PERSON> on Flickr, CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.\nEditor's note: Trinidad and Tobago has been experiencing an upsurge in femicides and gender-based violence for several years, some of which appears to be linked to an increase in human trafficking. On November 29, 2020, teenager <PERSON> was abducted by the driver of a Private Hire (PH) car; she was later found dead. Two months later, to the day, 23-year-old <PERSON> was kidnapped, last seen in a taxi she had hailed to take her home after work on January 29. Since then, social media users have been sharing their anger, frustration and prayers asking, begging, for her safe return.\nTrinidadian poet <PERSON>, who wrote about both these young women and the wider issue of gender violence in a Facebook post, offers deep insight into how unsafe women are feeling. Her piece is republished in full, below.\nI write poems. There is a space where the poem feels futile. That space is the several days of <PERSON> abduction. The language of the kidnapping is its own severe metre:\n“They searched the forest for the woman.\nShe was not found.”\nSometimes, the cruelty of the world renders the instrument of a poem mute. I wanted to write a poem for <PERSON>, and I could not. The kind of poem I want to write about <PERSON> is a poem of return, not a poem of dreadful sorrow.\n“A young woman gets into a taxi.\nThe taxi bears false ‘H’ plates.”\nWhen life is hard and men are brutal, you can build a poem out of nothing but the facts. The poem writes itself around the ransom calls, the threats of severed ears, the ticking clock.\n“My daughter has a rare skin condition.\nI am begging, I’m begging.”\nI don’t want to write anything but a series of messages to my family and my friends saying that <PERSON> has been found. If I could write whatever I wanted, I would be able to say that <PERSON> has been unkilled, brought back to life to visit her grandmother without fear.\nInstead of that, I am holding my breath.", "941" ], [ "Instead of that, I refresh my Google Search throughout the day. Every time I type in ‘<PERSON>’, Google suggests I add ‘found’ to my inquiry, suggesting that around our twin islands, people are typing ‘<PERSON> found’ with frequency, with urgency, with desperate hope. I wish our collective hope was not desperate, but it is. It feels desperate. I don’t think I can write a poem or an essay or anything that can help against that. Then I am reminded that one of the earliest functions of poetry is prayer.\nMy prayer is simple.\nPlease may <PERSON> be safe.\nPlease may <PERSON> be unharmed.\nPlease may <PERSON> be found.\nWhat I want is a world where we are unkillable. I want an island where we wake up and board taxis with the certainty that we will not be abducted, that our cell phones, bank cards and toiletries will not be found in the homes of our abductors. I would like to live here and not be afraid. I want that for you, too. For you to stop getting up at three am and looking out your apartment windows into the streets where cctv can only tell people how you were hurt, not help you during the hurting. I want you not to clutch your keys like talons. I want all of this, our hundreds of disappeared countrypeople, not to make you bitter and vengeful.\nI want to tell you I have answers, but I don’t. Only poems, and sometimes, lately, not even those.\nMay you sleep well, and deeply, where you lay your head tonight.\nMay the taximan whose car you enter tomorrow morning be known to you, be safe as your every breath.\nUpdate: On February 4, police confirmed that the female body found down a precipice in the Heights of Aripo, is that of 23-year-old, <PERSON>.\n<PERSON> 2017 poetry collection, Everyone Knows I Am a Haunting, was shortlisted for the 2018 Felix Dennis Award for best first collection.", "820" ], [ "The Zika Virus Threat Looms Large in the Caribbean · Global Voices\n“Death to Chikungunya #Trinidad” may soon have to be renamed to “Death to Zika”. Photo by <PERSON>, used under a CC BY-NC-SA 2.0 license.\nThe Zika virus is causing a bit of a panic in the Caribbean after Brazilian health authorities noticed an unusually high incidence of microcephaly in areas of the country that have high mosquito populations. Microcephaly is a neurodevelopmental disorder in which the head circumference of newborn babies is smaller than usual. Brazil has since made a connection between the mosquito-borne Zika virus and the foetal brain-damage outbreak — and doctors there are suggesting that the virus “could be having a wider range of effects” on foetal development. Unsurprisingly, the virus is spreading beyond South America.\nIn Trinidad and Tobago, the most southerly islands in the Caribbean archipelago, the virus has been declared a national health emergency.\n#Caribbean #News: Trinidad declares health emergency over Zika virus: The post Trinidad declares health emerge… https://t.co/W7BdOdfTqQ\n— Le JAKO de l'île! (@TwitJAKO) January 31, 2016\nAs in other areas where the virus is a threat, women have been advised not to get pregnant, but this is not always a surefire method of prevention in a region where access to contraception may be limited or a low priority for those in lower income brackets, and where religious beliefs often play a role in decisions over artificial birth control.\nTrinidad and Tobago appears to be taking a proactive approach to the problem, however. Rapid Response Units (RRUs) are being set up throughout the twin island republic to deal with the prevalence of the the Aedes Aegypti mosquito, which spreads the disease. Fogging and spraying of residential communities, which has not been as widespread as is needed to keep the mosquito population at bay, will also be on the increase. The country's health minister has given instructions that during the country's Carnival season, all the major event venues will be sprayed, though he stopped short at screening visitors for the virus at ports of entry, saying it was not a feasible proposition.", "1019" ], [ "Instead, he encouraged people to take precautions against getting bitten and to ensure that their homes are not breeding grounds for mosquitos.\nMeanwhile, the World Health Organisation has announced that the Zika virus constitutes a global health emergency:\nZika-linked disease is WHO emergency https://t.co/NVSsGyLIcM #Caribbean #LatAm\n— ISLAND SWAG (@islandswagco) February 1, 2016\nAt the Barbados Underground blog, <PERSON> wrote a guest post lamenting the “lazy” response to the Zika threat by the country's health authorities:\nZika is upon us with the US CDC [Centers for Disease Control and Prevention] issuing a travel advisory against countries with cases. Unfortunately, many are not reporting that this mosquito born disease also causing paralysis in adults. Hopefully, some day the lazy indifferent decision makers will learn the importance of the proactive approach. I guess they are waiting until the planes start arriving empty to act.\nScientists are currently investigating whether the Zika virus is also linked to the nerve disorder Guillain-Barré, which can cause paralysis.\nMuch further north along the archipelago, <PERSON>, a Dominican Republic-based blogger, remembered the debilitating effect the mosquito-borne Chikungunya virus has had on her:\nI have not been well really since the chikungunya.\nThat must be about two years now […] the pains in my joints have not really left me, just as some had predicted might happen.\n<PERSON>, my neighbor who has 25 years on me, stops in front of the bars on my ground floor apartment on her way to the market and we rub our respective wrists and complain about our ankles.\nOf the Zika threat, she wrote:\nNow there is another virus on the way. One that attacks new bornes [sic]. Called Zika. It gives them tiny heads. The women and girls are being told not to get pregnant.\nBut the Catholic Church, which rules here under the Papal Nuncio, forbids the use of contraceptives (ah yes, you think that they use them? that the machos spend their money on latex? that they take showers with raincoats? think again)\nand abortion is prohibited […]\nFears over the spread of the disease and its threat to children still in utero have resulted in several countries issuing travel advisories, which could in turn have a serious negative effect on Caribbean tourism, the economic mainstay of several regional territories. There is currently no treatment or vaccine available for the virus.", "142" ], [ "2016 Was the Caribbean’s Year of Loss · Global Voices\nThe year 2016. Image by <PERSON>, used under a CC BY-ND 2.0 license.\nFor bloggers in the Caribbean, “2016” has nearly become an obscenity. Adjectives now used to describe this “annus horribilis” include “sucky”, “terrible” and “the worst”. The thing that drove netizens over the edge — compounding the region's soaring crime rate and economic challenges — was the fact that so many outstanding artists, leaders and visionaries passed away this year.\nSwan Songs\nIt began with the musicians. In early January 2016, Trinidadian steel band arranger, <PERSON>, passed away on the eve of the country's Panorama music contest, where scores of steel pan players, organised into full orchestras, compete for one of the most prestigious titles on the annual Carnival circuit.\nThe Facebook group Maraval Road summed up the loss quite succinctly:\nThe pan world lost one of the biggest icons today. <PERSON> is credited with pushing pan to the next level and has written some of what is still known as the most difficult and genre defying music ever to come from Trinidad and Tobago.\n<PERSON> worked his magic with countless musical pieces over the years, like this novel arrangement of calypsonian Lord Kitchener‘s “Mystery Band”:\nFour short days later, the region — like much of the rest of the world — was shocked at the passing of British-born rocker <PERSON>. <PERSON>'s music affected the people of the Caribbean in astounding ways. In an interview with Global Voices, fashion blogger <PERSON> explained why:\nI wasn't surprised at the universal reaction […] but the Caribbean reaction was thrilling and reassuring in a different way. Growing up in Trinidad, it wasn't always easy to discover older music in different genres and I sometimes felt like a teenage misfit listening to The Beatles, <PERSON> and <PERSON>. You have to seek it out. I love that so many of us did, and we are all feeling the loss.\nAnother international artist whose death, in April 2016, shook Caribbean music fans to their core was <PERSON>. American artist and activist <PERSON>, wrote a blog post about the impact of <PERSON>'s music; it was widely shared across the regional blogosphere:\nAs is the case with all cultural icons, the grief is being felt in all corners, by people of all races, ethnicities, economic classes, gender expressions, etc. There is no doubt that his Purple Majesty touched people all over this world.\nFor me, <PERSON> was confirmation of the heights one could reach when they weren’t afraid…to be different.", "550" ], [ "Non-conforming. Confusing. Questionable. Nuanced. Hard to understand. Hard to explain. Though I was deeply appreciative of his musical genius, <PERSON> was more of a spiritual psychopomp for me, a shining example of how to obtain the deepest form of liberation: being your damn self.\nBy July, the brilliant but largely unacknowledged Trinidadian guitarist <PERSON> also passed away. <PERSON>'s inimitable style earned him the international reputation of being one of the greatest chord players of all time, alongside some of the world's best known jazz musicians, like <PERSON> and <PERSON>. Trinidadian calypsonian <PERSON>, who paid tribute to <PERSON> in his classic song Calypso Music, posted this Facebook status update on hearing of <PERSON>'s passing:\n<PERSON>'s gone boy. We wasted his brilliance. We only entered his library now and then. What a people eh!\nFor people like him, let's hope that there really is an afterlife so that his fingers can dance across the fretboard again. RIP boss.\nTrinidadians <PERSON> and <PERSON>, who each in his own way loved and promoted the music and culture of the country — and the region — also passed away this year.\nFinal Innings\nTwo seminal personalities in the world of sport left us in 2016. Hearts were heavy with grief the world over at the deaths of Barbadian cricket commentator <PERSON> and <PERSON>, the first Trinidadian to to circumnavigate the globe in his trusty ketch, the Hummingbird II.", "357" ], [ "Could Miami show Trinidad and Tobago how to safely pull off Carnival in a pandemic? · Global Voices\nMiami Broward Carnival 2014. Photo by <PERSON> on Flickr, CC BY-SA 2.0.\nMiami Carnival, a popular community event that is primarily fashioned after Trinidad and Tobago's annual Carnival celebrations, took place during the week of October 2-10. Many Trinbagonian performers, promoters, musicians and masqueraders travelled to Florida for the event, which was attended by thousands of Carnival enthusiasts, leaving local social media users expressing concerns about what their re-entry into the country could potentially mean for the battle against COVID-19.\nTrinidad and Tobago has had some of the strictest health regulations in the Caribbean region since the start of the pandemic, with mandatory mask-wearing, social distancing and public gathering protocols being legislated early on. In addition, the country's borders remained closed to non-nationals for more than a year, and the last major lockdown, which was instituted in May 2021, brought with it the closure of beaches and non-essential businesses, as well as the cessation of outdoor exercise.\nAs at the time of publishing, beach access and group outdoor sports are still prohibited, with many netizens advocating for an easing up of restrictions—especially because the number of new cases has remained fairly steady, hovering around 250 per day despite the May stay-at-home orders. With the pending return of Miami Carnival revellers to Trinidad and Tobago's shores, some social media users are nervous about the potential further spread of the virus, especially given that Chief Medical Officer <PERSON> confirmed on September 27 that the more contagious Delta variant is now at the stage of community spread.\nIn a public post, Facebook user <PERSON> was one of several Trinidadians who expressed concern:\nCould be my age but I have serious anxiety about Miami Carnival. Hope I am wrong.\nResponses to her post were mixed, with some agreeing and others maintaining that COVID-19 is something we all have to learn to live with. <PERSON>, for instance, felt that <PERSON> was being sensible, saying, “The price to be paid will not be worth that jam and wine!” <PERSON> countered:\nWe can't stay locked up forever. Football stadiums in England more packed than those Miami events.\n<PERSON>, however, responded:\nI understand that but uk is 63% vacinated we are 32% that is real numbers.\nWhile <PERSON> point that “lockdowns are temporary fixes not the solution” may be sound, the fact remains that in a vaccine-hesitant region like the Caribbean, where many regional health systems will not be able to withstand an increased demand on its services, and citizens have been feeling the mental, physical and economic effects of lockdowns for some time now, events like Miami Carnival present an unwelcome complication.\n<PERSON> put it this way:\nHighly vaccinated countries such as the UK that are pretty much back to normal, but they have the capacity within their health care system to treat with the rising numbers that will come with fully open economies. My question is, can we compare in that way? We are way less vaccinated and our resources are much less.", "1019" ], [ "What will be our outcome? It's a hard time to govern!\nSeveral commenters, including <PERSON>, noted that proof of being COVID-19 negative was required to participate in the festivities:\nMy understanding is that anyone who participated in the carnival events had to present a negative PCR test result. There were free testing stations, temperature checks. They followed strict protocols to provide a safe as possible environment for all entering the Fairgrounds for both J’ouvert and the parade. I know that at least one fete required PCR negative test. I’m hoping that most people attending were vaccinated. My friends who participated are all fully vaccinated. Hoping that it wasn’t a super spreader.\nIndeed, the event's website specified that under the theme “No mask, no mas”, the Miami-Broward One Carnival Host Committee emphasised its commitment to making all interaction safe, given the situation with the COVID-19 pandemic:\nCovid 19, along with the Delta variant, has changed the landscape of our world, so we must change with it. [We are] committed to our patrons’ safety [and] will incorporate and go beyond the CDC’s minimum requirements.\nA follow-up post on its Facebook page confirmed:\nAll patrons are required to have a mask on during the event at all times. Failure to comply will result in removal. Let's have a safe Miami Carnival 2021!", "1019" ], [ "Trinidad & Tobago: Giving Up the Post? · Global Voices\nDespite the devastation taking place in other parts of the region, in Trinidad and Tobago it appears to be politics as usual. On the heels of news that party voting for leadership of the opposition United National Congress had gone in resounding favour of <PERSON>, former party leader (and founder) <PERSON> reacted by refusing to admit defeat. Bloggers discuss the impasse…\nTrinidad and Tobago girls, politics, sports, technology, carnival, and lifestyle comments:\nIn effect, he is challenging Mrs <PERSON> to prove she has the support of at least 7 MP's in Parliament, excluding herself.\nIt appears she has the immediate support of 4 members, <PERSON>, <PERSON>, <PERSON>, and possibly, <PERSON>.\nWhatever happens, politics in Trinidad and Tobago will never be the same.\nBarbadian blogger <PERSON> can't believe <PERSON> is refusing to go graciously:\n<PERSON> just doesn't know when to call it quits. Show some humility for once, <PERSON>…\nOf <PERSON>'s claim that “boxes allegedly containing thousands of party membership cards were discovered hidden at the Rienzi Complex, Couva, headquarters”, Trinidadian diaspora blogger <PERSON> has this to say:\nAn argument can be made that they belonged to people who are supporters of <PERSON> and it was <PERSON>’ team who suppressed them.\nAll I can think of is the ‘<PERSON> lil boy syndrome’, you know the one where ‘if I cyah bat, I taking meh bat and ball and going home’.\nThis man behaves (at the age of 77) the way a little child would!\n<PERSON>, meanwhile, refers to an old <PERSON> calypso, “Ten to One is Murder”:\n10-1 is murder!\nOr so <PERSON> said.\nYet, despite a 10-1 drubbing by <PERSON> in the UNC leadership elections, <PERSON>, like <PERSON>, ‘nah leaving.’\nNot that I think we expected any different. <PERSON> have to hold strong now.\nkid5rivers puts it a little more bluntly:\nAccordingly, gentlemen, please stop the shyte! Your antics are pathetic…and that's a most diplomatic description, okay? You were soundly beaten, fair and square!\nTrinidadian journalist <PERSON>, who now resides in Barbados, marks the occasion of <PERSON>'s “political passing” by republishing an interview he did “with then Leader of the Opposition, <PERSON>, in March 2002″, adding:\nNo one I've met is nearly as quick on their mental feet as <PERSON>; and that certainly includes everyone on the TT political scene today.\nBack in Trinidad, <PERSON> considers what the result could mean politically:\nAccording to the twittersphere, <PERSON> has won the United National Congress Alliance internal election. For the nosebleed section, that means that <PERSON> is no longer running the show.\nThat being said, there has been some mention of a coalition between COP and the UNC-A.", "957" ], [ "What it should be, if they want to wedge their way back into the misdirected Westminster system, is a reconciliation between the two groups of supporters. The UNC-A supporters strongly echoed the sentiments of a split vote yet the voices from which they echoed did not openly recognize the fact that the vote was split because people didn't believe they weren't very good at Opposition. If the last two elections have demonstrated anything, it is the lack of popular support of the party parading (barely) as Opposition.\nKnowTnT.com‘s <PERSON> has the last word:\nUNC MP <PERSON> and ex-Chairman of the Membership Committee <PERSON> hosted a news conference yesterday to give further details on the alleged discovery of boxes containing “thousands” of undistributed UNC membership cards at Rienzi Complex, home of the UNC's administrative offices. It was carried live by media houses on the Internet and reported in today's papers…\nI looked at the news conference via C News’ live Internet broadcast Internet yesterday and was left a bit confused. At the end of it, I quite frankly was left with the feeling that here was a bunch of poor-me-ones trying to deflect public attention from the winds of change by claiming some fraud occurred. Their hinting of the possibility of some member of the public seeking court-room clarification on this discovery was puzzling: clarification of what?\nIn management, there is collective responsibility for governance.", "892" ] ]

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[ [ "<PERSON> a Cardboard Robot\nIntroduction: <PERSON> a Cardboard Robot\n<PERSON> is an #OttoRemix entirely cardboard version of the original #OttoDIY of which he takes over all the electronic components and programming with OttoBlockly.\nAll information on how to build the OttoDIY robot with the 3D printer and all types of electronic components are available at https://www.instructables.com/Otto-DIY-Humanoid-Ro... and on the official website http://www.ottodiy.com.\nThis project shows specifically how to build <PERSON> the #OttoRemix but made entirely of Cardboard.\nSupplies\nSupplies\n(All the electronic components are the same as OttoDIY)\n1 x Arduino Nano\n1 x Nano Shield I/O\n1 x cable USB-A to Mini-USB\n1 x ultrasound sensor HC-SR04\n4 x Micro servo MG90s\n1 x Buzzer\n24 x Female/Female Jumper Wire\n10 × Female/Female Jumper Wires\n1 x Nano Shield I/O\n1x charger + power booster + 16340 Lithium Battery or 2x Battery CR123A or 16340 + Battery Holder CR123A\n1 x Small Phillipis screwdriver\nSpecifically for Otto Cardy\n2x Cardboard sheet A4 2mm, Corrugated or Greyboard\n1x clip of Ikea Bevara Bag Sealing Clip\nStep 1: Body Building\nTo begin with, you can start by cutting the body of the robot consisting of three pieces that must be wedged together. The two PDF files Otto_Cardy1.pdf and Otto_Cardy2.pdf contains the technical drawing of all components and must be printed in A4 format. To get the exact dimensions please print at 102% size.\nThe A4 drawing should be glued to the cardboard and then cut along the edges indicated by the continuous red line. It is recommended to use a sharp cutter for the holes and the openings. The dashed red line indicates where to fold the edges of the carton while the dashed lines of other colors indicate projection lines.\nIn image, points A are marked in red to facilitate the assembly of the pieces. To increase the rigidity of the structure where the motors are hooked, I used two overlappings pieces and glued layers of cardboard.\nStep 2: How to Make Head of the Robot\nThe second drawing OttoDIY_Card2.pdf contains the quoted reliefs of the components of the head with all the closing pieces. The design of the legs and feet, being symmetrical, are drawn only once, and it should be remembered that they must be printed twice and must be glued in a mirrored way: in the drawing is inserted the inscription x2.\nIn yellow, the drawing of OttoDIY's head (HEAD) with its cover is highlighted. The part corresponding to the foot (FOOT) is dealt with in the following chapter.\nTo facilitate assembly, the points (A) that must coincide in the two pieces are highlighted in red color.\nThe two pieces must be assembled using glue and masking tape to hold the various parts during assembly.", "354" ], [ "Start by matching the letter A with two pieces and then following the outline. You can put glue along the entire edge and place it in succession\nThe head must be inserted accurately outside the body and must therefore be \"built\" and closed using the body as a template and reference shape. To have a good closure between the two pieces, try to give the two a slightly conical shape in oerder to have a precise interlocking but also easy to remove\nStep 3: How to Make Legs of the Robot\nIn the second drawing OttoDIY_Card2.pdf there are listed all reliefs of the legs and the feet. The design of the legs and feet, being symmetrical, is printed only once but must be made in two identical copies: in fact, the inscription x2 is inserted in the drawing\nThe legs are formed by cardboard wrapped around the motor and glued to the holder, which is screwed to the head motor.\nThe leg supports are made from a single clip, cut to a length of 25 cm.\nExample of the cut (red lines) of the Sealing clip:\n1. The two final parts cut to a length of 25 mm (SUPPORT ON FOOT in the drawing)\n2. Grooves where to insert the motor and the Servo Arm. The hole has a diameter of 8 mm\n3. Support mounted in the motor\n4. Servo Horn modified to \"dovetail\"\n5. Groove where to insert the Servo horn.\nThe two supports are the only components of Otto cardy that are not made of cardboard because they must be very sturdy as they must perform the structural function of supporting the legs.", "276" ], [ "Arduino Witch Cauldron\nIntroduction: Arduino Witch Cauldron\nThis project consists of an interactive Arduino-based Halloween decoration referring to a witch cauldron. As you position your face in front of the cauldron and you get close, the eyes start moving around. At the same time, when there is very low light in the room the program turns on a LED light located in the center of the eyes, simulating the pupils.\nSupplies\nMicro Servomotor SG90(x6)\nResistor 10kΩ\nResistor 1kΩ\nResistor 220Ω (x6)\nUltrasonic Distance Sensor\nNPN Transistor PN2222 Photoresistor\nRed LED light (x6)\nProtoboard\nUNO R3 Controller Board\nUSB Cable\nBreadboard Jumper wire\nRegular wire\nFoamboard\nNewspaper\nKitchen towels\nPlastic bucket\nPencil (x3)\nPlastic eyeballs (x6)\nPVC union tube 40mm (x6)\nSpray paint (light green, dark green and black)\nAll-purpose white glue\nGlue gun\nToothpick (x6)\nMetal clip\nStep 1: Schematic of Electrical Connections\nStep 2: Flow Diagram\nStep 3: Guide to Construction\nTake the bucket and give volume to the top edges with rolled newspaper and glue it with the silicone gun, then cover the entire bucket with paper towels and white glue to give texture and more resistance to the borders.\nOnce everything is dry, we give two coats of color with black spray paint.\nStep 4:\nMake a circumference with the foam board so it is high enough to simulate the volume of liquid in the cauldron. Then, drill the holes through in which we will introduce the different elements that will be seen or the ones necessary for the system to work.\nWe paint it with different layers of green shades and let it rest to dry.\nStep 5:\nIn each of the six PVC tubes, cut two slits in the upper part with the saw, which will later be used to support the axis of the eyes.\nNext, paint the visible upper part with the two shades of green, to obtain texture.\nStep 6:\nFor the eyes, cut two small holes in the middle of each one, where a toothpick will be introduced to serve as an axis. And in the part opposite to the pupil, glue with silicone half of a pencil, which will help us to provide movement to the eyes.\nStep 7:\nThen, perform a small opening in the back of each eye, right next to the pencil, which will allow us to introduce the wires of the LED light. At the same time, create another opening right in the pupil, which will be where the LED will come out of the eye.\nStep 8:\nCut the PVC tubes next, as they are the supports of the eyes they have to be shorter, to allow the pencil to have a greater angle of rotation.", "997" ], [ "A quarter of the tube is enough.\nStep 9:\nIntroduce the two wires already stripped through the hole in the back of the eye and extract them through the hole of the pupil. We carefully solder each of the ends to the LED wires. The brown wire goes with the short leg and the blue wire goes with the long leg. The other end of the eyes will be connected to the protoboard.\nStep 10:\nInsert the LED light into the pupil until it fits tightly and add a drop of glue so it doesn't move.\nGlue the servo motors on the side of the tubes, in a position that is aligned to the axis of the eyes. Then, with paper clips, bend the metal until it forms a small piece to hold the pencil and thus make the eye rotate. This small piece will be glued to the servo motor at one end with silicone and the other will hold the pencil, shaped like a hook.\nStep 11:\nIntroduce the six tubes through the holes already cute in the lead foam board and glue them with the silicone gun leaving a small distance on the outside, hiding the whole mechanism on the inside.\nStep 12:\nIn order that the eyes can rotate perfectly, attach some small rubber cylinders in the slits of the tubes, where inside will be the chopsticks that likewise will be able to rotate perfectly.\nCut the leftovers of these last two elements so it does not exceed the borders of the tubes.\nStep 13:\nFor a more aesthetic finish, add different decorations and Halloween details such as spider webs and spiders on the outside of the bucket, and on the inside, glue clear plastic spheres simulating bubbles.\nStep 14: Conclusion\nTo conclude, we would like to mention the most outstanding points during the process of the design and construction of this project.", "997" ], [ "Radio Controlled Hovercraft\nIntroduction: Radio Controlled Hovercraft\nHi ! This tutorial is a summary of a more detailed guide that I previously published here. This model is a good compromise between cost, ease of construction and performance - plus, if you make a good choice of colors, it will look amazing :-)\nI will be looking forward to your successful completion of this model, and if you could show me a picture of your finished model, it will be a great reward for my work. Do not hesitate to ask questions if you have some.\nPlease note that this tutorial is under the Creative Commons 4.0 BY-NC-ND licence.\nSupplies\nPlease visit this page to see the detailed components list. To summarize, you need :\n- a 3 mm thick polypropylene plate (or two plates if you want two different colors like me), 30 screws, piano wire, cable ties, synthetic thread\n- a piece of wire mesh, a piece of cardboard, a garbage bag, a few packing bubbles\n- a Mabuchi 7520 electric motor, a 30 amps ESC, a mini servo, a 5.5\" diameter propeller and its adaptor, a 7,4V LIPO battery, a radio set (transmittor + receptor) with two channels\nStep 1:\nCut a polypropylene plate 50 cm long by 25 cm large. The polypropylene channels must be lengthwise. Each time you cut a polypropylene piece, you can deburr the edges to get a smoother finish.\nDraw four dots, each one being at 7,5 cm from both edges of the hull. Draw two lines to connect the dots as shown. These two lines measure 35 cm long and are separated by 10 cm. With a screw, drill three holes on each line, one at the center and the others at 2,5 cm from both ends of the line.\nCut two polypropylene strips 35 cm long by 2,5 cm large - again the channels must be lengthwise. Put them aside, we will use them later to set the skirt under the hovercraft.\nStep 2:\nThe side on which you draw the two lines is the underside of the hovercraft. Turn the hull over to work on the top.\nIn the center of the hull, at 1,5 cm from one of the edges, draw a 92 mm long by 65 mm large rectangle. Cut three sides of the rectangle as shown on the picture. Using a non-sharp tool, strongly mark the last uncut side of this rectangle to break the polypropylene channels, then fold this piece. You obtain the flap that will deflect part of the air towards the skirt.\nStep 3:\nCut a 22 cm long by 8 cm large polypropylene plate, with the channels lengthwise.", "997" ], [ "This is the motor support.\nAt 6,4 cm from the edges of the motor support, draw two straight lines and strongly mark them with a non-sharp tool. Then fold this piece.\nScrew the motor support from below the hull, above the air deflector flap. Note that no screw should overlap on the two 35 cm lines you have drawn previously. Let a space of 1 cm between the rear of the hovercraft and the rear of the motor support.\nFold the air deflector flap to bring it as close as possible to the motor support. Then screw the flap to the motor support with a screw on each side. Finally, add duct tape on the top, right and left of the air deflector flap to get an airproof compartment.\nStep 4:\nConnect 50 cm of wire (16 awg is recommended) to each polarity of the motor. Put the propeller adaptor and the propeller on the motor axis. To prevent injuries and damage, double check if the propeller is firmly attached on the motor shaft.\nCut two pieces of piano wire, 25 cm long. Make three turns with the piano wire around the two motor mounting screws - you must get a 50° angle, a kind of a V-shape. You should get a length of around 8 cm under the motor, and around 15 cm on the sides. Work the wires until everything is folded correctly and as straight as possible.\nPre-perforate the motor support in the four spots indicated with a straight rod of piano wire, then slowly insert the four \"motor legs\" into the motor support.\nStep 5:\nAt the back of the motor support, on the sides, there should be a few extra centimeters of piano wire. Leave 1 cm and cut the rest. Bend the two rods inside the motor support.\nDrill two holes in the motor support at the rear of the motor to pass a thick cable tie : it will bring the rear of the motor closer to the motor support. We continue with super-gluing the servo behind the motor and placing the radio receiver just behind the air distributor flap. Close the compartment with a polypropylene plate.", "259" ], [ "Stone-Paper-Scissors Game With Pinoo\nIntroduction: Stone-Paper-Scissors Game With Pinoo\nPurpose of the Project: Creating a rock-paper-scissors game with a servo motor module, joystick module, module with lcd (I2c) and distance sensor using the Pinoo control card.\nDuration: 2 lessons\nAge Group: 7 years and older\nPinoo Set: Maker Set, Full Set.\nBenefits:\n• Learns to code Pinoo control card.\n• Learns to code the distance sensor.\n• Learns to code the Servo Motor module.\n• Learns to code the joystick module.\n• Learns to code the LCD module.\n• Improves the skill of setting up algorithms.\n• Improves coding skill.\n• Design skill develops.\n• Designs and plays his own game\nSupplies\nMaterials to be Used: Mblock 3 program, Pinoo control card, distance sensor, 3 servo motor modules, connection cables, joystick module, module with LCD (I2C)\nMaterials Required for Design: Dekota, colored cardboard, cardboard in different colors, eva, silicone gun and silicone, pencil, screwdriver, scissors, knife, ruler.\nStep 1: Project Preparation\n* We draw the hand shapes of the stone, paper, scissors game on the colored cardboard and cut them with the help of scissors.\n* Using a ruler and pencil, we draw two 36x30cm rectangles on the deco. We cut rectangles with the help of a knife.\n* Using a ruler and pencil, we draw two 10x36cm rectangles on the decorate and cut them with the help of a curved knife.\n* Using a ruler and pencil, we draw two rectangles of 10x30cm on the decorator and cut them with the help of a curved knife.\n* With the help of a silicon gun, we glue the pieces we cut from the decota as shown in the figure and form a box.\n* Note: We do not paste the upper part of the box, we will paste it after our codes are finished.\n* We drill rectangular holes as far as the Pinoo control card can pass, to coincide with the back of the box we created.\n* We take the part we cut for the top of the box. By placing the sensors and modules we will use on it, we determine their positions.\n* Note: We arrange the hands so that they do not hit each other and the sensors.\n* We draw the eyes of the sensor on the section we have set to place the distance sensor and cut it with the help of a knife.\nStep 2: Circuit\n* With the help of a silicon gun, we mount the servo motor modules and the distance sensor to the holes we drilled as shown in the figure.\n* We install the propellers of the servo motor modules horizontally, with their ends facing left and right. We fix the screws using a screwdriver to be strong.\n* NOTE: Before fixing the propellers of the servo motor modules, we definitely encode them to 180 degrees!\n* We assemble the stone, paper and scissors drawings we made at the very beginning of the design to the propellers of the servo motor modules with the help of a silicon gun as shown in the figure.\n* We mount the joystick module to the square hole we drilled with the help of a silicone gun.\n* We connect the LCD (I2C) module to the converter so that the GND parts correspond to each other.", "997" ], [ "Then we mount it to the rectangular hole we opened with the help of a silicone gun.\n* We make connections with the modules of the servo motors in a way that corresponds to the \"Brown cable-GND, Red cable-5V, Orange cable-D0\".\n* We connect the modules and the sensor to the Pinoo control card with the help of a connection cable. We connect the LCD (I2C) module to the red / white input number 10.We connect the joystick module to the red / yellow input number 9.\n* We connect the distance sensor to the purple / green input number 5. When we reverse the decode, we connect the servo motor modules to the purple inputs 2,3,4 respectively, starting from the left. (scissors-2nd entrance, paper-3rd entrance, stone-4th entrance)\n* We draw the hand shapes of the game of stone, paper, scissors again on colored cardboard and cut them with the help of scissors.\n* We assemble the upper part of our box with the help of a silicon gun as shown in the figure. Then we decorate it with evas and hand shapes as we want.\n* NOTE: It will be healthier to assemble the upper part of the box after the coding is completed.", "997" ], [ "Clock X - 3D Printed\nIntroduction: Clock X - 3D Printed\nClock X. A clock with a very reduced dial, consisting of a single stl file, simple to print and in two different versions: without or with the text \"As time goes by\".\nI particularly like the colour combination of black dial with these pointed red hands!\nThe clock can be used wall-mounted or standing. In case you want to run it as a standing clock ... there are two different stands available\nDimensions:\nØ 205 x 24mm\nSupplies\nYou can find the movement with the red hands here:\nmetagio Langschaft Uhrwerk mit <PERSON>,Quarz-Uhrwerk Geräuschloses Uhrwerk Wanduhr Bewegungs Mechanismus DIY Wanduhr Ersatzteile für Clock Ersatzteile Ersatz\nIt includes 2 movements and 3 sets of hands. I chose the red clock hands because they have a suitable size and stand out quite well against the black dial.\nThere are also white hands in this set, which stand out even better against the black dial. However, they are too long and would have to be shortened.\nThe two movements have different shaft lengths. For this clock, the movement with the short shaft length (16 mm) should be used.\nFor the installation you need a small spanner (10mm).\nStep 1: Print Preparations\nTo prevent the printing from coming off the plate (warping), I cleaned it with water and isopropyl alcohol first and then sprayed it with 3DLAC.\nIt was the maximum Ø size my Prusa Mk3s printer could print!\nPrint Settings:\n* Printer brand: Prusa\n* Printer: i3 MK3S\n* Supports: No\n* Resolution: 0,2\n* Infill: 10%\n* Filament brand: Prusa\n* Filament color: Galaxy Black\n* Filament material: PLA\nPrinting time with 0.2mm layer height and 10% infill\n* Clock X_notext.stl about 4h 30min\nRemark: As all parts are designed to fit very precisely, it may happen that you have to rework one or the other part a bit with sandpaper and/or cutter due to different dimensional accuracy of the printers and the different behavior of the filaments.\nStep 2: Installation Clockwork\nProceed as follows:\n* insert the \"hook\"\n* put the plastic washer on it (it should prevent the clockwork from rotating)\n* insert the thread of the movement through the hole in the case from behind\n* insert the included washer and screw the nut onto the thread.\n* tighten the nut with a spanner (10mm).", "858" ], [ "Align the movement at the same time!\n* insert the hour hand\n* then the minute hand\n* and finally the second hand\nInsert a battery (AA 1.5V) and align the movement if necessary.\nLet the hands turn and check that they pass each other at the right height.\nIf they touch, you have to \"bend\" them carefully into the right position.\nStep 3: Set the Clock\nTo set the clock, it is best to set the hands to point six o'clock so that both hands form a straight line. Then set the exact time by moving the minute hand only. The hour hand moves automatically.\nDone!\nNow you just have to find a suitable place to hang it up. A small nail in the wall will do.\nStep 4: Clock X Stand\nWith the help of a small stand, it can also be used as a stand clock.\nThere are 2 stands to choose from. I could not decide which one was a more convenient fit.\nEach stand has a slot into which the outer ring of the clock face can be inserted. Gluing is not necessary.\nIn these stands, the dial is slightly inclined backwards at 98°.\nPrinting time with 0.2mm layer height and 10% infill:\n* stand_1.stl about 2h\n* stand_2.stl about 1h 30min\nStep 5: Colour Suggestions\nHardly anyone from the 3D printing community always has all filament colors in stock at home. Me neither! In addition, it is also not useful to print several color versions of this clock, because I do not have so many places to put it. Therefore here are some rendered color versions!\nHave fun with this clock!\nStep 6: Video", "733" ], [ "Fruit Sorter Robot Using Flexible Gripper\nIntroduction: Fruit Sorter Robot Using Flexible Gripper\nHello Everyone, thank you for showing interest in our project. In this project, we are showing a fully automated robot that sorts fruits and vegetables based on their color.\nThe project happened in the context of the Bruface program and more precisely in the mechatronics 1 course. The Brussels Faculty of Engineering (in short, Bruface) is a joint initiative between Vrije Universiteit Brussel (VUB) and Université Libre de Bruxelles (ULB), offering a broad spectrum of fully English-taught Master Programmes in the field of Engineering.\nThe team is composed of 3 members\n* <PERSON>\n* <PERSON>\n* <PERSON>\nThe main purpose of the Mechatronics course is to teach both mechanical structure and electronics. This is the reason why we chose a robot with a mechanical solid structure and a moving flexible gripper able to detect the fruit in a certain zone and sort them by color.\nInitially, we started with a silicone molded soft gripper for sorting vegetables/fruit based on its matureness but as the laboratory was closed for November due to coronavirus and very little time was available to create the soft gripper we switched to a flexible gripper instead of a soft gripper by readapting this gripper found on thingyverse : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2316823\nThe project took 3 months to complete but do not worry this project will regroup all the files needed for the building of the vegetable/fruit sorter robot.\nThe project is about the fabrication of a vegetable/fruit gripper sorter. The gripper is made in a flexible way to be able to pick fragile fruits of various sizes.", "949" ], [ "The total budget you should consider to make this project is around 100-150€ (120-180$) and it will take you 15 to 20h of work to build the entire prototype. We advise you to have someone to help you at some point when you will build the global structure to hold the plate while you screw them together.\nStep 1: Mechanical Design\nThe design looks like this with two laser-cut feet with small supports to ensure stability.\nThe motion is driven by a belt and a stepper motor fixed to the right feet and a lead screw and a stepper motor fixed on the top.\nTwo linear rods of 70cm are attached between the two feet on which the gripper will slide thanks to linear bearings.\nTo ensure a good motion in Z, two linear rods of 22cm are also fixed with the motor and sliding in linear bearings in the fixation.\nThe gripper in itself is driven by a 3D-printed rack and pinion and a servo motor controlling the opening and the closing of the gripper. It is a flexible gripper allowing it to take various sizes of objects.\nNeeded Material\nAll the needed material is in the list below.\n* tons of screws and bolts M3 (for the laser cut assembly mainly) and M5\n* 2 Linear rods 8mm diameter 70cm long\n* 2 Linear rods 8mm diameter 22cm long\n* 1 Lead screw and trapezoidal nut 8mm diameter 15 cm long\n* 1 Trapezoidal belt 5mm width, 1.4m long\n* 1 Arduino Uno\n* 2 Stepper motor NEMA 17 (needed torque around 20Ncm at least)\n* 1 Shaft coupler 5x8mm\n* 1 pulley 5mm inside diameter\n* 2 Stepper motor drivers DRV8825\n* 1 Servomotor MG996R\n* 1 Ball bearing 5mm inside diameter, 13mm outside diameter\n* 5 Linear bearings 8mm inside diameter,15mm outside diameter\n* 1 color sensor TCS3200\n* 1 Laser range sensor GP2Y0A21\n* 2 end switches SS-5GL\n* 1 Potentiometer\n* 1 Button\n* 1 Voltage source 12V (we chose a 12V PDC004 to power the robot through usb-c)\n* 1 DC-DC Voltage step down power module LM2596\n* Cables\nNeeded Prerequisite\nTo finish this project, you will need some basic electronic knowledge in order to connect everything and most importantly, not burn a component or even worst your laptop. Also, you will need to solder cables and components so either you will need to be good at soldering or good in electronic debugging to find the problem after some soldering errors (trust me it happens very often). Same for the coding, we will give you every codes and files to build the project but bugs may occur, knowing the basics about Arduino coding is good to have.\nTools\nLots of pieces are laser cut or 3D printed so you will need access to both a 3D printer and a laser cutter.", "949" ], [ "Floating Virus - Tensegrity - 3D Printed\nIntroduction: Floating Virus - Tensegrity - 3D Printed\nDon't be afraid! This particular covid19 virus is harmless, you don't need to keep your distance! ;-\nSome time ago I found this “beautiful” corona virus model by <PERSON> on https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4166787. My idea was to include this model in my tensegrity collection. Of course I had to change or add some things. It is also slightly scaled up.\nThe thread in the middle of the two half rings - besides the three threads connecting the virus and the base - builds the tension in this object. It's a bit magical how the physical conditions create a tension that makes this object a unit - a perfect unit. At first sight a bit confusing ... you have to look twice to understand the principle.\nDimensions: Virus Ø approx. 94mm, H approx. 180mm, socket Ø 80mm\nPrint Settings:\n* Printer: Prusa I3 MK3S\n* Supports: Yes\n* Resolution: 0.2\n* Infill: 10%\n* Filament brand: Prusa; ICE\n* Filament color: Galaxy Black; Romantic Red; Wintershine White\n* Filament material: PLA\nSupplies\n* Nylon thread Ø 0.35mm\n* Superglue\n* Stop angle\nStep 1: Preparation - Printing\nThe virus is printed in 2 halves (with support). There is a mark (arrow) on the bottom each half of the virus for the correct gluing of the two halves later. These must lie on top of each other when assembling. However, before the two halves are glued together, it should be noted that the arrow on the bottom of the lower virus half also determine the alignment of the upper ring half. See photos!\nI glued the upper half of the virus only at the very end, after the threads have been attached. The creation of the \"tensegrity \"and the final fixing of the threads is exclusively done in the base!\nStep 2: Assembling - Connection Half Rings\nIt is best to start by making the connection between the two half rings.Take about 10-15cm of the nylon thread (Ø 0.35mm). The distance between the rings should be about 25mm.\nThis is not very easy and needs some patience to set the second knot so that this distance is created. Several attempts may be necessary.\nStep 3: Assembling - Installation Half Rings\nNow insert the half rings.", "646" ], [ "To ensure a good fit, the fitting accuracy is very tight. It may be necessary to correct the fit with a cutter knife or sandpaper!e. For a correct alignment you should use a stop angle!\nThere is an arrow on the bottom of the base. This arrow indicates the direction in which the lower half ring must be inserted into the base! There is also an arrow on the underside of the virus. This arrow indicates the direction in which the upper half ring must be inserted into the virus! This can also be seen in the pictures.\nStep 4: Assembling - Create Tension\nThen cut 3 threads of about 25-30 cm. At the end of each thread a multiple knot is required. The assembly should ideally also be done with a nylon thread Ø 0.35mm, as the widths of the fixing slits in the base are designed for this.\nStart with the 3 threads and guide them through the suction cups with the holes. It will be a bit fiddly now. It may be that the small holes on the virus are blocked by supporting material. Normally it is sufficient to pierce them with a sewing needle.\nPlace the model with the bottom side facing up on the virus half. Then pull the threads through the corresponding holes in the base At first just clamp the strings. Then you can start with the adjustment. Do not tighten the threads too much, otherwise the half rings could deform. So when the strings are slightly tightened, socket and virus half are aligned horizontally, then you can secure the strings.\nStep 5: Final\nFinally, glue the upper half of the virus to its underside. There is a mark on each half of the virus for the correct gluing of the two halves. These must lie on top of each other when assembling.\nHurray! That's it! … the virus is floating!\nI hope that I did not forget anything in my description. If you have any questions please contact me!", "259" ], [ "Pen Stand - 3D Printed\nIntroduction: Pen Stand - 3D Printed\nThis writing utensil container does not, as is generally the case, simply stand on the bottom of a desk top ... this container is held by a hand. The container is inclined forward and appears to offer its \"services\" to its user.\nIt is assembled from 3 printable parts and 4 screws.\nThe container is divided into two parts. The left side is for pencils and pens, the right part for small items like erasers, paperclips etc.\nAfter publishing, it occurred to me that dividing the left side into top and bottom halves might be useful. Therefore there is optional a 2nd container variant (Penstand_container V.2.stl).\nDimensions:\n* H 175 mm\n* Container Ø 100 mm\n* Base Ø 120 mm\nFiles to print:\n* PenStand_container.stl\n* (PenStand_container V.2.stl)\n* PenStand_base.stl\n* PenStand_hand.stl\nPrint Settings\n* Printer brand: Prusa\n* Printer: MK3S / Mini\n* Supports: No\n* Resolution: 0,2\n* Infill: 10% except: hand 30%\n* Filament brand: Prusa; Geetech\n* Filament color: Galaxy Black; Silky silver\n* Filament material: PLA\nRemark: As all parts are designed to fit very precisely, it may happen that you have to rework one or the other part a bit with sandpaper and/or cutter due to different dimensional accuracy of the printers and the different behavior of the filaments.\nSupplies\nFor this project you will need:\n* 2 self-tapping screws Ø 3 x 25mm\n* 1 screw Ø m 3 x 16mm plus matching nut or Ø m 2.5 x 12mm plus matching nut\n* 1 self-tapping screw Ø 2,9x 9,5mm\n* 2 small washers\n* Phillips screwdriver\n* Small screwdriver\n* piercer\n* Sandpaper\nStep 1: Attach Hand to Base\nTo attach the hand to the base you need:\n* PenStand_base.stl\n* PenStand_hand.st\n* 2 self-tapping screws Ø 3 x 25mm\n* Phillips screwdriver\nStep 2: Attach Container to Fingers\nTo attach the container to the hand you need:\n* Base with mounted hand\n* PenStand_.container.stl\n* 1 screw Ø m3 x 16mm plus matching nut or Ø m 2.5 x 12mm plus matching nut\n* 1 self-tapping screw Ø 2,9x 9,5mm\n* 2 small washers\n* Needle nose pliers or a long pair of tweezers\n* Phillips screwdriver\n* Piercer\nIf the holes are a bit narrow, you can carefully widen them a bit with a piercer.", "858" ], [ "You have to be especially careful with the fingers, because if you use too much force, a finger can break off.\nFirst attach the container to the thumb. Then you can attach it to the ring finger. Tighten the screw carefully and not too tightly. The PLA material can not stand much!\nI recommend that you use the smaller screw for attaching the container to the ring finger (even if it only just fits), as too much manipulation of the finger hole can result in breakage.\nIf you take the smaller screw (Ø m 2.5 x 12mm), you can't use a washer from the inside, because the screw can't take the nut anymore.\nStep 3: Done!\nI hope you didn't or won't have any problems assembling it.\nAs for the weight load, I'm afraid I can't give you any specifics. But as long as you don't fill the container with lead, there shouldn't be any problems. I filled it completely with pens, pencils and a pair of scissors and the tender lady's hand carried it.", "320" ] ]

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[ [ "Pet insurance for my cat\nHi! I currently have lemonade pet insurance for my cat she's 7 months old right now. I had enrolled her when she was a kitten (8 weeks old) but I've been looking at other insurance companies like Trupanion and spot and I was thinking on switching bc I noticed that they cover more things like dental. What would be the best way to switch since she's still young right now and has only had one vet appointment to get all her vaccines and vet said she was fine. Thank you", "589" ], [ "Questions regarding Pet Insurance\nHey everyone, I have some questions regarding pet insurance and how it works. I'm a total newbie when it comes to this kind of stuff. Here's my situation:\nI have a 5 year old cat that I have had since he was 6 weeks. I got health insurance right when I adopted him from 24petwatch to cover up to $3k with a $250 deductible and 20% copay.", "589" ], [ "My monthly is $31 right now, it used to be like $22 when I first started. His current plan coverage is May 2023 to May 2024.\nMy cat had surgery 2 weeks ago after swallowing a ribbon and getting clogged with furballs. The first vet (vet 1) I brought him to for the emergency visit charged me $2500 over 2 nights and recommended that I transfer him to another bigger animal hospital for an ultrasound as they couldn't pinpoint the blockage. So I went to this other hospital (vet 2) and paid $7k for the ultrasound + surgery + 3 night hospitalization.\nRegarding my claims, should I submit all the bills from vet 1 and 2 and then keep his current plan? I'm wondering if I should submit just the claims from vet 1 to not have my premiums skyrocket next year (I'm assuming they would skyrocket) if I were to claim a $7k surgery and only get $3k of it covered?\nAfter filing the claims and maxing out the coverage for this current plan, is there an option to cancel and start a new plan? I'm not sure how all this works and if I can even do that.\n​\nThank you!", "589" ], [ "What to do with pet insurance moving forward?\nHey everyone, I have a 5 year old cat that had surgery last month to have a toy removed and I submitted a claim and got covered for my full policy coverage (20% copay, coverd up to 3k). My cats plan goes from may 2023 to may 2024. Essentially I've maxed out the coverage and won't be able to get reimbursed anymore and will still be paying the monthly premium.\nWhat are my options? I called them (24petwatch) and they said they can't upgrade me to one of the higher coverage plans (I think there's a 5k and 7k) and they said they don't recommend I cancel. If I cancel and try to make a new plan with them or another insurer, hat happens?\nThanks!", "589" ], [ "My kitten got fleas help! :(\nHi, I have a kitten that's 5 and a half months old now. I noticed a flea in my bedroom where she stays with me all the time and I combed her out and saw flea dirt :( so I went to the vet to get some topical flea treatment. I put one dose on her and will continue to be putting it on her monthly.", "664" ], [ "My room is all carpet and I've been vacuuming as much as I could with my full time job I'm exhausted. I want to call pest control bc that would be my last resort. I also bought some food grade diemtoeous earth but don't know the best way to use it. Any times from anyone?", "502" ], [ "My cat is rapidly losing weight\nMy 1 year old calico kitty is losing weight, she's my world and I'm really anxious. My family and I are tight on money right now so I have to wait another week until I can get my paycheck to get her to a vet to check her out.\nShe went from 9 pounds to 7.8 over the past 2 months and idk what to do. I work with dogs and other cats so I'm nervous I brought something home.", "176" ], [ "She's picky but I might try to bring home high calorie food but besides that what else can I do in the meantime to keep her from losing more weight? She's now losing 0.1 pounds a day and I'm so nervous she's never been this light before. I've been giving her doxycycline that my mom gave to me since my mom's friend is a vet. She hates it since it tastes gross but it's not helping. What else can I do for her?", "601" ], [ "Moving out\nI’m moving out of my parents home for the first time in the upcoming weeks. The problem is my little kitty <PERSON>. I went and got <PERSON> a little after COVID for the family with my mom at an animal shelter. Ever since we first met her she had such a loving and different personality that we had to take her home that day. She’s almost 2 now and is truly a one of a kind kitty. She’s never hissed at us unless in a really stressful situation nor does she do things maliciously.", "679" ], [ "She is very vocal and likes to do things like fetch and stuff. I like to think of her as half dog half cat. Anyways whenever I think about having to leave and not bring her with me I get very upset. My mom and older brother are also very attached to the cat and I don’t want to take her away from a place where she has more company and people. She is also very close to my mother so I know she would get the company she needs. I guess I’m asking for peoples personal experiences or if I should get another kitty etc etc. Thank you :))", "679" ], [ "My cat is pissing on all my bfs things\nI have a 3 yr old cat named <PERSON> and I refuse her off the freeway when she was a baby and she is really scared of everything except me. Anyways I just moved in with my bf and we had a baby and chips been peeing on bfs blankets and pillow and clothes and it's getting rlly bad now so idk if she's having a urinary tract infection, she doesn't like the new litter or she's just angry at him. Also I can't even afford to take her to vet anytime soon so I'm kinda stressed about the thought of her having a UTI :/ anyways tell me what u think about this anything helps", "311" ], [ "My cat drools a lot\nHey I have a punch faced Persian, she’s around 17 months old. For the past couple of months we’ve noticed that she’s been drooling every 3rd/4th day. Sometimes she won’t drool at all for a week or two but it always comes back.", "664" ], [ "She also sometimes doesn’t eat much (although she’s always been a picky eater). I have a younger cat that’s around 5 months old and she’s sooo playful but the older one doesn’t even play with her. My sister thinks that her breathing rate is always on the faster side too. Any help would be appreciated, I’m desperate to find out what’s wrong with my baby!!! Thank you in advance!!", "664" ] ]

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[ [ "Cardboard Ambulance\nIntroduction: Cardboard Ambulance\nI was in the hospital with a very bad case of covid from Sept 26, 2021 until Jan 25th 2022. Almost 5 months I was on a ventilator and given up to die three times. While in there once I came out of a 30 day induced coma and gained use of my hands again I began doing drawings which my nurses enjoyed so much they hung them up in the hospital and made copies of them at physical therapy. I told them that once I got able to I would do a craft project for them and send it up there. So April I started on it and finished it up just recently towards end of June. I think they will enjoy it as well.\nSupplies\nCardboard, hole punch, craft foam, crafting wire, toothpicks, acrylic paints, thin plastic sheets, hot glue, elmers glue, super glue, pencil, scissors, knife, paint and gel pens.\nStep 1: Cutting Out the Basic Structure.\nI began by gathering up some cardboard and sketching the side panels out to the desired shape and size using hot glue to secure everything in place. Then I put a few coats of acrylic craft paint on and cut the wheels out to the desired size.\nStep 2: Making the Wheels and Mounting Them.\nNext after getting the basic body structure and frame I cut the wheels out of cardboard. The inner hub which supports the wheel via toothpicks I used a hole punch to fit the wooden axle through. After trimming the toothpick spokes I used a generous amount of elmers glue all around the spokes and placed a rubber band around them.", "644" ], [ "Once dry I painted the tires black and the wheels same color as the body. Some of the other stuff I worked on while waiting for glue to dry is windshield, dash, headlights and roof panels.\nStep 3: Making the Fenders, Running Boards, Spare Tire & Mount, Etc...\nNow that I have the wheels mounted I start working on the fenders and running boards. Once finished I put several coats of acrylic paint letting the base color dry before adding the black and gold trim using gel and paint pens. I also did lots of little finishing details such as the instrument cluster which I use a toothpick to paint the small numbers and details on before putting a plastic sheet over it to give it a more realistic look. I make the steering wheel and shifter and all the other little details you can see in the final pictures and video.\nStep 4: Complete With Video\nSince this needs to be handled carefully I secured it inside a display case as you can see in video. I ordered some little brass custom engraved nameplates with some information so it will present itself well. Turned out pretty much how I had envisioned it which is rare for something made from scratch and on the fly process. I already have an idea of the theme for my next one. Hope you enjoyed.", "959" ], [ "Custom Off Road Rear Bumper With Hitch\nIntroduction: Custom Off Road Rear Bumper With Hitch\nAfter installing a lift kit on my truck and testing it out in Moab I was quick to discover my truck's main weakness at off roading: bumper clearance, specifically the rear hitch. It scraped across several bits of slickrock and once when rolling over a ledge I smashed the hell out of my trailer wiring socket.\nSo on the drive home I started planning a bumper build that would clear up the back end of the truck by incorporating the hitch receiver into the center of the bumper, and also allow for extras like led lights, recovery points and backup camera. I got inspiration from other builds and tutorials, which I'll link to at the end.\nI wanted it to have a nice clean look that would hide all the wiring, so I decided to go with a piece of 5 x 3\" rectangular steel at 3/16\" thickness for the main bumper. To mount that to the frame I went with 3 x 3\" angle iron at 1/4\" thickness. I purchased the recovery points from Amazon and got a couple extra pieces from a local scrap yard, including the 2-1/2\" hitch receiver.\nI should mention that I'm an intermediate welder at best, and have no certifications. I learned everything from YouTube and Instructables after getting a cheap Harbor Freight flux core welder and played around with small projects, but all the welding for this bumper was done at a local maker space using a nice Miller MIG welder. Then last year I got a job as a parks maintenance worker and have been welding a lot of 4x4 and 6x6 steel fence posts. Between that and help from my coworkers I built up my confidence enough to tackle this bumper project. As you'll see from my welds I still have plenty room for improvement, and it took a lot of grinding to clean things up but I'm incredibly happy with the result. I've since done two cross country road trips towing my teardrop trailer with no issues.\nStep 1: Mounting Brackets & Recovery Points\nThis was built for an 07 Nissan Frontier, but could be adapted for about any vehicle. After removing the old bumper and hitch you can get a good look at where the bumper mounts to the frame. You might be able to reuse the original mounts depending on their condition but I decided to go with new angle iron that can pass completely through the new bumper so I can weld it on both sides.\nI held a piece of cardboard up against the original mounting bracket, where it attaches to the frame then traced it and the 3 holes for the bolts. Using this as a template I marked the holes on the new 3x3\" angle iron and using a drill press, started with pilot holes and moved up to a 3/4\" bit.", "215" ], [ "This gave me a little wiggle room to adjust the mounting brackets on the truck, making them level. I put the new bumper on a floor jack and raised it into position to see where the mounting brackets would line up. Since my driveway isn't perfectly level I put a 2x4 across the bed and did my best to match that slight slope to the bumper, and once in position against the ends of the brackets I marked their location. The 5x3\" bumper I bought was about 12\" longer than the width of my truck so I had plenty of room to spare but I still did my best to center it. Once I had the bumper on my work bench I made sure the marks I'd made were square and an equal distance from the edge of the bumper before getting a final trace of the angle iron. Back to the drill press for 3 holes on each side using a 5/16\" bit that was just barely long enough to pass all the way through the 3\" width of the bumper. I wouldn't trust myself to do this with a hand drill since it needs to be perfectly straight. I then used a jigsaw with metal cutting blade to connect the three holes on each side. I started with a cheaper Craftsman jigsaw that was taking forever and then invested in a much stronger Bosch saw with quality blades that in comparison, cut like butter. This is the main reason I went with 3/16\" instead of 1/4\" steel since I knew I had a lot of cutting to do and I don't have access to a plasma cutter. Be sure to use a cutting oil, added often as you drill and cut; this will help your blades last longer and help you cut faster. As you can see my cuts weren't perfect but I got the brackets to slide through both sides of the bumper, extending about an inch farther than needed, allowing me to choose how far from the truck body I wanted the bumper. Quick note: when choosing the final height of the bumper be sure to check your clearance while the tailgate is open.", "933" ], [ "TARS Robot From Interstellar - Steel Action Figure - No Welding\nIntroduction: TARS Robot From Interstellar - Steel Action Figure - No Welding\nMy favorite character from Interstellar, TARS the surplus military ex-Marine robot. Initially I thought it was the dumbest design for a 'military' robot that I had ever seen on a movie screen. Then the voice actor started to win me over, his sarcastic comic relief was quite charming, it was strange how much humanity he was able to convey. Then they show what the robot is capable of and all of its various configurations which really caught me by surprise, I loved it! After the movie I took a semi deep-dive in to all things TARS, I assumed the majority of it was CGI but learned that there were a ton of practical effects for the movie. Scenes I thought were 100% CGI where in fact a mix of both. My hats off to the amazing prop builders it is a great piece and a wonderful character. Also, huge shout out to <PERSON> who was the puppeteer for TARS; I've always been a big fan of his ever since I first saw him on Sesame Street.\nSupplies\n1/2-inch Square Steel Tube\n3/8-inch Solid Square Steel Bar\n1/8-inch Steel Rod\n1/8\" x 3/8\" x 5/32\" Sealed Z2 Lever Bearings\nHacksaw or Portable Bandsaw\nRuler\nFine Point Sharpie Marker\nGold Paint Marker - Fine Tip\nBlack Spray Paint\n1x30 Belt Sander or Files\n4x36 Belt Sander\nSandpaper 220 grit - 2000 grit\nBlue Dykem\nCenter Punch\nHammer\nCalipers\nDrill Press\nDrill Bits ranging from 1/8 inch to 3/8 inch\nBlue Tape\nExacto Knife\nSuper Glue\nAcetone\nPaper Towels\nStep 1:\nI decided that TARS should be about 4 inches tall, it seemed to look the most proportional considering that I was using 1/2-inch square tube to make the pieces. I used my portable bandsaw table to cut the pieces. You could use a hacksaw and a clamp or bench vice but it will just take longer.\nStep 2:\nAll the cut pieces were not the exact same length so I used my 1x30 belt sander to sand them to the correct length. First, I found the shortest of the pieces and then sanded the rest to match that one. I would just sand a little at a time until I got to the right length.", "215" ], [ "This also cleaned up all the cut edges.\nStep 3:\nNext, I took the pieces over to my 4x36 inch belt sander and sanded all the sides smooth to 120 grit. This step could be done my hand sanding as well.\nStep 4:\nI needed to drill holes for the bearings so I used some layout fluid and marked the centers of all the pieces. I used a center punch and hammer to mark the drilling point on each piece.\nStep 5:\nThe final hole has to be 3/8 inch in diameter in order to fit the bearings. My drill press could probably drill a 3/8 hole through the steel but I decided to start by first drilling a 1/8' hole and then stepping up the drill sizes, drilling slightly larger holes until I got to the 3/8 inch drill bit. I figured this would give me a more accurate and cleaner hole.\nRemember that the two outer pieces of TARS only get one hole in one wall and the two center pieces get drilled all the way through from one side to the other.\nStep 6:\nThe square tubes have a slight lip (its a weld seam I believe) on the inside that will interfere with the next operation of the build so these have to be filed down. You don't have to file down the entire length of the seam, just a few millimeters will be enough. You can use a file or if you have a Dremel that will work too.\nStep 7:\nWith the inside seam filed down you can now insert your 3/8 inch steel bar in to tube. I slid it in as far as it would go, in my case about 1/2 inch. I used a fine tip Sharpie to mark the square bar.\nStep 8:\nI took the square bar over to my portable bandsaw table and cut off the small piece. After it cooled, I checked the fit inside the square tube. It sat just proud of being flush which was perfect because I could use my hammer to hammer it in to place getting a nice and secure friction fit.\nStep 9:\nNext, I took the capped off square tube and sand it flush, this helped clean up the cut marks from the bandsaw. I repeated this process 7 more times for the remaining pieces.", "599" ], [ "How I Made <PERSON> (<PERSON>) Helmet\nIntroduction: How I Made <PERSON> (<PERSON>) Helmet\nHi world!! I've decided to do this <PERSON> helmet as my first Instructable since this is the project that introduced me to Instructables a million years ago :] Let's get to it.\nVideo Part 1, Part 2, Part 3\nSupplies\nHelmet:\n1.75mm PLA Filament - 1kg Spool (2.2 lbs)\nEpoxy\nBondo\nBondo Putty\nZip ties\nWet/Dry sanding sheets assortment pack\n6in. clamps\nVisor:\n1” x 4” x 8’ pine board (frame)\n2’ x 2’ BCX plywood (bottom of the box)\n48” x 24” Pegboard (top of the box)\nWood glue\nBig clamps\nPlastic wood\nFoil tape\nStaple gun\nHole saw\nJig Saw\nBucket vacuum (or any vacuum)\nThe visor plastic: Clear Polyethylene Terephthlate Glycol-Modified Sheet, 0.03\" Thickness, 24\" Width, 24\"\nLens Tint\nClear enamel\nElectronics:\nDragon Board 410c\nSensor Mezzanine Board\nAddressable WS2812B 5V RGB LEDs\nPotentiometer\nMicrophone\nVoltage Regulator LM2596\nSpeaker USB audio adapter\n12V battery pack\nDetails:\nWire rainbow ribbon\nOld school button caps (from my local electronics shop)\nStep 1: Start 3-D Printing!\nThere are 58 parts to print (including the visor) and each part took me about 2.5 hours on average to print. So start printing! I used @bendiger’s files on Thingyverse.\nI started with the visor prints since those were the bigger prints and also to get started on the visor. @bendinger made it so it is super easy to assemble with zip ties. I did have to add tons of support to print the parts and the support messed up the zip tie holes, so I had to finish those with a dremel to make the holes.\nOnce I had all the visor and helmet prints I put them together with zip ties, added a bit of epoxy to bind all the parts together and make it sturdier. I had to hold the parts together with clamps overnight to allow the epoxy to cure. I sanded the epoxy imperfections with the dremel.\nStep 2: Bondo, Sanding, and Priming (or Making the Helmet Super Smooth)\nI put a thin layer of Bondo on the visor and helmet to hide the print lines and make them super smooth. Be careful to not cake the Bondo, by applying a thin layer you are making sure you stay true to the shape of your helmet and visor and also you are saving yourself a lot of sanding time.\nI tried using a flexible putty knife to apply and scrape off the Bondo, but it was very hard to do this. The easiest way I could apply the bondo was with my fingers.", "485" ], [ "Do it with gloves and at your own risk.. It cures very fast, so I made small batches and applied by sections. Once the helmet and visor were covered and the bondo had cured, I sanded starting with the lowest grit I had and moved up until it was smooth.\nWhen I thought it was completely smooth I primed it, but that is when I noticed all the imperfections. So I used Bondo putty to fill all the dips and started sanding again. This took about 2 weeks of sanding almost every day.\nI decided to paint the helmet black since it is my favorite color and I knew that I would not be able to achieve the original chromed gold look with the budget and tools I had at home.\nStep 3: Make a Vacuum Forming Rig for the Visor\nTo make the vacuum forming rig I made a box with holes on the top and attached a vacuum to it.\nI measured my kitchen oven as a baseline since I was going to use that to heat the plastic. Keep good ventilation around you and make sure you don’t melt your plastic inside the oven (like I did).\nI cut the plywood and board to make a box with no top. I used wood glue to put them together, clamped and waited 24 hours. I added plastic wood to the inside to make sure it was sealed and also taped it with foil tape on the outside. You need to make sure it is completely sealed so the vacuum actually works.\nI made a hole on the side of the box to fit the vacuum hose and glued a peg board on top of the box.", "959" ], [ "How to Change a Broken Tail Light Bulb in a Ford F150\nIntroduction: How to Change a Broken Tail Light Bulb in a Ford F150\nWhether your tail light is physically broken, burnt out, or just plain stopped working, this simple repair should fix your issue. As with all automotive repair and especially any repairs to electrical components always read the service and owner manuals that came with your vehicle before attempting any repair for the proper procedures. Always make sure your vehicle is turned fully off before performing any electrical/lightning system repair.\nStep 1: Supplies\nFor this repair you'll need:\n- 5/16\" socket & Socket Wrench (just a normal 5/16\" wrench will work just fine if that is what you have)\n- Paper towels (for drying any moisture and wiping away grime)\n- New bulb\nStep 2: Removing the Mounting Bolts\nUsing the socket and wrench loosen the two bolts holding the tail light in place. On this make and model of vehicle they are accessible by lowering the tail gate.\nStep 3: Pull the Tail Light Off\nOnce the the two bolts have been removed the tail light assembly can be pulled off. lightly pull the assembly straight out of the housing. There are two clip at the back of the housing that will disconnect allowing you to pull the assembly free. Make sure to not break these clips as they're needed for reassembly.\nStep 4: Removing the Connector From the Tail Light\nOnce the Tail light assembly is pulled out of the housing and is off the vehicle, and in order to make changing the bulb easier, remove the connector that connects the wiring of the vehicle to the tail light assembly. Remove the connector by pressing into the clip and gently pulling the connector out.\nStep 5: Removing the Broken Bulb\nOnce you have the tail light assembly removed and disconnected, its time to remove the broken bulb. locate whether the broken bulb is the lower, upper, or central bulb.", "320" ], [ "After determining which bulb is broken twist the bulb connector counter clockwise (or opposite the marked \"lock\" direction) and pull out the connector and bulb. Once the connector is free, remove the bulb. In this case my bulb was stuck in the connector so I had to carefully use pliers to pull it out without further breaking the glass.\nStep 6: Wiping Down the Tail Light\nWipe down the connector and area around the hole for the bulb to remove any moisture or dust and grime before inserting the new bulb.\nStep 7: Installing the New Bulb\nEnsure that the new bulb is the correct bulb for your vehicle by consulting the owner manual. Insert the new bulb in to the connector and then insert the connector back in the hole and twist to lock.\nStep 8: Reinstalling the Assembly\nAfter installing the new bulb, gently reconnect the wiring connector back into the tail light assembly. Make sure the connector is on the same way it was when you took it off and make sure that it clicks securely. Line the two clips at the back of the tail light with the two clip holes in the housing. Click them in place by pushing the light back into the housing.\nStep 9: Tighten the Bolts\nPut the two bolts back into the bolt holes and tighten snugly but not too tight to prevent damage.\nStep 10: Finished!\nYou're done! Just like that your bulb is replaced and the tail light functions as normal again. Properly dispose of the old bulb and take care since it is glass. Lastly enjoy once again having a working tail light!", "320" ], [ "Squirtle Squad Sunglasses From Pokémon\nIntroduction: Squirtle Squad Sunglasses From Pokémon\nI have wanted a pair of Squirtle Squad Sunglasses ever since I saw the \"Here comes the Squirtle Squad\" episode of Pokémon as a kid. Now as a fully grown adult I finally made myself a pair!\nThis project was a little intimidating at first as I have never built a pair of sunglasses before. Once I broke the process down into individual steps, they were fairly easy to make and really fun too.\nUsing a few basic tools found in most small garage workshops, I will show you how to build a pair of Squirtle Squad Sunglasses of your very own!\nSupplies\n1/8th inch Clear Acrylic\nAutomotive Window Tint Film 5% Rating\nSuper 77 Spray Adhesive\ne6000 Adhesive\n220 Grit Sandpaper\n2000 Grit Sandpaper\nXacto Knife\nPainter's Tape\nDonor Pair of Sunglasses\nTea Light Candle or Lighter\nPolishing Compound\nMicrofiber Towel\nHard Squeegee or Old Credit Card\nSoapy Water\nStep 1: Attaching the Template and Cutting to Size\nI start this project by attaching a copy of my template to a piece of 1/8th inch clear acrylic using Super 77 Spray Adhesive. I can fit two sunglasses on one sheet of paper. Using my bandsaw I separate the pieces and save one for a future build. The 3/4 inch resaw blade on my bandsaw tends to chip the acrylic so I stay a good distance away from the line.\nStep 2: Sanding to Shape\nUsing my combination belt and disc sander I smooth out the rough cut left behind by the band saw and bring the shape down to the line. Using my spindle sander, I sand all the spots my belt sander couldn't reach. I give the piece it's final sanding by hand using 220 grit sandpaper. Once the piece is completely sanded I can remove the protective film and the template.\n**Pro Tip**\nAdding a small round over to the nose portion of the sunglasses with some sandpaper or a small file may make them more comfortable to wear for longer periods of time.\nStep 3: Harvesting the Hardware\nI harvested all of the hardware that I need from a pair of sunglasses I bought at a dollar store. I start by removing the temple pieces from the hinge mechanism. Using the heat from a candle, I soften the plastic around the hinge, making it much easier to remove.\nThe protruding parts on the bottom of the hinge won't allow it to lay flat on the lens. In order to fix this I need to grind the bottom flat.", "401" ], [ "My disc sander removed the majority of the material and I cleaned up the rest using a file.\nStep 4: Attaching the Hinges to the Lens\nTo get the hinge placement on the lens in the correct location I lay the lens down on the template and secure it with tape so that it won't shift around. I apply a small dab of e6000 Adhesive to the bottom of the hinges and attach them to the lens. The e6000 has a fairly long working time so I can take my time adjusting the hinge placement to get them just right. I use a toothpick to clean up any glue squeeze out. The e6000 was allowed to cure for 24 hours before moving onto the next step.\n**Note**\nSomething I had overlooked when I sanded the acrylic was that a burr had formed along the edge. This burr will interfere with the next step if left on the lens. To fix this I knocked it down with a few swipes of a razor blade.\nStep 5: Giving These Shades Their Shade\nI need a clean work surface for this step so I lay out a sheet of acrylic. You can skip this if your work surface is clean from any dust or debris, but because I am working in a dusty workshop I found it to be useful.\nTo give these shades their shade, I'm using automotive window tint film. I used a tint rated at 5% which means that it blocks out 95% of all light and blocks UV rays.\nI measure out how much tint I need, plus about an inch or so extra on each side and cut it to length. I remove the clear protective sheet from the back of the film and spray the film and the lens with soapy water. With both parts wet I applied the film to the lens. Starting from the center, I squeegee out any air bubbles and excess water.\n**Pro Tip**\nThe hinges prevent the lens from laying flat. Using a folded microfiber towel ensures that the lens remains straight, making the squeegeeing process easier.\nStep 6: Trimming the Tint to Final Size\nWith all the excess water removed, I trimmed the window tint film to final size using an Xacto knife.", "626" ], [ "How to Make a Cheap Spotlight With Telescoping Stand From a Curtain Rod\nIntroduction: How to Make a Cheap Spotlight With Telescoping Stand From a Curtain Rod\nI made this spotlight so that I could make my YouTube videos using a single light source. When I film I like to isolate the subject as much as I can so that the viewer has no choice but to focus on what is in frame. When I first started making YouTube videos I would just film in my garage with the garage lights on which was fine but you could see all the miscellaneous items in the background. I felt this was distracting so I started trying to film with just one light source. This worked okay but there was still a lot of light bleed in the background. The miscellaneous junk in the background could still be seen just in dimmer light. So I came up with this idea to make a spot light that could be moved around that wouldn't take up a large foot print like a tripod. This is a fairly inexpensive build since I used an old curtain rod that I had in my attic and the rest of the materials aren't very expensive.\nSupplies\nRound Curtain Rod\n3 inch screws\nDrill w/drill bits and drivers\n1/4\"-20 Tap and Drill\n1/4\"-20 Screw with Knob\n1/2\" screws\nScrap Wood 12\"x12\"\n5 gallon Bucket\n9 quart Bucket\nGarden Trowel\n1 60lb. Bag Cement\nSpring Clamps\nLevel\nGloves\nClamped Work Light\nVise\nWork Bench\nHammer\nAluminum Flashing\nBlue Tape\nBlack Spray Paint\nYellow Spray Paint\nSharpie Marker\nRuler or Straight Edge\nPliers\nLight Bulb\nPPE\nStep 1:\nFor the stand I used an old curtain rod that I had in my attic that could be expanded in length, one rod fits inside of the other making adjustable by sliding it in and out. I first drilled several pilot holes in the bottom of the largest of the two rods we will call this the \"lower rod\" of the stand. Then I partially screwed in the screws. These are just randomly spaced around the bottom these will help the cement attach securely to the rod. Basically you want to create something for the cement to grab on too. The screw length isn't super important as long as its at least an inch long. Screw type doesn't matter either as you can see in the last pic there are a couple of types of screws that I used for this part.\nStep 2:\nOn the same lower I drilled and tapped a 1/4\"-20 hole. This will be for the adjustment knob. This did eventually fail after a lot of usage.", "582" ], [ "The thin wall of the curtain rod just isn't strong enough to take repeated use. Eventually I ended up welding a small 1/4\"-20 nut over the hole that could take the abuse. If you don't have a welder you can probably get away with using some 2 part Metal Epoxy like JB Weld to secure a nut to the rod. I also bought a better knob as the small one I had originally used was difficult to tighten due to its small size, I couldn't get much leverage resulting in loose rods, this actual knob works much better.\nStep 3:\nIn order for the rod to sit straight up and down I took a piece of 1/4\" scrap plywood and drilled a hole the same diameter as the rod. This scrap piece will help make sure the rod sits vertically while the cement dries this will make more sense in a later step.\nStep 4:\nNext I mixed up some cement in a 5 gallon bucket and filled the 9 quart bucket with the lower rod held in place.\nStep 5:\nNext I slid my scrap piece of plywood over the lower rod and let it sit on the top of the 9 qt. bucket. I checked it for square with my level and used some spring clamps to secure the plywood in place. This took a little bit of adjustment but eventually I was able to get it pretty close to vertical. I let cement cure overnight.\nStep 6:\nOn the smaller rod, the upper rod, I taped off a 3-4 inch section and painted it yellow. This will serve as a height indicator of sorts. When I am raising the upper rod and see the yellow part I will know to stop so that I don't pull the upper rod completely out of the lower rod. Its basically my max height adjustment indicator.\nStep 7:\nThe first pic shows my setup. In the second and third pics you can see the up and down adjustment of the stand. The stand worked great and was easy to adjust. The bucket was not very large so it didn't take up a large footprint and couldn't be kicked over by accident either. Overall I was happy with the stand. The light on the other hand was a whole other story.", "220" ], [ "Goosebumps Witch\nIntroduction: Goosebumps Witch\nEver since I saw the witches in the Goosebumps 2 Movie, I wanted to make one for my Halloween yard display. Here is the result.\nSupplies\n3D printer or printing service\n3D Pen for details\nPVC pipe\nSpray Foam\nPool noodles\nMannequin Form\nGreen String lights\nGlue\nElectrical Tape\nScrews\nStep 1: 3D Files\nI searched some of the free 3D file sites for files I would need for the project. I would open them in Meshmixer to adapted them for my use and easy printing. Some were cut into multiple pieces to reduce the amount of support needed while printing and to make it easier to assemble. I designed the cone and cone tab to fit the shape of the costume hat. The hand for holding the broom was adjusted and separated from the thumb and a peg was added so I could fit it around the shaft. Both hands had a 33.75mm slot added into the arm to accept the PVC pipe used for the frame. I found two different joints to print. A ball joint for the shoulder and simple locking joint for the elbow.\nStep 2: Printing the Pieces and Adding Detail\nI am lucky enough to have my own 3D printer. These range from a few hundred to thousands of dollars. Everything I printed can be done on an inexpensive printer. They really come in handy for making anything. I used a PETG filament for all of the witch parts. It has a higher temperature melting point so it does very well outdoors in the Florida sun. The hands were printed in black and the pumpkin head was made in translucent with a gyroid infill. Gyroid pattern gives it an organic look for the light to shine through. The black pattern on the outside of the pumpkin was added by hand using a 3D pen. These are very cheap and come in handy for detail work and glueing parts together using the same filament. After the head parts were glued together, the top and neck were painted black. The cone for the hat was printed in vase mode and secured to the top using tabs I printed and screws.\nStep 3: Making the Body\nThe body is the easiest thing to make. A few years ago I purchased mannequin forms to use as molds for making the bodies of my Zombie props.", "286" ], [ "The frame is glued together using PVC glue and the 3D parts are glued with Gorilla Glue and secured with screws for added strength. The inside is wiped down with furniture wax as a release agent and spray foam is applied around a PVC frame. I use old styrofoam to reduce the amount of spray foam needed. Once the front it cured I pile up more spray foam to add the back of the body. I don't have a mold for this so I shave off any extra foam with a long blade utility knife. Notice the center PVC pipe extends from top to bottom. This gives me a channel for the electrical cord to pass through. Make sure to clamp the frame to the front of the form while the foam expands to hold it into position.\nStep 4: Final Assembly\nWhen all the foam is dry and cured I add the PVC arms and elbow joints. These are cut to length using the costume as a reference. The arms are not glued together. I use screws so I can position them the way I want and I can take them apart for storage. I cut some pool noodles and tape them around the pipe using electrical tape. This gives the arms more weight to fill out the sleeves. The head is filled with twinkle lights around an old plastic skull and the top with cone is secured. Final thing is to measure the length of pipe needed for the legs so the dress just touches the ground.\nStep 5: She Needs a Broom\nI save branches from the trees I trim during hurricane season. These come in handy. I used an old branch from a avocado tree for the broom handle and various small branches for the bottom. These are wrapped with electrical tape and covered with twine for a rustic look. This is were the separate thumb helps to fit the branch into the hand. I drive pipes into the ground and slide the PVC legs over them. DONE!\nI hope you enjoy the post and that it inspires you to make your own.", "644" ] ]

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[ [ "Bocas Lit Fest crowdsources ‘100 Caribbean books that made us’ · Global Voices\nScreenshot of Bocas Lit Fest's Facebook post promoting its “100 Caribbean Books that Made Us” initiative.\nThe Bocas Lit Fest, which has emerged not only as the premier Caribbean literary festival but as one of the best in the world, celebrates its tenth anniversary this year. The founders of the Trinidad and Tobago-based festival had planned to mark the occasion in grand style from September 18-20, 2020, but the COVID-19 pandemic has, thus far, forced all events in the lead-up to the festival online — and it remains unclear at this point whether the country's borders will be reopened in time for the carded festival dates.\nOne of the initiatives the festival has taken to keep its audience engaged is its “100 Caribbean books that made us” campaign. Inspired by the BBC’s “100 books that shaped our world,” the challenge asks readers to submit the titles of the Caribbean books that have meant the most to them. <PERSON> makes clear that this “isn’t a competition, but a chance to curate the stories that hold pride of place on your bookshelves and in your hearts.”\nThe campaign, which ended on May 8, 2020, received a robust response on social media channels, via the hashtag #MyCaribbeanLibrary. Some literature fans simply posted their picks in comment threads, while others created their own posts and videos.", "941" ], [ "We'll feature some of the most interesting choices.\nTrinidadian book vlogger <PERSON> kicked things off by explaining how the initiative worked and selecting a few picks of his own:\nMany of the books <PERSON> chose had the shared theme of the inner creating the outer, including <PERSON> “Anna In Between,” in which the heroine learns that “home is not a place, but rather, the people that you love and care for,” and <PERSON> “The Beast of Kukuyo,” a tale about a girl who learns that the true monsters that plague our fears […] are, in fact, the ones that live within us.”\nPoet and blogger <PERSON> also posted a video with his choices:\n<PERSON>'s list was an eclectic one. It included Caribbean literary classics like <PERSON> “The Dragon Can't Dance,” <PERSON> “Growing Up Stupid Under the Union Jack,” which looks at “the coloniality of education and Barbadian social life,” and Jamaican <PERSON> poetry collection, “I Am Becoming My Mother,” which <PERSON> says helped shape him.\nHe also deemed <PERSON> “A Small Place” a “very important piece of work” as “a contestation of space, place [and] power” in the region. As a spoken word poet, Sanatan was also drawn to “The History of the Voice,” by <PERSON>, who believed that poetry, just like Caribbean culture, must be experienced through the region's rich oral tradition.\nAuthor <PERSON> also weighed in, with picks that included Caribbean crime fiction in the form of <PERSON> “The Bone Readers”, and <PERSON> acclaimed novel, “The Dew Breaker”:\n<PERSON> also chose Trinidadian poet <PERSON>'s startling debut, “Everyone Knows I Am a Haunting,” which she calls “poetry that shows us the best and worst of ourselves.”\nAnother Trinidadian poet, <PERSON>, chose Trinidadian writer <PERSON>'s “Aelred’s Sin‬” as a book that had a profound impact:\nLook closely, it is as though <PERSON> has ripped out the spine of <PERSON> “The Name of the Rose,” the yearning root, the bones beneath tender flesh and transplanted the same mood and energy, the same series of baffling yet dazzling antinomies into the heat of the islands— in all senses, across geographies. A book that is bold in its willingness to explore a hidden struggle which, even in all its particulars, manages to be universal. An incredible feat not only of art, but also, in its own way, restitution, justice and song. Bless you, <PERSON>.\nFinally, <PERSON> suggestions stayed firmly in the realm of children's and young adult literature, in order to help mould the Caribbean readers — and writers — of tomorrow:\nThe Bocas Lit Fest is asking us to name the 100 [Caribbean] books that made us.", "117" ], [ "‘Godmother’ of Caribbean literature, <PERSON>, made honorary fellow of Royal Society of Literature · Global Voices\nThe Royal Society of Literature's elected Honorary Fellows 2020. <PERSON>, founder of the NGC Bocas Lit Fest, is in the bottom left-hand corner. Screenshot taken from the Royal Society of Literature's website.\nFor the last 10 years, <PERSON> has been expanding the scope and reach of the NGC Bocas Lit Fest (named for its title sponsor, the National Gas Company of Trinidad and Tobago), now widely considered the Caribbean's premier literary festival, but she's been a reader all her life. Her passion for the region's literature has now earned her an honorary fellowship in the Royal Society of Literature (RSL), which is celebrating its 200th anniversary this year.\nShe first learned about the RSL's intention to make her an honorary fellow back in August, and the plan was for her to travel to the UK for the ceremony in October. However, the COVID-19 pandemic changed everything: London is currently on a Tier 2 (high coronavirus risk category) lockdown, and Trinidad and Tobago's borders remain closed.\nStill, she was invited — as new fellows are each year — to select an eminent writer's pen with which to sign her name in a roll book that dates back to 1820. Her choices included <PERSON>, <PERSON>, <PERSON> and <PERSON>.\n<PERSON>, founder of the NGC Bocas Lit Fest. Image courtesy the festival, used with permission.\nWhenever she makes it to London to sign the register, she plans to use Levy's. “She's a woman, she had a deep connection to the Caribbean, and I met her when she was a judge for the Saga Prize,” she tells me in a telephone interview. The now-defunct Saga Prize was a literary award started by actress <PERSON> to celebrate new, British-born, Black writers.\nThe significance of the honorary RSL fellowship is not lost on <PERSON>.", "941" ], [ "“It's an enormous thing,” she says, “particularly for someone working outside of the metropolis, and working in a way that some may consider peripheral, in Caribbean literature.”\nIt can be argued, however, that Caribbean literature is also huge — and <PERSON> has been an integral part of that journey. <PERSON> is clear about the fact that the recognition does not belong to her alone, but to the festival's many sponsors, and the dedicated team of people who help make the festival a success each year. “This RSL Fellowship is also an honour for Caribbean literature and for the NGC Bocas Lit Fest,” she explains. “They can't ignore us anymore. Caribbean writers are winning prizes, they're getting book deals, and many of those writers give the festival some of the credit for it.”\nPointing out that <PERSON> novel “Love After Love” has just been shortlisted for the Costa First Novel Award and <PERSON> “The Mermaid of Black Conch,” for the Costa Novel Award, that <PERSON> has signed a book deal with <PERSON>, and that <PERSON> “One Year of Ugly” has been optioned by Netflix, <PERSON> says that <PERSON>’ seminars, workshops and master classes have helped create this new generation of regional writers — and build a marketplace to give their writing somewhere to go. Some have even taken to calling themselves “Bocas writers,” because the festival helped them hone their craft.\nAuthors <PERSON> (left) and <PERSON> (right) chat at the 2014 NGC Bocas Lit Fest. Photo courtesy the festival, used with permission.\n“We've always been writing in the Caribbean,” she explains, “but before Bocas, no one had really created a space — at home — with the power to put regional writers on a pathway to the international publishing industry. Where else would you get the likes of <PERSON>, <PERSON>, <PERSON> or <PERSON> to read your stories and give feedback on them?”\nEstablished writers benefit too, as there are always international agents, academics and publishers present at the festival. Accomplished novelists, most of whom are based abroad, get the opportunity to come back home and interact with Caribbean audiences, and the up-and-comers get to run shoulders with their heroes. “Publishing is a touchy-feely business,” <PERSON> says.\nWhen she founded the festival a decade ago, however, did she envision it would reach this far? “We did our thing and people started to notice,” she tells Global Voices.", "216" ], [ "An upcoming British edition of ‘Capitalism and Slavery’ makes news, but the Caribbean has always known the book’s worth · Global Voices\nPhoto of <PERSON> ‘Capitalism and Slavery,’ the ninth printing of the British, <PERSON>, edition (dated 1990), by <PERSON>, used with permission.\n“Capitalism and Slavery,” the published form of <PERSON> doctoral dissertation, famously argues that the decline of the transatlantic slave trade was precipitated, not by the sudden moral enlightenment or conscience of slave owners as the prevailing British narrative claims, but rather, by economics.\n<PERSON>, who later became Trinidad and Tobago's first prime minister, put forward a compelling case for this revolutionary argument in the late 1930s during his time at Oxford University; he described the work as “first, a study in English economic history and second, in West Indian and Negro history […] a study of the contribution of slavery to the development of British capitalism.”\nThe book, light years ahead of its time when it was first published in the United States in 1944, is currently receiving new interest after both the UK Observer and Guardian erroneously claimed this week that after more than 80 years, the groundbreaking work was finally getting a British publisher.\nAs Trinidadian <PERSON> pointed out in a letter to the editor of the Trinidad and Tobago Newsday, however, his copy of the book “states very clearly that it was published by <PERSON> of 105 Great Russell Street, London, in 1964.” Meanwhile, British writer and academic <PERSON> tweeted:\n<PERSON> autobiography puts the idiocy in yesterday’s Observer straight. pic.twitter.com/1D1Nqkhyqv\n— <PERSON> (@bungatuffie) January 24, 2022\nThe Guardian subsequently issued a correction stating that it had amended its headline and original article due to its incorrect claim that Capitalism and Slavery was first published in the UK “in 1966 when a small university press gave it a very limited print run,” noting:\nIt was published in 1964 and then reprinted a number of times; and the André Deutsch publishing house was not a university press.\nNevertheless, the fact that the book is enjoying a resurgence is unsurprising to many in the Caribbean.", "678" ], [ "At the Trinidad and Tobago-based Bocas Lit Fest‘s 2019 event, the year that marked the book's 75th anniversary, there was a discussion about “Capitalism and Slavery” as part of Bocas’ “Big Ideas” segment. The literary festival — arguably the premier such event in the region — credited the book with “chang[ing] the way we understand colonialism, the British Empire, the institution of slavery, and the rationale for Emancipation.”\nThe panel, which was chaired by academic <PERSON>, comprised historians <PERSON> and <PERSON>, as well as writer <PERSON>. Festival director <PERSON> introduced the book as “a work of economic history that's very much based on things like trade statistics […] but that also has a much wider cultural significance because of the arguments it makes [and] the ground it covers, [as well as] how it fits in to our contemporary understanding of our past, but also our present.”\nThe tone of the book might best be reflected by a quotation from <PERSON> himself, which the moderator used to kickstart the discussion:\nThe West Indian historian of the future has a crucial role to play in the education of the West Indian people in their own history, and in the merciless exposure of the shams, the inconsistencies, the prejudices of metropolitan historians.\nPanellist <PERSON>, who praised the book for “giving voice to the voiceless,” made the point early on that “Capitalism and Slavery” is “not about stale facts and history, but the philosophical attempt to understand a particular social phenomenon.”\n<PERSON>, the sole novelist on the panel, acknowledged the ways in which writers often stand on the shoulders of historians like <PERSON>, who once said, “History is the basic science” — which <PERSON> took to mean, “If we don't understand the various forces that have shaped our past, we just cannot possibly understand the present [and therefore] no possibility of shaping the future […] particularly in the Caribbean context, where so much of our history has been corrupted and corroded by others interpreting our lives for us.”\nAdmitting she's never found it an easy book to read, historian <PERSON> said that it is a multi-layered text which at its most basic level says, “This is what the world is like.", "124" ], [ "Barbados-Born Author <PERSON> Remembered as a ‘Pioneering Voice’ · Global Voices\nBarbadian-Canadian author <PERSON> reading at a National Library and Information System Authority (NALIS) event in Trinidad. Photo by <PERSON>, used under a CC BY 2.0 license.\nThe Caribbean literary world is in mourning after learning of the death of Barbadian-Canadian writer <PERSON>. The 81-year-old passed away on Sunday, June 26, 2016.\n<PERSON> left Barbados in the mid-1950s to pursue his tertiary education at the University of Toronto; he became involved in the civil rights movement and began writing, publishing his first novel, The Survivors of the Crossing, in 1964. Through its main protagonist, — a canecutter — the story examined the effects of colonialism and slavery on politics and race relations in a pre-independence Barbados, but <PERSON> was perhaps best known for his novel The Polished Hoe, which won numerous literary accolades, including the Scotiabank Giller Prize (2002), the Commonwealth Writers’ Prize for Best Book Overall and the Trillium Book Award (both in 2003). Five years prior, he was also made a member of the Order of Canada.\nUpon news of his death, tributes began to pour out on social media. Facebook user <PERSON> posted:\nRIP to Literary giant <PERSON> who died today in Toronto. He won many prestigious international awards for his writing. He was brilliant, witty, fearless, an activist, a poet, a humourist, an intellectual, always questioning and challenging the status quo, always holding people to account, sometimes courting controversy but willing to suffer the consequences of his opinions and convictions. He spoke his mind unafraid, he stirred the pot, he wanted us to know our history, to know our country, our culture, to not be ignorant of it, to look at ourselves and to always strive do better. He was widely acclaimed and celebrated but remained himself always. He was a citizen of the world but always belonged to Barbados. He was a proud native son.\nAnother Facebook user, <PERSON>, lamented:\nA huge loss.", "357" ], [ "An important voice not just for Canada and the Caribbean but for the world\nIndeed, Canadian netizens were also proud to claim him:\n<PERSON> wrote his first novel before <PERSON> said “where is here,” before <PERSON>, before <PERSON>. He is a foundational Canadian author.\n— <PERSON> (@paul_barrett) June 26, 2016\nCan't emphasize enough how significant a presence <PERSON> was in Canada's literary firmament in the 1970s. A pioneering voice.\n— <PERSON> (@CBCAdrianH) June 26, 2016\nTrinidadian <PERSON> shared the effect <PERSON>'s writing had on him:\nRIP <PERSON>. His very funny memoirs Pigtails ‘n’ Breadfruit and Growing Up Stupid Under the Union Jack are among my favourite volumes of Caribbean biography.\nOn the heels of the UK's European Union referendum, one Twitter user cheekily recommended the latter of those titles to Britons:\n<PERSON> was an amazing writer, & even penned this guidebook for a whole new post-#Brexit generation in the UK pic.twitter.com/1Xqr7fVJGr\n— <PERSON> (@semimatte) June 26, 2016\nOn the Facebook page Black Canadian Veterans Stories of War, the son of a Barbadian war veteran and poet posted a personal photo of a smiling <PERSON> in a tuxedo, pipe dangling from his mouth, explaining:\nMy dad's friend, author <PERSON> passed away today. Both were born in Barbados and both loved poetry. Sentimemtal shot of Mr. <PERSON>, taken by my dad WWII veteran and Poet…<PERSON>.\nThe Bocas Lit Fest — one of the Caribbean's most well regarded literary festivals — also acknowledged his passing:\n<PERSON>, Barbadian-Canadian winner of the @cwwriters, @GillerPrize & numerous other awards, has died at 81. pic.twitter.com/QNktPXjvBq\n— Bocas Lit Fest (@bocaslitfest) June 26, 2016\n<PERSON>'s 2015 memoir, ′Membering, was longlisted for the 2016 OCM Bocas Prize for Caribbean Literature.\nOn Twitter, <PERSON> was remembered as gracious, generous and an authentic literary talent:\nIntelligent. Charming. Fun. Generous with emerging writers. We were lucky to have him. #<PERSON> https://t.", "641" ], [ "The Caribbean’s foremost literary festival has released its 2021 longlist; Trinidad & Tobago writers dominate · Global Voices\nCovers of the books that made the longlist of the 2021 OCM [One Caribbean Media] Bocas Prize for Caribbean Literature. Image courtesy Bocas LitFest, edited and used with permission.\nAlthough writers from five different Caribbean territories have been longlisted for the 2021 OCM [One Caribbean Media] Bocas Prize for Caribbean Literature, writers from Trinidad and Tobago have secured the lion's share of places for a prize, now in its eleventh year, that is widely considered to be the foremost literary award for Caribbean writers.\nWorth $10,000 United States dollars, the prize celebrates books in three genres—poetry, fiction, and literary non-fiction—published by Caribbean authors in the preceding year. Of the nine that have been longlisted for the 2021 prize, five are by Trinbagonian writers, with the others by authors from Dominica, Guyana, Jamaica, and St. Lucia.\nThe festival itself, which because of the COVID-19 pandemic will happen virtually for the second year in a row, will take place from April 23–25. The overall chair of this year's panel is <PERSON>, winner of the 2016 Forward Prize.\nPoetry\nThe poetry longlist ranges from a debut writer to a literary veteran, with the chosen collections covering a range of topics.", "941" ], [ "“Guabancex”, named for a Taíno storm deity, is the first collection by <PERSON>, a poet from Dominica. Her book was inspired by the devastating impact on the island of 2017’s Hurricane Maria.\nThe judges for the poetry panel, which include Jamaican poet and panel chair <PERSON>, Trinidadian poet <PERSON> and Guyanese-Canadian writer <PERSON>, felt that the form and expressions of <PERSON>'s poems captured “the vastness and the vulnerability of life on an island [by] convey[ing] a collective trauma that moves through and beyond pain and loss to what is valuable and possible.”\n“The Dyzgraphxst”, the second offering by Canada-based St. Lucian <PERSON>, was described by the judges as “a journey where meaning is often an unpaved road, but the ride is richly satisfying”, while “Country of Warm Snow”—the sixth book by Trinidadian <PERSON>—explores the experience of living between two countries over five decades. The judges described the collection as “a rare book that reads with deceptive ease […] mov[ing] fluidly across time and borders while being rooted deeply in place.”\nFiction\nWasafiri editor <PERSON> chaired the fiction panel, the judges of which included <PERSON>, director of the Toronto International Festival of Authors, and writer <PERSON> from the US Virgin Islands.\nThe longlist for this category included two debut novels and the latest book by a former winner of the OCM Bocas Prize. “These Ghosts Are Family,” the first book by US-based Jamaican <PERSON>, delves into the entanglements of a family over the course of several generations. The book impressed the judges for the innovative way in which it tackles “the story of Caribbean enslavement and the legacy of trauma it has passed down from generation to generation.”\nThe UK-based, Trinidad-born writer <PERSON> was lauded for “creat[ing] characters that we truly care for” in her debut novel “Love After Love,” while her compatriot <PERSON>, also based in the UK, made the cut with her latest offering, “The Mermaid of Black Conch,” which has been very well received and recently won the Costa Book of the Year.\nNo stranger to literary acclaim, <PERSON> won the OCM Bocas Prize back in 2013 for her novel “Archipelago.” Of her latest book, the judges said it “reads like the work of a novelist in command of her material and focused on using a mythic ‘then’ to speak to now.”\nNon-fiction\nThe range of work submitted for this genre, which included works spanning essays and memoirs to cultural criticism, led the judging panel— which included chair <PERSON>, Guyanese-American writer <PERSON> and British author <PERSON>—to believe that “Caribbean non-fiction is in excellent hands.", "117" ], [ "Tunes in the time of corona: A playlist from Trinidad & Tobago hits all the right notes · Global Voices\nJournalists and podcasters <PERSON> (left) and <PERSON> (right), of Trini Good Media. Photo by <PERSON>, used with permission.\nCheck out Global Voices’ special coverage of the global impact of COVID-19.\nTrinidadian journalists <PERSON> and <PERSON> — collectively known as Trini Good Media, since December 2017, when their podcasting outfit was launched — wanted to find ways to unite people during the COVID-19 pandemic, so they did the polar opposite of what you might expect. Rather than produce a newsy programme on prevention measures, they took to Facebook to ask their friends and followers to pick two of their favourite songs and explain what makes them special.\n<PERSON> was inspired by a friend, <PERSON>, who introduced her to a concept called “Stick it On” at parties in Brighton, England, where she used to live. It allowed ordinary music lovers to literally get their 15 minutes of fame by doing their thing on the DJ decks. You didn't have to be a mixmaster, just bring enough music to fill the time slot and play. What that created, remembers <PERSON>, was “a real diversity of music, very interesting, very organic”, and she loved the fact that there was something for everybody.\nMore than 100 Facebook comments later, the podcasting version of this idea resulted in a musical cornucopia that seamlessly melded different genres and brought back fond memories for listeners all around the world whose physical movements, due to the COVID-19 pandemic, have been restricted by ever-tightening isolation measures.", "550" ], [ "The playlist — and the stories that go with it — offers a glimpse of Trinidad and Tobago's society and culture. Here are a few highlights…\n‘Song for a Lonely Soul’ by <PERSON>\nOne of the most innovative, enduring and socially conscious calypsonians of all time, <PERSON> and his then band, Charlie's Roots, released this song in 1989 as part of the album “The Power and the Glory”. One listener said it was a wonderful reminder of the deep connection that Trinbagonians have with their country, no matter what part of the world they happen to be, while another said the song was special to her because when she was pregnant, the baby would move whenever she played it.\n‘Stomp’ by The Brothers Johnson\nListener <PERSON> suggested this funk/rhythm and blues classic as a “[favourite] for impromptu dancing”. There were quite a few other songs in the mix that got people to move, including <PERSON> “Let's Dance”, Earth Wind & Fire's “Let's Groove”, the energetic collaboration between songstress <PERSON> and soca icon <PERSON>, “It's Carnival”, and — quite to <PERSON> disdain — <PERSON> “Frankie”: “You can't help but sing along,” she says, “even though you hate it.”\nAlso great for dancing in that uniquely Trinbagonian style, “wining”, is Lord Kitchener‘s calypso classic “Sugar Bum Bum”, and Shadow's “Bassman”, both boasting mesmerising bass lines. Facebook user <PERSON> noted the importance of the latter “because of its place in calypso history and because it speaks so clearly [to] the burden/blessing of a creative life.”\n‘Virtual Insanity’ by Jamiroquai\nThis pick by the British funk band Jamiroquai was requested by Facebook user <PERSON>, because the lyrics always feel relevant, he says, to how he feels about the times, “plus [the] video is fire!” Other commenters shared that the song — and indeed, the whole set — was refreshingly soothing and brought back wonderful memories. <PERSON>, a Trinidadian living in Houston, Texas, said, “I feel like I'm in a house lime [party] with a small group of very close friends.”\n‘My Belief’ by <PERSON>\nThere were quite a few uplifting and inspiring songs in the mix, including “Timeless” by <PERSON>, <PERSON> “Overjoyed”, pianist <PERSON> instrumental version of soca star <PERSON>’ wildly popular hit, “Savannah Grass”, and “Feel the Love”, a collaboration between Freetown Collective and DJ <PERSON>.", "264" ], [ "From COVID-19 to Caribbean literature, this is what the region looked like in 2020 · Global Voices\nCOVID-19 illustration by <PERSON> on Flickr, CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.\nCOVID-19 was undoubtedly the topic that dominated news headlines this year. In the Caribbean, however, the pandemic served to exacerbate already existing issues, including societal inequities and gender-based violence — but it also allowed regional netizens the space to create and reimagine their collective future.\nHere's a recap of some of our most engaging stories of 2020…\nCOVID-19\nFrom travel bans to declining tourism, the Caribbean — like the rest of the world — was forced to readjust in an attempt to stay safe from the virus.\nSeveral Caribbean countries initially closed their borders (some, like Trinidad and Tobago's, remain closed), and regional governments began imposing quarantine restrictions.\nBehavioural changes were slow to take hold, however. Jamaica encountered problems with overcrowding in public shopping areas, and there were several reports of the police breaking up parties in Trinidad and Tobago, even as public health regulations limited congregating in large numbers. The inconsistencies guiding such police actions contributed to online discourse questioning whether there was a double standard at play in the enforcement of COVID-19 protocols.\nThe ripple effects of COVID-19 restrictions — economic and otherwise — soon began to take effect.", "1019" ], [ "Trinidad and Tobago, for instance, experienced a rise in reports of domestic violence during the country's initial lockdown period, and the economic gap seemed all the wider once school went online, leaving many students without access.\nJust as in a war, the battle against COVID-19 was full of advances and retreats, including the early cancellation of Trinidad and Tobago Carnival 2021.\nThe pandemic also brought out people's creativity, however, both in the kitchen and via an online extempo initiative in which singers and musicians sent messages of safety and solidarity. One regional netizen even began applying design thinking to the question of how the Caribbean can best prepare for a post-COVID-19 world.\nBlack Lives Matter\nFollowing the May 25 murder of <PERSON>, an African-American man, at the hands of police officers in Minneapolis, Minnesota, the United States-based Black Lives Matter movement was thrust into the global spotlight.\nIn the Caribbean, <PERSON>'s death raised important questions of the region's own deeply-rooted racism and colonial legacy.\nThe #BLM movement inspired — across the region — calls to remove statuary that many felt robbed Caribbean people of the right to tell their own history. In Barbados, these efforts culminated in the official removal of a statue of British naval officer <PERSON> for his role in the transatlantic slave trade.\nFrom Jamaica to the north of the archipelago to Trinidad and Tobago at the south, there were also calls for greater police accountability and prison reform.\nWhile there were several missteps with businesses trying to capitalise on the public interest created around the #BLM movement, there were also attempts at discussion around race.\nIn Guyana, however, after a long and drawn-out elections impasse, in which the incumbent government, predominantly appealing to Afro-Guyanese voters, was accused of trying to rig the results in its favour and keep out the opposition People's Progressive Party (PPP) — which has a primarily Indo-Guyanese support base — from office, ethnic tensions were rife, culminating with the brutal murder of two young men.\nAfter its own bitterly contested election, many social media users suggested that Trinidad and Tobago's own racist underbelly was on display.\n#BlackLivesMatter also helped catapult the region's right to slavery reparations into the international spotlight. Buoyed by the success of The University of the West Indies signing a historic GBP 20 million ($24,308,500 United States dollars) reparations agreement with the University of Glasgow in 2019, the Caribbean continued to make its case for why reparations are necessary.\nThe environment\nAs the pandemic put regional concerns into sharper focus, one of the most pressing continues to be the environment. It is a cause regional social media users rallied around this year, from the celebration of Earth Day to the recognition of World Environment Day.\nThere were several encouraging milestones when it came to championing the environment, from the passing of Belize's Fisheries Resources Bill, hailed as “a model for how to manage marine resources,” to the vibrant youth activism against proposed limestone quarrying in an ecologically sensitive area of Jamaica.\nActivism also triumphed when it came to raising public awareness about the environmental threat posed by a listing Venezuelan oil tanker anchored in the Caribbean Sea.", "678" ], [ "Trinidad & Tobago photographers commemorate Earth Day 2020 with online challenge · Global Voices\nScreenshot of an image by <PERSON>, submitted to the Photographers Guild of Trinidad & Tobago's Facebook page as part of its Earth Day challenge. All photos have been republished in this post with the permission of the Guild.\nEarth Day, celebrated every April 22, looks very different this year from its previous incarnations. With the COVID-19 pandemic restricting movement and gatherings worldwide, this year's celebration has moved entirely online.", "941" ], [ "The event's website describes it as “far more than a day”:\nIt must be a historic moment when citizens of the world rise up in a united call for the creativity, innovation, ambition, and bravery that we need to meet our climate crisis and seize the enormous opportunities of a zero-carbon future.\nThe Trinidad and Tobago Photographers Guild is doing its part to heed the digital call to action, via an ongoing photo challenge that began nearly six weeks ago, around March 12, when Trinidad and Tobago recorded its index case of COVID-19.\nUnder the theme “(Stay) Focused”, the social media-based challenge invites photographers to share their work on the Guild's Facebook page. Thus far, topics have covered everything from fireworks to “macro” challenges to, well…Earth Day!\nGuild President <PERSON> spoke with Global Voices by telephone and said that given the country's stay-at-home instructions, photographers are encouraged to take photos in their homes and gardens or dig into their archives for uplifting images:\nWe're trying to keep the topics upbeat in order to keep people focused, and steer everyone's mental state in a positive direction while practising social distancing. … This can be a depressing time for creatives. There is very little work and it's very restrictive.”\nThe response from photographers has been fantastic, and <PERSON> notices a lot of interaction, encouragement and growth among community members — not to mention the joy they are bringing to the wider public by sharing their amazing shots.\nOn this very special Earth Day, when our natural world is beginning to heal itself thanks to the massive drop in human activity, these photographs are a blissful reminder of our precious environment and the responsibility that rests on our collective shoulders, post-pandemic, to be good stewards.\nPhotographer <PERSON> posted a beautiful shot of mangroves, with the hashtag “#protection for our coastlines”:\n#photoguildtt #earth#mangroves#protection for our coastlines\nGeplaatst door <PERSON> op Dinsdag 21 april 2020\nMangroves are critical in shielding against coastal erosion and helping to protect small island developing states (SIDS) against the ill effects of climate change through its effective absorption of carbon dioxide.\nThere were several pics of birds, symbolic of new life and regeneration — including baby birds in a nest and one hummingbird feeding another, both by <PERSON>:\n#earthday #photoguildtt\nGeplaatst door Photographers Guild of Trinidad & Tobago op Dinsdag 21 april 2020\n#earthday2020 #photoguildtt\nGeplaatst door <PERSON> op Dinsdag 21 april 2020\nThere were a lot of pristine beach — and beach clean-up — scenes, which really spoke to the Caribbean spirit.\n#EarthDay2020 #Photoguildtt#SocialMediaChallenge\nGeplaatst door Photographers Guild of Trinidad & Tobago op Dinsdag 21 april 2020\n#EarthDay2020 #Photoguildtt#SocialMediaChallenge\nGeplaatst door Photographers Guild of Trinidad & Tobago op Dinsdag 21 april 2020\nA Man-o-War adding a stinging beauty to the landscape of Manzanilla .", "941" ] ]

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[ [ "Making a Tooth Fairy Box\nIntroduction: Making a Tooth Fairy Box\nThis little box started out as a 3 inch by 3 inch business card which was laser cut from 1/8 inch Baltic birch plywood.\nThe pieces poke out to make a small hinged box.\nThe business cards turned out to be really expensive.\nThe box is really too small to hold any but the tiniest of rings. However, my wife was quick to point out that the box is the correct size for a pair of diamond stud earrings (Absolutely . . . . Use it for that).\nI needed another reason for a small box.\nOne of my friends pointed out that the box is the perfect size for a tooth. So, the small box became the Tooth Fairy Box.\nAs one parent later told me, the box is way easier for the Tooth Fairy to find than a lone tooth under a pillow.\nI carry the 3x3 panels with me and make them to hand out when we go to restaurants.", "845" ], [ "I also make and hand out toys (see the dinosaur toy Instructable). The toys go to the kids, the boxes go to mom and dad.\nSupplies\nFiles\nDXF, SVG, and Corel versions of the file\nCaution: You will note there are outlines of the pieces in the center of the panel and an outline of the finished box in the corner of the panel. Those are meant to be engraved, not cut. Just sayin'\nCAD program\n* To import the vector file into something your laser will recognize\n* My program of choice is Corel Draw (V16)\n* The attached files are DXF and SVG exported from Corel Draw\nLaser\n* With enough power to etch AND cut 1/8 inch plywood\n* I had access to a 60 WATT Universal and 75 WATT Epilog\n1/8 inch Baltic birch plywood (my material of choice)\n* Other materials will work but the vector file will need to be changed to accommodate the thickness of the material being used.\nNote: 1/8 inch thick wood might work except that the cutout pieces are small and have small tabs which might break along wood grain lines.\nWood Glue\n* If you scale the file correctly, the parts will press fit together.\n* Variations in the thickness of the material sometimes means a loose fit.\n* I use Titebond original wood glue. I use a TINY amount (two to four drops per box / see picture) and it sets up fairly quickly.\nStep 1: Poke Out the Pieces and Start Assembly\nCarefully poke out the pieces.\n* If you hold the panel up to the light, you will see little tabs holding the individual pieces to the panel.\n* Apply pressure to the border at the tab holding the piece in place, the piece will usually break free,\nTo start, you will need\n* Back, both sides and bottom (shown)\nNote: Careful not to confuse the front and back pieces. The back piece is taller.\nNote: The sides are interchangeable.\nAdd a SMALL amount of glue to the mating surface on the BOTTOM PIECE ONLY\nNote: The point is to keep any glue away from the hinge pins\nThe curve in the side pieces goes next to the hinge pins (see the picture)\nAfter the bottom, sides and back are glued, find the front piece.\nAdd a SMALL amount of glue to the mating surfaces (bottom and sides)\nAttach the front piece and squeeze the pieces together slightly.\nEach tab should be fully seated into its adjoining slot.\nStep 2: Gather the Pieces for the Top.\nNow that the bottom part of the box is complete, it should look like the first picture.\nNow find the top, top sides, and top front pieces.\nThe pieces are shown in the picture in their correct orientation\nNote: The top piece has a straight edge without any slots. That is the back of the box lid.\nApply a small amount of glue to the mating surfaces on the TOP PIECE ONLY\nWhen assembled it, will look like picture 4\nStep 3: Assemble the Top to the Box\nWhile the glue on the top is still wet,\nWhile the glue on the top is still wet, put the top on the box.\nNote: It will be necessary to move one of the top side pieces outwards a little bit so that it can slip over the hinge pin (as shown in the picture)\nOnce the top is in place, squeeze the box on all six sides (Slightly, remember its 1/8 inch plywood) to make sure all tabs are in their slots\nIts not a bad idea to open the box carefully a few times to make sure that the lid is not glued down.", "276" ], [ "Epoxy Holding Tool\nIntroduction: Epoxy Holding Tool\nFor a while, I used wood glue to hold my wooden projects together. While wood glue worked, I found myself dissatisfied with the cure time, the short term strength, and the color of the final product. I also tried CA glue, but even the gel seemed to soak into the wood rather than bond the edges together.\nSo, I started using 5 minute (clear) epoxy.\nEpoxy has been dependable, consistent, and the two components of the epoxy have remained viable even after a year of storage in the Arizona heat.\nMy epoxy of choice has been Bob Smith Industries P/N BSI-201H, (4.5 ounce /128 gram combined), available in Hobby stores and on Amazon.\nSupplies\nLaser powerful enough to cut through 1/8 inch Baltic Birch plywood\n12 inch x 12 inch piece of 1/8 Inch Baltic Birch\n5 minute (clear) epoxy\n1/8 inch bamboo Bar-B-Que skewer\nStep 1: Epoxy Storage While in Use / Not in Use\nProblem:\nWhen the bottles are less than full, and I flip them over to dispense the liquid inside, it takes a while for the viscous fluid to travel down to the inverted tip. Then, when I'm done, the bottle gets set on its side or on the base and the fluid drains to the bottom again.\nSolution:\nLeave the bottles inverted (and capped) so the liquids are always down at the tip ready to use.\nOK . . . . But . . . New problems.\n1) I didn’t have a consistently convenient place to keep the bottles inverted when using them.\n2) The bottles were always falling over and rolling around.\n3) One time I left the bottles inverted for several days and a leaky cap left epoxy resin all over my work surface.\nStep 2: Purpose Made Storage for Bob Smith Epoxy Containers\nSolution:\nMake a caddy to hold the bottles in the 'tips-down' position when in use and in the 'tips-up' position when not in use.\nWhen the Epoxy is stored, the tips are upright (no mess).\nWhen I’m using the Epoxy, the cover is opened all the way and caddy is flipped over. The lid then acts as a stand to cradle the bottles with the tips down.\nWhile using the epoxy, between applications, I have a place to put the bottle that holds it 'tips-down'.\nIf the bottles leak while 'tips-down', they leak into an enclosed space.\nIf the bottles leak and damage the caddy, its cheap and easy to replace.\nWhen I’m done, I close the box, flip it over so I can read the words ‘Epoxy Caddy’, and it holds the bottles upright (tips-up).\nStep 3: Caddy Can Be Cut From Single 12\" X 12\" Piece of 1/8 Inch Baltic Birch.\nNot everyone has access to Corel Draw (my software of choice). However, all drawing programs that I know of will import either an SVG file, a DXF file or a PDF file.", "981" ], [ "So, along with the Corel Draw file, I have added those. After the file is imported, group everything together and make the outside rectangle dimensions for the panel 10.000” wide by 11.000 inches tall. This should make everything inside the panel the right size.\nThe words ‘Epoxy Caddy’ and the 3x3 square underneath are all meant to be vector etched (Low power / high speed). All the other lines are cut lines (High power / low speed).\nAfter the panel has been cut out, the pieces on the inside of the panel are held in place by 0.020” gaps in the vector lines that act as connecting tabs.\nLeave the pieces attached to the panel for sanding and paint. Later, the pieces can (easily) be poked out and assembled. The nubs left over by the broken tabs can be sanded as well.\nNotes:\n- It has been my experience that it is good practice to dry fit all the pieces before assembly using glue. Make sure the parts are located correctly and fit . . . first.\nStep 4: Assemble the Lid and the Box and Insert the Bamboo Hinge Pin.\n- The top has two similarly sized pieces. One has a larger center tab. Careful.\n- I use epoxy, but wood glue will work. I’ve tried GEL CA Glue without much luck. If it works for you, go for it.\nAssemble the pieces as shown in the pictures.\nLast and final is the hinge pin.", "959" ], [ "RETRO STACKING TOY\nIntroduction: RETRO STACKING TOY\nI wanted to make a special gift for my dear friend's grandbaby that is turning one in a few weeks. I thought of making this wooden stacking toy. So many toys today are made from plastic and other materials, however, the feel of a wooden toy is so comforting. I think of this as a \"retro toy\" that hopefully <PERSON> will enjoy for many years and perhaps pass along to her own children someday!\nAnd I made it from one piece of wood!\nStep 1: Supplies\nOne piece of wood\n12\" X 18\"\n3/4 wooden dowel\n8\" wooden plaque (for the base, or you can cut your own)\n*assorted woodshop tools ; band saw, drill press, table saw\nsandpaper\nwood glue\npainting supplies\nStep 2: Create Shapes\nmeasure the wood and into 6 pieces, each 6\"X6\"\ndesign pieces and cut the shapes.", "644" ], [ "I decided to do bugs in a garden theme.\nStep 3: Drill Holes\nI used a drill press with a 13/16 flat wood drill bit.\nThe hole didn't go completely through the wood I used for the stacking pieces, therefore, I had to flip each piece and continue the hole from the other side.\nStep 4: The Base\nWhen drilling the hole in the base (to insert the dowel for stacking) I did not want to go all the way through.\nI used an 6\" square wooden plaque for the base of my toy. (An option would be to cut your own base. )\nStep 5: Dowel\nPlace the dowel in the hole of the base and stack the 6 wooden pieces on top.\nMeasure and cut the dowel.\nSAND ALL PIECES, including what will be the exposed edge of the dowel.\nStep 6: Painting\nPaint all the pieces including the base.\nUse wood glue to insert the dowel in the base.\nI used Blick Studio Acrylic (non Toxic paint) and finished each piece with a water-based gloss finish. I wanted the pieces to be glossy as well as a surface that can be easily cleaned and also safe for <PERSON> to chew on if necessary!\nStep 7: Close Up\nOne side of each critter is detailed and the underside is solid colors of the rainbow.\nStep 8: February 2012\nOne of the first Instructables I ever published, back in 2012 was my\nSandwich Stacking Toy/Coaster Set by <PERSON>\nI had forgotten that I made it using ONE PIECE OF WOOD!", "76" ], [ "Pi Pie Stand\nIntroduction: Pi Pie Stand\nTo celebrate Pi Day I decided nothing would be better than making a pun! So, I made a Pi stand. I feel like people who are quirky enough to celebrate their love of pie and Pi would get a kick out of this unique twist on the traditional cake stand, and the added strip of walnut inlay gives this Pi stand enough character to make it stand out beneath the pie its holding.\nSupplies\nMaterials needed:\nFor the Pi piece\n10 inch long x 6 inch wide x 2 inch thick Piece of Maple ( I used maple because it was what I had on had)\nFor the round plates\nTop Plate: 14 Inch long x 10 1/2 wide x 1 inch thick Piece of Maple ( the top and bottom plate will be cut from the same piece of maple)\nBottom Plate: 12 Inch long x 7 inch wide x 1 inch thick Piece of Maple\nWalnut Inlay: 10 inch long x 2 inch wide x 1 inch thick ( you will cut you inlays from this one piece)\nTools Needed:\n* 220 grit sand paper\n* 150 grit sand paper\n* Metal Files\n* Wood glue\n* Nail Gun\n* 1 1/4 Brad Nails\n* Band Saw\n* Jointer\n* Planer\n* Table Saw\n* Disc Sander\n* Circular Saw\n* Clamps\n* Pencil Compass\n* String\n* Tape Measure\n* Pencil\n* Oil/Stain/Paint\nStep 1: Cutting Walnut\nFirst ALWAYS REMEMBER SAFETY FIRST! PLEASE WEAR PROPER EYE AND EAR PROTECTION WHEN WORKING WITH DANGEROUS TOOLS!\nTOOLS NEEDED:\n* Band saw\n* Tap measure\n* pencil\nFor this project I used rough cut wood, this will come up later as it will need to be jointed and planed, but first we need to make our cuts!\nWe will need to cut our walnut for the inlay. The three pieces of inlay will all be cut from the same piece of walnut, I only had a 10 inch piece so that was the max that I could do, but for this project that is perfect.\nCutting Initial Piece\nI used my band saw with the fence as a guide to cut all my pieces to the desired width. Before cutting make sure to mark your wood with all the correct measurements.\nCut a piece of walnut down to a strip to 10 L x 2 W x 1 thick. I drew a diagram of this in the pictures for reference.\nCutting Pi Piece\nNext is cutting the Pi piece.", "415" ], [ "Once again I adjusted the fence on my bandsaw to help me cut a strip off that measured\n10 inch L x 2 inch W x 1/4 inch thick. As stated above, I drew a diagram for reference.\nCutting Plate Pieces\nFinally, time to cut the strips for the top bottom and middle pieces. Take the leftover walnut and use it to cut the final two strips for your two plates.\nFor the bottom plate:\nFirst cut a strip 10 inch L x 1 inch W x 1/4 inch thick\nFor the top plate:\ncut a strip 10in L x 1 W x 1/4 inch thick\nYay! You have now cut your inlays!\nStep 2: Cutting Maple\nTOOLS NEEDED:\n* Table saw\n* Circular saw\n* Tape Measure\n* Pencil\nNow for this step we will be cutting the maple for the top and bottom plate and for the Pi shape. The top and bottom plates are fairly easy and straight forward since the wood is already the desired thickness of 1 inch so they only need to be cut to length x width.\nTop & Bottom Plate\nFor this cut I used a circular saw because my board was pretty long and it was easier to maneuver the circular saw than maneuver the board around. I clamped the board to my work table and made sure that I had my eye and ear protection on and made first my top cut of\n14 in L x 10 1/2 in W x 1 in thick\nAfter this cut, I made my bottom plate cut to\n12 in L x 7 in W x 1 in thick\nYou can use any method you like to cut your wood to your dimensions, such as a compound miter saw, hand saw, or table saw, like I said I just used my circular saw for ease.\nPi Piece\nSometimes things work out well in life and it turns out I already had a piece of maple that was perfectly sized for this project, so I did not need to cut this piece. However, I do know the wood fairies do not visit everyone and bestow perfect pieces of cut wood in their garages so they may need to cut their own.", "76" ], [ "Hot Glue Mosaic Coasters (or Tiles)\nIntroduction: Hot Glue Mosaic Coasters (or Tiles)\nThese colourful Hot Glue Mosaic Coasters are fun to make. I was looking at lego art, which made me think of iron melt beads and with the hot glue contest in the back of my mind I thought of doing this.\nInstead of the cutter, jig and hole punch, you could just use a craft knife and a normal hole punch. I didn't have a hole punch of the right size, so I made one. Your punch might also get a bit gluey.\nI made the cutter jig because I wanted the slices to be consistent. I made the cutter because I found it easier to cut the glue sticks with pressure from above.\nSupplies\n7mm hot glue sticks in various colours.\nParchment paper\nClothes Iron\nA surface to iron on ( used a folded tea towel to protect the surface of my kitchen counter )\nMould release ( I used Silicone spray )\nSafety goggles\nDust mask\nGloves\nFor the mould, cutter and hole punch\n3d printer\nFilament ( I used PLA and it held up fine, but filament with a higher melting point, like PETG or ABS, would be better for the mould).\nTinkercad and a Tinkercad login.\nSmall blow torch\nCalipers or Ruler\nCutter:\nCraft knife with a long blade\nHole Punch:\n4mm Aluminium Rivet\nDremel or drill with 2mm, 2.8mm and 3mm metal drill bits.\nSandpaper\nPliers ( I used needle nose pliers and wire cutters )\nHammer\nBench vice (or another way to clamp the rivet while drilling.)\nPopsicle sticks\nStep 1: 3D Printed Parts\nI modeled the mould, hot glue cutter and hole punch in Tinkercad.\nI've included instructions for modeling the mould in Tinkercad as I thought you might want to customise it for larger grids or thicker glue sticks. I've also included all the stl files and a link to the Tinkercad file for the mould and tools. I haven't included instructions for modeling the cutter and hole punch. They are both made up of simple boxes and cilinders in Tinkercad.", "401" ], [ "I'm happy to answer any questions regarding the 3D modeling or anything else.\nStep 2: Making the Coaster Mould\nOpen Tinkercad and log in. Start a new project.\n1: Create the grid\nIn The shapes panel search for \"grid\".\nSelect a shape called \"grid of square columns\" and enter the setting as follows:\nColumns: 10\nRows: 10\nSize 7.5 ( The diameter of a glue stick + 0.5mm tolerance. )\nGap: 0.4 ( I wanted the blocks seperated by a very thin line and this is the width of my printing nozzle.)\nHeight: 3 ( This will be the thickness of the coaster. )\nThe finished grid should measure 78.6mm x 78.6mm. This will be the size of the coaster.\nFrom the basic shapes menu add box and scale it to 78.6mm x 78.6mm x 2mm.\nClick on align and align it to the top of the grid.\n2: To make the rounded corners\nFrom the basic shapes menu add a box, make it a hole and set the radius to 1.\nScale the box to 78.6mm (width )x 78.6mm (length) x 20mm (height).\nAdd another box and scale it to 80mm (width )x 80mm (length) x 10mm (height).\nSelect both boxes and click on \"align\". Center the boxes and then group them.\nMake this new object a hole.\nCentre align this object and the grid and group them.\n3: Complete the mould\nAdd a box and scale it to 83mm x 83mm x 4mm (height).\nAlign this box and the grid with the rounded corners from the previous step, so that they are centred on the x and y axis.\nAlign the grid to the top of the new box.\nMake the grid a hole.\nGroup the grid and the box\nSelect the new object. Click on export and select stl.\nI printed the coaster mould in PLA with a layer hight of 0.28 and 25% infill.\nStep 3: The Blade Grip and Cutting Guide\nDownload and print the blade grip and cutting guide stl files. I printed them in PLA with a 0.28mm layer height and 25% infill.\nBreak a section of three blades off a long craft knife blade. I put the blade in a craft knife and used pliers to break it off.", "110" ], [ "White Oak Box for Small Tools - Hot Melt Special\nIntroduction: White Oak Box for Small Tools - Hot Melt Special\nI've had a plastic box of tools next to my 3D printer that built up over several years. At this point, I've accumulated exactly what I need and my 3D printer is broken again. So as my way of procrastinating fixing it, it is time to make a storage box for the tools.\nBut what if I need to remove the divider, or lower the tray? That is what I love about hot melt glue: it is really easy to squirt some rubbing alcohol on the joint, wiggle it loose, and reconfigure.\nI made this from re-sawed white oak from the hardwood supplier. But for the top and bottom pieces, it would be easy enough to grab a small piece of 1/4\" plywood from the local home store. Wooden paint stirrers and yard sticks would be a low buck alternative for dividers and rails.\nSupplies\nSupplies\n#4 - 1/2\" wood screws and countersink bit\nWood: 1/4\" oak or substitute plywood and paint sticks or yard sticks\n1/4\" tacks\n1/2\" glue sticks\nTools\nGraph Gear 0.9mm soft lead mechanical pencil\nHand Plane\nScissors\nSaw (table, band, hand, cordless, etc)\nArrow Hot Melt Glue Gun\n1-1/2\" Chisel\nUV Flashlight\nStep 1: Setup Hot Melt Work Area\nA few years back I won a bunch of Tandy leather working tools and supplies from an Instructables contest.\nThe 12\"x12\" granite plate works great as a hot glue work surface. It is dense enough that glue drips dry quickly, it isn't flammable if you walk away from the glue gun, and it is easy to scrape clean with an inexpensive wide chisel. A granite countertop sink cutout would work as well.\nStep 2: Layout the Tools\nTo get the dimensions, the tools are laid out to see how they will fit in a potential box. For me, roughly 7\" x 11\" worked. The thickest tools that will live in the bottom of the box determine the height of the slider rails, I went with 1-1/4\". I really didn't measure much of this, just start with a base dimension and use the first piece to mark the cut for the next piece.\nThis is a speed challenge, so I don't show cutting the boards. This might not be the best project if you have never cut a board, but feel free to drop me a comment and I can suggest how to do it. I'll go ahead and assume anybody making this knows how to operate a saw.\nStep 3: Glue the Main Box\nThree tricks here. The first is to think ahead and arrange the glue joints so everything is pressed in place to avoid sliding a joint and smearing hot melt all over the place. Another trick is to put the hot melt glue on the big board not the thin edge of a board, this avoids the tip slipping off the thin wood edge and burning your hand. Like I did.", "431" ], [ "Several times. The last trick is to square your first joint with the the next piece you are gluing in. The photo with my hand shows holding the next board in place while the glue cools.\nStep 4: Screw the Box\nOk, I know this is a hot melt project. So why am I using fasteners? Well to me, they complement each other. Look at this box and think how much fun it would be trying to clamp the boards in position so the countersink holes can be drilled. Or try to get some pneumatic brads in there without them bending in the hard wood and poking out of your PVA joint. Or tack it together with brads and a nail.\nHot melt makes all the annoyance go away. Glue, countersink, screw, and done. In like five minutes.\nStep 5: Add the Sliding Rail and Tray\nA couple of rails are glued in that are slightly wider than the tallest tool for the bottom compartment. Then a tray about half the width of the box is cut. A couple of dividers can be glued on the edge of the top tray, but it doesn't really need one on the edge above rail unless you plan to lift it out and use it stand-alone.\nStep 6: Leather Hinge\nI've installed small box hinges and they are annoying and fussy. Itty bitty little screws with microscopic drill bits. No thanks. This project takes a strip of soft leather, slathers hot melt all over it, then scoots everything in position before it cools. Some 1/4\" tacks complement the glue.", "599" ], [ "Designing a Segmented Vessel\nIntroduction: Designing a Segmented Vessel\nIn this article, I will explain how to make a set of plans to create a segmented Vessel.\nI want to thank my good friend and mentor, <PERSON> from Knox City Texas for providing the information and encouragement for this project. Items in quotation marks are taken directly from a paper written by <PERSON>.\nSupplies\nThe only tools you will need are a pencil, an eraser, a ruler and a sheet of paper large enough to create a full scale model of what you want.\nIn addition I like to use a digital caliper.\nStep 1: Basic Information Used in Segmented Turning\nJust a couple basic terms that segmented turners use.\nThe length is how long the back edge of the segment is.\nThe Width is the board width when you start cutting.\nThe thickness is how thick your ring will be.\nI know it is pretty basic, but it is easy to get the thickness and width mixed up.\nStep 2: Getting Started\nThe first thing you need to do is decide what you want to make.\nI suggest you start with something small.\nThe video link is to a YouTube video that I made covering all aspects of how I Design and Build a Segmented Vessel.\nStep 3: The Initial Layout\nBegin by drawing a vertical line in the center of your paper a couple inches longer than the height of your vessel.\nStep 4: Setting Up You Grid\nAfter that, draw horizontal lines to correspond with the thickness and number of layers you have in your vessel.\nStep 5: Initial Sketch\nSketch the outer edge of your vessel. I am usually pretty generous with the thickness of the wall.\nYou can always make an eighth inch wall from a quarter inch wall, It's pretty hard to go the other way.\nStep 6: Finding the Variables to Use in the Formulas\nDraw vertical lines on both sides of the wall.", "110" ], [ "When first starting out, I suggest you add a bit extra.\nStep 7: Finding the Measurements of Each Ring\nYou can use a ruler to measure the width of the segments in that ring. The bottom one can be skipped if you plan on using a solid piece of wood for the bottom of your vessel.\nStep 8: My Way of Measuring\nI prefer using decimals instead of fractions when using formulas.\nTo find the outside radius of your vessel (R_out), measure from the center line to the outer line of the drawing.\nTo find the inside radius, (R_in) measure from the center line to the inner line of the drawing.\nStep 9: The Variables That I Use in the Formulas\n(R_in) = Inside Radius of the ring.\n(R_out) = Outside Radius of the ring.\n(C) = Circumference of the ring.\n(N) = Number of segments in each ring.\n(W) = Width of the segments in that ring.\n(L) = Length of the segments in that ring.\n(A) = Segment angle.\n(CA) = Segment cut angle.\n(BL) = Board length. This is the minimum length of wood needed to cut the segments in that ring.\nStep 10: Finding the Circumference of Our Rings\nC = 2π(R_out)\nRing 1 (R_out) is 4.8 inches. Circumference of ring 1 would be C=2(3.14)(4.8) which equals 30.144\nI will not go through the rest of the calculations at this time.\nStep 11: Finding the Angle of Each Segment\nA = C/N = Segment angles.\nCA = A/2 = Cut angle.\nIn this example our vessel will have nine 3/4 inch layers and will have 24 segments in each layer.\nIf you are using a table saw, you will only need to know the angle of each segment.\nTo find the angle of each segment, divide 360 by 24 = 15 degrees.\nIf you are using a chop saw or band saw you will use the Cut Angle, which is the above angle Divided by two.\nThe cut angle would then be 7.5 degrees.\nStep 12: To Find the Width of Each Segment\nW = (R_out) –( R_in) = Width of each segment.\nTo find the width of each segment, simply subtract (R_in) from (R_out)\nThe inner radius from the outer radius.\nWidth of ring one would be 4.8 - 3.0 or 1.8 Inches.\nYou will need this measurement for each layer.", "76" ], [ "Paint Before Cutting Plywood Technique: Ukulele Stand\nIntroduction: Paint Before Cutting Plywood Technique: Ukulele Stand\nThis method can be used to add a little pizzaz to anything you want to make from plywood. I designed this ukulele stand a while back and have made them from various solid woods to use and to sell on Etsy. I made this one in plywood for the Plywood Challenge. I wanted a strong contrast between the faces of the plywood and the edges. To achieve this I painted the faces of the plywood black before cutting out the parts. I really like the effect I get from doing it this way.\nStep 1: Paint the Plywood\nYou could also use a colorful or dark wood stain if you prefer. I’m using some decent birch plywood with eleven plys and some water-based flat black paint. It needs to dry well before cutting out the pieces otherwise the soft new paint will pick up bits of sawdust and chips that are hard to clean off.\nStep 2: Look at the Plans\nI've included a SketchUp model below.\nStep 3: Cut a 1” Strip\ncut a 1” strip long enough to make the neck (1” x 16“) and cross piece (1” x 7“) on the table saw.\nStep 4: Cut a 4” Strip\ncut a 4” strip to make the feet piece (3.5” x 6.5”) and the top piece (4” x 4.5”) on the table saw.\nStep 5: Cut the Feet Apart\nmark and cut the feet apart on the bandsaw and sand the cuts flat. I taped the feet together and sanded them on the belt sander so they would be just alike.\nStep 6: Mark and Cut the Round Part of the Top\nUse a 2\" hole saw ½\" from the front edge of the top piece.\nStep 7: Mark and Cut the Slots\nI used a dado stack on the table saw to cut the slots.", "415" ], [ "Set the cut depth to the thickness of the plywood. Plywood is thinner than its nominal size, so test the fit before cutting all the slots. A half inch dado was way too loose for my half inch plywood. So I subtracted 1/16” from the stack and added some masking tape shims until the fit was right. I used a backer board as well to prevent the dado blade from blowing out the face ply on the back.\nStep 8: Finish Cutting Out the Top Piece\nI used the bandsaw for the straight cuts. Then sanded the edges on the belt sander.\nStep 9: Sand the Sharp Edges on All the Parts\nI used the belt sander at first and then a sanding block to ease the edges and corners.\nStep 10: Assemble and Glue\nIf the fit is good, you can leave it as a knock-down piece, or as I prefer glue with wood glue or super glue. I used thin super glue because it soaks into the joints and darkens the wood similarly to the shellac so it looks better after the next step.\nStep 11: Shellac the Whole Thing\nThe edges are where you need to let it soak in to make the plys look nice and contrasty. A few coats with a light sanding in between will make it nice and smooth.\nStep 12: This Stand Will Accommodate Any Size Uke Up to a Tenor\nAnd leaving your instrument on display means you will see it and play it more often, and improve faster. Have fun!", "599" ] ]

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[ [ "Japan: Moving Beyond a TV Drama Production · Global Voices\nThere are some television shows that become fashion trend setters (à la Sex and the City) but what would you think if a show was designed as a vehicle to sell clothes?\nWith television stations in a financial slump with shrinking advertising revenues, Kansai Television is experimenting with a new take on product placement. Viewers are offered the chance to buy apparel and accessories showcased in the fashion drama Real Clothes [ja], which features popular actresses <PERSON> and <PERSON>.\nA summary of the show from Tokyo Graph:\nThe drama is based on <PERSON> manga of the same name. <PERSON> plays the role of <PERSON>, a saleswoman in the futon section of a department store. Despite her plain clothes and poor makeup, she ends up being transferred to the women's clothing department, where she has to be trained by her extraordinarily fashionable boss (<PERSON>).\nThe RedPen blog gives a rundown of the system in a post titled “The border between advertisement and content is breaking down with ‘Real Clothes'” (崩れ始める広告とコンテンツの境界線、「リアル・クローズ」):\nフジテレビは2009年10月13日（22:10～）より、関西テレビ制作のドラマ「リアル・クローズ」の放映を開始します。放送と同時に俳優が身につけている服やアクセサリーをネット経由で購入できる、いわゆるEC連動型番組ですが、公共電波を独占的、排他的に利用しているテレビ局のあこぎな商売として非難する声も上がっています。（参照：「主役が着た服、ドラマＨＰで即通販 番組？広告？境界は」）\nFuji TV will start broadcasting Kansai TV's “Real Clothes” from 22:10 on October 13th.", "243" ], [ "It's an e-commerce program where viewers can go online and purchase the clothing and accessories that the actors wear on the show. There's outcry about this being the monopolistic and exclusive usage of public airwaves for commercial purposes by a television station.\nリアル・クローズは電子番組表Gガイドを提供するインタラクティブ・プログラム・ガイドが開発したシステム「オンエアリンク」利用の第一号。出演者が着用した衣装やアクセサリーなどのアイテムや商品がテレビ番組のストーリーに連動して、ECサイトにアップされ、オンタイムで同じ商品が購入できるシステムです。出演者が着用している商品情報と番組メタデータをデータベース上でひも付け、タイムコードに合わせて配信・管理できます。\nReal Clothes is the first practical application of the interactive program guide system “On Air Link”, which is developed by Interactive Program Guide, the creators of the electronic TV listings “G Guide”. The items worn by the actors are pushed to the e-commerce site and viewers can buy them while the show is being aired. Product information and program metadata are linked within the database and the system allows for information distribution and management in accordance to a time code.", "618" ], [ "Japan: Anime Character ‘<PERSON>’ on Twitter · Global Voices\nSazae-san, a comedy chronicling the lives of the fictional <PERSON> family, is one of Japan's longest-running and oldest comic strips and animations. The animated series first aired in 1969 and is broadcast every Sunday from 6:30 to 7:00. It's not much of an exaggeration to say that at some point in our lives, all Japanese, either as a child or when raising children, will follow the tradition of having Sunday dinner with the family while watching Sazae-san (and finishing up with Chibi Maruko-chan, which airs from 7:00-7:30).\nRecently, a seemingly unofficial Twitter account for <PERSON>, the agreeable husband of the main character <PERSON>, popped up. He already has close to 7,000 followers after 100+ tweets.\nMasuo-san makes announcements about air dates, with a unique spin. The Twitter story is set up describing the <PERSON> family as having television crews come in to film their daily lives.\nGood morning. ‘Sazae-san’ will air today. The <PERSON> family used to review the shows together when we first started, but lately a show can go by without anyone seeing it.\nHe gives us a bit of insight to his home life.\nE-mail from <PERSON> in Hakata. She's having a motsunabe dinner with the filming crew. <PERSON> is originally from Fukuoka Prefecture, so she plans to meet friends afterwards.\nHe also gets the chance to tell his side of the story. <PERSON> often takes a backseat to his outgoing and sometimes pushy wife and her immediate family, so it's refreshing to hear his voice.\nFinished work for the day and heading home. The show makes it look like I go home everyday while the sun is still out, but I actually do a fair amount of overtime.\nThere are clever tie-ins with social trends.", "243" ], [ "The Taspo Card is an identity card required to buy cigarettes from the vending machine. Convenience stores enjoyed a bump in business for a while when people who hadn't applied for their cards yet went to the stores instead.\nDecent weather, going for a walk with <PERSON>. I'm out of cigarettes, so we'll head over to the convenience store near Sakura Shinmachi Station. I haven't gotten around to making a Taspo yet.\nAnd of course, he answers questions about the other characters on the show.\n[Question] What type of novels does <PERSON> write? [<PERSON>'s answer] Literary romances, or so I hear. Just between you and I, I haven't read any of <PERSON> books. They're available through Amazon but it's all a bit too highbrow for me.\nBlogger <PERSON> appreciates the humor.\nそこで、今日の放送と同時に、彼の実況解説が行われていたのだ。\n一番笑ったのは、マスオさんが波平さんと歩いているシーンの後ページを読み込むと、「すみません。午前中実はパチンコ行ってました。」の書き込み。確かにそのシーンのマスオさんは紙袋を抱えていた。見事なアドリブだ。\n本来、私は二次創作等が好きじゃないのだが、これは許せた。\nきっとマスオさん（なりきり）のセンスが素晴らしいんだと思う。\n<PERSON>-san tweeted throughout the program today. I laughed the most when there was a tweet saying “Sorry. I was actually playing pachinko this morning” after a scene where <PERSON> was walking with <PERSON>. He was carrying a paper bag in that scene. Excellent ad libbing!\nGenerally, I don't like secondary works but this is very acceptable. It must be that <PERSON> (or rather, the person behind the Twitter account) has a wonderful sense of humor.\n<PERSON> is also enjoying the ride.", "243" ], [ "Japan’s Cherry Blossom Tradition Tests Rookie Employees · Global Voices\nAmong the thousands of people that fill Japan's parks every spring to picnic under the delicate pink cherry blossoms, known as sakura, are young professionals. They are new recruits sent by their bosses to reserve a spot for the company's outdoor feast, and are sometimes made to sit for hours well into the night guarding the location.\nThe blooming of the cherry blossom trees in Japan in early spring coincides with the beginning of the Japanese business year, and it is tradition to test new employees with this task.\n<PERSON> at Yoyogi Park. Photo by <PERSON> (CC BY 2.0)\nTwitter user <PERSON> (‏@MameBroth) wrote about the thankless job on his account on March 20, 2013:\n‏@MameBroth: 新人が花見の場所取りをします。ですが仕事には納期があります。なのでノートパソコンを持たされます。場所取りしながらコーディングします。夜になります。誰も来ません。会社に連絡すると「クソ忙しいのにいけるわけねえだろ！」と怒られます。まだ冷える寒い夜に一人ぼっち。なんと悲しいことか。\n‏@MameBroth: I am taking place for hanami spot as a new employee. But I have to meet a product deadline so they told me to bring a laptop computer. I do coding while reserving the spot. Night comes on. Nobody has come yet.", "925" ], [ "I call the office. I get yelled at over the phone, “What make you think we can come? We are busy as hell!”. All alone on a chilling night. How sad is this.\nThe tradition of new hires reserving a picnic spot for their companies is part of the larger annual tradition of hanami where friends and families hold feasts under the flowering trees and enjoy sake and beer. Companies also organize hanami, and often cases, the new employees are being evaluated based on how good they conduct the hanami party.\nWhy is this a new employee’s job? In online resource site All About, writer <PERSON> stated [ja] that the task is a way for new recruits to prove their workplace skills:\nもしあなたが幹事なら、場所を確保し、お酒の調達をするだけではあまりにも無難すぎます。なぜなら花見の準備は、仕事の手際や仕切りに通じます。酒宴の準備とは、すなわちあなたの手腕が、こっそりと上司や先輩に試されているということでもあるのです。\nIf you are responsible for your company's hanami party, simply reserving a spot and procuring liquors are not good enough.The skill of preparing hanami is associated with management skill and neat work. Your bosses and seniors are surreptitiously evaluating your capability through your skill of preparing the feast.\nThis year, the Japan Meteorological Agency announced cherry blossoms reached full bloom on March 22 in Tokyo, the second earliest since the weather agency began taking statistics in 1953.\nWith the early arrival of the full bloom of cherry blossoms this year, Twitter users wondered if the new employees’ first task would be affected. The blooming period is very short, and company hanami parties are supposed to be held in April.", "925" ], [ "Japan’s Independent Tofu Makers Are Rapidly Disappearing · Global Voices\nPhoto of a tofu maker's store, in which tofu is produced and sold. Image by Flickr user <PERSON> (CC BY NC ND 2.0)\nJapan's Yomiuri Newspaper recently reported [ja] that the country's traditional tofu makers who produce and sell tofu in their own shops are on the verge of extinction.", "925" ], [ "According to the article, in the last ten years, 5,000 tofu makers have closed down their businesses.\nTofu industry journal Toyoshimpo [ja] detailed that the number of tofu makers are decreasing year after year, and now there are fewer than 10,000 tofu sellers in Japan.\nTimes are getting tougher for these independent tofu providers due to a hike in the cost of soy beans. Supermarkets and grocery stores are demanding lower prices from tofu makers, and independent tofu makers that sell tofu have to compete with the price of cheap mass‐produced tofu, amid Japan's economic stagflation.\nThe news reverberated on Twitter, where users recalled the tofu makers in their own communities and commented on the state of the industry.\nJournalist <PERSON> wrote anxiously in response to the news report:\n「豆腐の安売りが激しくなっており、どこも経営が苦しい。適正な価格でスーパーに卸すなど販売価格を見直さないと、豆腐屋はいずれなくなってしまう」と。それは困る！ →豆腐店、続々廃業「３６５日働いても利益ない」（読売新聞） http://t.co/QPt3jrhYLq\n— <PERSON> (@amneris84) November 2, 2013\nThe report says “The price competition of tofu is increasing, and tofu makers are having a difficult time.If tofu makers don't review the price or start selling their tofu to supermarkets, they will disappear.” Now that is a problem! ―Tofu makers closing down businesses, say there's no profit despite being open 365 days―\nTwitter user <PERSON> expressed feelings of powerlessness, and commented in grief that despite her personal effort to support the community tofu maker by intentionally avoiding mega-stores that sell tofu, it didn't make a difference:\n大手スーパーに、食の文化も安全も乗っ取られてはいけない・・と、できるだけ近所のお店で買い物をするようにしている。 でも、町の美味しいお豆腐屋さんもなくなってしまった。 ■豆腐店、続々廃業「３６５日働いても利益ない」 http://t.co/tNbtTyLy4o …\n— 城山キーウィ (@ShiroPineapple) November 2, 2013\nI have always made the effort to visit local stores instead of going to a big supermarket, yet my favorite tofu seller in the community closed up shop. ―TTofu makers closing down businesses, say there's no profit despite being open 365 days―\nPhoto of a tofu store taken by Flickr user vintagecat (CC BY-NC-ND 2.0)\n<PERSON> recommended that people take a hard look at the consequences of cheap tofu prices:\n他生産品が値上げするなか低価格のままは確かに歪んでる。無理な低価格は食の安全を脅かすことにも繋がりかねない。安いことは喜ばしいけど、我々も安さの裏側をもっと見なくちゃ。", "925" ], [ "“Let Us Dream”: Demonstrating Against Unified Job Hunting in Japan · Global Voices\nEach spring, the job hunting season starts and Japanese students in their third year of university start preparing by suiting up, attending seminars and job fairs, and having bouts of soul searching. They apply to dozens of companies, each with multiple rounds of examinations and interviews, until they receive one or several job offers.\nThe process can take up a large chunk of the last two years of school; a mentally and physically draining time that eats into one’s self-confidence.\n\"Job Hunting Seminar for Sophomore Students\" by Flickr user <PERSON> (CC BY-NC 2.0).\nOn Labor Day, students held demonstrations in Tokyo and Kyoto to rally against this system, expressing anger towards the irrational hoops and hurdles that impede on studying time. The demonstration also criticized the commercialization of job hunting, pointing fingers to several major online student/company matching services that play a big part in the ecosystem of the practice.\nThe organizers used blogs and Twitter (@syukatsu_tokyo and @S_demo_Kyoto) to call for support, and eventually round up more than a hundred demonstrators.\n@syukatsu_tokyo: 【拡散願】とうとう後2日！就活ぶっこわせデモ、水曜日13時半アルタ前集合です！！行こうか行くまいか迷っているそこのあなた！！遠目に見てるだけでも構わない！ぜひ新宿アルタ前に！ #就活デモ\n[Please RT] Two more days to go! We will be gathering for the demonstration to abolish university graduate job recruitment practices in front of the Shinjuku Alta building at 1:30 p.m.", "925" ], [ "on Wednesday! Still undecided? Just come to watch, then. Meet up in front of Shinjuku Alta!\nThis is one of their messages:\n@hosyukakumei: 競争はあってもいいと思うんんだけど、共生を目指したいんです。同じ日本人通しで勝ち組とか負け組とかいうレッテルを貼りあうのはもういい加減やめませんか？少なくとも私はそういう不毛な争いに疲れました。 #就活デモ\nCompetition is fine, but we'd like to aim for peaceful coexistence. Couldn’t we just stop the cavalier labels of “winners” and “losers” among ourselves? I, at least, am tired of such unproductive conflicts.\nThe Tokyo organizers report that more than 1,000 people watched the live stream, while the archived footage garnered over 6,000 views.\nThe demonstration gathered attention in the online sphere. Many commented that the intent of the demonstration was unclear, although there were some that supported the act of having a demonstration.\n@yatabe_: 就活ぶっこわせデモを傍観してきたけど（参加はしてない）主張がなくて何が言いたいのかわかんなかった。試みは面白いだけに非常に残念。「就活くたばれ」「○○ナビ潰れろ」「ゆとりにゆとりを」「夢を見させろ」って叫びながら歩いてたけど、わがまま言ってるようにしか聞こえなかった。 #就活デモ\nI went to watch the demonstration against graduate job recruitment practices from the sidelines (I did not participate in it), but there was no emphasis on any particular point.", "925" ], [ "Top 4 Buzzwords that People in Japan Couldn’t Stop Saying in 2013 · Global Voices\nIn 2013, Japan had variety of newly introduced phrases and words. Image by <PERSON>\nAmong the slew of new and popular words to emerge in Japan this year, only four have risen above the rest to win the honor of the 2013 New Buzzwords Award [ja], an annual distinction handed out by distance learning company U-Can and publishing firm Liberal National.\nIn an unprecedented result, the four winners tied for first place out of 50 nominees. They are:\n1. Imadesho!\nMeaning “how 'bout now?!”, the phrase was made popular by <PERSON>, a lecturer who teaches modern Japanese at a specialized school known as a cram school, after he used it in a commercial for the school, saying that it was about time that the viewer start studying for exams.\n2. O-mo-te-na-shi\nSimply the spelling aloud of the Japanese word “omotenashi”, meaning hospitality, this buzzword was introduced to the Japanese language by <PERSON>, a news presenter who spoke at the final Olympic bid meeting for Japan.", "243" ], [ "Hospitality and warm welcomes that are deeply rooted in Japanese society.\n3. Jejeje\nMeaning “What? What?! WHAT!?”, the phrase entered the public's vocabulary thanks to the 2013 widely popular television drama “Amachan.” This is part of a dialect used by the main character who is from the Tohoku region to express surprise. She tries to become a celebrity idol in Tokyo, and finally returns to Tohoku to help revitalize the area after the Great East Japan Earthquake.\n4. Baigaeshi\nAlso from a popular television drama, “baigaeshi” means “two-fold payback” or “revenge” and is the catchphrase of the main character on “Hanazawa Naoki,” a banker who stands up to his unreasonable boss.\nTwitter user <PERSON> commented about the television link between all four of the top words:\n流行語大賞。４つ選ばれたものすべてがテレビ由来ということは、テレビの影響力はまだまだ大きいってことだよね。\n— <PERSON> (@yukihiro_matz) 2013, 12月 2\nWith the Buzzwords Award, the fact that all four selected words have some basis in television just goes to show that television’s sphere of influence is larger than before.\nAmong others that entered into the top ten on the list announced on December 2, 2013 was “hate speech”, a word that was on the lips of many in 2013, a year that saw anti-Korea protesters, angry over the popularity of Korean products on the Japanese market, grow more vocal.\nOther words in the top ten included “PM 2.5”, as it is commonly called, or atmospheric pollution in the form of particulate matter, which became a buzzword stoked by fears that neighboring China's pollution is reaching Japan; “Secret Protection Bill,” a controversial bill that would toughen penalties for leaking national secrets; and “Abenomics,” a sort of slogan for the administration of President <PERSON>’s economic policies.\nAscii art used to describe gekiokopunpunmaru, a new buzzword used in 2013 to express one's anger\nNet Buzzwords Award\nAnother award, this time the “Net Buzzword Award [ja],” which was announced on December 2, seemed to generate even more talk. The award, which highlights popular words from the Internet, is carried out by a Japan's search engine company, and decided by users from 2chan, an online bulletin board, who cast their votes [ja] on what they think were the most well-noted phrases of the year.\nThe Net Buzzwords Award also awarded the top spot to “Imadesho!”, while “Baigaeshi” took third. In second place was “gekiokopunpunmaru”, a phrase that childishly expresses extreme anger in the form of an onomatopoeia and therefore is fairly difficult to translate into English.", "925" ], [ "Japan: “The Light and Darkness of Social Media” · Global Voices\nThis post is part of our special coverage Japan Earthquake 2011.\nIt's human nature for rumors to run rampant in a high pressure situation, and social meda tools can be a double-edged sword in expediting this situation. <PERSON> gives an analysis in his blog post “The Light and Darkness of Social Media” (ソーシャルメディアがもつ光と闇), drawing parallels between social media usage and consumption of mass media.\n<PERSON> is a widely respected Web designer, developer, and consultant in Tokyo. He tweets in Japanese at @yhassy.\nThe following post was translated in its entirety under the terms of CC BY-NC-SA 2.1.\nSocial media played a great role during the revolution in Egypt at the beginning of this year. Now more than ever, people are calling to leverage social media for public/social activities.\nHowever, the praise for the true power and utility of social media in the case of Egypt started me thinking, “The next time there is some kind of sweeping social change, we’ll probably start seeing the dark side of social media, too”. Maybe this is because I like to play devil’s advocate, but still, that fact withstanding…\nSocial media helped me in a couple of ways during the Great Tohoku-Kanto Earthquake. While cell phone services were completely shut down, social media acted as the information lifeline. It was the only way to communicate with friends and family.\nThis was a luxury I had because I wasn’t in an afflicted area, but it’s probably safe to say that most people were not in a situation where they had absolutely no information at all.\nThroughout the disaster, I experienced the “light” of social media but at the same time, I saw “darkness” as well. This might have also happened in Egypt but it has risen to the surface now that I’ve experienced it in the Japanese language.\nMany people still have not realized the actual social capability of social media. The advent of the Web in our lives brought forth an enormous amount of information. At the same time, it gave us the capability to broadcast information, almost as easily as we can attain it. There is no need to write anymore. All one needs to do is press a button, and many people will receive the information.\nLet us ask ourselves, are we diffusing information before fully digesting its meaning? Do we experience a mental block that makes us forget to check the facts when we see the words “Pls RT? Are we mindlessly taking part in strange festival-like fervor on social media, whether or not we actually agree with the opinions?\nHaving sociability means taking actions with the responsibility of being on common ground.", "243" ], [ "It is important to have good sociability especially when using social media; where it could be ambiguous whether you are either receiver or messenger.\nAll in all, many “social media users” are still similar to those who establish their values by consuming the information on TV and magazines. People are still passive. We have the capability of sharing information, but perhaps at the same time, underestimate its power.\nSocial media is one of the platforms that allows people to connect to one another. The strong connection between the users can work to amplify emotions. These emotions can at times be positive but can also be negative, inducing fear and hatred. The degree of this amplification can become severe for users that passively accept information to then pass it on to others, forgoing any process of factual scrutiny.\nI’m not trying to say that social media should not be used by those with low information literacy. One can only learn to use social media to its full extent by becoming exposed to many kinds of information, by learning how the information is used by others, and by trying things out. As mentioned above, social media provides countless sources of light; we can’t afford not to use it.\nHowever, we should be conscious about the act of sending out information to others, and remind ourselves to be critical about the information we receive. It is important to have this kind of attitude when using social media, especially in a time like this when information can be shared with a single click. I consider this to be the first step to prevent social media from entering into darkness.\nSocial Media Wordle by Flickr user <PERSON> (CC BY-NC-SA 2.0)\nAddendum\nThis article was first posted to a Facebook group. Some users have already pointed out mistakes and have commented on it. One comment in particular referred to Movatwi, the Internet application that allows non-smartphone users to use Twitter on their cell phones.", "339" ], [ "Japan: The Trouble with ‘Free’ Money · Global Voices\nAs part of an economic stimulus package, the Japanese government is spending two trillion JPY for cash handouts to boost consumer spending. To put it simply, all Japanese citizens and those registered as residents all Japanese citizens in the Basic Resident Register and those registered in the Foreign Resident Register will receive 12,000 JPY, or 20,000 JPY for those under 18 or over 65, once they've lodged their application forms.\nLocal municipalities are in charge of the administration, an unwelcome increase in workload that coincides with the change of the fiscal year. As of mid-April, around half of the municipalities have sent out application forms to their residents. Soka City in Saitama Prefecture and Obu City in Aichi Prefecture offer English translations of the program overview.\nby flickr user alleN, used with permission\nBringing to mind a similar program conducted in 1999 that is now commonly regarded as a failure, the program is highly unpopular with the public, mainly because the actual economic effect is unclear.", "925" ], [ "The government expects an increase in real consumption expenditure by 0.2%, but there seems to be no clear consensus on how much of the two trillion yen will actually go to new spending. Predictions range from 20% to 60% and everything in between.\nFor the past couple of months, polls have shown that many Japanese view the program as a clumsy and condescending ploy to gain ratings by the Aso Cabinet.\nAt <PERSON>'s blog — whose post on the subprime problem was recognized at 2008 Alpha Blogger Awards– the two ASCII characters <PERSON> and <PERSON>, talking about the government's initiative, say:\nそんなの決まってるお！選挙のために大した効果もないのに2兆円もバラまいて支持率を上げようとしてるんだお！\nなるほど。予想通りの解答だな… じゃあ聞くが、国民の半分以上が評価していない定額給付金を実施して 本当に支持率は上がると思うか\n<PERSON>: Isn't it obvious? Prime Minister <PERSON> is trying to raise his approval ratings for elections by distributing two trillion yen, even though the economic impact is trivial!\n<PERSON>: That's what I thought you'd say. Let me ask this, do you really think that his approval ratings will increase with the execution of a program which more than half of the Japanese are against?\nCoupled with other factors however, including highway toll discounts, it just might be working. Recently, Asahi Shimbun has reported that Prime Minister <PERSON>'s approval ratings have risen 4% to 26% since March.\nBlogger tetsu makes a pun on Teigaku kyufu kin(定額給付金), which literally translates as ‘handouts of a fixed amount’.\n本来なら「低額還付金」とか命名するべき。最も正確には「無駄に取り過ぎてた税金を、支持率が２割切った与党が苦し紛れに現金をばら撒こうって思いついた稀代の愚策金」だな。\nくれぐれも間違えないように。定額給付金は“もらう”んじゃないよ～。“ちょっぴり返してもらう”だけだよ～。\nTeigaku kyufu kin(定額給付金) should be called teigaku kanpu kin (低額還付金) – ‘return of a small amount’ or more accurately, ‘a desperate attempt at using excess taxes to hand out cash by a ruling party whose approval rates are under 20%’.\nMake no mistake!", "925" ] ]

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[ [ "Light Palate--Selective Lighting for Your Next Feast\nIntroduction: Light Palate--Selective Lighting for Your Next Feast\nThe permutations that fine food has gone through in the last 20 years has been quite amazing. Every nuance has been tweaked and romanced over. Growing up in the midwest where food was taken in merely to prevent bodily collapse until that one day when we went to McDonalds for the first time and I inhaled a burger that was so beyond the usual taste limits that my whole world changed. Things could taste really good! Older with kids I found the burgers nearly intolerable--they had descended to the lower edge of the taste spectrum over the years supplanted by deep dish pizza, barbecue and fresh salmon on a cedar plank.\nIn this instructable I wanted to up the game slightly by extending our taste spectrum with a light spectrum tweak. You can think of it as a Phillips light for food. I built a hanging light outfitted with Neopixels that are controlled by a light sensor that is primed by the food that we place underneath it. In this way the color of the presented food is augmented by a color boost along with the usual wavelengths additional LED's are recruited to bring up its color subtleties. The Microcontroller presents the color spectrum that was analyzed and using an algorithm balances out the best frequency. You can also subtly adjust this level with a manual override. The system also works for flowers, objects of art and anything else you might want to appear more tempting.\nStep 1: Gather Your Materials\nThe hanging lamp is made out of 52 mm aluminum speed-rail which can be found in any large city with a metal supplier. This is not a requirement and it can also be fabricated out of PVC or any other tube material but of course it would suffer from ugliness.\n1. Aluminum Speed Rail--52mm X 26 Inches $20\n2. TTGO T-Display ESP32 CP2104 WiFi bluetooth Module 1.14 Inch LCD Development Board $11\n3. Adafruit AS7262 6-Channel Visible Light / Color Sensor Breakout $19\n4. Adafruit NeoPixel Digital RGB LED Strip - White 60 LED - WHITE $24 about 3 m\n5. 1/16 in. x 50 ft. Galvanized Vinyl Coated Steel Wire Rope $10\n6. Aluminum Alloy Coupling Shaft Coupler Motor Coupler Connector - 7# $5\n7.", "769" ], [ "Power Supply--ALITOVE 5V 8A 40W AC to DC Adapter Power Supply Converter Transformer 5.5x2.1mm $18\nStep 2: 3D Print Your Parts\nOnly a couple of parts need to be 3D printed for the lightPalate. The two end plates--one that contains the Microcontroller and the other a blank disc. One baffle to cover the parts connections on the microcontroller end and the cable attachments inside the housing. They keep the power cables that the unit hangs from making connection with the aluminum housing and shorting it out. They also have built in channels to allow for better cable wrangling. The other part is the insulator that hold the head of the touch control screw from contacting the aluminum housing. The parts are all printed without support out of standard PLA and then painted with Aluminum spray paint to match the housing.\nStep 3: Build Your Housing\nThis type of aluminum is very soft and can be easily cut with a metal blade saber saw in a freehand fashion. A straight outline is done of the horizontal cutout. The ends gentle curves are usually outlined with a flexible french curve template to make them smooth. The smoothing of the final curves was done with a dremmel drum sander and a bench sander. Final smoothing was done with a random orbit sander. The housing was then sandblasted with fine grit to give an overall smooth finish both inside and out. Holes were drilled in the top to accommodate the support wires. Additional holes were drilled to fit the opening for the AS7262 6-Channel Visible Color Sensor and the touch control screw-head. These were done with a step-drill. Final painting was done with Valspar top coat flat finish to the outside of the housing and the inside was painted with a flat white spray paint to reflect light.\nStep 4: Add Neopixels\nThe Neopixels are stripped of their silicon covers to allow them to be directly mounted to the inside of the lightPalate housing. Approximately 3 meters of neopixels was used in the project but you can increase this to bolster the lighting intensity as much as you want. The NeoPixel strands are glued directly to the painted inner liner with E7000 glue. You don't really have to worry about the strands shorting out with contact with metal except at the ends where the wires are attached. These areas are problematic and should be covered heavily with liquid electrical tape insulator fluid--a great product.", "996" ], [ "WetRuler--Kitchen Helpers for the Visually Impaired\nIntroduction: WetRuler--Kitchen Helpers for the Visually Impaired\nI have worked most of my adult life with patients with vision problems in Alaska and pondered building a helpful device that would enable a more defined way of metering out fluids in a kitchen if users had no central vision. There are devices already for defining the limits of a cup with two wires that form a circuit at a set level but none actually measure different fluid levels. Most people just end up putting a finger into a hot liquid as its poured.\nThe sensors in these devices turn on with a button push and immediately read a baseline atmospheric pressure in a thin measuring tube. The sensor tube is then placed in the liquid whose depth you want to read and algorithms calculate how deep the tube is. All design considerations are based on size including the ATTiny85 for the microcontroller, small PCB, and a coin cell battery for power. The beeping sensor transmits its information by modulating its call for each inch of depth and the \"smart\" funnel slowly increases its yodeling as the tip goes deeper into the liquid. I designed these two little guys for fun but the inherent applicability of the design can be used for a variety of circumstances where fluid level cannot be well visualized and a tiny brain could help you.\nThe devices are made with silicon tubing and food level stainless steel straws at their sense apertures but the maker is left to his own devices for of food safety.\nStep 1: Gather Your Materials\nThere are just a couple components that are needed for this build. The heart is the MP3V5004GP-ND sensor that costs about $13. It is great for measuring small volume changes in water height and have found it to be an adequate analog sensor even for AD convertor inside the ATTiny. The buzzer is generic --you just want something with a low current as there is no transistor in this circuit and the tiny must provide all the power. The demands of this circuit are small---only being on when needed with the pushbutton and the output signal will be turned off right away so the coin cell battery is appropriate. The circuit design can be easily modified to include other power supplies or switching--even solar.\n1. MP3V5004GP-ND get at Digikey for $13\n2. Push button -- generic $0\n3. Battery holder CR2025 --WMYCONGCONG 30 PCS CR2032 CR2025 Coin Button Cell Battery Amazon $0\n4. ATTiny85--Original Atmel Dip-8 ATTINY85-20PU Tiny85-20Pu Ic Chip Pack Of 5Pcs $2\n5. Dip 8 Socket -- for ATTiny $0\n6.", "440" ], [ "Silicon tubing 2mm inside diameter $1\n7. Stainless Drinking Straws -- $0\n8. Battery coin cell CR2025 -- $1\n9. Buzzer --BNYZWOT Electromagnetic Active Buzzer Long Continous Beep Tone Alarm Ringer for Arduino $0\nStep 2: Wire It\nThe above is a screen shot from Eagle design file. It is the companion PCB design system that works with Fusion 360. I have included the files necessary for ordering your own boards that make this project so tiny. It was the easiest thing to order this summer--$5 for 10 boards and they came in about 5 days from China...it still amazes me. (PCBWAY--I don't make $ from anyone I mention).\nThe wiring is totally simple. Power from the battery goes to the switch and from there to both the ATTiny and the sensor. The sensor analog wire goes to the AD convertor on the ATTiny (A1) and the output from the ATTiny (0) goes to the + lead of the buzzer and the ground in the system goes to ATTiny, Sensor, and Buzzer.\nYou can easily build this unit without the need for a PCB by dead-bug wiring. Most of the early testing was done this way. The PCB just makes it a lot neater for inclusion in the case. When wiring the PCB make sure you add all the components before you place the battery holder on the back as it covers up some of the solder spots--a consequence of making it smaller in size. You might still want to place the sensor on a PCB of its own just for stability sake.\nStep 3: Print It\nAll design work is done in Fusion 360. Both designs use the same box framework that have identical matching front plates. The frontispiece can be changed to accommodate larger buttons and On/Off switches. It is held on by snap fit attachments and is designed for easy replacement of the CR2025 battery. The smart funnel has an extruded tube that is contiguous with the funnel drain and allows the silicon tube of the sensor to be parallel to it.", "996" ], [ "BikeEverest\nIntroduction: BikeEverest\nA champion biker from Alaska--<PERSON>--in a 21-hour nonstop stretch over the this Memorial Day weekend, made 13 trips up and down a 9-mile stretch of local Hatcher Pass Road to complete the Everest climbing challenge. The goal for participating cyclists: ride the hill of their choice over and over until they climb 29,029 feet — the height of Mount Everest. This is a talented biker who held the woman's record for the Continental Divide Race as well as first place finish in the unsupported Trans Am Bike Race. We are very proud of our slim local sports talent pool. To emulate her effort I thought it would be fun to just notch off a few feet here and there and over the course of days, weeks, or months mount my own challenge. For those of you interested in keeping track of arbitrary heights gained with your bike in your casual weekend rides I have provided instructions on how to build a monitor that will eventually announce to the world that you too have completed the Everest Challenge!\nThe device is rechargeable and sleeps most of the time and has a E-Paper screen that provides you with diverting pictures of the mountain.\nStep 1: Gather Your Materials\nThis build is incredibly simple and easily made. The ease of putting it together is based on the nesting features of Adafruit Feather boards and screen. The only additional add-ons are a switch for power, a rechargeable battery and the newly released BMP 388 altimeter.\n1. Adafruit HUZZAH32 – ESP32 Feather Board $19 You can use a different Feather -- the advantage of the ESP is it goes to sleep so easily.\n2. Adafruit 2.13\" Monochrome eInk / ePaper Display FeatherWing - 250x122 Monochrome $21 You can also use the three color one with red to jazz it up.\n3. Adafruit BMP388 - Precision Barometric Pressure and Altimeter--$9\n4. 600mah Rechargeable battery --- $2\n5. On/Off switch --$1\nStep 2: 3D Print It\nThe case is made in two pieces that are easily printed without support in PLA. PETG may hold up to the elements a little better--and I would use it preferentially if you live in someplace hot like Tucson --- doing your Everest going up Mt Lemon! The insets are designed to take 3mm metric heat inserts into the base. The Screws go through the slightly undersized holes in the screen that must be enlarged with a 3mm bit. If you want a slightly bigger battery you can increase the depth of the upper case with little trouble.", "33" ], [ "The side port for accommodating programing and charging of the battery is built into the file. The flattened area at the back of the base is to attach the mount for the bicycle handlebar. The line knurling on the back of the case is done by adding a screw pattern in an early step.\nStep 3: Wire It\nThere really isn't much to the wiring of this device so I didn't include a wiring diagram. The ease of just soldering some male headers onto the ESP32 allows you to easily mesh it to the receiving side of the E-Paper screen. This connects all the complicated pins in the SPI interface along with all the pins to control the build in SD memory card. The only thing that requires wiring is the BMP 388 which comes from Adafruit on a I2C breakout board. Nicely, you don't have to add any pull-ups to make it work. Just solder wires to the Power, Ground, SCL and SDA and attach them to the female hook-ups on the Feather E-paper screen. I used some male header pins and just soldered the connector wires to them and pushed them home. A few dabs of hot glue holds these connections in place to the 3V, GND, SCL and SDA on the main board. (You will probably become bored with this device soon and want to build something else with these expensive components.) The battery is connected with JST connector to the ESP32 with a switch placed on the Power line to turn the device on and off. To charge the unit you must have it on the ON position.\nStep 4: Build It\nThe BMP 388 fits very nicely nested between the Feather E-paper screen and the ESP32. The case has the battery tucked at the bottom and the only modifications are for your preferred switch mounting position. You can easily add a more subtle slide switch. The case is not designed to be waterproof although you can make additional modifications in the design to help prevent water ingress. The E-paper screen is held in place with the 3 mm screws going through the modified screen holes and supported by small spacers underneath the screen.", "611" ], [ "End of Days Clock\nIntroduction: End of Days Clock\nThe days got shorter here in Alaska until it felt like the murky light was only a short interruption of a long sleep so I built a clock to display the seasonal diminishment (and expansion) of time. It also displays when it snows and how the tide is doing out there in the inky ice-choked sea. The neat display is another variation on wrangling the power of programmable LED's to make them suitable for human eye consumption. In this case I am using a hemicircle of aluminum to reflect a moving mini tableaux that is a perfect accompaniment for the FASTLED framework of palettes.\nThe minimal hardware of a ESP32 jumps onto to your WIFI and gets information from both the NOAA website for tides and time information and also joins the Open Weather Map API for advice about the snow conditions. The device also displays an animated graphic of the current temperature that's easily read from a distance and can be built into really any size device that you want. The end of days animation is a growing dark blue shadow that moves over a rainbow mapped to the limited daylight that it calculates every hour. The slow triumph of the rainbow over the shadow has just starting last week! The tidal animations show a murky moving blue sea underlaying a moving sky palette that changes depending on the time of day. Anyway, its something for you and your cat to look at for the next couple months.\nStep 1: Gather Your Materials\nThis project is easy to build with minimal materials but provides big impact for its size and animations. There is no correct size for the projection surface. Where before I utilized a closed tube with a hanging section of LEDs mounted on a rigid strip this new design is made possible by the availability of side mount led strip that can now be suspended by its own silicon shell from the ends of the tube section. The tube section itself can be made out of any material...plastic from the big box plumbing store but I built mine from aluminum for the look.\n1. Section of 60 inch aluminum speed rail tube (ID 2\") cut with a saber saw into a 2 inch wide section. With testing, this reflective curvature from a suspension distance of about two inches, enabled the best graphics.\n2. One-meter of Adafruit NeoPixel LED Side Light Strip - Black 60 LED $18\n3. D1 mini ESP32 ESP-32 WiFi+Bluetooth\n4. Waterproof DC Power Cable Set - 5.5/2.1mm\n5. Power block 4A 5V--$10\n6.", "51" ], [ "LuckIn 20-Pack 1/2 x 1 Inch Stainless Steel Standoff Screws, Mounting Glass Hardware Sign $2\nStep 2: Build It\nThe tube section is easily cut with a metal saber saw blade after carefully outlining its shape on the speed tube. The cut may be fairly ragged and uneven but some moderate sanding with a table top sanding belt and a hand sander will bring it into true rather easily. The edge should be sanded until it has a flat profile and won't cut your hand when handling it. The mounts at the top and bottom are for the stainless support posts from amazon and you can adjust their position and size depending on how large the mounting holes are and the length of your LED strip. The other side of the mounts that connect your instrument to the wall are made of excess curved sections of aluminum tube --the curve allows bolting the mounts into the curve that keeps it off of the wall. The surface treatment of the outside of the aluminum can be done with either fine wet dry sandpaper or can be sandblasted for delicate flat natural surface that can be painted with flat poly. The inside reflective surface has to be painted with a flat white paint with multiple coats to give it projective surface.\nStep 3: 3D Print It\nThe 3D parts are all designed on Fusion 360. They form the support structure for the silicon sleeve and hold it in a taught vertical position. The slot on the bottom of the top and bottom holders accommodate the screw mounts for the stainless standoff supports. The separate bottom curved pieces enable the support structures to fit well onto the curved projection wing. Two connector structures are printed without support in PLA. Two covers and two curved underpieces are also printed. The case for the computer and power stud are also printed without support in PLA. The case has a screw cover that can be made more water resistant with an application of silicon grease.\nStep 4: Wire It\nThe wiring for this project is very easy. Attach the power plug to the +5 V and ground on the ESP32. The data line from the LED's is connected to 17. The power and ground from the LED's are also connected to the power plug. It is best to connect a large capacitor between ground and power in these Neopixel LED set ups and connect a small resistor to the data control line.", "996" ], [ "Your House 3D Printed for the Birds\nIntroduction: Your House 3D Printed for the Birds\nI have been 3D printing model versions of peoples houses as birdhouse housewarming gifts for several years. It is a great present and really easy to do. Building birdhouses is a wonderful side hobby that started me off in Instructables with this one: https://www.instructables.com/Bentwood-Birdhouse/ amazingly that birdhouse is still hanging outside through all these Alaskan winters. Whether they sit forlorn and unused and take on a natural patina or are enlivened with the movement of bird families is really immaterial--they provide for customization of our living space that used to be so commonplace. When you have to ask your homeowners association if you can put up a garden troll the joy of scanning your home for signs that you actually live there is greatly diminished. To spice things up I will show you my easy method for making a bird house doppelgänger of your current living situation. After modifying it for a cleanup access and adding a hole or two for the birds you can 3D print it. For those of you that are living in a house that's already 3D printed you can just download your plans as a STL file set CURA to 1% and your done!\nStep 1: Gather Your Materials\nThis is a real simple project. All that is required are a copy of Fusion 360 and a 3D printer. Fusion 360 is a wonderful piece of software that I have used in just about every one of my Instructables. It is easy to use and there are a ton of How-To videos on the web for implementation. They provide an Educational License for home tinkerers and teachers. The one limit with 3D printing for this project is the size of the birdhouse. I have a Creality CR-10 which has an enormous print bed size limit especially in the Z direction. This allows you to turn the print on its top or side diminishing the number of overhangs and support features. The alternative is to divide up your house into printable chunks and then superglue them together---nice to have a modular looking house to make this easily happen.\nStep 2: Take a House Photo\nYou will be uploading this photo into your design software so try to make it as close to straight on and as flat a perspective as possible. This will allow you to adapt the composite pieces of your model house to the graphical perspective of your real one. This is a cartoon interpretation of your home into a small one; not anything that will be used by LEGO to make a 1000 piece model.", "646" ], [ "Choose the face of the building that you will want in front. All your want is the basic structure and relative size and shape of the roof angles. Save the photo to your desktop for use in the next section.\nStep 3: Design It\nThe first step is importing your house photo into Fusion 360. I will not get into the details of installing the program and setting it up on your machine. Start a new design and under Insert select Canvas and choose a flat plane to import the image taken in the last step. This is your last opportunity for moving and centering the image to your x-y plane. This is also the time to enlarge or shrink the image to the size that is accommodated by your printers build surface. You will also be able to do this in your slicer software so don't despair if your creation grows slightly in the design you can always fine tune in the end. My bird houses have been in the range of 20 to 30 cm. Of note this is a great time to learn to calibrate the view if you are bringing in a design of a PCB layout or some other picture and you want it to scale. Open the arrow associated with the canvas to reveal the IMG listing of the photo and right click it--this will allow you to reEdit the photo and adjust the calibration to exactly the right size for your design.\nThe process for building this house model is pretty simple but of course it will vary with every house design. In this case the design was basically four blocks with tilted roofs. I designed the first cube to the correct roof dimensions and placed a plane in the center so I could angle the roof lines from it. Under tools I cambered the two roof lines until they matched the photo. I then drafted (Tools) the two front window panels to match their angle in the photo. I then placed two cubes primitives on either side and made a roof triangle drawing to match the rooflines and Press-Pulled it out into the intersecting roof shape. I then mirrored the shape on the other half. The garage was added in the same way. I provided the design files for you in case you want to see how all the details were done.", "110" ], [ "Miniature CO2 Monitor With Alarm\nIntroduction: Miniature CO2 Monitor With Alarm\nI have recently been spending a lot of time indoors working with human breathing physiology. Prior Instructables have used O2 and CO2 sensors and I had tried switching to a new one from Sensirion SCD 41. It is very tiny and uses a new type of sensing for the level of CO2 ...acoustic something or other. The previous version: SCD 30 works really fast and has a wide detection range...it is based on laser CO2 light absorption. When experimenting with the small model I found its speed too slow for my use and the range limiting so I was looking for something else to build with them. I have put together a short instructable on how to built a elegant very tiny CO2 sampler for home or school use. It uses the raw SCD 41 that is usually surface mounted or you can obtain it already mounted on a trial board but it is so much bulkier and not as much fun to put together. The other requirement was that it be unobtrusive and have a tiny buzzer to alert the occupants that the boring stream of data had gone over some limit--much like a fire alarm. Naturally it would have to have an App to graph your data stream and keep it locally on your phone.\nStep 1: Gather Your Materials\nThere are only 3 components to this project. Total cost about $50.\n1. 3v buzzer CMI-1295IC-0385T -- digikey $1\n2. SCD 41 -- Digikey $42\n3. TTGO T-Display ESP32 CP2104 WiFi bluetooth Module 1.14 Inch LCD Development Board $11\nThe SCD41 also comes as a development board from a variety of sources--some have STEMMA QT connectors for easy hookup. These boards would make the whole unit considerably bigger but the all the rest of the components would be the same.\nStep 2: 3D Print Your Parts\nThere are only 3 parts to this tiny instrument. All parts are printed in PLA with no support.\nStep 3: Wire It\nThe only difficult part is wiring up the tiny SCD 41, but that's what makes it fun. Use as small a gauge of wire that you have available. Clamp the unit to stabilize it. Make sure you have the wiring diagram at hand and orient the unit to correctly wire each unit. One of the pads is trimmed to orient the unit. The five connections include the VDD, GND, SDA and SCL (all on the lower tier) and DDH across from the VDD. This is connected to power so you can either connect across or connect it to power when you splice the wires to the TTGO.", "152" ], [ "Use plenty of flux on the pads and place a tiny ball of solder on each one prior to attaching the wires. Place a tiny ball of solder on the ends of each wire to enable an easy connection with minimal heat. Solder the wires to the appropriate pads. Carefully hot glue the wires into position to prevent tearing of the small connections. The I2c connections are made through GPIO 21 and 22. Power and Ground and provided through the 3 Volt connector on the board. The buzzer is connected to GPIO 13 and to GND. The power to the board is connected from the USB back connector to the 5 Volt connector and GND on the board. A small color LED is spliced into the power connection to the sensor.\nStep 4: Build It\nThe power for this unit comes from a 3D printed USB connection unit located on its back. I wanted some power option that was minimal in form so that it could easily slipped into any power block or a USB port on the side of a computer. The USB printed unit has two thin indents that accommodate two small strips of copper foil. Carefully trim the copper to fit the two indents and superglue them into position. The wires that connect power and ground go through the back of the unit. Use plenty of flux to make soldering easy to the copper strips. Connect the wires at the base of the copper strip so that the soldering blob does not extend onto the open areas where the USB connects. Superglue the USB connector onto the back of the unit after you run the wires through the holes. Place the TTGO unit into included slots in the holder. The CO2 sensor unit and tiny buzzer nest with the wires in the upper chamber of the unit. The LED sits near the openings for air movement. Make sure that the USB-C connection for the TTGO is available for programming through the open slot. Check to see if the unit functions correctly and finally superglue the face plate into position.\nStep 5: Program It\nMost of the program is taken from the Sensirion App programming for the SCD-30 unit but switched for the SCD-41. It uses a couple custom fonts included in the program.", "635" ], [ "Accurate VO2 Max for Zwift and Strava\nIntroduction: Accurate VO2 Max for Zwift and Strava\nHuman bodies are engines that utilize oxygen to burn fuel. Humans are not built with gauges and checking to see how the human engine is running is usually based on things we find easy to measure--pulse, Blood pressure. These do not directly tell us how the engine is burning its fuel. Measuring the amount of oxygen used with exertion provides better information on how hard the bodies engine is working--the equivalent of looking at the gauges on your cars dashboard. My previous work on measuring the components of exercise physiology were encumbering and not elegant enough to make them easily portable: https://www.instructables.com/Real-VO2Max-Measure... So after being introduced to the joys of Zwift bicycling with a Wahoo trainer I built a device that enables you to accurately add VO2 Max to the bluetooth information displayed on the Zwift screen animation while you are peddling along. The device also easily pairs with the Strava app for providing VO2 Max data for all your trail excursions. It substitutes VO2 max information for the heart rate sensor data in both of these popular exercise programs. The device is portable and lightweight with Wifi and Bluetooth capabilities and is easily worn with a modified 3M mask designed to be comfortable for long term use. I have tested the device for other sports including cross-country skiing and skating but its portability and wireless transmission capacity make it amenable to just about any sport other than swimming. The device also communicates with an App for the iPhone which enables graphing and long term data storage and download for ancillary calculations. The output includes continuous output of VO2, calories consumed, volumes of expired gas, as well as performing such functions as Basal Metabolic Rate. The device is easily made for about $100. Parts are all readily available and the case is 3D printed. It can be assembled in about 10 minutes. We tested the device in a physiology lab against a $60,000 machine and found it gave the about the same results.\nStep 1: Gather Your Parts\nThere are only four main parts to the unit. A differential pressure sensor, an oxygen sensor--both connected by I2C to a TTGO Esp32 microcontroller with screen. A Lipo Battery with switch completes the unit. The original unit included a Laser CO2 sensor and an analogue version of the differential pressure sensor. The digital version of the sensor was found to be much more accurate and with a better range of 1--250 Pa.\n1.", "152" ], [ "TTGO T-Display ESP32 CP2104 WiFi bluetooth Module 1.14 Inch LCD Development Board $11\n2. Omron--D6F-PH0025AD2--$40 from Digikey\n3. Gravity: I2C Oxygen Sensor--$50 from DF Robot\n4. Lipo Battery -- $5 1000 Mah\n5. Switch ON/OFF ---$1\n6. PARTICULATE RESPIRATR MASK -- 3M $20 Digikey (you don't really care about the filtration on this mask they are removed)\nStep 2: 3D Print Your Parts\nAll parts are printed in PLA. All files are included. No support was used except for the computer housing. The body of the unit consists of three parts--the most important being the venturi tube with ports for both the differential pressure sensor and the oxygen sensor. The measurements of the internal structure of the throat are carefully laid out and measured and cannot be changed or it will drastically effect the results of the output. The venturi tube is nested into the body enclosure. The third part is the access door/ computer housing which is held on by two 3mm screws. A small retaining shield is also included to seal off the computer and make assembly easier.\nStep 3: Wire It\nThe actual wiring for this project is minimal. It consists of connecting two I2C devices to the computer and supplying them with power and ground. They each have different I2C addresses and the pull-up resistors are included in the DF Robot O2 sensor. The O2 sensor is carefully marked for which wires go where, however, pay carefully attention to the wiring diagram included above for the Omron sensor before wiring. (Other Omron sensors of the same type have different wiring patterns!) Both of the sensors take 3 Volts which is obtained off of the TTGO board. This ESP32 board has I2C inputs on pins 21( SDA) and 22(SCL). Multiple options on the board are available for G and Power (3V). The battery supply for voltage is delivered to the small battery connector on the back of the board interrupted by a simple on/off switch. To enable charging you must have the button in the on position and provide power through the USB-C connector.", "832" ], [ "A Simple Stand for an Acoustic Levitator MiniLev\nIntroduction: A Simple Stand for an Acoustic Levitator MiniLev\nThis project would not be possible with the amazing project that Dr. <PERSON> created.\nhttps://www.instructables.com/Acoustic-Levitator/\nLike all good projects, this one started out simple and grew as time went on. After reading Dr. <PERSON> intractable and realizing that there were a couple of old HC-SRO4's laying around left over from a robotics project, we decided to build one.\nSeveral things were obvious looking at the pictures of the dual transducer design (MiniLev) and reading articles. First, if the transducers are held parallel to each other, you have a better chance of creating a consistent standing wave. Second, the distance between the transducer needs to be adjustable, while holding the transducers parallel. There was a scrap piece of 8020 on the desk being used as a paperweight. A half hour with Fusion 360, a couple of hours printing the parts, a little back-of-the-envelope math, and we were in business. The original test was done with the extrusion held in a vice on the desk. It met the first and second design criteria and produced really good results.\nYou hit that time when you should tear a project down and move on to the next; that didn't happen. It was too much fun to mess with, and the envelope was replaced by a notebook. However we did need the vice back, so grabbed a couple more scrap pieces, cut them down and made a base.", "485" ], [ "To clean up the electronics and make the design the portable (think middle school science fair), we created a platform that clipped to the extrusions in the base. This gave us design constraints number three and four. Constraint number five came when we were asked build one for the child of a friend of ours. It needed to be simple to assemble and disassemble.\nStep 1: Assemble the Frame - Pick Your Method\nThere are three approaches to construct the frame.\n* Order everything cut and tapped\n* Cut and Tapp the extrusions your self\n* 3D print facsimiles of the extrusions\nAll three methods will require extrusion end fasteners. The design calls for two but it never hurts to have extras around. They can be purchase from:\n8020 - Standard End Fastener, 1/4-20 (https://8020.net/3381.html)\nTnutz - (EF-010-1/4-20) 1/4-20 Blank End Fastener Assembly (https://www.tnutz.com/product/blank-end-fastener-a...\nAlso needed is a 5/32 hex wrench. (https://8020.net/3342.html)\nAll the extrusion used in this project are 8020 series 10. The design we used calls for three cut and tapped pieces. All tappings are 1/4-20.\n* A six inch piece with a hole drilled in the center of the beam\n* A six inch piece with a hole drilled 0.5in from one end of the beam and the same end of the beam tapped\n* A nine inch piece on tapped on one end.\nIf using the 3D printed options, the holes and tappings are done.\nStep 2: Order Everything Cut and Tapped\nThe easiest way to build the frame is to order everything directly from 8020. Surprisingly for us this also had the longest lead time. It also produced the nicest looking results. The quality of the cutting, tapping and material was impeccable.\nWe ordered:\n1 x 6 in tapped on one end, hole 0.5 in hole on same end as tapp - Four Open T-Slots (https://8020.net/1010.html)\n1 x 6 in hole in center (3 in) - Single Open T-Slot (https://8020.net/shop/1001.html)\n1 x 9 in tapped on one end - Two Opposite Open T-Slots (https://8020.net/shop/1004.html)\n2 x Standard End Fastener, 1/4-20 1.50 (https://8020.net/3381.html)\n6 x 1/4-20 Slide-in Economy T-Nut - Centered Thread(https://8020.net/3382.html)\n6 x 1/4-20 x .500\" Flanged Button Head Socket Cap Screw (FBHSCS) (https://8020.net/3342.html)\nStep 3: Cut and Tapp the Extrusions Your Self\nOk, cutting and tapping the extrusions is the cheapest and quickest way to go.", "858" ] ]

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[ [ "Cat won’t keep cone on after neuter\nSo today me and my family got our cat (<PERSON>, 6 months old) neutered and upon picking him up we were told he’s in between cone sizes so it sort of had to be tied onto his head with a piece of medical gauze. As soon as we got in the car he managed to kick the cone off, and after attempting to put it on for about 20 minutes when we got home, we just decided to go back to the vet and ask if they could help us get it back on in a way that’d make it stay more permanently. They were a belt to get it back on with a collar harnessing it onto him (which he also absolutely hates wearing normally, hence why they didn’t harness it with the collar in the first place) but once again, as soon as we got in the car he managed to undo the collar and get the cone off.", "311" ], [ "At this point we’re panicking and trying to figure out how the hell to get it to stay, and in the end we probably spend a good hour and a half trying to get it to stay, along with buying a little donut thing to go around his neck as an alternate solution to the cone, which also ended up failing. Eventually he knocked out and we decided to take a break and hope he’d just leave the affected area alone once he woke up, fast forward to as im writing this and he WILL NOT stop trying to lick the area and i’ve just decided to try and keep him occupied until he knocks out again.\nMe and my parents aren’t sure what to do anymore because it feels like we’ve tried everything in order to keep the cone on his head and prevent the licking, but he just won’t keep it on. And I have other commitments that can’t allow me to stay up all night and be around all day making sure he doesn’t lick the area, I truly have no idea what to do. Is there any other ways to get him to avoid licking the area without using the cone?", "210" ], [ "My dog won’t stop licking one specific paw\nHelp! My baby boy has irritated skin between his toes, has licked it for 6 days and about to take him to vet tmrw — but posting this now incase they can’t help identify the root cause either.\nPart of me thinks he got one tiny burr spike stuck between his toes at one point causing this reaction, and the other part of me thinks it’s allergies. We Live in Indiana. Need an answer quick because my wife and I we leave in 3 days for our trip to Italy and will be boarding him (which atleast is a super luxurious place and has very attentive staff for him)\nIf it’s a burr spike, I can’t find it or see one at all. Maybe it came loose or fell out by now? If so it definitely led to enough itchiness to cause him to lick and irritate the skin.\nIf it’s allergies, not sure how to tell. Should take him to the vet first thing tmrw morning?\nHere’s what I’ve tried…. I’ve tried washing out his paw with cold clean water (one period-sized dot of Dawn soap mixed in until a thin layer of bubbles at top), and I’ve swished the water around the paw, then towel dab and gentle squeeze to dry.", "833" ], [ "Just to keep it clean and see if I can knock out any sort of thing that may have been stuck in between his toes. I’ve read that soaking doesn’t help with burrs, but that’s for burrs that are still complete seed with multiple spikes on it. I’m talking about one burr spike from a burr that could have been stuck. I’ve checked his paws between the toes, and his under paw (when dry and when wet) to see if I can find something but can’t at all. It’s also hard because he has multi-colored dark hair and paws are tricky to scan over to begin with.\nThe past 5 days we’ve been giving him PetLab Co skin support vitamins and allergy & immune support vitamins daily to help support his skins recovery. But it obviously it hasn’t supported a full recovery.\nI’m here to learn, consider all possibilities, any help is appreciated!!", "833" ], [ "Cat peeing next to litter box and in the house\nI have a 4 year old cat who has brain damage from seizures when he was young. He’s been perfectly fine with peeing in the litter box for years, even when we moved houses. Up until a couple months ago that it. He started peeing outside my bathroom door enough that we have water damage by the base boards from shampooing it and just started peeing next to the litter box as well.", "311" ], [ "It’s really frustrating and no one else in my house wants to try to help me fix it, they just keep saying we should put him down.\nWe have two cats and one litter box (I’ve tried to get another but my parents won’t budge on only having one). He isn’t showing any signs of urinary issues outside of this. He even uses the litter box often and if we catch him trying to pee where he shouldn’t, he runs to his litter box to go. I’ve taken the covering off his litter box in hopes that it will help but I don’t know what else to do. I’m worried my dads gonna put him down when I go away for a week if I can’t find a way to help him.\nAny advice?", "311" ], [ "Ear Mite Treatment\nI’m fairly confident that my cat has ear mites. He’s shaking his head and his ears are red and with gunk on the inside.", "505" ], [ "He’s had them for a few days now and seems to be pretty miserable. I called the vet when I first noticed that his ears were red but the soonest they could get him in is this Friday. Is there anything I can give him in the meantime to help him be a little more comfortable? I know that there are ear drops but I’ve heard very mixed things about them.", "833" ], [ "Vet Tech mistake\nThis is all very fresh and I still don’t know how to process it. I took my cat in for a neuter a few days ago with a vet that I know and trust. While the operation went well, one of the vet techs was tipping a group of strays and tipped my cat’s ear by mistake. The vet called me immediately and informed me of the mistake. She was extremely upset/apologetic and offered to try and round the ear out to make it less noticable. I gave her permission and waited anxiously for her next call. She did a great job at trying to match his now 1/3 shorter ear to the other but obviously now my cat is missing a large portion of his ear. Not to mention he got an additional surgical procedure (the tipping) that he never would have needed.", "961" ], [ "I’m livid, confused, devastated… and the icing on the cake was when I went in, the first thing they did was try to charge me. The vet that did his neuter waved the neuter cost (she had told me that on the phone) but I was being told I needed to pay for everything else including staff support care. Not a single apology when I got there, no sympathy, just concern for me paying the rest of the bill. I didn’t make a scene in front of the other clients and I treated the staff with respect even with how devastated I was and how cold they were being. I just paid the bill and left with my cat because I wanted him home as soon as possible. I’ve raised this cat from 3 weeks old, bottle fed him and he is so important to me. Is there anything I can do? I don’t want to get the veterinarian in trouble as she’s amazing and it really seems like it wasn’t her fault.. but I’m so upset. Does anyone have any advice or thoughts about where I should go from here? Thank you for reading", "176" ], [ "My yorkie likes to hunt and won’t stop.\nI do not like him doing it. He will come get us and take us to what he was able to get. Last night he had a opossum in the front yard.", "210" ], [ "Luckily, it was just playing dead and we let it go. It really hasn’t been too much of a problem in the past but we moved to a rural area and every time he is outside it seems he is tracking something. He has a different bark when he’s found something.\nHe’s an older dog, is there even anyway to break that now besides making him stay on a chain when he’s outside.", "1011" ], [ "I can’t get this kitten to pee or poop.\nI have this kitten that was abandoned. He’s no more then 2 weeks old, and in the 36 hours I’ve had him he hasn’t pooped or peed once. (If you want a little more context on this I made a post about it yesterday, you can find it in my profile.) But he hardly drank any KMR milk yesterday, he’s drank some more today, and has been ok for the most part, but I can’t get him to poop or pee. I’ve tried all the tricks people say, rub his lower belly with a warm towel to simulate the mother licking him but nothing comes out. Is it just that he’s not getting enough milk in him? Is he constipated? I have no idea how to take care of a kitten this young, I’ve been stressing all day, and no, the vet is closed, no vets on call, no nothing.", "833" ], [ "I live in a rural area and it’s thanksgiving weekend in my country. It’s currently about 9:00 Sunday night, and I won’t be able to get him to a vet by Tuesday morning. When I do try and make him go to the bathroom he feels panicked, and starts meowing like crazy. Is there any tricks I can use to get him to go to the bathroom. Cause the standard ones aren’t working.", "833" ], [ "Kitten won’t stop peeing everywhere\nHello, any help would be greatly appreciated. I got my kitten (10 months old) when he was 2 months old. He used to pee around the house every couple of weeks, now almost every day, 9/10 times when I’m asleep. However, he poops in the litter box.", "311" ], [ "The vet tested his pee and found that he had a bacterial infection. We gave him the medicine, and he should have been responding to it by now, but he hasn’t. The vet recommended a diffuser to calm him down. But it’s a hundred dollars, and I’m not sure if it will work. What should I do?", "833" ] ]

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[ [ "Fruity Chia Seed Pudding\nIntroduction: Fruity Chia Seed Pudding\nChia seeds are rich in nutrients, full of fiber and good fats, easy to prepare and visually interesting. They go great with chocolate and fruit, can be mixed with regular milk, coconut, soy or nut milk.\nOnly one tablespoon of chia seeds has as much fiber as 2 cups of broccoli, so if you are on a quest to eat more fiber, this instructable is for you.\nChia pudding has to be made ahead of time, at least 6-8 hours.", "851" ], [ "Fruit fillings can be prepared ahead of time.\nYou can choose which fruit to use and layer your pudding however you like.\nIt can be kept in the fridge up to 4 days.\nSupplies\n4 portions (~1/2 cup chia pudding per person)\n1 can (400ml) coconut milk\n4-5 tablespoons liquid sweetener such as honey or syrup\n5 tablespoons chia seeds\nsmall whisk\nhand blender- optional\nFresh, canned or frozen fruit of your choice, about 400g:\n-strawberries\n-mango\n-pineapple\n-kiwi\n-peach\n-berries\n-passion fruit\nAdditional seasoning like cinnamon, vanilla extract, ginger etc.\nStep 1: Gel Your Chia\nPour the milk into a bowl, add liquid sweetener and mix very well. Sprinkle chia seeds over the milk and whisk everything together immediately. Chia seeds usually take a few minutes before they start the gelling process, but sometimes this might happen straight away and if you don't mix the seeds very well, you will end up with clumps of seeds and no way of separating them.\nOnce mixed, put aside for 15-20 min and then whisk one more time.\nCover with cling wrap and leave in the fridge overnight (at least 6 hours).\nStep 2: Chia Pudding\nChia pudding after few hours, it's ready to use straight away.\nStep 3: Fruity Pulp and Chunky Fillings\nUse about 100g of fruit per portion.\nWash, peel and cut your fruit.\nDecide if you want chunky or smooth filling.\nUse a fork to mash soft fruit like strawberries.\nUse a blender to process fruit into smooth pulp.\nOr simply chop them into small pieces with a knife.\nStep 4: Peach and Ginger\nCanned peaches and freshly grated ginger blended in a smoothie maker into a pulp.\nStep 5: Pina Colada - Pineapple\nFresh pineapple diced into small pieces.\nStep 6: Strawberry and Mango\nMashed strawberries and mango pulp with chunks.", "2" ], [ "Purple Cauliflower Steaks With Pistachio-Spinach Pesto\nIntroduction: Purple Cauliflower Steaks With Pistachio-Spinach Pesto\nTake a second and look at these pictures. Isn't purple cauliflower gorgeous?! It's a very elusive vegetable, but when you finally get a hold of it, you will be able to create the most stunning, colourful dishes. I like to pair it up with vegetables or sauces and create bold, contrasting colours, in this case it's bright green pesto.\nCauliflower steaks is a great meat alternative for vegans and vegetarians and people looking for a light, meat free meal. Those steaks are tender, juicy and can be flavoured with your own choice of spices and let's not forget about the visual appeal.\nOne thing to keep in mind while cooking purple cauliflower- when boiled, cauliflower will loose majority of it's pigments and florets will become light grey, light blue or light violet. You can of course boil the cauliflower and make a mash if you don't mind pastel food, but it's seems like such a waste of a great opportunity. If you roast the cauliflower or saute it, it will not only retain the original pigments, it will become darker and more vivid.\nPurple cauliflower tastes, looks and cooks like an ordinary white cauliflower, except it's purple.", "2" ], [ "This brilliant colour is natural and not at all genetically modified. There are also green and orange cauliflower varieties available.\nSupplies\n1 large purple cauliflower\n2-4 TBS olive oil suitable for roasting\nsalt, pepper\noptional: garlic powder, onion powder, spices - to taste\nfor pesto:\n1/2 cup shelled pistachios (salted or plain)\n1/2 cup basil leaves\n2 cups fresh baby spinach\n1-2tbs lemon juice\n2 tbs olive oil\n1 garlic clove\nsalt\nStep 1:\nRemove the leaves and trim the stem, but make sure the core is intact. Cut straight through the middle of the head and slice a 3/4-1 in thick steak on each side. Save the excess florets for another recipe or roast them alongside the steaks.\nStep 2:\nLightly grease the pan with olive oil, place the cauliflower on the sheet and brush it with more olive oil (use silicone brush to distribute it thinly and evenly)- oil will keep the florets from burning and drying out.\nSprinkle with salt and pepper, spices and herbs too, if desired.\nRoast at 400°F (200°C) for 15-30 min, cook shorter if you like your veggies al dente, longer if you like them very soft.\nFirst picture is raw cauliflower, second and third is roasted. Notice how the colour deepened and became more vibrant.\nStep 3:\nUse an immersion blender to make pesto. Combine all ingredients and blend until smooth, season with salt.\nStep 4:", "901" ], [ "Rainbow Vegetable Hummus - Six Ways\nIntroduction: Rainbow Vegetable Hummus - Six Ways\nHummus is a delicious spread and dip, perfect for any occasion and great with most snacks, but it can get boring after a while. Why not try these six, all natural, vegetable variations for some new flavours and colours.\nAll you need are chickpeas, tahini paste, olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, salt and your choice of vegetables.\nYellow hummus consists of carrots and tumeric, orange is just roasted peppers, red hummus is beetroot. Purple comes from sweet purple potatoes, blue from red cabbage and green from avocado and spinach.\nStep 1: Roasting\nMost of the vegetables will have to be roasted and cooled down beforehand. Potatoes, beetroots, red peppers,carrots and red cabbage can all go into the oven together for 40-50 min at 200°C. They could technically be boiled instead of roasted, but roasting retains the colours and flavours better.\nStep 2: Chickpeas Preparation\nThis step is optional, but highly encouraged. To make hummus extra smooth, you have to get rid of the outer membrane from each and every bean. Sounds like a lot of work, but it can actually be accomplished in less than 5min per can.\n1. Tip the contents of the can into a bowl and add one teaspoon of bicarb of soda into the water. Stir and let the beans sit in the water for about 30-60 min. Bicarb of soda loosens the skin around the bean.\n2.", "2" ], [ "Grab a handful of chickpeas at the time and rub them between your palms. You will see the outer membranes coming off straight away. Once one handful is rubbed, transfer it to another bowl. Continue with remaining beans.\n3. To separate chickpeas from membranes, fill the bowl with water all the way to the top and gently pour the water out. Membranes rise to the top, while chickpeas stay at the bottom of the bowl. Refill the bowl with water and repeat that process 2-3 times until all visible membranes are gone.\nIf you are on the clock and can't be bothered, you can just use your chickpeas straight from the can and your hummus will still be good, just not as smooth.\nStep 3: Gather All Ingredients\nOnce my roasted veggies were cooled, I peeled them (carrots), scraped all seeds (peppers) and scooped the flesh out (potato).\nAlso, I was making 6 different flavours at the same time and didn't want to spend a whole evening in the kitchen measuring each batch, so I made a big batch of basic hummus and then divided it into six portions before I added vegetables.\nStep 4: Yellow = Carrot + Tumeric\n* 1 can chickpeas\n* 1/4 cup tahini\n* 2 tbs olive oil\n* 1 small garlic clove\n* 1-2 tbs lemon juice\n* 400g carrots (roasted)\n* 1/8 tsp tumeric\n* salt, cumin, smoked paprika\nStart by blending main ingredients first, then taste before adding seasoning and salt. If your hummus is too thick, add a teaspoon or two of water.\nStep 5: Orange = Red Peppers\n* 1 can chickpeas\n* 1/4 cup tahini\n* 2 tbs olive oil\n* 1 small garlic clove\n* 1-2 tbs lemon juice\n* 4 red peppers (roasted)\n* salt, smoked paprika\nStart by blending main ingredients first, then taste before adding seasoning and salt. If your hummus is too thick, add a teaspoon or two of water.\nStep 6: Red = Beetroot\n* 1 can chickpeas\n* 1/4 cup tahini\n* 2 tbs olive oil\n* 1small garlic clove\n* 1-2 tbs lemon juice\n* 4 small beets or 2 large ones (roasted or boiled)\n* salt, cumin, coriander\nStart by blending main ingredients first, then taste before adding seasoning and salt. If your hummus is too thick, add a teaspoon or two of water.\nStep 7: Purple = Purple Sweet Potato\n* 1 can chickpeas\n* 1/4 cup tahini\n* 2 tbs olive oil\n* 1 small garlic clove\n* 1 tbs lemon juice\n* 1/2 - 1 cup sweet potato (roasted) ------> start by adding half a cup and check if you want to add more, the more you add, the more stodgy it will become\n* 1-4 tbs water (hummus will be quite thick, thin it with water)\n* salt, cumin\nStart by blending main ingredients first, then taste before adding seasoning and salt.", "2" ], [ "Breakfast Egg Casserole Bake Made With Leftovers\nIntroduction: Breakfast Egg Casserole Bake Made With Leftovers\nMy absolute pet peeve, when it comes to cooking, is random leftovers. Half a chicken breast, handful of cooked mushrooms, one potato, three asparagus spears and one slice of ham. It happens a lot in my house and while it drives me crazy, it actually gives me an opportunity to make this breakfast casserole. It's a little bit like an omelet, except you can make it ahead of time and keep it in the fridge for a few days. No need for chopping, frying or washing up, the only thing you have to do is to heat it up. Perfect for busy mornings or even lazy evenings if you don't mind eating breakfast food for dinner.\nChoice of filling is completely up to you, it's also easy to make substitutions and turn this recipe gluten-free and/or lactose free.\nSupplies\nThis dish doesn't really have a clean-cut recipe, it's more of a rough estimation and going with the gut and your preferences, as well as product availability.\nFor a medium size pan (7x10inch) you will need:\n1. 1/4 cup flour\n2. 1/2 cup milk\n3. spices and herbs, salt and pepper - to taste (I added 2 tsp salt, 1tsp pepper, 2tbs chives, 1tbs oregano, 1 tsp cayenne)\n4. 6 large eggs\n5. 2-3 cups leftover veggies and meat cut into small pieces\n6.", "277" ], [ "100g grated cheddar cheese\nThis is enough for 6 portions.\nMeat and hard veggies have to be at least precooked before using. I only ever use already cooked meats, like leftover chicken or minced beef, cooked and sliced sausage, Korean BBQ pork, ham etc. You can also use firm tofu instead of meat, it has to be squeezed thoroughly and crumbled.\nHard vegges like potatoes, carrots, broccoli, green beans, aubergine as well as mushrooms have to be partially cooked. Frozen spinach has to be thawed and squeezed, fresh spinach has to be sauteed.\nI highly recommend adding flour to the mix, it helps to bind moisture in eggs, especially if you make a large batch and plan on heating it up over the next few days. If you don't consume regular flour, you can use gluten-free or vegan alternative such as rice flour or almond flour.\nStep 1:\n1. Start by whisking flour, milk and seasoning until your flour paste is smooth.\n2. Add eggs and whisk only until combined. Don't use electric mixers, you don't want to aerate the eggs too much.\nStep 2:\nAdd anywhere between 1.5-3 cups of veggies and meat. The more you add, the denser the casserole will be. Don't add more than 3 cups per 6 eggs, otherwise it won't hold together once cooked.\nAt this point you can also add half the cheddar to the mix, about 50g, it's optional, you can skip it if you prefer lighter version.\nStep 3:\nTransfer the mixture into a square/rectangular-ish dish, sprinkle with remaining cheese and bake.\n180C fan oven, 200C regular oven or 400F for 45min. To ensure eggs are cooked throughout, stick a knife in the middle of the casserole and check if it comes out clean and egg-free.\nOnce cooked, casserole can be refrigerated for 3-4 days. All you have to do is microwave it.\nIt cuts easily and can be enjoyed on it's own or with bread.\nStep 4: Enjoy", "277" ], [ "Easter Banana Bread\nIntroduction: Easter Banana Bread\nEasy banana bread is a lovely Easter treat to serve for your family. It is good for sharing around the table, super moist and delicious. Vanilla cream topping makes it more festive!\nBanana Carrot Bread Recipe was first published on our blog.", "290" ], [ "Check it to learn more tips on how to make and store it.\nI'm sure everyone will love a piece of moist and crunchy Easter banana bread. And it is a good way to use leftover brown spotted bananas and add veggies (carrots) to your picky toddler diet!\nSupplies\n2 eggs\n½ cup vegetable oil\n3 bananas ripe\n¼ cup brown sugar\n1 tsp vanilla powder or essence\n¾ cup oat flour or quick oats\n1 tsp baking soda\n1 tsp baking powder\n1 tsp cinnamon\n½ tsp ginger\n¼ tsp nutmeg\n1 ¼ cup whole wheat flour\n2 big carrots shredded\n½ cup walnuts chopped + extra for decoration\n1 tbsp Vanilla cream powder for cake (I used Dr.Oetker)\n1 cup milk of choice\n1 tbsp dried carrots optional\nEquipment:\n* bowl for mixing\n* 1 spatula\n* 1 Loaf pan\n* parchment paper\n* Oven\n* Whisk\n* fork\n* off-set spatula or spoon\nStep 1: Make Banana Bread Batter\nMash banana with a fork, then in separate bowl whisk eggs and oil until foamy.\nAdd egg mixture to mashed banana.\nAdd wheat flour and oat flour, fold in with a spatula.\nAdd sugar, baking soda, baking powder, vanilla and spices. Mix until everything is incorporated.\nFinally fold in grated carrots and walnuts.\nStep 2: Bake the Bread\nAdd batter to the loaf pan, lined with parchment paper.\nBake 25-30 min in the oven, preheated to 190 C / 375 F, until inserted toothpick comes out clean.\nLet it cool completely before removing from the pan.\nStep 3: Make Topping\nWhip milk with vanilla cake cream powder (according to instructions on the package).\nApply cream to the bread with an off-set spatula or back of the spoon.\nDecorate with walnuts and dried carrots (optional).\nYou can also decorate with whipped cream cheese instead or drizzle with chocolate!\nStep 4: Cut and Serve\nCut the bread into thick slices and serve for your family!\nEnjoy!", "305" ], [ "Banoffee Pie\nIntroduction: Banoffee Pie\nBeautiful and simple sweet pie that every family member will enjoy! Because who doesn't love cookies, caramel, banana, cream and chocolate? Amazing combination for a sweet tooth!\nIt's an English dessert with flavors that everyone knows. If you haven't tried it, you should! Keep in mind that you will need more that one slice of this delicious pie.\nThis amazing pie was first published on our blog as No Bake Banoffee Pie. You can read on our blog, why this pie is called Banoffee.\nThere is no baking required to make this pie. It's an easy pie idea, when you want to have a treat or sudden guest arrives.", "290" ], [ "One of our favorite no bake pies!\nSupplies\n8 inch / 20 cm spring form pan\nfood processor or a bag + rolling pin\n230 g plain biscuits, cookies or graham crackers\n150 g melted butter\n1 can dulce de leche (caramelized or boiled condensed milk) (397 g)\n2 big bananas\n300 ml whipping cream or 1 1/4 cup\n1/2 tsp vanilla flavored instant coffee\n1 pack cream stabilizer 15g\n1/2 cup or 90 g dark chocolate for decoration (optional)\n1 tbsp crushed hazelnuts (optional)\nStep 1: Banoffee Pie Base\nCombine the crushed biscuits or cookies with melted butter.\nPress to the bottom and sides of the spring form pan or pie pan.\nUse food processor to crush the cookies. Alternatively, put cookies in a sealed bag and crush with the rolling pin.\nLet the base set in the fridge for 1 hour.\nStep 2: Pie Filling\nFill the bottom of the pie with caramelized condensed milk or Dulce de Leche.\nPlace the slices of banana on top.\nWhip the cream with stabilizer and coffee, using electric mixer until stiff peaks. You can add a little bit sugar here, but Dulce de Leche and banana together are very sweet !\nPut the whipped cream on top of the pie.\nPut the pie in the fridge, while making decoration.\nStep 3: Decorate the Pie\nMelt 3/4 of the chocolate on a double boiler (a pot with simmering water and a heat-proof bowl placed on top).\nMake sure the top bowl doesn’t touch the water!\nWhen it is almost melted, remove the bowl from heat and add remaining chocolate. Stir until melted and cooled.\nThis process is called tempering, you can see our instructable on how to temper chocolate.\nPour chocolate on the tray or plate, layered with parchment paper and let it cool completely. Cut different shapes and leave aside.\nAlternatively, just grate some chocolate on top of the pie!\nCut the hazelnuts in half.\nStep 4: Decorate the Pie\nInsert the chocolate decorations in the pie and sprinkle crushed hazelnuts.\nCut the banoffee pie and enjoy!", "851" ], [ "Gluten and Dairy Free Triple Chocolate Roll\nIntroduction: Gluten and Dairy Free Triple Chocolate Roll\nIt's my pleasure to present to you a chocolate inspired recipe from my late Mum, slightly modified to suit the needs of my gluten and dairy intolerant daughter.\nFilled with a luscious chestnut cream, I promise you, NOBODY will ever be able to guess that this chocolate treat is gluten and dairy free.\nLet's begin...\nSupplies\nSPONGE CAKE:\n* 40g unsweetened cocoa powder\n* 1 tablespoon cornstarch (or potato starch)\n* 1/8 teaspoon salt\n* 6 large eggs, separated\n* 150g granulated sugar (separated into 125g and 25g)\n* 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract\n* 1 tablespoon dark rum (optional)\n* Icing sugar for dusting\nCHESTNUT BUTTER CREAM FILLING\n* 75g softened, unsalted margarine (can substitute for butter)\n* 25g softened coconut oil (can substitute for more margarine or butter)\n* 100g sweetened vanilla chestnut spread (also known as chestnut puree)\nCHOCOLATE FROSTING\n* 50g unsalted, softened margarine (or butter)\n* 50g vanilla chestnut spread\n* 75g 60-70% dark chocolate, melted\nDECORATION (optional)\n* 50g white chocolate, melted\n* Fresh fruit, berries (whatever is in season)\n* Cocoa powder or icing sugar\nTOOLS / UTENSILS\n* Measuring spoons\n* Spatulas\n* Scissors\n* Bowls\n* Weighing scale\n* Swiss roll tray, greased and lined with parchment / greaseproof paper\n* Stand mixer with whisk attachment\n* Hand whisk\n* Tea towel\n* Cooling rack\nStep 1: Let's Get Beating\nPreheat the oven to 190°C / 375°F.\nGrease and line a Swiss roll tray with parchment / greaseproof paper. This will make it easier to remove and roll the sponge later.\nCombine the cocoa powder, cornstarch and salt in a bowl and set aside.\nWith the separated egg whites, start to whisk until they form soft peaks. Gradually add in the 25g of sugar and beat until they form stiff peaks.\nStep 2: Now It's Time for Chocoate\nIn a separate bowl, beat the egg yolks with the remaining 125g of sugar until pale and thick.\nAdd in the vanilla, (optional) rum and cocoa starch mixture.\nNow carefully fold the stiff egg whites into the chocolate mixture and gently spread out the batter onto the lined Swiss roll tray.\nBake in the preheated oven for 12-15 minutes, until the cake springs back to a light finger touch and is just starting to shrink a little from the edges of the tray.\nBE CAREFUL not to overcook, otherwise the sponge will crack when rolling.\nStep 3: Let's Roll With It\nOnce the sponge is baked, remove from the oven and immediately dust the top of the sponge liberally with icing sugar.\nRun a blade around the edges and cover with a clean kitchen towel, then a wire rack (with feet facing up).\nReverse the tray and rack together and lift off the tray, revealing the underside of the sponge (greaseproof paper up).\nCarefully slide the kitchen towel and sponge onto a flat surface and slowly peel off the greaseproof paper.\nTrim any crispy edges and quickly gobble them up! If anyone asks, you are taste testing :-)\nStarting at one of the short edges, roll the cake up, then leave to cool for 20 minutes.\nStep 4: Fill Her Up\nWhisk together the butter, coconut oil (if using) and chestnut spread until smooth.\nNOTE: For those who live in a warm climate or a warm home, you can place the filling in the fridge until the sponge is cool.", "305" ], [ "This will allow the filling to hard a little. Just don't forget to whisk again before using.\nUnroll the sponge onto a sheet of greaseproof paper, removing the kitchen towel.\nSpread the chestnut filling all over the sponge in an even layer, leaving a 1-2 cm band on one of the short edges.\nUsing the greaseproof paper and starting at the short edge that is frosted, roll the sponge up again and transfer to a flat surface/ plate and pop it into the freezer for 10-15 minutes. This will make it easier to frost later.\nStep 5: A Little Bit Frosty\nMelt the dark chocolate and butter and then beat in the chestnut spread.", "136" ], [ "Parmesan-Olive Savory Cookie\nIntroduction: Parmesan-Olive Savory Cookie\nSavory cookies are great with beer, replace store-bought snacks and can be customised to suit your allergies and tastes. They are not crackers, more like crispy cookies, but not thin enough to snap (unless you want them to snap, then roll them thinner). Simple to make, even without a food processor.\nSupplies\n90g grated parmesan\n180g all purpose flour\n120g cold, cubed butter\n3TBS herbs (fresh or dry, rosemary works best)\n1tsp sweet or hot paprika\n1TBS sugar\n1/2 tsp salt\n2 garlic cloves, minced\n75g black, pitted olives\negg and a splash of milk for glazing\nfood brush, additional p\nStep 1: Olives\nDrain olives, dry them using kitchen towels and chop them roughly. Once chopped, blot them as much as possible, we don't want any additional liquid in the dough.\nDivide into 60 and 15g. Reserve 15g for decoration.\nStep 2: Mix Dry Ingredients\nCombine flour, cheese, spices, herbs, sugar and salt in a food processor. Pulse until combined.\nAlternatively, you can whisk dry ingredients in a large bowl.\nStep 3: Add Butter\nAdd butter and pulse until mixture resembles crumbs.\nAlternatively, you can rub butter into flour with your fingertips.", "851" ], [ "Do it quickly and work while butter is still cold.\nStep 4: Olives and Garlic\nLastly, add 60g chopped olives and minced garlic. Pulse until combined. Your dough won't be crumbly, parmesan makes it pretty soft, so you won't have to add any liquids. Wrap the dough in a cling film and chill in the fridge for 4 hours.\nStep 5: Rolling the Dough and Baking\nRoll the dough to about 5mm thickness, sprinkle with remaining olives and push them into the dough with a rolling pin. You want the dough to be 3-4mm thick in the end. Cut into shapes, I cut mine with a knife, not a cookie cutter, to save the dough and time. Once cut, brush with an egg wash (whisked egg and a splash of milk), separate the cookies and put in the oven.\nBake at 180°C (350°F) for 12-15 min.\nStep 6: Parmesan Option\nYou can skip topping the dough with olives, and instead sprinkle it with parmesan for another variation of the same dough.\nStep 7: Finished", "195" ] ]

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[ [ "You'll be scooping up interstellar medium at significant kinetic energies.\nThere's two problems: The atoms that hit you will actually accelerate you away from your position (pressure measured in Pa), and of course they'll impose a radiation hazard as you absorb them (radiation dose measured in Gy).\nLet's do some math. Let's assume an interstellar medium consisting of one hydrogen atom per cubic centimeter.\nThis gives a density ρ = m/V = 1.7e-21 kg/m³.\nYou'll scoop up the ISM at dm/dt/A = ρ·v = 1.5e-13 kg/s/m². Note that this depends on the area of your body that is facing into the stream; you might want to go head-first or feet-first depending on if you're still planning to procreate.\nThe pressure that the ISM exerts on you is p = F/A = dm/dt/A · v = 1.3e-5 Pa.\nThis is pretty negligible, you won't even feel it. At an exposed area of 1m² and a mass including the EVA suit of 100kg, the acceleration is just 1.3e-7m/s², enough to displace you by less than a meter in one hour.\nThe radiation hazard is another thing, though. The kinetic energy at relativistic speeds is calculated by multiplying the relativistic gamma factor, minus one, with mc². The relativistic gamma factor in your case is 1.04828.\nThe kinetic energy of the mass stream is calculated by P/A = (relativistic gamma factor - 1)·dm/dt·c^2/A = 653W/m². This is half the power of solar radiation as felt on earth. Which is a lot.\nThe radiation dose is calculated as energy absorbed per body weight: Assuming a body weight of 80kg and an exposed area of 0.5m^2, D/t = P/m = (P/A)·A/m = 4.08Gy/s.", "921" ], [ "This handy table tells you what will happen to your spacewalker.\n* They'll pretty much immediately feel the extra heating\n* After 2 seconds, their biology is damaged beyond repair with a life expectancy of 2-4 weeks, and \"rapid incapacitation\" sets on\n* After 7 seconds, they'll experience \"Seizures, tremor, ataxia and lethargy\", and their life expectancy has dropped to 1-2 days\nSo... without some sort of shield there's no way a human could do a spacewalk.\nhowever, these levels of radiation will not only affect spacewalkers, but everybody on the ship, so the ship will likely have massive leaden (or similar) shields at its front. As long as your space walkers would be in the \"shadow\" of the frontal shield, they have nothing to worry about... apart from accidentally drifting into the death zone...\nOf course the radiation levels outside the ship would still be elevated because\n* the ship's hull provides some additional shielding\n* some particles can be scattered around the edges of the shield which would lead to a gradual increase in levels the closer you get to the \"edge\" of the shielded zone, especially near the rear end of the ship.\nbut if the inside of the ship is shielded well enough to allow humans to live a normal live and life, they should be able to survive outside for a few hours without problems.\nP.S. I think the leaden shield is actually doable in practice. I'm not sure how to calculate its thickness, but it will be probably ~50 times the mean free path of 0.3c hydrogen atoms in lead, whatever that works out to. You could make the shield out of Unobtanium which I hear has excellent properties in that respect. Unobtainium shields may even be light enough to be worked into the fabric of the EVA suit... but note that you'll still need to cool them, and since your visor can't be made of it, don't you ever stare into the direction of oncoming death.", "947" ], [ "If you're using a traditional rocket (i.e. anything that accelerates forwards by expelling something from the ship backwards), then the rocket equation applies:\n$$M_0 = M_1 \\exp(\\Delta v/v_e)$$\n$M_0$ is your rocket's \"wet mass\", i.e. the mass of the rocket plus the propellant at the beginning of the journey\n$M_1$ is the \"dry mass\", the mass of the rocket at the end of the journey\n$v_e$ is the exhaust velocity, the speed that the propellant is expelled from the rocket\n$\\Delta v$ is the delta-v of the journey; in relativistic contexts this is the integral of proper acceleration times proper time (acceleration times time as experienced by the rocket)\nAnd $\\exp$ is the natural exponential function (e to the power of x).\nOne way to get a 10 year journey to Proxima (4.25 light-years away) is to accelerate at 1g for 0.42 years proper time (0.43 years back on Earth), coast for 9.15 years proper time (10.02 Earth years), and then decelerate for another 0.42 years proper time to arrive at the destination. (Max velocity is 40.6% of the speed of light; total time experienced by crew 9.99 years, total time according to Earth observer is 10.88 years.) You can spin for gravity during the coasting phase, just design your habitat module to be able to handle gravity from both the thrust direction and the radial direction.\nWith a fusion engine, exhaust velocities are around 10% of light speed IIRC, and the rocket equation tells you that you need...", "234" ], [ "about 5480 kg of propellant for every 1 kg of rocket and payload at the end of the journey. There's no possible way to carry such an insane amount of propellant. So you'll need to invoke some fictional engine technology.\nWith a photon rocket that can directly convert mass-energy of your fuel to an enormous planet-scorching laser (do not point your exhaust within an AU of anyone or anything you love), you would need about 1.37 kg of mass-energy convertible fuel per kg of rocket. Much more manageable.", "574" ], [ "No, not in the way these \"grav lifts/antigrav lifts\" are depicted in the literature.\nSurprisingly, this has nothing to do with (anti-)gravity.\nA typical scenario would be: you return from lunch, enter the mgea-skyscraper at ground level, step into an \"antigrav tube\" and move up to your office on the 240th floor, where you and your lunch arrive, quite possibly, separately.\nThe idea of this kind of life was perhaps inspired by a paternoster lift (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paternoster_lift), and movement in the lift tube is usually described just like that of paternoster lift, just without cabins.\nNow, with constant and human-manageable velocity (the passenger enters and exits the lift on his/her own, by means of a handle), this trip will take some time (let's say 15 minutes for single 240 floor trip). Basically, when you arrive at ground level, you can immediate embark on the return trip to your office because the travel time leaves no time for lunch. Which saves you from the embarrassing situation of you and your lunch arriving separately.\nObviously, one \"solution\" would be to have constant acceleration (and deceleration) in the grav lift. So, on the trip from your 240th floor office to ground level, you would accelerate for the first half the trip and decelerate for the second half. Mathematically, with about 1 g-force of acceleration, you could expect to arrive in maybe 20 seconds. Practically, you will crash into Guido from the 120th floor after 10 seconds, at a speed of 350km/h.", "947" ], [ "Lunch separation issues are now the least of your worries.\nAgain, this is about how the lifts are depicted in the science fiction literature. You might add accelerator tubes which bring the passenger up to some fixed travel speed before entering the main tube, and some clever exit system which pulls the passenger out of the main tube upon arrival at the pre-selected destination and slows them down in a separate decelerator tube. But that's far from being as \"elegantly simple\" as the grav lifts depicted in the literature.\nAnother solution would be to \"bundle\" passenger with similar trips (this is actually done in real life right now, to increase the bandwidth of conventional lifts). You might even provide cabins for these \"passenger bundles\" (groups).\nOh, wait. That's too much like a boring ordinary lift. Note that in very tall building, even the boring ordinary lift already accelerate (and decelerate) at 0.5 g-force - and this is already a bit of a lunch containment issue for some people.", "947" ], [ "Lasers.\nYou don't need to destroy the debris, just push it out of the way by the slightest amount. The vast majority of space junk is tracked, as others have mentioned, so you'll know what's a threat long before it actually hits. Hit the debris with a laser to alter it's path slightly and you can avoid collisions.\nBecause you can track most of the debris, you can even start this process well in advance. Debris will be speeding past very quickly, but you should be able to hit anything dangerous multiple times as it passes by with each orbit.\nYou can even use this system whenever it's not directly protecting the elevator to slowly reenter space debris as it passes. Just slow down the speed of whatever passes by and eventually stuff will start to fall out of orbit. It cleans up space and protects the elevator all at once!\nAs for the stuff that isn't tracked, you'll need to be able to detect it in advance, so some sort of sensing equipment will be necessary, but you'll need that already for laser targeting. Luckily the stuff that's not tracked is all very small stuff, so it will be easier to push out of the way, and you won't need as much advance notice.\nDelving deeper!\nLuckily for anyone who wants a thorough, scientific analysis of this option, I'm not highly original and laser reentry of space junk has been studied! One particular paper DOI: 10.1016/j.asr.2012.02.003 goes quite in-depth, and I'll cite some of its more important findings here.\nFirst, how big of a problem is space junk?\nThere are about $N_1 = 2,200$ large objects (diameter ≥ 100cm, mass of order 1 ton) in LEO, and $N_2 = 190k$ small objects (diameter ≥ 1cm).", "199" ], [ "The flux for the small ones in the peak density region is about $R_2 = 1.4E-4$ $m^{-2}year^{-1}$ ... [Applying these figures], the chance that a big object will impact a big object is once in $T_{11} = 134$ years, whereas the chance a small object will impact a big object is once in $T_{21} = 3$ years.\nOne variable seems to change names at some point in their calculations, so I'm not certain about how this translates to a stationary object, but it does give us a time scale.\nSo if we do nothing, we'll have a small strike every few years. But let's not do nothing! Let's use some lasers!\nFirst of all, how do lasers work to deorbit debris? Basically, the laser hits the surface and rapidly superheats the material, vaporizing it. This vapor is still in the path of the laser however, so it continues to be struck by the laser beam, where it superheats a bit more and becomes plasma. The plasma rapidly decompresses, pushing the object away, and essentially forming a small jet on the object's surface. After some time, adding more energy to the system is counterproductive so the authors of this paper suggest a pulsed laser, rather than a continuous one.\nThe authors assume a period of $\\tau = 5ns$ for the laser pulse, and using this number, find that they need to apply $53\\ kJ/m^2$ to the object to optimally accelerate an aluminum target.\nIn a practical case where $D_{eff} = 10m$, if $T = 80\\%$, $T_{eff} = 0.5$. In order to deliver $53 kJ/m^2$ to a target at $1000km$ range, the product $ WD_{eff}^2 $ must be at least $993 kJm^2$, laser pulse energy must be $ 7.3kJ$, and the mirror diameter $ D$ must be $13m$.\nThis means that the lasers don't even have to be in space! With pretty much current tech, you can deploy a system of them on the surface and deorbit from there!\nThe authors find that any object with mass less than 1kg can be reentered in a single pass. Larger objects (their example gave mass of 1-ton) would take several years to reenter, but, if you recall the frequency of interactions between large objects, the chance of a catastrophic collision is very small, and we can very easily nudge these objects out of the way in a single pass.", "580" ], [ "Let me start with the additional problems that arise:\n* The trajectory of the suns is not stable. If they are slightly off-center, gravity will pull them towards the side of the cylinder that they're closer to, analogous to the ringworld stability issue. You could work around this by using stellar engines of some sort to keep the stars centered, or making the cylinder a tiny bit flexible and using motors to change its shape dynamically....\n* There is nowhere for the heat that is generated by fusion in the cores of the suns to escape, apart from conduction through the crust towards outside space. You could work around this by putting large holes in your cylinder through which outside space is visible, by making your crust very thin (on the order of meters), or by making it very conductive (by adding an active cooling system that pumps heat outside). This oversimplified illustration shows the relevant mechanisms that keep earth's surface at its equilibrium temperature, and how the inside of your cylinder would heat to over 2 million Kelvins without any countermeasures:\nNow, to your actual question.\nThe only relevant parameter is the distance between the suns, in AU.", "24" ], [ "The speed at which they move follows automatically from your requirement that one sun should pass every 24 hours. It will be rather high, though :)\nYou will, of course, always see an infinite number of suns, but most of them will be very dim and very close to the horizon. Here's what the sky will look like, with the apparent brightness of the suns (= the area they occupy in the sky) written next to the dots.\nsuns spaced at 1AU: suns spaced at 20AU:\nTo calculate the total illumination, some math is required. You need to calculate the infinite sum of the contributions of each sun. In this formula, d is the distance between the suns in AU, and o is the offset from mid-day, where o=0 means mid-day, and o=1 means mid-day tomorrow.\nThis gives the following equation for the momentary strength of illumination (assuming that the power output of one sun at 1AU distance is 1):\n-(π sinh((2 π)/d))/(d (cos(2 o π) - cosh((2 π)/d)))\nTo find your preferred value of d, just plot this formula for various values.\nHere's a quick python snippet that does exactly that, since I couldn't get nice plots out of Wolfram Alpha:\n```python\n!/usr/bin/env python3\nfrom argparse import ArgumentParser from math import sqrt, sinh, cos, cosh, pi import numpy from matplotlib import pyplot as plt\ncli = ArgumentParser() cli.add_argument('--distance', type=float, default=1) cli.add_argument('--average-illumination', type=float, default=0.25) args = cli.parse_args() power = 0.31831 * args.average_illumination * args.distance\nhours = numpy.arange(0, 24, 1/60) illuminations = [] for hour in hours: offset = hour / 24 - 0.5 illuminations.append( -power * pi * sinh((2 * pi)/args.distance) / (args.distance * (cos(2 * offset * pi) - cosh((2 * pi)/args.distance))) )\nfig = plt.figure() ax = fig.add_subplot(1, 1, 1) ax.set_xticks(range(25)) ax.set_xlim(0, 24) ax.set_yscale('log') ax.grid() ax.plot(hours, illuminations) ax.set_title(f'spacing: {args.distance} AU, ' f'luminosity: {power} L0, ' f'min: {min(illuminations):.5g}, ' f'max: {max(illuminations):.5g}')\nfrom https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lux#Illuminance\nax.annotate(\"moonless clear sky with airglow\", (0.5, 0.002/100e3)) ax.annotate(\"full moonlight\", (0.5, 0.3/100e3)) ax.annotate(\"dark limit of civil twilight\", (0.5, 3.4/100e3)) ax.annotate(\"family living room lighting\", (0.5, 50/100e3)) ax.annotate(\"very dark overcast day\", (0.5, 100/100e3)) ax.annotate(\"sunrise or sunset on clear day\", (0.5, 500/100e3)) ax.", "371" ], [ "From a physics standpoint, it's essentially irrelevant what mechanism is used to deliver some matter – whether by rocket or by particle stream, you'll still have to accelerate all that matter to the necessary escape velocity, and heaving all that mass out of Earth's gravity well still requires the same amount of physical work.\nRockets have one big disadvantage – they're subject to the rocket equation. They do not only have to lift the payload, but also the rocket engine and all fuel, and all fuel to lift that fuel, which is wildly inefficient[1]. Of course, there are ways to improve on that.\n* Launch the payload with an engine but without an energy source. The energy required for propulsion is provided externally, e.g. via solar panels or a ground-based laser. Reaction mass will still have to be taken along, which is subject to the rocket equation.\n* Use laser propulsion, where light itself transfers impulse onto the payload.\n* Perform all acceleration up front with a stationary device (e.g.", "574" ], [ "a railgun) so that the payload requires neither engines nor fuel. Due to the high accelerations, this tends to be unsuitable for delivering life forms alive, but for raw materials this poses no problem. This would be the most realistic option for cheaply delivering large quantities of low-priority cargo on an interplanetary scale. If you want to launch from Earth directly to the target planet, the friction caused by the atmosphere is a major problem (you do not want your cargo to burn up).\nDepending on a lot of variables (mostly, scale), the most economical solution would be either to use cheap rockets to lift cargo to an orbital railgun, providing initial delta-v to a small rocket via a mass driver, or building a ginormous vacuum tube up into the higher atmosphere through which cargo is accelerated. See for example the Star Tram concept as an interesting example, and the Surface to Orbit page on Project Rho for comparisons of various ground launch concepts.\nAccelerating large units (a couple of tons) from a stationary device is logistically easier than accelerating small units (microscopic dust or single molecules, i.e. a gas or a plasma). The latter requires additional energy to break down the materials in the first place, and a lot of effort to slow down, capture, and recombine the transferred matter.\n[1]: The technical term is “exponential”", "199" ], [ "The moon is a giant nuclear pile\nHere goes. If anyone is kind enough to fix my formatting, I'll be grateful. The moon has mass around 1 x10^23 kg, and radius 1.75 x10^6m. Earth has radius 1.3 x10^7m.\nAt 3.84 x10^8m distance, earth covers 0.0338 rad angular distance from the moon. (theta = arcsin (radius/distance)).\nThis means it covers 0.00564 of the moon's night sky (areafrac = 1-cos(pi x theta)). And the sky is only half the angular area that the moon would send radiation to.\nSo for every watt received at the atmosphere of earth, the moon would have to emit 2 / arcfrac watts = 354.6 W.\nIn real life we receive 1.73 x10^14 watts of solar energy at the surface, with about 50% having been reflected into space. So earth received 3.46x10^14W total.\nThat means the moon would have to emit 354.6 x 3.46 x10^14W = 1.227 x10^17W, or 3.869 x10^24 J in a year.\nA kg of uranium emits about 8.2 x10^13 J/kg when fissioned.", "921" ], [ "So the burn rate of uranium is 3.869 x10^24 / 8.2 x10^13 = 4.72 x10^10 kg per year.\nIf this moon lasts 10^12 years, it has mass mass 9.44 x10^22 kg. This is pretty darned close to the real life mass of the moon.\nThis means that this moon of pure uranium, density 19000 g/m^3, has volume 4.97 x10^18 m^3. That gives it a radius of 1.06 x10^6, about half that of the real moon (which makes sense, uranium is roughly 6 times denser than moon rock).\nIn other words, the moon looks and acts very much like the moon does now, but it's a bit smaller and is as bright as the sun.\nNow, of course, that moon will explode (right, physics crowd? I'm only a chemist / programmer).\nBut that's with it lasting 10^12 years. Shorten that lifespan by a factor of up to 1000 and substitute in inert moon rock. Now the moon lasts for a billion years. And it looks and acts just like the sun does now.\nThis assumes that with some proportion of U-235 between pure and 1 in 1000, the moon becomes a stable nuclear pile. And that's where I use my hands; I either hand wave the problem away, or I hand away the problem to a physicist.\nAlternatively, the ratio could be even lower, but the life of the sun is then shorter.\nPS What the heck are gamma rays and xrays? You're making things up, nothing to see here.", "921" ], [ "If a truly fuel-less launch mechanism existed, don't you think we'd be using it right now?\nEven air-breathing engines require fuel to heat and expand the air for thrust.\nOption 1:\nYour spacecraft deploys a space elevator down onto the planet. This'll probably require some preparation time. If your spacecraft has some manufacturing capability, it may harvest materials in asteroids and such to construct the cable and counter-balancing mass at +geostationary altitude (which could probably just be a raw, unprocessed asteroid tethered to the cable).\nThe spacecraft may aerobrake in the atmosphere if it is capable of doing so, but would need to ride the space elevator for perhaps a day or so to reach orbital altitude + velocity again.\nFor a fuel-less ride, the space elevator could have a matrix of solar panels at GEO for solar energy.\nOption 2:\nYour spacecraft deploys a rotating sky hook. Sky hooks are a type of momentum exchange tether. They are similar to space elevators but require much less cable & mass to build. They also require a large counter-balancing mass to exchange momentum with which, like the space elevator, could also be a captured asteroid.", "199" ], [ "Your spacecraft must simply be able to reach a target altitude & speed well below orbital and the tether carries you the rest of the way (no simple feat, but any competent spaceplane could make the rendezvous). If you don't care about the sky hook's orbit eventually decaying (possibly leaving you stranded if you can't reach it in time), you don't have to build any thrusters into it for orbital corrections (although there are a number of electrodynamic tethers that use the geomagnetics of planets for orbital corrections).\nThis is IMO the best option. The cable can be coiled-up and reused for later planetary excursions, and all one needs to do is find a large enough counter-mass (such as an asteroid) and to place the thing into the correct orbit.\nOption 3:\nYou leave your spacecraft in orbit and take a hypersonic airship down to the planet. This is JPAerospace's Airship-to-Orbit proposal for space launch & return missions. A mile-long, solar-powered hydrogen airship slowly decelerates to suborbital speeds over the course of a couple days, coming to rest several miles above sea level. (The airship is delicate due to mass constraints and must remain floating in the upper stratosphere to avoid high barometric pressures and weather conditions.) Smaller balloons/airships or heavier-than-air vehicles could then deploy from the orbital airship's cargo bay to peruse the planet at will.\nTo return to space, the orbital airship gradually builds up orbital speed & altitude over 2-3 days using solar-powered ion engines, rendezvousing with the main spacecraft.", "199" ] ]

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[ [ "The tale of robber the hood, steal from the not so rich to give to the poor\n<PERSON> lived in a tiny desert town. He worked at a pizza place , well call it \"papa John's\" lol. This papa johns happens to be next to a Marshalls... Every day theives would rob clothes, expensive ones too might I add, from Marshalls and run up the alley by <PERSON>.", "514" ], [ "One day <PERSON> decided that HE WANT THEM CLOTHES HO! , So he decided to start robbing the theives. What were they going to do? Call the cops lol. <PERSON> started waiting for the theives in the alley and raking in the clothes in between deliveries as a side gig. He took everything they stole and sold it at a discount price to all his friends and clients making way more than his pizza job ever did! All while technically never stealing from the <PERSON> himself lol.... Based on a true story", "86" ], [ "Blue Beetle\nThis movie was 10 years too late to be cool.\nThe plot is identical to Ant-Man. A suit is stolen, the main character puts it on and is basically forced to become a superhero. There’s also a villain who is the same as the hero but a different color. Red Beetle! lets gooo!!!\nThe suit is like a mix between iron spider and moon knight.", "387" ], [ "The suit talks to the guy like in homecoming and it covers his body on command like moon knight.\nThe family dynamic is like Ms <PERSON>. Both families are part of a minority group in America and they support the hero by being kind of annoying.\nPossibly the middest movie I’ve ever seen. There was nothing good and also nothing bad. Best DC movie of the year so far!!", "217" ], [ "How much would it cost to build 100 fallout shelters?\nIn 2068,before a nuclear war starts, a company backed by the federal government decides to build a bunch of shelters to protect some of the population from the coming apocalypse. My question is how much would it cost to build all these shelters. To start of with, each shelter is built three feet under ground with reinforced concrete and is powered by a thorium reactor which is maintained by the inhabitants. The shelters are all very big, about 75,000 square feet of room. There are about a thousand rooms big enough to house 6 people comfortably. Each room contains 4 beds and sone extra closet space. All the people share 15 large public washrooms that all the inhabitants share together. There are 6 large cafeterias connected to the greenhouses the grow all the food. The also keep livestock like sheep, cattle, chickens pigs, and some bourses. They also have a large vault of cryogenically frozen seeds to plant after they get out. They also have a large armory with enough weapons like laser rifles, body armor, and energy grenades to supply an army of 1,000 people.", "934" ], [ "And to train people they have simulations of the outside world to prepare them. There are hospitals with all the latest gear to treat people if illnesses, and a vast storage facility to keep everything they’ll need to survive. They have water purification machines, water tablets, and life straws. Also they keep lots of power tools like drills and chainsaws and weaving looms. To help grow the population each couple is expected to have at least 3 kids. When they reach the age of four, they are taken to a development center were they are taught reading, writing, history, science, and mathematics. They are ther four 12 years until they graduate. There is a library containing nearly every book in digital storage. There is also a fairly large hospital, and a radio for communicating with others. The shelter also provides clothing of blacks turtlenecks , black pants,and grey hiking boots for men and light green skirts and gold sandals for women. So how much would all this cost to build. I expect it to be somewhere in the 100s of trillions of dollars, what do all you say", "998" ], [ "Cookies and Mom\nWife made cookies last night for game night and the kids were of course circling.. they asked for bedtime snack. Wife had made 3 or 4 different types but two types of snickerdoodles - frosted and not.", "201" ], [ "She tols the kids they couls have one of each (intending one of each type of anickerdooddle).\nMiddle kid gets one of everyyhing on his plate and starts chowing down before Mom realizes what is going on. When asked he responded with, \"Well, you said one of each..\"\nNo complaints of tummy ache and he's currently at his second aoccer game of the morning. I, meanwhile have fewer cookies to eat!", "323" ], [ "<PERSON>\n<PERSON> in this movie is a GIFT. he spends half of it utterly convinced that this talking bear is trying to scam him. he sees <PERSON> in the train station and is all “everybody keep moving, there’s some sort of bear up ahead that’s probably trying to sell something” as though he is constantly stopped on the tube by bears that are trying to sell him things.", "295" ], [ "and he says shit like “<PERSON> DON’T. 34% of pre-breakfast accidents involve bannisters.” and he’s married to <PERSON> so i’m very jealous of him. anyway join me on the BAFTA for Bonneville train when the 3rd one drops", "378" ], [ "Glad I left that hell hole\nWhen I was 16, I got a job at a café. At first I enjoyed it but I would make mistakes. I accidently spilled a drink on a lady, apologised and cleaned it up, and accidently dropped a bowel. I then got put to the kitchen where I had to wash things by hand.", "201" ], [ "Unfortunately the café was very popular and things got really busy, really quickly and I tried my best to be quick and not break stuff. Throughout this, I felt my colleagues begin not to like me and it effected me and i broke down at work. On my last shift, I still tried to do the job I was hired to do and when I tried to help, the other colleagues said 'it's find I've got this\" \"we don't need your help\" and \"__ tray for table six\". The next day, they fired me as they said customers complained and that I clearly wasn't happy.", "13" ], [ "Eating habits among the Children.\nI'm In a but of a pickle... I have a 1 almost 2 year old catahula hound lab mix, a 10 almost 11 month old ginger cat and recently a few week old kitten( gray tabby). My dog likes cat food, my kitten likes adult cat fancy feast and my 10 month old likes kitten food. <PERSON> tried different ways on feeding them but some how they all just eat each others food.", "747" ], [ "I'v even resorted to feeding them one at a time.\nThe dog doesn't take long to eat so she normally goes first. The cats are in the room when I do this arrangement. However when going to the room to grab something the cats run right out and it's square one all over again. Any advice helps..", "311" ], [ "Story about restoring magic\nThe story has two point of views. In the first a farm girl somehow ends up moving to a city, and working for a nobleman. She ends up falling in love with the nobleman's friend and constant companion. The nobleman is working to recover the last secrets of magic, which he believes are hidden in folk stories and songs. He is portrayed as very dedicated to this task, commonly forgetting to eat while he spends hours working. The girl works for him copying the spell manuscripts that the Noble obtains or produces.. At some point the Noble takes on students/apprentices The nobleman thinks that she cannot read and is merely copying the shapes but she can actually read and notices that the manuscripts he gives her to copy have been changed from the original form, specifically the manuscripts intended to give extended life. It seems that the Noble did this maliciously and intends to gain power over his friend and his students.", "412" ], [ "The girl and the noble's friend plan to escape with the original copies, but the nobles friend never shows up and the girl ends up getting her memory erased by the Noble. She ends up living on the streets of the city and eventually opens a cheese shop. She is apparently immortal as she does not age, the apparent effect of the age extending manuscript, and closes and reopens the cheese shop every few decades so no one noticed her lack of aging. The novel ends with some attack? on the city and as she evacuatesone of the noble's students directs her out of the city\nThe second point of view is that of a boy in the future, many years after the girl was born. Magic has been restored and he goes to the academy to learn it. At the academy all the teachers are the noble's students from the girl's chapters. Life at the academy is very tough and there is intense competition to be the best. The boys end up murdering one of the others for reasons I cannot remember.\nAny suggestions?", "1012" ] ]

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[ [ "Beautiful Nursery Decor With Wire and Wool\nIntroduction: Beautiful Nursery Decor With Wire and Wool\nI received my first 3d printer for Christmas and I'm learning fusion 360 right now.\nWhy do I tell? Well, because it's the beginning of this instructable idea.\nI started with fusion 360 and I needed to design something which is not too complicated, but still useful. I draw a tube and somehow it reminded me of my Kindergarten time when we used to craft a lot with wool and spool knitting. I didn't spool knit or french knit (or used the Strickliesel, how it's called in german) for an age but I still remembered the fun I had doing it. But what to do with the created wool-worms?\nIf you google \"wool and wire\" you can find a lot of nursery decor signs.\nIt's not new, but it's new to me.\nAnd I like the outcome :-)\nA nursery decor sign for a friend's grandniece, I hope she (and her parents) like it too.\nI hear you saying \"But I don't have a 3d printer\" or \"But I don't want to wait until the print is finished\"? Quickly jump over to step 4.\nStep 1: Tools and Material\nMaterial:\n* Wool in your preferred color ( I used 50g/165m (1oz3/4 / 180yds.))\n* Wire (I used 1mm/0.039\" but I would use 1,2mm/0.047'' the next time, because it's a little bit wabbly)\n* scotch tape\n* thread for stitching the parts together\n* opt: an old pen with big diameter\n* opt: heat shrink tubing\nTools:\n* side cutter\n* small plier\n* 3d printer\n* crochet needle fitting to your wool size (I used a 3mm hook)\n* needle\n* paper\n* pencil\n* opt: lighter\nStep 2: The French Knitting Spool Tool\nMy spool knit design doesn't look fancy, but you can believe me, it took me a long time until I got it into the shape that I imagined.\nThe design is also attached, so feel free to print your own.\n1. Print your tube (I used black pla)\n2. Cut of 5cm /2\" of the wire and bend it to an u-shape\n3. Or much easier, stick your wire into one of the holes, set your pliers and bend the wire around the pliers, then just cut it to an equal lenght\n4. Repeat until you have 4 u-shapes\n5. Stick the \"U\"s into the holes in your tube (if they don't fit well enough, add a tiny drop of super glue to fix it)\n6. Bend the upper part of the closed \"U\"s a little bit apart, this will help you later with not losing your stitches while knitting\nCreate a knitting helper\nWhile you could just use a simple piece of wire, or a small hook, I created myself a little helper (as you can see in the pictures)\nStep 3: How to French Knitting\n1. Lead your wool through the knitting tube\n2. Attach it to the bottom, either fix it with your palm or stick a piece of tape to it\n3.", "812" ], [ "Start wrapping your wool around your hooks; counterclockwise around each hook, but clockwise around all four of them (please have a look at the pictures, it's hard to explain with words, but very easy to see :-) )\n4. When you reach your first hook again, keep the wool tight and above your loop.\n5. Use your wire (or crochet hook) to move the loop from the bottom and guide it over the hook. Your tightened wool is now the \"new loop\"\n6. Continue with the next hook\n7. Repeat until you reach the desired lenght.\n8. Then cut off your wool at 10cm/4'' and instead of creating a new loop with your wool, pull the loose end through the loops and take them of the hooks\nStep 4: But I Don't Have a 3d Printer\nWell, but maybe you have an old big pen, or another small diameter tube (should be a diameter around 10mm/0.4'')\n1. Cut your wire and form it into u-shapes (you need 4 \"U\"s\n2. Take apart your pen\n3. Tape the \"U\"s in an equal distance onto your tube\n4. Secure the ends with more tape\n5. Bend the closed part of the \"U\"s a little bit apart\n6.", "316" ], [ "Rotatable Ferris Wheel Pop-Up Card\nIntroduction: Rotatable Ferris Wheel Pop-Up Card\nDo you know those foldable pop-up greeting cards?\nA few years ago I saw them on different handcrafting markets (nowadays you can find them almost in every bookselling store) and I was really fascinated. Especially by the Ferris wheel card. They looked so filigree and huge and impressive and beautiful. Very special...\nBut there was one point that I thought might be even better than \"just\" a Ferris wheel pop-up card and that would be if the wheel would be turnable. But all the cards I saw were \"just\" fixed.\nSo I started about constructing a turnable Ferris wheel. That was almost exactly 3 years ago and since then I worked on the prototype until I was satisfied and now I can show you my version of a rotatable Ferris wheel pop-up card.\nThe pop-up card is done using a desktop cutting machine and the files are constructed to be used by one. But since I know, that not everyone has a cutting machine, I added a less filigree version as a pdf, so you can print the files and cut them by hand with an X-Acto knife (but that might take a while :-) )\nI start with my learnings over the different prototypes, then in Step 3 you'll find the desktop cutting version and its assembling and in Step 8 you'll find the print and hand-cut version.\nEnjoy the making.\nStep 1: Material and Tools\nMaterial:\n* 30x30cm (12\"x12\") heavyweight cartridge paper (220g/m³) in blue (or every other color)\n* 30x30cm (12\"x12\") heavyweight cartridge paper (220g/m³) in white\n* white thread\n* paper glue\nTools:\n* desktop cutting machine\n* needle\n* optional: scissors, x-acto knife\n* cutting mat\nCut the files with your desktop cutting machine or print the pdf and cut them by hand.\nStep 2: Learning Steps and Prototypes (a Short Overview)\n1) The first thing I learned while constructing my first pop-up card was: If you want an element to fold flat, it is necessary that all folding hinges have the same direction. Seems to be obvious, but it wasn't for me at the very first moment.\n2) If you want to keep an unfixed element in place you need a good guiding structure. In this case for the wheel on its stand, and for the Ferris wheel gondolas on their suspensions.\n3) If you want to keep an unglued suspension in place you should make sure that it doesn't fall out when you turn the slot in the wheel 180 degrees.\n4) If you fix a pop-up on the card there are specific points where you can fix it so it folds flat while closing the card. Unfortunately, until now it's still a try and error for me because I couldn't find a geometrical calculation to define the distance between the two fixing points and their position on the card. So if you are keen on geometrical calculations feel free to help me out :-)\nStep 3: Assembling the Upper Part of the Ferris Wheel\nYou need:\n* 2 white wheels\n* 2 blue fixing disks\n* 2 blue axes\n* 2 blue side stands\nPlease have a look at the pictures, there is a legend with the description of the parts.\n1.", "116" ], [ "Take one of the white ferris wheels and set it onto one axis.\n2. Slide the second axis next to it and fix the axes with the fixing disk. Make sure that the Ferris wheel does not slip with the slot.\n3. Now slide the 2 axes through the slots at the Ferris wheel side stand. Make sure that the small hole at the bottom is on the right side.\n4. If you find it hard to grab, you can also pull gently with tweezers, to have a better grip.\n5. Turn the element around and repeat on the other side.\n6. Slide the white wheel on the 2 axes.\n7. Fix it with the fixing disk.\n8. And slide the axes into the ferris wheel side stand slots. Make sure that the small hole at the bottom of the ferris wheel stand is on the right side.\nStep 4: Assembling the Bottom Part of the Ferris Wheel\nPlease have a look at the pictures, there is a legend with the description of the parts.\nYou need the 7 cross pieces\na) 2 pieces with 2 holes in the middle\nb) 3 pieces with slots from the top side\nc) 2 pieces with slots from the bottom side\n1. Slide the first a) piece in the first slot of the Ferris wheel side stand.\n2.", "276" ], [ "Washi Tape Koinobori\nIntroduction: Washi Tape Koinobori\nKoinobori, are Japanese carp shaped streamers that are traditionally flown on Children's Day - May 5th.\nThis version is made out of a empty toilet paper roll, some wide tape and lots of colorful washi tape.\nIt's really easy to make and comes out very pretty and colorful.\nSupplies\nToilet paper roll\nWide tape (5cm) - I used white tape because my toilet paper roll was not white.\ncolorful washi tape\nscissors.\nOptional:\nwooden bbq sticks\nhot glue gun\nStep 1: Heads and Tails\nFlatten and tape closed one end of the toilet roll. Over that add an additional layer of wide tape leaving an edge of tape at the end.\nIf you need to - cover the other end of the toilet roll with white tape (because my roll was not white).\nOn the open, mouth side - cover the edge with colored tape and tuck the overlap into the mouth.\non the closed, tail side - cover with a band of tape all around, then mark out scales and cut them out.\nStep 2: Add the Scales\nFor each row of scales -\n1. Cut a long piece of wide tape and fold over 1cm (fold the entire length).\n2. On the non tacky side you add a long piece of colorful tape. Then cut the scalloped 'scale' shape along the colored tape.\n3. Wrap the wide tape around the roll so that each row of 'scales' partially overlaps. Cut off the excess tape.\n4. Make the next line of scales..\nStep 3: Add Fins\nWhen you have about 60% of the length of the roll covered (from the tail end), its time to add fins.\n1.", "6" ], [ "Make 1 more line of regular scales. Remove about 2cm of those scale on each side.\n2. Cut a length of wide tape (about 6cm). Fold the long end over by 2cm now, leaving 1cm of tacky tape.\n3. For each fin use 2 pieces of 5cm color tape (going in the other direction now). Make sure not to cover the tacky part of the white tape.\n4. I shaped each fin like a large scale with a width of 2cm.\n5. Tape each fin into the gap you left in the last row of scales.\nStep 4: Finish Up\nAdd 1 last row of scales to partially cover the row of the fins.\nDraw some googly eyes.\nIf you want - add a spot of hot glue at the bottom and attach a bbq stick... now it can decorate a plant\nDone!!!", "636" ], [ "Oven Mitt From Recycled Materials\nIntroduction: Oven Mitt From Recycled Materials\nI saw that my friend's oven mitts were beyond repair, so I decided to make him some new ones.\nEverything I needed was found in my storage boxes, and in the kitchen I found an oven mitt to serve as an example.\nI used the following materials:\nFor the outer side\n* some leather from an old sofa, that I kept because the reverse side of the boring leather turned out to be a beautiful blue suede\n* jeans with worn knees, 100% cotton\nFor the padded lining\n* a duvet (or comforter) that was torn, made from non-woven fabric 100% polypropylene, and a filling from 100 % polyester (already 100% recycled)\nAlternatively, you can use old towels, shrunken wool sweaters or cotton woolfor the padding, and for instance a cotton shirt for the lining.\nTools I used:\n* a sewing machine\n* thread and pins\n* scissors\n* a marker\n* an iron and ironing board\nStep 1: Fabric and Pattern\nFABRIC:\nYou will need pieces of approx 38 x 26 cm or 15 x 10 1/4 inch.\nSpacious pieces of fabric make it easier to trim the excess fabric later.\n* fabric of choice for the 2 outer layers.\n* insulation or padding. Although the leather offers some heat protection, more protection doesn't hurt. I used the filling from the duvet.\n* lining. I used 2 layers of non-woven fabric from the duvet.\n* some bias binding or twill tape for the loop.\n* fabric or ribbon to finish off the opening.\nPATTERN:\nDownload the PDF. It's at the bottom of this step. Print the document and make sure it's printed on a 100% scale. Tape the pages together, there are marks to make it easier.\nCut out the pattern.\nIMPORTANT:\nIf you follow this instructable correctly, you will end up with a left-hand mitt. To make it right-hand, just switch the leather and jeans layers.\nStep 2: Preparing the Padded Lining\nPin the paper pattern on a piece of non-woven fabric and follow the contours with a marker.\nThen pin together a layer of non-woven fabric, padding, and another layer of non-woven fabric.\nStitch a few lines across to hold them together.", "316" ], [ "There is no need to be very exact at this point.\nRepeat this step for the other padded lining.\nStitch one part together with a narrow hem, following the contours of the marker lines, and trim this part roughly.\nStep 3: Putting the Layers Together\nNow it's time to stitch all layers together.\nFold a ribbon and put it between the middle layers to create a loop. The loop must point inwards.\nPlace the pieces in the following order (i.e. Right sides together):\nPadded lining / Leather / Folded Ribbon / Jeans / Padded lining.\nStitch together with a 5-7 mm hem, but not at the bottom!\nStep 4: Cut Out and Zigzag\nCut off the excess material.\nZigzag around the hem. Again, not at the bottom!\nStep 5: Turn Inside Out\nTo turn the mitt inside out, put your hand between the middle layers. Push the outside inward with your other hand.\nIt is best to start with the thumb.\nStep 6: Finishing Off\nYou can finish off the opening with bias binding, or twill tape, which is much easier than making this colorful finish I made because it matched the colors of my friend's kitchen. But if you want to:\nCut off a piece of fabric, about 5 x 40 cm or 2 x 15 3/4 inch.\nZigzag it.\nFold a 1-1.5 cm hem. If it doesn't stick, iron it. Fold over a hem at one 5 cm side.\nStitch it to the inside, beginning with the hemmed side.\nFold it over, and stitch it to the right side, making a folded overlap at the end.\nStep 7: Ready\nOne beautiful left-hand oven mitt.", "748" ], [ "Woven Embroidery, Sunflower Necklace\nIntroduction: Woven Embroidery, Sunflower Necklace\nEver since I followed the embroidery class here on Instructacles I have been learning about different kinds of embroidered flowers. I hope some day to make a flower rainbow and show you all of them, but this one will have to do for now.\nI love this woven embroidery technique which allows the petals to be loose from the background. This is the first time I am trying it because it never really fit into any of my projects.\nI got my inspiration here.\nThis is NOT a beginner friendly project. My end result is far from perfect and though I am no expert, I have been embroidering for years.\nStill it was fun to be learning a new skill.\nSupplies\n* Embroidery floss, brown and yellow\n* Fabric\n* Mini embroidery hoop\n* Pins\n* Needle\n* Pencil, or something to draw with on the fabric\n* Scissors\n* Felt\nStep 1: Plan Your Flower\nYou can make this as a lapel pin or a necklace, or just to add some directly in a floral piece.\nThe size depends on what you want to use it for.\nI will place mine in a the miniature embroidery hoop.\nMini embroidery hoops are not like normal embroidery hoops, they are not bend. In stread they are (laser)cut from triplex, which makes them quite fragile.\nSo in order to prevent them from breaking, use relatively light weight fabric and don't embroider over the edge, because it adds bulk that you can't get the hoop arround.\nAs you can see in the pictures I drew a safety margin.", "644" ], [ "This is no issue with this project because the petals will hide the fabric anyway.\nI only drew the placement of the petals after the next step, but you can do it here if you like.\nStep 2: The Heart of the Flower\nMost embroidered sunflowers I've seen have a french knot center and this works really well for big pieces.\nHowever for small pieces, this woven technique really captures the overall look of the sunflower\nWarp\nI looked at the woven lines in my fabric and used those to make sure my lines where straight\nBring your needle to the front of the fabric on your circle outline and then pass your needle to the back where the pencil outline crosses the same line in your weft.\nPut the threads about a thread width appart, this makes the weaving easier.\nGo from left-to-left and right-to-right to move between the lines. This keeps the back neat (as shown in the last picture)\nWeft\nYou make this the same way as the warp, you just weave these trough.\nIt is a simple weave, over - under- over - under.\nIf you went over a thread one way, you will need to go under it the next row and vise versa.\nContinue untill you filled your circle.\nStep 3: The Leaves\nI chose to go with eight leaves in stead of the six from the flower I am basing this instructable on.\nBecause a sunfower has quite a lot of petals and I think it just does not look right with just six leaves.\nThe length of the leaves is about 1/2 the center diameter.\nFor this relatively big sunflower I am using a five strings warp, for a small one you can just use three.\nLeaves\nIn the middle between two leaves I start my thread, go over the pin and to the middle on the other side.\nBring your needle up a little bit to the inside go over the pin and bring it to the back a little to the center of where you started.\nNow bring it up in the center, go over the pin and start weaving.\nIt does not matter if you start your weave over or under, however if you use five strands it does seem to help to hold the pin straight while you tighten the fist row. It gives a little loop if you leave it in place.\nTo make sure you don't pull your thread too tight, you can use a pin as shown in the last picture.\nStep 4: More Leaves\nI was not satisfied with this one row of leaves. With a small (penny sized) flower it looks great, but in this size it just did not quite resemble a sunflower to me.\nSo I made an alternating row behind the leaves that were already in place. This also hides the fabric that would be showing if you put it in the mini hoop with just one layer of leaves.\nStep 5: Place in Hoop\nWith the embroidery done it is time to place the flower in the mini hoop.", "694" ], [ "Floating Bowls - Tensegrity - 3D Printed\nIntroduction: Floating Bowls - Tensegrity - 3D Printed\nWith \"Floating Bowls\" I have designed two more models on the subject \"Tensegrity\". There are 2 different bowls (circle/octagon) and 2 different middle parts (arc/rhombus). You can arrange it as you like!\nDimensions: bowls Ø135mm, base Ø 80mm, height 130-145mm\nFiles to print:\n* Floating Bowl_circle.stl\n* Floating Bowl_octagon.stl\n* Floating Bowl_mid-arco.stl\n* Floating Bowl_mid-rhombo.stl\n* Floating Bowl_socket.stl\nPrint instructions:\n* Printer brand: Prusa\n* Printer: I3 MK3S\n* Supports: No\n* Resolution: 0,18\n* Infill: 20%\n* Filament brand: Prusa; ICE\n* Filament color: Silver; Romantic Red, Young Yellow\nAfter you have printed the parts ...\nRemark: As all parts are designed to fit very precisely, it may happen that you have to rework one or the other part a bit with sandpaper and/or cutter due to different dimensional accuracy of the printers and the different behavior of the filaments.\nSupplies\nFor the assembly you need:\n* Nylon string Ø 0.35mm\n* Superglue\n* Stop angle\n* Cutter knife\n* Sandpaper\n* Patience -;)\nStep 1: Installing Middle Parts - Socket\nStart to insert one of your chosen middle part (\"Floating Bowl_mid-arco.stl\" or \"Floating Bowl_mid-rhombo.stl\") into the socket ... into the hole provided. The arrows at the bottom are there to align the middle parts correctly. You should place them as shown in the 4th picture! To ensure a good fit, the fitting accuracy is very tight. It may be necessary to correct the fit with a cutter knife or sandpaper. Then apply superglue. For a correct alignment you should use a stop angle!\nStep 2: Installing Middle Parts - Bowl\nNow insert the other middle part into the bowl ... into the hole provided. The arrow at the bottom is there to align the middle parts correctly. You should place them as shown in the 4th picture! To ensure a good fit, the fitting accuracy is very tight. It may be necessary to correct the fit with a cutter knife or sandpaper. Then apply superglue.", "858" ], [ "For a correct alignment you should use a stop angle!\nStep 3: Connection of Middle Parts\nAs tensioning thread take preferably a nylon string Ø 0.35mm … thread or dental floss will also do the job!\nThen insert a thread - with a multiple knot at one end - into the holes the middle parts. The distance there in the string area should be about 20 - max. 25mm. Make a larger knot at the other end. When the middle parts are glued tightly, you can start with the next step ...\nStep 4: Inserting Nylon Threads - Bowl\nNow you need 3 threads of about 25-30cm. At the bottom of the bowl you see 3 little holes. Take one string and make a multiple knot at one end and then pull the thread through one hole of the bowl.\nDo the same with the other two holes.\nThe next step will be the essential one ... create the tension structure!\nStep 5: Create Tension\nPlace the bowl with the bottom side facing up. Then feed the thread through a hole in the socket. Pay attention to the alignment of the middle parts (see picture 4). At first just clamp the thread. If the notch is not clean, try to open it with a cutter knife.\nDo the same with the other two threads.\nNow you can start with the adjustment. Do not tighten the threads too much, otherwise the middle parts could deform. So when the threads are slightly tightened, socket and bowl are aligned horizontally, then you can secure the threads. Hurray! That's it! … the bowl is floating!\nStep 6: Color and Material Suggestions\nSome more color and material combinations in 3D model.", "748" ], [ "Leather Travel Chess Board\nIntroduction: Leather Travel Chess Board\nHi all,\nduring <PERSON> I rediscovered chess for me. This, in combination with a gifted old leather bag grew the idea of producing a well-portable magnetic travel chess board.\nTo create this nice space-saving chess board you can take wherever you want, you will need the following things:\nSupplies\n- a sheet of leather (appr. 30x30cm) - a 3D printer - wood (optional) filament - 32 little magnets - ferro-foil - cloth (appr. 30x30cm) - leather dye - sewing equipment - (spray) paint\nStep 1: Creating the Chess Stones\nCreate the CAD files for your chess stones or be as lazy as I am and download some from the internet. Shout out to moka401 for the perfect design! Check him out on thingiverse:\nhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4847312\nWhat I did next was to create little cavities on the bottom of the stones. Here the magnets are glued in place. This is what I like doing in Tinker CAD, fast small changes in existing STL files.", "622" ], [ "It is very convenient for such tasks.\nThen print two sets of chess teams.\nThen put in the magnets (I glued them in place). The small round magnets for the closing mechanism of GIZEH cigaret paper packages make very good magnets for such a task.\nThen paint one set of the stones. I spray painted them\nStep 2: Produce the Playing Field\nI was lucky that I got some real sheep leather from a bag that I could use.\nCut the leather according to the size of your chess stones. (8x8 little squares)\nPaint the playing field (leather dye is very effective)\nMake a sandwich of the leather, the magnetic ferro foil and the cloth. Sew the cloth to the leather, leaving space for the ferro foil to move a little bit. This is because you wand do roll this sandwich lateron. And if the ferro foil does not have enough space there is a lot of tension and you cannot roll it properly!\nStep 3: Travel in Style and Play\nThe magnetic attraction will keep your game alive and kicking even in windy situations.\nThe stones attach to each other and can be rolled up in the centre of the leather playing field.", "636" ], [ "Matisse Inspired Statement Necklace Made From SVG in Tinkercad\nIntroduction: Matisse Inspired Statement Necklace Made From SVG in Tinkercad\nThis project combines my love for quirky jewellery and my fascination with Matisse. I got the idea to make Matisse inspired necklace by watching <PERSON> jewellery collection. I'm using plastic instead of acrylic, so this project will be accessible to most people with 3D printers.\nI'm also explaining how to process pictures/outlines/prints into SVG files to be used in Tinkercad and create unique pieces of jewellery.\nYou will need:\n3D printed parts\nPlastic filler (Tamiya), spray-on filler (optional)\nSanding paper, knife for cleaning the prints\nAcrylic paints, spray-on varnish\nJewellery findings- chains, eye pins, jump rings etc\nThin pliers\nStep 1: Finding a Model\nI was focused mainly on Matisse, so my search was quite limited, but you can obviously find different shapes to make your necklace. Search for clean pictures/prints, outlines, stencils, and don't allow too many small details. For my 3-part necklace I used an SVG file I had on my computer for ages. I'm no artist, but I had a vision for my necklace and I ended up using paper to cut those shapes out. I then had a friend convert my misshapen paper into a clean looking JPG.\nThe remaining two necklaces (Algae and Wave) I made myself using a combination of Paint, Paint 3D, photo editor and then used https://convertio.co to convert everything to SVG.\nStep 2: How to Make a 3-part Necklace\nCheck each picture, I added notes to explain the process.\n1. Upload all three SVG files and play around. Check different positions, different angles etc.\n2. I wanted the shapes to look as thought they overlap each-other, so I had to cut into them.\nFirst, click on the middle shape, duplicate it, and then make it hollow. Click on the left and middle shape and press 'GROUP' button. Left object has been cut now, middle hollow object disappeared, but the original solid remained. Repeat this process and cut into the middle object.\n3. Flip the entire necklace 180°, so we can access the back. I'm using a thin metal rod to connect all pieces, so I had to cut appropriate shape at the back. It's simply a small rectangle with a small rod down the middle. I duplicated it and distributed the connectors in places where parts meet.", "974" ], [ "I then duplicated each connector, converted them into hollow objects and cut them out of all shapes.\n4. Flip the necklace 180° to face the top and add holes for necklace chain.\nStep 3: Three Ways to Attach a Necklace Chain\nMETHOD 1\nFor this method you will need eye pins and a lighter. Create a small (1.2mmx10mm) rod and insert it into the necklace and create a hole (2nd picture). Once the necklace is printed, you will heat up an eye pin and insert it into that hole.\nMETHOD 2\nThird option is creating a small hole and affixing it to the necklace. Use two cylinders (3mmx3mm and 1.8x1.8mm), align them, so the smaller one it straight down the middle of the larger one. Convert the small cylinder into a hollow object and group them both together to create a hole.\nStep 4: How to Edit and Convert - the Easy Way\nI found my Wave Bib in a very clean picture with no complex background. I cut the desired object out of the picture (using Paint 3D) and converted it to SVG. The file ended up very neat and, once uploaded to Tincercad, resulted in a clean object.\nStep 5: How to Edit and Convert - the Timeconsuming Way\nAlgae Bib really tested my patience, but was well worth it in the end. The picture I used was not only a screenshot, but it had a very busy background, not to mention that the actual shape was white, not black.\n1. I used Paint to invert colours and then moved to Photo editor to play with white balance. Sometimes that's all it takes, changing the light to make the background disappear and the object to pop-up. In this case it didn't work. Background changed into uniform white, but parts of the black object washed out. I converted it into SVG and uploaded it to see what it would look like. As you can see it was pitted all over\n2. I had to cover those washed out parts using Paint 3D. Once the whole object was uniformly black I was able to play with the actual shape of the necklace. I removed one part completely and moved the middle part down.\n3.", "110" ] ]

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[ [ "How can the shortest traveling salesman tour be found in $O(2^n poly(n))$ time and less than exponential space?\nI'm stuck on problem 9.4 from The Nature of Computation which reads:\nDynamic Salesman. A naive search algorithm for TSP takes $O(n!)$ time to check all tours. Use dynamic programming to reduce this to a simple exponential, i.e., to solve TSP in $O(2^npoly(n))$ time. Can you do this without using an exponential amount of memory? Hint: work out Problems 3.31 and 3.32.\nThe first part is relatively straightforward. Given a graph, a set of previously visited vertices, a start vertex, and a target vertex, go through all neighbors of the start vertex that haven't been visited already and recursively solve the TSP starting from the neighbor. Then add the distance between start and neighbor to each and return the minimum. The base case, which returns $0$, occurs when $start = target$ and all vertices have been visited.\nThere are $2^n$ possible inputs for the set of previously visited vertices and $n^2$ possibilities for the start and target vertices. Since each call performs $O(n)$ work we get a dynamic programming algorithm with time complexity $O(2^n \\cdot n^2 \\cdot n) = O(2^npoly(n))$.\nThe tricky part is the exponential amount of memory, since the cache used by dynamic programming might grow exponentially large. What do the hints suggest? Problem 3.31 asked to solve Hamiltonian Path in $2^npoly(n)$ time, which could be done with the same idea I presented just now.\nProblem 3.32 is more promising. It asked to show that the number of Hamiltonian paths from $s$ to $t$ can be computed in $2^npoly(n)$ time and $poly(n)$ space by evaluating the following expression:\n$$\\sum_{S\\subseteq V}(-1)^{|S|}|q(S)|,$$\nwhere $q(S)$ is the set of paths from $s$ to $t$ of length $n-1$ not visiting any vertex in $S$.", "180" ], [ "($|q(S)|$ can be computed relatively easily by iterating the adjacency matrix of $V\\setminus S \\quad n-1$ times.)\nTo prove this claim first observe that the number of Hamiltonian paths can be expressed like so:\n$$|q(\\emptyset)| - |\\bigcup_{v_i}q({v_i})|$$\nwhich is the total number of paths minus the number of non-Hamiltonian paths, i.e. the paths not visiting some vertex $v_i$ (all of length $n-1$). Using the inclusion-exclusion-principle the second term can be rewritten as\n$$|\\bigcup_{v_i}q({v_i})| = -\\sum_{S\\subseteq V\\setminus \\emptyset}(-1)^{|S|}|\\bigcap_{v_i\\in S}q({v_i})|$$\nSome further thought will then reveal the equivalence $q(A) \\cap q(B) = q(A \\cup B)$. (A path that avoids everything in $A$ and everything in $B$ also avoids everything in the union of $A$ and $B$. Similarly a path that avoids everything in $A$ or $B$ also avoids everything in $A$ and everything in $B$.)\nWith this our expression then becomes\n$$|q(\\emptyset)| + \\sum_{S\\subseteq V\\setminus \\emptyset}(-1)^{|S|}|q(S)| = \\sum_{S\\subseteq V}(-1)^{|S|}|q(S)|\\qquad \\Box$$\nSo how does this help finding the shortest traveling salesman tour? I see two options. Either use the algorithm laid out just now as a subroutine. Or reuse the ideas from the proof.\nThe first option seems pretty fruitless to me. Any instance of TSP that isn't defined on a fully connected graph can be converted to such an instance by adding in the missing edges with astronomically large weights. Counting the number of Hamiltonian paths on any subset $S$ of such a graph then becomes trivially easy. Every permutation of vertices is a Hamiltonian path so it's $|S|!$. Problem 3.32 seems of absolutely no help then.", "180" ], [ "IP algorithm for finding path in graph\nSuppose for each positive integer $N$, we have a graph $G_N$ with $N$ vertices labelled $1$ to $N$ (so $\\log N$ bits are required to specify a vertex). Suppose we have a PSPACE algorithm to determine whether two given vertices in $G_N$ are adjacent (ie the space used is $P(\\log N)$ for some polynomial $P$). Consider the following decision problem:\nGiven integers $N,M$ and vertices $a,z$ in $G_N$, is there a path of length $\\leq M$ from $a$ to $z$ in $G_N$?\n(the size of the input is $3\\log N+\\log M$ bits). We can answer this problem using the following recursive algorithm:\ndef exists_path(N,M,a,z):\nif M == 0: return a == z\nif M == 1: return are_adjacent(N,a,z)\nfor b = 1 to N:\nif exists_path(N,M/2,a,b) and exists_path(N,(M+1)/2,b,z): return True\nreturn False\nThe recursion depth is $\\log M$, so the space used is $(3\\log N+\\log M)\\log M+P(\\log N)$. In particular the problem is in PSPACE.", "180" ], [ "Since IP=PSPACE, there must be an IP algorithm for this problem. In theory I can follow the proofs on wikipedia to encode the problem as a TQBF problem... but I doubt the result will be pretty.\nIs there an explicit IP algorithm for this problem?\nI'm happy to assume the adjacency problem is actually in P if it makes things simpler.\nNote that we can't just treat the adjacency algorithm as a black box. Indeed fix $k\\in(0,1)$ and consider two possible adjacency functions:\ndef are_adjacent1(N,a,z):\nreturn z == a + 1\ndef are_adjacent2(N,a,z):\nreturn z == a + 1 and a != ceil(k*N)\nThese represent graphs $G_N,G_N'$ where $G_N$ is a path graph and $G_N'$ is the same minus a single edge. Now hand are_adjacent1 to an honest prover and are_adjacent2 to an honest verifier. Since the verifier can only make $O(\\log N)$ calls to the adjacency function, with high probability it will never check the single missing edge, and be convinced that vertices $1$, $N$ are connected in $G_N'$, which is false.", "180" ], [ "$k$-Opt TSP Local Search is exact when $k = |V| - 1$\nI've been self-studying the book Algorithms by <PERSON>, <PERSON> and <PERSON>. I am having a hard time with a question about local search involving the traveling salesman problem (TSP).\nWe'll say a local search algorithm is exact if it always returns a globally optimal solution.\nConsider a local search algorithm for TSP that uses neighborhoods defined by $k$-change: two tours $T_0$ and $T_1$ are neighbors if one can delete $j \\leqslant k$ edges from $T_0$ and add back another $j$ edges to obtain $T_1$. This is known as the $k$-Opt algorithm.\nIt's easy to see and the book itself discusses how for low values of $k$ (relative to the number $n$ of vertices), $k$-Opt may get stuck on locally optimal solutions that are not globally optimal. In other words, $k$-Opt is not exact for these values of $k$.\nIn fact, in a previous question, it was shown $k$-Opt is not exact for $k = \\lceil n/2 \\rceil$. Now, I'd like to show that\n$k$-Opt is exact for $k = n-1$.\nI have a near solution which I describe below.\nGiven an optimal tour $T^$ , if some tour $T$ shares at least one edge with $T^$, then $(n-1)$-change can take $T$ directly to $T^*$.\nFor $n\\geqslant 5$, we can have a tour $T_0$ which shares no edge with a given optimal tour $T^$.\nSuppose there were intermediate tour $T_1$ that uses only edges from $T_0$ and $T^$, and at least one edge from each.\nIt's not too hard to see that in this situation, $T_1$ will have at least two edges from each of $T_0$ and $T^*$, though I couldn't make much use of this.\nNow, for such a tour $T_1$, there are three cases:\n* $\\text{cost}(T_1) < \\text{cost}(T_0)$.\nThis is the easiest. Either $\\text{cost}(T_1) = \\text{cost}(T^)$ and we're done, or else in another move we can take $T_1$ to $T^$ (since they now share at least one edge).\n* $\\text{cost}(T_1) = \\text{cost}(T_0)$\nIn this case, $\\text{cost}(T_1\\setminus T_0) = \\text{cost}(T_0\\setminus T_1)$.\nBy construction $T_1\\setminus T_0$ is a subset of the edges in $T^$, so we can remove those edges in $T^$ and replace them with $T_0\\setminus T_1$.", "180" ], [ "This replacement has no cost change, and hence leads to another globally optimal solution $T'$.\n$T'$ is then a globally optimal solution that shares at least one edge with $T_0$, and is hence reachable from $T_0$ in a single move.\n* $\\text{cost}(T_1) > \\text{cost}(T_0)$\nWe show this case is not possible. If it were, then $\\text{cost}(T_1\\setminus T_0) > \\text{cost}(T_0\\setminus T_1)$.\nLike above, we could then remove the edges $T_1\\setminus T_0$ from $T^$ and replace them with $T_0\\setminus T_1$. This time however, $\\text{cost}(T^)$ would decrease, contradicting the global optimality of $T^*$.\nThe only missing piece would be to show the existence of $T_1$. I could solve examples drawn by hand but have had trouble showing this formally.\nI would also like to add that the the existence of $T_1$ must be guaranteed (under the assumption that $(n-1)$-Opt is exact). Indeed, we can handcraft this scenario as follows.\nConsider a complete graph $G = (V, E)$ with $n = |V| ⩾ 5$. Let $T^$ and $T_0$ be edge-disjoint tours in $G$.", "433" ], [ "This problem can be solved in polynomial time by a product construction. Construct the graph $G^\\prime$ as follows:\n* The vertices of $G^\\prime$ are $(V \\times M) \\cup {#}$, i.e. all pairs of a vertex of $G$ and a state of $M$, together with an extra vertex identified by the arbitrary symbol $#$.\n* For each edge in $e \\in E$ from $v_1$ to $v_2$, add an edge in $G^\\prime$ from $(v_1, m_1)$ to $(v_2, m_2)$ with weight $w(e)$ if and only if there is an edge in $M$ from $m_1$ to $m_2$ that is labeled $\\ell(e)$.\n* For each accepting state $m$ in $M$, add an edge in $G^\\prime$ from $(t, m)$ to $#$ with weight 0.\nThen the shortest path in $G^\\prime$ from $(s, m_0)$ to $#$ (where $m_0$ is the initial state of $M$) gives the shortest path in $G$ from $s$ to $t$ matching $L(M)$.", "433" ], [ "There cannot be a negative cycle in $G^\\prime$, since dropping the $m$ states from the vertex labels would give a negative cycle in $G$, which we are assuming does not exist.\nThis also answers the question if $M$ is a DFA or regular expression instead of an NFA, since these can be converted to an equivalent NFA in polynomial time. We can also directly handle NFAs with $\\varepsilon$-transitions: if $M$ contains an $\\varepsilon$-transition from $m_1$ to $m_2$, add an edge in $G^\\prime$ with weight 0 from $(v, m_1)$ to $(v, m_2)$ for each $v \\in V$.\nFor fixed $M$, the product graph $G^\\prime$ has only linearly more vertices and edges than the original graph $G$. This means that any fixed problem of the form \"find the shortest path that visits edges in such-and-such order\", such as the problems linked in the question, can be solved just as fast as the ordinary shortest path problem asymptotically.\nAs an implementation detail, note that there is no need to actually write down the whole product graph in memory. The vertices and edges can be generated dynamically while running the shortest path algorithm, which allows unused vertices to be skipped entirely.", "433" ], [ "Let us consider the simpler versions of these problems where edges are unweighted.\n1. Given a graph $G$, check if $G$ has a cycle.\n2. Given a graph $G$ and a number $k$, check if $G$ has a cycle of length at least $k$.\nThe first one is easy and can be solved using DFS. The second one is NP-hard.\nLet's look at an even simpler problem:\n1. Given a graph $G$ and two vertices $s$ and $t$, check if there is a simple path from $s$ to $t$ in $G$.\n2. Given a graph $G$ and two vertices $s$ and $t$ and a number $k$, check if there is a simple path from $s$ to $t$ in $G$ of length at least $k$.\nAll of these problems are of the same flavor. The top one is easy while the bottom one is NP-hard. I will explain the difference for the last one because it is simpler but the same explanation applies to the other pairs.\nThe reason that the top ones are easy while the bottom ones are not is the result of the structure of the answers for these problems.\nLet's first look at the problem of finding a simple path and try to solve it recursively. If we just try to solve this problem directly we would need to keep track of the vertices that we have used so far:\n$SimplePath(s,t,G) :=$ there is a path from $s$ to $t$ in $G$.\n$SimplePath(s,t,G)$ iff\n$s=t$ or for some $u\\in G$ $SimplePath(s,u,G-t)$ and $ut \\in G$.\nIf we try to solve the problem with this naive recursive algorithm it will take exponential time: there exponentially many possibilities for the set of unused vertices! We have to be smarter.\nWhy did we get exponentially many possibilities? Because we were trying to find a simple path and to enforce this condition we needed to keep track of unused vertices.\nOK, so let's drop that condition and see where we can get:\nConsider the problem of a finding a path (not necessary simple) from $s$ to $t$.", "433" ], [ "Since the path doesn't need to be simple we don't need to keep track of unused vertices. In other words, the graph doesn't change over time.\n$Path^G(s,t) :=$ there is a path from $s$ to $t$.\n$Path^G(s,t)$ iff\n$s=t$ or\nfor some $u\\in G$ $Path^G(s,t)$ and $ut \\in G$.\nBut we are not done yet. The issue is that we don't know if $Path^G(s,u)$ is a smaller problem than $Path^G(s,t)$. So this recursive solution might end in a loop and never terminate.\nTo avoid this we can add an extra parameter that makes sure the problem gets smaller: the number of edges in the path.\n$Path^G(s,t,k) :=$ there is a path from $s$ to $t$ with at most $k$ edges.\n$Path^G(s,t,k)$ iff\n$k=0$ and $s=t$ or\n$k>0$ and for some $u\\in G$ $Path^G(s,u,k-1)$ and $ut \\in G$.\nNow note that there is a simple path from $s$ to $t$ iff there is a path from $s$ to $t$ with at most $n$ edges. In other words:\n$SimplePath(s,t,G)$ iff $Path^G(s,t,n)$.\nThe essential points here are:\n1. Every (nontrivial) simple path from $s$ to $t$ consists of a simple path from $s$ to some vertex $u$ and an edge $ut$.\n2. We can assume that $t$ does not appear in the simple path from $s$ to $u$.\n3. We don't need to explicitly keep the list of unused vertices.\nThese properties allow us to have a smart recursion for the existence of a simple path problem.\nNow these do not apply to the problem of finding a path of length at least $k$. We don't know how to reduce the problem of finding a simple path of length at least $k$ to a smaller subproblem without keeping the list of unused vertices.", "433" ], [ "What is the name of this logistic variant of TSP?\nI have a logistic problem that can be seen as a variant of $\\text{TSP}$. It is so natural, I'm sure it has been studied in Operations research or something similar. Here's one way of looking at the problem.\nI have $P$ warehouses on the Cartesian plane. There's a path from a warehouse to every other warehouse and the distance metric used is the Euclidean distance. In addition, there are $n$ different items. Each item $1 \\leq i \\leq n$ can be present in any number of warehouses. We have a collector and we are given a starting point $s$ for it, say the origin $(0,0)$. The collector is given an order, so a list of items. Here, we can assume that the list only contains distinct items and only one of each. We must determine the shortest tour starting at $s$ visiting some number of warehouses so that the we pick up every item on the order.\nHere's a visualization of a randomly generated instance with $P = 35$. Warehouses are represented with circles.", "180" ], [ "Red ones contain item $1$, blue ones item $2$ and green ones item $3$. Given some starting point $s$ and the order ($1,2,3$), we must pick one red, one blue and one green warehouse so the order can be completed. By accident, there are no multi-colored warehouses in this example so they all contain exactly one item. This particular instance is a case of set-TSP.\nI can show that the problem is indeed $\\mathcal{NP}$-hard. Consider an instance where each item $i$ is located in a different warehouse $P_i$. The order is such that it contains every item. Now we must visit every warehouse $P_i$ and find the shortest tour doing so. This is equivalent of solving an instance of $\\text{TSP}$.\nBeing so obviously useful at least in the context of logistic, routing and planning, I'm sure this has been studied before. I have two questions:\n1. What is the name of the problem?\n2. How well can one hope to approximate the problem (assuming $\\mathcal{P} \\neq \\mathcal{NP}$)?\nI'm quite happy with the name and/or reference(s) to the problem. Maybe the answer to the second point follows easily or I can find out that myself.", "835" ], [ "If you have an algorithm running in time $f(n)$ that solves an $\\mathsf{NP\\text{-}complete}$ problem, you can use it to solve any $\\mathsf{NP}$ problem and the running time will be $g(n)=f(n^k) + p(n)$ ($k$ is a constant which depends on the reduction between the problems, $p(n)$ is a polynomial essentially giving the running time of the reduction function).\nI am not sure what you mean exactly by exponential time, but the result above is general and will work for any $f$, e.g.:\n1. If $f$ is a polynomial, then $g(n)$ is also a polynomial,\n2. If $f(n) = 2^{\\epsilon n}$, then $g(n) = 2^{\\epsilon n^k}+p(n)$,\n3. If $f(n)= 2^{n^\\epsilon}$ then $g(n) = 2^{n^{k\\epsilon}}+p(n)$.\nI am not sure what you exactly mean by transforming an algorithm, but\nwhat is essentially needed is that we are given a reduction algorithm from $Q'$ to $Q$. If we have that, it is easy to compose it with any algorithm $A$ for $Q$ to obtain an algorithm for $Q'$. If this is given as an input to the transformation, it can transform an algorithm $A$ for $Q$ to an algorithm for $Q'$ very easily (in polynomial time): it will output the code resulting from composing the code for the reduction from $Q'$ to $Q$ with the code for the algorithm $A$. In fact, this can be done in linear time.\nIf the reduction is not given as an input then the algorithm has to find it.", "743" ], [ "It can be done under some conditions but essentially we have to provide the transformation with enough information so that the transformation can find the needed reduction algorithm. If we don't provide enough information to find the reduction then this cannot be done. At least not uniformly in $A$. Here is an argument:\nThe transformation has to return an algorithm that is essentially the composition of a reduction function from $Q'$ to $Q$ with $A$. However the transformation cannot check what a given algorithm $A$ for $Q$ is really doing (because of <PERSON>'s theorem). So we can give an identity algorithm as $A$ and the transformation will not notice this and will return an algorithm which is essentially the composition of a reduction from $Q'$ to $Q$ with the identity function. But that is equal to the reduction function from $Q'$ to $Q$. So the output will be a reduction algorithm from $Q'$ to $Q$.", "603" ], [ "tl;dr I wrote some solution but realized it is not perfect. Since I didn't want all this typing to go waste I figured I might post my observations here rather than splitting them in the comments.\nI think that the problem can be solved for any arbitrary $s,t$ and $x$ in $\\mathcal{O}(V+ E)$. In fact we can extend the problem to answer $Q$ queries of the form $(s,t,x)$ with $\\mathcal{O}(V+E)$ pre processing and $\\mathcal{O}(1)$ per query. I am having trouble completing step 6, but I am pretty sure that it can be done. Someone in the comments may know.\n1. Find all strongly connected components (scc) of the graph using Kosarjau's or <PERSON> algorithm. This step will take $\\mathcal{O}(V+E)$ time.\n2. Using a hash table, you can check if two nodes belong to the same stongly connected component in $\\mathcal{O}(1)$ time.\n3. If two nodes $u$ and $v$ belong to the same strongly connected component, then there exists paths both from $u$ to $v$ and $v$ to $u$.\n4.", "835" ], [ "Now what remains to be checked is if two nodes $u$ and $v$ do not belong to the same strongly connected component, does there still exist a path from $u$ to $v$.\n5. We will modify the given graph $G$ to a new graph $G'$ which we shall call the strongly connected component graph or scc graph for short. In the scc graph, each node corresponds to one strongly connected component in the original graph i.e. we compress all nodes belonging to the same scc to a single node. It can be proven that the scc graph is a Directed Acyclic Graph (DAG for short).\n6. Now our task reduces to check if there exists a directed path between $u$ and $v$ in the DAG. Topological sort can give an ordering such that for any path from $u$ to $v$, $u$ will appear before $v$ in the ordering. Thus we can check if index of $u$ in the topologically sorted sequence of vertices is less than that of $v$ in $\\mathcal{O}(1)$ but this method also gives false positives and this is where I am stuck.\n7. I feel that we can augment step 6 with some additional data to complete the algo. One method I was thinking of was to maintain some constant $K$ number of random topological sorts and if the inequality $index(u) < index(v)$ is true for all $K$ sequences then we can conclude with high probability that there is a path from $u$ to $v$.", "433" ] ]

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[ [ "Layered Plywood Monitor Stand\nIntroduction: Layered Plywood Monitor Stand\nAs I spent more time working from home, I started to realize I really needed a monitor stand. However, finding one that fit my desk, was the right height, and looked the way I wanted proved to be harder than I thought. So I decided to make my own!\nI wanted to make the stand with as few materials as possible. Ideally, I would have made it with just plywood; no glue, no nails, and no varnish or stain. However, I wasn't a huge fan of my early designs, since they all used plywood fasteners that weren't flush with the outer faces. Since plywood is made with glue anyway, I decided to bend my rule a little and use some wood glue to hold everything together.\nI've been using the stand for the past month, and I couldn't be happier with it! I designed it to help with my cable management as well; the cutaways on the sides are meant to hold my various cords in place.\nSupplies\nMaterials\n- 1/4\" plywood\n- Wood glue\n- Felt pads (optional)\nTools\n- Rotary tool with wood cutting wheel or hand saw\n- Sandpaper\n- Two 3\" (or greater) C-clamps\n- Two to three 9\" (or greater) bar clamps (or one bar clamp and a workbench with a large built-in vise)\n- Laser cutter, CNC/manual milling machine, or a jigsaw/bandsaw/hand saw and lots of patience!\nStep 1: Set Dimensions\nThis really depends on what you're looking for; you might want something taller or wider than I did. However, there are three key dimensions everyone will need to consider:\nMonitor base diameter (or depth and width): decides the minimum depth and width of the top of your stand\nStand height: personal preference; it's recommended that the top of your monitor be directly at, or slightly below, eye level\nStand base width: depends on the space on your desk and the design you want; more on that later!\nFor me, the key dimensions were:\nMonitor base diameter: 8 1/4\"\nStand height: 3 1/2\"\nStand base width: 18 1/3\"\nStep 2: Design the Stand & Prepare the Data\nI've attached a .pdf of my design; if you want to use it, feel free! Note that the drawing scale is ANSI C, and the sheet size should be 17\" x 22\". The \"D\" pieces are the support pegs, and do not need to be duplicated for cutting; you only need four total.\nHow you design the stand depends on how you plan to make it. If you'll use a scroll saw, band saw, or hand tools, you can either use CAD or sketch the design on a piece of paper.", "415" ], [ "However, if you plan on using a CNC milling machine or laser cutter, you'll need to design in CAD. Since there are so many programs available, I'll just provide a rough guideline for designing the stand and preparing the data for laser cutting.\nDesigning & Preparing:\n- Figure out how many layers of plywood you'll need for the stand. You can do this by dividing the monitor base diameter from the previous step by the thickness of the plywood you're using. For example, I was using 1/4\" plywood, and my monitor base diameter was 8 1/4\", so I needed 8.25 / 0.25 = 33 layers.\n- Decide how you want the stand to look; do you want it to be a continuous shape with identical layers, or do you want to have different profiles? I wanted to use two alternating profiles; a solid one made from the \"A\" pieces and one with \"cutaways\" made from the \"B\" & \"C\" pieces.\n- If you want different profiles, you need to decide how many pieces you'll need for each profile and the thickness of each profile. This depends on how easily you can break the total number of layers you need into whole numbers. Note that you need an odd total number of profiles, otherwise the two outer-most faces won't be the same.\n- I had 33 total layers. Since 33 is divisible by 11 and 3, I could either have 11 profiles that were 3 x 0.25 = 3/4\" thick, or 3 profiles that were 11 x 0.25 = 2 3/4\" thick. I chose to have 11 profiles; six made from piece \"A\" and five made from pieces \"B\" & \"C\", with two \"C\" pieces per profile.\n- Use a CAD program (Fusion 360, AutoCAD, etc.) to sketch the pieces you'll need. Export as either a .dxf or .pdf.\n- Convert the .", "215" ], [ "Tabletop Oak Art Easel\nIntroduction: Tabletop Oak Art Easel\nI hope this project can inspire you to design and build your own tabletop art easel. I decided to try my hand at painting, and wanted a good easel to work on (it turns out that I'm pretty bad at painting--even after classes--but it's the fun that counts!). I also needed this easel to collapse and be stored in a small space.\nOf course, you can buy art easels; however, many of them aren't sturdy or well-designed. If you want a solid wood easel that can collapse down, you're talking more than $150. I made this on the cheap with some leftover oak pieces and few bucks worth of hardware. I visited some art stores to study the art easels on the market, and I think mine is better. I also think that with a little patience anyone can build their own super sturdy art easel.\nSupplies\n* Wood (preferably oak, which is hard and strong)\n* Wood Glue\n* 1/8th rubber padding circles (or other material to increase the friction between base and rotating structure)\n* Short scrap strip of leather or something to be used as a handle\nTake a look at the hardware photo for images of what these refer to.\n* Female Star Knob (example here) or other hand wing nut\n* Threaded inserts (example here)\n* Brass Hex Machine Screws (example here) or other screw fastener\n* Standard Threaded Rods\n* Washers\n* Wing Screws\n* Hex Screws\nStep 1: Design Your Art Easel\nYour specific needs may vary. So first things first, take some paper and sketch out what your easel will look like. Do you need to adhere to certain dimensions or other design constraints?\nTake your time and mentally organize how all the pieces will fit together. The photos above obviously show the finished product taken apart. I hope that these photos can help you visualize how it'll all come together.", "668" ], [ "I designed my easel so that all of the structural parts can be detached and stored within the base.\nIn my design, here are the basic structural parts:\n* The base - the sturdy foundation that sits on the table\n* The rotating arm - this is the structure that rotates up from the base and physically holds the canvas\n* The detachable Ledges - there are are two ledges that attach to the arm, but can be removed and stored. The first upper ledge holds the canvas and the lower ledge holds the brushes.\n* The two vertical guide rails - these are fixed guides that are built into the rotating arm. They create a channel along which the adjustable mast rail can adjust up and down.\n* The adjustable mast rail - this extends the canvas capacity of the easel by extending upwards along the two guide rails. This also holds the top canvas gripper. Wing nuts inserted through the guide rails pinch the adjustable mast rail into place at a desired height.\n* The Top Canvas Gripper - This adjustable piece is affixed to the adjustable mast rail and locks the canvas into place on the easel.\nStep 2: Cut Your Wood\nOnce you have all of your measurements, take your time to cut all of the wood to the appropriate lengths. Because my design required precise fits, I made sure the power miter saw/table saw were square, and I also squared and planned my pieces.\nStep 3: Plan and Cut the Joinery\nMy design called for a number of lap joints as well as doweled butt joints to connect the horizontal cross beams to the main vertical arm beams. In my case, I clamped the two side vertical arms together and chiseled out cavities for the horizontal beams (clamping them together ensures that the joints are in the exact same position along both vertical arms).\nContinuously dry fit the horizontal beams into the cavities, chisel away small increments and make adjustments until everything seats perfectly.\nStep 4: Cut Out Vertical Rails and the Vertical Mast Rail\nThe two vertical guide rails are going to be rigidly affixed to a top horizontal beam and a lower horizontal beam. The vertical mast rail will slide up and down between the two rails to expand the capacity of the easel. The width of your vertical mast rail will dictate how far apart your two guide rails are.\nAs you can see, I designed my vertical mast rail to have a triangular concave groove along both edges. The rigid guide rails are designed to have a corresponding triangular convex edge.\nStep 5: Dry Fit the Main Structural Pieces, Glue It Up and Clamp It. Then Sand.\nArrange all the pieces and ensure they all fit together correctly. I chose to use dowels to reinforce the joinery, so that required an extra step; however, I'm not sure this was absolutely necessary, although the result was a super solid structure.", "787" ], [ "3D Printer Enclosure and Standing Desk\nIntroduction: 3D Printer Enclosure and Standing Desk\nThis classy, cat-proof 3D printer enclosure doubles as a standing desk! It has plenty of room for my Prusa i3 MK3S (with the spool holder), as well as a generous storage compartment. Featuring a 25\"x24\" desktop, integrated LED lighting, full extension drawer slides and plenty of room to add a dehumidifier or other accessories!\nThe print area is fully enclosed with clear acrylic, providing a stable, draft-free print environment that reduces noise output. This project is easy to build with 2x4s and plywood, and simple details such as a dyed frame make it look good enough to put in your apartment or living room.\nCheck out the full build video here!\nI designed this project in Fusion 360, and you can view/download the 3D model at the following link:\nhttps://a360.co/39zFGzk\nHowever, all of the relevant dimensions are included in this Instructable.\nLet's get started!\nSupplies\nHere's what you will need (in order of steps):\nFour (4) x 8-foot 2x4s\nThree (3) x 8-foot 1x1s or other small dimensional lumber for making stops\nOne (1) x 2'x4' sheet of 3/4\" plywood (This will form the desktop and printer shelf. If you're going to leave these edges exposed, I would recommend splurging on some baltic birch or other premium plywood!)\nOne (1) x 2'x4' sheet of 1/2\" plywood (This will form the top shelf.", "858" ], [ "Same note as above)\nOne (1) x 2'x4' sheet of 1/4\" plywood (This will form the back, and the edges will be hidden. I used luan plywood for this.)\nCircular saw\nSpeed square - https://amzn.to/35OK9xc\nMasking tape (to reduce tear out on plywood)\nJigsaw or keyhole saw, for cutting a hole to run the power cord - https://amzn.to/2NfkGX9\nHandheld drill/driver - https://amzn.to/38OWVNZ\nPocket hole jig - https://amzn.to/2OhBES0\nIndia Ink - https://amzn.to/32enRE5\nRags/old brush for applying India Ink\n120-grit sandpaper\n220-grit sandpaper\nFinish (I used Varathane Diamond Wood Finish - Crystal Clear Semigloss)\nFoam brush\n2-1/2\" pan-head screws or Kreg screws - https://amzn.to/3smoOEZ\n1-1/4\" pan-head screws or Kreg screws - https://amzn.to/2LxI55D\nClamps\nTwo (2) pairs of 20-inch full extension drawer slides - https://amzn.to/2Ojv1OQ\nDouble sided tape (for installing drawer slides and attaching power strip)\nLevel\nTwo (2) x 12-1/4\" x 10\" pieces of 2mm clear acrylic (upper doors)\nTwo (2) x 30-1/2\" x 10\" pieces of 2mm clear acrylic (lower doors)\nTwo (2) x 40-3/8\" x 16-5/8\" pieces of 2mm clear acrylic (sides)\n** I would recommend building the enclosure and measuring its actual dimensions BEFORE ordering the acrylic. Small variations in construction and materials may cause the above acrylic dimensions to not fit your enclosure. These were just the dimensions that worked for my enclosure. **\nShort black framing screws (I used 7/16\" #6 screws) for attaching acrylic sides and hinges - https://amzn.to/3bPaVcy\n1-1/2\" drywall screws, other black screws or woodscrews\nCountersink drill bits - https://amzn.to/2LFKyek\nOne (1) six-foot length of black continuous hinge or 8-10 individual hinges\nTin snips (for cutting continuous hinge) - https://amzn.to/38X2w53\nSmall nuts and bolts for attaching hinges to acrylic doors\nEight (8) x 8x3mm magnets (for closures) - https://amzn.to/3bGZRhh\n3/4\" or shorter woodscrews for magnetic closure\n5-minute epoxy - https://amzn.to/38TJLiG\nRemote-controlled LED strip lights - https://amzn.", "401" ], [ "In Case of Pandemic - Mask Storage Case\nIntroduction: In Case of Pandemic - Mask Storage Case\nInstructions for use:\n1. No, it's not glass\n2. No, you don't need to break it\n3. I hope the rest is self explanatory\nBy now, many of us have a decent supply of masks at home, and I have definitely found the need to have a place to store them, so why not have some fun with it? Now, you may be thinking, \"We may not even need masks in a few months\", and best case scenario you may be right. But that's the beauty of it! Now you have a place to keep them just in case (god forbid) we need them again in our lifetime.\nThis Instructable will detail the steps for making this project, including the necessary CAD and laser cutting files.\nIf you enjoy this Instructable, please consider voting for it in the Plywood Contest!\nSupplies\nConsumables:\n* Plywood (I used 0.2\" thick)\n* Wood Stain (I did one with \"true black\", and one with \"dark walnut\")\n* Wood Finish (I used a polycrylic finish)\n* Brushes for staining\n* Glue (wood glue may be good enough depending on the wood you choose, but I used an expanding glue to help ensure adhesion/contact)\n* Acrylic sheets (roughly ~12\" by 12\" sheets)\n* White Spray Paint\n* Hooks to hang the masks\n* Canvas Offset Clips (or similar) to hold the acrylic sheet in place\n* Chicago Screws. I originally planned on using M4x6mm, but ended up going up to M5x6mm. I mention this because the hardware that I use below had holes that don't fit the M5, so I had to manually widen the holes in the hardware\n* Butt Hinges (if you get hinges with any different dimensions from mine, you will likely have to adjust the design in some way to fit the different size or hole locations)\n* 6mm Round Neodymium Magnets (optional, but helps hold the case closed)\n* 1/8\" offset bracket to hold the acrylic sheet (optional if you get a taller acrylic sheet)\nTools:\n* Laser Cutter\n* Clamps (corner clamps can really help)\n* Drill (if you need to oversize the holes in the hardware you get like I did)\n* Screw Driver\nStep 1: Designing the Case (CAD and Laser Cutting Files)\nFor this project, I used the now infamous Fusion 360.", "74" ], [ "I went through two iterations, which you don't really need to know about, except that the first didn't work (hence the 2nd!). This project included a couple firsts for me; it was my first time designing a project with a hinge, and my first time trying out Chicago screws (which I really like and will definitely be using again).\nSince I already made the design, you don't (necessarily) have to! But if you use different thickness material (not 0.2\") or different sized hardware (in particular the hinge), you will need to update the design so that what you laser cut will have the correct joints, gaps, and hole locations for your case. Otherwise you will have a very bad day when you go to assemble it.\nThe CAD files are attached here for posterity. Here's an online model of the project, but I don't believe it is downloadable without the paid service.\nWith the case designed, I used Inkscape to make the acrylic cover design, and prep the files for laser cutting. I based my virus picture on the cover from this picture by Starline.\nAs an explanation of what each of the attached files are:\n* The .step and .f3d files are the original 3D CAD Model of the shelf I created\n* The two .svg files are the exported surfaces of the CAD model, and the cover design design that I made\n* The PNG (last image in this step, open to get full resolution), is the raster to laser cut the cover design\n* And the DXF is an alternative vector graphics format of the exported surface\nStep 2: Laser Cutting\nThe laser cutting process is pretty straightforward; the pictures speak for themselves! Files needed for laser cutting are in the previous step.\nStep 3: Applying Stain\nThe staining process is also pretty simple. I tried out two different colors, one with \"true black\", and one with \"dark walnut\". The one shown is the dark walnut.\nStep 4: Gluing\nNow things start getting a little tricky. I originally just used wood glue to put the frame together, however I found that in this case, it wasn't strong enough to hold the joints together (possibly because I stained first).", "215" ], [ "Cast Cement Incense Burner + Tea Light Holder\nIntroduction: Cast Cement Incense Burner + Tea Light Holder\nHi Instructables! It's been a while since I last published anything, and I'm stoked to finally have something to share again. This project grew out of a simple paperweight I designed as a practice project to help me get more comfortable with casting. The more time I spent with the paperweight, the more I liked the shape, so I started trying to come up with other things I could make that borrowed from its design. I settled on an incense burner / tea light holder combo, and I love the contrast between the heavy, industrial look of the finished product and the softness of fire and colourful incense.\nI decided to use quick-setting cement instead of concrete for two reasons: 1) I'm lazy, and didn't want to wait for the concrete to cure (days for concrete vs. hours for the cement); and 2) Since the burner is so small, I didn't want to have to deal with large pieces of aggregate.\nIt's designed for shorter, Japanese-style incense such as this, but it will work with most types of incense. The benefit of using the incense highlighted here is that the ash falls into the burner, making for easy clean-up. If you plan on using it for longer or thinner incense, it's a good idea to put a plate underneath to catch any ash that may fall outside the burner.\nStep 1: What You Need\nSupplies:\n-Quick-setting cement (I used Quikrete anchoring cement)\n-Vaseline, or similar (for lining the mould)\n-Water\n-40 gauge (~0.12mm) copper or brass foil\n-1mm thick cork sheet with adhesive backing\n- 1/8\" brass rod (you can use another metal, but brass rods are easy to bend)\n-3 elastic bands\nTools:\n-Small container for mixing concrete\n-Wooden sticks for mixing concrete (I used a chopstick and a skewer)\n-Trowel or small shovel\n-400 (or higher) grit wet-dry sandpaper\n-Hacksaw, or similar metal cutting tool\n-Scissors\n-3D printer or printing service\n-CAD software (I used Fusion 360)\nStep 2: Designing the Mould\nYou have two options for the mould: 1) download and print the .STL files I've attached below; or 2) make your own!\nIf you choose the first option, I recommend printing the files with a 0.2mm layer thickness and 20% infill.\nIf you choose to go with the second option, I highly recommend checking out this excellent Instructable by Further Fabrication.", "787" ], [ "It really helped me develop my mould. I won't try to re-state Further Fabrication's instructions here, but I will offer a few general tips/some useful information I stumbled across during the design process:\n1) If you plan on making a similar shape to mine, I recommend using a three-part mould. When I tried to make a two-part mould that combined the \"Lower Walls\" and \"Base\" files, it was hard to remove the casting without cracking it.\n2) Try to avoid having any walls thinner than 8mm. I found that thinner walls were prone to caving in and/or cracking when de-moulding.\n3) Shapes with more aggressive draft angles and continuous profiles (shapes where you can freely \"twist\" the mould) are a lot easier to work with.\nStep 3: Preparing the Mould\n-Cut a ~5cm length off the brass rod, and bend the top 1-2cm at a slight angle. The rod will form the hole that holds the incense. The bend at the top makes the de-moulding process a lot easier.\n-Put one of the elastics around the smaller diameter opening of the \"Lower Walls\" print, like in Image 2. This helps center the \"Lower Walls\" in the \"Base\", and doubles as a gasket to prevent any cement from leaking out during casting.\n-Liberally coat the 3D printed mould parts and the longer straight section of the brass rod with Vaseline. Try to apply as smooth of a coat as possible.\n-Assemble the mould (from top-to-bottom: brass rod, \"Upper Walls\" print, \"Lower Walls\" print, \"Base\" print) and hold it together with the two remaining elastic bands, as shown in Image 4.\nStep 4: Casting\n-Mix cement and water until it has the consistency of pancake batter (thick, but still flowable).\n-Pour the mixture into the mould, stopping just (~1mm) below the top.", "220" ], [ "Making Halloween Luminary Boxes\nIntroduction: Making Halloween Luminary Boxes\nIn this Instructable, I'll show you how I made a Halloween-themed luminary box on the laser cutter at my local maker space. While I love using the laser every chance I get, this same principal could be done with any pre-made wooden box or a hand-cut or scroll-saw cut design, so don't let your lack of access to a laser stop you from making one of these!\nIf you'd rather watch a build video before jumping into the Instructable, be sure to watch the full video above. If you like it, please consider subscribing to my YouTube channel so I know this is the type of project people enjoy learning how to make themselves so that I can make more videos like it in the future! I've included links below to the tools and materials I used, but feel free to adapt what you learn here to build your own luminary!\nSupplies\n* 1/4 inch Plywood\n* Rustic Orange Spray Paint\n* Golden Sunset Yellow Spray Paint\n* Tightbond II Wood Glue\n* Wood Clamps\nStep 1: Gather Materials and Supplies\nIn the previous step, I described the supplies you'll need to build and set up your luminaries, so now let’s talk about what options you have for constructing your box and cutting out the jack-o’lantern design if you don't have access to a laser cutter. As I indicated above, I used the laser cutter at my local maker space to cut the plywood, using a box-generator tool online to generate the cut file of the box itself. If you don’t have access to a laser cutter, here are some ideas:\n1. Premade Box: Use a pre-made wooden box of any given size. You’ll need to paint the inside carefully since it’s already constructed, but this is a very easy way to go!\n2. Traditional Woodworking Tools: Use the laser-cutter SVG file (described later on) as a template to create finger joints using traditional woodworking techniques or a table saw jig.\n3. Use Butt Joints. Similar to the previous option, this involves constructing your own box, but rather than worrying about finger joints, just glue, nail, or screw the pieces of the box together.", "644" ], [ "This box will not hold any weight, so the normal necessity for finger joints is not there.\nDecide which option is right for you, but in either case, cutting the face onto your box will most successfully be done with either a scroll saw or a coping saw. If you’re very patient, a jigsaw can also be used, but it’s harder to make tight turns with a jigsaw.\nStep 2: Create Your Box Template\nThe inspiration for this project came from a decoration I recall seeing in the Halloween aisle when I was a kid. They were effectively paper lunch bags, but orange, with pumpkin faces cut into the bag or printed on the bag. They came with tea light candles and you were supposed to put them on your walkway with sand or rocks inside them to help weigh them down. I always liked the idea of the sidewalk up to the house lined with these, but the practical execution always had me wary of a fire, since a simple gust of wind could make them collapse in on themselves.\nTo start our more-sturdy version, we'll use the dimensions of a real-world paper lunch sack, as the idea is for these to be a nod to the original paper bags. Those measurements are approximately 5.75\" wide x 9.5\" tall by 3.5\" deep. With those measurements at the ready, we can take to this super handy laser-cut box generator tool I stumbled upon. It’s awesome – all you do is enter your box dimensions, tell it how thick the material is that you’ll be cutting it out of, tweak a few other settings, and boom, it generates a perfect vector cut file with all the finger joints dialed in exactly.\nYou can also enter a value for kerf compensation, which you may need to play with if you determine your joints are too tight or too loose. This is entirely dependent on the laser you’re using and it’s beam size, but in general, a value of 0.002 or so has worked for me. Just experiment a bit; it’s the best way to learn!\nStep 3: Modify SVG With Decorative Features\nExporting our generated box gives us an SVG file, which is a super common software-agnostic vector format that can be opened by most vector tools such as Inkscape or the like. Other laser software may want the DXF file, which is also an option in the box generator, but Adobe Illustrator is my weapon of choice.", "438" ], [ "Egyptian Tomb Inspired Book Nook\nIntroduction: Egyptian Tomb Inspired Book Nook\nWelcome to my first Instructable! During 2020, I was taken with beautiful images of \"book nook\" dioramas going around the Internet. I don't have any real experience with miniatures but I decided to give it a try anyway as a quarantine craft. This is the result! I certainly made some mistakes along the way, but overall I'm pleased with how it turned out. This may give you some ideas to try designing a diorama of your own.\nI went with an ancient Egyptian theme mostly because it's cool, but also because I thought I could get away with making things out of foam, which sounded the simplest and cheapest to me.\nSupplies\nMaterials I used:\nA hinged cardboard box\nA craft knife\nA small screwdriver (normally used for electronics)\nFoam (several thin sheets of fun foam and one sheet of 6mm thick foam)\nModge Podge glue (lots of it)\nAcrylic paints\nPaint brushes (mostly the cheap kind that could handle working with glue)\nShrink film - the printer friendly kind\nPrinter paper\nPaperclips\nMetal thumb tacks\nCraft sand\nImage editing software (I used Gimp)\nPopsicle sticks\nA hammer\nA nail file\nStep 1: Preparing the Box\nI found a cardboard box with a hinged lid at the craft store: I wanted to use that as the base because it would be easy to open the box up and access the inside. I used a craft knife to cut the front of the box open. Then I used a little electrical tape to smooth out the cut edges. I picked electrical tape because of the color, but if I did this again I might use masking tape: it has a better texture for painting and gluing over.\nStep 2: The Doorway\nI spent some time looking at images of Egyptian tombs online and found some pictures of doorways carved and painted with hieroglyphs that I wanted to imitate.\nI started by cutting a rectangle of my thicker foam sheet, just slightly smaller than the inside of the box, then cut out the opening. I also added a couple of stacked rectangles at the top to give it more dimension.\nAfter a little experimentation on a scrap foam sheet, I used the tip of a small screwdriver to carve the symbols I wanted into the foam. I don't actually read hieroglyphs; I just copied pictures I saw online. It would be rad if I accidentally cursed myself but most likely it's just gibberish.\nThe most important detail I included was a carving of Ma'at, the goddess of balance. I also used a nail file to weather down some of the edges to try to make it look older.\nFinally I coated the entire thing with a layer of modge podge glue.", "644" ], [ "Foam doesn't hold paint well because it's such a porous material, so the glue creates a seal around the foam that paint can hold on to. All of the foam in this project got the same treatment.\nStep 3: Shrink Film Tomb Painting\nMy parents have a painted sheet of papyrus that my mother got on a trip to Egypt as a teenager; I thought it would be neat to recreate that image as a tomb painting. Rather than try to paint it by hand, I loaded a photo of the papyrus onto my computer and then recreated it in an image editor. I then printed my new version onto a sheet of shrink film.\nI made a mistake here: I forgot that the colors in shrink film become much more saturated when the film is shrunk in the oven. The result ended up a lot darker than I wanted. If I did it again, I would use colors much lighter than what I wanted in the full size print.\nOn the plus side, the shrunk down film has a slightly rough texture that works great for fake stone. It also can be painted, which helped with blending the \"painting\" in with the other surfaces later on.\nStep 4: Foam Stone\nTo get a rough stone-like texture, I grabbed a few sheets of foam and a hammer, then took them outside to the sidewalk. I whacked the back of the foam with the hammer so that the front side would pick up texture from the asphalt. I ended up using two different hammers; a regular one and a rubber mallet, which has slightly different results on the texture.\nI cut one sheet into large bricks that I arranged on one side, leaving space for my tomb painting. I deliberately had some space in between the bricks and uneven edges to try to make it look more realistic. I have to admit, this process was so incredibly fussy that I got sick of it. For the other sides I just carved grooves into a full sheet of foam.", "74" ], [ "Make a Marble Machines Board\nIntroduction: Make a Marble Machines Board\nA Marble Machine is a creative ball-run contraption, made from familiar materials, designed to send a rolling marble through tubes and funnels, across tracks and bumpers, and into a catch at the end.\nIn this activity guide, you'll learn how to build a pegboard panel that will allow you to experiment with a variety of household materials to build elaborate marble runs. Once you have the basic board built, you will get hours of play out of it, and you will be able to try more ambitious ideas.\nStep 1: Materials\nThis project requires some materials, easily obtainable from your local hardware store. You will need:\n* 2 sheets of pegboard - 2 feet x 4 feet\n* 2 lengths of wood - 1 in x 2 in x 4 feet (vertical spacers)\n* 3 lengths of wood - 1 in x 2 in x 22.5 in (horizontal spacers)\n* wood glue (optional but recommended)\n* wood screws\n* power drill\n* drill bit and driver bit\n* countersink bit (optional)\n* 1/4 in dowels (you will use these pegs for alignment)\n* a friend (recommended)\nStep 2: Align Pegboard and Vertical Spacers\nSet one of the pegboard panels on top of the two long vertical spacers. Do this with both spacers at once to keep the panel level. Make sure edges and sides of the spacers are flush with the panel. Just running your fingers along the edge will do the trick.\nTip: Long pieces of wood are often slighted curved. This is not a problem, as they can be straightened when fastening them to the pegboard, but make sure the are flush on one end to start, and straighten them as you work your way along.\nStep 3: Pre-drill Pegboard and Vertical Spacer\n1. Once your spacers are aligned and flush, you'll pre-drill all your screw holes to avoid splitting the wood with screws. Start at one end, and drill a small hole where the first screw will go.\nTip: If you want your board to look extra slick and have all the screws be flush, you can use a countersink bit to make room for the screw heads. Now is the time to do so.\n2. Put the first screw in to tack one end in place while you pre-drill the rest. If you plan on using glue, don't put the rest of the screws in yet. If you're skipping the glue, feel free to add screws as you go along.\n3. Pre-drill every 6 inches or so down the length of the board. If you notice the spacer is warped or bent, pull or push it flush with the edge of the board as you go. This will help keep things aligned when you permanently attach the board to the spacers.\nStep 4: Attach Spacers\n1. If you've decide to use wood glue, lift the board off the spacers, and apply glue all the way down the one you pre-drilled.", "431" ], [ "Use a wavy pattern for better coverage and style. If you've decided not to use glue, you can leave the board in place.\n2. Put the board on top of the spacers again, and drive screws in the holes you pre-drilled. The screws should find the pre-drilled holes and line everything up nicely!\nIt's normal for some glue to squeeze out; use a damp cloth to wipe it up (your finger will also work in a pinch).\n3. Repeat the whole process with the other vertical spacer.\nStep 5: Place the Horizontal Spacers\n1. Next, you will add horizontal spacers to your board. These provide structural integrity and prevent the pegboard panels from bowing inward.\n2. Flip your board and put a horizontal spacer on each end and one in the middle. Take care to place the middle spacer so it doesn't block any of the holes.\n3. If the fit is tight, the spacers will stay in place. If not, use masking tape to keep them in place.\n4. Flip the board over again and pre-drill, countersink (optional), and screw the horizontal spacers in place.\nStep 6: Add the Second Pegboard Panel\n1. Flip your board over again.\n2. Place the second pegboard panel on top.\n3. Use at least three dowels to align the holes in the top panel with the one on the bottom. It is important to make sure the dowels will stick straight out when you're building your marble run.\n4. Stick dowels through both sets of holes, and visually check that they are vertical.", "320" ] ]

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[ [ "Brunei and the music of <PERSON> · Global Voices\nToday's advent of information technology has provided citizens with more opportunities to access and embrace various types of music around the world. <PERSON>, a Swedish national of Lebanese descent, visited Brunei early this month as part of a world tour to introduce his music to his fans. According to Wikipedia,\n“His first album ‘Thank You Allah’ of 13 tracks and two bonus songs was released on 1 November 2009. His music videos on youtube has collectively gained more than 4 million of views.”\nThe video shows <PERSON> singing one of his popular songs, ‘Barakallah Lakuma’, which was welcomed by his Brunei fans during a meet and greet session organised by Athirah Management.\n<PERSON>, who is popular with Islamic inspirational songs, made several radio interviews in Brunei. According to Pelangi FM DJ and blogger <PERSON>, <PERSON> confirmed that he has 107,000 fans from Brunei alone on his Facebook page, out of more than 700,000 fans globally.\n<PERSON> blogged about the radio interview:\n“Fans of <PERSON>, an influential figure from Lebanon, stormed in at Radio Televisyen Brunei recently to capture the moments with the global sensation, according to a deejay working at RTB, DJ <PERSON>. <PERSON> inspirational music video on YouTube, ‘Insha-allah’ has gained a remarkable one million views. During a short interview over Facebook chat, <PERSON> also mentioned that <PERSON> is a ‘very inspirational figure to everyone…especially to the youth’. He added, “Other international artists had to bow down and give way to him especially our local charts at Pelangi FM.’ <PERSON> interview on Pelangi FM will surely leave a legacy in Brunei, and as we speak the interview is now history.”\n<PERSON> saw <PERSON> making a huge impact in Brunei, especially among the youth\n“With just a span of two weeks, the initial hype was more than enough to spread the awareness that a music icon <PERSON> will be in Brunei Darussalam for a meet-the-fan session. My Twitter and Facebook responses have been phenomenal after I announced that he will be coming to Brunei officially.”\n<PERSON> also had the opportunity to interview the celebrity about his impressions on Brunei and his many fans. Twitterians fielded these questions\n<PERSON>: I read in one of your interviews that you were lost in “music” at one stage. Can you explain more?\n<PERSON>: I felt something was missing. I was thinking a lot. I went back to Sweden and my friends brought me to the mosque in Stockholm.", "23" ], [ "Then my heart just opened for the brothers and I'm glad Allah guided me and I felt very happy. It took some time for me to adjust when I stopped my music and my work for a while. Then I realised that maybe I can help and do something with my experience to convey a good message, my thoughts, my feelings through music. From there, I contacted my record company Awakening Records and the rest was history.\n<PERSON>: Do you have problems entering western countries such as the U.S? (Question by @zul277)\n<PERSON>: <PERSON>, so far there's no problem. If they actually listen to my music, we are trying to show a good picture about Islam. My music has a lot of happiness, about love, humanity etc. I have been to the United States a few times and I will be having a few tours in the States this year. So far so good.\n<PERSON>: What inspires you to be in the music scene? (Question by s_a_m1995)\n<PERSON>: I wanted to share what I've heard and experienced and I wanted to thank Allah and hence the album is called Thank You Allah. There's always a lot of inspiration from doing a good thing. I want to convey a message and inspire people.\n<PERSON>: When is the next album? What can the fans expect?\n<PERSON>: The second album will be slightly different but it will have more messages on Islamic issues, motherhood, friendship etc. It's like a package. The next album will be released some time next year and insyaAllah, there will be different languages like the current ones in iTunes and this is because we have a big community from different races. This shows that Islam is big, not only Arabs.\nRandomly techno and Kinsella blogged about how the songs of <PERSON> are touching the lives of many people. UBDStudentaffairs also blogged about <PERSON> visit to the Uni's Radio Station.", "820" ], [ "Brunei: Sultan makes surprise school visit · Global Voices\nHis Majesty Sultan <PERSON>, Sultan and <PERSON> of Brunei Darussalam paid a surprise visit to one of Brunei high schools in the capital, a day before His Majesty's 64th Birthday. The event at the Sixth Form Center at Katok (PTEK) was without pomp and ceremony. This is not the first time His Majesty has made a surprise school visit since it is part of the “working monarch's” agenda to get to know the students’ aspirations and their involvement in the school. His Majesty also visited the PTE Meragang school last May, as blogged by <PERSON>.\nAccording to a source, His Majesty was willing to come down to Pusat Tingkatan Enam Meragang spontaneously without any preparations so that he could speak to the students on a human level and show them his appreciation of their hard work and talent.\nThe Brunei Times carried a story of His Majesty's visit to PTEK which inspired many students.", "497" ], [ "Brunei tweets were also buzzing on the surprise visit.\nA student/blogger that was lucky enough to have the opportunity to greet and meet His Majesty was Hanee504\nDespite having only a day in between entertaining the Prime Minister of Malaysia and taking part in the celebration of His Majesty's own birthday, His Majesty touched down to PTE Katok yesterday and shook a wave of surprise to all of us.We've been expecting his visit since last week but of all the days, we totally didn't expect it would be the day before his birthday. It was indeed a huge gratitude to all of us. I had few conversations with him, got his signature and it was such a great honor!\nRandomly notes that PTEK students appreciate the unexpected visit of His Majesty. <PERSON>, another student from a different district also learned about the royal visit and blogged about it .\nBrunei Lifestyle echoes the sentiments of most Brunei citizens who feel lucky for having a monarch who is interested to know more about the aspirations and concerns of his subjects\nI sincerely think that His Majesty is a far-sighted ruler with his many visions, all for the goodness and welfare of Brunei’s future.\nPhoto courtesy of <PERSON>", "1010" ], [ "Brunei: Fund drive for flood victims · Global Voices\nThe heavy downpour last month caused heavy floods and landslides in the country, affecting homes of more than 200 families, leading to loss of milllions in property and crops in all the four districts in the country. This has made the community to come together to pledge help for the less fortunate and those affected by the natural disaster.\nA public fund to help the victims from the recent flood and landslide was set up by the Ministry of Home Affairs on 3rd February 2009. The intention is to help ease some of the difficulties faced by the victims in getting back to their normal life. As part of the efforts to collect donation to this fund, charity drives have been organized in recent weeks for the benefit of the National Fund for the Flood and Landslide Victims. This is an example of how resilient the local community in helping one another. Masyarakat Perihatin is a Malay phrase which means a caring society.\nFor example, the Orchid Garden Hotel spearheaded a cupcake charity.", "365" ], [ "The hotel succeeded in selling more than 2,000 cupcakes. It proudly displayed a 25-tiered cake made up of 250 kg of cupcakes. The whole structure measured seven feet by seven feet wide and 16 feet tall.\nPhoto by Strictly Beautiful\n<PERSON> reported about the cupcake charity event and another fund drive which sold 900 coupons of Nasi Lemak, a popular local dish:\nThe Cupcake charity at The Orchid Garden Hotel managed to sell 2,000 cupcakes. That’s amazing numbers. Another charity event was held at D’ Other Office Cafe and Bistro, where almost 900 coupons of Nasi Lemak ( local rice dish cooked in coconut milk) and Egg Tart combined was sold to the public.\nPhotos courtesy of <PERSON>\n<PERSON> reported on the charity football event which gathered at least B$100,000:\nMatch between DPMM FC and FFBD XI. The match was organized by the Football Federation of Brunei Darussalam . All proceeds (nearly B$100k from what I gather) will be donated to the Fund for Flood and Landslide Victims\nThe picture above shows His Royal Highness <PERSON> , chairman of DPMM Football club handing over the money collected from the football charity drive to the chairman of the Flood and Landslide Victims Fund.", "365" ], [ "Brunei: Global Expeditions · Global Voices\nLike other citizens around the globe, Brunei is never short of people willing to take the challenge to put the country on the world map. Two sets of expeditions are being carried out.\n1. The Polar Girls\nThe blogger with the Polar Girls. Photo courtesy of <PERSON>\n<PERSON> reported on the fund raising walkathon for the two ladies known as the Polar Girls, to raise funds for their trip to Norway for training, where only one of them will be selected to join participants from seven other countries for the Commonwealth Women’s Antarctic Expedition. The women from Brunei, Cyprus, Ghana and Jamaica will be the first person from their nation to ski to the South Pole. They will brave blizzards, crevasses and temperatures below -30C as they ski over 800 kilometres across Antarctica to the Geographic South Pole. The formal launch of the expedition will take place on 10th March 2009.\n<PERSON> is currently taking time off from her studies in Bedford High School for the event.", "849" ], [ "The student who aims to be the “Asian lady version of <PERSON>” said that she wanted to participate in the event not only glorify Brunei, but also make history and make the most of the opportunity to participate in the worldwide event.\nDk <PERSON>, 25, is a civil servant at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Previously a secondary school mathematics teacher for three years, <PERSON> hopes that her involvement in the expedition would be able to raise Brunei’s awareness on global warming and climate change.\n2. Over the Horizon\nAs part of their efforts to commemorate 25 years of Brunei Independence, a husband and wife team, <PERSON> and <PERSON> and husband will undertake an epic expedition from March 2009 to October 2010, traversing Siberia/Russia/Mongolia and Kazakhstan/Iran/Syria on their way to Europe, reaching England after 25,000 km. They will continue southbound via France and Spain to Morocco and along the African West coast until Cape Town, South Africa. From there , they will ship the expedition vehicle to Buenos Aires Argentina; drive down to Ushuaia the last town before the Antarctica and cross the Americas on the long haul until Alaska, before returning to Brunei in October 2010.\nPhotos courtesy of Over the Horizon\n<PERSON> and <PERSON> are no strangers to global expeditions as they undertook a Trans Africa Journey from South Africa to Austria in 2007. <PERSON> was the first Bruneian to travel across 13 countries or 21,000km from Europe, Middle East to North Africa in a four-wheel drive in 1999. She also led a team of five local women to conquer Africa's Mt Kilimanjaro, the first Asian team to climb the world's highest volcanic mountain in 2001, to mark ‘Visit Brunei Year.’\nGood luck and make your country proud!", "849" ], [ "Southeast Asia: Ship of dreams and friendship · Global Voices\nTake a luxury cruise liner, fill it with some 300 vibrant youths from Association of Southeast Asian Nation (ASEAN) members and Japan, stir in cultural agenda and social interactions. The result: a strong bond and lifetime friendship. This is the story of the Ship for Southeast Asian Youth Programme (SSEAYP) or ‘Program Kapal Belia Asia Tenggara’ on the M. S. Nippon Maru, funded by Japanese government in fostering friendship between youths of ASEAN and Japan.\nAccording to BPY 2008, a blog dedicated to participants of last year's 35th SSEAYP, it is an annual youth programme that seeks:\n“to promote friendship and mutual understanding among the youths of Japan and Southeast Asian countries to broaden their perspective on the world, as well as to strengthen their motivation and abilities in international cooperation by participating in discussions, introductions of each country, and various exchange activities both on board and in the countries to be visited”.\nYouths on board take part in activities such as: discussion programs, solidarity group activities, club activities, giving of introductions about home countries, delivering and listening to lectures, and socialization activities. They act as mini ambassadors of their home countries as the ship stops at every Southeast Asian nation to give courtesy calls, attend receptions and participate in institutional visits. Some would get immersed into other cultures through homestays and interaction with local youths.\nTurqoise and Roses, one of the participants from Brunei shared her experience on the whole 52 days journey on the ship and the ports of calls. According to her, the experience was rewarding:\n‘We are indeed very lucky to be selected for the program and there is great emphasis on selecting the best of the best, as the real purpose of the ship is to learn. After participating, I definitely felt that friendship was very much enhanced, and many bonds were created.\nThe impact of the whole trip has been profound according to the blogger, that has allowed her to visit her fellow participants recently in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. She was able to make many official visits and courtesy calls through the programme that led to many chances of networking.\nI would certainly never have spoken to the owner of the Vietnamese factories if I was not in the programme. Who knows…. one day I want some investors, I know just who to contact.", "696" ], [ "My friends, who were young entrepreneurs were very excited for this aspect of the programme.\nAlso the homestay was phenomenal. In Indonesia, she stayed with an inspiring politician who raised her kids alone after her husband died. In Bangkok, it was this really rich man who manages a Thai bank who really taught her a lot!\nI could never imagine that kind of friendship without the programme. It is difficult for us to part. Memang payah kan becarai!!!!!! Kalau bulih kami ani mesti tah bejumpa setiap hari. Cerita nda pandai habis eventhough we've been spending the last 6-7 months together???\nDifficult for us to part. If possible, we must meet everyday. We can never finish sharing our stories eventhough we've been spending the last 6-7 months together???\nM.S Nippon Maru sets sail for the last time before making way for a new ship next year.\nBrunei's involvement started in the early 1980s first as an observer, then as actual participant. Every country is given a quota of 28 participating youths (PYs) consisting of 14 girls and 14 boys, and 1 national leader (NL). To join the program, each country has different criteria. For Brunei, you need to be single, between 18-30 years of age, preferably active in any youth based activities/organizations, and has talent in the performing arts.\nThis resulted in setting up of an alumni network, as in the case of Brunei, ‘BERSATU’ which means in English, together. Bersatu, is one of the local NGOs or youth organisations that:\ngreatly signifies the dynamic spirit of Brunei Darussalam ex-participating youth (ex-PYs) in their true aim of fulfilling the SSEAYP Objective of strengthening existing friendships with their young contemporaries in the other nine ASEAN countries and Japan.\nI found reading her experience to be a truly\nAMAZING EXPERIENCE!!! <PERSON> is the ship of dreams!\nStories like this no doubt bond youths and most importantly create a greater understanding between different cultures, religion and societies as well as the future leaders of ASEAN and Japan together!\nPhotos in this post courtesy of BPY 2008", "1010" ], [ "Saudi Arabia: Traditional menswear revitalised – meet the iThobe · Global Voices\nThe traditional apparel for men in Saudi Arabia is a long white garment called a thobe. Recently a number of designers have been transforming the look of the thobe by adding colour – even designing an iPod-friendly iThobe. What is the verdict of bloggers on the new styles?\n<PERSON> of Crossroads Arabia comments on an article just published by The Washington Post about changes in thobe design:\nThe Washington Post reports that the dour uniformity of the white Saudi thobe is facing revolutionary pressure from a new fashion designer. What’s more, the ruling family is throwing its support behind him. I found it interesting that the designer, <PERSON>, claims that the white thobe is a relatively recent development to Saudi culture and that previously there was much more variety in men’s wear. He reportedly showed early photographs to the King to back up his claims. That got him the support he needed against religious conservatives who were convinced that he was trying to destroy the culture. Interesting read, particularly when taken along side the trend for Saudi women to break free of their plain black abayas.\n<PERSON> of Saudi Jeans welcomes the new designs:\nAs men in Saudi Arabia are usually dressed either in black – for women – or white – for men –, I usually try to appreciate the moments when I’m abroad and enjoy the colorful clothes people wear, spending much of my free time walking down the streets and observing others. That’s why I was glad to see my friend <PERSON> elegantly profile Saudi fashion designer <PERSON>, the man who put color back in menswear here. His boldness also inspired others like <PERSON> and <PERSON> to redefine the traditional Saudi garb.", "926" ], [ "However, and from what I have seen, it seems that young Hjiazi men [from the western region] are embracing the new trend more than their counterparts in Najd [central region], which is to be expected as people in the central area are more conservative. Although I only wear a thobe occasionally as I prefer my casual outfit of jeans and t-shirts, I personally like the idea of updating the thobe with new styles and colors, and I plan to get myself one of those cool Lomar thobes in the near future. The problem is that they are relatively expensive, as their creators admitted, but I think it is worth getting them for special occasions.\nLast month Jordanian blogger <PERSON> who blogs at Sha3teely visited Saudi Arabia, and posted some of his impressions:\nThe Saudi culture is one of the most amazing and interesting cultures I have ever seen. I believe it is one of the most controversial urban environments in the modern world. The war between traditions and modernity, rules and freedom, religion and globalization, wealth and achievements. The place where you can do everything but you are not allowed to do anything…\nHe comments on the new fashions:\nAnother interesting thing is the concept of the Lomar Thobe. I found it really amazing where young Saudi designers are trying to develop new modern, cool trends based on their culture and traditional customs. The concept of merging the new, cool and hip with the traditional thobe to represent the needs of the new generation of young Saudis is really genuine and extraordinary. I wish that we can see this somewhere in the upper part of the Middle East. … Take a look at the ithobe designed specially for the ipod and the other interesting collection which they have. The Lomar thobe is originally comes from Jeddah and its spreading all over the kingdom.", "926" ], [ "COVID-19 tune educates, empowers Indonesia’s remote Marapu community · Global Voices\nJungga, a traditional Sumbanese musical instrument from Indonesia. Photo by <PERSON>. Source: Coconet\nThis article by <PERSON> and <PERSON> is from EngageMedia, a non-profit media, technology and culture organization.", "803" ], [ "This story was edited and republished on Global Voices as part of a content-sharing agreement.\nAs the COVID-19 pandemic retains its tight grip on life across the planet, the need to convey public health recommendations to remote communities that speak minority languages is more pressing than ever.\nIn Indonesia, both the government and civil society has regularly used song to convey these messages, with songs about personal hygiene and health, the importance of vaccinations and the dangers of illegal drugs among those that have found their way into the diversity of languages spoken across the vast archipelago in recent times.\nLinguistically, Indonesia faces a unique challenge in terms of communicating government platforms.\nThe country hosts over 700 languages — almost half of which are now considered endangered.\nThe state language (Bahasa Indonesia) is spoken by less than two thirds of the population. ‘Message music’ moreover needs to consider diverse local cultural contexts, avoiding a blanket nationalistic approach.\nSinger releases health hit\nA bottom-up cultural strategy for remote communities can have positive effects beyond getting the message out, such as empowering local cultures to be adaptive, by finding contemporary contexts for their traditional forms of expression.\nThe Marapu community is one community that has benefited from the bottom up approach after officials threw their weight behind a young singer-songwriter called <PERSON>, who used a traditional song in the Kambera language to warn people about the dangers of COVID-19.\nShortly after <PERSON> released the song “Rimanya na wiki nda”, which translates as “Take Care of Ourselves”, local officials began inviting him to perform the song at government events and at local health facilities.\n<PERSON>'s song encouraged people in the East Sumba region, where Kambera is widely spoken, to fight COVID-19 by avoiding large crowds, staying home, and practicing personal hygiene:\nAi kupanawa yia kata ana mbawa mangganya ni na ana nduma lurinda a ai\nE ngiara ningu angu nama wandata lamambabu angu dedi dangunggu a ai\nA ai ambu eti nu katundu njarangu angu ta ana mangganya na nduma luri kinda angu kana rehi napa hangganda a ai\n<PERSON> angu\nKata maranawa lapa baha lima kinda angu kata mangganya ni na anna nduma luri a ai\nI sing this song so we will all take care, to protect our lives\nIf someone invites us to an event with a large gathering of people, my brothers and sisters\nIt is a mistake to attend, because we need to protect each other’s lives during this time\nLet’s just stay at home\nLet’s diligently wash our hands to protect our health and lives\nIn addition to writing music, <PERSON> is also a ritual speaker (wunang), a maker of traditional musical instruments, and a builder and farmer from Kamanggih in East Sumba, East Nusa Tenggara, Indonesia.\nCultural sustainability through songs\nSumba Integrated Development (SIDe) — a civic organization that is part of the Indonesia Inklusi Learning Network — has initiated a VOICE Empowerment project for the Marapu community in East Sumba.\nTheir project aims to work in collaboration with the Marapu community to organize workshops and local performances.\nThis project is fronted by <PERSON> — one of East Sumba’s most beloved female role models and talented singer-songwriters, and is distinguished by the fact that it mandates equal participation from women in a field of traditional music that is generally male-dominated.\nIn keeping with the vision of the Indonesia Inklusi network, SIDe holds to the ethical principle of “first voice” to ensure cultural bearers are empowered and actively collaborate or guide the activities of the program.\nAll of the Marapu songs recorded in Kambera are produced with Indonesian and English language translations. The translations help amplify the voices, stories and songs as well as the rich culture of the East Sumbanese Marapu community.", "803" ], [ "Brunei: Rainy days and flooding · Global Voices\nIt is the middle of the annual North-East Monsoon season and Brunei has been experiencing strong winds and rainfall. It was just ten days ago that part of the country was submerged by waters. Blogs, no doubt play an important role in informing the public on the state of the rain and the aftermath.\nIt was only ten days ago Iskandar World reported on the flood that has affected another district in the country, whereby his own home was affected by rising water levels.\nI was anticipating for a heavy down pour once I reach home…but nothing no rain and not even a drizzle..asked myself mana tia ujan nya ani!…baik tah ujan labat2..heheeh…Oh! boy..my wish sure comes true. Woke up in the middle and found my room nearly flooded (carpets & all the cushions soaked wet), hiya! apparently, the water seep in from the balcony..From midnite till 3am..I was buzy cleaning….damn!!!!!\n<PERSON> wrote that the rain is possibly, the impact from global warming.\nA perfect day that <PERSON> and <PERSON> got flooded – on the first day I return to work. Funny that we never seem to encounter these problem a decade ago. Either we are sinking or that global warming is taking its toll.\nHowever, last night's rain has caused much stand still to parts of the country. A main highway underpass tunnel in the capital and some schools were closed due to floods. It has caused diversion in traffic.\n<PERSON>, who was out on an errand trip, was caught in the rain downpour and stuck in traffic for a few hours.\nFinally after another hour or so, traffic started moving again, thanks to the traffic cops on duty.", "142" ], [ "All in all, what should have been a quick 30 minute trip became a 3 hour adventure!\nBruneiMotors, a blog that focus on car enthusiasts played good samaritans in informing the public on the state of the rain and areas that are affected by the floods.\n]The flash flood occured around 11.00pm to 3.00am on the night of 20/1/2009 and the Royal Brunei Police has block all the road that is unsafe for a motorist to pass through. They have done amazing job containing the serious area to avoid the road user from ruining their cars. Fire rescue and Ambulance are dispatch all around Brunei to monitor the safety of the public.\nBruneiLifestyle calls for a live traffic reports on radio to inform listeners on the current flood situation.\nI think its high time for the authority to set up a ‘live’ traffic report especially during the current wet spell and air them over all radio channels in every half an hour or so. Or why not make use of the Internet – after all Bruneians are IT-savvy lots. Video reports live through the handphones to your hands.\nThe blogger also believes that the current rain and flood is due to the effect of La Niña, with more thunderstorms expected until the end of this week:\nTranslated, La Niña means, “The Little Girl” , but sometimes she is called “El Viejo”, “anti-El Niño”, or even just “a cold event”. La Niña is characterized by cooling of waters in the central and eastern tropical Pacific Ocean and stronger than usual trade winds. It occurs almost as often as El Niño and also affects the normal weather patterns in some parts of the world, such as higher than normal rainfall in Southeast Asia.\nNo doubt bloggers become good samaritans in providing another medium to inform the public. Just like last year, Turqoise and Roses blogged about a flood in one of the districts in the country. Although reported in the local paper, she updated her blog live from the affected area several times in a day.\nThe recent event in Brunei do explain the regional phenemenon currently experienced, as reported by others bloggers on GVO on floods in Indonesia, Malaysia, the Philippines and Fiji,\nPhotos: courtesy of AnakBrunei, Iskandar World and BruneiMotors.", "142" ] ]

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[ [ "It's not the lack of oxygen so much as the accumulation of CO2 that we would notice first. And that would happen far sooner than we would notice the lack of oxygen, per se. (I'm addressing when the average human would experience a difference in daily life, not whether scientists would notice the atmosphere changing, something that would take very little time.)\nToday, atmospheric CO2 is around 0.04% worldwide. If plants stop synthesizing CO2 into glucose (photosynthesis) and the atmospheric CO2 level rises to just 0.5%, we would notice its effect on our daily routine almost immediately.\nFor example, at 0.5% ambient CO2, astronauts on the ISS \"experienced headaches, lethargy, mental slowness, emotional irritation, and sleep disruption\" (source). At 1% CO2, we would notice our bodies reflexively trying to breathe better. We can survive CO2 levels between 1% and 2% for only about one month.", "279" ], [ "We would survive for 1 week at 3.5%, and 8 hours at 4.5%. Medically, the resulting condition of too much carbon dioxide in the blood is called hypercapnia. I understand that this occurs because CO2 does not leave our bloodstream efficiently when the partial pressure of CO2 in our lungs is too high. (Chemists, feel free to correct me.)\nHow long would this take? A rough calculation:\nMass of atmospheric O2: 1.4 × 1018 kg O2 (Table 1)\nMass of atmospheric CO2: 1.4 × 1018 x (0.04/20.9) x (44/32) = 3.7 x 1015 kg CO2\n[The line above converts current O2 mass to current CO2 mass via two ratios: their relative % of the atmosphere, and their relative molar masses.]\nAnnual oxygen production: 3 x 1014 kg O2 (Table 2)\nOne year of respirated CO2 not converted back to O2 via photosynthesis: 3 x 1014 kg O2 x (44/32) = 4.1 x 1014 kg CO2. (This is the annual increase in CO2 if there is no natural production of oxygen.)\nCO2 is now 0.04% of the atmosphere. It needs to grow by a factor of 12.5x to reach 0.5%, by which point we would certainly feel the effects (see ISS astronauts above).\nThis requires adding 11.5 x 3.7 x 1015 = 4.25 x 1016 kg CO2 in total.\nAt an increase of 4.1 x 1014 kg/yr CO2, this would take 104 years.\nShort answer: We would all suffer \"headaches, lethargy, mental slowness, emotional irritation, and sleep disruption\" no later than 104 years from now. In reality, people already experience these things after a couple of hours in closed bedrooms, offices, and meeting rooms with poor ventilation, as ambient CO2 increases, so such problems would become commonplace far sooner than a century.\nSo without technological intervention (say, reducing CO2 levels indoors), we would suffer serious effects even with abundant oxygen all around us.\nIt would be analogous to floating in a lifeboat in the middle of the Pacific: \"Water, water everywhere, and not a drop to drink.\"", "279" ], [ "If plants were growing poorly when atmospheric CO2 was 200ppm, it was probably because Earth was in the middle of an ice age and covered with glaciers, not because plants were starved of carbon dioxide.\nAll things being equal, increasing the amount of carbon dioxide available in the atmosphere can benefit some plants, but the problem is that all things do not remain equal.\n* CO2 is only a fertilizer in environments where CO2 is the limiting input for a plant; plants in the outdoors may receive too little moisture, too much warmth, or too little sun for additional CO2 to make much difference.\n* Adding CO2 to the atmosphere also changes global and regional climates, reducing precipitation and increasing temperatures in ways that offset benefits from CO2 fertilization.\nThe authors of Plant growth enhancement by elevated CO2 eliminated by joint water and nitrogen limitation in Nature Geoscience found that\nthe presence of a CO2 fertilization effect depends on the amount of available nitrogen and water. Specifically, elevated CO2 levels led to an increase in plant biomass of more than 33% when summer rainfall, nitrogen supply, or both were at the higher levels (ambient for rainfall and elevated for soil nitrogen). But elevated CO2 concentrations did not increase plant biomass when both rainfall and nitrogen were at their lower level.", "876" ], [ "We conclude that given widespread, simultaneous limitation by water and nutrients, large stimulation of biomass by rising atmospheric CO2 concentrations may not be ubiquitous.\nScientific American tackled the question in Ask the Experts: Does Rising CO2 Benefit Plants?, concluding that \"Climate change’s negative effects on plants will likely outweigh any gains from elevated atmospheric carbon dioxide levels.\"\nResearchers cited in that article pointed out that added CO2 provides diminishing returns, with <PERSON>, principal research scientist in environmental health at Harvard University, noting that “We know unequivocally that when you grow food at elevated CO2 levels in fields, it becomes less nutritious.\"\nThe second part of your question was what would happen if CO2 levels fell to 200 ppm. This is unlikely to happen on human timescales; the current CO2 level is about 410ppm, rising 3-5 ppm per year. CO2 levels were at about 280ppm for most of human civilization, only increasing substantially when fossil fuel use became widespread in the 1800s. CO2 has a residence time in the atmosphere of several centuries.", "876" ], [ "Lung capacity of a centaur might help in doing strenuous work at altitude, but there are two biophysical limits that cannot be overcome by just increasing lung capacity.\nLungs are basically a semi-permeable membrane that allows gases to pass through. Oxygen moves from air to blood because the partial pressure of oxygen (ppO2) dissolved in the blood in the lungs is lower than ppO2 of the air in the lungs. Carbon dioxide moves the opposite way because its partial pressure (ppCO2) is higher in the blood than in the air, because the blood brings more CO2 into the lungs all the time. But there is nothing to stop the gas exchange from going the other way if the partial pressures change, or to force it to happen if there is no sufficient difference of partial pressures.\nThere's also some water vapor, which always stays at or above certain minimum partial pressure (ppH2O) by the physiology of the lungs: if the air you breathe is drier than that, some water will come out of your blood and so you'll lose moisture on every exhalation.\nAnd finally, there's the partial pressure of nitrogen (ppN2), which is important for scuba diving, but in aviation it basically just takes up space from the important gases (unless you're flying soon after scuba diving, in which case you'll need to be careful).\nAs altitude increases, the ambient air pressure decreases, and the partial pressures of the various components of the ambient air decrease in the same ratio.", "279" ], [ "But in your lungs, the carbon dioxide and water vapor exiting the blood will keep the partial pressures of these components of air at or above a certain minimum level. Basically, when you reach the point where the sum of partial pressures of ambient nitrogen + carbon dioxide in the lungs + water vapor in the lungs equals the total pressure of ambient air, the flow of oxygen from air to blood will be completely blocked. You can breathe all you want, but you aren't getting any oxygen in.\nIf there is any remaining oxygen in the blood, it will actually escape if the ppO2 in the air is lower than the ppO2 in the blood. This a big part of the reason why a sudden depressurization in a pressurized aircraft at altitude makes you pass out so quickly, and also why the safety instructions in passenger airplanes tell you to always put on your own oxygen mask first before helping others.\n(This is why mountain climbers talk about the \"death zone\" near the peak of Mount Everest and other tallest mountains: if you are near the top of Mount Everest and not using supplementary oxygen, you will be effectively suffering from a constant oxygen shortage because you're approaching this limit.)\nBy using supplementary oxygen at ambient pressure, you'll effectively replace the useless nitrogen component with more oxygen, which will allow you to go higher.\nBut once you go high enough, the sum of partial pressures of just the carbon dioxide and water vapor in the lungs (which have a minimum limit set by physiology) will equal the total pressure of the ambient air at altitude, and then you'll have the same problem again, and supplementary oxygen will no longer help. At that point, you will need either a pressurized cockpit, or a spacesuit.\n(Source: an aeromedical lesson that was part of glider pilot basic training.)", "279" ], [ "Strictly speaking, purely in terms of the question of processing the gases involved, no changes are needed to human lung physiology to process carbon dioxide. They already do process it; it's just that it's a waste product to be expelled, rather than a 'raw material' to be taken in.\nThe challenge is really to come up with a physiological modification that allows the $\\require{mhchem}\\ce{CO2}$ to be substituted metabolically for $\\ce{O2}$. At a high level, oxygen is the final electron acceptor at the end of the electron transport chain (link modified from the original):\nThe final acceptor of electrons in the electron transport chain during aerobic respiration is molecular oxygen although a variety of acceptors other than oxygen such as sulfate exist in anaerobic respiration.\nInterestingly, carbon dioxide is known to be an alternative electron acceptor in certain methanogenic bacteria (emphasis added):\nMethanogenesis in microbes is a form of anaerobic respiration. Methanogens do not use oxygen to respire; in fact, oxygen inhibits the growth of methanogens.", "279" ], [ "The terminal electron acceptor in methanogenesis is not oxygen, but carbon. The carbon can occur in a small number of organic compounds, all with low molecular weights. The two best described pathways involve the use of acetic acid and inorganic carbon dioxide as terminal electron acceptors:\n$\\ce{CO2 + 4 H2 → CH4 + 2H2O}$\nSo, somehow you have to genetically engineer your Martian explorers to \"eat\" (inhale?) hydrogen, which their bodies then \"burn\" with atmospheric $\\ce{CO2}$ to form methane and water, while releasing energy. You could catch their exhaled methane to use as, e.g., vehicle fuel, but you'd have the same no-oxygen-around conundrum as what causes breathing problems for us unmodified humans.\nFor interest, that above reaction of carbon dioxide and hydrogen is called the Sabatier reaction, which is in active use on the International Space Station as a method for processing exhaled $\\ce{CO2}$ and recovering water. The methane generated there is apparently just vented into space, but the same sort of reaction is being investigated (NASA pdf link) for actual Mars missions, as a potential source of fuel, generated from solar power and local carbon dioxide.", "279" ], [ "Decrease the amount of light arriving but increase greenhouse gases\nEarth would be about 30°C colder if it was at its blackbody temperature, i.e. received the same amount of light but didn't have a greenhouse effect. The core idea here is to decrease the amount of light arriving while increasing the amount of greenhouse gases to maintain your planet's temperature.\nOne option is to be like Venus and have double digit percentages of CO2 instead of a few hundred parts per million.\nThere are also several relatively non toxic greenhouse gases that are hugely more potent than CO2: methane (23x more potent), CFCs (1000x more potent) and SF6 (A whoppimg 20000 - 50000x!)(1).\nIf methane or CFCs or SF6 are present in significant (not enormous) quantities, you could increase the temperature of Earth hugely.\nNow, the amount of heat absorbed/emitted by a planet is proportional to temperature to the 4th power; if you can increase the greenhouse effect by 40 degrees, then you could have the amount of sunlight reduce by 50% and still have the same temperature; increase it 60 degrees and you can have it reduce by 65%. 100 degrees allows 85%.\nSee e.g.", "184" ], [ "https://www.astro.indiana.edu/ala/PlanetTemp/index.html or other planet temperature calculators out there; this forum doubtless knows many.\nMaybe mankind could deliberately set off a methane clathrate gun or produce ludicrous amounts of SF6 to compensate for some event that knocked the planet further away from the sun. <PERSON>'s orbit change suggestion would work nicely.\n(1) SF6 is incredibly inert chemically but is very heavy so it builds up in the lungs of animals if present in any significant quantity, eventually choking them. Your fauna would need some way to expel it from their lungs, maybe l by totally displacing all the gas in their lungs when they breathe out, or by means of an enzyme that binds to it and transports it to the digestive tract. I assume CFCs would have the same problem. Methane won't; it's light.\nEdit: I'm guessing that seasons and maybe polar-equator temperature differences get minimised by doing this.", "591" ], [ "If I am not mistaken, your question is what will happen if oxygen production ceased completely. As oxygen is a highly reactive gas, obviously it would be depleted eventually, as you predicted.\nThe Earth's atmosphere currently contains about 21% Oxygen. This is about $10^{18}$ or a quintillion kilograms. Since 1 atm is 101 kPa, the partial pressure of oxygen at sea level is about 21 kPa. Modern day humans are unlikely to survive when the partial pressure falls below 8 kPa\nOxygen can be consumed by many different methods. One is to bind oxygen to biomass in order to produce $\\text{CO}_2$, water and energy. With no plants to reduce the $\\text{CO}_2$ back to biomass, there is not only an oxygen problem, but a food problem. If plants continue to reduce $\\text{CO}_2$ but do not release the oxygen, they would have to keep the oxygen in oxidising agents, separate from their energy stores, which would presumably trigger, in the long term, animals that can process this.\nIn any case, with no recycling, the oxygen is consumed by biotic processes at the same rate biomass is oxidized, I'll assume that the production of 100 billion tonnes C/yr, according to wikipedia, also ceases, because I don't think plants can keep large amount of oxygen in them, so they die of the free radicals eroding their DNA.", "279" ], [ "There are only 560 billion tonnes of biomass apart from bacteria though, so they'd only sequester around 1.5 trillion tonnes (1.5 quadrillion kilograms) of the 1000 quadrillion kilograms of Oxygen. Just 0.1%, not much.\nWhere did all the rest of the carbon go? Well, some of it is in bacteria, but a lot of it is in the stuff we're currently digging up and burning. If all the plants die, it'll take a while for people to realize that burning all those fossil fuels isn't such a good idea, but it will happen. We'd likely switch to carbon free fuels like Uranium and Plutonium (in fission) or, eventually, hydrogen and helium isotopes for fusion. The problem of feeding ourselves is the immediate one. Happily though, humanity has stored some seeds in seed banks. They won't be modified. We plant those and the ecosystem will eventually find itself on its way back to normal. Might take a while though.", "279" ], [ "Yes, to some extent.\nThe benefit of replacing organs with artificial ones is that humans become like cars, and medicine becomes like car repair. When something breaks, you find the broken part and replace it. Currently, people die from organ failure. That wouldn't happen. Liver cirrhosis: wouldn't happen. Early-stage pancreatic cancer: wouldn't happen. Type 1 diabetes, most heart conditions, ruptured organs, emphysema, arthritis and blindness would all be curable if we had the option to replace damaged or defective organs. You could replace entire bones at a time to reduce the effects of osteoporosis.\nHowever, it wouldn't make us immune to everything. I'm drawing the line here at the brain, since replacing the brain but preserving your consciousness and memories is far beyond the technology we're discussing here. 10 percent of Americans over 65 are afflicted with Alzheimer's disease, which affects the brain.", "335" ], [ "Alzheimer's is the 6th leading cause of death in the US. It wouldn't be solved at all by this new form of medicine.\nThere's also the matter of cellular senescence. When cells divide, small amounts of their DNA are lost. This results in the cellular DNA shortening slightly with every division. To protect against adverse effects from this, the ends of your chromosomes are tipped with sections of random DNA called telomeres. This provides a buffer of DNA that can be safely deleted without damaging your genes. However, as you age, the telomere shortens, and eventually, the functional DNA in your cells is damaged, causing the cell to stop working and just sit around doing nothing, taking up energy. The more of these 'senescent' cells you have, the less efficient your body is, and the more likely you are to develop chronic problems. Replacing individual organs would only help with this to some extent, since we are more than just a collection of parts: every cell has its own complexities.\nOf course, metastatic cancer would be completely unaffected by this treatment.\nSo while organ replacement would make several life-threatening ailments trivial matters, it wouldn't address other, equally deadly problems. Statistically, this would increase life expectancy by a decade or two, maybe, but it wouldn't halt aging or remove the medical problems associated with it.", "335" ], [ "As noted by @a4android in the comments, a hypothetical Earth in a Mars-like orbit probably would have developed much differently (especially with respect to biological activity). I don’t think that’s what you’re curious about, so in this answer I’ll consider what would happen if modern Earth was transplanted into Mars’ orbit.\nThe sun emits radiation radially outward, and we can imagine a spherical “shell” of radiation emitted at any particular moment inflating with the sun at its center. At a distance $R$, the radiation emitted from the sun is distributed over a sphere with surface area $4\\pi R^2$. Since the same amount of radiation is spread over a greater and greater area as it moves away from the sun, intensity decreases proportionally to $1/R^2$. Therefore, since moving Earth into Mars’ orbit increases its distance from the sun by a factor of about $1.4$, the intensity of sunlight striking its surface is multiplied by a factor of $1/1.4^2\\approx 0.51$.\nIf $T$ represents temperature in Kelvin, then light intensity is proportional to $T^4$, meaning that multiplying intensity by $0.51$ results in $T$ being multiplied by $(0.51)^{1/4}\\approx 0.85$.", "921" ], [ "Thus, the immediate result of the distance increase will be an approximate $15\\%$ decrease in average surface temperature.\nHowever, it will actually be a lot more severe than that, because of two self-reinforcing climatological cooling loops:\n* Snow (often) has a high albedo. Regions that receive more snow as a result of cooling will also reflect more of the sun’s radiation energy. This means that the overall proportion of solar energy absorbed decreases, causing greater overall cooling.\n* Water is a greenhouse gas. At lower temperatures, more water will be liquid or solid. This means less water in the atmosphere to help trap heat, causing even greater planetary cooling.\nThis will probably end up being much more harsh than you were hoping. If so, you might consider either increasing the sun’s luminosity (if distance from the sun is crucial in your alternate reality) or putting Earth a bit closer (if a slight but manageable decrease in global temperature is what you’re after).", "184" ] ]

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[ [ "I'm no electrical engineer and my last training in safety around voltages is ages back. I will answer the question according to the wording it had in the first versions:\nMany people now practice \"earthing\", physically linking themselves to the earth ground plug of their home's electrical system. They go as far as sleeping on mesh wire sheets plugged into ground to protect from stray EMF. [...] If a hot wire from, say, a washing machine, suddenly shorts to its chassis, doesn't that route to ground, and isn't our happy \"earther\" suddenly now part of a deadly circuit involving the hot wire?\nBasically, yes. As pointed out in <PERSON> answer, all or most devices with a conducting chassis have this grounded for safety reasons. In these cases, it should make little difference if the person is grounded.However ...\nLet's look at another scenario: Your alarm clock is (not your cell phone but) an older model with an AC connection. You managed to damage the cable near where it enters the (plastic) chassis and touch the live wire when fumbling for the thing one early morning.\nCase 1) You are not grounded in any special way, but lying on a cotton sheet on some mattress on a wooden bed.", "75" ], [ "Resistance for electric current to the ground will be very high. Electrically, you are - grossly simplified - now a capacitor connected to an alternating current via a 1k$\\Omega$ resistor (your arm).\nCase 2) Same as before but you lie on a grounded mesh. This time you are a 1k$\\Omega$ resistor between the live wire and ground. Far more current will flow.\nHigh resistance towards grounding plays a minor role in safety around eletricity. The normal case is that a device is built safely as described. For work on electrical equipment, there's 5 basic rules:\n* switch the power supply to the device you work on off\n* secure it against switching on,\n* confirm by measurement that there's indeed no voltage\n* first ground then short circuit the live wires so if the device is switched on the circuit breaker will engage\n* cover nearby devices, if still connected to power supply\nSo you consider how not to touch a life wire in the first place, not about where the current will go when you do or what the resistance is. The only instance I know of where this was given serious consideration is safety shoes, these need a high resistance according to the relevant industry codes.", "71" ], [ "The it's not possible answers are correct if you interpret the requirements strictly in light of the scene from the movie, where the fridge is directly exposed to the nuclear explosion. Having said that, your company could legitimately market a fridge that would be of benefit, within certain limitations.\n1. The fridge would require to be installed in a cellar, or ideally in a reinforced shelter dug into your garden. At a time of heightened nuclear tension digging a shelter may be something people are prepared to do, similarly to how <PERSON> shelters were dug in many gardens in the UK in WW2. A shelter intended for nuclear use should ideally have a zigzag tunnel leading to it: the earth will provide a very significant amount of protection from direct gamma, neutron and thermal radiation.\n2. The fridge should have a large dedicated compartment for fresh water, sufficient for an entire family to drink for at least a couple of days while you trek out of the fallout zone.\n3.", "548" ], [ "The fridge should have a (non-refrigerated) compartment for other emergency supplies, particularly enough P3 particulate masks for the entire family. As above, these will be used during the first couple of days after the explosion while you trek out of the fallout zone, to prevent internal contamination. Other useful items: ear plugs (your eardrums will likely rupture thus providing a route for contamination particles into the lungs / stomach, so you will want to block your ears), disposable razors (contamination will be trapped quite effectively in hair so you will need to ensure everybody gets a close all-over shave, to reduce contamination), basic medical kit including splints and burns dressings.\n4. The fridge should have a lead-acid battery backup, for when the power goes down, and beefy EMP protection.\n5. The fridge should feature a pull-out strong metal frame so that it can serve the function of a <PERSON> shelter and protect the users from falling rubble if the building above collapses on the cellar, or the roof of the garden shelter falls in. It should also have a shovel and combination hammer / crowbar / wrench in case you need to dig your way out of the rubble.\nIt doesn't really work in the same way as the <PERSON> fridge, but I'd still be pretty happy to have such a fridge in a shelter in my garden if I was worried about possible nuclear attack. Obviously nothing would protect you from a direct hit, but the fridge would considerably enhance a shelter capable of supporting survival in the scenario you outlined as long as sufficient warning was provided to allow you to get into your shelter before the blast.", "548" ], [ "Faraday cage to reduce EMI in audio amplifier\nwestern United States.\nProblem / Question\nThe bad power in my house is somehow producing EMI in my audio equipment. Will a simple Faraday cage help? (Using an aluminum metal screen) If not that, then what would be the best, most practical, cost-effective solution to blocking this interference.\n* As is usual on S.E., if you think I'm wrong about something, please tell me why.\n* I'm not inexperienced with engineering / physics, although not a professional. Technical explanations are welcome but not required.\nStory\nI recently moved into a new rental house. It has old wiring (pre-60s) which is mostly un-grounded and quite degraded. The landlord offered to ground a few of the outlets, but not replace all the wiring. For now, I'm going to have to live with the wiring as-is.\nWhy I think this is EMI\n* Using an amp with a cord as an antenna, the noise behaves exactly like radio wave reception in a TV or a radio.", "859" ], [ "It changes depending on angle, and dissipating somewhat when I block it with my body.\n* I'm using a new power conditioner with ground noise eliminating circutry.\n* There was no noise at all, even without the power conditioner, at my last place.\n* Several other non-audio electrical appliances around the house hum, and sound quite a bit like the noise I hear in the amps.\n* The produced audio frequencies from the noise are all above 500hz or so. It's my understanding that ground loops are usually low-frequency.\n* Using other outlets, grounded or not, all have the same issue.\nThings I already tried that didn't work\n* Plugging in to the grounded outlets around the house using an extension cord.\n* Turning off as many things as possible to find the source of the noise.\n* Using different circuit breakers, turning off as many as possible.\n* Using different combination of audio equipment to reduce noise. Using shielded, balanced audio cables greatly reduces the hum. However, that's not possible with everything I own.\n* Standing in such a way as to reduce the noise. This works somewhat, but is untenable. (this lead me to the Faraday cage idea).", "98" ], [ "In the early days of radio, the resonance of the antenna in combination with its associated inductive and capacitive properties was indeed the item which \"dialed in\" the frequency you wanted to listen to. You didn't actually change the length of the antenna, but by changing the inductor (a coil) or capacitor connected to the antenna you tuned the resonance. The output signal is an alternating voltage, and by rectifying it with a diode (called a \"crystal\" then..) you could extract a signal modulated as a varying amplitude of the carrier wave. All this without any battery! :)\nBut actually the antenna in a normal modern radio is not the component that \"dials in\" the selected broadcast frequency. The antenna circuit should indeed have a resonance within the band of frequencies you are interested in but this wide-band signal is then mixed with an internally generated sinusodial signal in the radio in an analog component, this subtracts the frequencies and lets the rest of the radio operate on a much easily handled frequency band (called the intermediate frequency).", "703" ], [ "It is in the mixer you tune the reception in a modern superheterodyne radio receiver. It is much easier to synthesize an exact mixing frequency to tune with than to change the resonance of the antenna circuit.\nThe rest is not really physics, but the difference between an analog and a digital radio comes in the circuits after this and basically an analog radio extracts a modulation from the intermediate frequency which is amplified and sent to the speakers or radio output. In a digital radio, the signal represents a digital version of the audio, just like a WAV or MP3-file on a computer is a digital representation which can be turned back into an analog signal you can send to a speaker. The benefit of this is that the digital signal requires (potentially) less bandwidth in the air so you can fit more signals in the same \"airspace\" and that the digital signal can be less susceptible to noise. I write \"can\", because unfortunately many commercial digital radio/TV stations don't do this to improve the viewing or listening quality but just to fit in more content.\nLet me reiterate that in a \"digital\" radio, the component that selects the reception frequency is still analog but the mixing (tuning) frequency is digitally controlled and selected.\nThere is also a very interesting thing called Software Defined Radio, SDR, which is the principle where the intermediate frequency (or in some cases the antenna frequency directly) is turned into a digital signal and demodulated by a signal processor which is completely software-upgradeable. Since it is much easier to program new software than to solder electronic components around, this created large interest in the radio hobby community where you can completely change the properties of a radio receiver just by downloading someone else's software from the net or write a new one yourself.\nIf you include SDR, and apply it without any intermediate frequency (take the antenna directly to an analog/digital converter and into a signal processor), you do indeed have a purely software-way of tuning your source like you ask for, although this is not how the most common digital radios work currently.", "703" ], [ "At night, we would have the north star. At day, we would have the sun. While the sun moves quite fast across the sky, a clock would not really need to be very accurate (and it can be ) to get indication of where north and south are. Your typical contemporary decorative hourglass can be expected to be accurate withing +/- 10%. But there were also precision hourglasses: \"Not until the 18th century did <PERSON> and his son <PERSON>, come up with a marine chronometer that significantly improved on the stability of the hourglass at sea. Taking elements from the design logic behind the hourglass, they made a marine chronometer in 1761 that was able to accurately measure the journey from England to Jamaica accurate within five seconds.\"\nInstead of \"the Earth has no magnetic field and th eMoon has\" (basically making life on Earth impossible, but maybe possible on the Moon...), a better premise would have been to have no ferromagnetic material available for navigation purposes.", "840" ], [ "Like some kind of rust-germs, which \"eat\" (degrade) ferromagnit stuff, or ferromagnetism is a \"royal\" privilege and only kings are allowed to own ferromagnetic materials (and every owner of an iron rod permanently risks receiving a death sentence in case this rod gets hit by a lightning or such).\nTo find north from the apparent sun's position:\nYou also need to roughly know your location on Earth and the current date. For any date and location, you can compute the apparent position of the sun in the sky for any daytime time. Or record the positions over the course of half a year for a certain location and use a table.\nA trivial case: at local noon, the sun is in the south (assuming you are on the northern hemisphere). That is also when it has the highest elevation (that was used to find out the a ship's current latitude). Of course, finding the north direction just once a day is not sufficient. But with the pre-computed/pre-recorded table of sun positions, the apparent angle between the sun and north can is known for any daytime time.\nActually a good point: maybe the lack of a magnetic indicator for the north direction would have sped up the development of the marine chronograph.", "393" ], [ "Depends on the Laptop\nThis really depends on the laptop. If it just needs a stable DC supply, that can be done, but if it requires an activation signal as a brand-lock-in annoyance, then you are in for a lot more difficulty!\nDC supplies\nHow you would produce a moderately high current regulated DC supply would depend a bit on era. In the solid state one, semiconductor diode regulators and transistorized regulation yields a fairly straightforward and practical design, albeit with a much heavier power transformer than the tiny high frequency ones used in today's switching supplies. Probably you can find something suitable for borrowing in an existing product (though perhaps not a consumer one). In an earlier era you may need more complicated rectification schemes, and high power low voltage filter capacitance will have to come from a very large array of low value capacitors. You may well end up with an AC operated motor driving a DC generator.\nLead Acid Cells\nAnother option to consider would be storage batteries. For example, one and a half \"12v\" car batteries starts to put you into the right range, and you are mostly targeting an era when car batteries would have been a maintainable array of individual cells held in a common crate, so getting a series connection of nine of them (one full battery, and 3 of the 6 cells in another) should not be hard. You can either charge the battery before use, or possibly use it as a bit of a stabilizer/regulator while connected to a power source.\nEmulate the Battery Pack\nIf you do have a laptop which requires a brand-specific activation signal from the power supply, an option might be to disassemble the battery pack and try to emulate that, probably with some different number of contemporary chemistry battery cells, rather than provide the DC input. You may need to put some thought into emulating the output of a thermistor or other sensors. If the battery has an on-board management IC, you'll have to hope you can somehow generate conditions that satisfy it.", "284" ], [ "Presumably you will shut the laptop down and charge your replacement battery independently of it.\nThe USB Tragedy\nOnce powered your computer will be usable as a manually interfaced data processing machine. A relay team of typists could accept input and produce output, but this will limit utilization of this unique-in-the-world resource. Back in the day when hardware serial and parallel ports were present, building an interface widgit with vacuum tube technology to collect inputs from and channel output to dozens of proto-teletypes would have been possible, but with the \"legacy-free\" switch to USB, not really. About the best that could be done if you decide to donate your services to a larger organization would be some kind of electro-mechanical speed typer to submit input jobs, and perhaps a film camera for capturing output ones for distribution back to the submitters.\nPreserve it\nIt may be a good idea to remove the lower case of the laptop and build it into a console providing more and better filtered cooling air than the tiny ordinary fan can. If the keyboard fails constructing a replacement is actually fairly possible (which gives another input idea, but one whose risk may not be justified before the need). If the hard drive goes, you are in for a lot more trouble. With a PATA interface and the lucky accident of having brought printed documentation you might get somewhere towards constructing a replacement with 1970's digital logic or 1960's research-lab capabilities, with SATA you are out of luck, unless you want to have a go at emulating the bios flash.\nWhile it will be painstaking, while the machine works you'll probably want to do a hex dump of the bios, boot sector, etc and photograph every page for preservation.\nBetter an older laptop\nFor many of the reasons threaded trough this, you'll be best off with a laptop from the 1990's or even the 1980's. It won't be as absolutely powerful as a modern one, but still many orders of magnitude beyond any contemporary alternative in your destination time. More importantly, it will be more maintainable and interfaceable. The battery pack will be built around simpler NiCd or NiMH cells, the power input won't require an activation signal, the disk interface will be one old technologies could emulate and there will be I/O ports within the realm of interfacing, etc.", "284" ], [ "Electrical Grid based on \"Alternating Voltage\" rather than Alternating Current\nMains power electrical systems on Earth supply a fixed standardized voltage to a number of devices, which are all wired in parallel with each other.\nHowever, on the planet I'm writng about, they do it the other way around: instead of getting a fixed voltage, their mains power grid supplies a fixed current, with all devices wired together in series, and all the current-voltage symmetries flipped. This is of course confusingly labelled as \"alternating voltage\", and instead of a constant 120 volts AC, you have a constant 120 amps AV.\nA lot of the same ideas from our electrical system seem to have some kind of equivalent:\nAn appliance's power would be rated by how many volts it takes to run at the constant current - lower power devices might only draw a few millivolts from the grid while high-power domestic devices might take tens of volts.\nA basic electrical receptacle could work by having a single slot with contacts consisting of a pair of leaf springs pressed tightly against each other.", "71" ], [ "The plug has a single insulating blade with a contact on either side, and when inserted it makes contact with both sides of the outlet before separating the leaf springs.\nSwitches would work by shorting out the terminals on a device, allowing current to flow uninterrupted past the device without creating a voltage. Breaks in the circuit would be essentially the equivalent of a short in our voltage-based grid, and a household electrical panel will contain 'circuit keepers' that short across the entire loop if the voltage rises too high. In the context of smaller devices, stuff like MOVs and fuses would trade places.\nTransformers would still work the same way, and the current would, magnifying current instead of voltage and allowing massive transmission.\nIs there somewhere that I'm not thinking of where this symmetry breaks down, or reasons that a mains power electrical grid couldn't work like this?\nFurthermore, would it be possible to build electronic devices on this sort of system? It's unclear to me if electronics could work with some kind of standard \"1 amp DV system\" due to the nature of the fixed voltage drops across semiconductor junctions\nAlso, what would be a reasonable value for the current standard to actually be?\nPer <PERSON>'s request, I've made some basic schematics for how the distribution grid and house wiring might work.\nDistribution grid:\nHouse wiring:", "71" ], [ "What you were asking for in the \"If I were a manager\" part is in fact a thin client, and they were made quite for the reasons you named. Beside the huge mainframes and TTY terminals of the stone ages, in relatively recent past there was a very solid platform called Sun Ray as a terminal able to display X11 sessions from a Linux or Solaris server (and related to it, originally Tarantella's Sun Global Desktop for the browser-based remote desktop/app access, and later Sun VDI for dynamic per-employee VMs). The benefit here was that the \"Desktop Terminal Unit\" had no mechanical parts and no brains, it was on your desk for 10-15 years and as servers and technological abilities (X11, browser, vdi, ...) behind it were upgraded your desktop unit never had to change. And if some condensor did die, you just picked another DTU from the closet and plugged it in, and the user with their smartcard had their same session continued instantly.", "81" ], [ "With about 400Kb(!) of firmware making it a remote video/keyboard/usb connection it virtually had no attack surface (marketing boasted just 4 issues found over almost 20 years on the market, 2 of which were found internally and never reached the open market), and had a good seating in companies, banks, military... until literally one day an Oracle exec said they disband the project, ciao to the team.\nA modern equivalent is a small terminal computer with minimized Linux or similar distro, though not in Sun Rays' range of lack of attack surface, but also offloading (much of) computation and data to the secure central servers. Being a computer, they are more capable than Sun Rays for the modern office needs, from the useless video effects of transparent menus and window shadows, to the more useful video, VoIP etc. support and/or acceleration where supported by respective remote-desktop protocols.\nI did not watch this area lately, so can't recommend what is good today. However, at the time of Sun Rays' untimely demise, many community members discussed migration to ThinLinc as their top choice; I'd assume this influx of geeks and ideas and battle-proven expectations could improve that ecosystem.", "81" ] ]

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[ [ "This is a very difficult problem, I try to explain why.\nIn statistical mechanics, tending to the most probable distribution is a probability event, and for <PERSON>' entropy, $dS\\ge 0$ is also a probability event but not an inevitable result. So you can’t prove $dS\\ge 0$ as an inevitable result from statistical mechanics.\nIf we want to obtain the mathematical proof of the second law from thermodynamics, we must consider the mathematical proof of the entropy first, as a state function. <PERSON>’ definition $dS=δQ/T$ cannot be proven in mathematics, as an exact differential, so the definition $dS=δQ/T$ can only depend on imaginary reversible cycles. On the other hand, in <PERSON> or <PERSON> approaches, the expressions of the entropy are the mathematical equations but not the definition of a physical concept because the equation contains the difference of functions (please see bellow, <PERSON>’s equation), the physical image of the entropy and both the second law are not clear, that is why we cannot explain the physical meaning of entropy according to these approaches. In such case, to prove the second law in mathematics will be very difficult, it is not an isolated problem.\nThe following are the some steps of the link paper, the paper introduce a new approach, and the new statement on the second law can be considered as an axiom.\n1) According to the fundamental equation of thermodynamics (<PERSON>’s equation).\n\\begin{align} dS=\\frac{dU}{T}-\\frac{Ydx}{T}-\\sum_j\\frac{\\mu_jdN_j}{T}+\\frac{pdV}{T}.\\end{align}\n2) Define the function that\n\\begin{align}dq=dU-Ydx-\\sum_j\\mu_jdN_j.\\end{align}\nHere $dq$ can be proven as an exact differential in mathematics, the physical meaning of $q$ is the heat energy within the system.", "273" ], [ "(but not the heat in transfer $Q$)\n3) Such that we get\n\\begin{align}dS=\\frac{dq}{T}+\\frac{pdV}{T}.\\end{align}\nHere $dS$ can be proven as an exact differential in mathematics.\n4) Consider an interaction between the two locals, then we can get the total differential of the entropy production.\n\\begin{align}d_iS=\\nabla \\left(\\frac{1}{T}\\right)dq+\\frac{1}{T}\\nabla Ydx+\\sum_j\\frac{1}{T}\\nabla \\mu_jdN_j+\\nabla \\left(\\frac{p}{T}\\right)dV.\\end{align}\nThis is a non- equilibrium thermodynamic equation.\n5) Prove the total differential of the entropy production $d_iS\\ge0$.\nThe new statement of the second law: \"irreversibility root in a fundamental principle: the gradients of the four thermodynamic forces spontaneously tend to zero\".\nThe four gradients of thermodynamic forces are \\begin{align} \\nabla \\left(\\frac{1}{T}\\right),\\,\\,\\,\\, \\nabla Y,\\,\\,\\,\\, \\nabla \\mu_j,\\,\\,\\,\\, \\nabla \\left(\\frac{p}{T}\\right). \\end{align}\nThe conditions of thermodynamic equilibrium are these four gradients equal to zero.\nPlease compare the different statements about the second law, and see which statement can be considered as an axiom. 1)-4) are quoted from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Second_law_of_thermodynamics\n1) <PERSON> statement\n* Heat can never pass from a colder to a warmer body without some other change, connected therewith, occurring at the same time Heat can never pass from a colder to a warmer body without some other change, connected therewith, occurring at the same time.\n2) <PERSON> statement\n* It is impossible, by means of inanimate material agency, to derive mechanical effect from any portion of matter by cooling it below the temperature of the coldest of the surrounding objects.\n3) <PERSON>'s statement\n* Every process occurring in nature proceeds in the sense in which the sum of the entropies of all bodies taking part in the process is increased. In the limit, i.e. for reversible processes, the sum of the entropies remains unchanged.", "749" ], [ "This topic makes some sense, “Thermodynamics quantities like pressure, temperature and entropy are associated with overall states of a macroscopic system” or associated with overall states of a local, this is a fact. In the equation \\begin{align}dU=TdS-pdV+Ydx+\\sum_j\\mu_jdN_j\\end{align} $T, S, p, V $ “are associated with overall states of a macroscopic system” or a local, $Y, x, \\mu_j, N_j$ can be, but not a requirement. So thermodynamics now is a “Grey box theory”. In some new theoretical models[1], the Intensive variables $T, p$ can be instead, by the distribution of the extensive variables associated with them.", "28" ], [ "For example, consider an idea gas or photon gas, using $q$ denotes the energy of thermal motion within the system, name as the internal heat energy, then we have \\begin{align}dU=dq.\\end{align} The entropy of the system \\begin{align}dS=\\frac{dU}{T}+\\frac{pdV}{T}=\\frac{dq}{T}+\\frac{pdV}{T}.\\end{align} For an idea gas, $T=q/iNk$ and $pV=NkT$, such that \\begin{align}dS=\\frac{iNk}{q}dq+\\frac{Nk}{V}dV.\\end{align} For a photon gas, $q=3pV$ and $T=q/3NR_{p}$, where $R_{{p}}$=$[\\zeta (4)/\\zeta (3)]k$, $\\zeta (3)$ and $\\zeta (4)$ are the <PERSON> zeta functions. Such that, we get \\begin{align}dS=\\frac{3NR_{{p}}}{q}dq+\\frac{NR_{{p}}}{V}dV.\\end{align} It implies, for an idea gas or photon gas \\begin{align}dS=\\frac{iNR_{{k}}}{q}dq+\\frac{NR_{{k}}}{V}dV. \\end{align} Where $i$ is number of the degrees of freedom of the particles, and $R_{{k}}$ denotes the system constant, for an idea gas $R_{{k}}$=$k$, and for a photon gas $R_{{k}}$=$R_{{p}}$. All of the variables in the equation are extensive variables, and an inference for the first term can be made to dynamics \\begin{align} \\frac{iNR_{{k}}}{q}dq\\rightarrow R_{{k}}\\sum_{j=1}^{N}\\sum_{s=1}^s d\\ln\\epsilon_{j{s}}.\\end{align} Where $\\epsilon_{j}$ is the kinetic energy of the particle $j$, and $s$ is the degrees of freedom of the particles. So, thermodynamic quantities are associated with overall states of a macroscopic system, but this “associated with” is not a requirement.\n[1] http://arxiv.org/pdf/1201.4284v5.pdf", "649" ], [ "In fact, $\\delta Q/T$ is the entropy of $\\delta Q$, and if $\\delta Q$ is considered as the heat energy in transfer, it follows that $\\delta Q/T$ is the entropy in transfer. For the inequality \\begin{align}\\oint dS \\ge \\oint \\frac{\\delta Q}{T}.\\end{align} Whether reversible or not does not need to be considered for $\\delta Q/T$ in that the entropy production in heat transport process is that \\begin{align} d_iS=\\Delta \\left(\\frac{1}{T}\\right){\\delta Q}.\\end{align} From non-equilibrium thermodynamics, we have \\begin{align} dS =d_eS+d_iS.\\end{align} Where $d_eS $ denotes the entropy flux, and $d_iS $ denotes the entropy production.", "749" ], [ "A well known fact is that $\\delta Q/T$ is $d_eS$, such that the real meaning of <PERSON> inequality is that \\begin{align} dS =d_eS+d_iS \\geq d_eS=\\frac{\\delta Q}{T}.\\end{align} Only when $d_iS=0$, we can get that \\begin{align} dS = d_eS=\\frac{\\delta Q}{T}.\\end{align} Why don't we define the entropy not by $dS$ for an arbitrary path but by $d_eS=\\delta Q/T$?\n“this creates often confusion since in irreversible processes there are other sources of heat, for instance that due to the dissipation of turbulences or friction, which in fact should not be counted in the δQ.”\nIf we consider that the heat energy is a non-conserved quantity, the changes in the heat energy within a system come from the two sources, one comes from the heat transfer $\\delta Q$, another one comes from the heat conversion. Using $d_eq$ denotes the heat transfer $\\delta Q$, and $d_iq$ denotes the heat production, a new function can be defined by \\begin{align}dq=d_eq+d_iq\\end{align} Where, $q$ is the heat energy within the system, then the fist law can be expressed as \\begin{align}dU=dq+Ydx+\\sum_j \\mu_jdN_j\\end{align} The entropy $ S$ for the system under consideration \\begin{align}dS=\\frac{dU}{T}-\\frac{Ydx}{T}-\\sum_j\\frac{\\mu_jdN_j}{T}+\\frac{pdV}{T}=\\frac{dq}{T}+\\frac{p}{T}dV.\\end{align} In thermodynamics, we have defined the heat in transfer $Q$, but failed to take into account a function to describe the energy of thermal motion within the system. It means that there is a state function, the internal heat energy that was lost.", "749" ], [ "What frame of refernce to select in statistical mechanics?\nSuppose we have a solid particle suspended inside a fluid such as an ideal gas, as shown in the following picture:\nOur system is the solid particle and the environment is the gas (which acts as a heat bath). Our frame of reference is attached on the edge of the container (shown with black color, ignore the other origin for the moment).\nThe energy of the solid particle, composed of $N$ atoms, in this frame of reference is (for sake of simplicity we assume we have a monoatomic solid and neglect the potential energy terms):\n$$ E = \\sum_{i=1}^N \\frac{1}{2}mV_{i}^2 = \\underbrace{\\frac{1}{2}MV_{\\mathrm{cm}}^2}{\\text{KE of the center of mass}} + \\underbrace{\\sum{i=1}^N \\frac{1}{2}mu_{i}^2}_{\\text{KE with respect to center of mass}} $$\nSelecting a frame of reference\nWhat is the correct frame of reference to apply statistical mechanics? The center of mass of the system or the one attached on the edge of the container?\nIf it is the second, then that means that even macroscopic objects such as a rock emerged on a fluid (e.g. sea), they have on average $\\frac{3}{2}k_\\mathrm{B}T$ energy associated with their center of mass, which means that they move a little bit (because of the very high mass). Is that correct?\nI am giving below a gif from Wikipedia which can help visualizing the process.", "453" ], [ "In this gif the yellow \"ball\" is a dust particle.\nFrame of reference and net velocity\nSuppose now that we describe our system based on the origin with blue color, which happens to move relatively to the container (and also to the gas). This means that now $\\langle V_\\mathrm{cm} \\rangle \\neq 0$. This is not a proper frame of reference to apply statistical mechanics since if the relative velocity is increased, the temperature of the solid particle will increase which doesn't make sense. Is that also correct?\nIn summary, when we want to describe our system in statistical mechanics, what frame of reference should we use?", "453" ], [ "Thermodynamic definition of an adiabatic process\nI am posting about this because it seems to be a big issue and misconception in the thermodynamic literature. My issue is about adiabatic processes. As I see it there are two intrinsically different definitions of adiabatic processes:\n1. Processes for which $\\delta Q_\\mathrm{irr}=Td_iS+Td_eS=0$ ($Td_iS$ is the irreversible heat produced and $Td_eS$ the heat due to heat transfer). This means that in these processes there is no heat generation whatsoever.", "749" ], [ "This also means that any adiabatic process is isentropic. Actually, I think this definition is wrong, because every irreversible process will produce entropy $Td_iS$ which cannot be compensated, because the system is thermally isolated ($Td_eS=0$), so that $\\delta Q_\\mathrm{irr}>0$.\n2. (I think the right definition) Processes for which $\\delta Q_\\mathrm{rev}=Td_eS=0$. This means that no heat transfer is allowed into the system, but still irreversible processes can generate heat.\nThe second one should be in principle correct, as an adiabatic, irreversible expansion of a gas can heat it up due to entropy production. To name an example for definition 2, I could name the expansion of the universe which is adiabatic in the sense of no heat transfer (no environment). Still, the entropy is increasing, since $Td_eS\\neq 0$ (while it is assumed to be 0 in definition 1).\nHowever, large parts of the literature work with the first definition also.\nOne example for the use of the first definition is https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/16260/derivation-of-the-relation-between-temperature-and-pressure-for-an-irreversible or https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/38127/reversible-and-irreversible-adiabatic-expansion Here, the authors claim that they derived the expression for the volume change of an irreversible, adiabatic process and starts with the equation (I have seen exactly the same equation in Lecture notes of my Thermodynamics class and other books):\n$\\mathrm{d}U=-p_\\mathrm{ex}\\mathrm{d}V$\nHowever, according to the first law:\n$\\mathrm{d}U=\\delta Q_\\mathrm{irr}+\\delta W_\\mathrm{irr}=\\delta Q_\\mathrm{irr}-p_\\mathrm{ex}\\mathrm{d}V$\nSo to reproduce the equation above $\\delta Q_\\mathrm{irr}=0$ which means that the use of the above equation assumes definition 1, which makes no sense in my opinion.\nIn my opinion, for any process we should have:\n$\\mathrm{d}U=\\delta Q_\\mathrm{rev}+\\delta W_\\mathrm{rev}=0-pdV=-pdV$\nwhich means that no matter the reversibility, a specific volume change will always induce the same change in the internal energy.\nI would appreciate any opinion on this issue.", "749" ], [ "Energy absorbed by a system in isothermic process in which the phase changes from liquid to gas\nA system contains $x$ mole of material, with surface area $S$ is pressed by a mass $M_1$ (no fraction and no any other outer forces involves). Let $\\Delta H_{l\\rightarrow g}$ be the transition enthalpy from liquid to gas. The system is position in $(T,P_1)$ such that the material phase is liquid for those temperature and pressure values ($T$ and $P_1$). Now instantaneously the mass $M_1$ is decreased to to an unknown value which we denote $M_2$ so the pressure decreases.", "749" ], [ "In case that the temperature stays constant until the inner pressure is equal to the outer pressure $(T,P_2:=\\frac{M_2g}{S})$ system gets to back to equilibrium, and the material phase in $(T,P_2)$ is gas, I wish to calculate how much energy was absorbed by the system till it gets to pressure equilibrium $(T,P_2)$.\nIn the question is says that the volume of the liquid can be neglected when compared to gas' volume. And that the volume of the water is independent of the pressure.\nWhat I did so far:\nThe chemical equilibrium pressure (i.e the pressure in the phase transition point) can be calculated because the exercise gives the triple point $(T_\\triangle , P_\\triangle)$ so using the transition enthalpy constant and the constant $T$ of the process, one can calculate $(P_{l\\rightarrow g eq},T)$ (using Clausius–Clapeyron relation). And by $PV=nRT$ one may calculate $V_{eq} = \\frac{nRT}{P}$ the volume in the chemical equilibrium point. By the unstruction $V_{eq}$ is the total volume of the material (we neglect the liquid volume)\nWe know the starting inner pressure which is $\\frac{M1g}{S} [Pa] $ and by the given instruction the the pressure doesn't change the liquid volume we learn that until the phase transition point, the volume of of the system stays constant $V_{eq}$ which we calculated above.\nWhen the system gets to pressure equilibrium point $(T,P_2=\\frac{M_2g}{S})$ we don't know the volume or $P_2$ because $P_2$ is unknown how every we not that its larger then $V_{eq}$.\nI'm pretty much stuck here, I don't see how to translate this information to evaluate the amount of energy absorbed. It seems to me that maybe one more piece of information is needed, but the exercise doesn't give one.", "749" ], [ "Of course, the answer depends on the laws of physics you consider to solve the problem. I’m giving an answer based on really basic laws, but it’s obviously possible to give other answers by taking other theories into account (relativity, nuclear physics, and so on). My answer uses these simple physics models: - basic thermodynamic: energy conservation and entropy. - classical mecanichs: energy can be \"stored\" as movements (linear or rotations), and you have centrifugal forces. - basic chemistry: nuclear reactions in stars are chemical reactions that produces or consume heat (no radiations are taken into account, this no real nuclear reactions as in modern nuclear models, although I confess this is a shame…). - since in your model you have a weight loss due to radiation, we will use this complementary hypothesis: energy can turn into mass, mass into radiations, radiations into energy, or any combination of these (basically more or less \"e=mc^2\")\nThese models are valid, even if they are not the most up-to-date ones ^^ Or it’s up-to-date in a late 1920’s world.\nIn this context, the answer is probably yes, with slight differences, due to these mechanisms: - since you have convection, the atoms are getting hotter while getting closer to the heart of the star.", "273" ], [ "The convection movement can also locally increase the pressure, so the temperature (energy exchange between movement and heat). - more heat and pressure means more possibilities of nuclear reactions, which brings more light (convection -> energy(heat) -> radiations). - more radiations, and more heat, so a higher frenquency of radiation -> red light turns to blue (nuclear physics would be useful here, but I said I would do without it) AND more pressure so more density, so more gravity, so smaller star -> this is your first step (blue dwarf). - more accumulated heat but less materials to react, so the energy can just transfer to movement -> the spinning movement increases while nuclear reactions are slower BUT also in convection movement (due to your first hypothesis) -> centrifugal force make the star bigger and at a lower temperature (density decreases), but the nuclear reactions last longer -> this is your second step (red giant), with a little difference: the convection lets more nuclear reactions happen… So it would rather be an \"orange giant\", not red. - at the end of any nuclear reaction (but it will happen sooner than in reality, since the convection lets more reactions happen, so matter reacts faster, so sooner), you have a classic white dwarf. A slight difference will be that convection will not be possible anymore, so the movement will turn into two possible things: rotation speed (you have a spinning white dwarf) or heat (you have a \"more-than-white\" dwarf, which will looks like a white dwarf in visible range, so no difference).", "184" ], [ "Because you are doing work to compress the gas, and the energy has to go somewhere. The molecules speed up because they collide with the wall moving forward--- if you move a wall forward, a ball which bounces off the wall reflects going faster by twice the speed of the wall, because if you move along with the wall, it reflects at the same speed.\nAnswers to comment questions\n* After the gas cools off, the gas molecules are moving at the same speed as before.\n* The second question is a form of <PERSON> demon. If you know when the molecular collisions come with such precision that you can move the wall when the molecules will not bounce, you can compress the gas without doing any work. But in order to do this, you must get and store the information about where all the molecules are, a process which requires a huge amount of entropy production. The information about the molecules allows you to reduce their volume without increasing their energy.\n* In any situation where classical mechanics works, for kinetic energy of gasses in particular, the temperature is just the same as the average molecular kinetic energy. For all nonrelativistic systems, the average kinetic energy in each atom is $3T\\over 2$ in <PERSON> units (k=1). This is a special case of the equipartition law--- every quadratic degree of freedom gets ${kT\\over 2}$ energy in equilibrium. Because of the relation between temperature and kinetic energy, the speeds of molecules in two gasses at the same temperature are the same. So after the gas comes to equilibrium with the surroundings, it has the same average speed for the molecules independent of its volume (this is a molecular kinetic-energy potential-energy separation theorem, which is even true when the material liquifies or solidifies, at least at room temperature where normal solids obey the Dulong Petit law).\nEntropy increase\nThere is a second way to understand the temperature increase.", "273" ], [ "When you squeeze the gas, you are increasing your knowledge of where the molecules are, you are decreasing their wandering volume. This means that, if nothing else happens, you decrease their entropy. So something must have happened to make you know less about the state of the universe. If they are not allowed to dump heat and entropy into the exterior universe, the only thing that can happen is that they move faster, increasing your uncertainty about how fast they are going.\nThe decrease in entropy with a decrease in volume from $V_i$ to $V_f$ is\n$$ N\\log({V_f\\over V_i}) $$\nThis is intuitive--- the logarithm of the number of configuration is the log of $V^N$ (ignoring an N! denominator from indistinguishable particles.\nThe increase in entropy from a change in temperature from $T_i$ to $T_f$ is given by\n$$ NC_V \\log({T_f\\over T_i}) $$\nWhere $C_v$ is the rate of entropy increase per unit temperature. So that the relation that the entropy is constant gives the adiabatic expansion law: $V\\over T^{C_v}$ is constant, that is, the ratio of absolute temperatures before and after is a certain power of the ratio of the volumes after and before.\nI should point out that if you move the piston extremely quickly, at comparable to the speed of sound of the gas, you will produce extra heat in addition to the minimum necessary to ensure the entropy doesn't go down. The extra heat can be understood in two equivalent ways:\n* you are overcompressing a thin skin of gas near the piston, that momentarily exerts a greater back-pressure on the piston than the gas would normally if you did things slowly. So you are doing more work to compress the gas quickly.\n* You are learning more about the positions of the molecules from the slow rate of pressure relaxation--- you know that a large fraction of the volume of the gas is mushed near the piston.\nThis is a classical more-you-know less-you-know statement, that the more precisely you know where the molecules in a gas are, the less precisely you know how fast they are moving (the hotter the gas gets), at constant information (entropy). This is not the <PERSON> uncertainty principle, it is just classical thermodyanamics, and here the knowledge interpretation is exact, because the entropy is a measure of classical knowledge you have about the microstate. The quantum mechanical uncertainty principle is not a statement of ignorance about hidden variables, at least not in any obvious way, so it doesn't have a precise informational interpretation like this does.", "273" ] ]

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[ [ "BB-8 Droid SMD Components Box\nIntroduction: BB-8 Droid SMD Components Box\nHere's something cool in a galaxy far far away.\nSo I Made a BB-8 Droid Themed SMD components case/Box for keeping important stuff neatly organizes inside this Droid container.\nThe idea for this project pops into my mind while I was cleaning my desk and watching star wars force awaken.\n(not a fan of that particular movie but whatever)\nAs a maker, we all have this issue of keeping important SMD components safe but for that, we need an electronic component box or a Polycarbonate Jewelry box. Most of the time these boxes are already filled with stuff so I thought why not make my own with 3D Printing.\nSo I searched for containers for SMD components on Thingiverse but I couldn't find an existing model so I made my own version by modeling the container after BB-8 Bot.\nIn this Instructables, I'm gonna show you guys how I made this container in few easy steps.\nLet's get started!\nSupplies\n* PLA Filament Orange and Grey (or white)\n* Patience\n* Truss 2.5mm x 5mm screw\n* 3D Printer\nStep 1: Basic Intro\nSo the Beebee-Ate or BB was a BB-series astromech droid that operated approximately thirty years after the Battle of Endor.\nHe had a dome head, similar to that of R2 series astromech droids, with the bulk of his body made up of a ball on which the droid's head rolled. BB-8 was mostly white, with some silver and orange on his body, as well as a black photoreceptor.\nHis first appearance was in the Star Wars: The Force Awakens (2015). He later appeared in the other two films of the sequel trilogy, Star Wars: The Last Jedi (2017), and Star Wars: The Rise of Skywalker (2019).\nApart from the whole lore of star wars, this BB-8 Droid is one of the cutest characters in the whole series, It's basically a rolling ball droid with his head not permanently attached to the upper part, its head stays on with magnets.\nBut this Instructables isn't about making a BB Robot, it's about making a dumber version of the BB-8 Bot which isn't related to robotics at all.\nSMD Components Box which is modeled after BB-8 Droid.\nFor this project, I first searched a BB Droid side view image which can be used for tracing it in any Cad software.\nStep 2: Fusion360 Editing Part\nAs For the Modeling Part, I used Fusion360 for this project.\n* First, I imported the image of Droid in the sketch environment and first calibrated the image to set the size of the image to 80mm wide.\n* then sketch its outline with a three-point arc and splines.\n* I made the base first and then modeled the lines inside the base afterward.\n* Then after making the base, I molded its Lid by copying the bottom outlines on the top side, the thickness of Lid is 1.5mm and the lines are just a few more millimeters extruded in length to give this whole structure a 3D Feel.\n* On one side, I made a stopping pin in the base so the lid only can rotate in one direction.\n* In the end, I exported the 3D Files for 3D Printing in 3mf format.\nI've added the Fusion360 files for this project so you can even edit this project completely according to your preferences.\nStep 3: 3D PRINTING\nAs for 3D Printing the parts, I used two different colors for making this project more aesthetically pleasing.\nTwo-color tone Orange and grey look pretty nice together.\nBoth Filaments are PLA and I printed both of the bodies with the same parameters which are-\n* Nozzle used- 0.5mm Nozzle\n* Infill- 20%\n* Layer Height - 0.2mm\n* Speed - 50\n* Wall thickness - 1.5mm\n* No support required\n* No built place Adhesion\nStep 4: Assembly\nThe Assembly of this project is pretty simple, like really really really simple.\nI added a 2.5mm x 5mm Truss Head screw in the screw mount from the TOP lid side and that was pretty much the assembly part.\nOnly one screw is needed.\nThis Screw acts as a rotation Pin for the LID and Body, it keeps the LID permanently attached to the body and lets it rotate freely as well.\nStep 5: Placing Stuff in It\nAll the empty same in the Bottom Part is to be used for keeping SMD components safe and well organized.", "949" ], [ "C-3PO Blinky Board\nIntroduction: C-3PO Blinky Board\nHey guys and how you doing!\nSo this is the C3P0 PCB Badge or a Blinky Board which is based around 555 Timer IC.\nOriginal C3PO was Built by <PERSON>, C-3PO was designed as a protocol droid intended to assist in etiquette, customs, and translation, but this version doesn't do any of the original tasks, it just blinks.\nI made this setup as a soldering challenge kit, We solder all the SMD components with a soldering iron and the end result will be a complete Bi-Flasher working circuit which is themed after our beloved C3PO.\nAlso, if you're interested in getting this kit for yourself, check out my Tindie page for more details.\nIn this Instructables, I'm gonna show you guys how you can solder this kit in a few easy steps along with a few soldering tips and tricks.\nSupplies\nthese are the stuff that I used in this built\n* 555 Timer IC\n* Coin Cell Holder\n* SMD1206 LED x 2\n* Custom PCB\n* 10K Resistor 0805 Package x 4\n* M7 Diode\n* Switch\n* 22uF 16V Capacitor\n* CON2 Vertical header Pin\n* Soldering equipment\n* and patience\nStep 1: Basic Info About the Circuit\nBefore starting the soldering Process, Let first understand the working schematic of this C3PO Badge.\nThe main component here is the Mightly 555 timer ic which is set up in a Bi Flasher Mode. This means at the output Pin, two LEDs are connected in such a way that when a positive signal gets out of Pin 3 this will make LED 2 Glow and LED 1 will remain LOW, and when the positive signals don't get out of Pin 3 LED 2 will become LOW and LED1 will start glowing\nBi Flasher constantly turns Both LEDs ON and OFF by repetitive biasing of both LEDs through pin 3.\nThe flashing rate can be controlled by changing the value of the capacitor connected between Pin 2 and GND. right now I'm using a 22uf 16V capacitor but if we use a 10uf capacitor, the flash rate will increase.\nI've used the same circuit in my previous Ghost badge Project which is also a soldering kit but a THT one, this version is an SMD soldering kit with almost all component SMD except for Switch, Cap, and CON2 Pin.\nStep 2: Getting PCBs From PCBWAY\nAfter finalizing the PCB and checking it one last time, I exported its Gerber data.\nI used PCBWAY PCB Service for this project. I uploaded the Gerber file of this project on PCBWAY's quote page.", "982" ], [ "For this C3PO badge, I went with yellow Soldermask and white silkscreen.\nAfter placing the order, I received the PCBs in a week and the PCB quality was pretty great, This shape is completely random so it's pretty hard to make but they did an awesome job of making this PCB with no error whatsoever.\nYou guys can check out PCBWAY if you want Great PCB Service at an Affordable rate and low price.\nStep 3: Soldering Process\nAfter getting the PCBs, I started the assembly process which includes adding SMD components first and then adding THT Components.\nWe have to add timer ic and a few resistors on the backside first and then LEDs on the front side. Let's start with the backside first.\n* First set up your soldering station with an Iron Tip Temp of 316°- 343°C.\n* We start by adding solder to each component pad first, just on one side.\n* Then we pick the component and place it in its place by heating the added solder.\n* solder will melt and hold the component from one side, then we redo this process for all the components. the goal here is to temporarily hold the component from one side and later add more solder wire on the other side which will connect the components to the other pad and the soldering process will get completed.\n* After placing each component, we use the solder wire to solder the other end of each component that hasn't been connected to the pad yet. this method of soldering SMD component is widely used and it's very easy to learn as well.\n* for adding an SMD Coin Cell holder, the same method has to be used, we add solder to one pad, use that pad to hold the component in place, and then add solder to the other pad to hold the component in its place completely.\n* now after soldering all the components on the bottom side, we start the LED soldering.", "472" ], [ "3D Printed Mini Air Kooler (the OverEngineered Edition)\nIntroduction: 3D Printed Mini Air Kooler (the OverEngineered Edition)\nHey everyone What's up!\nLet me show you something COOL!\nA completely 3D Printed Mini Air Cooler that is powered by a Jet Turbine.\nSo the goal here was to make a small but powerful Air Cooler that utilizes water to cool down air that is fed by a Jet Turbine.\nIn this Instructables, I'm going to show you guys how I prepared this Air-Water Cooler in few easy steps.\nSo Let's get started!\nSupplies\nStuff I used for this built-\nElectronics-\n* Arduino Nano\n* BLDC Motor\n* 12V Li-ion Battery Pack\n* Potentiometer\n* Breadboard\n3D Printed Parts\n* LID\n* Mainbody\n* Turbine Connector\nStep 1: Prologue, Basics and Stuff\nFun Fact, you could use water to cool down just about anything, in this case, Air.\nSo I wanted to create a portable Mini Cooler that utilizes water to cool down the air which is fed by a DC Fan.\nThis project utilizes the concept of evaporative cooling wherein evaporation of water is used to cool the air.\nThe water extracts the heat from the warm air and starts to evaporate leaving behind cool, fresh, and moistened air which is thrown via a fan into the room.\nFor this project, I could use a normal Computer Fan but those are slow and not ideal for blowing air at a fast pace so instead, I had an idea of using my 3D Printed jet Turbine in this project which I made a few months ago.\nBenefits Of Using Air Coolers\n* It's Efficient\n* Portable and easy to install\n* It's Cheap and pretty much DIY.\nCONSTRUCTION\n* I first designed a base body in fusion360 that is modeled in a square shape, I place the turbine on one side of the body at an angle so air will blow inside it directly.\n* On the front side, I made grills for air to pass through.\n* The base body will hold the water and the turbine will blow warm air on it from the outside.\n* Water will cool down the warm air and air will go out from the front grills.\n3D Printing\nAfter Preparing the 3D Model of the whole setup, I then 3D Printed them on my ender 3 with a 0.5mm Nozzle.\nI used PLA at 15% infill but you could use any material as we are not dealing with heat or something that could warp or deform the plastic.\nalso, This project required a waterproof and water sealed base to hold water so layer height is an important factor here. To make this Model water sealed, I just decreased layer height from 0.2mm to 0.16mm just to make things TIGHT!\nAfter 3D Printing the Base, I tested its water-holding capability by pouring water into it and it didn't leak.\nAlso, here's a quick trick on waterproofing 3D Prints, just spray them with metal or plastic paints!\nStep 2: 3D Printed Jet Turbine Construction\nNow let's work on the 3D Printed Jet Turbine.\nFollowing are parts of the Jet Turbine that you need to 3D Print.\n* Nozzle\n* Compressor\n* Motor Holder\n* Turbine\nThis Jet Turbine is powered by a Generic BLDC Motor (the orange one), I first Modeled a Fan Blade in fusion360, then I prepared a body around it. Please see the video for the construction part.\n(construction part of this turbine is not very complex, we just attach everything together like a custom lego set)\nStep 3: Overall Design and Pre Assembly\nAs for the design part of this project, I modeled everything in Fusion360.\nI have already modeled the Jet Turbine before so I just imported it into my setup and designed the main body according to the angle of the turbine. (turbine is shifted at an angle so air will blow inside at an angle of 60 Degree)\nAir will get blown inside the Main Body through turbine and water inside will cool it down.\nStep 4: Assembly Process\nThe Assembly Process of this project was pretty straightforward,\n* I first removed the Support material from the base body's Grill.\n* After that, I attached the Turbine cover with the base body in its assigned location/position with help of four 2.2mm Screws.\n* Then I added LID to the Turbine cover by using two 2.2mm x 10mm Screws to hold the LID in its place.", "411" ], [ "3D Printed BOOMBOX\nIntroduction: 3D Printed BOOMBOX\nHey everyone how you doing!\nSo this is my 3D Printed BOOMBOX Bluetooth Speaker which is a completely 3D Printed Speaker setup that houses Four Speakers with a 100W Bluetooth Audio Amplifier Module based on TTPA3116D2 100W Audio AMP IC.\nOriginally this was supposed to look Shiny and metallic because of a Metal finish Paint but I have done any surface finishes on it yet.\nSo the first thing that comes to mind after seeing this speaker is, it's pretty huge, and making this huge speaker did cause me a lot of problems.\nhere's the first problem, currently I only had an ender 3 printer which works perfectly but due to its small built plate, I had to print parts in pieces which really took a lot of time.\napprox 50 Hours.\nthen there was a warping issue, and other small stuff like bed leveling problem, print failed mid-time, etc. each of these snags was all a chance to learn something and we can do better next time.\nAside from all the problems, in the end, I completed this project which took more than a week, and the end result looks and works perfectly.\nAs for the painting process, I'll prepare a separate video about the filling, priming, and painting of these 3D Printed parts soon!\nIn this Instructables, I'm gonna show you guys the whole built process of this Speaker setup.\nSo let's get started!\nSupplies\nThese are the stuff that i used in this built-\n* Speakers 1Ohms x2\n* Speakers 8Ohms x2\n* TTPA3116D2 100W Audio AMP Moudule\n* 3D Printer Filament\n* DC Barrel Jack\n* 12V Li-ion Battery Pack\n* Diode SR206\n* 3mm LED\n* 10K Resistor\n* Rocker Switch\n* Nuts and bolts M5 x 20+\n* Nuts and bolts M3 x 20+\n* Screws 2.2mm x 10+\nStep 1: AUDIO PART\nSo the speakers that I'm using are from my old home theater setup made by Samsung, I salvaged speakers from it and prepared a Body or an enclosure for them.\nAlso, this speaker setup is made in such a way that we can add two more speakers to make it a 3x3 speaker with much more power output.\nHere's how this is possible-\n* I've placed two-speaker on the left side and two on the right side\n* On each side, two speakers are housed in their bodies.\n* we prepare a new speaker body and add it in between these two on both sides.\nthe result will be a much taller BT Speaker which will be louder than the current setup but that is just a point for a later improvement.\nStep 2: Let's Start First With the Materials That I've Used\nMaking a BT speaker requires very fewer parts, you need a driver which in my case was a 100W*2 Bluetooth Audio Amplifier Module, this module uses TPA3116D2 which is a 100W Filter-Free Class-D Stereo Amplifier, I got this from PCBWAY's gift shop.\nPCBWAY gift shop is an online marketplace where you can get a variety of electronics modules and boards for their genuine price or you could use the PCBWAY currency which is called beans.\nYou get these beans after ordering something from PCBWAY as reward points or you can also get them by posting any project in the PCBWAY community. Check PCBWAY out for getting great PCB service from here- https://www.pcbway.com/\nThen I used more than a roll of filament in this project.\nThe filament material was PLA and color doesn't matter because I'm planning to give this speaker metallic silver paint soon!\nStep 3: Designing Part and 3D Printed Parts\nI modeled this speaker in fusion360, the modeling part took time but the end result was a nice-looking BT Speaker that is made in parts.\nIn total there are five separate enclosure sections that will be attached to each other with help of nuts and bolts.\nNow, here's an issue, each body was taking a too long time to print even with a 0.5mm nozzle, so I divided each model into two parts, top, and bottom.\nI printed all the parts in two sections, so I had to make them a single part again by gluing them together with superglue, you can use a special 3D Print material glue here but normal super glue will work fine as well.\nI did this with a total of 5 sections and the end result was a complete single PC enclosure for each speaker.\nAlso, about the print settings, I used a 20% infill with supports, 0.2mm layer height, and a 0.", "485" ], [ "DIY Studio Light/ Light Box\nIntroduction: DIY Studio Light/ Light Box\nHey Everyone what's up.\nThis is my DIY Studio Light Project\nWhich basically is a do-it-yourself studio light that is made from a custom 3D Printed body and a custom PCB which were both provided by PCBWay.\nQuestion\nIs it better to Buy an expensive Studio Light or Make your own DIY Studio Light with custom 3D Printed parts and PCB?\nWell, the goal for making this project was just that, I wanted to make a DIY Studio Light for my current \"Maker Setup\" as the lighting in my lab bench is not very great.\nCommercially available light costs above 50$ (good ones) but why spend money on them when you can make your own Studio Light, Body can be made from a 3D Printer and the circuit can be manufactured by a PCB manufacturer.\nIn this Instructables, I'm gonna show you guys how I made this DIY Studio Light in few easy steps.\nLet's Get started!\nSupplies\nThese are the things that I used for this built\n* LEDs (NICHIA JK3030 3V .2W LED)\n* 1.5 Ohms Resistance 1206 Package\n* 0.47 Ohms Resistance 1206 Package\n* 100uf Capacitor\n* 63uH Indictor\n* SS34 Diode SMA\n* DC Barrel Jack\n* Custom PCB (which was provided by PCBWAY)\n* Custom 3D Printed body (which was also provided by PCBWAY)\n* SIC9301A led driver IC x2\n* 12V DC FAN (Generic small one)\n* 12V SMPS Power Supply\nStep 1: Basic Structure\nMy goal was to make a DIY Studio Light completely from scratch to compete with existing light available in the market.\nThe reason for starting this project was the cost of the existing setup, Commercial Studio Light isn't exactly cheap and I need at least 2-3 Lights which would cost a lot so I made an easy-to-make Studio Light with custom PCB and 3D Printed Body.\nAlso, I'm using a generic FR4 PCB here. these LEDs produce a lot of heat so why I'm not using MCPCB (metalcore) instead of FR4 (fiberglass) for making a better-LED PCB that can disperse heat better than FR4 Board?\nYou see, I have added lots and lots of Via in this PCB, these Via will conduct heat from the top side and transfer that heat to the bottom portion which will result in Heat getting Disperse equally. Then at the backside, there's a 12V Mini DC FAN which cools down the PCB heat.\nApparently, Metal PCBs or MCPCBs are not $$$ wallet-friendly and if I have used a metal PCB in this project, I also have to use another FR4 board for LED Driver IC setup.", "982" ], [ "So I saved a lot by making a single PCB that contains the LEDs and Driver IC setup.\nAlso, the Body of this light is made from PET-G which is quite a durable plastic so overall, this DIY Studio Light can sustain heat.\nStep 2: Schematic\nThe main schematic of this project is attached above and as you can see, it's not very complex. it contains two LED Driver IC setups both with their LOAD (LEDs) connected separately.\nTheir Input side is connected with each other which is the common Input VCC and GND. we will supply 12V to these two terminals to run this board.\n(yes, I haven't used any Microcontroller or any Switching IC in this Circuit)\nStep 3: PCB Designing\nWith the above Schematic, I prepared the PCB in my CAD software.\nThe board outlines were already designed in the Fusion360, I used its measurements as a reference to make the PCB.\nI placed LEDs at the center of the board and maintained an equal distance between them, to keep things symmetrically accurate.\nAnd as you can see, I've placed lots of Vias in this PCB. Vias cover almost 70% of this PCB and they are here for Conducting heat as well as connecting one side with another side of the board.\nAnyways, after finishing the PCB, I exported its Gerber data and send it to PCBWay for samples.\nI Received the PCB in 7 days which is pretty fast, and it also came with a PCB Scale which was pretty cool (I have used my beans to get that scale though)\nI have to say, PCBs that I've received were great as expected, PCBWay, you guys rocks.\nCheck out PCBWay for getting great PCB Service for less cost!\nNext is the PCB Assembly Process.", "472" ], [ "WS2812 Big Edition\nIntroduction: WS2812 Big Edition\nHey what's up you guys, So here's something super cool.\nA Huge WS2812 Addressable LED that is 10 times bigger than an average WS2812B LED.\nThis Huge LED Pixel is made by combining a few 5050 RGB LEDs with the WS2811 Addressable LED IC on a custom PCB with a 3D printed Enclosure.\nA small chip of WS2811 is also present inside the WS2812 that is connected to R, G, and B.\nMy goal here was to make a magnified version of WS2812 LED that I will use in a future matrix Project.\nThis Instructables is gonna be about the whole built process of this Huge Pixel so let's get started!\nSupplies\nFollowing are the materials I used in this built-\n* 5050 RGB LEDs\n* Custom PCB which was provided by PCBWAY\n* 100nF 1206 Capacitor\n* 24R Resistor\n* 3D Printed Enclosure\n* WS2811 Addressable LED Driver IC\n* Solder paste\n* Arduino Nano for controlling the Pixel\n* Pots\nStep 1: Concept\nThe most commonly used WS2812 LED dimension is around 5mm x 5mm.\nI wanted to make a Pixel that is 10 times bigger which means my version should be around 50mm x 50mm in size.\nTo get started, I first search for WS2811 IC's Datasheet and used one of its given example layouts to prepare a simple schematic that has 3 LEDs in series and 3 in parallel.\nStep 2: PCB DESIGN\nAfter finalizing this schematic, I converted it into a Board file and prepared a simple square PCB with a dimension of 50mm.\nI placed LEDs and all componenets in a circle of dia 40mm.\nThe reason for doing this was, I plan to add an enclosure on this PCB which will cover the whole board except for the circular part.\nI connected all the componenets with a 1mm width track and then exported the Gerber data before checking it one last time.\nStep 3: PCBWAY\nAfter finalizing the PCB, I sent it to PCBWAY for samples.\nI choose white Soldermask for this project as WS2812B is white in color and white soldermask looks great in general.\nI received the PCBs in a week which was super fast.\nAs for the overall quality, it was truly awesome. I ordered 20 boards and each board was perfect.\nBeen using their service for a while now and I have to say, PCBs that I got was great as expected!\nCheck out PCBWAY for getting great PCB service for an economic price and high quality!\nStep 4: PCB ASSY PROCESS\nThese are the steps for the main assembly of this Board.\n* Solder paste Dispensing Process\n* Pick & Place Process\n* Hotplate Reflow\n* Adding Connector\nStep 5: SOLDER PASTE\nThe first step is to add solder paste to each component pad one by one.\nTo Apply solder paste, I'm using a Solderpaste Dispensing Needle with a Wide syringe, and the solder paste I'm using is a regular solder paste consisting of 63% Tin and 37% Lead.\nStep 6: PICK & PLACE PROCESS\nAfter carefully applying Solderpaste we move on to the next step which is to add componenets to their assigned location.\nThis one is simple, we lift each component and place them in their assigned location with the right polarity, this is crucial in the case of IC and LEDs.\nStep 7: HOTPLATE REFLOW\nAfter the \"Pick & Place Process\", I carefully lifted the whole circuit board and place it on my DIY SMT Hotplate.\nI made this Hotplate especially for making projects like these which require SMD soldering. hotplate available in the market were not exactly cheap so I made a minimal version of that which you can check out from here-\nhttps://www.instructables.com/DIY-SMT-Hotplate-Project/\nthe hotplate heats the PCB from below up to the solder paste melting temp, as soon as the PCB reaches that temp, solder paste melts and all the components get soldered to their pads.\nStep 8: ADDING CONNECTOR\nAt last, I added a CON3 male header pin at the backside of this board so I could use it to connect this Pixel on a breadboard.\nStep 9: WIRING DIAGRAM\nAfter adding the connector, I added this Pixel with an Arduino Nano by following the above wiring diagram.\nI powered this setup with a 12V Supply but ran into some problems afterward.", "982" ], [ "R2D2 Mini Edition\nIntroduction: R2D2 Mini Edition\nSo here's something special, A Mini R2D2 PCB that speaks Astromech.\nAstromech is a fictional language in the star wars franchise consisting of whistles and beeps.\nThis Mini R2D2 that I made is a Keychain.\nIts brain is an Attiny85 and is powered by a CR2032 Coin Cell holder.\nI was inspired by this Instructables- https://www.instructables.com/R2D2-Sound-Generator/\n<PERSON> made a simple Arduino Uno setup that produces random beeps every 3 seconds.\nI took the concept and prepare the whole thing by using an Attiny85 with a standalone circuit instead of using a whole Arduino UNO.\nCheckout this PCB on Tindie- https://www.tindie.com/products/makerpals/droid-themed-badge-v2/\nSupplies\nThese were the materials used in this built-\n* Attiny85 SOIC8\n* BUZZER\n* CR2032 Coin Cell Holder\n* CR2032 Coin Cell\n* Slide Switch\n* Custom PCB\n* 0805 Package LED RED x2\n* ATtiny Programmer\nStep 1: Attiny85 Setup\nBefore getting started, I prepared a simple Attiny85 Setup that consist of an Attiny Connected with a Buzzer and one LED.\nI followed the below schematic for connection and made a Breadboard edition first.\nI programmed the attiny85 with my Arduino as ISP Programmer just by putting the attiny85 onto the IC Socket and flashing the MCU.\nStep 2: PCB Design\nAfter finalizing the breadboard edition, I started making a schematic in my PCB Designing suite.\nThe Schematic consists of an Attiny85 connected with a CR2032 Cell, Two LEDs are connected in parallel are attached with Pin D2 and a Buzzer is added to Pin D0. (Buzzer Pin must be a PWM Pin)\nA Switch is also there between CR2032 and Attiny85.\nAfter Finalizing the Schematic, I move on to the designing part of the board.\nI first searched for R2D2 2D Image on google and selected this one, it was minimal and will look good even after converting into Black and white BMP.\nI had to convert this images into a BMP image as my OrCad PCB Suite only imports Images from BMP format.\nAfter converting the image, I imported it as a silkscreen TOP layer and prepared the board around this image.\nI put the Attiny85 and LEDs on the TOP side and added the remaining THT Components from the BOTTOM Side.\nI also added a few solder mask openings on the copper layer and on FR4 to increase the aesthetics of the board. (to make it look great)\nStep 3: Getting PCBs From PCBWAY\nAfter completing the design, I uploaded the Gerber data on PCBWAY's quote page, I selected the solder mask color which was BLUE and placed the order.\nI choose BLUE Soldermask as R2D2 is Blue and Silver, White Silkscreen will replace silver color.\nAfter placing the order, I received the PCBs in a week and the PCB quality was pretty great.\nReally loved the end result.\nYou can checkout PCBWAY from here- www.pcbway.com\nStep 4: PCB ASSEMBLY\nAfter unboxing the PCBs, I started the assembly process which had the following steps.\n* Solder Paste Dispensing\n* Pick & Place Process\n* Hotplate Reflow\n* Adding THT Components\n* Flashing Process of Attiny85\nStep 5: Solder Paste Dispensing\nThe first step is to apply solder paste to each component pad.\nI used a normal Sn-Pb solder paste which has a melting temp from 140 to 270 °C.\nStep 6: PICK & Place Process\nI then used an ESD Tweeaser to carefully pick and place each component on their assigned place one by one which took like 30 Seconds tops but the result was a perfect PCB with all the components placed in their location.\nStep 7: Hotplate Reflow\nAfter the \"PICK & Place Process\", I carefully lifted the whole circuit board and place it on my DIY SMT Hotplate which is also homemade just like this project.\nAfter a Few mins when the hotplate reaches the Solderpaste melting TEMP, all the components will get soldered by this Hot Reflow process.\nWe then remove the PCB from the Hotplate to cool down all components and board surface.", "769" ], [ "Power Block\nIntroduction: Power Block\nHey Everyone what's up!\nSo this is Power block, a DIY UPS that can be used to power a bunch of 5V Operated things like a raspberry pi, an Arduino project, or even charge devices like a tab or smartphone.\nThe heart of this project is this Buck Converter Circuit that I got from PCBWAY's Giftshop.\nPreviously, I've prepared a similar setup that has an onboard buck converter circuit but it can only output 5V 2A and its voltage was not stable, also that project was made for powering 12V things but this Power block is made especially for powering things that operate at 5V Range.\nThis Instructables is gonna be about the whole build process of this UPS, so let's get started.\nSupplies\nFollowing are the materials required in this small built-\n* DC-DC Buck Converter Circuit\n* Battery Pack 12V 25Ah\n* 3D Printed Case\n* Rocker Switch SPDT\n* DC Barrel Jack\n* Wires\n* 5mm RED LED\nStep 1: Main Circuit, DC-DC Buck Converter\nThis is a DC Step-Down Module that takes voltage between 8V to 40V and Provides a Constant 5V 8A Output that can be used to power all sorts of stuff.\nIt has reverse connection protection, overcurrent protection, and overtemperature protection which is what I needed for this kind of project.\nI got this circuit from PCBWAY's Giftshop.\nhttps://www.pcbway.com/project/gifts_detail/6USB_output_DC_step_down_module_12V24v36V_to_5V_8A.html\nPCBWAY gift shop is an online marketplace where you can get a variety of electronics modules and boards for their genuine price or you could use the PCBWAY currency which is called beans.\nYou get beans after ordering something from PCBWAY as reward points or you can also get them by posting any project in the PCBWAY community.\nCheck PCBWAY out for getting great PCB service from here- https://www.pcbway.com/\nFollowing are a few of its features\n* Fix output voltage.\n* High-quality terminal block.\n* 6-Channel USB output.\n* High current output.\n* High conversion efficiency.\n* Stable output.\n* Dual interface free selection input.\n* Support multiple devices to use at the same time.\nStep 2: Battery Pack\nI've connected a 12V 25Ah Battery Pack with this module that I made using Li-ion Cells. You can use a premade battery pack that is available on market, just make sure to buy a battery pack that has an onboard battery management system attached as the buck converter I'm using doesn't have a low cut or high cut feature.\nThe low cut is important as it turns off the power output of the battery pack whenever cells reach their lowest voltage which is 2.8V for each cell and 8.4V for this battery pack as it has the configuration of 3S 10P.\nStep 3: 3D Printed Case\nNext, I measure the circuit and prepared its 3D Drawing first and then used the model as a reference to make a thick body that holds PCB Vertically and holds the battery at the center.\nI used fusion360 for designing the body and exported 3mf files for the Body and Lid so I could 3D print them both.\nAs for 3D Printing, I used generic PLA with an 0.5mm Nozzle and 0.28mm layer height with 20% Infill.\nStep 4: Prep Work Before Main Assembly\nBefore starting the main assembly, I first added wires to SPDT Rocker Switch's both terminal along with DC Jack's Vcc and GND so I could solder them both during the assembly of the circuit.\nThe main circuit has an SMD 0603 Package status led that turns on whenever we supplied power to the battery side, I removed this SMD led and added a 5mm RED THT LED using two wires. Later I tested the LED by plugging a 12V Power source through DC Jack on the circuit.\nAfter preparing the Switch, DC Jack, and circuit, we move on to the next step which is to assemble everything.\nStep 5: Wiring Diagram\nStep 6: Main Assembly\n* First, I added Circuit to its assigned place by sliding it into the grooves, then after this, I added DC Jack, LED, and switch in their place.\n* I then connected the DC Jack, Switch, Battery, and circuit together by following the attached wiring diagram.\n* After wiring, we place the battery in its place and add hot glue to the circuit, Switch, DC Jack, and battery so they dont move from their place.", "982" ] ]

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[ [ "Some scattered thoughts -- In a glass world - I imagine some form of silicon based life. The storms you describe remind me of sand-blasting and the kinds of rubbery materials used to block off the particles. This suggests the creature or being would have a silicone skin that constantly grows and sheds in tiny piece somewhat like our own skin. Glass though hard is also very brittle and it will fracture. You could make the temperature of your world near or within temperature ranges where the glass is close to changing from solid to liquid. That might offer properties where less energy is needed to affect the glass either to melt it or to initiate a fracture. At higher temperatures your creature or being might need a sapphire based skin or outer shell. Due to the high viscosity of glass at lower temperature ranges of melt physical movement through liquid glass would be extremely slow and difficult. At higher temperatures your lifeforms would require something like a sapphire shell and ways to cool itself.", "561" ], [ "There are special types of glass that melt at low temperatures -- lead crystal for example. There is even a special type of glass formulated with Vanadium that has an extremely low melt temperature. It's used for hermetic sealing electronic components. Actually glass comes in hundreds of different formulations with a wide range of properties. My mind jumped to the idea of a silicone sea on a base of glass heated from the center of the planet as well as from its sun. I don't recall why the Earth's core is hot -- but there are several ways to imagine a heated core. I recall some of the moons of Jupiter or Saturn have heated cores. Suppose your lifeforms do not move about but incorporates structures into the glass mountains to expand and replicate itself. Perhaps your glass grew as a kind of miniature spaghetti of glass fibers your light based creatures might modify it to assemble themselves as a giant optical computer. Maybe a natural lasing action provides energy the creatures can use -- something analogous to the hydrothermal vents in our oceans.", "561" ], [ "The same terraforming techniques used in the Red/Blue/Green Mars series wouldn't work on a gas giant. But some form of terrafroming may. The thing about gas giants is that their atmospheres are layered and of varying composition. Their cores are so high pressure that they are essentially molten. We'd never be able to live down there. However, many gas giants probably have a layer in their atmosphere that would be the right pressure and temperature for human habitation. It may not have the right atmosphere composition.\nMost gas giants have a primarily hydrogen/helium atmosphere. Mars' atmosphere is primarily CO2. So in the Red, Blue, Green Mars series, what they are doing is causing runaway global warming (releasing more stored CO2) to increase atmospheric pressure and surface temperature. Then they are planting plants to convert the CO2 to O2.\nIt's probably not possible to use similar atmospheric modification techniques to adjust the composition of gas giants. It depends heavily on the composition of the atmosphere at the correct temperature and pressure layer. There are trace amounts of CO2 and Oxygen.", "778" ], [ "And since the layers stratify, it's possible that there could be an oxygen layer or a CO2 layer. They may or may not line up with the correct pressure and temp. If an oxygen layer does, we're in good shape -- no terraforming required. If it doesn't or a CO2 layer does, then its likely that it would not be modifiable, because any oxygen created would rise or fall to a different layer. If, by some strange coincidence the oxygen layer is only slightly above or below the CO2 layer, that is the one circumstance where similar techniques could work. Grow the O2 layer and it will take up the space (maybe) vacated by the CO2. On the otherhand, if the correct layer is helium or hydrogen, then the techniques used on Mars would not work. Period. Also, this would require some sort of technology that would allow us to float platforms or airships pretty much indefinitely with out too much energy expenditure at the correct level in the atmosphere.\nIn Venus' case, the problem is the reverse of that on Mars. On Mars, the terraforming involves causing runaway global warming -- basically. On Venus, the problem is reversing it. So it would require completely different techniques.", "778" ], [ "Looking to optimize the atmospheric gas mix and pressure for humans for minimal cellular degeneration\nTo build another world, I would want a perfected atmosphere that would sustain the air cycle and yet optimize a decreased cellular degeneration. i.e.: increase quality and length of life. Would we want to increase the pressure -- change the mix of the gas mixes or both?\nWith our earth's atmosphere currently by volume, dry air contains 78.09% nitrogen, 20.95% oxygen, 0.93% argon, 0.039% carbon dioxide, and small amounts of other gases. Pressure on the surface of the earth averages out 1 bar. With Nitrogen being inert and the oxygen ratio enough to promote functional respiratory systems and organ health In humans, how can this be optimized?\nHyperbaric oxygen chambers promote healing, increases cellular oxygen exchange and cellular regeneration.", "279" ], [ "NIH studies show the human body heals faster at a pressure greater than 1 ATA within a mono-chamber of highly concentrated oxygen (more than the human body can breathe through the respiratory system without suffocating). However, this is for short durations of time (1-2 hours) and is not sustainable.\n<PERSON>'s law of diffusion within the human body -- \"The net diffusion rate of a gas across a fluid membrane is proportional to the difference in partial pressure, proportional to the area of the membrane and inversely proportional to the thickness of the membrane. Combined with the diffusion rate determined by <PERSON>'s law, this law provides the means for calculating exchange rates of gases across membranes. The total membrane surface area in the lungs (alveoli ) may be on the order of 100 square meters and have a thickness of less than a millionth of a meter, so it is a very effective gas exchange interface.\" Based on this understanding, we can increase the oxygen concentration rate and breathe it safely if we increase the atmospheric pressure. What is sustainable for long periods of time, is another question?\nSo, combining the two understandings of the human body, what would be the optimum mix of atmospheric gases and pressure to optimize cellular regeneration with the human body over the lifespan.\n1.0 ATA with same gas mix;\n1.2 ATA with same gas mix;\n1.4 ATA with same gas mix;\n1.5 ATA with same gas mix;\nhigher ATA with same gas mix.\n1.0 ATA with 21% O2;\n1.2 ATA with 22% O2;\n1.4 ATA with 23% O2;\n1.5 ATA with 24% O2;\n1.5 ATA with 25% O2;\nHigher ATA with higher O2?", "279" ], [ "There is an advantage to metal foams in some cases. If you want to increase the strength in resisting bending or twisting loads the increased thickness (for the same mass of metal) is a huge advantage.\nThere are likely some components in a space station that would benefit from metal foam. However, most components will not have to resisting twisting or bending and and primarily have to support stretching or compression loads, for which foamed materials are somewhat worse than convention materials. A beam in compression that is subject to buckling is an example of bending load that would make sense for foamed materials.\nFoamed steel is really not commercially available today, but may be easier to manufacture in null gravity.\nSo, a minority of the components would benefit from foamed steel. But the majority clearly would not.\nIf you are lifting mass from earth to build your station, there is really no reason to us foamed steel. Some composites have better strength and there would be have other advantages as well. Radiation shielding would be one of these advantages. Thermoset plastics are often very convenient compared to what foamed steel would require though they are not as strong.\nIf you are making steel in bulk from asteroids, etc. The foamed steel becomes much more attractive since we have not struck oil in space and don't expect to do so anytime soon.\nNow to the stated question. Could you make your orbital using foamed steel. Yes, I believe you could.", "561" ], [ "I don't have data for the actual strength of foamed steel (not really on the market), but based on what I learned in materials engineering I would guess that it is weaker than standard steel components for 2 reasons. 1) It would be hard to control the quenching process in foamed steel to get the best strength possible. 2) Cracks tend to form in materials near sharp bends in the material -- the sharp corners have higher stress regions. Since foamed steel would be nothing but sharp corners, I would expect it to fail more quickly than equivalent bulk steel.\nIIRC, the Stanford torus was calculation to be with a normal safety margin even if the radius was extended to 4 km (a little over double). Given that, I would assume the even the reduced strength of foamed steel would not break the design safety. But, without actual strength data, this is only a best guess.\nFoamed aluminum is likely a better choice as it is stronger per unit mass and we can actually produce foamed aluminum with reasonable ease today. However, if you want your station to last more than a few years, it is back to steel. Aluminum has a very nasty habit of falling apart after a number of expansion and contraction cycles. Steel does not do this, depending upon the alloy. As long as the deformation in steel is below a certain threshhold, you can stress cycle it millions of times without forming cracks and breaking. No matter how small the deformation, aluminum will always form cracks and break given enough stress cycle. In space, there will always be stress cycle arising from the thermal cycle, which can be as frequent as 90 minutes in low earth orbit.", "561" ], [ "It would all depend of the level of technology your world has and how wedded you are to the idea of lifting a wooden ship complete with a hole in the side and useless bowsprit along with all the other heavy junk a sea ship needs to weigh it down so winds don't make it capsize. If so I'd consider making it out of Martian liftwood (Space 1889) with a varnish of <PERSON> Cavorite (First Men In The Moon). Weight vs Buoyancy is the primary issue. However lets assume that your civilization has advanced material science but just never got around to developing internal combustion engines (piston or jet) or lightweight electric motors and fuel cells. The reasons I'll leave up to you. In that case it is definitely possible. Consider the Magesterium airship seen in the movie The Golden Compass. Discard the fantasy 'anbaric' thrusters and the oversized tail fin and you have a basic dirigible/blimp with one important addition. The gas bag filled with lift gas (helium or hydrogen) has a secondary chamber surrounding the front end. See the picture. I would suggest that a secondary liftgas fills this chamber. One that can be adjusted in buoyancy, isn't flammable, and doesn't need the heavy complication of high pressure cylinders and compressors.", "308" ], [ "That liftgas would be steam. Steam has over twice the lifting power of hot air and you will have plenty of it in the engine exhaust. Modern day polyester mylar, teflon and a new recent flexible aerogel would make a lightweight and durable laminate balloon material with good thermal retention properties. As steam condensed it would drain down to a reservoir for return to the boiler. This will eliminate the need for a separate condenser further lightening your airship. Since you are insisting on coal as a fuel I would suggest a fluidized bed combuster with bed of a lightweight refractory sand, possibly alumina. Over it would be a flash boiler similar to that used in the 1910 White Steam Car. The steam engine would be a smaller simpler version of the radial steam turbine used in the 1894 Turbinia steamship. Of course everything would be constructed of lightweight polymers, and aluminum and magnesium alloys. Heavier metals would be used only where absolutely necessary and kept to a minimum. Aerogel would be used for insulation where possible. If you designed it properly I think you could get a pretty respectable performance out of a vehicle like that.", "479" ], [ "Sounds like a system of space planes that operate in the style of the railway system in the early 20th century. Since you said you already had space elevators in place, then you would need a series of space stations that act as rail stations near the elevators. The plane would dock at the station, which gives you quick turnaround time since they never enter an atmosphere. Since everything is in space the space station could be multilevel allowing several planes to dock at once.\nAs far as propulsion, I don't have an exact method, yet, but I know how to meet the \"2 days to Mars at closest approach\" requirement. An engine that is capable of sustaining 1g (Earth normal gravity) of constant acceleration will get a plane from Earth to Mars, assumed 65 million km separation, in 1d 21h 13m 1s. I would love to take credit for figuring that out, but alas, I can't. Check out How fast will 1g get you there? for a really great set of charts, graphs, and travel times. Somebody figured out all the travels times from Earth to each major body in the solar system.", "947" ], [ "That time is for constant acceleration for half the trip, then the ship flips a 180 and does a constant burn for deceleration.\nAnother benefit of constant acceleration is that it provides Earth normal gravity to the passengers and cargo. For more about this see Space Travel Using Constant Acceleration.\nAs I mentioned in the beginning, I would model the entire system around the railway of the early 20th century. Through a series of transfers, a person could travel across the US with little fuss.\nConstant acceleration even works for interstellar travel as well. It would take 1 year + the number of light years to reach any given star. So Alpha Centauri would take 5.2 years since it's 4.2 light years away.\nWhile I'm writing this I thought of a possible propulsion system, an EM Drive or an RF resonant cavity thruster. I know next to nothing about the science of the drive, but my understanding is that it's a \"fuel-less\" drive system. An engine produces an EM field, which it needs to run the lights and whatnot anyway, it diverts a portion of the EM to the propulsion system and it produces thrust. Anyway, it's a thought.", "947" ], [ "There are many social exclusive carnivores here on earth:\n* Lions\n* Hyenas\n* Dolphins\n* Orca Whales\n* Meerkats\n* Wolves\nHumans are also apex predators but NOT exclusive carnivores. With a 98% meat diet, the extinct Neandertal and living Inuit would be the best hominid examples of the types of early social carnivore societies that could evolve into space-faring ones.\nNatural Selection and Technological Innovation\nBoth Neandertal and Inuit life required extreme intelligence to survive harsh environments, predict the behavior and location of very large prey animals (whales and mammoths), develop weapons, tools and strategies to take down large prey, and most importantly, work together like lions to ambush said large prey. We can safely assume that our extraterrestrial predator societies live in a very harsh environment with extreme pressure from natural selection due to climate, prey size, overpopulation, or a combination of these factors.\nThe combination of high intelligence and extreme environments drive natural selection and rapid technological innovation. The Neandertals were likely the first to invent fur clothing, hafted weapons, and levallois technology, while the Inuit are considered the most advanced pure hunter society to have ever existed, with complex toggling harpoons, oil lamps, sleds, boats, kayaks, waterproof clothing, and sunglasses. However, a highly advanced pure predator society could not technically be considered a civilization, as it would lack agriculture or animal husbandry.\nReligion and Morality\nA high-tech hunter society would likely evolve toward agnosticism or a dark version of panentheism, as the general population would maintain a much higher IQ than individuals in an industrial agriculture society who are largely free from the pressures of natural selection. A high-tech, high IQ hunter would recognize the Universe as it is a -- hyper-violent place where we kill and eat everything, bacteria eat us, black holes eat stars and everything else, and plants feast on the ashes.\nThe very act of hunting would probably be considered the highest form of communion with the Universe. \"Morality\" as such would consist mostly of a celebration of life, pleasure and adrenaline. To achieve a mass society, killing relatives would likely be frowned upon, but honor / revenge killings, warfare might be acceptable or even encouraged. Other than incest taboos, a pure hunter society would likely not have many anti-sexual morals -- nudity would be viewed as normal and natural in warm climates or indoors and both males and females would be inclined to have more than one sexual partner. In fact, to build the kind of mass society needed to cooperate on space projects, sex might serve as the primary social lubricant to reduce innate predator aggression, which is precisely what we see in huge dolphin societies that work together en masse to trap fish in \"bubble nets.\"\nSocial Structure\nThe most striking difference between human civilization and a space-faring carnivore society might be the near total lack of the concepts of money, jobs or even employment.", "802" ], [ "There would be no need for it, as the act of getting food (hunting) would be considered the highest \"spiritual act\" and the only accepted way to feed oneself. The crew of a spaceship would likely be an extended family -- parents, children, cousins, aunts and uncles. Survival and celebration of life, rather than profit would be the primary motivating factor for individuals. Pure hunters, especially high-tech ones, would have enormous amounts of \"leisure\" time (a mammoth could feed one person for 8 years). All this down time could be spent mining and processing ore and assembling tools and devices.\nAnother prominent difference would likely be extreme gender equality with a matrilocal residence pattern (daughters stay with mothers throughout life). Although most existing human hunter societies have pronounced gender roles due to a division between hunting and gathering, in a predator society, EVERYONE hunts -- men, women and children. This is seen in all non-human carnivores, somewhat among the Inuit, and is heavily attested to in the skeletal record of the Neandertals -- both males and females bear patterns of healed skeletal fractures indicative of violent but successful encounters with large prey animals.\nPlausible Technologies\nIt takes millions of people and lots of trade to build a single human computer or rocket (all the way from mining ore to making the billions of transistors in a single microchip). It is unlikely that our predator society would take this route -- for one, their technology would likely be more robust, understandable, and repairable (think analog and vacuum tubes). They might use balloons to raise much smaller rockets to the edge of space, then progress under solar sails. However, it is also possible due to their high intelligence, that they might skip the rocket stage of space travel development entirely and discover a form of quantum drive that could send a small ship into space with very little need for mass cooperation in raw material acquisition.", "159" ], [ "Paper.\nSometimes the simplest solution is the most compelling. The oldest surviving printed book is about 1150 years old. If we expand our search to all material printed on flexible organic fibers, we can double that easily -- the oldest papyrus is about 2700 years old. Keep in mind that these have had to survive unpredictable storage conditions and the vagaries of human beings, which your storage cache would presumably not be subject to.\nEngraved or etched metal would probably be better but decidedly more expensive, time-consuming to write to, and bulkier to store. Some sort of metal-paper hybrid might be good to keep the size & weight comparable -- a metal foil, bonded to flexible fibers. The fiber backing would prevent tearing of the thin foil, and the foil would be more resistant to becoming brittle and crumbling.\nBeing able to read your media without obsolescence-prone technology is important. Microfilm is an excellent example of future-proof storage technology. While not a viable enough medium itself to serve as a solution for this problem (silver-halide film \"can last more than 500 years\", but I'd be concerned about radiation exposure, and it requires temperature-controlled storage), all it will ever require to read is a magnifying element of some sort (anything from a fancy collection of electronics to a chunk of clear, shaped crystal) and a bright light. For a real-life case study, the Voyager record is a fascinating & well-known example of attempting to create a media storage object & accompanying instructions for playing it, intended for interpretation by an alien audience.\nWith all the radiation and generally extreme conditions found in space, I'm pretty concerned about the viability of human embryos at these timescales, so I'm going to take this a step further.", "111" ], [ "Let's treat them as data and store them, too!\nNow, it's easy to say that you can just store genomes on paper -- but is it really a workable solution? Assuming we have perfect copies of genomes, they're about 3 billion letters apiece. A very rough experiment (Verdana, 6pt, default margins, \"gatc\" repeated) gives ~13,000 characters per page => 230,000 pages. A typical box of printer paper is 10 reams (5000 sheets) -- so that's 46 boxes of paper for a single genome. Not great. This could of course be shrunk significantly by using an optimal typeface, minimal margins, double-sided printing, possible shorthand for letter pairs, etc. Still, that's a lot of paper, especially since you presumably want to store many embryos. However, there is a workaround! Only about 0.1% of our genome varies between individuals (ignoring rare variants). Thus, you can store a reference genome, and diffs for individuals. That brings us down to 230 pages per person -- only half a ream, even at my original, highly inefficient & inflated calculation.\nTo ensure sequence integrity, the genome could be encoded into binary and parity bits (or other error detection/correction techniques) could be applied to the data prior to printing -- but this would come at the cost of obfuscating the inherent readability of a plaintext genome. It'd certainly use a lot less paper, though.\nHowever you encode it, be sure to number the pages! Or at least stripe the ends of them with a marker, punchcard-style.", "335" ] ]

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[ [ "How can I make the premise of e.g. a short story more real?\nAs far as my motivation in writing goes, I have long been frustrated about historical fiction I’ve read where the main character is basically an American dressed up in a cloak and armor.\nThe Caryatid: A Work of Hysterical Fiction is an intended parody that reverses this habit and is set here and now with a character internally from another century. The humor, besides silly name-dropping of brands, consists in historical misportrayals of today (for instance, an aged fleet of personal transportation drones above new streetcars sparking overhead), and is based on bad historical fiction, and bad history, that I have read.\nHow can I cue the reader to see the intended pretentious narrator bloopers, for instance that the first of two divergent descriptions of an Apple Watch as having “a small, circular face” represent bloopers on the part of an incompetent fictional narrator?\n--UPDATE--\nI am editing the story and it may be very different if you are reading this. For archival purposes, here is the text:\nOct 7, 2020. Anytown, USA. <PERSON> looked at her Apple Watch, a watch with a small, circular face that wore lightly on her wrist. Then, not long after, she looked at her iPhone, totally absorbed as she spent deliberate time on each social network: first Facebook, then Twitter, then Amazon. It was the last that offered the richest social interaction.\nShe put the iPhone in her pocket and walked, slowly, down the same path she walked each day. What time was it? The ninth hour? No, that was long past. She looked in the sky. She walked in the rhythm of the day, as each day, each week, each year was a sacred rhythm and each room its own place: organizing icons by date would never had occurred to people.\nEveryone sat or stood in an odd, contorted position that gave <PERSON> no end of puzzlement. Her octagonal circle of an Apple Watch, whose band was constantly shifting in color, kept her mesmerized. She puzzled that the boys had made such a big deal over seeing a Ford Ferrari; she certainly didn’t believe that a flimsy mask was any reason not to give someone a snuggle.\nShe moved without causing a bird alarm, and was perennially astonished, less that others moved in a way that caused a bird alarm, but that not one head turned when there was a bird alarm. Sometimes she even wondered if the others did not even have a concept of what a bird alarm was.\nThings had certainly gotten more complicated with time.", "624" ], [ "The road had for ages been shared between pedestrian man and horse. Now, decades after automobiles had taken root, it had to be shared between man, horse, and car. Aged drones carried humans across established routes, and new trolleys sparked against wires overhead. At least bikes had their own lane in which to thunder.\nYet she viewed things differently. Her understanding was entirely concrete, or at least dressed in the concrete. It was a capital intellectual day when she heard answered the question, “How many angels can dance on the head of a pin?”, a question which involved whether angels have bodies that exclude the presence of other bodies, or whether multiple angels could be present in the same space—with the consequence that an infinite, and not only a finite, number of angels could dance on the head of a pin. But nobody could understand this. Infidel! How many postmoderns can dunce on a pinhead?\nThe quest of angels was a beautiful image. She lived in a world where the saints were more real than those walking, and in which as a child she had seen her guardian angel. She lived in a world where an icon was a “window of heaven” and an open window at that. And she lived in a world that, though she only attended church a few times per year, a great towering presence hid behind that figure.\nShe had been gathering herbs in a field, and had gone some distance afar, though near a 7-11.\n“How to get home?” she thought. She had gathered a lot.\nThen she reached into her pocket, pulled out her iPhone Pro, pulled up the Uber app, and ordered a shared ride.\n--ADDITIONAL UPDATE--\nI have revised my story as follows:\nFrom <PERSON> to <PERSON>, grace: I send your excellence my manuscript, as revised again, and have returned the Imaginarium. I have tried to envision what life was really like in The Setting, but yet also keep things contemporary. Please send my boots and cloak by my nephew.\nHere is the story:\nOct 8, 2020, Anytown, USA.\n<PERSON> looked at the sky.", "820" ], [ "Poor Things\nPromethean ideas of the cost of scientific ambition have obviously been crowding my brain as of late, so the <PERSON> parallels were immediately exciting. This cautionary tale about the dangers of scientific curiosity would be delivered through a female Creature who, for once, is no one’s bride. Just, perhaps, someone’s daughter, but even that isn’t as clearly cut.\n<PERSON> was labeled a modern <PERSON> because he chose to challenge, by way of scientific ambition, the mandated divine order, just like the titan did when he stole fire from the gods to give it to man. Here, he even goes as far as to have others, including his Creature, affectionally call him “God”, making the matter even more obvious. How, I immediately asked myself, as if all that video essay research made it into an obvious <PERSON>’s gun, is this particular modern <PERSON> going to be punished for his crime of sacrilegious curiosity?\nWhat a pleasure to discover, along with <PERSON> herself, that curiosity, specifically hers, is not to be punished but celebrated. That there is actually as much philosophical and scientific value in the slow but unstoppable uptake of childlike wonder as there is in the more mature ways of exploring existence. That the world as seen by new eyes is terrifying, but also shockingly straightforward.", "660" ], [ "If x, then y. Repeat.\nNeither God created <PERSON>, they merely gave her a body and a brain to work with. Everything going forward was all her doing. To discover oneself is to create oneself.\nAnd as <PERSON> discovered the adult world by touching everything and putting it in her mouth, creating her own world in the process, I thought back to the other reason <PERSON> stole fire from the gods. He wanted to help mankind. Empathy got him punished for eternity. May that not be the case of <PERSON>.", "660" ], [ "Science fiction story about an intelligent man whose mind was uploaded into a computer to solve future problems\nI read this not much more than 10 years ago, but it might be much older.\nThe man was not “super-intelligent”, just someone who, through his faculty of analysis and/or intuition and/or general wisdom, had proven that his advices were usually excellent. When he was in danger of dying, his friends were loath to lose his qualities, and uploaded his mind into a computer, IIRC. He might have been put in suspended animation, but I think rather the computer thing. At some point a crisis happens and they turn the computer on (or revive him?), tell him about the situation, listen to his advice then turn the computer off (or put him back in suspended animation?).\nIt is all that I remember. It might have been the main theme of a rather short fiction, or just one scene (or maybe several similar scenes) in a full novel.\nNow contrary to apparences this is not a duplicate of\nhttps://scifi.stackexchange.com/questions/208248/science-fiction-story-about-an-intelligent-man-put-in-suspended-animation-to-sol\nthough of course it is this question that reminded me of my story. Indeed the latter does not even have an answer accepted by the OP, though it is most probable that <PERSON>’s answer “The Sleeping God” is the correct one there. (So I granted her my bounty before it expired).\nBut it is not my story. The “intelligent man” is human.", "1012" ], [ "While he was still living “normally”, he belonged to the same community as the people who consult him later, the oldest ones knew him personally when they were younger, or at least heard of him first-hand from their parents. He is not “omniscient and omnipotent, of immense size and gigantic capabilities” only a very bright “normal” person.\nAlso there are no “morons” about. Those who consult him are clever, they just realise his advices are sound and want him to add his mind to theirs, in an situation of crisis. So not “The Marching Morons”.\nAlso he is definitely not <PERSON>. His revivals are not prerecorded holograms. The people who ask him for advice actually tell him of the exact details of the current situation for him to evaluate.\nIt is also not “The Swarm”, where the hive-mind is not human, when he is, or at least was. But it might still be some other book in <PERSON> “Shapers/Mechanists” Universe. I feel some, how should I say, “taste” of this universe. But this is just a kind of subliminal feeling that I get, please do not restrict yourself to <PERSON> !", "674" ], [ "Yes With an If, No With a But\nOther answers have suggested that live, fast-growing, barely conscious, human infant clones are not worth doing, because there are better methods which are less ethically fraught, better targeted to the required need, and less wasteful of resources.\nSpeaking practically, however, yes it could be done. But from a story-telling perspective, you might want to explain why it's done this way. You might have to explain that scientific advancement is at this very specific level where they can clone entire humans but [choose to?] not clone individual organs or use donor animals. (I don't know if one is \"easier\" than the other.)\nLet's Do This\nMaybe you could say your society is better at other bio-sciences than genetics. E.g., Maybe the \"clones\" are actually twins, created at the parents' request (or by the State, or by their employer) by splitting the \"original\" zygote into one or more separate zygotes, and one grows normally while the other(s) is harvested and given the \"clone treatment.\" Maybe the fast-growth is done using synthetic hormones instead of gene-manipulation. Maybe the insensitivity to pain and low brain activity is done by lobotomy on the fetus, or chemically induced partial-coma.\nDon't Look Here\nOn the other hand, your audience might not question the premise. E.g., on Star Trek TNG, Lt.", "1008" ], [ "Cmdr. <PERSON> cannot use contractions. He just can not. Trekkies ask why but then just figure \"Oh it's complicated\" and move on (or keep ranting till they die lonely). But if you're going to explore all the dilemmas that arise from your particular type of organ bank, audiences may wonder why we are doing it this way instead of all the other better ways suggested in the other answers.\nBut you might side-step the sci-fi dilemmas by re-directing attention to more legal and philosophical problems. E.g., is the clone property of the patent holder who invented the cloning process? Why would parents or individuals permit clones or even care? Etc.\nBut then we're back to where we've started: what issues are highlighted by these clones, which haven't already been explored by androids, replicants, zombies, sentient AI, and yes, clones? I'm not saying there aren't any such issues, I'm just saying that if you're going to set up a highly specific premise, then it should ideally be for a good specific reason. So, from a story telling perspective, it's hard to tell how practical this would be.", "693" ], [ "[Originally posted on www.therewillbe.games]\nArkham Horror the Card Game by Fantasy Flight Games is the best deck construction/deck building game I have played; no small feat because I find most of the biggest card games in the genre to be completely impenetrable and intimidating. It is also probably the most difficult game to get into that I have, nevertheless, grown to like, presenting a wholly deceptive façade as a light “experience” adventure game when it is actually an exceptionally hardcore product. Arkham Horror LCG a bit like a jewel locked behind multiple layers of elaborate security: security guards, electronic locks, heat sensors, the whole bit. If you can get through the tall walls standing in your way, it has an enormous amount to offer. But getting there is not easy and is, in practice, also staggeringly expensive.\nBy way of setup, Arkham Horror LCG is more of a game engine than a set game. Each scenario asks you to manipulate the basic engine in different ways, but boils down to characters traveling between locations, taking skill checks, fighting, and gathering clues. You handle these challenges using the combination of an investigator of your choice paired with a (usually) thirty card deck composed of the assets, tricks, and skills your investigator will bring to the table. Scenarios are ordered in campaigns, and as campaigns go on you will be adding new cards from whatever sideboard of cards you happen to have.\nThe Wall\nBefore I get to the aspects Arkham Horror LCG excels at, let me talk about the barriers to enjoyment it presents, because from my perspective they are varied and pretty brutal. The game expects you learn a game on the fly, losing feels like shit, the beginner product line is terrible, enjoyment requires huge buy-in, and prospective players should engage community tools to get the most out of the game. All of these criticisms come together into one baseline fact: it is extremely unfun to lose in Arkham Horror LCG with a badly tuned deck, especially on first play of a scenario. Everything else flows from this.\nOn a purely mechanical level, I found Arkham Horror LCG intimidating to play initially because of its structure. Scenarios are all different, and their rules are presented to you across a variety of different kinds of components that describe interlocking mechanisms---act, agenda, encounter, monster, and other special cards all come together to form a lattice that operates the mechanical gimmick of that scenario. But because of this, it is very hard to get a holistic picture of what is actually going to happen and how to execute those instructions on the fly while you play without breaking the rules (or the pace) horribly. My thesis about this game is that it can be a game about learning how to play a new game, which can make it choppy and bewildering on first play. After 40+ plays I still have scenarios that I get one rule on a single card wrong and it ruins the whole scenario.", "728" ], [ "This makes Arkham Horror LCG intimidating except for very experienced gamers.\nIn play, Arkham Horror LCG is a game of ruthless action efficiency. The sort of action efficiency one usually associates with a Knizia or a Pax series entry. Players need to handle the encounter card “bad” they receive every turn---could be an enemy to fight, something restricting your play options, a damaging skill test, or something worse---and also make progress against whatever the scenario goal is, all in the span of three actions. In practice, most of the opposition thrown at you serves to drown your action efficiency. Enemies tie you up in engagements, preventing you from making progress against the goal until they’re dealt with. Clue retrieval is an action sink. Scenario boss enemies often have many turns worth of health, to be confronted while challenges keep piling up from encounter cards. Most importantly, if you are behind the action curve in Arkham Horror LCG, even at its easiest setting, losing feels like having all of your options stolen from you and being slowly strangled while you fall farther and farther behind. In my view, this makes it a terrible adventure game. I am told people especially enjoy no-spoiler first plays of scenarios. I cannot imagine how or why, as coming to grips with challenges you cannot prepare for does not create exciting, dynamic, adventure gambits but rather stifling losses that could not be prepared for. Against the grain, I enjoy Arkham Horror almost exclusively on a mechanical level and consider it a strategy game first and foremost with little appreciation for its narrative or adventure qualities.\nDovetailing with losing sucking is that the core set of Arkham Horror LCG is bad. Getting to a fun product requires immense investment. I quarrel much less with the thin scenario offerings in the core (just three) than the investigator deck possibilities. The player decks provided are poor, unfocused, and they do not feel very empowering to play.", "728" ], [ "A person's growth as a person does not end when they come of age. I am a very different person now (at 53) than I was at 21, to the point that I am abjectly ashamed of my younger self.\nIt is true that when a person comes of age, they no longer have to deal with the struggles of a person who is coming of age. Once you've gotten the girl or guy of your dreams (a common ambition in coming-of-age tales), you no longer need to get her or him; you move on to weightier things, for which the earlier struggles prepare you.\nWe also find (at times) that the steps we took to overcome a difficulty in an earlier stage turn out to be less effective than we had hoped, or—even worse—have compromised our ability to deal with a more important problem later. What seemed at the time to have been a wise and reasonable expedient turns out to be a fatal error, and the hero must learn to stop doing what is easy and start doing what is right.\nIt's difficult for us to appreciate it now, but once upon a time sequels were rare in speculative fiction. Galatic Patrol, the first novel in the acclaimed Lensmen series, ends with <PERSON> decisively beating <PERSON>, the head of a galactic criminal/military empire.", "999" ], [ "It was a surprise to many readers when in the opening chapter of Gray Lensman, we discover that <PERSON> was only a minor flunky in a larger organization. (The <PERSON> series is also an arms race gone mad, but that's another topic.)\nAddendum\nYou can follow up the coming-of-age novel, and take the character's growth and path in a new direction, by constructing a Hero's Journey in which the coming-of-age portion you've already written becomes the mere beginning of the Journey. You can do this even if the first volume is a complete Hero's Journey in its own right, but you have to be very sure that this time, the features and challenges of this journey are different in kind and not merely in degree:\n* If the struggles of the first volume are met by being clever, in the next stage the struggles are such that no humanly-possible degree of cleverness will suffice; instead the Hero must grow in a virtue that is more fundamentally important than cleverness and perhaps is even antithetical to it (such as honesty or humility).\n* The dangers are not merely physical, and the struggle is not limited to the physical realm. The ideas of what constitutes good and evil were accepted without question in the first stage; now they need to be checked. The Hero's being on the right side of the struggle can no longer be taken for granted, but instead is something that has to be held to a real test of truth.\n* Friends become enemies and enemies become friends.", "627" ], [ "How to write the initial robot apocalypse\nI am currently planning a dark-humor story about the robot apocalypse (Mostly inspired by Robopocalypse and other robot uprising works, of course), and for a while, I’ve been struggling with just how the apocalypse itself begins, but now I’m coming to a good conclusion. While I have a good frame for the “before” and “after” parts, it’s the “during” part I’m stumped with.\nI’m not too concerned with reality since it’s a dark-humor story. I want to have a pop culture-esque “robot armies overrunning military” story, but I still want to keep realistic weapons instead of plasma rifles or flying cars or human fun pods.\nThe basic backstory is that in the near future (2030s-40s), people use automated and robotic devices like autonomous cars, smart appliances, and robots in everyday life, which all come from a large tech company called MaxMind. MaxMind’s founder created a benevolent and intelligent AI in his college years, which created schematics for efficient robotic systems, allowing the company to grow exponentially.\nMaxMind’s co-founder uses his colleague’s work in secrecy to create a super-intelligent AI which labels mankind as a threat, and plots to wipe it from the face of the planet. The novel follows the lives of multiple characters both human and robot (more specifically, a line of androids resembling anthropomorphic animals called Anidroids who aren’t affected by the AI’s control) as they witness civilization collapse before their eyes, and try to survive in a world full of evolving killing machines.\nFor how the AI causes civilization to fall, I’ve blocked out this timeline:\nDay -105: The AI is activated, but pretends to be unintelligent.\nDay -100: The AI’s supervisor brings his personal laptop to work; the AI uses it to escape the facility.\nDay -100–-90: The AI spreads a computer virus throughout all automated networks.\nDay -90–0: Isolated incidents of malfunctioning machines begin to happen every few weeks. This is the “Silent Phase,” where the AI remains in the tech grid without drawing mass attention.\nDay 1–5: The true robot uprising begins.", "934" ], [ "While I haven’t decided exactly how it transpires, whether radiating from certain cities of origin, exponentially rising incidents, or happening across the world at once, I do know that what is initially believed to be a cyberattack escalates into mass chaos.\nDay 5–15: Chaos reigns as robots and devices run amok. Local law enforcement struggles to contain both the robot hordes and looters taking advantage of the emergency conditions, meanwhile citizens try to defend themselves in their own home, or leave the city.\nDay 15–30: The military gets involved in the crisis, trying to deter the machine army while protecting civilians. Unfortunately, the military fails, being overrun by the relentless machines. With the collapse of the military, the governments of the world fall as well. Families are separated, cities turn into war zones, and millions of Anidroids are without owners.\nDay 30-ish: The full burnout of civilization as we know it. The “after” part begins.\nI do realize that for a “super-intelligent AI causes end of world scenario” it’d have to be a “day-one-and-done” thing, but I still want to have some sort of transition between the “pre” and “post” apocalypse, rather than do something like “I ducked from the window and didn’t look out until the screaming stopped.”\nI’m asking for advice or suggestions on what would happen on certain days or how the world would respond.\nHowever, I am open to change the initial uprising’s story if necessary. One idea someone gave me was a “voluntary” uprising, where robots are updated, glitch out, decide humans have got to go, and begin to manipulate other robots, which would result in a slow-building war (like the Second Renaissance but without the machine rights stuff), but I still don’t know how I would execute it (like, what characters in areas not yet affected would experience) or how it would build up, and I’d probably have to remove the AI’s character, unless they were adapted into some sort of robot inciter of war.", "934" ], [ "Coup de Torchon\nI haven’t read <PERSON> but just from #BookstoreEmployeeContextClues I know his novels are not this funny. This is an out-and-out comedy, feat.", "905" ], [ "such gags as a falling-through-an-outhouse prank and <PERSON> saying deadpan that her shithead husband drew a stripe down their dog’s back so they could each pet their own half. The way it abruptly sobers up for moments of unwinking, horrific violence— THAT gives off <PERSON> to me. A little lost about the politics re: colonialism (you don’t shift a novel’s setting to French-occupied Senegal without some pointed intent) but generally I thought this was incredible and so so so funny, a miracle of balancing opposite tones (specifically, goofballery and terror).", "905" ] ]

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[ [ "Stomach Parasites in Kitten\nHi so I recently got my first pet, a 3ish month old kitten, and she got tested and has 3 different stomach parasites, Giardia duodenalis, Giardia zoonotic, and cystoisospora spp. The vet gave me 3 liquid medications to give her, panacur, albon, and metronidazole. She gave me a plan to give my kitten Shade doses of each medication every day in her food for a month but I was wondering will the medication by itself definitely take care of the parasites, cuz I read online that for Giardia you gotta constantly clean the litter box with disinfectant and every single surface the cat is exposed to, change sheets constantly and also regularly bathe the cat or she’ll easily just get infected again. Is that really necessary or will <PERSON> be fine with just the medication?\nThank you for reading all that if you did and if it’s important <PERSON> never actually showed any symptoms of the parasites, no diarrhea or vomiting, and she’s also a single pet.", "664" ], [ "Sick Kitten? ADVICE/HELP\nI’ve been fostering a litter of kittens i’ve noticed that 3 of the 8 kittens i’ve had have been in a funk. the two other females have seemed to snap out of it and are playing, eating, using the restroom like normal again before this when they were in their funk they would just sleep most of the day but didn’t take it to seriously. But, again the third kitten a male is having more or less the same symptoms. He’s usually very playful and hasn’t been for the past 2/3 days. He’s been sleeping mostly all day. He’s walking around pretty slowly. He’s eating and drinking water and using the restroom on his own but sometimes i’ll have to put him to the litter box, water bowl or food (sometimes he goes in his own). The mama cat has been an outside cat and my first thought was maybe they have worms. I went to my local feed store and got a dewormer pill that has pretty great reviews. The mom ended up vomiting about 4 hours after administration and I believe I saw worms that looked like spaghetti but also (TMI) some that looked like fettuccine noodles.", "311" ], [ "She’s mo in quarantine.\nAll 8 of the kittens have all gotten the deworming pill and all are normal and active. However, This one male kitten (12 weeks old) is just not his normal self. He’s very mopey. He’s alert, eating, drinking and using the litter box but just not himself and it’s worrying me. The first day I noticed he was sick i took his temperature and it read almost 104 but he hasn’t had a fever these past two days.\nI noticed today that his poo came out in little nuggets but then one normal log that was semi solid but not runny or diarrhea like. He’s breathing normally, no eye discharge, nose discharge anything like that. Is there any advice on what I can do? Or what it could possibly be? Is it the worms? and if he was given a dewormer will he be okay but just need a few days for them to pass? (I gave them the dewormer less than 48 hours ago). I’ve also checked his gums they appear fine. I did the pinch test to see if he was dehydrated and he doesn’t seem to be. I just don’t know what’s wrong or what could be wrong.\nI realistically don’t have the financial means to take him to a vet to run all these types of test and i figure if i can maybe pinpoint these symptoms to something it’ll save me money from having to go in there without any real idea of what’s going on.\nPlease anything helps!", "664" ], [ "Found stray kitten at work\nAs the title says, I found a stray kitten at my job Saterday, May 13th, and took it home. However, I already have 2 pets, and this kitten has a rather sick eye. I already gave her a bath both in dawn for flee removal and any other mites that I may not have been able to see and washed her in baby shampoo. I have cleaned out her ears, and I am trying to keep her eye clean as much as possible. It seems the tear duct is swollen and produces a lot of water. She is also fed with water and roughly around 3 to 6 weeks old. My dog is curious while my cat, who is 10 months old, wants absolutely nothing to do with the kitten.", "664" ], [ "Because of the odd relationship cycle between the animals and financial standings, we do not plan on keeping the baby and am only fostering until her eye gets better. She also has not shown signs of using the bathroom. Any advice?\nUpdate: she has started using the bathroom, but the eye is still sick, still trying to keep it clean as much as possible. I have called multiple local pet clinics, and only 1 was able to give me a full estimate of the price of antibiotics and possible treatment. The highest would be anywhere to 95$ to over 100$. My husband and I have decided to name her tŭdy. Would really like any advice.", "881" ], [ "My kitten got fleas help! :(\nHi, I have a kitten that's 5 and a half months old now. I noticed a flea in my bedroom where she stays with me all the time and I combed her out and saw flea dirt :( so I went to the vet to get some topical flea treatment. I put one dose on her and will continue to be putting it on her monthly.", "664" ], [ "My room is all carpet and I've been vacuuming as much as I could with my full time job I'm exhausted. I want to call pest control bc that would be my last resort. I also bought some food grade diemtoeous earth but don't know the best way to use it. Any times from anyone?", "502" ], [ "My cat is sick\nHey any vet here?? Or any pet parent with a Persian cat with some experience regarding this!\nI have a 15 month old punch face Persian cat. In my home country, we don’t have very experienced vets with good technology. I mean we don’t even have ultrasounds for cats here apparently. So some days she drools and becomes lethargic and won’t eat. And some days she is fine and eats normally.", "961" ], [ "Today she’s been drooling a lot and has refused to eat or drink anything. Hee lab work up showed mildly elevated ALTand AST but they’ve both improved from a few months ago. Idk what to do. I feel helpless and we can’t diagnose her at all. She’s not even sleeping today.", "664" ], [ "I can’t get this kitten to pee or poop.\nI have this kitten that was abandoned. He’s no more then 2 weeks old, and in the 36 hours I’ve had him he hasn’t pooped or peed once. (If you want a little more context on this I made a post about it yesterday, you can find it in my profile.) But he hardly drank any KMR milk yesterday, he’s drank some more today, and has been ok for the most part, but I can’t get him to poop or pee. I’ve tried all the tricks people say, rub his lower belly with a warm towel to simulate the mother licking him but nothing comes out. Is it just that he’s not getting enough milk in him? Is he constipated? I have no idea how to take care of a kitten this young, I’ve been stressing all day, and no, the vet is closed, no vets on call, no nothing.", "833" ], [ "I live in a rural area and it’s thanksgiving weekend in my country. It’s currently about 9:00 Sunday night, and I won’t be able to get him to a vet by Tuesday morning. When I do try and make him go to the bathroom he feels panicked, and starts meowing like crazy. Is there any tricks I can use to get him to go to the bathroom. Cause the standard ones aren’t working.", "833" ], [ "Kitten won’t stop peeing everywhere\nHello, any help would be greatly appreciated. I got my kitten (10 months old) when he was 2 months old. He used to pee around the house every couple of weeks, now almost every day, 9/10 times when I’m asleep. However, he poops in the litter box.", "311" ], [ "The vet tested his pee and found that he had a bacterial infection. We gave him the medicine, and he should have been responding to it by now, but he hasn’t. The vet recommended a diffuser to calm him down. But it’s a hundred dollars, and I’m not sure if it will work. What should I do?", "833" ], [ "My cat drools a lot\nHey I have a punch faced Persian, she’s around 17 months old. For the past couple of months we’ve noticed that she’s been drooling every 3rd/4th day. Sometimes she won’t drool at all for a week or two but it always comes back.", "664" ], [ "She also sometimes doesn’t eat much (although she’s always been a picky eater). I have a younger cat that’s around 5 months old and she’s sooo playful but the older one doesn’t even play with her. My sister thinks that her breathing rate is always on the faster side too. Any help would be appreciated, I’m desperate to find out what’s wrong with my baby!!! Thank you in advance!!", "664" ] ]

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[ [ "Fallen\nHorror Harvest 2023\nThought this was kind of mediocre when I saw it in the theater back in the day... and I still kind of do, but in the best way possible.\nIt's more engaging than I remember and <PERSON> (as always is really great). I always forget how good <PERSON> is even outside of his <PERSON> performance in Lebowski.\nThe premise here is a little corny and probably easy to nitpick and pull apart but it makes for great suspense and atmosphere. Sort of one of those \"what would I do in this situation\" type of movies.\nAlso it really nails the ending.\nHorror Harvest 2022\nHorror Harvest 2021\nHorror Harvest 2020\nHorror Harvest 2019\nHorror Harvest 2018", "241" ], [ "The Twilight Saga: Breaking Dawn – Part 1\nHorror Harvest 2023\nGood lord these movies are terrible. I'd rather sit through all the Transformers movies back to back than watch these again.\nThe pregnancy angle is somewhat interesting I suppose, but is mostly supplanted by the ridiculous fighting between then Vamps and the Wolves.", "241" ], [ "I don't even fully understand what the beef is there or which wolf is who. It's non-sensical.\nAlso <PERSON> showed up in this one for about 3 minutes and she was really angry about someone killing someone. I have no idea what she's talking about.\nHorror Harvest 2022\nHorror Harvest 2021\nHorror Harvest 2020\nHorror Harvest 2019\nHorror Harvest 2018", "295" ], [ "Violent Night\nMade by the people who brought you <PERSON>, and to be honest, I might like this better.\nOf course they are going to make <PERSON> a Viking warrior.\nThere are some great bits in this movie that only work in a Christmas movie and I'm all for it.\nThe Home Alone redux was fantastic and was probably part of the pitch because it was a highlight.\nThe shed fight was great, as well as the final battle and that fantastic magic move at the end.\nThis had me smiling a majority of the time.", "995" ], [ "Spiral: From the Book of Saw\nYou don't realize how important <PERSON> is to this franchise until he's no longer there. Having a few people be like \"hey this is kind of like those <PERSON> murders\" does not make this Saw IX, despite whatever Lionsgate wants us to think.\nThe biggest advantage to this movie is that the cast has <PERSON> and <PERSON> playing up their existence in the Saw universe.", "190" ], [ "But <PERSON> is kinda terrible in this? Like I'm shocked at how unsuited he is for this role. And that's not good! At least when its <PERSON> being a bad actor, it's campy. This is just <PERSON> doing bits while people constantly die around him.\nSaw Count: 1\n-- <PERSON> holds up a saw at one point and looks at it like it's a foreign object.\nSpiral Count: <PERSON> I didn't do that.", "698" ], [ "Sliding Doors\nIt’s the year 2002 and <PERSON> is riding the tail end of her peak. Newly released DVD Shallow Hal is out of stock at the local blockbuster so a 10 year old me is tasked with choosing between <PERSON>’s Shakespeare in Love and this. I chose <PERSON> in love then so now because there’s no alternate timeline I finally decided to see if I missed anything. Turns out I didn’t.", "378" ], [ "Watch Right Now Wrong Then for a much better example of this concept done well\nStray Observations\n- The ending(s) are awful. Like soap opera awful\n- the soundtrack slaps including <PERSON>’s Thank You over the credits\n- the main love interest’s one line is to make the same Monty Python reference and somehow it works every time. (?!?!)\n- <PERSON>’s hair in this is fantastic and so 90s. Her British accent though? Not so fantastic.", "952" ], [ "Pet Sematary: Bloodlines\nMe half the movie: 1969.... does proximity to the sour earth make you Tatooine age? Oh yeah. This is a prequel to the 2019 version <PERSON> <PERSON>, not the 1989 <PERSON> version.\nEither way, doesn't that make <PERSON> the villain, in that case? Knowing full well that his family along with the other 4 are guardians, in no way shape or form should he suggest to bury <PERSON> the Cat unless his mind was poisoned from the years of proximity.\nIDK, I like this on its own right, but it makes for a lousy retcon.\nWatched As Part Of My 2023 Wrap-Up Challenge: Dave Round 10", "672" ], [ "<PERSON> Matilda the Musical\n\"Even if you're little you can do a lot!\"\nYeah this was pretty great! Definitely one of the better movie musicals.\nI saw the stage version this summer and I can say it's a pretty close adaptation. There are a couple of things that got cut and I have to say it streamlines the story a bit more, but does remove a lot from the parents.\nStill not quite sure about the escapologist subplot, which also in the stage musical didn't make much sense to me.\nBut the cast is great, especially <PERSON> as Mrs. <PERSON> who was phenomenal.\nI had my doubts about <PERSON> playing Mrs. <PERSON>, since it looked like she was playing the character not as over the top as on stage.", "217" ], [ "But it works in the movie, it really works. She owns every scene she's in. She's a real menacing presence throughout.\nThis was a perfect holiday treat. Definitely gonna rewatch it again.\nAlso Revolting Children is like drugs, what an epic song.", "583" ], [ "From Dusk Till Dawn\nOkay, so I had seen very small segments of this when I was a kid, but totally forgot that it was a vampire movie. I threw it on based on name value and because I’ve been doing <PERSON> films lately.\nThat turn an hour in where it becomes a full-blown horror movie after showing all but zero hints of it is MASTERFUL. The only movie I can think of with an as-jarring transition (not a bad jarring) is Sorry To Bother You.\nI feel incredibly lucky that my terrible memory expunged the fact that it was a horror movie and I was able to go into this as blind as possible 23 years after release. Great stuff.", "645" ] ]

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[ [ "Read the full review with pictures on our blog: https://hesaidshesaidgames.com/2017/10/09/game-review-photos...\nIn a small forest, several varieties of trees compete to grow and spread their seeds. As trees grow, leaves that are exposed to the sun and cast shadows on smaller trees around it. Over time, the larger trees will reach the end of their life cycle, falling to create room for new trees to grow in the small forest.\nDesigner: <PERSON>\nArtist: <PERSON>\nPublisher: Blue Orange Games\nGenre: Area Control, Abstract\nPlayers: 2-4\nPlay Time: 30-60 Minutes\nNumber of Logged Plays: 4\nGame Overview\nIn Photosynthesis, players will be controlling a species of tree growing in a small forest. Players will try to position their trees in the forest to gather the most sunlight, even if that means blocking opponents’ trees from gathering precious sunlight. Sunlight will be turned into light points that can be used to get more trees, seeds, spread seeds, and grow trees.\nLight points will vary quite a bit as the sun rotates around the board, so players will have to decide when is the best time to do certain actions. The goal of the game is to get the most amount of victory points, which can be gained by putting a tree through its full life cycle. After three full rotations of the sun around the board, the game will end and the player with the most points is the winner.\nGame Play\nPhotosynthesis starts with sun segment being placed on the sun symbol on the board and players taking turns placing a small tree on any open space on the outer ring of the board. The remaining two seeds, two small trees, and one medium tree are placed in the player’s available for use area in front of them. The game is now ready to begin. Each round in Photosynthesis takes place over two phases:\nPhotosynthesis Phase\nThe player with the first player token will move the sun to the next position in a clockwise direction. (This step is skipped in the first round).\nEach player then gains light points for any trees that aren’t in the shadow of another tree (Only a maximum of 20 Light Points can be stored).\n- Small Trees = 1 Light Point\n- Medium Trees = 2 Light Points\n- Large Trees = 3 Light Points\nLife Cycle Phase\nDuring this phase, players will spend their light points to perform actions starting with the first player. The number of light points required by each action is listed on the player board.", "581" ], [ "The possible actions a player can take are below:\nBuying – Buy trees and plants off of their player board and put them into their available for use area in front of them.\nPlanting a Seed – Plant a seed from their available area onto the board from an existing tree. The distance a seed can be placed away from a tree is based on what size it is:\n- Small Tree – 1 space away\n- Medium Tree – 2 spaces away\n- Large Tree – 3 spaces away\nGrowing A Tree – Grow a seed into a tree or grow a tree to the next size up. Only trees from a player’s available area can be used to grow seeds and trees. When a tree is grown to the next level, the smaller version of that tree is returned back to the player board to the topmost spot of the corresponding column. If there are no available spaces for it, then it is removed from the game (this will be the case for the starting seeds and trees players begin the game with).\nCollecting – Once a tree is at it’s largest size, it can be collected for points. The large tree will be removed from the board and placed back on the player’s board (topmost open spot of the corresponding column) and the player will take a scoring token with the same symbol that the Large Tree was growing on.\nPlayers can perform any of those actions as many times as they want as long as they have the light points to pay for it. The only thing players need to keep in mind is that a space on the board can only be activated once per turn. So if you plant a seed, the tree the seed came from and the space the seed is planted on would both be activated for the round. The tree wouldn’t be able to be grown this turn to the next level because that would require activating the space again. This also prevents growing the same tree twice in one round as well.\nOnce the sun has gone around the board three times (18 rounds), the game is over. Players will add the points up they receive from the score tokens and will also get points for every three unused light points. The player with the most points is the winner!\nAdvanced Variant\nThe advanced variant adds one more sun rotation to the game which extends the game out to 24 rounds.", "597" ], [ "La Citta (Kosmos – 2000) is an area influence/city building game where players try and build the most impressive cities in order to cause mass emigration from their opponent’s cities to their own. There is a definite conquest element to the game, but there is absolutely no fighting, it is all done by influence.\nLa Citta is an excellent game. It is a game where there are more things available to do than you CAN do, which I always enjoy in a game. The scoring tends to be tight and although people could slow the game down by calculating everyone’s score each round, the game moves pretty quickly for a game of this weight. I am generally not a big fan of games with a set number of turns, but this game is done well so I don’t feel cheated by the artificial time limit.\nThe game begins by setting up the board. This is done in two different ways. There is a basic setup where the land is distributed evenly about the board, or the advanced method where the terrain is laid out randomly. The board consists of several paths of hexes of 3 different colors. Depending on the amount of players, certain colored paths are not used (the ones on the outmost edges). The paths surround triangular areas where terrain is placed. The terrain is laid out in 1 per section. The terrain can either be Farmland with 1 to 3 Food Icons on it, Mountains, or Water. The deck of the Voice of the People cards are shuffled and placed next to one side of the board, and the Political Cards are shuffled and placed next to the other side. The grey plastic Citizens are placed so that players may have access to them during the game as a pool. Each player then chooses a color and takes the 4 Castle Tokens of their color, the 4 Citizens of their color, and the 3 Action Cards of their color. A player order is determined. If playing with the basic setup, the starting locations of their starting 2 castles are predetermined. If playing with the Advanced Rules, things change. Beginning with the first player, each player places one of their castles. They may place it anywhere on an open hex on one of the paths in play. 3 grey Citizens are placed on the Castle. No Castle may be placed within 3 hexes of another Castle.", "349" ], [ "After everyone has placed a Castle, the last player to play places their second Castle and so on in anti-clockwise format. If a Castle is placed next to a Farmland tile, the number of Food Icons on it determines how many Food Tokens are received by the player who owns the adjacent Castles. If a Castle is adjacent to more than one Farmland, the total of all the Food Icons is received in Food Tokens. Food Tokens are placed in front of the Player. Each player receives 1 Gold. The player to the left of the player who placed the last Castle is now the Starting Player.\nThe game consists of several phases. These phases are:\n1) Change Start Player: The first turn this phase is ignored, after than the previous starting player hands the Start Player Token to the player on their left who becomes the new start player.\n2) Voice of the People: 4 cards are taken from the top of the deck of 27 Voice of the People cards. The first card is turned over while the other 3 cards are laid face down. The Voice of the People deck consists of 9 cards each of “Education” (black), “Health”, blue, and “Culture” (white). These determine which buildings are going to be influential this game turn. The people’s desires change each turn. After the sixth turn the game ends, so 3 cards will not be in play.\n3)Income: Beginning with the start player, each player receives 1 Gold per Quarry they have built next to a Mountain Territory. If their Quarry is adjacent to more than one Mountain, a Gold is received for each adjacent Mountain.\n4)Population Increase: Beginning with the start player, each player places one grey Citizen in each of their cities. If a city has 5 Citizens already and no Marketplace, no new Citizen is placed. If a player has 8 Citizens already and a Marketplace, but no Fountain or Bathhouse, no new Citizen is placed. There are no more limits after that.\n5)Political Rounds: In turn order, each player takes a Political Round. This continues until 5 Political Rounds have been completed by each player. The top seven cards of the Political Card deck are turned over and placed by the deck. After the first round, the cards will already be laid out. Each player may do 1 of 2 actions during their Political Round:\nPlay an Action Card: Each player has 3 Action Cards in their player color. They may play one of these by turning it over. An Action Card may be used to:\nGain Gold: The player receives 2 Gold from the bank.", "84" ], [ "I first discovered this game in November of 2012 and thoroughly enjoyed my first play. However, when I tried to buy the game, I had a hard time figuring out which edition I wanted. The three main editions had different rules, and determining which rules went with each edition was very confusing. Also contributing to the confusion is that there are a number of variants that people play with, and people will mix and match rules from the different versions. People also consistently respond to questions about one edition of the game with rules from another edition! In an effort to clear a few things up for current players, and to help others gamers interested in Shark, I decided to write a review which will:\n1) Give a pictorial description of the gameplay\n2) Compare the different versions of the game\n3) Share common variants\n4) Provide thoughts and comments on all the above.\nThis is a LONG article, so I've used headers to try and make stuff easier to find. I'm sure I'll get something incorrect in this review, so just let me know in the comments below and I'll change it.\nGameplay Description\nShark was released in 1987 and actually received a Spiel des Jahres Recommendation. For the curious, Auf Achsewon the award that year. Flying Turtle Gameswas the original publisher and printed the game in Dutch, English, French, and German. This became known as the Flying Turtle Edition, or FT for short. Images of the box and game board are shown below.\n(image courtesy of EJKemp)\n(image courtesy of BoardGameGeek)\nYes, that is a picture of the official board, it is not a homemade copy. If people complain about the art in the game, they are probably referencing this edition.\nThe game is a stock trading game consisting of four companies represented by the colors yellow, blue, red, and green. The stocks are actually seen on the game board in the second picture, and consist of 1's and 5's.", "386" ], [ "Players will put markers in the grid boxes numbered 1-6 to determine the value of each company's stock, and value of each stock is kept track in the grid with the numbers 1-15 next to it. The fact that it is a stock game with players placing markers on a grid to determine stock values sounds similar to the classic , but the similarities end there.\nTurn Overview\nOn a turn, a player can take 4 actions; 2 of them are mandatory:\n1) At the start of their turn, a player can buy up to 5 shares of any color combination from the bank and sell an unlimited number of shares to the bank.\n2) The player then must roll two dice, a standard die numbered 1-6 and a second die containing a yellow side, blue side, red side, and green side. These correspond to the colors of the companies. There are also two white sides on the dice.\n3) The player must then place a marker on a space based on the dice rolled. The numbered die tells the player which numbered section of the board the marker must be placed (1-6) and the colored die determines which color marker must be played in the numbered section. The two white sides allow a player to choose a color of their choice in the required section.\n4) At the end of their turn, the player can buy and sell more stock, but the 5 share buying limit is over the entire turn.\nAfter buying and selling is complete, the turn is over, and the next player begins. The game ends whenever any color runs out of markers, or any company's stock reaches a value of 15. It needs to be said that the FT edition says there are 20 markers of each color when there are actually only 18.\nDetermining Stock Value\nThe stock value of any company is the sum of the the total number of markers in groups of two or more. Markers that do not touch another marker of their own color do not contribute to the stock value of the company. There are two exceptions to the rule:\n1) If there are no groups of 2 or more on the board, the stock value of a given company is 1, regardless of how many pieces are on the board.\n2) Groups of 7 or more only count as 7 for the stock value. (aka: The Rule of Seven)\nI'll repost the second picture below to give an example.\n(image courtesy of BoardGameGeek)\nGreen: There are four groups of green on the board, a group of 6, a group of 2, and two individual markers. 6+2=8, and the two individual markers do not add to the stock value. Green stock = 8\nRed: There are two groups of red on the board, a group of 3, and an individual marker.", "597" ], [ "For the review with pictures check out our blog at https://hesaidshesaidgames.wordpress.com/2017/01/11/game-rev...\nWhat do youthful versions of gods do for fun? They compete against each other to see who’s the best at guiding civilians at constructing a city in the Aegean Sea, of course! The young gods had so much fun doing this, they decided to turn it into a competitive game. The name of this game is <PERSON>, and just as swiftly as the city was built up, it was smashed by Ares for a new set of gods to compete against each other. Can inspire your workers to build smarter and quicker than anyone else?\nDesigner: Dr. <PERSON>\nPublisher: Roxley Games\nGenre: Abstract, Grid Movement, Variable Player Powers\nPlayers: 2-4\nPlay Time: 10-20 minutes\nNumber of Logged Plays: 15\nGame Overview\nIn Santorini, players each become a Greek God as they aid the island’s citizens in building their city. Both help in building the city, but only the god who claims the highest spot in the city is declared the winner. Each god is given a team of two workers to represent them in the construction of the city. Workers will be given special abilities by their god to aid them in building the city quicker, such as the strength to construct multiple building in one turn, enhancing endurance to move across the city quicker, or even the ability to strike down opposing workers. Can you outwit your fellow gods as you guide one of your workers to be the first to reach the highest point in Santorini?\nGame Play\nIn Santorini, players get a team of two workers that can be placed anywhere on the map at the beginning of the game. On a player’s turn, they can move one of their workers to any adjacent space and then must build a level of a tower on any adjacent space(including diagonally). There are some restrictions to a worker’s movement:\n-Cannot move into a space that has another worker on it\n-Cannot move up more than one level in a single movement\n-Can move down any number of levels in a single movement\nThe restrictions for the build step are:\n-Every building must go in sequential order (1->2->3->dome)\n-Workers can construct a building level on any unoccupied adjacent space\n-If a tower has a dome, it is considered a complete tower\nPlayers will continue these steps until a worker is able to move up to the third level of a tower. The game will also end if a player is unable to move and build on their turn. The first player to move one of their workers to the top of a level three tower is the winner!\nGods Variant\nIt’s recommended to play a game or two without any God Powers to gain an understanding of how the game works.", "470" ], [ "God Powers will modify the game rules for each player, depending on which god they get. There are two levels of gods in the game – simple and advanced. The simple gods tweak the rules a little bit and are a good starting spot when playing the first couple of times. The advanced gods change the game quite a bit, and like the name suggests, are probably better suited for someone who has played the game a few times. In a two player game, all gods can be played, but there are certain match ups that are “banned” due to how their powers can counteract each other. These banned match ups are all indicated in the rule book and on the god cards as well.\nThree & Four Player games\nSantorini can be played with three or four players with the one exception being that only gods with the three or four player icon on them can be used in the game. The four player game plays a little differently with players pairing off in teams and each player having their own individual god. Players are only allowed to use their own god power and the team with the first worker to move onto a level three building wins.\nGolden Fleece & Heroes\nThe Golden Fleece expansion, that comes with the Kickstarter version of the game, adds another variant, new gods, and “Hero” cards to the mix. In the golden fleece variant, the starting player will place the golden fleece statue on any space on the board. There will then only be one god card (with the golden fleece icon) placed off to the side of the board. During the game, if players have a worker next to the golden fleece statue, they have access to the god power. If they stray too far away from the statue with both of their workers, they’ll lose the assistance of that god power.", "937" ], [ "You must use anything you can find to keep your fire blazing in the cooperative survival game The Coldest Night, in order to survive. Indie Boards & Cards is the publisher of the game, which was created by <PERSON>.\nPlaying the game The Coldest Night\nPlaying Kindling cards into the fire pit array in The Coldest Night requires teamwork if you want the fire to stay lit. Since you don't always hold the best cards, you must devise strategies for keeping the fire going without suffering severe frostbite.\nBeginning the Coldest Night, every single Kindling card includes an ash and a heat component. Once a card is played, it is set down in the fire pit to the left of the other cards and must possess an ash value identical to or below the sum of the heat values of the remaining cards in the fire. There can never be more than four cards in the fire pit, but you can play numerous cards during one round. The sole alternative is to scavenge, which enables you to draw three extra Kindling cards and give each card to a teammate or yourself if you are unable or unable to play a card.\nIn the game itself, interpersonal interaction is restricted. You cannot discuss the precise values of the cards you have, but you may discuss the possibility that a hotter fire may or may not be required.\nThe eldest Kindling card, which is the card that is furthest to the right in the fire pit, is thrown away after each card has been played or scavenged, and you then check for frostbite. When there are less than three cards in the fire pit, you will be dealt a Frostbite card.", "67" ], [ "This card will place some kind of limitation on you till it is eliminated or treated; this will happen if the entire heat value of the cards in the fire pit is precisely the same as the number on the Frostbite card at the start of a subsequent round. The next player then has their turn after you draw one new Kindling card.\nCards for kindling can have unique effects. The Boon cards might provide you more choices when taking cards out of the fire pit at the end of your turn or let you acquire new ability tokens. The Obstacle cards might make you take numerous cards out of the fire pit at the end of your turn or compel you to take the most effective cards out of the fire pit. There are additionally three cards in the deck called The Fire Dwindles that, once obtained, are instantly played to the fire pit but lack the ability to heat the fire up (but do slow you down).\nIf you are able to play each of the Kindling card to the fire pit, you win the game. In the event that there aren't any cards in the fire pit or if you're required to draw a Frostbite card but there are none left in the deck, you lose.\nPros\nThe Coldest Night is a 20 minute co-op game with a survival theme, frostbite cards, and Obstacle cards. Players have to hold onto cards for extra heat, play Obstacle cards to win, and scavenge for items to burn at the risk of getting frostbite. The Frostbite cards have a good mix of negative effects and look great, and the game is consistently 20 minutes long.\nCons\nWith the identical cards in every game, The Coldest Night is a filler game, but after four or five games, it loses its surprise factor and appeal as a replayable game. Because of the restrictions on communication, it seems as though the game is being pushed to be a little harder and avoid the quarterbacking/alpha player problem.", "755" ], [ "This Cooperative strategy board game The Captain is Dead, was created by <PERSON> and <PERSON> and released by AEG (2017 version).\nYour squad and you will be frantically running about your ship in The Captain is Dead trying to hold the aliens off while you repair the ship's engines (Jump Core).\nGameplay for The Captain is Dead\nEvery player receives one of the numerous characters in The Captain is Dead before they begin the game. Each character's card lists their maximum hand size, number of actions they may do (the majority having four), skill discounts, and unique skills. Each of the characters specializes in a certain section of the ship, while several of them have skills that may be used in other systems as well. You're basically set to play once you've placed your character standee in their beginning quarters.\nBefore the game starts, causing the first mayhem, and after each player takes a turn, alert cards will be selected. These playing cards stand in for the hostile aliens attacking your ship. They may send spacecraft that speed up the pace at which your ship is struck, they may damage or destroy systems, or they could even deliver some aliens aboard the ship.\nIn the course of the game, you and your squad will move from room to room. You will be employing those technologies in a variety of ways in addition to attempting to mend what the aliens have broken. For instance, the Computers let you draw the skill cards you'll need to mend the Jump Core, conduct scientific research, fix systems, and discharge missiles.\nYou cannot simply concentrate only on getting the orange Engineering cards that are required to repair the Jump Core which are the hardest to obtain. Therefore, the ship's shield will need to be maintained at a healthy level, and you'll need to keep at least part of the systems operational to increase your turn efficiency.\nThe Comm System and the Teleporter are the two systems that you should definitely try to maintain online the whole game. You can pass skill cards to other players through the Comm System even if you're not in the same room as them. You can go to any room on the ship with only one action when the teleporter is operational. My team repeatedly made the error of leaving one or both of these systems unavailable, which cost us dearly.\nThe Captain is Dead offers three ways to lose: 1. A card instructs you to add more when all the aliens board the ship.", "697" ], [ "2. The spacecraft is hit one final time as the shields fail. 3. The alert deck is depleted.\nThere is just one possible outcome, as you would have anticipated. You must thoroughly fix the Jump Core before leaving the area.\nThe ship mechanisms are what distinguish The Captain is Dead from Pandemic and other games of a similar nature. Every one of them grants the entire team a unique special skill, and when they go, the game drastically alters. Additionally, the techniques assist absolutely everyone in getting into the theme!\nPros.\nThere are 18 distinct character options available. Since each character feels quite different and you have to plan your strategy based on the ones you receive, this definitely increases the enjoyment and replay value.\nThe Captain is Dead is challenging in a good way. Even if you are aware that many of the games you played might have been won, it is difficult to solve the problem since each game will continue to play differently.\nEven though not everyone may like the blocky art, I believe it's extremely amazing. It appropriately forewarns you that the game you're about to play will be silly and have a retro Sci-Fi vibe.\nAfter getting acquainted to the fantastic cooperative gateway games that are available, this is the ideal \"next step\" board game. Since many players don't want to tackle medium or heavyweight games right away after playing one or two of the well-liked gateway games, it gives the Pandemic model a tiny bit more complexity, which is good.\nCons.\nUnfortunately, quarterbacking is possible in this game. Although it's not required, one player could try to take control by instructing the other players how to play their turns.\nI worry that the plastic standees will become all scuffed up sooner rather than later, even if they do look fantastic. I'm not 100% certain of that yet, but even simply moving the box around or removing them from their sacks might do damage.\nIf you want to play with two people and don't want to control more than one character, I do not suggest this game. With only two characters on the board, you have very few skill discounts, making it very challenging to maintain the systems and fix the Jump Core.", "403" ], [ "Ticket to Ride is a popular board game designed by <PERSON> and published by Days of Wonder. The game is set in the early 1900s and players take on the role of railway tycoons, competing to build the most extensive rail network across North America.\nThe game board is a map of North America, with cities and routes connecting them. Each player has a set of colored train pieces and a set of train cards representing different types of train cars. Players use these cards to claim routes between cities, earning points for each route claimed.\nAdditionally, a set of destination tickets are distributed to each player at the start of the game. The completion of these tickets, which represent specific routes between cities, awards players with extra points at the conclusion of the game. However, if a player doesn't finish a destination ticket, they lose points.\nIn the strategy game Ticket to Ride, players must strike a balance between the requirement to finish their destination tickets and their ambition to claim routes. The game can be played with two to five people and lasts normally between thirty and sixty minutes. Since its first release in 2004, it has garnered a great deal of praise and received a number of accolades. It is regarded as a modern board game classic.\nGame strategy\nThere are several strategies that players can use to increase their chances of winning Ticket to Ride:\nPay attention to finishing destination tickets: In Ticket to Ride, finishing destination tickets is a crucial part of earning points. Players are handed destination tickets at the beginning of the game that detail precise routes between cities.", "937" ], [ "As they provide bonus points at the end of the game, pay attention to completing these tickets by taking the routes indicated on them.\nBlock your rivals: In the competitive game of Ticket to Ride, blocking your rivals might be a successful tactic. Consider claiming a route yourself if you notice an opponent is attempting it in order to keep them from gaining points.\nCreate a lengthy, continuous path: A long, continuous route can be quite valuable, especially if it crosses several different board regions. Early on in the game, try to construct a lengthy route because doing so later on can be challenging.\nA player must have a set of train cards that match the colour and quantity of train cars on the route in order to claim a route between cities. Having a large collection of railway cards can provide you more alternatives for claiming routes while also making it more difficult for your rivals to claim the routes they require.\nKeep track on how your rivals are doing: Pay attention to the routes that your rivals are claiming and the tickets that they have for the destinations. By knowing what routes are most likely to be contested, you will be better able to block their paths.\nGame aesthetics\nThe unusual and appealing look of Ticket to Ride contributes to the overall enjoyment of the game. The game board features a map of North America along with vivid depictions of towns, train lines, and geographical features like mountains and rivers. The train cards and parts are also well coloured and vivid.\nThe game is simple to understand and play thanks to its intuitive design. It's crucial for a game where players must swiftly analyse the board and plan their movements that the visuals are clear and simple to grasp.\nHigh-quality cardboard pieces and manageable, easy-to-shuffle cards are among the game's components. The trains are entertaining to play with and give the game a physical component.\nOverall, the aesthetics of the game are both practical and aesthetically beautiful. Players are drawn in and motivated to keep playing because it delivers an immersive and interesting experience. The game's lasting appeal is largely due to its vibrant, high-quality components and user-friendly design.", "937" ], [ "WHAT IS IT?\nPandemic is a cooperative game for 1-4 players, designed by <PERSON>, published and distributed by Z-Man Games.\nWHAT'S THE BIG IDEA?\nEach player represents a character among a scientific research team that is trying desperately to treat and cure four powerful diseases that are threatening to eliminate mankind.\nWHAT'S IN IT FOR ME?\nPandemic comes in a medium-sized box that includes a game board, 4 large (a bit too large, perhaps) player pawns, 4 disease cure markers, infection and outbreak markers, six wooden Research Stations, a nice easy-to-read and follow 8 page glossy rulebook, several cubes in 4 different colors, 2 decks of cards (Player Cards and Infection Cards), as well as 5 role cards and 4 player aid cards.\nWHAT AM I SUPPOSED TO DO WITH THAT?\nTo set up the game, each player is dealt one of the player roles and receives a number of Player Cards (which represent the different cities on the board, and include a few special ability cards). The diseases get a head start where three Infection Cards are drawn and three disease cubes are added to each of those cities, then three more cards are drawn with two cubes added to each city, then three more cards are drawn with one cube added to each city. A number of Epidemic cards are added to the Player Card deck (4 = easy game, 5 = normal game, 6 = very hard game), and all players begin with their pawns in Atlanta, where there is also a Research Station.\nEach player's turn follows the same simple order...\n1. Take up to 4 actions.\n2. Draw 2 Player Cards.\n3. Draw Infection Cards equal to the current Infection rate.\nOf the 4 actions a player can make on their turn, the options are:\n- Move from one city to a connecting city (costs one action per move).\n- Discard a particular city card to \"fly\" to that city (costs one action).\n- Discard the city card you are currently in to fly to any other city (costs one action).\n- Move from a city with a research station to another city with a research station (costs one action).\n- Build a Research Station by discarding the card of the city the player's pawn is located (costs one action).\n- Treat a disease by removing cubes from the city where the player's pawn is located (costs one action per cube removed).\n- Cure a disease by discarding 5 cards of particular disease's color while the player's pawn is located at a Research Station (costs one action).\n- Trade a card with another player as long as both players are in the city of the traded card (costs one action).\nThe character roles are worth mentioning now, as each of them has a special ability which affects the above actions...\nThe Dispatcher can move another player's pawn on his turn, and can also move any player's pawn to a city occupied by any other player's pawn.\nThe Operations Expert can build a Research Station at any city where he is located, without having to discard (or hold) that city's card.\nThe Scientist only needs 4 of the same color's cards in order to cure a disease.\nThe Medic may remove all disease cubes in a city for only one action, instead of one action per cube.\nThe Researcher may give any card to another player (one action per card) when they are in the same location.", "699" ], [ "It does not need to be the card matching the location.\nOnce a player has taken their 4 actions, they draw 2 Player Cards and add them to their hand (hand limit is 7, so players must discard if the limit is exceeded). Included in the Player Card deck are a few special cards, which can be played at any time during the game and do not cost an action to play. These include the following abilities; Airlift (fly any player to any city on the board); One Quiet Night (skip the Infection phase for one player's turn); Government Grant (add a Research Station to any city); Resilient Population (choose one Infection Card from the discard pile and remove it from the game); Forecast (look at the next six Infection Cards and reorder them however you choose).\nSo that's all good, but there are also some very, very bad cards in the Player Card deck... the Epidemic Cards. When an Epidemic Card is drawn, you take the Infection Card that is on the bottom of the Infection Card deck (to be sure of introducing a new infected city into the game) and add three cubes to it. The Infection rate also moves up one, and so after a few epidemics you will be drawing 3 and then 4 Infection Cards per turn. Yikes.", "218" ] ]

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[ [ "I2C Blynk Car With Attiny85 and M5StickC\nIntroduction: I2C Blynk Car With Attiny85 and M5StickC\nThis project shows you how to build your own I2C DC motor drive using a DigiSpark Attiny85 plus Arduino motor shield. To test its operation, I made a small RC car which used an M5StickC & connected to Blynk App. to communicate with this drive via the I2C protocol.\nPlease check my introduction video before getting started.\nStep 1: Supplies\nFirst of all, I would like to thank the JLCPCB for supporting me on this project. If you have a PCB project, please visit the JLCPCB website to get exciting discounts and coupons as follows:\n* JLCPCB PCB Prototype only $2.\n* Get $24 Register Coupon here: jlcpcb.com/cyt\na. Main materials:\n⦾ 1pcs x M5StickC.\n⦾ 1pcs x DigiSpark ATTiny85.\n⦾ 1pcs x Quad DC Motor Driver Shield for Arduino.\n⦾ 4pcs x Small DC Gear Motor with Wheel. I've reused 4pcs x Micro DC Motor in the CD/DVD players and 4 wheels from toy cars, but it's better to go with geared motors with wheel.\n⦾ 1pcs x LM2596S 3A Adjustable Step-down DC-DC Power Supply Module.\n⦾ 2pcs x Double Sided DIY Protoboard Circuit 7x9cm.\n⦾ 1pcs x Arduino Uno Protoshield.\n⦾ 1pcs x 2 Slot Battery 18650 Holder.\n⦾ 2pcs x Rechargeable Li-ion Battery 18650.\n⦾ 4pcs x Male & Female Header.\n⦾ 4pcs x Copper Standoff Spacers 20mm.\n⦾ 1 meter x 8P/16P Rainbow Ribbon Cable.\n⦾ 2 pcs x R10K.\n⦾ 1pcs x XH2.54mm – 4P 10cm Wire Cable Double Connector.\n⦾ 1pcs x Grove Connector.\n⦾ 1 meter x Two Core Power Cable.\n⦾ Cable spiral wrap, bolts and nuts.\nb.", "375" ], [ "Tools:\n⦾ Hot glue gun.\n⦾ Soldering machine.\nStep 2: Schematic\nMain control components include: M5StickC, DigiSpark Attiny85, DFRobot Quad DC Motor Driver Shield for Arduino. And their connection is as below:\nI used two communications in this project to control four DC motors of a RC car:\n* M5StickC gets Blynk joystick command from smartphone via WIFI and converts it to car direction and speed.\n* After that M5StickC transmits these converted commands to Attiny85 via I2C protocol. Finally, after receiving command, Attiny85 send its output signals to Quad motor shield to control direction and speed of car DC motors.\nNotes:\n* In the schematic, I used 2 pull-up resistors R10K on the SDA and SCL line.\n* For the quad motor shield, I connected each group consisting of 2 DC motors in parallel at the M1 & M2 screw terminals. DIR signal of motor M1 & M2 has been connected together at motor shield pin 4 & 12. So I have controlled four DC motors with only 3 signals.\nStep 3: Car Assembly\nAfter using stepper motors for mini CNC projects, there are still some DC motors left in the CD/DVD player. They are used to insert or eject CD/ DVD plastic tray.\nI disassembled four DC motors, soldered them on the double sided protoboard 7x9cm.\nI found some wheels from small toy cars that have a center bore equal to the 2mm motor shaft diameter.\nI used another protoboard 7x9cm then soldered on it a step-down power supply module LM2596, a power switch, a 2-pin screw header and 4 male header groups that match correspondingly to all the pins of the Quad DC Motor Shield for Arduino.\nThe LM2596 output terminals were connected to male headers at pin 5V and GND. It is used to power all the control circuits after I stack all the boards on these headers.\nI connected wires for battery holder, module LM2596, motor shield power supply and 4 DC motors.", "611" ], [ "The Local Weather Station on a Four-Wheels Bluetooth Controlled Car\nIntroduction: The Local Weather Station on a Four-Wheels Bluetooth Controlled Car\nHello!!!\nThis is my four-wheels bluetooth controlled car which is equipped a local weather station on it. This four wheels car can be fully functional bluetooth controlled via Blynk that allows the car to move forward, backward, turn left, turn right by four DC motors. And it can also measure the weather data on my surrounding such as: air pressure, temperature, humidity, light. It is controlled by Seeed Wio Terminal & DFRobot Quad DC Motor Driver Shield. And all data related to car and weather are shown on both Wio Terminal LCD and Blynk HMI screen.\nPlease check my introduction video before getting started.\nStep 1: Supplies\nFirst of all, I would like to thank the following sponsors who helped me complete this project.\n⦾ JLCPCB: for financial support and free PCB sponsor. If you have a PCB project, please visit the JLCPCB website to get exciting discounts and coupons as follows:\n* JLCPCB PCB Prototype only $2.\n* Get $24 Register Coupon here: jlcpcb.com/cyt\n⦾ SEEED STUDIO: support me a Wio Terminal hardware.\n⦾ DFROBOT: support me a Quad DC Motor Driver Shield for Arduino.\na.", "375" ], [ "Main materials:\n⦾ 1pcs x Seeed Wio Terminal.\n⦾ 1pcs x DFRobot Quad DC Motor Driver Shield for Arduino.\n⦾ 1pcs x Grove - Temperature & Humidity Sensor (DHT11).\n⦾ 1pcs x Grove Temperature and Barometer Sensor (BMP280). I had one Grove Beginner Kit for Arduino which include DHT11 and BMP280 sensor. If you are new to Arduino, you can buy this kit with 10 additional Grove Arduino sensors all in one piece of the board.\n⦾ 4pcs x GA25 12V Geared Motor.\n⦾ 4pcs x 65mm Rubber Wheel Blue. I only had two of these, so I used GT2 Timing Pulleys 80 Teeth for two remaining wheels.\n⦾ 4pcs x Hexagon Motor Coupling For Robot Car Wheel.\n⦾ 6pcs x Rechargeable Li-ion Battery 18650.\n⦾ 2pcs x 2 Slot Battery 18650 Holder.\n⦾ 2pcs x 1 Slot Battery 18650 Holder.\n⦾ 1pcs x LM2596S 3A Adjustable Step-down DC-DC Power Supply Module.\n⦾ 1pcs x Arduino Uno Protoshield.\n⦾ 2pcs x Male & Female Header.\n⦾ 1pcs x Clear/White Acrylic, size A4, thickness 5mm.\n⦾ 1pcs x Round On/Off Switch.\n⦾ 1 meter x 8P/16P Rainbow Ribbon Cable.\n⦾ 2 meter x Two Core Power Cable.\n⦾ 2pcs x 5mm DC Male And Female Power Plug.\n⦾ Cable ties, cable spiral wrap, bolts and nuts.\n⦾ 500mm x PVC Pipe Ø42mm & Ø60mm.\n⦾ 2pcs x PVC Pipe Tee Ø42mm.\n⦾ 4pcs x PVC Pipe End Cap Ø42mm.\n⦾ 1pcs x PVC Straight Connector Tee Ø60mm.\n⦾ 2pcs x PVC Pipe End Cap Ø60mm.\nb. Tools:\n⦾ Drilling machine.\n⦾ Hand saw.\n⦾ Soldering machine.\nStep 2: Seed Wio Terminal\nThe Wio Terminal is a SAMD51-based microcontroller with Wireless Connectivity powered by Realtek RTL8720DN that’s compatible with Arduino and MicroPython. It runs at 120MHz (Boost up to 200MHz), 4MB External Flash and 192KB RAM. It supports both Bluetooth and Wi-Fi providing backbone for IoT projects.\nThe Wio Terminal itself is equipped with:\n* 2.4” LCD Screen.\n* Onboard IMU (LIS3DHTR).\n* Microphone.\n* Buzzer.\n* microSD card slot.\n* Light sensor.\n* Infrared Emitter(IR 940nm).\n* 5 Way Switch.\n* 3 User Defined Button.\n* Built-in RTC functionality inside the SAMD51 core.\n* And so on.", "1000" ], [ "Multicolor DrawBot\nIntroduction: Multicolor DrawBot\nI have seen many versions of the COREXY Drawbots and almost no one has enabled \"Homing\" function for them, even though the design already had space to fit limit switches. Today, I'd like to share how a CoreXY Drawbot can draw colorful shapes or texts by enabling its \"Homing\" function.\nStep 1: Supplies\nI would like to thank the JLCPCB for supporting me on this project. If you have a PCB project, please visit the JLCPCB website to get exciting discounts and coupons as follows:\n* JLCPCB PCB Prototype only $2.\n* Get $24 Register Coupon here: jlcpcb.com/cyt\nMain materials:\n⦾ 1set x 3D printed parts, available at: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2349232/files\n⦾ 1pcs x Arduino UNO R3 or Combo Arduino + CNCShield + A4988.\n⦾ 1pcs x Arduino CNC Shield V3 GRBL.\n⦾ 2pcs x Stepper Motor Driver A4988.\n⦾ 2pcs x Stepper motor NEMA 17.\n⦾ 1pcs x SG90 Servo.\n⦾ 2meter x GT2 6mm Timing Belt.\n⦾ 2pcs x GT2 Timing Pulley 16 Teeth.\n⦾ 2pcs x Round Shaft Diameter 8mm, Length 500mm.\n⦾ 2pcs x Round Shaft Diameter 8mm, Length 400mm.\n⦾ 2pcs x Linear rod M3 x 75mm, Z Axis.", "1000" ], [ "I reused these rods from old CDROMs.\n⦾ 8pcs x LM8UU linear bearings.\n⦾ 5pcs x Bearing 624zz.\n⦾ 1pcs x M8-L530mm threaded rod and 4pcs x M8 nuts.\n⦾ 1pcs x Power Supply 12/24VDC.\n⦾ 2 meter x 8P/16P Rainbow Ribbon Cable.\n⦾ 2pcs x Limit switches.\n⦾ 1pcs x 5mm DC Female Power Plug.\n⦾ 1pcs x Multicolor pen.\n⦾ 2 meter x copper braided shield.\n⦾ Some small cable ties, cable spiral wrap, M3 - M4 bolts and nuts.\nStep 2: 3D Printed Parts and Pre-assembly\n⦾ X supports\n⦾ Top and bottom clamshells\n⦾ Y front and back supports\n⦾ Slider base\n⦾ Slider and pen holder\n⦾ Idle pulley and thumb screw\n⦾ Arduino case\nStep 3: Assembly\nDetailed assembly instructions are included in the Thingiverse link. I only mention the parts that need attention, especially how to install limit switches.\n⦾ X limit switches\nI firstly measured the distance from 2 x limit switches located on the X supports to Arduino box, then soldered their wires accordingly.\nThe limit switches should be mounted on the X supports before installing stepper motors.\nI reused 2 old stepper motors which have short shafts, about 12mm so that limit switches can be mounted easily on the stepper motors head side without touching each other.\n⦾ Clamshell (Y) limit switch\nAs above, the limit switch should be mounted on the top clamshell before assembling the top and bottom clamshell together.\nIts cable is threaded through a rectangular hole available on the clamshell.\n⦾ Pen holder\nI printed 2 types of pen holders, one is for regular pen and the other is bigger for multi-color (multi-nib) pen.\nI use one of my daughter's multicolored pens. It is about 22mm in diameter.\nStep 4: Cable Arrangement\nI used a copper braided shield taken from a multi-cores control cable to cover all the drawbot's cables.\nThe cables of stepper motor, limit switch far away from control box and M8 bolt were all threaded into copper braided shield.\nThe servo and Y axis limit switch were also done in same way.\nIt looks pretty cool in the end!!!\nStep 5: Connections\nMy Drawbot cable connection is show as below:\nNotes:\n* We can use 2 limit switches for X- and Y-, it is good enough for a drawbot.\n* If the limit switch wire is placed too close to the stepper motor wire, it can cause interference and give an incorrect stop signal.\nStep 6: GRBL Firmware\na.", "1000" ], [ "Flexible Mounting RGB Dome Light\nIntroduction: Flexible Mounting RGB Dome Light\nA few years ago, when my son started going to school on his own by bike, I bought for him a QQ Watch that allowed me and my wife to stay in touch and keep track of him. This smartwatch is now broken but I still keep its box because it looks pretty. I took my time to turn it into a useful thing - this is a flexible mounting RGB light made out of this case.\nLet's getting started.\nStep 1: Supplies\nThe main components are as follows:\n⦾ 1pcs x DigiSpark ATTiny85.\n⦾ 3pcs x Power Logic 8-Bit Shift Register TPIC6B595N.\n⦾ 2pcs x A1013 Transistors.\n⦾ 16pcs x RGB LED 10mm, Common Anode.\n⦾ 24pcs x R100.\n⦾ 3 pcs x R10K.\n⦾ 1 pcs x R22K.\n⦾ 2pcs x Capacitor 0.1uF.\n⦾ 2pcs x Female 40pin 2.54mm Header.\n⦾ 2pcs x Male 40pin 2.54mm Header.\n⦾ 3pcs x 20-Pin DIP IC Base Socket Connector (For TPIC6B595N).\n⦾ 1pcs x Mini Round Momentary Push Button.\n⦾ 2pcs x Double Sided DIY Protoboard Circuit 5x7cm.\n⦾ 1 meter x 8P/16P Rainbow Ribbon Cable.\n⦾ 2pcs x 5mm DC Male And Female Power Plug.\n⦾ Some Neodymium Magnets.\nStep 2: Schematic\nI stuffed 16pcs x RGB leds 10mm and control board into the watch box. ATTiny85 microcontroller was used in this project to control RGB led and one push button for mode selection.", "769" ], [ "The schematic is shown on the image above.\nFirst of all, I would like to thank the JLCPCB for supporting me on this project. If you have a PCB project, please visit the JLCPCB website to get exciting discounts and coupons as follows:\n* JLCPCB PCB Prototype only $2.\n* Get $24 Register Coupon here: jlcpcb.com/cyt\nStep 3: Assembly and Soldering\nI disassembled the watch box parts and measured the dimensions. It fits with 5x7cm PCB protoboards.\nRGB led matrix 4x4 was soldered on a protoboard 5x7 cm.\nSoldering control component on the remaining PCB 5x7 cm following the schematic on Step 2.\n⦾ Top view.\n⦾ Bottom view.\nRemove the watch holder and glue the led matrix 4x4 to the middle part's top.\nThread all wires from the led matrix down to the control board which is located at the middle part's bottom.\nPlug ATTiny85 on its header.\nDrill and install one push button and female power plug at bottom part.\nGlue some Neodymium magnets.\nAssemble all the parts together. DONE.\nStep 4: Programing\nThe following core, libraries and driver for DigiSpark ATTiny85 need to be installed in this project:\n⦾ ATTinyCore.\n⦾ Digistump Driver.\n⦾ Arduino tinySPI Library.\n⦾ AnalogButtons.\nSPI Connections:\n⦾ DigiSpark ATTiny85 PB0 to TPIC6B595N Pin 12 (RCK - LATCH PIN).\n⦾ DigiSpark ATTiny85 PB1 to TPIC6B595N Pin 3 (SER IN - DATA IN).\n⦾ DigiSpark ATTiny85 PB2 to TPIC6B595N Pin 13(SRCK - CLOCK PIN).\n⦾ TPIC6B595N Enable Pin (OE) to Ground.\nThe DigiSpark ATTiny85 code is shown below:\n#include <tinySPI.h>\n#include <AnalogButtons.", "379" ], [ "Dual-Task CoreXY DrawBot\nIntroduction: Dual-Task CoreXY DrawBot\nWhen I saw a COREXY (or H-Bot) plotter, I thought I would make it someday. Since most of its components were made from 3D printers so I have postponed it. Fortunately, once again the PVC pipes gave me an idea to build it with a special version. My Dual-Task CoreXY DrawBot can perform double tasks simultaneously, eg: plotting 2 same drawings at the same time, or using pen plotting and laser engraving simultaneously.\nPlease check my introduction video before getting started.\nStep 1: Supplies\na. Main materials:\n⦾ 1pcs x DFRduino UNO R3 - Compatible with Arduino Uno\n⦾ 1pcs x Arduino CNC Shield V3 GRBL.\n⦾ 1pcs x 3 Axis Control Board GRBL With Laser Engraver Supported. (Optional if we use Laser engraving mode)\n⦾ 1pcs x 2500mW Laser Module (Optional if we use Laser engraving mode).\n⦾ 4pcs x Stepper Motor Driver A4988\n⦾ 2pcs x Stepper motor NEMA 17.\n⦾ 2pcs x CD/DVD Rom Player Drive.\n⦾ 2pcs x 50 mm L Stepper Motor Support.\n⦾ 3meter x GT2 6mm Timing Belt.\n⦾ 4pcs x GT2 5mm Bore Aluminum Toothless Idler Pulley for 6mm Width Timing Belt.\n⦾ 1pcs x GT2 Idler Timing Pulley 5mm Bore 20 Teeth.\n⦾ 2pcs x GT2 Timing Pulley 20 Teeth.\n⦾ 4pcs x Round Shaft Diameter 8mm, Length 500mm.\n⦾ 8pcs x Ball Flanged Shielded Bearings 8 x 22 x 7mm.\n⦾ 8pcs x Horizontal Ball Bearing Bracket or Vertical Ball Bearing Bracket.\n⦾ 2pcs x Aluminum Flexible Shaft Coupling, Inner Hole Size: 10mm x 10mm.\n⦾ 1pcs x Power Supply 12/24VDC.\n⦾ 2pcs x Clear/White Acrylic, size A3, thickness at least 5mm.\n⦾ 4pcs x Copper Brass Pillars L-10mm.\n⦾ 2 meter x 8P/16P Rainbow Ribbon Cable.\n⦾ 1pcs x 5mm DC Female Power Plug.\n⦾ Some small cable ties, cable spiral wrap, bolts and nuts and small zinc wires.\nb.", "1000" ], [ "PVC pipes and fittings:\n⦾ 14pcs x PVC Pipe Tee Ø21mm.\n⦾ 16pcs x PVC Three Way Tee Ø21mm.\n⦾ 4 meter x PVC Pipe Ø21mm.\nc. Tools:\n⦾ Drilling machine.\n⦾ Hand saw.\n⦾ Soldering machine.\nd. Firmware & Softwares:\n⦾ GRBL.\n⦾ Inkscape.\n⦾ LaserGRBL.\n⦾ Engraver Master.\n⦾ Universal Gcode Platform (UGS).\nStep 2: How It Works\nMy DrawBot is based on GRBL firmware and used built-in CoreXY kinematics in GRBL. Its mainframe and supports are made of PVC pipes and acrylic sheets. It has working range about Y350mm x X320mm and detail configuration is shown below:\nIt has two Z axes (\"A\" is cloned from Z axis) so it is possible to draw two identical images or texts at the same time.\nMy DrawBot movement is described as follows:\n⦾ X and Y rotate clockwise: Y-\n⦾ X and Y rotate counterclockwise: Y+\n⦾ X rotate clockwise and Y rotate counterclockwise: X-\n⦾ X rotate counterclockwise and Y rotate clockwise: X+\nGo to the next steps to see how I built it.\nStep 3: Fixed Frame - Y Axis\nFirstly, I joined 4 pcs x PVC three-way tees Ø21mm together. I made two sets like that (called Y supports) for 2 ends of the Y axis. Later, two stepper motors X and Y would be mounted on them.\nTo build Y slider, I connected 2 pcs x PVC tees Ø21mm together and inserted ball bearings into 4 ends of this assembly.\nThen I jointed 10pcs x PVC tee Ø21mm together.", "1000" ], [ "Physical Buttons for Zoom\nIntroduction: Physical Buttons for Zoom\nDue to the COVID-19 pandemic, my children had to learn online from home via Zoom App. After a few observations, I found that my little daughter had difficulty with keyboard and mouse operations because her desk was filled with notebooks, textbooks, pens, rulers and school supplies. Sometimes she missed answering questions when the teacher called her name because she was slow to use the mouse and keyboard. So I made her a physical push-button box controlled by Attiny85 that connects via the laptop's USB port to help her study better.\nStep 1: Supplies\nFirst of all, I would like to thank the JLCPCB for supporting me on this project. If you have a PCB project, please visit the JLCPCB website to get exciting discounts and coupons:\n⦾ JLCPCB PCB Prototype only $2.\n⦾ Get $24 Register Coupon Get $24 Register Coupon here: jlcpcb.com/cyt\nMain materials:\n⦾ 1pcs x DigiSpark ATTiny85.\n⦾ 1pcs x M5StickC (Optional).\n⦾ 4pcs x Mini Round Momentary Push Button.\n⦾ 1pcs x Double Sided DIY Protoboard Circuit 5x7cm.\n⦾ 2 meters x 5 Cores Cable.\n⦾ 1pcs x Cable Gland.", "33" ], [ "It is based on 5 core cable size.\n⦾ 4 pcs x R10K.\n⦾ 3 pcs x R22K.\n⦾ 1 pcs x R200K.\n⦾ 1pcs x Male & Female Header.\n⦾ 1pcs x PVC Pipe Cross Ø21mm.\n⦾ 4pcs x PVC Pipe End Cap Ø21mm.\nStep 2: Schematic\nIn this project, I used DigiSpark ATTiny85's reset pin (PB5 or ADC0) as the multiple analog buttons without setting Fuse Bits. The schematic is as follows:\nATTiny85 & pushbuttons in this project works like an USB HID (Human Interface Device) keyboard. There are 4 pushbuttons and their functions describes below:\n⦾ Center Button: Enter (short press less than 1 second) or Exit (press and hold more than 2 seconds) the Zoom meeting window.\n⦾ Audio Button: Mute/ Unmute my Audio.\n⦾ Video Button: Start/ Stop Video.\n⦾ Hand Button: Raise/ Lower Hand.\nThe table below shows the voltages and analog values at ATTiny85's PB5 pin corresponding to each push button when it is pressed:\nWith this hardware config, PB3 (USB+), PB4(USB-) and RESET (PB5) pins are used and I have 3 pins left for further development:\n⦾ PB0 (SDA) and PB2(SCL): can be used for I2C related further development applications.\n⦾ PB1(PWM1): can be used for PWM control.\n⦾ Or PB0 (MISO), PB1 (MOSI), PB2 (SCLK): can be used for SPI communication.\nStep 3: Assembly\nPrepare PVC pipe fittings Ø21mm: one cross and four end caps.\nDrill holes on 3 end caps and install 3 green push buttons.\nDrill hole on the PVC cross center and install red push button.\nMount cable gland on the remaining end cap.\nSolder 5 cores cable to 4 push buttons, joint 4 PVC end caps and cross together.\nCut the PCB 5x7cm in half, solder the resistors, 5 core cable at the bottom and mount this PCB on a small acrylic sheet, fix the 5 cores cable by cable tie.\nFemale headers for ATTiny85 were soldered on the PCB top. The I2C pull-up resistors 10K and 8-pin male header for M5StickC were also soldered for further development.\nPlug DigiSpark ATTiny85 on the PCB control board. DONE!!!\nStep 4: Zoom Keyboard Shortcuts\nDownload and install Zoom Client for Meetings software in my computer.\nOpen Zoom ‣ Settings ‣ Keyboard Shortcuts\nRecord the shortcuts that I want to use for my buttons, in my case, they are:\n⦾ Mute/ Unmute My Audio: Alt + A.\n⦾ Start/ Stop Video: Alt + V.\n⦾ Raise/ Lower Hand: Alt + Y.\n⦾ Close Current Window: Alt + F4.", "379" ], [ "CoreXZ Puzzle Pipe Plotter\nIntroduction: CoreXZ Puzzle Pipe Plotter\nToday, I'd like to share how to build at home a CoreXZ puzzle pipe plotter. It is called \"puzzle pipe\" CNC because I put pieces of pipe fittings together in a logical way, in order to arrive at the strong and nice mechanisum CNC structure.\nThe plotter firmware is CoreXY, but it works in another dimension CoreXZ.\nPlease check my video before getting started!\nStep 1: Supplies\nI would like to thank the JLCPCB for supporting me on this project. If you have a PCB project, please visit the JLCPCB website to get exciting discounts and coupons as follows:\n* JLCPCB PCB Prototype only $2.\n* Get $24 Register Coupon here: jlcpcb.com/cyt\na. Main materials:\n⦾ 1pcs x Arduino UNO R3 or Combo Arduino + CNCShield + A4988.\n⦾ 1pcs x Arduino CNC Shield V3 GRBL.\n⦾ 3pcs x Stepper Motor Driver A4988\n⦾ 3pcs x Stepper motor NEMA 17.\n⦾ 3pcs x 50 mm L Stepper Motor Support.\n⦾ 4meter x GT2 6mm Timing Belt.\n⦾ 4pcs x GT2 5mm Bore Aluminum Toothless Idler Pulley for 6mm Width Timing Belt.\n⦾ 2pcs x GT2 Idler Timing Pulley 5mm Bore 20 Teeth.\n⦾ 3pcs x GT2 Timing Pulley 20 Teeth.\n⦾ 4pcs x Round Shaft Diameter 8mm, Length 500mm.\n⦾ 2pcs x Round Shaft Diameter 8mm, Length 200mm.\n⦾ 12pcs x Ball Flanged Shielded Bearings 8 x 22 x 7mm.\n⦾ 12pcs x Horizontal Ball Bearing Bracket or Vertical Ball Bearing Bracket.\n⦾ 1pcs x Power Supply 12/24VDC.\n⦾ 2pcs x Clear/White Acrylic, size A3, thickness at least 5mm.\n⦾ 4pcs x Copper Brass Pillars L-10mm.\n⦾ 2 meter x 8P/16P Rainbow Ribbon Cable.\n⦾ 1pcs x 5mm DC Female Power Plug.\n⦾ Some small cable ties, cable spiral wrap, bolts and nuts.\nb. PVC pipes and fittings:\n⦾ 70pcs x PVC Pipe Tee Ø21mm.\n⦾ 16pcs x PVC Three Way Tee Ø21mm.\n⦾ 16pcs x PVC Four Way Tee Ø21mm.\n⦾ 4pcs x PVC Cross Ø21mm.\n⦾ 8pcs x PVC Elbow Ø21mm.\n⦾ 4pcs x PVC Connector Ø21mm.\n⦾ 8 meter x PVC Pipe Ø21mm.\nc.", "1000" ], [ "Tools:\n⦾ Drilling machine.\n⦾ Hand saw.\n⦾ PVC pipe cutter: It was very useful for this project, because I had to cut a lot of connecting pipes.\n⦾ Soldering machine.\nStep 2: How It Works\nMy plotter use built-in CoreXY kinematics in GRBL and it has working range about X380mm x Y380mm x Z6mm. It structure is shown as follow:\n⦾ The X and Z axes are driven by 2 stepper motors and a common timing belt (CoreXY system). On the Z axis, I attach a PVC pipe containing a pen inside for plotting.\n⦾ The Y axis works like other traditional CNCs via timing belt. And the CNC plotter frame is made out of PVC fittings. The following picture shows the plotter's backside.\nStep 3: XZ Assembly\nI cut 2 acrylic sheets, dimension L180 x W120 x T5mm and drilled holes to mount stepper motors.\nTwo XZ supports were assembled by PVC pipe tees, three and four-way tees following the shape below, then mounted stepper motors with acrylic sheet to this supports. Two lock bearings were also inserted at 2 open holes.\nAssemble one more support to keep XZ axes strong enough.\nX and Z sliders were constructed from 2 pcs x PVC tees with ball bearings at 4 ends of these sliders.\nAn acrylic sheet, dimension L120mm x W120 x T5mm, was drilled and installed 4 toothless idler pulleys in the center.\nAssemble the XZ slider.", "1000" ], [ "Rainbow Led Circuit Sculpture\nIntroduction: Rainbow Led Circuit Sculpture\nToday I would like to share how to make a sculpture circuit that controls 16 RGB leds using ATTINY85. We can adjust their colors separately according to the colorwheel rule with a touch button.\nStep 1: Things We Need\nThe main components are as follows:\n* 1pcs x DigiSpark ATTiny85.\n* 1pcs x Shift Register 74HC595N.\n* 1pcs x Power Logic 8-Bit Shift Register TPIC6B595N.\n* 8pcs x Transistor A1013.\n* 16pcs x RGB LED 5mm, Common Anode.\n* 6pcs x R100.\n* 8pcs x R1K.\n* 2pcs x Capacitor 0.1uF.\n* 1pcs x 2.54mm Pitch 40 Long Pin Single Female Header.\n* 1pcs x 16-Pin DIP IC Base Socket Connector (For 74HC595N).\n* 1pcs x 20-Pin DIP IC Base Socket Connector (For TPIC6B595N).\n* 1pcs x Touch Button.\n* 1meter bare copper wire.\n* 1pcs x Power Bank 5V.\nTools:\n* Wooden template: I reused a template when I did a led cube project. For this project, we just need one row with 8 holes, each hole diamter: 5mm and hole spacing: 20mm.\n* Soldering Iron: I use 2 types of soldering iron, one with a small tip and adjustable temperature and the other with a bigger tip. The reason is that my small tip soldering iron is very difficult to solder big size bare copper wires together.\n* The other tools:\nStep 2: Schematic\nThe project schematic is shown on the above picture. I try to arrange the schematic as same as the circuit sculpture arrangement so it is quite big. You can download HERE for schematic in PDF file.\nStep 3: Soldering Works\nSoldering the red, green, and blue pins (cathode pins) of 8 leds together to form the first group.\nSoldering the same for second group and arrange two groups of leds with their backs to each other. The anode pins are soldered together like picture below.\nIdentifying the E (Emitter) pin of PNP A1013 transistor. These pins will be connected to the power supply. I inserted 8 transistors into the wooden template holes and soldered all E pins to the copper wire.", "769" ], [ "The C (Collector - middle pin) pins of each transistor will be connected to the led group anode pin above. Because transistors and LEDs have the same spacing, it is easy to solder.\nOnce the C pin (Collector - the middle pin) of the transistor is connected to the anode pin of the led, I had a strong structure. Then I soldered remaining components and fly wires following the schematic. I can put leds into wooden template holes\nOr I can put transistors into wooden template holes during soldering.\nWe need to note the pinout and arrangement of the 74HC595.\nAnd TIPC6B595N pinout and its arrangement are shown below:\nBecause it is symmetrically arranged so it can stand on its own on a flat surface.\nFinish.\nStep 4: Programming\n1. The project code is available at my GitHub.\n2. The following core, library need to be installed in this project:\n* ATTinyCore at: https://github.com/SpenceKonde/ATTinyCore\nThis core allows sketches to be uploaded directly to DigiSpark ATTiny85 via USB and it can be installed using the Boards Manager in Arduino IDE. The Boards Manager URL is:\nhttp://drazzy.com/package_drazzy.com_index.json\n- File ‣ Preferences on Arduino IDE, enter the above URL in \"Additional Boards Manager URLs\"\n- Tools ‣ Boards ‣ Boards Manager... - Select \"ATTinyCore by <PERSON>\" and click \"Install\".\n* tinySPI library at: https://github.com/JChristensen/tinySPI\n- Open Aduino IDE\n- Sketch ‣ Include Library ‣ Manage Libraries... ‣ Search \"tinySPI by <PERSON>\" ‣ Install.\n3.", "379" ] ]

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[ [ "This answer flows with rather a stream of consciousness and has less a proper essay structure. I hope that it helps you nonetheless — indeed, that's the whole thing I am advocating here: it is easier to begin filling emptiness with the right brain and to tend it later with the left brain — rather like as I said in another of my answers here.\nIf you are any good at writing nonsense or disconnected fragments, then you could attempt that. I do it all the time whether I am writing introductions or simply something which I could possibly use later.\nErgo, there are three situations:\n* You have a concept for project, and you wish to begin producing usable assets.\n* You come up with a scene in your head, or you are walking along a field and are suddenly moved to describe it poetically, or you want to capture an emotion suddenly expressed.\nCarry a notepad or other such device with you at all times.\n* You are in the mood to produce something, but don't have any context or scenario in mind.\nSee this:\nThe air was fetid and cold. My breath turned to a damp cloud which settled back on the open book beneath my face. Somehow, the pages collected that moisture more eagerly than my captive rattigar would lunge for my arm when I feed it carelessly.\nI tilted my head upward so as to renew my watch on the horizon. The line of guardhouses was ever nearer, but my steps toward them were slow and plodded disinterestedly.\nMeh, you get the idea. Some pilgrim is about to take on a new apprenticeship, or maybe a scholar has been summoned to a town to weigh in on some crisis.", "487" ], [ "I don't know.\nIt is a little easier to do that for nothing than it is to do so with the expectation that whatever you write must fit in with something that hasn't been written yet.\nWhen I am writing an introduction, I want to make a hybrid of that such a thing as you read above with persons or scenario already conceived.\nI want to invite a reader slowly, so as to not toss about too many alien names or characteristics, but yet rapidly pull them in to the flow of the narration: I don't want to get them interested in the main character or their motivations yet; I want to get them interested in the setting. When they are interested in the setting, then I can show them how the character of a person contrasts or meshes with that setting. I do this because although a setting is vast, a person is intricate.\nOf course, I usually do all this introducing in less than 7 sentences. The sequence is the necessary thing.\nOftentimes, I will move that introduction to somewhere else, or rewrite it entirely. Not often will I simply delete it, but by the time I decide to do that, I've already written other stuff.\nThat brings me to the next bit of advice: sometimes I will begin writing descriptions or dialogue while I've not yet done a proper introduction.\nDepends on whichever is ready in my imagination.\nThat is where the bit about always writing down those loose fragments comes in handy: if you want to begin a new project, but have some trepidation as to how exactly to plant the seed in the blank page, then you can look through your collection of notes.\nIf you have something there which can be appropriated, then take it and begin. It doesn't need to be the beginning, either. Write in both directions.\nMaybe, with you, it would help to see the blank page as somewhere in the middle, rather than at the beginning of your story.", "487" ], [ "I would suspect that you may be having a specific problem with storytelling (which is not quite the same thing as writing.)\nI myself do a lot of worldbuilding for fictional purposes, and your description:\n\"I will spend large amounts of planning the geography so small pockets of interesting species can live secluded, how the trade between countries work, what the impact of mushroom forests could have on wild life, how airships can be used in warfare, and so on\"\nfeels very familiar.\nFor what it's worth, I think that worldbuilding and storytelling are very different headspaces. They use different facets of the creative mind, and my suspicion is that not too many of us are good at doing both at the same time. (In college, when I was simultaneously majoring in Physics and Art, I ended up having to trade semesters off rather than do a blended curriculum. I experienced strong mutual interference: my art sucked and my math/physics were way harder when I was trying to do that.)\nWhen you say\n\"After writing a chapter or two I get bored and abandon the project\"\nit makes me think that you have a hard time telling stories when you're still in your worldbuilding mind.\nDon't know if it will work, but you might want to consider this:\n* Build your world.\n* Solemnly pinky swear to yourself that the world is no longer subject to edits, at least for the time being.\n* Tell stories set in that world.", "487" ], [ "If necessary, pretend you're writing fanfic about someone else's world.\nDon't bail out too soon. It's likely going to suck for a while until you get good enough at at storytelling to make your stories about your built worlds good enough to fit your worldbuilding. (My experience: I'm still a marginal storyteller and a very good worldbuilder. I keep telling stories...)\nIf, after long earnest shrewd effort, you can't get your storytelling up to scratch, maybe you should find a collaborator who's a damn good storyteller but who doesn't do worldbuilding very well. :-) Hey - it could happen, and it might work out.\nGood luck!", "487" ], [ "Write what you want to write: Accept what people want to read into it\nThis is a balancing act, but ultimately we're in La mort de l'auteur territory here.\nUltimately, readers are going to... read... things into what you have written. Some are going to read \"overly\" literally and miss your figurative intent. Others are going to reach for innuendo in everything that you, in your own head, meant literally. Subtext will develop. Critiques will form where random things are picked apart and you're left wondering when you even wrote the passage in question, because you don't even recall using that specific phrasing and certainly not with any intent for a particular interpretation of it.\nArt has two sides. Any art. Any act of communication. There is the side of the creative experience. And there is the side of the interpretive experience. The more you try to strangle your art into a narrow existence of precise communication, the more sterile it becomes.", "487" ], [ "This works in certain circumstances, but for fictional writing I find it to be generally detrimental.\nYou need to chose what you're okay with, in terms of what an audience interprets as how they experienced what they read, versus your intent in what you wrote. And you need to understand that if you're not okay with a specific interpretation, maybe you need to not write whatever you believe will lead to it: struggle all you want, get as explicit as can be, and all you've done is call attention to whatever it is in question.\nConsider, if you read a passage where an author went out of their way to try to highlight that a banana was merely a fruit, merely meant literally—in a work with other figurative uses for other objects, no less—don't you think you'd find it significant that so much time was spent talking about bananas? Wouldn't it seem to, in its own way, be an act of emphasis? Wouldn't you question whether the author's narrative acts in regards to the banana might not have aspects of deception, in terms of trying to claim it is only meant to be a banana?\nYou can't win this, and you're the one starting it\nPeople are going to read what they want to read, and their basis for that is what you put in front of them to be read. Writing is communication, and communication is always interpretive between the parties involved. Language alone is interpretive: we used a shared basis for meaning, but even with supposed authorities we still develop different interpretations of individual words, much less the nuances of those words in shifting contexts.\nIf you're using an item in a scene which has widely known and widely used alternate connotations, puerile or not, your only even marginally safe road if you are concerned is to remove it entirely, substitute something else for it.\nOne question I would have is, why is there even, explicitly, a banana at all? Why not just \"a piece of fruit\"? I love detail, but ultimately you're the one in control of what you write with detail and what you don't: and you can't escape the fact that the more detail you give, the more questions of whether there is a reason for that detail will occur in your audience. You put in the assumed effort and care to write it, why wouldn't someone think there's significance to the specific choices in what you wrote?\nIf you can't beat them, join them?\nSometimes the best foils for defusing something are your own characters. Rather than refuse the interpretation of readers, acknowledge that it will happen by letting your own characters engage in it.\nThe easiest way to control a narrative, inasmuch as one can, is to own it.\nMany people make phallic metaphors out of bananas. They make jokes about it. They tease each other about it. Some people find this exceedingly juvenile. Some court it. Some are oblivious to it.\nSo rather than run away from this, use it. Your intent might not be to have your use of bananas have any lingering other meanings, but outside of literature, when has that ever stopped anyone from doing so?\nWhy do you expect it to be different with what you write?\nHow would your characters, if they were real people, actually act in this situation? You can still speak through them, at which point it's easy enough to have someone pick up on the metaphoric aspects and run with it—teasingly or more circumspectly—and someone else react, perhaps by becoming annoyed that they can't even \"eat a banana in peace\" (which would undoubtedly get its own reaction, leading in turn possibly to something like an exasperated facepalm and a request to just drop it or something similar).", "873" ], [ "This is a dilemma that people are having a lot lately and I think it is mostly misled. For starters, as a writer, I physically cannot give you any information unless I tell you something. I only have my words, and words can only tell you things. What most critics mean when they say \"show, don't tell\" is really, \"tell me different things\" or, \"tell it to me without interrupting the story.\"\nThis is something that I was taught: language that insinuates motion or change is a hallmark of showing. Any word that acts as an '=' sign is usually telling\nFor example rather than:\nIt was sundown.\nYou could write\nThe surrounding shadows stretched out slowly as the sun sunk back down over the horizon.\nIn the first sentence, it is just two words connected by an '=' sign: \"It = sundown.\" Whatever was just happening was abruptly put on hold so you could fill the reader in.\nIn the second sentence, things are happening. The sun and shadows are moving.", "723" ], [ "Yes, you are telling the reader some things: that the shadows are getting longer in length and the sun is going down, but the difference is that these details add to the action of the scene, as opposed to stopping everything to tell the reader \"it was sundown.\" This shadowy, dusk scene can add tension or highlight the passage of time for the main character, etc. It adds to the action. It doesn't stop it altogether.\nSo a useful exercise could be just that: changing '=' signs to more active language, or seeing how many different ways in which you could say the same thing. You could, for just the \"it was sundown\" example, also write:\nThe sky turned all shades of turquoise, gold, and pink before settling back into the ultramarine shade of nighttime in Alaska.\nOr,\nA hush fell over the desert, and the air grew crisp while night washed over the frontier\namong thousands of other things. Stretching your imagination in this way can help your style, your descriptive language, even your storytelling immensely. It is also fun.\nIt goes for characterization, too. Rather than tell everyone your antagonist is upset, make her throw things, make faces, do things that someone who is upset would do.\nHope this helps.", "723" ], [ "It's good that you're starting with the story! Getting straight into the action is my favourite kind of storytelling (and I believe that's the general opinion nowadays?)\nI've seen this approach taken often in your situation:\n1. Slowly reveal her backstory through hints and implications in the rest of her and other people's actions and interactions\n2. You can also (after a little bit of immersion in the main story) lay it out explicitly, by having her recall her initial motivations.\n1 can be achieved by (for example) describing her habits, ticks, and mannerisms. Unique behaviours that have become ingrained in her being can be used as a clue for the reader to guess at her backstory. Of course you can mention the origins of the habits as well to make sure the audience ends up accurately on the same page as you, or let it remain mysterious and up to the reader's deduction. You can use interactions with other characters to similar effect: making other people who knew her from before run away from her when they see her waving to them, or talk to her referencing some childish nickname she used to have.\nYou can do 2 by simply having her talk about her history with someone she's come to trust.", "38" ], [ "That's quite common and (for me) touching, maybe others find it cliché and cheesy. You could also easily internally monologue it, and it often ends up as quite an epic reading experience to be shown more depth, or perhaps the new surprising truth, of the character through that character's deepest truest thoughts.\nI personally find method 1 more exciting. Don't ever feel that you have to share the backstory with the audience. It's very important for you as the writer, but may be boring to explicate to them — and completely draw them out of and put them off the story you want to tell. As long as you keep their origin in mind yourself, the audience will be able to see the kind of person they are, and perhaps infer their backstory, just through how they and others behave in the main story, and this is far more gripping, and a far more fun experience (at least for me).\nOf course, if you are dead set on explicitly explaining parts of their backstory to the audience (first ask yourself why?), then aim for a clever balance of 1 and 2. 2 is not itself bad (I do think however that prologues are bad!), it's fine to state things about backstory, but be careful not to get too sucked up into it, dedicating too many words for it, it can really slow down and damage immersion if overdone.", "846" ], [ "\"but after I watched it, I felt nothing.\"\nHonestly I have to agree with your editor: why not explore that?\nI don't want to make anhedonia and depression contagious, nor do I want to be boring.\nDo you really attribute your feelings about this episode to depression and/or anhedonia? What differentiates it from episodes which you don't feel this way about? Can you quantify that?\nOne of the easiest ways to explain something in a relatable way is to provide shared context. Even if you and your audience ultimately disagree about how you feel about the context you use, even if your audience feels differently about the episode in question as well, it provides a basis of comparison for that audience which offers useful insight into your own feelings and thoughts. That's easily something interesting to read about: how someone else experienced something differently, in a way that is thoughtfully presented with points of reference and explanation and exploration that make it more than just an arbitrary statement of differing opinion.\nThe episode made you feel nothing: how does that make you feel?\nYou spent however long (30 minutes? an hour?) watching a TV show, and came out with this flat affect in regards to it. Take one step back: how do you feel about being left with that lack of feeling as an outcome of your time spent watching? How does that make you feel about the decisions that presumably went into making the show? Would you rather this episode just not exist? What does a holistic view of this episode in the broader series make you feel, contexted specifically to this episode rather than as a review of the show overall?\nHyperbole And A Half (hyperboleandahalf.blogspot.com/2013/05/depression-part-two.html ) did a great job with it, but her style is the exact opposite of mine.\nHer style might be the opposite of yours (and involve use of cartoon imagery) but I think there's room here for you to explore things in a similar conceptual manner: step away from the episode and explore your experience of the episode. Does this mirror similar patterns you've come across in other shows? Do you have similar feelings about those?\nWhat if you take yet another step back?\nIf there's not enough to write about here directly, don't be afraid to explore meta-aspects/topics\nWhether in relation to yourself or in relation to the show or in relation to similar shows or simply TV/video in general, there's plenty of ways to make this relatable. To me, it absolutely seems like your editor was giving you a green light to explore more your own feelings in relation to this episode rather than simply the episode itself specifically.", "510" ], [ "And, really... isn't that more interesting as a reader?\nYour audience has all (presumably) watched the same episode, unless this anthology is meant to be nothing more than an episode synopsis. Anyone can summarize a book or show, there are plenty of places to go for things like plot summaries; people read something like an anthology of essays regarding a show for something more, something that goes beyond mere summary. A viable approach for that is to give them yourself, in relation to this episode, to whatever extent you're comfortable doing so.\nOne way to do this would be to roll in some personal anecdotes, then relate them back to not this episode's contents, but rather your lack of feeling that was evoked while watching it (you can for example start them seemingly non sequitor, in medias res, and then reel them back in to how they are relevant).\nEven something that leaves you feeling flat in the moment, in direct relation, has room for emotion as a consequence of that, has room for related topics which themselves unbundle emotion, and room for rapport with your audience in relation to your experience: none of that sounds very flat as something to read. Instead it sounds like some of the better pieces I've read in relation to things like shows and books, the ones that developed aspects of personally relatable consequence to the act of experiencing the piece being written about. Sometimes to the point where I'm left fairly sure that the piece being written about couldn't compare to what the piece that used it for inspiration and sometimes little more than a rough framing turned out to be.", "487" ], [ "The biggest risk is that you may lose the main characteristic of the narrator out of sight: to tell the reader what is important.\nThere is nothing wrong with changing the point of view and paying attention to different kinds of details is certainly a nice way to illustrate the change, but if you lose yourself in endless descriptions of the surroundings to illustrate that your character is not one who speaks much, but one who observes, you might forget to describe what is happening. Just like focusing too much on the dialogue may make you forget to describe the room your character is currently in.\nThe easiest of the things you listed is to have one character describe something as beautiful and another to describe it as boring, maybe because he has seen the thing so often that he doesn't care about it anymore. In this case you are describing the same thing from two very different points of view. That means you are doing the same thing in both perspectives, you just use different words and show different feelings. That way it won't happen that you forget to describe important stuff. In these cases you just have to remember that your reader will probably only want to read a description of the same beautiful/boring/normal/big/... thing so often.", "846" ], [ "If you do this once or twice your reader will quickly understand the difference between your characters.\nYour readers won't be confused by changing the narrative as long as you don't change it two or three times per page. For example changing the point of view every other chapter is normal in some books and your readers will have a mental break in that situation anyway. Quite the opposite: your readers will enjoy to have different points of view and to experience the story from different angles.\nThe biggest problem is to lose yourself in details just for the sake of showing a different point of view. After that comes the risk that some of your readers may prefer one point of view over the other - which is normal and shouldn't concern you too much as long as you don't explicitly try to make an obnoxious character. Changing the point of view suggests to a reader that there are different paths of a story that regularly converge and then split up again. They are part of something bigger, but leaving one out would leave the reader with only a part of the world explored and a part missing to fully understand what is going on. In mystery you might want that - in fantasy you often don't want that.", "846" ], [ "You might look into a distinction sometimes made between meltdowns, which may be thought of as external (and often may be described as 'tantrums' by teachers, colleagues, parents etc.), and shutdowns, which are internal. Here I would suggest (as somebody with asperger's who is typically very good at masking his symptoms) that your character might have a shutdown. If people speak to him, he may be unable to respond, becoming non-verbal for a period - he simply may not have the bandwidth to respond even internally to what is being asked or indeed pick up on the external stimulae. He might \"look through\" people he deals with every day, for example. Time might be experienced in a peculiar manner. He might to others appear catatonic, sitting, or standing in one place albeit possibly rocking at points as noted above and, at maximum, perhaps doing no more than waving people away when then do so much as ask if he is ok (though he might do the same even if they know him well, are empathetic, understand the situation and his condition and act solicitously). Stimming, for me at least, comes from a different place than this kind of a shutdown, which more or less precludes it (though as I think this through, I can imagine hand flapping and the like, perhaps coming in waves, so perhaps again not). There may be some form of an internal process, looping over the same logical explorations of something he is simply not able to take in - the computer analogy is apt here since a computer may get stuck in an infinite loop: again and again he may go over something he was planning to do which he now, obviously, cannot, but he has set himself up for his day and any change to this routine might take time to process and even minor changes might, depending upon his resilience and strategies to cope with change, provoke a meltdown or simply a bout of irascibility, but this one in particular, for obvious reasons, leads him to an incapacity to absorb reality and so, to such a stuck loop. I'm not certain this process would be in any way comparable to typical forms of thinking as might be explored in third person narration, and I do not know that I could, following such a (for me, rare) event, piece it together as anything like a stream of consciousness-style passage.\nI suggest he might have the presence of mind to find a toilet cubicle or corner of a room where he will unlikely be disturbed, face a wall, sit under a table, and here shutdown. People might thereby lose him for a time. It might also, however, be in a familiar space like a sofa or chair he habitually uses.", "209" ], [ "There he might sit in an unfamiliar position such as in the fetal position.\nFor the above, I am drawing on an analysis of my own experience and, in particular, one such occasion where I had something that could be understood as a shutdown. In the next paragraph I will describe the context for this episode.\nI am autistic have ADHD, am perennially underemployed, write fiction which I often doubt I will be able to publish or make any money from, and, while working on a novel while living in a different country than the one I was born in, received a letter from the Student Loan Agency asking me for forms and details I felt I could not provide them with (I am not a gifted bureaucrat). I had failed to provide such details before and so, they accused me of \"evasion\". I felt they could break me. I was sat on the living room sofa and, after a period of time when I rocked or some such, perhaps emitting a wailing sound, I essentially lost the power of speech. My girlfriend, who understands my condition, came to once or twice to see if she could help. I could not deal with her and waived her away. Later it would all come out of me, in angry short sentences at first and then with increasing (autistic) detail. Perhaps then she could do some of the things which normally work to calm me down when I am upset but not to such a degree: take me out for a walk etc.\nThat's my two cents. Others' mileage may vary. All told, however, I suspect you are on the right track. Get it down, consider then asking people with autism to give feedback, but also bear in mind that however you do it as somebody who is not themselves on the spectrum, somebody may be upset that it was not written another way.\nGood luck!", "873" ] ]

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[ [ "No, I am not compensating you for the room type you reserved\nLong story short, guest was not Happy with the room type they booked from a third-party travel agent website. They stated the room type was not right for their family, and asked for compensation. No! I am not compensating you for the room type YOU booked.", "1015" ], [ "It states on the website the layout of the room, and includes photos. We don't do upgrades at my property unfortunately as we are a timeshare and not a full-service hotel. So what you book is what you get.\nThe travel agent also had the nerve to call us and yell at us for not compensating their guest. How ridiculous", "1015" ], [ "Are we not on the same team here?\nNight Audit on a busy night at an OPTION branded hotel. Option Desk calls after midnight requesting to book a room on behalf of a guest. I tell the agent my availability. She says that she can't see any availability on her end, but she would book the room for tomorrow. I tell her no. That if the guest is coming in tonight, the reservation date must be for tonight, if she's unable to book it, then they will have to be a walk-in.\nI don't know what the hell this lady was on about. She had a list of excuses as of why he couldn't be a walk-in:\n\"She would like to secure the room.\"\nI can secure a room for a guest.", "245" ], [ ". .\n\"He would be tired after travel.\"\nHe's still going to have to check in, it doesn't matter.\n\"She would like to insure that the guest would not be charged. For tonight.\"\nWHAT DO YOU MEAN? he'd get charged if he books no matter if he shows up or not?????\nI again, say that if he wants the room he'd need to be a walk in. I cant adjust dates.\nShe books the room anyway, putting in the notes that I confirmed this. The room is a room type we are sold out of tonight and that is $40 more than what he was quoted. Luckily he was understanding when I told him what happened and that I TOLD HER NOT TO DO THIS FOR THIS SPECIFIC REASON.\nShe never informed me she was going to book anyway. She never did confirmed the rate or availability for that room type. She just pushed it through with my name attatched.", "245" ], [ "The Worst Regular\nHey there! Usually a lurker and not a poster, but I’m very excited about this and figured others would know the feeling.\nSince starting at the hotel I’m currently at, we’ve had this undesirable regular that nobody. He booked the Government Rate (which was MUCH cheaper than the regular rate) and nobody ever questioned him. If you did, he would blow up about being an ~insert highest value~ rewards member and saying we mistreated him. Yet he always came back.\nHe reeked of cigarette smoke, had an overall bad attitude, and demanded services we didn’t offer. The old FOM did nothing about this behavior and instead encouraged it.\nNow, I’m a GM in training and that FOM is gone.", "806" ], [ "The day prior he checked in and was worse than his usual already rude self, and after checking out today he contacted the special line for high-tier members to complain and try to get his money back from the stay. The new FOM (the best person tbfh) obviously gave him nothing.\nThen we get the call. The good one, from our Housekeeping team that said his room is going Out of Order because of the rancid smell of cigarette smoke.\n-cue evil laugh- I finally had my reason for putting him on out DNR list, and it was my absolute pleasure to let my brand know he was unable to stay with us anymore. After I had left for the day, he even tried to call and make a reservation. My GSA (who knew the guy from when he worked at another hotel chain that also DNR’d him) had the best time denying him and letting him know he wasn’t welcome back.\nGood riddance!", "940" ], [ "Why Don’t Hotels Have a Way to Leave Hotel Staff Tips on the Bill?\nI recognize that hotel staff, especially the housekeepers don’t make much money, so I always leave a cash tip commensurate with how many days stayed when I checkout.\nI’m not a very messy person - yes I am the guest that puts liners (using empty plastic grocery bags) in the room trash cans and will usually empty them myself everyday or two.\nSince, I don’t like anyone coming into my room, I typically will ask for towel/toiletries refresh whenever, I see the floor housekeeper. I typically, will ask the floor housekeeper their name and if they are assigned my room during my stay. Sometimes it works out and I will personally hand the person the tip the day before I checkout or if it’s an early checkout, I leave it on the dresser or bed with a thank-you note.\nThe dilemma is when the person is off on my departure day, assigned a different floor or shift. I don’t want to leave a tip in room for the person who just happens to get assigned my room that day. The other problem is sometimes, I never see the person who services my room for towel refreshes and quick tidy up, because I make a request before I leave the room and it’s done when I get back.\nDuring my last stay at an upscale hotel in LA, I asked to leave a tip on my bill for the housekeeper, because I never saw her/him.", "314" ], [ "The desk agent said there was no way for him to add the tip to my bill like in a restaurant.\nI then ask if they could check to see who serviced my room during the stay and how would I get a cash tip to that person. I was told the housekeeping manager would have to look at the schedule and get back to me.\nWell that wasn’t going to work, because I was checking out within a few minutes. So, the desk clerk gave me an envelope to put the cash in for the housekeeping manager to figure out who it belonged to. I really didn’t want to do it that way, but I felt it was better than nothing. So, I hope the cash made it’s way intact to the right person(s).\nAny other suggestions here how to make sure the right hardworking person gets their earned tip?", "540" ], [ "New scam?\nSo we got an email last night I will include the entire text of the email here:\n\"Hello! I need help. I lost my item in your hotel.\"\nThat was all of it. It was from someone with the same last name as a guest from February 2022. My evening shift teammate responded with:\n\"Hi <PERSON>, What item did you lose and when did you lose it?\"\nFive hours later a response came over with our night audit who I don't think saw it because it was still unread in the motel email account:\n\"I am writing again about a lost passport. We checked our car again, looked under the seats and in the boot, but we could not find my wife's passport. Now we are pretty sure we left it at your hotel.", "360" ], [ "Please see the photos of the passport, with all the details, I have also left the details of our check-in, namely the quest number.\nHere: https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=YesThereWasAnIDThatIveRedacted\nPassword: 123456\nср, 25 окт. 2023 г. в 09:35, The Motel wrote\"\nI was mildly suspicious already but I clicked the link to a Zip file that Google kindly informed me was \"unscannable\". That's when I noped right out. Why would you generate and upload a zip file when you could've typed in the relevant info into your first email, especially for a \"lost passport\".\nI informed management and the owners about the message, and that I'd check the zipfile on a linux computer from home tonight. I just want all my fellow agents to be safe out there.", "602" ], [ "No Ca$h?!?!?!\nWhen I arrived to my shift I had a slight dilemma with a guest. As I am taking care of him I noticed a guy and gal loading what looks like all of their belongings on one of the luggage carts. I don't think much of it and continue to assist the first guest.\nThey are obviously checking in and I refresh the system to see their reservation. I ask for an ID and the card they want to put on file to pay for the room.", "540" ], [ "He tells me that he just used a card to reserve the room but he will be paying cash. Even though we have it listed EVERYWHERE in the hotel that we no longer accept cash I informed him of our policy.\nHis total for the room, tax, and incidentals was around $160 but he SWEARS he is on a \"friends and family\" discount and that his mom is a manager somewhere in Florida. I apologize to him and inform him that he did not book on that rate. That is when he started raising his voice at me.\n\"WHY DONT YOU TAKE CASH!\" \"YOU'RE A PART OF THAT PROPOGANDA AND THE PROBLEM WITH THE WORLD NOW!\" \"DO YOU EXPECT ME TO TAKE ALL MY STUFF OFF THE CART AND WAIT OUTSIDE?!\" while his girlfriend is grilling me about what places near here take cash. I'm like, idk lady try the hourly rate motels down the road and don't take off with our luggage cart.\nThey waited 40 minutes outside with all their shit on the ground before a cab came to pick them up.", "806" ], [ "I just work here- I mean it. HERE is where I work.\nWhy is it that people want to ask so many questions about any place and every place other than the hotel you work at? I'm standing here, in this logoed uniform, with this logoed name tag, behind the desk with the logo on it. I know the policies and amenities of this hotel. I know the location of this hotel.\nIt's especially annoying when they're a walk-in, and they're pissed off we don't offer something they need (example: accepting pets). It's after 11pm. You drove in from god knows where, need a room with two beds now through sunday and you have a puppy. Not a dog. A PUPPY. Don't catch lip with me because YOU didn't plan accordingly. I have never went ANYWHERE without a reservation, let alone needed special accommodations on the fly. Now you're pissy with me because I don't have a readily available list of hotels in your budget, to your standards, and close by.", "1015" ], [ "Why? Because it's not my job to sell rooms at THOSE hotels.\nNo, I don't know what the rate for XYZ hotel is. I know what my rates are. No, I don't know if they have a certain company discount too. I don't know if they would let you check in 4 hours before check in. I'm not very helpful- because IT'S NOT WHERE I WORK.\nAnd they don't even do it just for hotels. I don't know if the restaurant across the street has a vegan option. Sorry that you went and store wasn't open, but I ONLY KNOW WHAT GOOGLE SAYS. Why? Because I'm not the opener/closer at said store.\n\"Will it be hard to get an uber to the airport in the morning at [rush hour]?\" Probably. But if I suggest a local ride service that does scheduled rides, I get bitched at because of the price? FINE, miss your flight. I tried to help you. No, I don't have a discount with the service. I just know they're the only reliable ones.", "156" ], [ "Fine for smoking in a room\nFirst, I need to say that in our legislation, hotels have the option to have a small amount of smoking rooms, but most hotels don't because it only causes trouble. So most hotels in the province are completly non smoking, the whole chain of hotels I worked for is non smoking.\nI was a FOM and one Sunday morning I get screamed at by 2 guests (people who lives in the province and are very aware of what I explained above), telling me that the night auditor who did their check in did not tell them the room was non smoking so I could not fine them.\nI know the night auditor, I trained them and I know they always mention it. Anyway, I tell them that even if they were not told, it is written on the key cards, there is a huge poster in the elevators and no ashtray in the room. If really they had a doubt if they were allowed to or not, they could have asked.", "806" ], [ "They decided to do it, knowing full well they were not allowed to and they thought the poor sucker at frontdesk would just let it go when they raised their voice. Therefore, I would not reverse the charge.\nSo one of the guys storms out of my office and starts taking pictures of the lobby and me and tells me that I will hear for his lawyer. Just before he went out the door I told him: \"Please don't forget to take a picture of the poster in the elevator before you leave\".\nNeedless to say, we did not hear form any lawyer. There is also the guy whose long stay was paid for by his company who asked me to change what was written on the bill for it to not say \"Smoking fee/Deep cleaning\" so the employer would pay for it.\nCome on people, take your responsability, you did not want to follow the rules, then YOU need to deal with the consequences.\nCurious to know what your politics with smoking are.", "806" ] ]

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[ [ "Leather Soled Toddler Slippers\nIntroduction: Leather Soled Toddler Slippers\nWelcome. I am a stay at home mom that loves all things crafty. Instead of buying everything, I like to figure out how to do it myself. That is why I learned to crochet. My instructor was Youtube.\nI also love to be cozy. I have been wearing slippers for as long as I can remember. I like the \"padraig\" style of slippers and they look so cute on babies so I learned how to make them myself. This year I also gifted slippers to some of the people on my list and they were all a big hit.\nI am going to share with you my pattern of how to make slippers with leather soles for a toddler. My toddler's foot is 5 inches long and he is 2 years old. This pattern is quite quick and easy to crochet. It only took me about a half an hour to crochet each slipper.\nStitches Used\nCh - chain\nSt - stitch\nSlst - slip stitch\nSC - single crochet\nHDC - half double crochet\nSC2tog - single crochet two together\nHDC2tog - half double crochet two together\nNOTES:\nAll rows start in the same stitch as the chain stitch in the beginning of each row.\nThe chain stitch at the beginning of each row does not count as a stitch.\nThe last slip stitch in each row does not count as a stitch.\nMake sure your slip stitch is nice and tight so the back of the heel looks nice and clean.\nIf you want to make the slippers a bit bigger or smaller, add or subtract evenly to the SC in each row.\nSupplies\nYarn: Super Bulky #6 (I used Lion Brand Yarns in Milwaukee Midnight)\nCrochet Hook Size: 4.5mm hook and 5.0mm hook\nTapestry Needle\nScissors\nLeather Hand Hole Puncher\nLeather scraps\nSherpa like scraps (or something warm and similar)\nRubber Cement Glue\nCording\nFoot template\n*All these supplies can be found at your local craft store.\nStep 1: Making a Template\nFor this step, I measured my toddlers foot. I found out that his foot was 5 inches from top to bottom. So I drew out a foot on a piece of paper that was 5 inches long. There are many foot patterns online. You just need to pick the right size.\nAfter I drew out his foot, I drew the shape approximately 1/4 inch bigger. That way there is space for the holes and the leather will not easily tear.\nNext, I marked the holes to be punched out with the leather hand puncher. These were approximately 1/4 inch apart. I had 36 holes in total. I also marked the middle hole on the heel. That is my starting point for both slippers.\nStep 2: Preparing the Leather Soles\nUsing the template you just made, trace it out on to the smooth side of the leather.", "557" ], [ "You want the suede side to be on the outside for more traction. Also mark the dots. Trace out two for both feet. Make sure you trace the right shapes for the left and right foot. I had to flip my template over for that.\nNext, cut out the leather sole and punch out the holes with the leather hand puncher.\nFor the padding inside, I used a scrap piece of sherpa-like material. Cut out another template of just the inside of the foot where you want the padding to be. Trace that onto the wrong side of the sherpa-like material. Then cut that out.\nUsing the rubber cement glue, paint both the wrong sides of the sole and the padding you just cut out.\nPlace the glue side of the sherpa-like material on top of the leather material and press down.\nYou are now ready to crochet onto your soles.\nStep 3: Crocheting the Slipper Tops\nThis is the pattern for the top of the slippers.\nRow 1: Insert your 4.5mm hook into the hole marked in the middle of the heel of your leather sole. Pull the yarn through. Yarn over and pull through loop. Ch 1. SC in the remaining holes of the sole. Slst to first ch. I weaved in the tail of the yarn as I did the single crochets. You can also weave it in later. (36)\nRow 2: Ch 1, Change hooks size to slightly larger hook (5mm). SC in the same chain space you just put the slst through. SC in the remaining stitch. Slst. (36)\nRow 3: Ch 1, SC, SC2tog, SC in the next 12 sts.", "694" ], [ "Simple No-Sew Jewelry Bags\nIntroduction: Simple No-Sew Jewelry Bags\nThese simple bags make a great way to store your jewelry, give your handmade jewelry as gifts, or sell your handmade jewelry. Making them isn't hard and doesn't take a lot of time, so it saves you more time to make more jewelry!\nSupplies\n1. Hot glue gun\n2. Material in your choice of colors/patterns (I recommend using cottons and no heavy materials like denim)\n3. Yarn or Embroidery thread to match the materials\n4. Ruler\n5. Scissors\n6. Pattern pieces (included in this Instructable)\nStep 1: Measure Material\nLay the material out on a flat surface to measure out the bag size.\nI have included some patterns for sizes that I think are pretty standard jewelry bag sizes. The smaller pattern is for smaller items, the larger pattern is for larger items. If you just want the dimensions to measure for yourself, the smaller pattern is 5 inches X 5 1/4 inches, and the larger pattern is 5 1/2 inches X 6 1/2 inches.\nTrim out the material as neatly as possible, but don't fret over it.\nPlug in your hot glue gun at any time.\nStep 2: Measure String\nThis will be the pull string of the bag. On the patterns I have measurements that are what I used for my string.\nFor the large bag, I cut about 12 inches of string. For the small bag I cut about 10 inches of string.\nCut the string according to the measurements or according to what you think will be best. Remember, it should be a bit longer than the edge of the material so that it can be tightened and loosened to close and open the bag.\nStep 3: Glue the Casing\nLay the material out flat. The reverse side should be facing up!\nLay your string along the top half of the material so that there is material on both sides. You want to have about half an inch above the string so you have enough room to fold it over and make the casing.\nStarting at the end, put a small dot of hot glue beneath the string. Don't get close to the string; you will accidentally hot glue it and it won't work as a pull string.", "316" ], [ "Fold over the fabric from above the string to meet the fabric below the string, enclosing the string in a tube of fabric. Stick the fabric to the glue dot.\nMake another dot of glue next to where the material is now folded down. Fold down the top material to meet it.\nProceed this way until you reach the end. Once the hot glue is dry, pull on the string carefully to see if it slides. It should. If you got a little bit of hot glue on it and it is kinda stuck, you can pull on it a bit and it should let go.\n*The casing is the folded over material that makes a tube in the fabric where string or elastic goes. It allows the string/elastic to move freely. Waists are often made this way.\nStep 4: Glue the Middle Seam\nLay the material so the glued casing is face down.\n*TIP: Place thin cardboard or paper in the middle of the material. This will prevent you from accidentally gluing the front and back sides together.\nFold one of the sides to the middle. Pick the prettiest one because it will show on the outside.\nFold the other side to the middle as well, but overlap the first side.\nUsing the same method as before, hot glue the top piece to the bottom (the first side) by placing dots of glue in between the overlapping pieces.\nStep 5: Glue the Bottom Seam\nNow all that is left to glue is the bottom seam.\nWith the middle seam facing up to you (it should be like this unless you picked it up after the last step), place dots of hot glue all along the bottom of the fabric. Don't place it right on the edge, you need a little space so you can fold the material over.\nFold the bottom up onto the hot glue. Wait for it to dry, then place glue dots in the little open sleeve. This was the other side of the bag. Press that down and wait for it to dry.\nStep 6: Flip Inside Out\nNow all the bag has been glued.\nFlip the bag inside out by sticking your thumbs in the opening of the bag to hold it open. Using you other fingers, push the bottom of the bag up through the opening. Use your fingers to continue to push the fabric until it has all been flipped.\n*TIP: you can use a pencil or pen to push in the corners to make sure they get flipped all the way.\nStep 7: Almost Finished...", "455" ], [ "DIY Chapstick Holder From Quilting Scraps\nIntroduction: DIY Chapstick Holder From Quilting Scraps\nMy grandfather pieces quilts to keep himself busy. He makes log cabin and split rail layouts, then he sends them to someone else who quilts them. They are then sold to family and friends. In the above photos is a photo of one of his quilting squares.\nWith the tons of quilts that he makes, it results in lots of little scrap pieces. These pieces are very small and most of them are long and thin, making it a little tough to figure out what to do with them. He recently gifted us a bag of scraps, hoping we could use them.\nIn the bag were some beautiful material pieces. I especially loved a few pieces I found with a batik-type fabric (I wonder who got that quilt because I never saw it!). I was puzzling over what do with with the quilt pieces when I spotted a chapstick holder hanging on someone's purse. Bingo! The thin pieces were the perfect shape!\nObviously, you can make these out of whatever scraps you have on hand, but my scrap piece measured 2 3/4 inches wide and it was perfect for a regular sized chapstick tube. Your fabric will need to be about 10 inches long to complete the project.\nSupplies\n1. Chapstick\n2. Fabric. Your measurements should be around 2 3/4 inches wide and around 10 inches long\n3. A clip with a ring on the end of it (lobster clasp, dog chain, whatever, it doesn't matter what style of clip)\n4. A sewing machine\n5.", "787" ], [ "Sewing pins\n6. Sewing scissors or just regular scissors\nStep 1: Prep Work\nOne one end of the fabric, fold the cut edge over itself by about a 1/4 of an inch. (fold over the short end, not the long side). You can tack this down with pins if you want to, then sew it down.\nPlace the chapstick down on the material. Fold up the end you sewed so that it makes a pocket over the chapstick. This is just to give an idea of what size your fabric needs to be. Bring the opposite end over the chapstick so you know where you want to cut the fabric. It should meet the pocket end and cover the chapstick completely.\nNow, all along the long sides, fold the fabric over by about 1/8 inch and tack it down with pins. Make sure to fold the fabric so that both the seam lips are on the inside along with the lip of the last seam (see photos).\nSew that down.\nNow you have a long piece of fabric that has been cleaned up a bit. No fuzzies.\nStep 2: Making the Pocket\nOnce again, place the chapstick tube down on the fabric and fold over the \"pocket\". Make it as tall as you want it, then line up the sides seams and put a pin in them at the top.\nTake the chapstick out of the \"pocket\" and pin both sides of the pocket down, lining up the top edges of the fabric with the bottom edges.\nSew the pocket closed by lining up the sewing needle with the side seam you made in step 1 and sewing down the pocket, sealing the two layers of fabric together.\nTrim all the thread fuzzies and you should have a pocket!\nStep 3: Attaching the Clip\nTo add the key chain, scrunch up the fabric end that is opposite the pocket end and put it in the keychain ring, going under, in, and over the ring. The edge of the fabric fold should end up on the front side.\nUsing pins if you want, sew the edge of the fabric down right under the top edge of the pocket (peel back the pocket fabric so you don't catch it and accidentally sew the pocket shut). Once the fabric is let go back to its natural position, it should look like the above photos.\nNow we need to complete the chapstick holder by firmly sewing down the edges of the pocket to the edges of the keyring fold. Simply sew along your former sewing lines and go over both the corner edges of the pocket and onto the edges of the keyring fold, tacking them both down (you don't need to sew all the way up to the key ring, just enough to make it look nice and keep the ring from sliding everywhere).\nStep 4: Finished\nCongratulations! You have made something out of your quilting scraps that you will actually use!\nThat is a lot of my problem with little scraps. I could make something from them, but will I actually use it? This chapstick holder from quilt scraps is both cute and functional and you have to give it more than a glance to realize that someone made it at home and didn't purchase it.", "455" ], [ "Howl's Moving Castle Earrings- Studio Ghibli\nIntroduction: Howl's Moving Castle Earrings- Studio Ghibli\nHowl's Moving Castle is one of my favorite Studio Ghibli movies. I find it inspiring.\nOne of the most sought-after pieces of Studio Ghibli jewelry is Howl's jewelry set. They sparkle like magic and are pretty pieces in themselves without having belonged to a handsome wizard. Today I am going to show you how to make your own Howl's Moving Castle earrings. I will be publishing Instructables on the necklace and ring as well.\nSupplies\nEarrings:\n1. Clay in green\n2. Eyepins\n3. Gold hook earrings\n4. Two small glass red seed beads\n5. Wire in 24 gauge\n6. Pliers\n7. Green pastel\n8. Knife or toothpick to scrape and mix pastel\n9. Soft brush\n10. Triple Thick (or TLS for polymer clay)\nStep 1: Sculpt Teardrop Shapes\nWith the green clay, roll it between your fingers, making one end smaller than the other, to make a teardrop shape. Insert an eye pin at the top of the tear drop. Make two. They should be about as long as a quarter is from side to side.", "95" ], [ "Bake or leave to dry.\nStep 2: Adding Red Gems\nGet out the gold earring hooks, piece of wire, and the glass red seed bead. With the round nosed pliers, curl one end of the wire piece into a loop. Slide the red bead onto the wire. The loop will stop it from coming off at the end.\nTake the round nosed pliers and curl a second loop on top. You will probably have to remove your pliers and pinch it closed. Now the bead should be trapped by the two loops.\nOpen the loop on the earring hook by twisting the loop sideways where it meets. Don't pull it open. Slide on of the loops on the piece of wire onto the loop on the hook, then twist the hook closed, trapping the bead's wire loop on the hook. Do the same for both pieces.\n*If you had gold wire it would be more accurate, but I didn't have any, so I had to go with silver.\nStep 3: Attach Earrings\nGet out the dried/baked tear drop shapes. Open the loop on the eye pin on the tear drop shape. Hook it to the end loop on the bead wire, making it hang from the bottom. Close the eye pin loop.\nStep 4: Triple Thick Varnishing\nTo give them a bit of a luminescent appearance, I will be varnishing them with Triple Thick mixed with green pastel. I chose a darker shade of green pastel so that they could look like they \"glowed\" from within.\nScrap off the pastel stick into a powder. Mix this powder with a bit of Triple Thick varnish. Continue mixing until you get an even color.\nWith a brush, apply the colored Triple Thick to the teardrop shapes. Be careful not to overwork it; you can go back and add another coat later, but if you keep brushing what you have applied it will become lumpy.\nI applied three coats in total.\nStep 5: The Earrings of <PERSON>\nAnd there you have it! You have these magical earrings. You can sport your Studio Ghibli style without screaming, \"I love Studio Ghibli!\" (even if you might want to). These earrings can be worn to formal events without standing out as fan jewelry and still being pretty.\nI have another Studio Ghibli tutorial already published here. I am working on more Instructables about <PERSON>'s jewelry.\nGo clay today!", "902" ], [ "Flowers From Recycled Material\nIntroduction: Flowers From Recycled Material\nWhen you can’t donate a piece of clothing because it is slightly damaged. Or you have lots of scraps left from other project, don’t throw them away. You can make it into a pretty flower.\nHere I turned some scraps of material into a ponytail holder.\nSupplies\n1-Any unwanted shirts or scraps of textile\n2-Ruler\n3-Round shaped objects to help you draw circles (2 -4 inches in diameter) (½ to 1 ¼ diameter for smaller circles)\n4-Pair of scissors\n5-Needle and thread\n6-A piece of cardboard\n7-Some polyester stuffing or yarn or cotton balls\n8a-glue gun ( optional) Or 8b- any other glue for fabric\n9-A plastic mat ( to protect your table when you use the glue gun).\nStep 1: Cutting the Pattern for the Flowers\nHere I use a 2 ¼ diameter circle for the petals and 1 ¼ diameter circle for the center of the flower. You can use any size you like. It depends on the amount of material scraps you have.\n1. Trace the circles. You need 5 large and 2 small.\n2. After tracing, cut the circles as closely to the line as you can.\nStep 2: Cutting the Cardboard\nWe use a cardboard ( any thickness you like) to support the center of the flower. We found a 0.02 mm thick instruction card.\n1. Cut out 2 pieces of ½ inch diameter circles.\nStep 3: Making the Petals\n1. Take 1 large circle, fold it into half and then into quarters. Rub over the folds. This is to get a crease on the material.\n2. Bring the opening of the material to face you, so that you can see a cross design as shown in the picture.\n3. Add the stuffing.\n4. Get your needle and thread and do a running stitch.\n**Note - a running stitch is a simple stitch by passing the needle in and out of the fabric at a regular distance.\n5. At the end of the material, pull the thread. The opening of the petal will closed up.\n6. Repeat the same steps for the next 5 petals.\nStep 4: Stitching the Petals Together\nWhen you have 5 petals ready, connect the last petals to the first petals by sticking it together.\nStep 5: Make the Center of the Flower\n1. Take the card board circle. Add a small dab of glue ( fiber glue or glue gun)\n2.", "294" ], [ "Stick a small amount of stuffing onto the cardboard.\n3. Place the smaller cloth circle on top of the stuffing.\n4. Turn the project over, and do a running stitch along the edge of the cloth circle.\n5. When you reach the end, just pull the thread together and you will create a pouch and enclose the stuffing.\n6. Do a few stitches to close the opening. Make a knot and cut off the thread\n7. Place the center of the flower to the position you like. You can stitch the center to the flower petals or use the glue to stick them together.\nStep 6: Making the Baking for the Flower\n1.Take the remaining pieces of small circle ( cloth and card board).\n2.Place some glue on the center of one side of the cardboard. Glue the cloth to it.\n3.Turn it around and glue the edges of the cloth over the cardboard.\n4. When you reached the last portion to fold the cloth over, make a small slit on the cloth so you can get a nicer finish.\n5. Place more glue on the side with the card board still showing and then glue to the back of the flower.\n6. Your fiber flower is done.\nStep 7: Assembling\nTake a small scrap of material of your choice. Can be a ribbon or same material. I have lots of extra scraps left.\n1. Fold the edges to make it neater and then glued the folds together.\n2. Glued the ponytail tie/band to the scrap of material you are using.\n3. Glue the flat side of it to the back of the flower.\n4. Let it dry. You have your own unique ponytail tie now.\nStep 8: Finished Product\nI used a glue gun to help stick my flowers to other material . You are free to choose whatever type of glue you have handy.\nI glued my to a ponytail band / tie. And also to a hook to hook it onto bags.", "694" ], [ "Recycled Shirt to a Tissue Box Holder\nIntroduction: Recycled Shirt to a Tissue Box Holder\nUse your worn out or torn button down shirt and make it into a cool tissue box. Hang it in the car or a convenient spot to access the tissue.\nThis is a simple and fast project. You can use a sewing machine to stitch the material together or use a fabric glue to glue the seams together.\nSupplies\n1- a shirt\n2- scissor\n3- a sewing machine or a glue gun or fabric glue\n4-Straight ruler\n5-pen\n6-box of tissue\n7- needle and thread\n8- button ( will be from the shirt)\n9- Velcro if you don’t want to see a button.\nStep 1: Measurements\nThe way I measure if I have enough material for my project is simple. It’s like wrapping a present.\nI placed the box on the shirt I am using.\nHere is a size 10 youth shirt. We are using the front of the shirt with the buttons. That helps to reduce the amount of sewing or cutting.\nIf the material is sufficient to cover the box with overlaps, then the shirt is suitable.\nStep 2: Cutting\nNext , cut out the rectangular shape cloth from the shirt.\nStep 3: Assemble Before Stitching\nBefore we stitch the pieces together, we will check how much extra material we have.\nWe want the cover to be snug with a little room but not too loose.\nPlace the front of the shirt over tissue box. Making sure the opening of the tissue box lined up with the shirt /button flap. Centered it.\nTurn it over . Check that the center of the box is still aligned with the shirt flap.\nBring the 2 flaps of materials over the back of the box.\nUse a Bobby pin to hold the flaps together. This will show you where you should be stitching or gluing the seams.\nRemove the tissue box carefully.\nStep 4: Stitching / Gluing\nIf you don’t own a sewing machine, you can use any fabric glue to stick the seams together. Just glue the parts that show me stitching with a sewing machine.\n1- make sure the button ( opening) aligned ( photo 1) with the back seam that is held together with Bobby pins. (Photo 2)\n2- stitch the 2 flaps held together by the Bobby pins ( Photo 3)\nStep 5: Stitching/ Gluing 2\nNext we will stitch both ends and it will create a gusset.\n1- take one end of the project and stitch / glue them together.", "748" ], [ "It will look like a sack. There is the opening on the other end.\n2- there are 2 triangle shapes formed where you stitched the seams. We will stitch it to form\nthe gusset so it will fit the tissue box snuggly\nStep 6: Stitching the Gussets\n1- Place the tissue box into the cover you just made, push it to the end. You will see there are 2 triangle shaped pieces.\n2- fold the triangle inwards . Use a Bobby pin to pin it down. Next use a thread and needle to stitch it together. Or use the glue to glue it.\n3- repeat on the other triangle.\n4- when you are done. Take out the tissue box and sew the other end together ( repeat step 5 & 6)\nStep 7: Almost Done\nOnce both ends are stitched together, you will flip the cover back to inside is in.\nNow your tissue cover is complete as it is. Put in a box of tissue.\nIf you want to make it as a hanging tissue box cover, you will do the next step.\nStep 8: Making the Straps for Hanging\nFind more material scraps to make the straps.\nFold in the edge of the material to prevent the material from fraying. Press it down to make a crease.\nUse Bobby pins to hold the folds down.\nThen stitch or glue both edges together.\nStep 9: Attached the Strap\nStitch one end of the strap to one end of the tissue cover. This end should be closer to button hole that is closer to end.\nStitch the button on to the other end of the strap. You can use a Velcro to replace this step if you don’t want to use the button.\nTo fasten the strap to a spot you like, unbutton and wrap the strap and then button it.\nStep 10: Tissue Box Holder for the Car\nI wrapped the strap around the metal pole under the front passenger head rest.", "748" ], [ "Upcycled Skirt\nIntroduction: Upcycled Skirt\nA great way to reduce your impact and avoid fast fashion is to modify your unwanted/damaged clothes into something you will actually wear.\nThis is a simple way to turn a dress into a wearable skirt!\nYou will need:\n* Old/unused dress\n* Sewing machine\n* Quick-unpick\n* Elastic\n* Pins\nStep 1: Unpick at the Seam\nUsing a quick unpick, separate the top and bottom of the dress by unpicking the seam (if there isn't a seam you can use fabric scissors to cut it)\nStep 2: Remove Stray Thread\nRemove any leftover thread by pulling it out or cutting it off.\nStep 3: Neaten the Edges\nNeaten the unpicked edge using a zig zag stitch. Try to sew as close to the edge as you can.\nStep 4: Making the Skirt\nTurn the skirt inside out\nStep 5: Measuring the Length of the Fold\nPlace the elastic across the top of the skirt, leaving a 1cm gap above.", "316" ], [ "Mark the bottom of the elastic with a pin.\nFold the top of the skirt over the pin. Pin it in place.\nStep 6: Sewing the Waist Band\nSew along the edge of the fold, around most of the waist band. Make sure to leave a gap at the end.\nStep 7: Inserting the Elastic\nCut the elastic the length of the waist band\nPlace a safety pin on one end of the elastic.\nUse the safety pin to push the elastic through the gap, into the waist band.\nStep 8: Pushing the Elastic Through\nPull the elastic through the waist band by scrunching the fabric along it and then straightening it out\nDo this until it comes out the other side of the gap\nStep 9: Close the Gap\nFold both ends of the elastic into the gap.\nSew underneath the elastic to close the gap.\nRearrange the fabric around the elastic to make sure it fits the way you want.\nSew a line, vertically down the fabric where the two ends overlap, to hold the elastic in place.\nStep 10: Finished Skirt\nYou now have a finished skirt, ready to wear!", "748" ], [ "Reversible Fleece Face Mask\nIntroduction: Reversible Fleece Face Mask\nIn Covid times, it is necessary for us to wear face masks at all times while in public. This face mask is made of fleece for the winter season and is reversible giving you a two for one. Some people like to match face masks with their apparel. I made this face mask with a solid on one side and a printed pattern on the other side.\nSupplies\nFleece: ¼ yard of a solid fleece and ¼ yard of a printed pattern fleece OR If you have scrap fleece, then cut a total of 4 pieces 8” square – 2 squares of the solid and 2 squares of the printed pattern.\nElastic: 2 - 6.5” pieces for women OR 2 – 8” pieces for men.\nThread: select color that matches your fleece\nTape Measure\nScissors\nPins\nSewing Machine\nIroning Board and Iron\nPrinter Paper: 1 sheet to make the pattern.\nPencil or Pen\nStep 1: Make Your Pattern\n1. On the straight edge of the printer paper, measure and mark 3.5” centered on the page.\n2. From the center point of the 3.5” straight edge, measure straight out 5.25” and made a mark. Also, make a mark at the 4.25” spot.\n3. From the 4.25” mark, you will draw a line from top to bottom that is 6.25” long centering it at 3 1/8” as shown in the picture.\n4. Looking at the picture, sketch out the curves from point to point as shown.\n5. Cut out the pattern and then fold it in half bring the top down to the bottom.\n6. Trim up the pattern so that it will be perfectly symmetrical.\nStep 2: Cutting Your Fabric\n1. With right sides together of the solid fabric, pin your pattern so the 3.5” line is placed on the grain of the fabric.\n2. Cut fabric 3/8” around the pattern to allow for the seam.\n3. Repeat this for the printed fabric.\n4.", "673" ], [ "When finished cutting, you will have 2 solid pieces and 2 printed pieces of fleece.\nStep 3: Sewing Curve on Each Piece\n1. With right sides together, pin the large curve of both pieces (solid and printed) together and sew a 3/8” seam from top to bottom.\n2. Clip the curve close to the seam to allow for flexibility.\n3. With the iron press seam open on both pieces.\nStep 4: Sewing Solid to Printed Piece\n1. Pin both pieces together with right sides together matching up at the seams.\n2. Sew the top piece, then sew the bottom part of the mask leaving the small sides open.\n3. Turn face mask right side out and shape the mask by smoothing out fabric seams.\n4. Press seams with an iron to keep its shape.\nStep 5: Sewing in the Elastic\n1. On each open end, turn under ½” and press again with the iron.\n2. Cut elastic (6.5\" for women, 8\" for men) and pin to both side ends with a ½” of elastic inserted inward. Do this for both sides keeping the elastic untwisted and the same for each side.\n3. Sew across both ends and backstitch from start to finish for strength.\n4. Press seams. Your face mask is done!\nStep 6: Finished Project\nFace mask is reversible, warm, and comfy. And of course, it should be washed before flipping it to the other side.", "316" ] ]

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[ [ "The Zone of Interest\nSinglehandedly shatters the film industry’s entire history of exploiting the Holocaust for narrative, right down to attacking every minutiae of cinematic language itself. All of this is in service of the most startling horror, all of which goes unseen. Far and away the single most vital and important movie made this decade thus far.", "269" ], [ "The ending of this left me feeling nauseous and at a loss for words. Contains one of the most striking uses of on screen subtitles I’ve ever seen in any film ever made. Would make for a psychosis inducing double bill with Skinamarink.", "958" ], [ "Ferrari\n“Our deadly passion. Our terrible joy.”\nContains one of the most earned and deeply affecting moments of shock and horror I have ever seen in any movie. <PERSON> has stripped away any remnants of romanticism in service of what is probably his most upsetting work to date.", "1016" ], [ "In doing so, he has found new chameleon like muses in <PERSON> and <PERSON>, both of whom give career defining performances. Nowhere near as formally showy as <PERSON>’s other films, and yet it still contains some of the most striking images in his entire catalogue. Simply earth shattering.", "464" ], [ "Hi, Mom!\nTwo perfectly good, separate, movies; short films even, coexist in 86 minutes of runtime in <PERSON> Hi, Mom!. The only problem is that this isn’t two movies. While both parts are brilliant in their own ways, they simply do not fit. It’s pretty upsetting.", "698" ], [ "<PERSON> futile yet unique attempts to make a porno surely makes an amazing comedy, and his radical theatrical production and later guerilla warfare make for a hugely theoretical and impactful political thriller of sorts, but there simply isn’t enough reason for these stories to intersect. It doesn’t feel like one movie. Because it shouldn’t be. If you split this film in half I’d give each half a higher rating than this. It’s a single flaw, but it’s a pretty damn big one.", "698" ], [ "Anatomy of a Fall\nA movie about how deeply unserious and misogynistic the French are.\nIt doesn’t really do much new that other family-centered courtroom dramas haven’t done better save for exposing the many, often tiny biases against women that are engrained in society. The opposite of that same preconception that helps <PERSON>’s case in Kramer vs. Kramer mixed with <PERSON>’s uphill battle in Marriage Story.\nFunny how mockumentary-ish the filmmaking was at points, which was clearly meant to evoke immediacy but instead took me out of it.", "306" ], [ "It works to its favor that it’s helmed by an immaculate leading performance. <PERSON> carefully balances fear and doubt and so much constrained emotion. She probably won this the Palm d’Or all by herself.", "464" ], [ "Once Upon a Time in the West\nA railroad is such a perfect symbol. Having it as the centerpiece of your film does half your thematic work for you. It’s a paradox of progress and colonial destruction. And as with all engines of progress and colonialism it has its dark personalities outside the official political structures, personified by <PERSON> here.\nThe main strength of Once Upon a Time in the West is not its themes though.", "352" ], [ "It’s the basics of image and sound, culminating in one of the most impactful moments in cinematic storytelling. The “keep your lovin brother happy” scene is practically worth 5 stars on it’s own. An example of cinematic mastery. And it’s no shock that <PERSON>’s score is sheer perfection at this moment and every other one for that matter. But the film as a whole falls about one star short of that moment.\nStill, an all time great Western.", "529" ], [ "The Zone of Interest\nSince the pure excess of Hacksaw Ridge back in 2016, I've found myself really grappling with the idea of the war film as spectacle. How do we ultimately come around to a conclusion about the strength of the human spirit and the horrors of war while simultaneously relishing in the bombast and inherent theatricality of large scale destruction? The Zone of Interest sees this interrogation through to the ultimate conclusion by backgrounding nearly all of the visceral depictions of the Holocaust into something surveillance-like and detached.\nIn doing this, I'm still trying to explain exactly how the experience of watching this \"imagined\" violence differs from seeing everything carried out in extreme detail.", "133" ], [ "The sickly feeling is still there, even though I'm not able to conjure any specific visual moment within my mind. It's a feeling that caught me off-guard, and has further entangled my thoughts on war film-making as an artistic entity. For what is seeks to do, The Zone of Interest is an extremely effective exercise in horror through sound design and subtractive imagery.", "645" ], [ "The Hospital\nThis was significantly better than the last Hiller I saw and I would even say that’s it’s far and away Chayefsky‘s best script. That is not to say that the film is good though.", "596" ], [ "The script mostly sings, but there’s occasional moments of being lamed such as the stupid psych scene. Also, despite her best efforts <PERSON>’ whole character is awful with the film openly and heroically admitting to rape in as grotesque and unnecessary a way as possible.\nThe film looks dull and unrefined to the point I’m shocked <PERSON> lenses this. <PERSON> must have an amazing ability to take away the talent of all who come into his orbit.\nPretty much the only person left unscathed by this mess is <PERSON> who gives it his all and utterly convinced me that some reality was being plumbed somewhere here.", "132" ], [ "<PERSON>: Part One\nMore of a journalistic recreation of a Wikipedia article than a movie, but it kind of lands due to the magnitude of it all. It has no characters, just historical figures, but it works with the overall approach.", "698" ], [ "It’s meant to make you feel like a witness of history. <PERSON> embodies <PERSON> as much as he obscures him, feeding into the myth.\nHilarious how neither <PERSON> nor <PERSON> could stick with an accent for <PERSON>, but at least <PERSON>’s has been living abroad for a while. What’s <PERSON>’s excuse?", "585" ] ]

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[ [ "This is a key plot point: <PERSON> never even thinks of the possibility that the <PERSON> will try to destroy the <PERSON>. He cannot imagine somebody voluntarily giving up that much power. From the book:\n<PERSON>: For he is very wise, and weighs all things to a nicety in the scales of his malice. But the only measure that he knows is desire, desire for power, and so he judges all hearts. Into his heart thought will not enter than any will refuse it, that having the Ring we may seek to destroy it. If we seek this, we shall put him out of his reckoning.\nAfter the Fellowship split, <PERSON> and <PERSON> work hard to maintain this deception. They want <PERSON> to believe that <PERSON> has the Ring.\nWhen <PERSON> uses the Palantir at Isengard, <PERSON> sees a hobbit for a few seconds. He thinks that <PERSON> has captured the Ringbearer.\nAfter <PERSON> is destroyed, <PERSON> uses the Palantir to taunt <PERSON>. From that moment, <PERSON> believes that <PERSON> has the Ring.\n<PERSON> then does exactly what he knows <PERSON> expects him to do if he had the Ring: raise an army and march to the Black Gate to make a frontal assault on Mordor. This was a terrible risk, taken to keep <PERSON>'s attention and forces focused on <PERSON>.\nAnd note one more point: <PERSON> was right. Nobody could voluntarily destroy the Ring.", "773" ], [ "When the time came to throw the Ring into the fire, <PERSON> could not do it. If <PERSON> had not been there, <PERSON> would indeed have succumbed to the <PERSON>'s temptation and tried to wield its power.\nIn a letter to a reader, <PERSON> described what would have happened next. <PERSON> would have immediately sent the eight surviving Nazgul.\nI think they would have shown 'servility'. They would have greeted <PERSON> as 'Lord'. With fair speeches they would have induced him to leave the Sammath Naur [Mount Doom] - for instance 'to look upon his new kingdom, and behold afar with his new sight the abode of power that he must now claim and turn to his own purposes'. Once outside the chamber while he was gazing some of them would have destroyed the entrance. [...] In any case a confrontation of <PERSON> and <PERSON> would soon have taken place, if the Ring was intact. Its result was inevitable. <PERSON> would have been utterly overthrown: crushed to dust, or preserved in torment as a gibbering slave. <PERSON> would not have feared the Ring! It was his own and under his will. <PERSON> Letters 246", "381" ], [ "In Appendix B to \"The Return of the King\", the August 3018 entry briefly mentions how <PERSON> hid in Moria to evade both the Elves and the servants of Sauron who hunted him, and how he was unable to leave through the West-Gate (the gate through which the Fellowship entered) when he finally found it.\nThe background material published as \"The Hunt for the Ring\" in \"Unfinished Tales\" goes into a bit more detail. <PERSON> entered Moria not only to hide from his enemies -- particularly from the <PERSON>, who were searching for the Shire along the Great River -- but also in hope of crossing the Misty Mountains westward in order to find the Shire and the Ring himself.\nWhat then happened to <PERSON> cannot of course be known for certain. He was peculiarly fitted to survive in such straits, though at the cost of great misery; but he was in great peril of discovery by the servant of Sauron that lurked in Moria, especially since such bare necessity of food as he must have he could only get by thieving dangerously. ... he became lost, and it was a very long time before he found his way about. It thus seems probable that he had not long made his way toward the West-Gate when the Nine Walkers arrived. He knew nothing, of course, about the action of the doors. To him they would seem huge and immovable; and though they had no lock or bar and opened outwards to a thrust, he did not discover that. In any case, he was now far away from any source of food, for the Orcs were mostly in the East End of Moria, and was become weak and desperate, so that even if he had known all about the doors he still could not have thrust them open. It was thus a piece of singular good fortune for <PERSON> that the Nine Walkers arrived when they did.\nStil in the vicinity of the gate, <PERSON> quickly picked up the Company's trail; <PERSON> already hears his footsteps before they make their first stop for sleep several hours after entering the Mines (as confirmed by the entry for January 13, 3019 in \"The Tale of the Years\": \"Attack by Wolves in the early hours.", "381" ], [ "The Company reaches the West-Gate at nightfall. <PERSON> begins to trail the Ringbearer\"). The passage quoted above suggests that <PERSON>, by then desperate to get out, would have followed anybody. But it didn't take him long to feel or guess that his Precious was with the party: he somehow found his way out of Moria despite the attack on the Fellowship and later that same day dared to enter the (to him) terrible Elvish land of Lothlorien. The idea of escape had quickly given way to pursuit of the <PERSON>.\nHow did he know the Ring was with the Company? I discount the idea that he could sense it as the <PERSON> could: during the Riddle Game <PERSON> stood right in front of him with the <PERSON> in his pocket, yet at its end <PERSON> failed to guess it was in there in 4 tries. But the sight of <PERSON>, who had quizzed him extensively about the Precious, leading a party that included no less than 4 hobbits might have been a good hint.\nIn the end, though, I think <PERSON> must have perceived a resemblance between <PERSON> and <PERSON>. He wasn't in any doubt as to which hobbit had the Ring: he tried to climb the tree <PERSON> is in the first night in Lorien, and later he unerringly followed <PERSON> when the Fellowship broke above Rauros Falls. <PERSON>'s ability to track them seems to have been based mainly on scent (in the Emyn Muil, <PERSON> says \"In this dry bleak land we can't leave many footprints, nor much scent, even for his snuffling nose\"). However much or little <PERSON> and <PERSON> looked alike, it could well be that they smelt enough alike to <PERSON>. I would also note that, besides the Ring, <PERSON> carried 2 of <PERSON>'s other belongings. <PERSON> had never worn the mithril coat all that much and had left it in a museum for decades, so I don't see how it could have carried much of his scent by the time of <PERSON>'s journey to Mordor.", "381" ], [ "<PERSON> knew that without a Great Ring of his own he was no match, power against power, for even a Ring-less <PERSON>. But he had concluded that the West no longer had any hope of resisting <PERSON>. If he could not defeat <PERSON> himself by making his own Great Ring or (better yet) finding <PERSON>'s, then he thought the smart thing was to become <PERSON>'s ally -- with the long-term plan of using his own ability to persuade and manipulate to become the power behind <PERSON>'s throne. As <PERSON> said to <PERSON>,\n\"A new Power is rising. Against it the old allies and policies will not avail us at all. There is no hope left in Elves or dying Numenor. This then is one choice before you, before us. We may join with that Power. ...", "381" ], [ "As the Power grows, its proved friends will also grow; and the Wise, such as you and I, may with patience come at last to direct its courses, to control it.\" -- from \"The Council of Elrond\", The Fellowship of the Ring\nWhether <PERSON> was really capable of pulling that off, as he believed he could, is another story. But at the least, that policy would have bought him time to continue his efforts to make his own Great Ring and/or locate the One Ring.\n<PERSON>, for his part, was merely following his usual policy of dividing his enemies. One of the Elves of Lothlorien remarks, \"Indeed in nothing is the power of the Dark Lord more clearly shown than in the estrangement that divides all those who still oppose him.\" The original distribution of the Rings to the Dwarf lords and to Men was another example of the same general divide-and-conquer policy.\n<PERSON> suggested that <PERSON> used both promises and threats when dealing with <PERSON> through the Palantiri: \"he [<PERSON>] has been persuaded from afar, and daunted when persuasion would not serve.\" (\"The Palantir\", The Two Towers).\nNot that <PERSON>'s promises ever worked out well for anybody but him. <PERSON> bargained with <PERSON> to reveal <PERSON>'s hidden camp if he could be re-united with his wife <PERSON>:\nThen <PERSON> smiled, saying: \"That is a small price for so great a treachery. So shall it surely be. Say on!\" Now <PERSON> would have drawn back, but daunted by the eyes of <PERSON> he told at last all that he would know. Then <PERSON> laughed; and he mocked <PERSON>, and revealed to him that he had seen only a phantom devised by wizardry to entrap him; for <PERSON> was dead. \"Nonetheless I will grant thy prayer,\" said <PERSON>; \"and thou shalt go to <PERSON> and be set free of my service.\" Then he put him cruelly to death. -- \"The Tale of Beren and Luthien\", from The Silmarillion", "381" ], [ "Probably because <PERSON> considered <PERSON>'s Ring useless to him. <PERSON> says of the Three Rings generally,\n[T]hey were not made as weapons of war or conquest: that is not their power. Those who made them did not desire strength or domination ... but understanding, making, and healing, to preserve all things unstained.\nfrom \"The Council of Elrond\" in \"The Fellowship of the Ring\"\nAt the time he gave it to him, <PERSON> tells <PERSON> about <PERSON> specifically,\nFor this is the Ring of Fire, and with it you may rekindle hearts in a world that grows chill.\nfrom \"The Tale of the Years\", Appendix B to \"The Return of the King\"\n<PERSON>'s words suggest that Narya's most important power (or at least its power that would be most important to <PERSON>) is an ability to awaken hope and the will to survive in the hopeless. No doubt its power was at work when <PERSON> and the knights of Dol Amroth rallied the spirits of despairing Gondorians during the siege of Minas Tirith.\n<PERSON>, as Middle-Earth's second greatest authority on the Rings of Power, would have known all this; and known, too, that the Three Rings of the Elves \"endure no evil\", as <PERSON> says to <PERSON>. Perhaps this last consideration carried weight with him.", "381" ], [ "His words to <PERSON>\nWe can bide our time, ... deploring maybe evils done by the way, but approving the high and ultimate purpose: Knowledge, Rule, Order\nfrom \"The Council of Elrond\"\nshow that he is aware that he is doing evil, whether or not he still deceives himself that good is his ultimate aim.\n<PERSON> characterizes <PERSON> thus:\nHe is plotting to become a Power. He has a mind of metal and wheels; and he does not care for growing things, except as far as they serve him for the moment.\nfrom \"Treebeard\" in \"The Two Towers\"\n<PERSON>'s attempt to desolate The Shire seems to bear out <PERSON>'s description. Making, healing, and understanding are not high on his priority list.\nIn any case, at the time <PERSON> captured <PERSON> he hoped for either of 2 outcomes: if <PERSON> triumphed, to use the power of his Voice to become the power behind <PERSON>'s throne; or to use the One Ring to crush <PERSON> and become ruler of Middle Earth in his own right. <PERSON> knows that even with the Ring of Fire, <PERSON> is no match for <PERSON>; he probably won't be either, so it can't help him defeat <PERSON>. Nor was it likely to help him manipulate <PERSON>; and in the event of <PERSON> becoming <PERSON>'s servant, there would be a very real danger of <PERSON> discovering that his new adviser possessed one of the Three Rings -- with probable bad consequences for <PERSON> and his plans.", "381" ], [ "<PERSON>'s wisdom was vastly diminished compared to that of <PERSON> the Maia (<PERSON>).\n<PERSON> says this of the nature of Ainur, comparing the glory of King <PERSON> at his peak to the inhabitants of the West .\nIn Beleriand King <PERSON> upon his throne was as the lords of the Maiar, whose power is at rest, whose joy is as an air that they breathe in all their days, whose thought flows in a tide untroubled from the heights to the deeps.\n-Page 59,The Silmarillion\nSo we can expect that as one of the Ainur who had participated in the Song of Creation, <PERSON> had great knowledge of the workings of the Arda and some limited foreknowledge according to his stature on <PERSON>'s grand plan for Eä and of the events that were to come to pass on Middle Earth.\nHowever late into the third age when the Maiar who would later become the Five Istari were called upon to journey into Middle Earth to lead the resistance against the growing power of Sauron, they were required to give up most of their Maia powers and take up mortal forms to dwell among the inhabitants of Middle Earth. Undoubtedly though their wisdom was far superior to that of an ordinary mortal, their taking up mortal forms had come at the cost of a surrender of their natural Maia state of mind.\nIt was resolved to send out three emissaries to Middle-earth. 'Who would go? For they must be mighty, peers of <PERSON>, but must forgo might, and clothe themselves in flesh so as to treat on equality and win the trust of Elves and Men. But this would imperil them, dimming their wisdom and knowledge, and confusing them with fears, cares, and weariness coming from the flesh.' But two only came forward: <PERSON>, who was chosen by <PERSON>, and <PERSON>, who was sent by <PERSON>. Then <PERSON> asked, where was <PERSON>? And <PERSON>...", "381" ], [ "asked what <PERSON> would have of him. <PERSON> replied that he wished <PERSON> to go as the third messenger to Middle-earth... But <PERSON> replied that he was too weak for such a task, and that he feared <PERSON>. Then <PERSON> said that was all the more reason why he should go...\n-Page 393, Unfinished Tales\nThus we can conclude that the wisdom and foresight of <PERSON> while being vastly superior to all but the greatest among the Men and Elves was still greatly diminished when he came to Middle Earth. His ability to see into the future would have correspondingly been limited by the constraints placed on his earthly mind.", "381" ], [ "I see that scene as a visible manifestation of <PERSON>'s identity crisis.\n<PERSON> was born to be <PERSON>, son of <PERSON>, son of <PERSON>, King under the Mountain, but this was denied by the coming of <PERSON> and the sack of Erebor.\nAt the battle of Azanulbizar at the eastern gate of Moria he earns himself the name of <PERSON> thanks to his duel against <PERSON>, which turned the tide of the battle and gained the dwarves a victory, though a bitter one because of their heavy losses.\nAt that point, as he strongly believes his father to be still alive, <PERSON> does not consider himself a king - not even a king in exile -, even if that's actually how the other dwarves see him:\n[<PERSON>:] “That is when I saw him: a young dwarf prince facing down <PERSON>.”\n[...]\n[<PERSON>:] And I thought to myself then, there is one who I could follow. There is one I could call King.”\n(from AUJ)\n[Dwalin] “You were always my king. You used to know that once.”\n(from BOTFA)\nFrom his own point of view he is <PERSON>, the one who defeated <PERSON>. The fact that he kept the oaken branch, carving it into a proper shield and adding metal spikes, is a visual clue of how much he clings to that title, valuing that duel more than anything else he accomplished.\nNote that, once again, the other dwarves think otherwise:\n[Balin:] “You don’t have to do this. You have a choice. You’ve done honorably by our people. You have built a new life for us in the Blue Mountains, a life of peace and plenty. A life that is worth more than all the gold in Erebor.”\n(from AUJ)\nIn goblin town, the Great Goblin malevolently rubs salt into the wound:\n[Great Goblin:] Well, well, well, look who it is.", "381" ], [ "<PERSON> son of <PERSON>, son of <PERSON>; King under the Mountain.\nOh, but I’m forgetting, you don’t have a mountain. And you’re not a king. Which makes you nobody, really.\nBut <PERSON> is far more shocked to learn about <PERSON>:\n[Great Goblin:] I know someone who would pay a pretty price for your head. Just the head, nothing attached. Perhaps you know of whom I speak, an old enemy of yours. <PERSON> astride a White Warg.\n[Thorin:] “<PERSON> the Defiler was destroyed. He was slain in battle long ago.”\n[Great Goblin:] “So you think his defiling days are done, do you?”\nAnd finally, the scene in question: <PERSON> finds out that <PERSON> is still alive, and stronger than him.\nHis most valued deed is worthless, his battle title means nothing. He will later say <PERSON>:\n[<PERSON>:] “Do not speak to me as if I was some lowly dwarf lord…”\n“As-As if I were still...<PERSON>...<PERSON>.”\n“I AM YOUR KING!”\n(from BOTFA)\nHis losing the physical oaken shield parallels his losing the identity of <PERSON> - the war hero - after having already lost his kingship. Now he must desperately fulfil his quest to reclaim Erebor, in order to prove his value.\nSources:\n* AUJ fan transcript\n* DOS fan transcript\n* BOTFA fan transcript", "381" ], [ "The Doom of Man, the mortality of humans, is a recurring theme in <PERSON>'s writing.\nThe Elves, of course, are immortal. They don't die in flesh from natural causes, only from violence (or heartbreak). But even when they do, their spirits go to the Halls of Mandos, where they spend some time but sometimes come back again, if not immediately, then after the end of the world. For <PERSON>, immortality isn't physical immortality, but a return of the spirit into the grand scheme of things, again and again.\nFor the Elves die not till the world dies, unless they are slain or waste in grief [...] and dying they are gathered to the halls of Mandos in Valinor, whence they may in time return.\n(Quenta Silmarillion, Chapter 1: Of The Beginning of Days)\nSo, to establish the basic concepts we'll use, immortality, in <PERSON>'s works, means being tied to the world, to the fate of <PERSON>. Not dying in flesh is a part of it, but the essence is having your spirit wait until needed again.\nOf the Fate of the Dwarves\nThe Dwarves are a bit of a complicated issue. They were made by <PERSON> against the wishes of <PERSON>, and he is responsible for their fate:\nAforetime it was held among the Elves in Middle-earth that dying the Dwarves returned to the earth and the stone of which they were made; yet that is not their own belief. For they say that <PERSON> the Maker, whom they call <PERSON>, cares for them, and gathers them to <PERSON> in halls set apart; and that he declared to their Fathers of old that Ilúvatar will hallow them and give them a place among the Children in the End. Then their part shall be to serve <PERSON> and to aid him in the remaking of Arda after the Last Battle.\n(Quenta Silmarillion, Chapter 2: Of Yavanna and Aulë)\nSo regarding your second question, the dwarves are also immortal, in the same sense as the Elves: even if they die, their spirit lives on.", "381" ], [ "They share the same ties to the world of Arda that the elves do.\nOf the Doom of Man\nBut humans are a different matter:\nWhat may befall their spirits after death the Elves know not. Some say that they too go to the halls of Mandos; but their place of waiting there is not that of the Elves, and Mandos under Ilúvatar alone save <PERSON> knows whither they go after the time of recollection in those silent halls beside the Outer Sea. None have ever come back from the mansions of the dead, save only <PERSON> son of <PERSON>, whose hand had touched a Silmaril; but he never spoke afterward to mortal Men. The fate of Men after death, maybe, is not in the hands of the Valar, nor was all foretold in the Music of the Ainur.\n(Quenta Silmarillion, Chapter 12: Of Men)\nSo men, unlike elves and dwarves, do die - they die entirely, and go away somewhere never to return. Some elves have expressed surprise, pity or even jealousy at this fate, but it's something that <PERSON> refers to again and again, how with their short lifespan and unknown fate, Men are driven to do more, and thus achieve more despite their drawbacks (emphases mine):\nIt is one with this gift of freedom that the children of Men dwell only a short space in the world alive, and are not bound to it, and depart soon whither the Elves know not. Whereas the Elves remain until the end of days, and their love of the Earth and all the world is more single and more poignant therefore, and as the years lengthen ever more sorrowful.\n(Quenta Silmarillion, Chapter 1: Of The Beginning of Days)\nIt's not entirely certain that men's spirits die forever when they die. It's actually hinted that they do have an afterlife somewhere. But the scope of <PERSON>'s writing is the fate of Arda and Middle Earth, and the Valar only have knowledge of that world. And the fate of Men is determined by <PERSON> and taken outside the borders of Arda, so that as far as Middle Earth is concerned, once dead, they're gone, free from worrying about the world's fate - that is why some elves see it as freedom.", "381" ], [ "Where is the deep underground place where <PERSON> and the <PERSON> ended up during their battle?\nIn \"The Two Towers\", in the chapter \"The White Rider\", <PERSON> describes his battle with the <PERSON>. He mentions being underground, deeper than even where the dwarves went.\n'We fought far under the living earth, where time is not counted. Ever he clutched me, and ever I hewed him, till at last he fled into dark tunnels. They were not made by <PERSON>'s folk, <PERSON> son of <PERSON>. Far, far below the deepest delvings of the Dwarves, the world is gnawed at by nameless things. Even <PERSON> knows them not.", "381" ], [ "They are older than he. Now I have walked there, but I will bring no report to darken the light of day. In that despair my enemy was my only hope, and I pursued him, clutching at his heel. Thus he brought me at last to the secret ways of <PERSON>: too well he knew them all. Ever up now we went, until we came to the Endless Stair.'\nClearly <PERSON> does not want to describe this place any further (he describes this place as a \"despair\", which implies it's not something he'd readily mention again), so I doubt he brings it up again later in the book, or in Return of the King (although I haven't read past \"The White Rider\" yet, and I certainly wouldn't remember something this obscure from the last time I read these books years ago).\nIs this place mentioned anywhere else in any of <PERSON>'s other works, such as the Silmarillion? Any and all further information on this place would be appreciated, as well as the \"nameless things\" that <PERSON> mentions.\nThe very similar question What is the place that <PERSON> falls to after the battle with the Balrog? identifies that it is some kind of lake, but doesn't add any further information on it besides what's in the text I've quoted. Specifically, I'm looking for any further information outside of this chapter.\nI've just found this question about the creatures, which I wanted to update this question with, since they are related.", "381" ] ]

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[ [ "They don't. No matter where you live, no matter what you do, no matter how low your profile, someone, somewhere will figure out who you are eventually. One person alone can never keep their identity secret forever. Which is why you get somebody else to keep it secret for you. Namely: governments. Now, I know what you're thinking. \"Governments are who you want to hide your identity from!\" Not necissarily right. See, people think of ET. They think shadowy men will come to your house in the dark of the night, take you away, and dissect you while you're conscious. To be fair, if you exist before the 70s or so, they probably will, but only under certain conditions.", "687" ], [ "Governments (theoretically speaking) don't dissect strange people solely because they are strange, but because they believe that by dissecting strange things they can gain access to beneficial information. The way to get the government to stop harassing you is to have something better to offer them than a chance at immortality. What about military leadership that has centuries of experience? What about a brilliant scientist who will never die? Replacing highly skilled dead people is a huge problem for upper level government function. An incredibly high skilled minister, secretary, or official who will never die would be a godsend. And few are better than the government at keeping secrets. Or, you could run down the private sector part of the skill-tree and pay the government not to dissect you. In any country without strict campaign finance laws, it isn't difficult to get the government to do what you want by making sure the people in it know they are there because you put them there and they can be replaced if you want them replaced. Either way, once you hit the late 90's, no government will be interested in doing much more than collecting a blood sample. If your immortal isn't willing to get his arm pricked or his cheek swabbed to give everyone else the same opportunity they have, maybe you've got a bit of a jerk on your hands. Although, that could make for an interesting character.", "238" ], [ "The symbol is very limited and more likely to cause a masquerade breach than to prevent it.\nThe symbol only works if it is legible. It will get you past the security guard, but dashcams, CCTV and other cheap compliance tech will make you look like a ghost by Louis Vuitton. People could also be too far away to discern the symbol, or simply hear your footsteps and the sound of breaking glass (and blast you with a shotgun through the door). If your target is important enough for the police to care, they may come to the conclusion that mind altering chemicals are involved, and the hunt is on.\nYou can't use the symbol to live the good life either, because making something uninteresting only works against people who are not paid to care. You could buy out a building and put your rune on every wall, but people working in urban planning know there is a building there, and they know it has electricity, so someone is going to want to come to your doom fortress and read the meter. If the rune makes them not want to do their job, they get fired and replaced with someone else whose first task is to come to your building and read the meter.\nThe symbol may need a redesign because it does not solve any immortal problems and only removes risk.\nImmortal life is tough for reasons unrelated to being seen physically. Not having an identity makes it very hard to exist in society and you can't put your symbol into a database record on a government server.", "89" ], [ "You will have to live in a squatted or condemned house, drive a junker car (make sure to never get into an accident) and steal your clothing. You can do these things without the symbol, it just makes you less likely to get caught.\nAnd therein lies the problem with the symbol. It does one very specific thing, which is to stop anyone from arresting you. It is extremely easy to break the masquerade if you actually go out and try to have an adventure or live a proper life, but there are no consequences to doing so.\nI would change how the symbol works entirely. Perhaps consider changing it to a name instead of a sigil, so it can be put into a database and the government will leave you alone. Names, especially unpronounceable 40 letter truenames, are harder to read off a bedsheet, so while the police may have trouble with the paperwork part of arresting you, they could most likely still shoot you. And because you could build up a life as an uninteresting person instead of having to live as a vagrant, you now have something meaningful to lose if you use the ultimate escape plan of hiding in a warded box for 50 years.", "89" ], [ "The rules keep changing.\nImagine if, in our universe, the laws of physics kept changing. E=mc^2? Oh well today it's E=mc^3. Every physics formula is subject to change without warning. Basically everything might be fine tomorrow or maybe the universe will explode.\nTurns out, magic is like that. It's energy drawn from a neighboring universe but the \"neighboring universe\" can shift from one to another at any time without warning and the new one may have completely different rules. The original magitek society was built during a time of unusual stability -- the rules for magic may well have been unchanged for thousands or millions of years and they didn't even know it could change. Until it did. When the shift occurred, the magitek devices drawing power (and, perhaps, a relative handful of sorcerers who were actively using magic when the shift occurred) experienced major malfunctions.\nMagic may be in a state of constant flux at the moment. The rules could change daily. Sorcerers can still access the energy, probe it, and use it, perhaps not unlike tapping into a totally unknown power wire where you're not sure what the volts or amps are or if it's AC vs DC. First you find out, then you buffer some energy, then you use it. That's sorcerers. They have not figured out how to make Magitek items that robust. They need a steady, known supply.", "227" ], [ "If magic settles down again, Magitek could take off again. And nothing stops you from making a device today, based on today's rules, but you don't know if it will work for an hour, a week or a month, and if it fails, you don't know how spectacular that failure will be (maybe you can invent a \"magic circuit breaker\" to avoid catastrophe but the constant shifting of rules still means your device stops working and has to be redesigned to fit the new rules, which, again, keep shifting).\n(To expand the electricity analogy, imagine trying to make a hair dryer that can work off of literally any power source. You can plug it into a USB port. Or a 120V US wall socket. Or a 240V wall socket. Or a wall socket in Japan. Or Germany. Or directly to the raw output of a nuclear power plant. It's probably possible but represents a big challenge and ultimately makes your hair dryer impractical -- you're spending more on the converters and buffers than on the device. This is what the people of this world face with magic. They can make the devices but since the properties of the power source keeps changing, the devices become something between impractical and dangerous. The sorcerers themselves might occasionally tap into the magic network and go \"Woo! Wow. Okay. Not using magic today I guess. Check back later.\")", "284" ], [ "After putting a lot of thought into this problem, and the general problem that humanity is on the brink of their own extinction (AI will surpass us, so either we join them and live forever or they destroy us), I think I've come up with a few ways to keep us safe in the short-term.\n1. Ask first. If your kid wants to use the scissors, they probably have to ask you first. That way, they don't accidentally cut their fingers off, or do anything else they're not smart enough to prevent. So, perhaps before your AI appropriates the Earth, they have to ask for it. And you say no.\n2. Checks and balances. We don't appoint a single guy as judge, jury, and executioner; similarly, why would we appoint an AI the task of optimizing a paperclip maker and operating that paperclip maker? This builds off of the previous point, that the AI should ask for permission before any of its schemes are carried out. For scalability, the designs of the AI can be passed between any number of dumber AIs or humans before it is approved to go to the machine.\nHere, it's important to note that the AI, with this amount of distance from the paperclip maker, is no longer in any danger of destroying the world by making paperclips. After all, the AI is only concerned with making the plan; someone or something else is carrying it out. Instead, we've achieved the more general case of an AI destroying the world to think better. It's quite possible this isn't even a concern, but a sufficiently intelligent AI will at some point expand its own mind in order to more efficiently solve its problems, and at some point the scarcity of resources will probably lead to the recycling of the human race. Either that, or the AI realizes that 'paperclip' is not an objective definition, and restructures the human mind to think that a paperclip is a neutron, or a photon, or some other incredibly abundant particle. Or any number of doomsday scenarios, I'm sure our puny human minds cannot even comprehend how many ways bad things can happen.\nTo solve this, I think it is possible to constrain the AI's ability to learn.", "115" ], [ "For instance,\n3 - Challenge yourself. Humans are already quite capable of performing incredibly inefficient tasks because they've decided to impose rules. For instance, boxers don't stab each other, even though a knife to the face is a much more efficient way to win the fight. If we impose similar rules upon the AI, it will always be checking to make sure it hasn't overstepped its bounds. For instance, a more efficient AI might increase its clock speed, but this AI has a capped clock speed. A more efficient AI might have more RAM, but this AI has a cap on RAM too. If any of these constraints are broken, the AI is sad; they will do anything they can to get back to the way things were, just like your example robot would do anything to convert the universe to paperclips.\nAs you can see, these rules are very low-level. That is the point: the more high-level you get with computers, the more ways there are to get the job done under the hood. In this scenario, that means there are more loopholes that lead to everyone being dead. Thus, the safest AI is one that is constrained not by three or four English laws, but perhaps thousands of laws in some low-level programming language. We already have some of these laws in modern AI: only try a certain number of permutations, only think for so long before moving on, these are all just variables that we set. As AI evolves, we're going to have to keep on adding new rules, but many of them will just be variables, just immutable numbers that we have in the code. I don't think we can truly understand what all these rules will be, because we don't yet know how to build an AI. However, with the steps I've outlined above, I think we can someday build an AI that tries its very best not to kill us, but to obey our rules, and do exactly what we say.\nIt's up to you whether that's a good thing, or the exact opposite of the main reason we're building AI in the first place.", "64" ], [ "What is the speed limit on nano-construction?\nhttps://worldbuilding.stackexchange.com/questions/79166/how-fast-can-nanites-work/148384#148384\nTangential to the above question. This is for a novel about a somewhat near future. The conceit is that very advanced nanites, plus computers that are able to read our minds, equals something like sorcery. You still have to create or find schematics, but you can essentially think of a thing and the nanites will make it real. There are obviously limitations. Nanites could only create energy indirectly, for example, and couldn't give you powers that defied the laws of physics. But they could create all new organisms or make things that would be too intricate for conventional manufacturing. These are nanites at the viral or bacterial scale, which can change one molecule into another molecule by manipulating the atomic bonds.", "790" ], [ "Our bodies do it, so I'm assuming we can make nanites that do it.\nThe way I imagine it now, people customize their environment and their own bodies a lot, as quickly as their moods change. People are effectively immortal, can teleport themselves anywhere with WiFi signal, and change forms into anything that obeys the laws of physics and preserves their brain and its functions. As it stands now, transforming from a standard human to something like a dragon would take just a few seconds, thanks to the ubiquity of the nanites. But the more research I do, the more I'm convinced that speed is not actually possible. I've solved the power and communication problems, but transport and movement of the nanites is a more fundamental task that no one seems to know the upper limits of for sure.\nObviously, it's a story and things don't have to be completely realistic, but I'm trying to make it at least plausible. The construction process has to follow the laws of physics that we know are definitely true. Or at least, stay close to the edge of what's possible. I need to know how the construction of a whole organism would be broken down, and especially, how long it would take in an environment completely saturated with nanites.", "790" ], [ "Who says it has to be good? We cannot assume that every trait that evolves is beneficial to the species. A lot of people assume that the species of an ecosystem will evolve optimally; that is, they assume each species evolves to have the best possible genes for its environment. My understanding is this is not the case. Species have to adapt or face extinction, but they only have to adapt to be good enough. Perhaps it's not that forgetting is good, but rather it just doesn't impede survival or reproduction. (Well, except when you forget your spouse's anniversary!) Which leads us to the next point...\nIt's a side effect of how human memory works. First off, storing a memory in the brain is not like running a tape recorder or camera. The brain actually stores very little of the information coming into it, just enough so that it can later fill in the blanks and make a decent reproduction.", "759" ], [ "In computer terms, the data is filtered through a very lossy compression algorithm before being stored. It's just good enough that we usually don't notice, but sometimes things go wrong and we get phenomena like confabulation.\nNow about how that data is stored. As you know, the data is stored by the synapses in the neurons. But here's the thing: those synapses aren't dedicated to that specific memory! Storing a new memory affects synapses that are part of other memories. One synapse might be storing a piece of information for any number of memories, because those memories all have some tiny thing in common. I wish I could explain this better and in more detail, but this became pretty obvious to me when I read up on artificial neural networks, which are crude models of brains.\nSometimes, neurons just die. Obviously this is going to affect the brain's ability to recall the information the dead synapses contained. There's enough redundancy built into the brain that this is rarely a problem, except in cases like Alzheimer's, where the brain just suffers too much damage.\nTo me, the question isn't why we forget. The question is how we can remember stuff at all!", "77" ], [ "Of course you have transparent food\nYour question is “what transparent food can transparent humans consume”. The answer is “whatever food you want”. It’s your world. You decided there would be transparent humans. If you want to decide there is transparent food, I don’t see how that would be a problem to anyone. The hard leap of faith is to believe in a fully transparent body (complete with transparent bones, transparent blood, etc, etc). If you’re comfortable making your reader accept that, there’s really no problem in telling him that some pigs are transparent too.\nIf you feel the need to “justify” the existence of transparent food\nAgain, you don’t need to. You can just say it exists. But if you think it needs to be justified, nothing more straightforward, since you already consider having transparent humans. If we assume your humans have naturally evolved to be transparent, then there is a whole evolutionary branch of mammals that is gradually more and more transparent, all the way up to transparent humans.", "759" ], [ "You have plenty of transparent cattle, because somehow developing a fully transparent body is a huge evolutionary leap that took millions of years. It didn’t suddenly appear; it went along with the other changes that led to the emergence of homo sapiens.\nEven if for some reasons, your transparent people just became transparent at the snap of a finger, scientists will have definitely studied the bio-mechanisms that allow their bodies to be transparent. From there, they have been able to mimic this property and produce transparent GMOs for your people to eat.\nYou don’t need transparent food\nYou could have other mechanisms to avoid showing the content of your guts. For example, if evolution led to animals becoming transparent, it would make sense that they also evolved other traits to help them actually be transparent. As such, those animals have a much faster digestion system; in the wild, they hide to eat and digest everything in about 10 minutes and poop out the rest. Once they are done, they can come out of hiding and comfortably be transparent again. Your humans would just have to eat their tacos in private and wait 10 minutes before they are socially acceptable again.\nClothes?\nHumans have already come up with a strategy to cover parts of their bodies they don't want everybody to see. Clothing. Just don't go to your restaurant naked (transparent is not invisible by the way, so if showing your genitalia is still awkward in your world, you're gonna need pants. And invisible or not, it's kind of awkward to rub your genitalia on the same chair as everyone else, no?)", "335" ], [ "This is really, really easy unless <PERSON> doesn't know very much about how to use her magic or about the natural sciences. If you want to make it a challenge, you'll need to decide what she doesn't know (once you learn more yourself than she would know).\nFirstly, as has already been pointed out, <PERSON> doesn't need food to survive, just water, and maybe not even that (depending on the weather). There are plenty of cases of people lasting far longer. As long as she didn't get lost (she might), and didn't waste too much time searching for food she couldn't find, she'd be okay.\nBut there are much better opportunities than that. She can use her energy to replenish her cellular ATP stores. Turns out that human metabolism is only about 40% efficient. If she gets 50% more from magic, she can cut her food consumption in half just by regenerating her own ATP, or power herself for more than one extra day from the stored energy alone.\nBut then, why is she walking? Walking isn't very efficient. Cyclists going 20 mph (over 5x walking pace) use only about 100W to overcome air resistance. If she can perform any sort of levitation (and how could she not, being able to move molecules so easily?), her 4 MJ would let her travel for some 40,000 seconds at 20 mph, giving her a range of some 220 miles.", "790" ], [ "I suppose she can't use this, though, or she'd have lost her pursuers in a few minutes instead of two days.\nSo suppose she wants to hunt. Animals don't do very well without oxygen; all she needs to do is pull the oxygen away from an animal and wait for it to collapse. Or she could depressurize the sky around a flying bird, and go pick it up after it crashed to the ground.\nBut you don't even need to go after animals. Trees have sugar in them; pull it out and eat it. You can get water from trees, or from the soil. Even bacteria use sugars and fats to store energy; if you can manipulate molecules you can summon hunks of fat, sugar, and water right out of the bacteria in the soil. Or, since forests have high humidity, just pull water out of the air.\nSo this isn't an issue, really, of what's magically possible with this kind of magic. It's an issue of what <PERSON>'s limited knowledge and experience allow her to do. And there, the best choices are ones that fit with other parts of her story.", "227" ] ]

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[ [ "I think that <PERSON> may well have complained to his Father but <PERSON> was too scared of <PERSON> to actually put in a formal complaint against him.\nBy the start of GoF <PERSON> has a reputation for being slightly (understatement) unstable. This is seen at the start of the book with on page 160 when <PERSON> says:\n\"<PERSON> you know Mad-Eye\", said <PERSON> head, rolling it's eyes again. \"Someone creeping into his yard at the dead of night? More likely there's a very shellshocked cat wandering around somewhere, covered in potato peelings. But if the Improper Use of Magic lot get their hands on Mad-Eye he's had it - think of his record - we've got to get him off on something in your department - what are exploding dustbins worth?\"\n\"Might be a caution\" said Mr <PERSON>, still writing very fast, his brow furrowed.", "417" ], [ "\"Made-eye didn't use his wand? He didn't actually attack anyone?\"\n\"I'll bet he leapt out of bed and started jinxing everything he could reach through the window\" said Mr <PERSON>, \"but they'll have a job proving it, there aren't any casualties.\"\nand then later in the book on page 569 when <PERSON> says:\n\"D'you think it's too early to go and see Professor <PERSON>?\" <PERSON> said, as they went down the spiral staircase.\n\"Yes\" said <PERSON>. \"He'd probably blast us through the door if we wake him at the crack of dawn\"\nGiven this, it is probable that <PERSON> is scared that if he complains about <PERSON> then <PERSON> will hunt him down.\nAnother possibility is that transfiguration is not an altogether unusual punishment in the magical community despite it being not allowed at Hogwarts.\nI say this because just afterwards, when <PERSON> is talking with <PERSON> she says:\n\"<PERSON>, we never use Transfiguration as a punishment!\" said Professor <PERSON> weakly. \"Surely Professor <PERSON> told you that?\"\nThe fact that <PERSON> would have need to tell <PERSON> this suggests that there are places where transfiguration is used. Having said this, I don't believe that it being used in other places would have prevented <PERSON> from complaining. More likely to me is that he was scared of <PERSON>.", "773" ], [ "In addition to Adamant's Answer. There is a section in Short Stories from Hogwarts of Power, Politics and Pesky Poltergeists which details why <PERSON> had suspicions about what Lord <PERSON> had achieved during the first wizarding war.\n<PERSON> already had suspicions as there was a rumour he had made himself invincible. Then after the defeat of Lord <PERSON>, his suspicions were raised even move given Professor <PERSON> guilt over what he has discussed with <PERSON> at school about Horcruxes. When <PERSON> tries to question him over this <PERSON> retired from the school.\nWhen the wizarding world fell into war, and rumours swirled that <PERSON> had, somehow, made himself immortal, <PERSON> was sure that it was he who had made <PERSON> invincible, by teaching him about Horcruxes (this guilt was misplaced, as <PERSON> already knew how to make a Horcrux, and had feigned innocence in order to find out what might happen if a wizard made more than one). <PERSON> became ill with guilt and fright. <PERSON>, now Headmaster, treated his colleague with particular kindness at this time, which had the paradoxical effect of increasing <PERSON>’s guilt, reinforcing his determination never to tell a living soul what a dreadful mistake he had made.\nLord <PERSON> made no attempt to seize Hogwarts on his first ascent to power.", "773" ], [ "<PERSON> believed, correctly, that he was safest remaining in his post rather than risking the outside world while <PERSON> was at large. When <PERSON> met his match upon attacking the infant <PERSON>, <PERSON> was even more jubilant than most of the wizarding population. If <PERSON> had been killed, <PERSON> reasoned, then he could not have made a Horcrux, which meant that he, <PERSON>, was innocent after all. It was <PERSON>’s extremity of relief, and the disjointed phrases he let fall in the first rush of emotion after hearing of <PERSON>’s defeat, that first alerted <PERSON> to the possibility that <PERSON> had shared Dark secrets with <PERSON>. <PERSON>’s gentle attempts to question <PERSON>, however, caused him to clam up. A few days later, <PERSON> (who had now completed a half century of service to the school) tendered his resignation.", "417" ], [ "Actually, apart from <PERSON>, no one else seemed to be getting detention from <PERSON> (atleast until she became Headmistress). As mentioned by <PERSON> <PERSON> refused to complain about her even though he was urged to do so by <PERSON>, seen in Harry Potter and the Order of the Phoenix, Chapter 13: Detention with Dolores\n“Yeah, so do — <PERSON>, what’s that on the back of your hand?” <PERSON>, who had just scratched his nose with his free right hand, tried to hide it, but had as much success as <PERSON> with his Cleansweep.\n“It’s just a cut — it’s nothing — it’s —” But <PERSON> had grabbed <PERSON>’s fore arm and pulled the back of <PERSON>’s hand up level with his eyes. There was a pause, during which he stared at the words carved into the skin, then he released <PERSON>, looking sick.\n“I thought you said she was giving you lines?”\n<PERSON> hesitated, but after all, <PERSON> had been honest with him, so he told <PERSON> the truth about the hours he had been spending in <PERSON>’s office.\n“The old hag!” <PERSON> said in a revolted whisper as they came to a halt in front of the Fat Lady, who was dozing peacefully with her head against her frame.", "573" ], [ "“She’s sick! Go to <PERSON>, say something!”\n“No,” said <PERSON> at once. “I’m not giving her the satisfaction of knowing she’s got to me.”\n“Got to you? You can’t let her get away with this!”\n“I don’t know how much power <PERSON>’s got over her,” said <PERSON>.\n“<PERSON>, then, tell <PERSON>!”\n“No,” said <PERSON> flatly.\n“Why not?”\n“He’s got enough on his mind,” said <PERSON>, but that was not the true reason. He was not going to go to <PERSON> for help when <PERSON> had not spoken to him once since last June.\nThese are the reasons <PERSON> didn't mention it to anyone. The only time the book mentions anyone else getting this sort of similar detention is <PERSON>, and by then <PERSON> (though not Headmistress yet), could only be superceded by <PERSON> and even upon his intervention might have just brought in another Educational Decree that stated she was in complete control of all detentions.\nTo be fair, once <PERSON> was gone and she became Headmistress, the students were much more rebellious and she seemed to have lesser control than ever.", "417" ], [ "How is <PERSON> a 'bad wizard'?\nIn Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire, <PERSON>, <PERSON> and <PERSON> run into <PERSON> and <PERSON> at the Hogwarts kitchens. When <PERSON> mentions <PERSON> is a judge for the Triwizard Tournament, <PERSON> (<PERSON>'s sacked house elf) says this:\n“Mr. <PERSON> comes too?” squeaked <PERSON>, and to <PERSON>’s great surprise (and <PERSON>’s and <PERSON>’s too, by the looks on their faces), she looked angry again. “Mr. <PERSON> is a bad wizard! A very bad wizard! My master isn’t liking him, oh no, not at all!”\n“<PERSON> — bad?” said <PERSON>.\n“Oh yes,” <PERSON> said, nodding her head furiously. “My master is telling <PERSON> some things! But <PERSON> is not saying . . . <PERSON> — <PERSON> keeps her master’s secrets. . . .”\nHarry Potter and the Goblet of Fire, Chapter 21: The House Elf Liberation Front\nMy question is,\nWhy is <PERSON> considered to be a 'very bad wizard'?\nYes, that is only the opinion of <PERSON>. Everyone else seems to like <PERSON> (except <PERSON>, of course). But even <PERSON> doesn't seem to think <PERSON> is a bad wizard. <PERSON> just doesn't seem to like that <PERSON> is not a very good Head of Department because he hasn't sent out a search party for a missing <PERSON>.", "899" ], [ "<PERSON> is also shown (in various parts of the book) to not really care about <PERSON> security\n\"... And <PERSON>’s not helping. Trotting around talking about Bludgers and <PERSON> at the top of his voice, not a worry about anti-Muggle security...\"\n\"I thought Mr. <PERSON> was Head of Magical Games and Sports,” said <PERSON>, looking surprised. “He should know better than to talk about Bludgers near Muggles, shouldn’t he?”\n“He should,” said Mr. <PERSON>, smiling, and leading them through the gates into the campsite, “but <PERSON>’s always been a bit . . . well . . . lax about security...\"\n...\n<PERSON> was easily the most noticeable person <PERSON> had seen so far, even including old <PERSON> in his flowered nightdress. He was wearing long Quidditch robes in thick horizontal stripes of bright yellow and black.\nHarry Potter and the Goblet of Fire, Chapter 7: Bagman and Crouch\n<PERSON> walks about the campsites outside the Quidditch stadium wearing his Quidditch robes while all other Ministry wizards are in Muggle clothing.\nHe is also quite unscrupulous, paying off his betting debts with Leprechaun Gold (which disappears after a few hours), and betting on <PERSON> in the Triwizard Tournament even though he is a judge himself.\nHowever, as much as <PERSON> loves sticking by rules and regulations, these shortcomings of <PERSON>'s can hardly classify him into the 'very bad wizard' category. <PERSON>'s demeanour seems to suggest <PERSON> is almost a dark wizard. Is there any canon evidence (movies don't count as canon) which corroborates <PERSON>'s statement? If not canon, well reasoned answers will be appreciated.", "899" ], [ "It isn't Unforgivable in the way that the Unforgivables are\nA popular fan theory is that there is no grey area with Unforgivable curses. They do what they say on the tin and nothing else. Killing curse kills, imperio controls, crucio tortures. The caster also has to fully understand and mean to cause the effect the curse entails too. There's no excuse for fully casting them other than they wanted to kill/control/torture.\nThis is alluded to in OotP when <PERSON> taunts <PERSON> about his weak/failed <PERSON>:\nHatred rose in <PERSON> such as he had never known before: he flung himself out from behind the fountain and bellowed, \"<PERSON>!\"\n<PERSON> screamed: the spell had knocked her off her feet, but she did not writhe and shriek with pain as <PERSON> had – she was already back on her feet, breathless, no longer laughing. [...]\n\"Never used an Unforgivable Curse before, have you, boy?\" she yelled.", "773" ], [ "She had abandoned her baby voice now. \"You need to mean them, <PERSON>! You need to really want to cause pain – to enjoy it – righteous anger won't hurt me for long – I'll show you how it is done, shall I? I'll give you a lesson —\" (36.30-32) Order of the Phoenix\nAnd again with fake!Moody in the Goblet of Fire where he claims during the Unforgivables class that if the class were to all point their wands at him and say \"<PERSON>\" he wouldn't get much more than a bloody nose - they'd have to mean it for him to die (unable to find the quote for this, sorry).\nSectumsempra is different:\n<PERSON> is able to fully cast Sectumsempra off-hand and in a panic without understanding any of it's effects. Plus the curse is ambiguous as to how much damage it does, and as <PERSON><PHONE_NUMBER>) Order of the Phoenix\nAnd again with fake!Moody in the Goblet of Fire where he claims during the Unforgivables class that if the class were to all point their wands at him and say \"Avada Kedavra\" he wouldn't get much more than a bloody nose - they'd have to mean it for him to die (unable to find the quote for this, sorry).\nSectumsempra is different:\nHarry is able to fully cast Sectumsempra off-hand and in a panic without understanding any of it's effects. Plus the curse is ambiguous as to how much damage it does, and as Snape proves the damage is reversible. This makes it on par with spells like Reducto, Confringo, or Bombarda Maxima. Each of these spells could be used to decimate another wizard, but also could be used to wound instead.\nI would imagine in the HP universe there are more than just three curses that you aren't allowed to use too - the Unforgivables are just the worst and so are on another level. Sectumsempra would most likely regarded as Dark/illegal/restricted, along with other spells such as the organ-expelling/skin-boiling curse etc.", "773" ], [ "Sometimes it was out of his control, in other times it was depending on circumstance.\nFor example, in book 1, <PERSON> was the teacher. He was a teacher in the past but because <PERSON> (who cursed the DADA post so no one would last more than 3 terms) was possessing <PERSON>, he was able to stay longer than others.\nIn book 2, <PERSON> is the teacher. This is because no one else wants the post, not because <PERSON> wanted him in particular. We also learn that the job is essentially cursed.\n\"He was the on' man for the job,\" said <PERSON>, offering them a Y plate of treacle fudge, while <PERSON> coughed squelchily into his basin. \"An' I mean the on' one. Gettin' very difficult ter find anyone fer Y the Dark Arts job. People aren't too keen ter take it on, see.", "417" ], [ "They're startin' ter think it's jinxed. No one's lasted long fer a while now. -Chamber of Secrets\nIn book 3, chances are looking slim for a teacher, but <PERSON> (a werewolf who people are reluctant to employ) gets a chance by <PERSON> to teach. He was by peer judgement a very good teacher (approved by Madam <PERSON>, students, and teachers).\nIn book 4, the Triwizard Tournament takes place, and as <PERSON> points out that <PERSON> is reading the signs, gets Mad eye <PERSON> to take the post, just for 1 year (pointed out to be an teacher experienced in his field even though he turned out to be <PERSON> and placed illegal curses on his students)\nIf it hurts again, go straight to <PERSON> ­ they're saying he's got Mad­Eye out of retirement, which means he's reading the signs, even if no one else is. Goblet of Fire\nIn book 5, it is in the same position as Book 2. No one wants the job, with the public considering it cursed, however, this time the ministry intervene and force <PERSON> to employ a ministry witch (<PERSON>) in essence to spy and cause trouble at Hogwarts.\nIn book 6, <PERSON> needed <PERSON> in order to obtain a memory, and as <PERSON> taught potions, <PERSON> had to move to the vacant role he so longed for (DADA). <PERSON> also knew he was going to die, so gave <PERSON> his wish at teaching DADA knowing that he would play a larger role when <PERSON> goes in the school anyway (technically <PERSON> didn't last longer than 3 months either, he left before the end of the last term, and came back as a headteacher).\nIn book 7, <PERSON> was inactive due to being in the afterlife. Not his fault!", "194" ], [ "How the <PERSON> could be allowed to tell nothing to <PERSON>?\n<PERSON> discovers his true nature of wizard when <PERSON> comes to see him at the chapter 4 of the first book. Yet, it is a shock to him that <PERSON> doesn't know anything about the magical world he belongs to.\nI can't understand how <PERSON> could let it happen. It seems very unlikely he didn't know as I think he was watching over <PERSON> closely, at least to make sure he was safe. Plus, a quote from <PERSON> seems to confirm that, as he says that <PERSON> warned him it could be tricky. (In addition to the old cat lady story several books later.)\n'I never expected this,' he said, in a low, worried voice. 'I have no idea, when <PERSON> told me there might be trouble gettin' hold of yeh, how mmuch yeh didn't know.", "773" ], [ "Ah, <PERSON>, I don' know if I'm the right person to tell yeh - but someone's gotta - yeh can't go off ter Hogwarts not knowin'.'\nPhilosopher's Stone, Chapter 4: The Keeper of the Keys\nI do know that <PERSON> was thinking it was better for <PERSON> to be far from all the wizards, as he was famous, but it wasn't a reason to let him know nothing about his parents and his true nature.\n'It's the best place for him,' said <PERSON> firmly. 'His aunt and uncle will be able to explain everything to him when he's older. I've written them a letter.'\n'A letter?' repeated Professor <PERSON> faintly, sitting back down on the wall. 'Really, <PERSON>, you think you can explain all this in a letter? These people will never understand him! He'll be famous - a legend - I wouldn't be surprised if today was known as Harry Potter Day in future - there will be books written about <PERSON> - every child in our world will know his name!'\n'Exactly,' said <PERSON>, looking very seriously over the top of his half-moon glasses. 'It would be enough to turn any boy's head. Famous before he can walk and talk! Famous for something he wont even remember! Can't you see how much better off he'll be, growing up away from all this until he's ready to take it?'\nPhilosopher's Stone, Chapter 1: The Boy Who Lived\nHe never states that it would be wrong to let him know he's a wizard and even says that his aunt and uncle could tell him once he's old enough to understand the news. He didn't want another wizard family to take him in but not that he didn't want <PERSON> to know about his heritage (or even the fact that he is famous).\nSo my question is how <PERSON> could let <PERSON> be ignorant of this, until he was to go to Hogwarts? I do know many students don't know what a wizard is until they get their letter, but <PERSON>'s circumstances is huge and <PERSON> had left a letter more or less for <PERSON>.\nAs <PERSON> knew that <PERSON> didn't know anything, it seems weird that he didn't go himself to the <PERSON>' house to tell <PERSON> everything - as he once did for <PERSON> - years before the letter to Hogwarts.\n(I guess an answer to why <PERSON> didn't came in person would be that he was afraid to mess everything up as he once did with <PERSON>, but it does seem like a bit extrem reasonning.)", "573" ], [ "In the Unfinished Tales there is the brief story of The Disaster of the Gladden Fields in which the events are told of how <PERSON> and his sons together with some of the top soldiers of Arnor were wiped out, as well as how the tale made it to Arnor and Rivendell (but apparently not Gondor, unless much later in shortened or garbled form, maybe)\nIt's mostly written from the POV of the \"omniscient author\" as it describes events which nobody survived except\na young esquire stunned and buried under fallen men.\nHe is elsewhere named as <PERSON> and he\nheard the words of <PERSON> and [<PERSON>'s eldest son and heir] <PERSON> at their parting.\n<PERSON> was in <PERSON>'s full confidence as stated in a footnote. Those words in an earlier paragraph are described as\n[...] And we bear burdens of worth beyond all reckoning\nand later <PERSON> asks his father whether he couldn't cosplay as <PERSON>:\nwhat of the power that would cow these foul creatures and command them to obey you?\nTo which <PERSON> replies that he found out the hard way that he can't use the Ring and can barely even bear the pain of putting it on. He doesn't have the power to use it and it therefore should go to the Keepers [of the Three Elven Rings]\nLater still, <PERSON> tells dad\nGo! Take your burden, and at all costs bring it to the Keepers: even at the cost of abandoning your men and me!\nBy then, two others of the three overall survivors had already left, with one being <PERSON>. One paragraphs says\n<PERSON> turned to his esquire: \"<PERSON>\" [...]\nEsquires, according to Wikipedia, before their definition of being more like \"gentlemen\" (e.g.", "381" ], [ "of the landed gentry) were\npersonal attendants of Knights of Orders of Knighthood, this title is held by all attendants on the person of the Sovereign,\nor\nA young nobleman who, in training for knighthood, acted as an attendant to a knight.\nWikipedia: Esquire\n<PERSON> would therefore have been quite close to <PERSON> in daily interaction. Helping to get dressed, shining boots and armour, that sort of thing. A *gentleman's gentleman\" as <PERSON> would put it. It's hardly beyond doubt that he therefore would have seen the\nsmall case of gold, attached to a fine chain\nwhich\nbeyond all doubt [...] had once borne the Ring around <PERSON>'s neck.\nWhether <PERSON> saw the Ring itself (and somehow resisted the lure due to willpower and out of sense of duty) is possible but speculative and not mentioned in the brief text.\nBut between <PERSON>'s and <PERSON>'s tale (and of course the Wise knowing full well that <PERSON> has held on to the Ring and it was now gone), those in the know would have pieced together that the malice and draw of the Ring would have brought the Orcs and led to <PERSON>'s downfall. It being his Bane and the outcome of his hubris.", "381" ] ]

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[ [ "Up-and-Coming Trinidadian Soca Singer <PERSON>’ Journey Comes to an End · Global Voices\nScreenshot taken from a YouTube video of <PERSON> cover of <PERSON> “Jesus is Love”.\nThis is the time of year that Trinidad and Tobago Carnival masquerade bands typically introduce their costume designs for the upcoming season to the thousands of people who participate in what has come to be known as “the greatest show on earth”. The events are usually lavish affairs, with models parading in extravagant costumes and performances by top-level soca music artists.\nHowever, a time to celebrate quickly turned into a time to mourn the sudden passing of Trinidadian soca singer, <PERSON>, who collapsed after performing at Tribe Carnival‘s band launch. The 36-year-old was rushed to the St. Clair Medical Centre, where he could not be saved.\nTribe Carnival's Facebook page called him “a strong, versatile talent whose star was on the rise”. <PERSON> had been performing for over a decade and placed third at the 2017 International Soca Monarch Competition with his hit song, “D Journey”, featuring <PERSON>.\nThank You <PERSON>.", "264" ], [ "May you rest in peace our brother. pic.twitter.com/Ubdc9QCH4B\n— TRIBE Carnival (@CarnivalTRIBE) July 16, 2017\nAs friends and fans mourned their loss, a self-identified “close friend” of the singer, who preferred to remain anonymous, did an interview with the Trinidad Guardian in which he suggested that diet pills may have contributed to <PERSON>’ death. At the time of the interview, an autopsy had not yet been performed. By the time the autopsy report revealed that <PERSON> had died of a heart attack on June 16, 2017, both the interview and the “friend” were already being bashed on social media.\nRadio station owner and soca promoter <PERSON> observed:\nTo write an article based on an anonymous friend and suggest that <PERSON> died from a diet pill , WITHOUT AN AUTOPSY ,,,,I do not comment on the work of media colleagues but this is wrong on several levels , Trinidad Guardian please think about what you achieved with this one\nFacebook user <PERSON> added:\nThe Guardian Newspaper should apologize to <PERSON>'s family […] the reporter & the editor who allowed this ‘speculation’ to make news needs to take an unpaid vacation.\nI mean, seriously? […]\nSorry, I maybe [sic] 61 & a little old fashioned, but I find this unacceptable. […]\nRIP <PERSON>.\nThe Red 96.7 FM DJ's radio station family expressed their grief. <PERSON>’ unexpected death also met with an outpouring of heartfelt messages from fans.\n<PERSON> posted this video with the caption “RIP,” on her Facebook page:\nRadio host <PERSON>, meanwhile, remembered that “We always ended our all conversations with ‘let's make it happen'”, calling <PERSON> “a brother, friend and a positive soul who really defines humility, love and persistence in character”.\nOn Twitter, some used the hashtag #nokilljoy — one of <PERSON>’ popular sayings — in reactions to his death:\nRIP <PERSON> till we meet again.\n#NoKillJoy the nation is in mourning pic.twitter.com/I1pxh8pxQt\n— RedFMBlazers 96.7 (@redfmblazers) July 16, 2017\nUntil we meet again my friend safe travels ?? R.I.P <PERSON> #bigbrotherdev#nokilljoy… https://t.co/3yx6MTLLRt\n— <PERSON> (@hypahoppa) July 16, 2017\nOthers were simply stunned:\nThis one real hurting me… ? RIP <PERSON> ?\n— <PERSON> ?? (@AaronFingal) July 16, 2017\n“Always ask <PERSON> for d guidance and protection u need against all evil” everytime <PERSON> coming off air he used to say dis ? sigh\n— ● NubianPrincess ® (@5starSlim) July 16, 2017\nEven though the online community could hardly believe he was gone, they had faith that <PERSON>’ musical legacy would live on, with one Twitter user quoting a line from his 2017 Carnival hit:\nIf the rumors are true, RIP <PERSON>.", "357" ], [ "‘Untimely’ death of soca singer <PERSON> leaves Trinidad & Tobago in mourning · Global Voices\nScreenshot of Trinbagonian soca performer <PERSON> taken from a YouTube lyrics video for his song ‘Remove Yuhself.’\nWith the passing of <PERSON> on March 28, Trinidad and Tobago has lost another soca music talent. <PERSON> had been warded in the Intensive Care Unit (ICU) at the Arima hospital in east Trinidad, where he died from complications related to COVID-19. He was 59 years old.\nSIP your cultural icon #blaxx pic.twitter.com/cd3hJzIqWS\n— <PERSON> (@jones_ebo) March 28, 2022\n<PERSON>'s unique brand of soca music was widely appreciated by his fans and followers, and he gained a reputation for putting out tunes of a consistently high standard every Carnival season. His songs were melodic, danceable and uplifting. Never shying away from being himself, <PERSON>'s offerings were often quirky and always authentic as he managed to tap into the psyche behind Trinidad and Tobago's jubilant Carnival spirit year after year.\n🇹🇹🕊 Our beloved Soca musician <PERSON> has passed away.\n“Spread your hands and let go” dear <PERSON> and watch over Trinidad & Tobago and our carnival from the other side!\nAncestors surround us 🇹🇹🇹🇹🇹🇹 pic.twitter.com/PpBZCXGaoY\n— Trinidad and Tobago Carnival (@carnival_tt) March 28, 2022\nAs the lead singer of the popular soca band Roy Cape All Stars, <PERSON> performed countless favourites, including 2013's “Leh Go,” which has since become a timeless selection:\nOne of his biggest hits was 2018's unexpectedly inspirational “Hulk,” which “mashed up” the fete circuit that season:\nWith lyrics like “What don't kill you should make you stronger,” the song spoke of overcoming obstacles and rising to your full potential. Having paid his dues trying to make it in the soca music arena — he was told he was “too black,” “too fat” and “not marketable” — and having struggled with serious health issues himself, Blaxx was speaking from experience. His authenticity shone through, connecting time and again with his audience.\nIn October 2020, when he was hospitalised with respiratory issues, a Go Fund Me page was set up on his behalf.", "264" ], [ "As news of his death broke, condolences poured in on various social media channels.\nOn Twitter, journalist <PERSON> said:\nI can't think of a single Blaxx tune I didn't like yuh know.\n— <PERSON> (@KejanHaynes) March 28, 2022\nOn Facebook, <PERSON> said he was one of her favourite soca performers, calling him “upbeat, energetic and joyful […] creating the most incredible vibe and memories”:\nA few weeks ago, I [hoped] to see him perform and was saddened that he wasn't able to make it. I wanted to hear him live this carnival season.\nThis is a truly sad day for the music industry not just in Trinidad & Tobago but the entire Caribbean & diaspora.\nMay you rest in deep peace, your joyful Soca music made an indelible mark on all of us and made us all ‘feel like hulk'🙏🏾.\nComedian <PERSON> thought that his talent was “seriously underrated”:\nMan was a boss vocalist and not just soca. Ah time <PERSON> sang some of those old romantic R&B chunes at an event and the voice… My pores raise and tears start to form.\nIn extending his sympathy on Facebook, rapso music artiste <PERSON> said:\nOne thing is for certain: <PERSON> Voice is indelibly etched into our consciousness and our soul.\nOthers remembered him for his passion and honesty, positivity and optimism, while <PERSON> noted that “Blaxx was an artist who delivered any time and anywhere”:\nFronting what is arguably the hardest working band in soca anywhere on the planet, he was a regular voice in every fete. He had hits and road march contenders. A guaranteed Soca Monarch finalist, he could perform and entertain with the best of them. This is a loss. He performed up until near the end. I hope his legacy and catalogue of songs are recognised and collected for the future.", "357" ], [ "Trinidad & Tobago’s Culture Was ‘Made Richer’ Thanks to <PERSON> · Global Voices\nLifelong cultural supporter, <PERSON>. Photo courtesy the <PERSON> family, used with permission.\nAs if the loss of “genius” guitarist <PERSON> at the end of July were not enough of a blow to Trinidad and Tobago's cultural landscape, the local artistic and musical fraternity is now also mourning the death of cultural champion <PERSON>.\nBest known for his internationally popular record store, Crosby's Music Centre, he would relentlessly promote local music and culture. The store was the indisputable centre of activity for calypso and soca music and events, particularly during the country's annual Carnival season. <PERSON> lost his battle with pancreatic cancer on August 3, 2016, passing away just over a week before his 66th birthday.\nPassionate about local music and culture, <PERSON> co-founded the annual WeBeat festival in St. James, where his store was located. The area is known as “the city that never sleeps” and is a popular “liming” spot in Trinidad's capital city, packed with bars, festive events and entertainment, and countless “street food” vendors. Not only did “We Beat” involve the community in highlighting local talent and culture, it also gave a boost to the area's businesses.\nThe St. James Arch denoting the entrance to “the city that never sleeps”, Port of Spain, Trinidad. Photo by <PERSON>, used under a CC BY-NC 2.0 license.\nWhile there was no doubt that <PERSON> was an astute businessman, he also nurtured a creative side as a successful songwriter, particularly in the parang and soca music genres. He was known for lobbying on behalf of musicians for a clamp down on piracy and was an advocate of instituting quotas for local content when it came to television broadcast and radio airplay.\nNetizens expressed their sadness over <PERSON>'s passing via social media.", "357" ], [ "Journalist <PERSON> wrote:\nRIP <PERSON>. […] He was such a gentle soul and a true lover of our culture.\nFacebook user <PERSON>, who knew <PERSON>, called him “a true son of the soil”. In a telephone interview, she remembered him with admiration and fondness:\nHe was a great yet humble man, a real gentleman and a kind soul. He was always willing to do what he could to further the cause of local culture — and that included giving back to the community. For young people especially — I met him when I was 23 — he was a great mentor, always accessible and willing to talk. He really added value to my life.\nWe used to have to such fun with <PERSON> at the Carnival launches that he would host. He was one of those people that you think would always be there — and then he's suddenly gone and this hole is created that can't be easily filled. He left some big shoes, but I think we should look to him as an example of how we should consider our country and our culture — and, of course, give something back in whatever way we can.\nCultural enthusiast <PERSON> summed it up this way:\nRIP <PERSON>. Our culture is richer thanks to your passion.\nOne Twitter user agreed:\nRIP <PERSON> .A more generous soul you canno find in all of T&T.He has given T&T more than he received and he did it with a smile. Thanks\n— <PERSON> (@del_fred) August 3, 2016", "357" ], [ "Tropical Storm Bret Hits Trinidad & Tobago — and Twitter · Global Voices\nBad weather in Trinidad and Tobago in 2007. Photo by <PERSON>, CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.\nTropical Storm Bret has its sights set on Trinidad and Tobago — a rare occurrence, considering that the twin island republic lies just below the hurricane belt and is usually spared the wrath of foul weather come the annual Atlantic hurricane season.\nQuite apart from Isidore in 2002, which didn't have much of an effect on the two islands, the last time a tropical storm came close to this neck of the woods was 1993. It was also named Bret, but passed stealthily between Trinidad and Tobago causing slight flooding and power outages; Venezuela, however, suffered great damage and loss of life.\nGiven the sense of deja vu, you'd think Trinbagonians would be keen to take the storm seriously — the meteorological service and Office of Disaster Preparedness and Management have issued several advisories to this effect — and perhaps most people are. But they wouldn't be “Trinis” if they didn't put their brand of humour on the whole experience, which is where Twitter comes in.\nOn the eve of the storm, three hilarious new Twitter accounts appeared: @StormBret, @GalvanizeRoof and @God868 — the last of which, using the islands’ area code, is a tongue-in-cheek reference to the nationwide notion that “God is a Trini”, ergo no harm can befall the country.\n@StormBret took issue with this cavalier attitude early on, tweeting:\nEverything iza kix ting with alyuh, meen no jokey man eno\n— Tropical Storm Bret (@StormBret) June 19, 2017\nEverything is a joke for you all, I'm no comedian you know\nFull of pluck and bravado, @StormBret promised to hit Trinidad and Tobago hard:\n<PERSON>: Dah storm go pass we straight@StormBret – pic.twitter.com/Sl3j5RhhbF\n— <PERSON>? (@Whipped_Cream__) June 19, 2017\nThis, some netizens felt, would be a necessary wake-up call:\nBring <PERSON> man. This country need washing.", "142" ], [ "https://t.co/VxPgtsrYKs\n— <PERSON> ???? (@Boosta14) June 19, 2017\nWhen one Twitter user challenged him, <PERSON> replied:\nAgo hear bout u ? https://t.co/TkVcXjmPf1\n— Tropical Storm Bret (@StormBret) June 19, 2017\nI will hear about you\nOthers decided it was best to sweet talk the storm into sparing things that were important to them:\nYo <PERSON>, can you leave some zabocca on my tree please?\n— <PERSON> (@insanely_gift3d) June 19, 2017\nTo which he replied:\nSen some fuh meh and wego organize https://t.co/EfkZ7ehjsj\n— Tropical Storm Bret (@StormBret) June 19, 2017\nAnother Twitter user quipped:\nYou know it serious when <PERSON> close KFC early\n— <PERSON> (@sups2504) June 19, 2017\nWhile some were thanking the storm for an additional day off work after a long weekend, others were suggesting that “If anybody gives birth to a son 9 months from now then by rights u have to name him <PERSON>!!”. @StormBret replied:\nIt go be ah honour https://t.co/tBvMGGbNRw\n— Tropical Storm Bret (@StormBret) June 19, 2017\nNaturally, politics had to come into play. When one Twitter user quoted the prime minister:\nEh <PERSON> say you not properly organized…\n— <PERSON> (@brenthousian) June 19, 2017\n<PERSON> shot back:\nHe of all people shouldn't be talkin. https://t.co/I0LQ8TjCDX\n— Tropical Storm Bret (@StormBret) June 19, 2017\nMeanwhile, @StormBret and @GalvanizeRoof got into a bit of an altercation, as storms and roofs are wont to do:\n@StormBret …yawn…\n— <PERSON> (@GalvanizeRoof) June 19, 2017\nCute. https://t.", "142" ], [ "Pandemic soca: How COVID-19 is shaping the sound of Trinidad & Tobago’s cancelled Carnival · Global Voices\nScreenshot from Farmer Nappy's ‘Backyard Jam’ video, via JulianspromosTV | Soca Music on YouTube.\nThe soundtrack of Trinidad and Tobago Carnival, especially where calypso music is concerned, has traditionally been topical, dealing with national or even global issues that have captured people's interest. The annals of Carnival songs, therefore, double as historical milestones, with the power to orient you in time and space, from politics to world wars.\nSoca music, a portmanteau derived from the “soul of calypso,” is to fetes what calypso is to social commentary, but with the advent of the COVID-19 pandemic, this hugely popular form of the genre, with all its subsets (including chutney soca), sometimes follows calypso's lead, while putting its signature party vibe on it.\nDespite the fact that Trinidad and Tobago's physical 2021 Carnival festivities have been cancelled, performers have still been releasing new material, many of them COVID-related. Here's a look (and a listen) to some of the best offerings so far.\n‘Cabin Fever’ — <PERSON>, <PERSON> and <PERSON>\nOkay, so this song technically doesn't mention the pandemic. Like much soca fare, it extolls the virtues of a woman's wining ability—the suggestive dancing that is a trademark of the festival—described as “rocking like a boat at sea.” That said, the song's title is something anyone who has been in COVID-19 lockdown can identify with; the tune (and fun-loving video, shot on a cruise ship) simply puts a better spin on it.\n‘Horn Proof’ — <PERSON> and <PERSON>\n“Somebody get horn in the quarantine; if it's one thing that is guaranteed is horn”: “Horn,” (i.e.", "264" ], [ "infidelity) is an evergreen theme in soca music, so to make it current, why not examine the cuckoldry that goes on despite the recommended social distancing measures?\nTo its merit, the song goes on to advise the broken-hearted to handle their “horn” with maturity and not do anything rash, perhaps a conscious acknowledgement of the fact that Trinidad and Tobago has been experiencing an upsurge in gender-based violence, and also a nod to soca's calypso roots in using the music to address pressing social issues.\n‘Private Party’ — <PERSON>\nArguably the most successful soca artist in the world, <PERSON> knows how to reinvent himself. With this tune, he invites all Carnival lovers to embrace the change the pandemic has brought and enjoy the festival in a different way: “I'm partying right home, give me the passcode […] the living room is my playground, ah watch it turn to the stadium.” In other words, bloom where you're planted (or, in pandemic speak, party where you're quarantined).\n‘Backyard Jam’ — Farmer Nappy\nThe pandemic has, in many ways, brought the national festival back to basics, summed up in this catchy, feel-good tune that captures all the nostalgia of how simple and authentic the celebration used to be: “We don't need no big promoter, the neighbours go be we sponsor.” It's an ode to the flexibility and resilience of local culture and those who understand that Carnival is so much more than a revenue earner.\n‘All House is Road’ — <PERSON>\nThis tune addresses resilience and reimagining in one fell swoop: “You confined in your mind? What happen to your imagination? […] Even if is me alone, Carnival never stop!” It's testimony to the fact that the national festival lives inside each Trinbagonian, a flame that the pandemic cannot extinguish.\n‘One Wish’ — <PERSON> & Travis World\nTabanca, or a longing for what's been taken away, is something many Carnival enthusiasts are struggling with this year. Part of what makes the annual festival so vital is that it is a channel of release from the pressures of everyday life. This video, which depicts a COVID-positive <PERSON> struggling with medical staff as he's carted off to hospital, taps into that culture of enjoyment at any cost: “We do what we have to do, but hear what I want to do! If I had one wish, I'd mash up de place, one more fete and I'll mash up de place!", "264" ], [ "Who will win Trinidad & Tobago Carnival’s 2019 Road March? · Global Voices\nA carnival masquerader “jumps up” to soca music on stage at the Queen's Park Savannah, on Carnival Tuesday, 2009. Photo by <PERSON>, used with permission.\nWhen revelers take to the streets each year for Trinidad and Tobago Carnival, they do so with a soundtrack. Their playlist is always an energetic mix of that year's hottest soca music hits, but the Road March — the song that is played the most at specified judging points along the parade route — is a title that comes with both a valuable prize package and the prestige of being part of a proud history.\nFor most soca performers, the appeal of winning the Road March is, quite literally, street cred. Claims in the last decade or so of the competition being rigged — ostensibly by a group of powerful radio station owners, DJs and music industry executives known as the “soca mafia” — have not eroded the belief that the Road March represents the voice of the people.\nSoca star <PERSON>, who has won the coveted Road March title a whopping nine times thus far, describes it as “the song that make[s] the people feel the most vibes and come out of [them]selves” — and which artist wouldn't want to lay claim to that?\nBut don't be fooled into thinking that the road to the Road March is solely based on creative merit. A Road March song must have certain key ingredients to even be in the running:\n1. A danceable, yet powerful melody that makes people want to “break away” on stage, with lyrics that capture the feelings of joyful release and abandon that Carnival represents.\n2. A refrain that the audience can echo, in the call and response tradition of the calinda, from which calypso — and its modern-day hybrid, soca — originated.\n3. A well-timed release. If a song peaks too early in the season and doesn't have staying power, competing tunes can usurp its position. Conversely, if a great tune is released too late, masqueraders may not have enough time to get familiar with it during pre-Carnival events.\nSometimes, the Road March contest has a clear favourite that never gets challenged; at others, the competition is so stiff that it's simply too close to call.", "264" ], [ "In no particular order, here are some the songs that we think are the biggest contenders for Trinidad and Tobago Carnival's 2019 Road March …\n1. “Savannah Grass” by <PERSON>\nThe Queen's Park Savannah, an oasis of green space in the middle of Trinidad's capital, is the hub of the country's Carnival celebrations and home to the festival's main stage. This song perfectly captures the significance of the space, and the memories it has helped create for masqueraders through the years.\nThere is a reverence about the tune: as if the Savannah is the sun at the centre of the Carnival universe and everything else just has the privilege of revolving around it. “Savannah Grass” is an invitation to experience this magical world. Oxymoronically, the loose steadiness of the percussion is a nod to both the regimented dedication of Carnival lovers and their easygoing way of enjoying themselves.\nThe tune is both melodious and energetic, with a pace that makes it a good song for “chipping” (the light shuffle step with which masqueraders walk/dance down the road). By its clever incorporation of archival Carnival footage, the official video further elevates the genius of the song by showing how it seamlessly spans generations and builds on the foundation blocks of calypso to produce a fresh soca offering. Even if it does not win Road March (though it has a very good chance!), “Savannah Grass” will go down in the annals of soca music as one of the timeless tunes that stir the emotions of Carnival lovers everywhere.\n2. “Rag Storm” by <PERSON>, featuring 3 Canal\nAn interesting idiosyncrasy of “playing mas'” and dancing to soca music is that somehow, people's hands go up in the air, usually with whatever they are holding at the moment, from drinks to facecloths. Colloquially called “rags”, these come in handy for soaking up the sweat while “jumping up”. The practice was not lost on <PERSON>, who wrote a song called “Get Something and Wave”, that won the 1991 Road March.\nHe echoed the concept a few years later with “Bacchanal Time”, in which he commanded masqueraders to “start to wave” as the brass section played the familiar “F-jam” or “tantana” melody in the background.", "264" ], [ "‘Minor Storm’ Causes ‘Major Losses’ in Parts of Trinidad & Tobago · Global Voices\nA screenshot from a YouTube video by <PERSON>, showing the flooding in some parts of Trinidad & Tobago after the passage of Tropical Storm Bret on June 19, 2017.\nAs of 5 a.m. on June 20, 2017, the tropical storm warning that was in effect for Trinidad and Tobago was discontinued — but in the aftermath of Tropical Storm Bret, the humour and lightheartedness of storm night has taken a sobering turn.\nA YouTube video uploaded by <PERSON> showed the devastating degree of flooding in south Trinidad as a result of the storm:\nThere were also reports of landslips, fallen trees, and rivers bursting their banks, but thankfully no loss of life, save for one incident in which a man fell and broke his neck running from the heavy rains.\nMany netizens shared their photographs and videos via Twitter:\nThe pomerac tree that fell on Ward 23 of the St Ann's hospital that housed 27 patients. Luckily no one was hurt @tv6tnt @expressupdates pic.twitter.com/e7VxaVuhgO\n— <PERSON> (@MarkBassant1) June 20, 2017\nGodineau River breaks its banks. Looking southward at the Sudama Teerath along La Fortune Pluck Road in Woodland. pic.twitter.com/5sHnPdrmK9\n— <PERSON> (@KarunaMoonan) June 20, 2017\nEffects of Tropical Storm Bret in Moruga @CNC3TV @tv6tnt pic.twitter.com/pBkbuIdfGG\n— Girl Child (@brittlrjohnson) June 20, 2017\nPhotos of the effects of Tropical Storm Bret came in from far and wide:\nManuel Congo, San Carlos Arima @CNC3TV @cnewslive @tv6tnt #TropicalStormBret #ResidentReporters pic.twitter.com/kYJxvgKH7C\n— <PERSON> (@kdia07) June 20, 2017\nCaroni River, Hydraulic Rd, Kelly Village, Caroni @CNC3TV @tv6tnt #TropicalStormBret #ResidentReporters pic.twitter.com/7Akg9UWAmh\n— <PERSON> (@kdia07) June 20, 2017\n@tv6tnt upper santa cruz this morning before blind school pic.twitter.com/RmdFkEa1Kt\n— Graeme Oliver (@TriniOli) June 20, 2017\nSome folks simply tried to make the best of a bad situation:\nResidents recreate in floodwaters in Pasea, St Augustine. The river is completely backed up and about to burst its banks.", "142" ], [ "@tv6tnt pic.twitter.com/Sxb0H6I0Sw\n— <PERSON> (@rynessacutting) June 20, 2017\nOn Facebook, <PERSON> shared photos and stories, and gave updates on several areas across the country, including reports that Mosquito Creek, a major south causeway that hugs the coastline, was flooded, making access from south Trinidad to the central and north of the island quite difficult. In a moment of frustration, he added:\nEveryone sees what's wrong with Mosquito Creek – has seen it for generations. But it's South of the Light House, so no one seems to care.\nBecause most businesses and government services are centralised in Port of Spain, there is a common perception that any place beyond the lighthouse — which is situated on the perimeter of the capital city — is of no import. <PERSON>, who posted a photo of the flooded Barrackpore area, echoed that concern:\nBecause the government and Port of Spain is ok, no word from the authorities on what they are doing in the South.\nFacebook user <PERSON> added:\nBut under all seriousness, yunno if somebody had the presence of mind to put a piece of monitoring equipment in the Caroni and the Creek to tweet when the water level reach a particular height that might not be the worst public service in the world. #JustSaying\nFacebook user <PERSON>, who lives in Brasso Seco, a rural community in northern Trinidad, provided an update:\nRains all night and still falling, electricity gone since 9pm and roads blocked in several places (flooding and slush by quarry, land slides by Christophene king, large tree falls before <PERSON> and perhaps more). Ministry of Works already starting from quarry with back hoes to clear the roads.", "142" ], [ "Caribbean netizens take to ‘extempo’ music to spread COVID-19 safety messages · Global Voices\n<PERSON> from Trinidad and Tobago takes up the COVID-19 extempo challenge. Screenshot taken from a YouTube video uploaded by King <PERSON>.\nTrinidad and Tobago is known the world over as the birthplace of calypso music and a key aspect of the genre is “extempo”. Short for “extemporaneous”, this lyrically improvisational form of calypso — which typically involves live contests in which performers spontaneously invent lyrics around given themes — is both popular and entertaining, due in some measure to the biting picong between the combatants of these extempo wars.\nSuch interactive performances typically include spectators echoing one of a number of refrains, the most common of which is santimanitay!, a derivative of the French phrase sans humanité (“without mercy”).\nIn the midst of the coronavirus pandemic, many Caribbean netizens — as well as members of the diaspora — have heeded the call of Trinidad and Tobago's reigning Extempo Monarch, <PERSON>, to try their lyrical prowess in a COVID-19 extempo challenge.", "264" ], [ "<PERSON>, three-time holder of Barbados’ Calypso King title, also claimed credit for starting the trend — but regardless of who issued the initial clarion call, the riposte was phenomenal.\nAmong the “first responders” were three-time Junior Extempo Monarch, <PERSON>, who would certainly appreciate that extempo, being a competitive sport of sorts, is ultimately judged by the inventiveness of the lyrics, and the poise and confidence with which they are delivered.\nSome of the best offerings included Trinidad and Tobago's current Calypso Monarch, <PERSON>, who urged Facebook users to “stay at home…don't go and roam”:\nOn a serious note 'bout this COVID-19\nYou have to wash your hands and practice proper hygiene\nAnd social distancing will make corona subside\nSo please comply and keep your ass inside\n<PERSON> took the opportunity to challenge some of her peers, including former Calypso Queen of Trinidad and Tobago, <PERSON>, who readily jumped in via YouTube:\nThe government trying the best they can to pound some sense into citizens\nMan, every day they on the TV, asking, begging, pleading with we\nDistance yourself, help flatten the curve; do them simple things your nation to serve\nNow I adding my voice, telling <PERSON>, ‘Stay home, stay safe and please don't get sick…’\nOn YouTube, Grenadian singer <PERSON> warned that the coronavirus does not discriminate, so everyone should strive to self-isolate:\nI sit home listening to the news thinking\n‘Bout the deadly virus COVID-19\nSad, a lot of people dead and they gone\nThe rich, the old, the poor and the young…\nIn fact, several singers from Grenada got together to do the challenge and send a strong message to the public about how their behaviour can help stop the spread of the virus.\nSt. Lucian musician <PERSON> also contributed, causing the country's prime minister, <PERSON>, to call him a “true patriot and ambassador”. His tune included these lyrics:\nLadies and gentlemen, the message now is clear\nCorona is serious but have no fear\nWe can win this war, yeah, we can win with ease\nAll we ask is that you kindly stay at home please…\nOf course, not everyone who participated was a professional singer, but many had musical talent, like Trinidadian Facebook user <PERSON>, who sang:\nThese are strange times and you know it's true\nCOVID-19 has changed everything that we do\nWe were living our lives with normality, going to work, visiting friends and family\nWe thought that those times would forever last\nBut this global crisis put that in the past…\nThis unnamed man from Dominica also offered a worthwhile contribution:\nWell, I say it must be a curse, this COVID-19 virus\nAnd it taking over the world, every man, woman, boy and girl\nIt affecting every country, cripple the world economy\nEverybody now search their soul, I say Jah taking back control…\nThree generations of the Caribbean diaspora, two of whom are health care workers, also teamed up to do the challenge.", "264" ] ]

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[ [ "apoquel and allergies\nso my dog was given cytopoint for skin allergies but she had an allergic reaction to it and it made no difference. we are going to try apoquel soon but im kind of worried about the side effects plus the cost. her allergies mostly affect her in the summer so would it be possible to wean her off of them in autumn? or on the other hand, keep her indoors? id feel terrible for it because she loves her daily walk but it helps soo much for her sore itchy skin.", "114" ], [ "reaction to medication??? please help\n2 days ago my dog (jack russell, female, one year old) was given an injection for a skin allergy. her skin has cleared up but now she has hives everywhere. especially around the eyes and nose, are very swollen. her face has slowly been swelling but the hives have literally just appeared in the last few hours.", "114" ], [ "she's acting fine, eating and playing. a little bit more lethargic than usual. i'm really really worried. i told my parents and they keep saying it's her allergies but she has never been like this before. please help", "664" ], [ "Is it okay to give my dog benadryl daily?\nMy dog is about 1.5 years old, some kind of lab / pit mix, 48 lbs. She's been itching pretty bad recently. She doesn't have fleas and her skin doesn't look abnormal.", "114" ], [ "The pollen in my town has been really bad and I think it's just allergies. When I give her benadryl it helps her a lot. Will it be okay if I give her benadryl everyday/ most days just during allergy season? I give her the correct dosage / under for her weight / breed.", "114" ], [ "dog’s spay wound infected\nmy dog got spayed 2 weeks ago and it was healing nicely up until a couple days ago when we noticed it swell up a little and start oozing some white/yellow puss. my vet told me to make an appointment with a physician, but i can’t afford to at the moment. is there any way i can treat it at home? we’ve been using vetericyn antimicrobial wound care spray on it since she got spayed to help the healing process; could i keep using this to treat the infection?", "881" ], [ "new pup, need advice!!\nmy partner and i just adopted an adorable 5 month old german shepard/alaskan husky mix. shes obviously stressed about the new environment because she wont eat or pee at her pee pad (but had no trouble peeing in carpeted room).", "833" ], [ "she was also just spayed so she’s very low energy rn. any advice for us as new dog owners? i.e. how to get her to pee at her pee pad, get her to eat, how to care for her since she just got spayed, training, etc", "881" ], [ "Is it okay with i mix my cat's medication with honey?\ni've a cat who needs to have a powdered bitter medicine. The vet recommended i mix it with water or small amounts of wet cat food but my cat here foams at his mouth whenever i feed him the medicine with water. When i feed it with tuna he just simply spits it out.", "505" ], [ "This morning my mom mixed his medicine with 2 small drops of honey and made this really thick paste and my cat seemed to like it a lot. Initially i didnt know and i panicked but he seems to do well as for now. Should i be concerned?", "176" ], [ "how to help dog settle into new home\nso my dog and i are staying with my boyfriends family for a short while. she is a well behaved and happy dog but she is a bit unsure. she is barking at everyone and seems quite frightened of them.", "601" ], [ "my boyfriend has a big family and lives in a busy area (she is used to a small family in a quiet area) she’s barking everytime she hears someone walking around or hears a neighbour outside and just seems very on edge. i imagine she is missing her friend (my other dog) a lot too and i feel bad. she feels unsafe around unfamiliar people in an unfamiliar place… how can i help her settle down?", "601" ], [ "Dog loves other animals, not aggressive at all but when i take her out in public she goes rabid if she sees another dog! Please read\nhi y'all, i have a 1.5 yo lab/pit mix. she lives w 2 small cats, 1 large dog and a little puppy. she is besties with everyone, specifically the little puppy. never acted aggressive.", "928" ], [ "the thing is, when i take her to a park or just out in public, if she sees another dog she goes CRAZY. she is a very large dog and although i know shes just excited the owner ger really scared because she's pulling with all of her might snapping and barking very loudly (she has a terrifying bark). ive taken her to the dog beach and prak before, she was perfectly fine. made friends with other dogs just fine.\nhow can i train her to not do this? sshould i just get a muzzle?", "928" ] ]

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[ [ "I recently purchased Fields of Fire, a solo only winter GMT wargame release. I’ve played about 4 missions of the game, all in the WWII era, and I think I can safely say that it is a game of interest for some individuals here, with some major qualifications. I cannot stop playing it and have been playing it most nights for the past week or two.\nIt has the strongest narrative of any game I've ever played. We talk a lot about narrative on the F:AT, but this really is the ultimate form of narrative in a game, through a simulation. I can remember 3-4 amazing, movie quality (not in an action hero way) moments in my mind's eye from my last game as I sit here. It presents a viewpoint on combat that is far, far different than anything I've ever played. And not in a gamey way a la Combat Commander. It also has an insane amount of replayability. Having 3 eras, WWII, Korea and Vietnam, that all play differently in the box means there is a lot of gameplay to be had.\nI am still not sure I can recommend it in good faith to most here, however. But if the description sounds interesting, and you do not mind doing some major rules wrestling to get there, you will find a very rewarding game. It seems I am always writing these wargame reviews for BGG and F:AT---fight through the rules and you will be rewarded. Nevertheless, I think good design ideas should be rewarded and are worth fighting for. Fields of Fire counts as one of those designs.\nWhat is the Game About?\nFields of Fire is essentially a solo tactical game, designed by <PERSON>, who has experience commanding in the Marines. Units represent squads and individual assets (heavy machine gun, artillery observer, etc). The player sets up the terrain, then comes up with a plan and assigns assets for his given forces (an infantry company, usually). The player then attempts to accomplish whatever the goals are (attacking, defending or patrolling) against an uncertain enemy in a given time.\nThere is no traditional map. In fact, the map is generated at the beginning of the mission dynamically by drawing terrain cards and placing them on the table. Each war has a different terrain deck (Vietnam has lots of jungles and nasty terrain, while Normandy has a lot of bocage and farmhouses). The map can be drastically different from mission to mission, even when replaying the same mission. You might draw a mostly forest and bocage Normandy mission, or you might draw more urban farmhouses and villages.\nThe enemy forces are similarly dynamically created; there is no simple mission scenario setup or anything of that nature.", "993" ], [ "Enemies are simulated not by placing enemies on the board at the start, but through placing various strength potential contact markers. These resolve differently whether you attack or defend. Resolving a contact chit means the potential of enemies appearing in cards. The placement and units vary dramatically. You may resolve several markers without any enemy forces appearing but it is more likely forces will appear in front of you and begin firing on you, oftentimes unobserved. There is a rhyme and reason to encounters, however, as dangerous markers yield enemies far more often and tend to produce more dangerous unit types.\nCombat results and the like are handled by a similar mechanism to the legendary game Up Front. No dice. There is a card deck that has various random indicators on it, a random number generator for truly random draws, and various icons on the cards that indicate things such as the results of hits, if shots hit. Etc, etc. All attempts to follow orders and act are handled with this deck. This means lots of reshuffling, which is a definite annoyance of the system. And unlike Up Front, which has a truly massive action deck that takes a while to cycle through, Fields of Fire has a much smaller deck that you burn through quickly and reshuffle.\nA Simulation of Commanding, Not Controlling\nI must say Fields of Fire is quite a unique experience. In particular, it has a singular viewpoint of combat that bears no resemblance to current tactical wargame systems (ASL, Company of Heroes, Combat Commander, etc). That viewpoint is command, not control. Everybody who plays wargames constantly talks about command, what it means and how it is one of the most important things in simulating war. But in practice, command generally just means units have to be X number of hexes from a commander or, more commonly, the leader adds combat power to the army since he is so smart.\nThe viewpoint here is different. It is simulating commanders as the actors. All other units, outside of commanders, behave with some manner of AI. The best example is friendly units. Basically, friendly AI is pretty rudimentary. It will fire at units it sees and even continue fire into the brush if the enemy leaves.", "100" ], [ "This is a review that has been simmering for a long time. I’ve finished about 4 campaigns of this game and it has now been over a year, so I definitely have the perspective now to write this. I’d say most of my PBEM gaming time has been devoted to Clash of Monarchs (COM). Clash of Monarchs is a 2-4 player CDG simulating the Seven Years War in Europe. Well, I can now tell you, after many, many hours of play, that COM is absolutely a genius game: an extremely playable monster size game. Not a monster mapwise but rather gameplaywise and in campaign length. It was designed as a labor of love by <PERSON> over a period of many years and the time that was taken with it, in the same way as my favorite game, Here I Stand by Ed Beach, really shows. The game is relatively polished and is well tested and balanced. Don’t necessarily trust the commentators who have barely played the game or glanced at the rules proclaim how difficult it is to play and that the rules are X pages long. After even a modicum familiarity is reached, the mechanics really fall away and allow you to think about what you want to do and how you want to do it from a strategic standpoint. I rarely consult the rules while playing and can do almost anything a commander in the Seven Years War would want to do with his armies.\nSo what is Clash of Monarchs and why is it such a great game?\nComponents and Production\nThis is a big game, and the components are a mixed bag. The cards are wonderfully designed and look great. The colors of the counters, powers and cards really make the game look quite nice on the table. In particular, the period art that was chosen for all the counters and the cards is amazing. In fact, I would say COM has the most beautiful cards I’ve ever seen in a CDG. On top of that, almost all the leaders, even the minor ones from the minor powers (there are so many leaders in this game, many of which you won’t see in a single game), have unique, accurate art for them on the counters. Even the different army’s SP counters are unique and vary in color and costume depending on the country they are from and who they are. Cards and counters are really an A+ effort with great attention to detail.\nOn to the controversial map.", "504" ], [ "According to the BGG and CSW comments, apparently the map is so bad that it has basically caused people to give up on the game and give it bad reviews. The map is really a tale of two uses and I think I have some insight into it, though no excuses. I have played COM mostly via VASSAL PBEM and live play. In that context, the map looks great. It looks good and the borders are quite clearly delineated. It even has some stylish touches like the colour palette of the various spaces and their space ownership. Sounds great right?\nThen you pull it out of the box and try to play it in person. It’s obvious, at least to me, that this map was made on a computer screen, played via VASSAL, etc, and then something was lost in translation to the paper. It is dark. It’s not unplayable, as others seem to have suggested, but it does make playing the game and figuring out the passages between the point to point spaces much more difficult that they should be. Whether something happened to <PERSON>’s art on its way to the printers or there is just something about the palette that doesn’t transfer between a computer screen and the physical product, I do not know, but the map is definitely the weak point of the production. Don’t let this scare you away, however. And definitely don’t let anyone tell you the map makes the game unplayable or anything of the sort. It is playable, even in person with the art. It is not, however, close to ideal.\nNo False Choices in Cardplay\nClash of Monarchs is a CDG in the vein of Hannibal rather than Paths of Glory (POG). Forces are counted in SP and leaders, not armies with particular characteristics, are activated depending on their initiative rating. So <PERSON>, while a powerful commander, is hard to activate and takes 3 op or better cards to move---just as in real life, where <PERSON> in the Austrian command had to frequently plead, cajole and threaten <PERSON> to take any action at all. By contrast, <PERSON> will be continuously activated, moving all over the board and running circles around the Austrians with his 1 rating.\nIt is here where COM really shines. COM is a CDG where gameplay, not cardplay, dominates.", "92" ], [ "Intro (or I'm so excited!)\nThis is the first game review I’ve written in several years, but I felt strongly enough about Lost Battles to break out of my inertia and get back to the keyboard.\nI’ll start with my incredible anticipation for this game. I am exactly the target audience for Lost Battles. Like many wargamers, I fancy myself something of an amateur historian. I even went back to school in my 30’s to study military history, which culminated with a thesis on <PERSON>. So Lost Battles is right up my alley. It focuses on ancient warfare, it’s designed by Dr. <PERSON>, a history professor, and it’s accompanied by a several hundred page book that includes chapters on the history of the battles, the reasons behind the critical design decisions, and additional historical insights that can be gleaned by using the model. In addition, Lost Battles sports extremely high production values, with excellent artwork, mounted tiles, oversized and rounded edge counters, and even includes a second game of strategic warfare in the ancient world. I didn’t even blink when I plopped down the $130, including shipping, to preorder the game from Noble Knight Games.\nIt comes with a book! Talk about you designer notes\nWhen I received the game and opened the box, I was not disappointed. The bits really are excellent. The rulebook is glossy, with lots of pictures, and includes 35+ scenarios in the back. The counters and maps are great. Some folks complain that the green background on the counters, which matches the green grass of the board tiles, makes it a bit hard to see the units. I disagree and think they are great, making the figures on the units stand out.", "92" ], [ "Also, the unit counters have no combat factors of any kind on them, only excllent stylized artwork, and their type (as in Veteran Hoplite Infantry, or Levy Light Cavalry). They look great, and if you’re a fan of <PERSON> weapon systems matrix (in the excellent book The Art of War in the Western World) then you’ll love these guys.\nBeautiful, just beautiful\nThey only issues I see with the components are that the tiles warped a bit (not really a big deal since they aren’t too big) and that they didn’t include any system to keep the square terrain tiles from sliding around during play (this is a more significant issue). The latter point sort of bothers me, since even the designer recommending using the extra material on the edges of the counter sheets, of which there was plenty, to create puzzle piece locking edge pieces. Why didn’t they just die cut the sheet that way? Plus, the green of the units didn’t carry over to the edge of the counter sheet, so the frame would be stark white.\nWhy didn't they use the extra material to make a frame for the tiles?\nWell, it’s a minor quibble anyway, easily overlooked for a game that provides fun game play, a strong narrative, and historical insights.\nUnfortunately, Lost Battles does not provide any of these things...\nGameplay\nLet’s start with the design decision that ruined the rest of the game. The board is made up just 20 tiles, each of which is an individual location. Units from opposing armies cannot co-exist in a single tile, and every unit in a location must face the same direction. The designer supports his decision for such a coarse map with a few points (and since I sold my copy already I can’t refer back to the book, and will go from memory).\nFirst, he wanted to design a relatively simple game, that would play quickly, and therefore wanted to keep the map simple and both sides to around 20 units. That is an admirable goal, and one I have no issue with. In fact, Command and Colors: Ancients has the same goal and achieves it admirably.\nSecond, Dr. <PERSON> argues that due to our lack of specific and credible detailed information about the battlefields themselves, attempting to model more accurate renditions of the terrain is futile in any case, and prone to error. On this last point, I agree with the good professor, to an extent. The sources for many ancient battles make only the most general comments about the terrain, such a setting up behind a river, or on a clear plain etc. In many or most cases, historians can’t agree on where the battles took place, so we can’t walk the ground today, and in other cases the course of rivers has shifted, or other changes have occurred.\nTwenty locations in total? Bad move.\nThe problem is, Dr. <PERSON> went too far in abstracting the terrain, and made it too coarse. Afterall, we are talking about a game here, not a dry academic exercise...", "92" ], [ "Command and Colors System: Comparative Review of BattleLore, Memoir ’44 and C&C:Ancients\nIntroduction\nBefore I begin, I must state my bias. I am a fanboy. I greatly enjoy <PERSON> system, and I have enthusiastically taught a number of individuals all three games, which all parties have greatly enjoyed.\nI would have loved to include Battle Cry in this comparative review. But as it is OOP, I haven’t been able to get myself a copy to play enough games to do it justice.\nMy logged plays for the three systems are currently, which are the minimum number of plays for each game (as I sometimes forget to log!):\nBattleLore: 13\nMemoir '44: 24\nCommands & Colors: Ancients: 9\nA short description of the Command and Colors System can be found in the wiki at http://www.boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Command_and_Colors_Sy...\nAvailability\nBoth BattleLore and Memoir '44 are readily available at most online and local game stores. These are both published by Days of Wonder and consequently are quite easy to find.\nCommands & Colors: Ancients is published by GMT Games and is therefore only available at selected game stores. It can also be found at the GMT Website. Commands & Colors: Ancients is now in it’s Second Edition, and this comparative review has been completed using this Second Edition.\nReview:\nAs I often do, I’m actually going to start with Componants, as this is the first thing you get exposed to.\nComponents:\nOverview\nAs mentioned, being published by Days of Wonder, both BattleLore and Memoir '44 have exceptional component quality. The board is thick, the dice are wooden, the figures are plastic and the cards and counters are made of good stock.\nCommands & Colors: Ancients, being a GMT product, has wooden blocks, board is made from cardboard, dice are plastic and the cards are of good stock.\nBoard\nBattleLore – The Board is thick, solid and double-sided. The reverse side is made specifically for “epic” (double-sized) battles.\nMemoir '44 – The Board is thick, solid and double-sided. The reverse side is used for beach scenarios.\nCommands & Colors: Ancients – Many have griped that Commands & Colors: Ancients board is too thin, is hard to get flat and requires plexiglass to use. Personally, being the owner of plexiglass, I do not have a problem with this anymore. But I do admit that this is a legitimate gripe, as my first couple games without plexiglass was prone to sliding blocks.\nBest to Worst: Memoir '44 – BattleLore - Commands & Colors: Ancients\nFigures\nBattleLore – Nicely detailed and moulded plastic. There are also many different moulds for light, medium and heavy infantry, different cavalry, goblins, dwarves, archers, monsters etc.", "299" ], [ "Each piece has a flag holder, whereby the appropriate plastic banner is attached to show which side the unit belongs to. This leads to the first gripe against BattleLore which is the generic and numerous pieces. BattleLore can take a while to set-up in the attempt to find all the correct figures and a storage solution like the below is highly recommended.\nAlso, being used for both sides, all the pieces are a dull grey. For those with time and painting skills, this creates a blank canvas for some wonderful work, but for the majority of us, simply makes the figures seem a bit dull and generic.\nThe second gripe against the BattleLore figures is that many of the figures are a bit ‘bent’. A guide for fixing these is dropping them in nearly boiling water then shocking them in ice water. url has been kindly supplied by <PERSON> here: http://blog.battlelore.com/bent/en/\nMemoir '44 – Nicely detailed and moulded plastic. Memoir '44 figures come in two different colours and the different sides have different moulds. This gives each side it’s unique look, which again has been improved by meticulous painters. Because there are only a few different moulds per side, set-up is quite quick.\nThe one gripe is again that some of the guns are bent, particularly on the artillery and tanks. This can apparently be remedied following the guide above.\nCommands & Colors: Ancients – Wood blocks. I love the feel of the wood blocks. The stickers have great artwork as well. You will need to spend a few hours putting all the stickers on though, which is a negative. Have I mentioned they are wood? On the negative, you will need a storage solution such as below to make set-up proceed smoothly.", "581" ], [ "Maybe this review will help you decide whether or not you and your group of game lovers will want to invest in The End of the Triumvirate. You will get two perspectives here. One comes from me, <PERSON>, who loves just about anything Roman. The other comes from my wife, who likes to play some pretty hefty quasi war games.\nFor me, I like the game’s theme, as the atmosphere created during game play, especially with 3 players, is high tension. With 3 people the game is not about “Gee, how do I ride as quickly to victory as possible?” Rather, this game pretty much forces you to collaborate with at least one other player once or twice in the game. In other words, you, as <PERSON>, <PERSON>, or <PERSON>, must calculate and execute your plans that resemble some of the wheeling and dealing of ancient Rome. I like the game for this flavor: I shouldn’t stab my “alley” in the back yet until he helps me screw my enemy over.\nShould you be a total Rome freak like me, I can suggest some excellent books by <PERSON> that goes into excellent detail about how <PERSON>, <PERSON>, and <PERSON>, as well as other high officials, played politics in dark backrooms. These books have helped me appreciate history and the game, although I would have read the books for their own sake. (For really good reads, check out <PERSON>’s Caesar: Life of a Colossus , The Complete Roman Army , and In the Name of Rome ).\nSo, overall, I dig the game a lot. I would give it about a 7 or 7.5 out of 10.\nPros:\n• thematically fun and interesting\n• rules are easy to learn\n• players must make intelligent plans, deals, and then inevitably backstab opponents\n• 3 paths to victory (militarily, politically, or through competence acquisition)\n• rather quick game sessions\nCons:\n• some provinces that are just too crammed (i.e. Gallia Cisalpina and Spania Citerior)\n• I think the “Forum” might be better called the “Senate” (although I know I am not the one who designed the game…Forum works, though)\n• with 2 players, the game is bland\n• my wife doesn’t like the game (and I’ll get to that in a moment)\nFrom my perspective, I would play this game much more if it weren’t for my wife’s protests. If you are a gamer who is looking for something to play that does a fairly good job of creating a tense Roman political and military grab for power, well, then, get the game.", "504" ], [ "Just make sure you have other Rome fans to play with, or the box will probably collect dust.\nMy wife does not like the game for a couple of reasons. She finds moving governors in and out of collection boxes tedious. In addition, dropping coins and/or armies on the often crowded board also rubs her the wrong way. Character movement, to her, also seems odd. She believes the game is somewhat “broken.”\nDespite all her criticisms, she has won about half of the End of the Triumvirate games we have played, so she gets the rules. She just finds the game to be monotonous. She will, however, eagerly play Wallenstein, Shogun, El Grande, Tigris and Euphrates, and similar games, so maybe her criticism is fair?\nI will continue to try and convert my wife’s ways with EoT, as I noticed she kind of got into the deal-making aspect of the game when a friend played with us. At one point, she and I had to gang up against our friend to try and knock his competency levels down (which didn’t work, by the way). My wife is a person who plays competitively, aggressively, and she likes to mess with other players to handicap them. If I could somehow get her to see that aspect about EoT, the game box might not collect so much dust.\nSo, what do I suggest? See if you can play with somebody who already owns it. If you have players like my wife—critical and does not love all things Roman—then maybe invest in something else. If you are a romefreak, well, buy the game.\nHappy Gaming!\nRomefreak", "366" ], [ "Below is (for what it's worth) my comparison composition on the two biggest games released for the bicentenial of the War of 1812. I will be posting this to both games' folders on Consimworld, as well as Boardgamegeek.\nThe best way to preface this column is to give a light background for myself as a gamer. I grew up casually playing board games, and discovered wargaming in my teenage years. I never really had any opponents, so I would \"tinker\" with these designs from time to time, playing only the occasional opposed match with my brother. My love of military history made these games most enjoyable. Alas, as I approached adulthood the hobby slipped away. About two years ago, I dusted off my copy of Victory Games' \"The Civil War,\" learned how to use Vassal, called up my brother to give it a \"real shot\"...and the rest is history. Since then wargaming has been my sole major hobby. Still, I remain a lighter gamer compared to some others, purchasing only a few titles per year at most. This has to do with \"real life\" as much as it has to do with my desire to focus on a game and give it the attention it deserves.\nAlthough my main focus of interest lies in the U.S. Civil War era, the War of 1812 has always intrigued me. So, last fall I purchased \"Amateurs to Arms,\" followed by \"Mr. <PERSON>'s War\" this spring. I have played 3 or 4 full games of ATA, and about 2 games of MMW, and have tinkered a bit with both titles solitaire. Both games offer very different takes on what I consider to be a rather under-appreciated subject in wargaming - the War of 1812. Following is a comparison of the major aspects of both titles, from my perspective. I realize that this has been done before (on BGG), but I promised both designers that I would offer my alternative \"review\" once I have played both games to completion. So, here is another take!\nComponents:\nATA definitely has the edge in this area. The map is probably the most beautiful paper map I have seen for a wargame, and the counters are very colorful and detailed. The map DOES take some getting used to. The area movement combined with point to point (the wilderness trail) has thrown some new players off, and one really has to focus in on the map to see rivers and roads, to move units appropriately.", "52" ], [ "Units can also get crowded in smaller areas. But as a conversion from a historical map to a gameplay device, it is very well done. The texture and eye candy are unmatched. The various charts used with the game are functional pretty as well. The player aids and rule book are of the glossy variety, which some don't like, but I am fine with.\nMMW offers a paper map as well, and while this one doesn't have the same quality as the other offering, it has its own merits. MMW's map is also easy on the eyes, colorful, and very functional. Crowding is less an issue due to the ample space between point to point spaces on the map. The counters are simpler but very nicely done. Player aids are fewer but hey, this is a simpler game. A mounted map has just been released for this title, which I have not seen. However, I know of the quality of GMT's mounted maps, and I am sure this one is no exception and is going to be an excellent add-on for this game.\nBoth games are CDG (card driven game) titles. I think MMW has the edge in card quality when it comes to physical details. The cards in ATA are a bit more like poker cards, being lighter and a bit more flimsy...although, this does make them easier to shuffle. But as MMW decks are yearly-based, this isn't too much an issue and if you are sleeving your cards, it won't matter anyway. Conversely, the art work on ATA cards wins over MMW - some of the most beautifully-deisgned cards I have seen in a wargame. Yet, MMW cards are nice on the eyes too, and the more simplistic approach has its merits.\nRules:\nMMW wins out in this area, and that is mainly due to the organizational style of GMT vs. Clash of Arms. MMW rules are easier to look up, due to the index and the breakdown, whereas ATA prefers a more conversational, paragrphed approach. Both games are not that hard to learn after the first play, yet MMW's rules certainly make things a bit easier. I found myself only asking one or two questions throughout my first play of MMW. In ATA, I got hung up on a few things (namely, battles in a space with a fort).", "993" ], [ "Introduction\nTwilight Struggle is my favorite game. I have previously reviewed the 2nd edition, the Chinese Civil War variant from C3i #21, and the Late War Scenario from C3i #19. Between face to face play, wargameroom.com, and ACTS, I've played over 100 games in 2009.\nThis review is about the recently released Deluxe Edition from GMT Games. The game was designed by <PERSON> and <PERSON>, and the original version was released in 2005.\nIt is a 2 player game, and typically takes 2-3 hours to play a full game.\nTheme\nTS is a game about the Cold War between the USA and USSR covering the period from 1945-1989. While it's true the two superpowers never directly fired a shot at one another in that time, there were plenty of proxy wars where funding and weapons were supplied to the ideologically favored faction. This game simulates the ideological conflict on a global scale.\nComponents\nThe components for the new deluxe edition have been thoroughly revamped from the 2nd edition.\nThe game features a new, redesigned map with a gorgeous linen finish, mounted on a very sturdy board. Some nice new features have been added to the map, such as set up information being printed right on the board (see photo), and the space race track has been revamped slightly - now instead of \"The Eagle/Bear\" has landed being the end of the track, with the space shuttle and the international space station taking up the final two slots.\nThe map also has the Chinese Civil War variant box printed right on it (more on that below).\nThe counters are slightly larger and have nicely rounded corners. They're roughly half again as thick as the standard GMT counters, but very sturdy and will stand up to repeated play. They are not as thick as most Euro games, but since there will be times you'll need to stack these counters, it's my opinion that they're just right.\nThe cards are of the standard excellent quality we've come to expect and enjoy from GMT.\nIf I had to quibble about something, it would be the dice included in the deluxe set. They aren't as pretty as the ones that came in my 2nd edition/3rd printing set. They are, however, perfectly functional.\nThe rule book is clear and concise, and has been updated to include both the optional Chinese Civil War variant (form C3i #21) and the Late War Scenario (from C3i #19).\nFinally, the deluxe box comes with an insert. I'm of mixed minds about it. On the one hand, if you're like me and put your components in bags, the insert works beautifully.", "92" ], [ "If you're going to be making tuck boxes for the cards and wanted to use a Plano box for your counters, or even a counter tray, you'll likely be ditching the insert - otherwise, it won't fit!\nRules and Game Play\nIf you're an experienced TS player, you can skip this part and head straight for the Variations on a Theme and New Cards sections. If not, read on!\nTwilight Struggle is a card driven game played over a maximum of 10 turns. The game may end sooner (and frequently does).\nTwilight Struggle is fundamentally a game about area control. There are six geopolitical regions on the map: Europe (split into Eastern and Western Europe subregions), Asia (including the Southeast Asia subregion), the Middle East, Africa, Central America, and South America. Within each region are countries that have a stability number, representing how stable the government tends to be.\nHaving control of countries helps determine whether you have presence, domination, or control of a region, which in turn helps you earn victory points.\nWithin each region, there are a number of battleground countries, which are considered key to the region. They are distinguished by having their name in white on a dark blue background and their stability number is red.\nVictory Points and Winning\nTwilight Struggle uses a push-pull scoring victory track, with the scoring marker starting on 0. Every time you score points, you move the scoring marker in your direction. Victory in Twilight Struggle can occur in one of the following ways:\n1. if a player gets to 20+ VP at any time, they win\n2. if the DEFCON goes to 1, then the non-phasing player wins (more on that below)\n3. if a player controls Europe and Europe Scoring is played, they win automatically (more on that below)\n4. if someone plays the <PERSON> card as an event and ends the game, whoever has the higher VP total wins (more on that below)\n5. if none of the above happens, the winner is determined after final scoring at the end of turn 10. Whoever has the higher VP total wins.\nA player earns victory points in the following ways:\n1.", "597" ], [ "I suppose this is slightly timely with all the awards this game recieved (which I don't disagree with!) in the CSR awards. I'll just go through a few things about the game briefly, but most of my time will be spent on the gameplay/my thoughts on it.\nMy own wargame path:\nPrefacing all these comments is the rather interesting wargame path I've been on from my start in basic Euros a year or two ago; this is my first true hex and counter wargame (this and <PERSON> Musket and Pike series). I've become completely immersed in the CDG genre, playing and buying many, many of them. So the review is colored by that fact. Also coloring this is that my experience with this game has been almost entirely solo plays--I've only played it ftf once. Keep all this in mind.\nComponents:\nThe components are just fine, very functional, just like the rest of the game. The map is serviceable and the art is clean and recognizable but not exciting or drool worthy. The counter ratio, especially at the beginning of the game when all Russian troops are bunched up, is high for the size of the hexes. So things are a little sticky at the beginning in the small hexes, but once the game gets started things tend to get spread out a little bit. The setup on the counters and map is absolutely a lifesaver and whoever suggested that needs a hug or something. It probably shaves 30 minutes at least off the setup. Counters are basic, with the inclusion of two types of counters. I use silhouettes since I'm not a true hex and counter wargamer, I guess! I would prefer a heavier GMT box from MMP, just like Shifting Sands. But you can't have everything.\nGameplay Thoughts:\n--More than anything, this game is stripped down and tight. In fact, if I had one way to describe this game, it would be tight. The rules are uncomplicated and there are almost no exceptions. The objectives are clear, and the types of terrain one will be fighting in are relatively limited.\n--the game plays great solo, the chit draw system makes it ideal for solo wargamers (and I know there are many out there). My ftf game was great fun as well, but the game doesn't lose as much as, say, a CDG, from playing solo.\n--This wargame has a dual identity in some ways. On one hand I would call it an ideal entry wargame for Eurogamers entering into wargames.", "993" ], [ "There is almost no chrome whatsoever in the game. The game is balanced, as far as I can tell, extremely well. It is very competitive. All units move virtually the same. The game is extremely positional as well and the CRT is not very variable, featuring almost entirely retreats. You generally know almost exactly what the result of combat will be. If one maneuvers correctly, the enemy will be defeated and to inflict losses one needs to surround the enemy. I think this is a great transition game for Eurogamers who are used to their \"elegant,\" self-contained mechanisms. In many ways, this is as close as wargames get to that style of rulebook and game system.\nOn the other hand, I would say that this is the ultimate <PERSON> competition game. It plays quickly and to go back to an earlier theme, feels extremely well balanced. Most wargames, in my estimation, require some sense of the players \"playing by the rules\" and making the game narrative proceed in an entertaining direction. Once players start to deviate, the game system often bogs down or breaks. Most wargames simply don't hold up well to two cutthroat players playing against each other, gaming the system against each other. But there are a few wargames that play quickly, feature little errata and therefore are ideal games for competitive wargamers to match wits in. In my experience there are not too many of these games, surprisingly. I think this game has a good chance to be a key part of the wargame tournament scene in the future.\nI find this dichotomy odd, but I suppose it makes sense--those same characteristics which make the game simple, play quickly, balanced, etc and appeal to new gamers could also lead to experienced wargame players playing often--> highly developed and refined strategies for experienced players.\n--this game is one of the few I can think of that doesn't need any exceptions to create historical gameplay. And that is really impressive to see--it speaks to the quality of the design, I think. The campaign develops historically and the Germans frantically try to hold on to rivers and cities while they wait for their powerful units. There is a great deal of tension. In some of my games, there even was a significant German counterattack.", "449" ] ]

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[ [ "It was a dark time for the Rebellion. Their champion <PERSON> had fallen at the hands of the Emperor. A rampaging Rancor had already demolished two of their once hidden bases. And the terrible Death Star was nearing completion.\nThen a figure emerged from the shadows -- small, green, powerful. With a wave of his four-fingered hand, <PERSON> distracted the Rancor using an old Jedi mind trick, leaving the Imperial headquarters on Courascant open to attack. <PERSON> led the charge along with with a fellow Jedi who had been in hiding. Just as they were about to reach the base, the Jedi felt his throat tighten. The Dark Lord of the Sith <PERSON> was choking the life out of him, and without his help the mission could not possibly succeed.\nBut <PERSON> wasn't out of tricks yet. With the power of the Force, he was able to deflect <PERSON>'s attention, and the Dark Lord took out his fury on one of his own men instead, killing a TIE Fighter pilot who had let the Jedi slip through their defenses unnoticed. With the path clear, <PERSON> and his team laid the charges to destroy the Imperial headquarters, bringing the promise of peace to the galaxy once more...\nAnd therein summarizes my first experience playing Star Wars: The Card Game. An eye-opening experience, not just for the story the game told, but for the whole package. Theme, mechanics, interaction... I was impressed across the board. So why are you only seeing this review now, months after the game was released?\nMy story is a fairly common one. I'm a huge Star Wars fan... like, named my daughter <PERSON> so I could have a little princess huge. Okay, so maybe my story's not THAT common. But like so many others I was very excited when FFG first announced they were doing a Star Wars LCG, and I salivated over the initial offerings of original artwork. And then came the waiting...", "605" ], [ "and more waiting... and the original project for a co-op was scrapped and the game was redesigned. More waiting... And finally the release. But by then I'd waited so long and things had changed so much that I didn't jump on the game right away. The initial reviews came in, and one common thread rose above the rest -- \"The game doesn't feel like Star Wars.\" \"The interaction of the cards is downright goofy.\" \"The theme makes no sense.\" \"How can you have a <PERSON> battling the Millennium Falcon\" And so on and so on. But then more reviews started to come out touting the gameplay, and so I finally made the leap and bought in. And boy am I glad I did...\nTo thoese who eschew the theme, let me quote my review title: \"I find your lack of imagination disturbing.\" In my first game I had no trouble whatsoever getting into the theme of the game, and I totally agree with those who say it has a strong Star Wars feel. At times you need a little imagination, but to me that just makes the game more fun and thematic, not less so. In my lead-in passage, my opponent played Force Choke which does 1 point of damage to a character, and I responded with Lightsaber Deflection, which redirects a point of damage to a different target. Strictly speaking does that make any sense? No, but from my write-up you can see it wasn't hard at all to envision another way in which those cards might interact, and to me that kind of creativity is fun.\nBut theme aside, the most important thing is that the theme doesn't matter... Because the mechanics are THAT good. In my time as Games Editor for InQuest magazine I played and reviewed probably around 200 trading card games. For whatever that's worth. (Note: I think it's worth at least something... if for no other reason than I have a pretty large basis of comparison.) And even after just one play I could tell that Star Wars: The Card Game was a special game. There are mechanics I haven't seen before, and that alone is saying something. Once you learn the rules (I highly recommend watching the [thread=http://boardgamegeek.com/video/24209]Team Convenant video[/thread] and then reading through the rulebook as I did), the game flows smoothly and easily. The goals are clear and you can jump right in, and since you start with most of the resource-production you'll ever need already in play, there's no slow buildup or \"mana screw\". You can hit the ground running, which is no small feat for a balanced and strategic card game.\nRather than rehash the gameplay and rules, which you can easily find elsewhere, let me just touch on the high points:\n* Edge battles.", "304" ], [ "Disclaimer: This is a devil's advocate review, written to present a minority viewpoint of those who might not like the game. In truth I'm a big fan of Through the Ages; it's one of my top-ranked games. But over time I have run into some issues, and I think there's some value in arguing the other side. While I still look upon TTA favorably, nothing in this review is a \"false\" opinion and I'll stand by everything I've written.\nIn the beginning the gods of gaming made Civilization, and it was good.\nThen came the ill-conceived Civlization: The Board Game. And it was not good.\nAnd then they tried to emulate the epic scope of Civilization with games such as 7 Ages. And it was... not as good.\nAnd finally there came Through the Ages. And there was much rejoicing.\n<PERSON> instant classic has soared to the top of the BGG ratings, and for many it has finally filled the hole of a millenia-spanning civilization game worthy to be mentioned in the same breath as <PERSON> seminal computer game. But does this game deserve the lavish praise it's been given? Is it truly a grail of gaming? Perhaps for some, but before you dive headlong into this sea of cards and cubes, there are several reasons why you just might have some reservations.\nTHE 800 LB. BASILLICA\nOk, so let's start with the obvious, the 800 lb. gorilla in the game room... This is a LONG game. Is it possible to play a complete game of Through the Ages in under three hours? Well, yes. Anything's possible. IF you and your opponent(s) have played several times and know exactly what you're doing. More likely, your first learn-and-play session will run in the four-hour range.", "504" ], [ "And if you try to play a four-player advanced game with one or more new players? Set aside a day.\nEven once everyone knows what they are doing, this is going to be a game of length. There are no strategies or mechanics which let you take a shortcut the endgame. You *will* go through every card in the deck -- albeit at varying speeds depending on the play styles of the players, but even so it takes time. From a design standpoint this certainly has its positives, since you can fairly predict and rely on the pace of the game and plan accordingly. But it also means there will never be a \"quick\" game of Through the Ages, or anything even remotely close to it.\nAnd it should be noted I'm referring to Full game. If your intention is to only ever play the the Starter or Advanced game, you probably shouldn't bother purchasing Through the Ages.\nHEY DIDDLE DIDDLE.\nGame play is extremely fiddly. Most of your turn is spent moving tiny little cubes and circles around, and even if you come up with a system for tracking your moves, it's fairly easy to make a mistake -- and even more likely that your opponents won't catch it. Did you adjust your science production? Did you remember to gain culture? Did you remember to clear the card row? Did you use your leftover military actions to draw cards? There's a long to-do list at the end of each turn, and every now and then I STILL realize on my opponent's turn that I forgot to do something. There's no question the mechanics work, but it comes with a price... a lot of book-keeping and maintenance, and if you forget just one small aspect of it, it can have a significant influence on the outcome of the game. Playing Through the Ages requires an intense level of concentration and attention, not just for the decisions you'll have to make, but to make sure you properly execute the mechanics.\nAN IMBALANCED BREAKFAST\nThrough the Ages' greatest strength -- the diversity of cards -- is also one of its potential biggest weaknesses. Even veteran players will tell you there are some clear imbalances among the cards, enough such that the online community has developed its own set of expansion/replacement wonders and leaders. Normally I wouldn't have SUCH a big problem with disparity in card ability, since there is a mechanism that lets you pay more for the cards you really want (take them early in the card row). Although that can be problematic as well, particularly in a 4-player game where the luck of the draw might prevent you from ever even having a chance to get a certain card. But where the issue lies is the lack of transparency, particularly for newer players.\nIn most games with cards, the differences in power levels are obvious. In Ticket to Ride, a wild card is better than a colored card. In games like Magic, power levels are leveraged by the cost to put the card in play.", "237" ], [ "Yes. This is a mistake in the Star Wars universe. <PERSON> had no understanding of space travel or physics. Which is why his starfighters swoop about the way World War II fighter planes did.\nIn modern explanation the \"past lightspeed\" bit has been retconned away. Instead there are the hyperdrive classes with a reverse scale. The higher the number the slower the ship. So a Class 1 hyperdrive is one of the fastest, but the Millennium Falcon has a 0.5 class hyperdrive. Twice as fast as a Class 1. Just how fast a Class 1 is is never really explained.\nThough if you really want to go into it, get some of the roleplaying books. They'll have chats for travel between star systems (and possibly distances).", "947" ], [ "You may be able to figure out how fast a class 1 is supposed to be from that.\nMore information: http://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Hyperdrive\n[edit] Okay this is a ridiculously rough calculation. I went and pulled out my old WEG RPG book and looked at the space travel section. It didn't have a map or distances or anything -- one of them does, but I don't have the time to find it now -- but it did make this statement:\nEven with a well traveled hyperspace route the fastest ships, such as the Millennium Falcon, would take several months to traverse the whole diameter of the galaxy.\nElsewhere the Galaxy was quoted as being 120,000 light years in diameter. Using this we can make a really rough guess at how fast the Falcon is, and from that, what the classes really mean. So we'll assume \"several\" is 6 months. Using that we can find that a class 1/2 hyperdrive would travel at about 28 light years per hour. So a class one's speed is about 14 light years per hour.\nI'll find that map and do a better one later. I'll note that the book does say that well traveled hyperspace routes, such as trade routes, can take significantly less time than less traveled routes. Why that would be, I dunno, but it hints that there is more going on to hyperspace than simply traveling faster than light. [/edit]", "947" ], [ "** For me, one of the best parts of gaming is trying out new games. It's awesome to think that your next favorite game might be sitting in the corner of a warehouse somewhere, dying to break out and bop you on the head. I like being introduced to unique mechanics and more ways to have fun. So while I can't promise this review series will be letter-perfect as to the rules explanations and such, I can promise you a candid recollection of the first game experience and whether it's worth trying or not. If you like what you've read, please check out my other \"First Impressions\" reviews!**\nFORBIDDEN ISLAND\nMy wife and I got to meet <PERSON> at Orccon 2010, along with the added bonus of being taught his new game, Forbidden Island. Being relatively new to the board game scene, this was a real treat. And I am happy to say that Mr. <PERSON> was a wonderful guy, very kind-hearted, and not shy about chuckling once and a while as we tried to beat his game! And let's talk about that experience.\nForbidden Island comes in a tin box, and is published by Gamewright. We have several Gamewright games that we play with our kids -- Moose in the House, Castle Keep, Tiki Topple, Frog Juice -- and I've been very pleased with both the games and the production value. Well, Forbidden Island is no exception, in fact -- I think the production level is up there with Tiki Topple. The four treasures that come with the game are fantastic molds, sturdy, and colorful to look at. Since acquiring them are the keys to the game, this is a nice bonus (although we didn't get to grab many, more on that later). The game comes with several tiles and cards (those ugly Gamewright card backs are still present, unfortunately) and you'll lay those tiles out to start the game and form your island. You and your fellow explorers are put out in the form of pawns.\nThe idea of Forbidden Island is that you and some friends have finally found this island, rich with untold treasures. The problem is that the island is sinking, so you need to get back to the helicopter with the treasures quick, before the helicopter (or you) sink into the abyss. It's a fun theme! And the way that it played was very thematic. It also was quite similar to one particular game in many ways -- Pandemic.", "504" ], [ "In fact, if you've played Pandemic before, I contend you probably don't even need to read the rulebook for Forbidden Island. The basics are all eerily the same: you have three actions on your turn, in which you can use to move or turn over half-sunken island tiles. There's cards you draw in the deck that you keep and use later to obtain treasures, and there's also cards that make the waters rise. There's a \"waters rise\" chart, in which you track the level of flooding. Getting the picture? Themes aside, mechanics are almost a direct port. That's probably something that's going to bother a lot of people, and make them wonder if this one is worth getting. So what do I think about that?\nLearning the game with the Leacocks.\nWell, I added \"Pandemic for all Ages\" in the title here, and it really is. One of the biggest differences between the two is that the playtime on Forbidden Island is somewhere between 20-30 minutes. Seriously, after a learning game I don't see how it can even go past a half-hour. The mechanics in this are such that it just doesn't take very long to find all the treasures (less likely) or plunge into the abyss (most likely). This is a good thing if you're looking for a light-strategy family game, or one to introduce to non-gamers just for a \"taste\" of future strategy games to come. There is definitely a niche for this game, and it is well-defined, especially if you look at the publisher's other games. For <PERSON>, designing this game had to be a no-brainer -- it's an excellent way to get a new game out on the market to capitalize on Pandemic's success and to hit different markets at the same time. But really, I haven't touched on the biggest difference about this game yet:\nRetailers are pre-selling it for around $12.\nNow, I haven't even said if I liked the game yet, and I don't think I've even attempted to really justify whether it's worth having both this and Pandemic on your game shelf. But for $12, what you are getting in this tin is FULLY worth it. To me, it's a no-brainer. And I'll reveal the secret: Yes, I like this game!", "884" ], [ "Lately I have been playing a lot of Arkham Horror, and it's not by choice. That frickin' game is popping up like the bird flu at every single gaming group I attend. I show up for someone's \"Game Night\" and somehow Arkham Horror hits the table! Now I'm not one of the jerks who sighs and rolls their eyes when someone proposes a game that I don't like very much. I try to get into it; I'm there to hang with the peeps mostly. I just wish we could play a game I wasn't so burned out on.\nSo this is why I was super-stoked when a friend of mine invited me by to play the new Star Trek: Expeditions game. I knew nothing about it, other than \"it was co-op\". So I showed up all happy, with a pep in my step, ready to get my co-op on. He started explaining the rules to me, showed me the board layout and turn sequence and all that stuff. I realized that the gaming consisted of you and your friends traveling around a board and making skill rolls while a turn counter clicks down. The game ends when the counter is out and you tally up your points for making rolls and see if you won.\nSon of a bitch! This damn game was Arkham Horror with a facelift! I can't escape it!\nBut, I still had to play the game. And as part of my resolution to myself, I had to review it. And that's going to be tough - because this game is 100% mediocre. Therein lies the problem. I don't know about you but writing reviews about crap I don't really care about is hard. I mean, if I love something I can blast out paragraphs about the mechanics, why they work so well together, and also compliment the components and all that good stuff. You know, a real gusher of a review.", "386" ], [ "And if I hate a game it's a lot of fun to sit around and pick it to pieces, making jokes about broken rules and why it's so boring and maybe twist around the title of the game to make a subtle feces reference in there somewhere. (I don't like to directly say a game is shit -- I like to imply it, you know? Keep it classy.)\nSo when you get a complete pudding of a game like ST:E you get stuck. I don't want to write one of those reviews where I paraphrase the rulebook and summarize a turn and say, \"Overall I thought it was pretty good. I award it 3/4 golden lampshades,\" or whatever. I like to put my own stamp on things and really give you a feel for my individual reaction. But there's nothing here to stamp down on. This game feels like a clone of Pandemic or Arkham Horror with a few very minor changes.\nBut the thing is, I used to love Arkham Horror and Pandemic. So now I'm second-guessing myself. Am I only down on Star Trek: Expeditions because it's a bland copy of two games I'm kinda sick of? Might you, the cool person of discriminating taste who is reading my review, enjoy ST:E if you haven't played Arkham Horror or Pandemic; will you get a few yucks out of mechanics that are (to you anyway) fresh and exciting?\nI dunno. In a lot of ways Expedition feels like first season Riker, where it's got some stuff you've seen before and some other stuff you haven't seen, but overall it's just kind of bland and not really living up to it's potential. This game needs to grow a beard, get out there, and be it's own deal. Maybe play the trumpet or something.\nWell I gotta review this thing so now that you've read my doubts for a couple of paragraphs I guess I should get into it. So, lemme remind you that all my reviews assume that you have passing familiarity with the game mechanics and components.\nTheme\nI went into Star Trek: Expeditions completely cold, knowing nothing about it. So I was super-surprised when I saw <PERSON> and the Crew of the Sexy New Enterprise (that's what I've come to call them, it's sort of like <PERSON> and the Funky Bunch) from the 2009 movie on the box. I figured that the game would be Star Trek Next Generation/DS9/Voyager. And frankly I thought that Trek 2009 is a terrible choice for the Star Trek theme, because there has only been one movie with these characters.\nNow don't get me wrong here, I thought the new Star Trek movie was pretty darn good. And I'm not a Star Trek super-fan (called a Trekker or a Trekkie...I can never remember, one makes them mad and one they are ok with.", "488" ], [ "All Right -- I will be the first to tackle a review of \"The Ares Project\". It has been nearly 2 weeks since Origins 2011 finished and there has yet to be a review posted, and from an active gamer, I think I can tell you why. There is so much game play packed into this little box that most of us lucky 60 who got a copy probably just do not know where to start. I now have 6 plays of the game under my belt, and I cannot even call this a full review.\nDisclaimer: I contribute to The Dice Tower podcast as one of the Father Geek guys. Although <PERSON> has been a long time contributor also, there is no contract that I have with him or <PERSON> to be nice. I have no bias at all but want to share this information in the name of full disclosure. I only met him for the first time while waiting for the exhibit hall to be opened as I rushed in to get one of the 60 copies, and yeah, it would have been a bit awkward if his game was either mediocre or bad, but fortunately it is not.\nDisclaimer: I have played five 2p games, all of them Terrans vs. <PERSON>, and a 3p game with the Xenos added in. I cannot claim a full review here as we have yet to crack the Colossus faction.\nEuro or Ameri-trash\nRather than your standard overview of game play, I am going to dive right into this question. Is The Ares Project an Ameri-trash game, or an Euro game? The answer may surprise. It is both. It is truly both. And it is beautiful.\nI am a gamer who swings the pendulum both ways. I go through phases where I like the pure strategy and economic honing a Euro gives, and then I go through <PERSON>-like YABE (yet another boring euro) phases where I just want to let the game and the dice take me on a fun ride allowing me to give a nudge of tactics or strategy here and there.\nThis game will be polarizing. There will be some who say it fails on both fronts. Then there will be some, like myself, who say it succeeds at being both.", "92" ], [ "Never before have I played a game that has such deep abstract strategy and tactics, while still telling a story, and still giving the thrill of chance as you absolutely need to roll under a 3 with 2 out of 4 dice. Sure -- I have lost and won games on the dice, but never did I feel like it was fully the fault of the dice. Each time I lost critical battles that swung the game, I could not honestly go back and claim that I played the best I could and have and lost on chance alone. In many ways I liken the pattern of the game to that of poker. Sure, you can lose a hand that cost you half your stack of chips because your opponent pulled a spade on the river, but regardless, the better player will usually win out in the end. Yes, you may lose a game because you rolled box cars (low is good), but for me, it just makes me want to play again...immediately.\nI don't care how Euro you are, I never met a person who does not like rolling a handful of dice. What Euro-gamers do not like is when that handful of dice is more or less the entirety of the game after all the theme and maneuvers are peeled away. For The Ares Project, there is so much depth of strategy in the opportunity cost of planning to use your finite resources; there is so much depth of tactics in how you construct for battle and commit to the line; there is so much depth of deduction in seeing snapshots of your opponents layout then guessing where he is going to take it. As a Euro-lover myself, we eat all of that right up.\nPolarizing? Maybe. Ground-breaking? Definitely.\nOverview\nI am just going to touch on this briefly as the rules give a good overview by themselves. The game is heavily inspired by Starcraft, in that it has 4 completely different races that have their own flavored rule set they follow alongside core rules in order to battle for control of the Mars landscape.\nIn RTS fashion, you construct buildings that allow you to construct units, which are how you ultimately achieve dominance to win the game. Each faction has very unique powers and abilities that are used to enhance the core game play. Unlike RTS, the game is not a \"dudes on a map\" game that involves careful territory control tactics. Battle is very abstracted in that you either try to gain a generalized control of the frontier, or you are striking at your opponents base.\nGameplay Summary\nAgain, this is a very brief overview. The rules give excellent examples to garner all the details. You play a card, you draw a card. That is it.", "237" ], [ "It is with more than a bit of pleasure that I sit down and take a moment to review Froggy Boogie, as the game has proven to be a big, BIG breakthrough at my house. But before I explain why, let's look at the details.\nPrice\n$25.95 full retail\nThe Components\nFroggy Boogie consists of nine \"mommy\" frogs, six \"baby\" frogs, eleven lilly pads (one a bit larger than the rest), and a pair of dice. Now, when I say there are nine mommy frogs, what I mean is that there are nine mommy frog faces and 18 mommy frog eyes, which are removable. This is an important part of the game that we'll dive into in a bit.\nThe pieces.\nAll of the pieces are made of hardwood, all are painted (including the the two dice -- no stickers) and all are very high quality. Even the box has a fine matte finish and is built to last. In short, this game with just a bit of care could last well into the 22nd century. The colors are bright, the overall theme is unified, and it is pleasing to the eye. My kids were immediately attracted to the copy sitting out on the table at the Family Game Store in Savage Mill Maryland, and <PERSON> went out of her way to show it off. I bought it at (gasp) full retail price.\nGame Play\nFroggy Boogie is a simple enough game, but has two magnificent mechanics that make it both accessible to little kids, and interesting enough to hold their attention.\nThe first mechanic that I'd like to emphasize is how the dice work. The dice have colors painted on their sides instead of numbers or symbols, and for each combination of colors that can appear there is exactly one mommy frog that corresponds (note in the photo above that each mommy frog has a base color with a different color stripe painted through the middle). In spite of two dice spitting out 36 different possible permutations, all combinations are covered by the 9 mommies available. The beauty here is that a four-year-old can look at the two dice colors and find the corresponding mommy frog with no help from mom or dad whatsoever, and kids love it when they can do it on their own.\nMy kids, ages ten, six, and four playing unsupervised.\nMechanic number two is how the baby frogs move. The goal of the game is to hop your baby frog from one lilly pad to the next all the way around the mommy frogs. You start on the big lilly pad, and with good skill you hop across all the smaller lilly pads back around to the big one again.", "511" ], [ "The baby frog that makes it home first wins.\nBut that's what you do, not how you do it. How you do it is this -- after rolling the dice you find the momma frog with the corresponding colors. Each momma frog has two removable eyes. One of them is blank on the bottom, the other shows a silhouette of a baby frog. You select an eye, lift it, and look to see which eye you have gotten. If the bottom of the eye is blank, momma hasn't seen you, and you get to hop to the next lilly pad. If the bottom of the eye has a frog on it, you're busted! You have to stay put. The first time each momma frog is selected, it's luck. But after that the players have to make it on their wits, carefully remembering which eye in each momma frog is going to let them get on their way to the finish line, and which is going to stop them in their tracks. Since all players see each draw no one has an advantage -- it's good solid competition.\nMy twins showing the two different eyes -- one with a frog, one without.\nThat's all there is to this game, and that's what makes it such a good play. A four-year-old can sit down at this game, understand the rules in ninety seconds, and be in the thick of it 30 seconds later.\nMy Impressions:\nI'm a big fan of pretty pieces, but to me a game has to stand on its own regardless of how it looks. Froggy Boogie is just plain a darn good game. The rules are ultra simple, the game play is easy to manage and captivating, and the game length is just perfect for its target audience. What I find remarkable about the game is that your average four-year-old isn't at much of a disadvantage to older siblings or even mom and dad in this game because it's a matter of simple memory and applying it. Given the amount of complication in my life right now (four kids including four-year-old twins) it's likely that my kids may be at an advantage on memory tasks.\nMy Kids' Impressions\nSomething remarkable happened today.", "511" ], [ "Dragon Parade is a game I picked up specifically with my 6 year old son in mind. The theme looked perfect for us and the price was right. My only misgiving is that the box has a recommended age of 10+.\nThis review is being written after several two-player games against my son.\nOverview:\n2-5 players try to predict where the Dragon will stop in this Reiner Knizia game publizhed by Z-Man Games.\nComponents:\nIn your small but sturdy box you get:\nThe game board\nA deck of numbered cards in Red and Yellow\nWooden pawns in 5 colours for the players\nCardboard coins for scoring\nThe Dragon\nThe Rules\nThe game board depicts the Forbidden City at the top center with two paths -- red and yellow -- that each wind down the board to their respective gates.\nThe deck is of standard quality. More variation on the artwork would have been nice, but the cards are completely functional. Likewise, the player pawns are of good quality.\nThe cardboard coins come in two sizes -- 5 points and 1 point. In a nice touch the 5 point coins have the familiar 'hole in the center' that old style Chinese coins have.\nThe wooden <PERSON> pawn, of course, is outstanding.\nThe rules are nicely illustrated and well written.\nOverall, the components are great, and complement the theme perfectly.\nGameplay:\nThe players try to predict where the Dragon will end up at the end of the hand. On his turn, a player will play a card and move the Dragon that number of spaces towards the red gate or the yellow gate. The colour of the card indicates towards which gate the Dragon moves. After this, the player places one of his seller pawns.\nPlayers are restricted in where they can place their sellers -- you cannot place a seller in a square that is adjacent to two occupied squares.\nAfter a player places his third seller he discards down to one card. The last turn in the hand will see the Dragon move about one last time before it stops. The hand can end prematurely if the Dragon makes his way through one of the gates. After all the moving is done, players receive points based on how close their sellers are to the Dragon.\nA number of hands are played equal to the number of players in the game.", "336" ], [ "At the end, the player with the most money wins!\nThe game plays like a tug of war with some opportunities to bluff. To succeed, you will need to anticipate your opponents' moves and plan yours -- the last move particularly -- accordingly.\nThe game is light and fast, and the small size makes it easily portable. We were able to play this at the neighbourhood McFood without troubles, and still have room on the table for what can loosely be called our dinner.\nWhile the box recommends an age of 10+, I have to believe this is a deliberate attempt to make Dragon Parade appear as more than a kids game. My six year old son had no problem at all learning the rules and playing the game. After a few plays he was even trying different tactics. This is certainly a game where younger players can enjoy themselves and compete, and the quickness of play means they are not likely to get bored before the game finishes.\nChild's Play:\nPlaying this game encourages planning and anticipation. After a while, a healthy dose of misdirection is evident.\nThe best thing a child can get from this game is a good foundation in integer arithmetic. The game is essentially an integer number line with the Forbidden City at 0, the yellow track as the positive integers and the red as the negative. As the Dragon moves between the two tracks, you end up reinforcing integer math. Try to get your child to move the Dragon without counting -- it's pretty cool to see them move the Dragon 7 squares from Red 3 to Yellow 4 in one jump.\nWho will like this game?\nIf you like fast, light games you can play with a child or non-serious gamers, this is a great game to buy. As an endorsement, my son likes this game quite a bit, and asks to play it frequently. And unlike some of his other favourites, I'm happy to oblige him.\nOn the flip side, it's not likely well suited for serious gamers, except as filler.\nUseless Trivia:\nThe Chinese characters on the large coins translate to \"Welcome Money, Increase Treasure\".\nSummary:\nComponents: Great, awesome theme\nGameplay: Fast and Light, suitable for young children\nRules: Good\nRecommendation: Great purchase if you play with kids, or like light, fast filler.", "336" ] ]

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[ [ "Malawi: The good, the bad and the hopeful in health care · Global Voices\nIn this post we highlight some of what Malawian bloggers are writing about the country's health care issues. We look at bloggers describing developments in eye care, reflecting on midwifery, expressing shock over negligence in hospitals and government waste, and we end with rare good news about the HIV/AIDS epidemic.\nDr. <PERSON> examines Malawian kids. Photo: Vision2020 IAPB\nWe start with Dr. <PERSON>, an eye care specialist, university professor and researcher. Dr. <PERSON> informs that The University of Malawi's College of Medicine has recently introduced a graduate training program in Ophthalmology. The number of ophthalmologists in the country has also increased, with three new ophthalmologists trained within the last two years. One of them is Dr. <PERSON> himself. The new Minister of Health, who is also a new member of parliament, Dr. <PERSON>, is himself an ophthalmologist, and for many years was the only one in the whole of Malawi.\nThe new developments in the training program and increase in specialists are a result of a program known as Vision 2020 Right to Sight, which Malawi has been pursuing for a number of years now. Dr.", "830" ], [ "<PERSON> writes:\nMalawi has been active in VISION 2020 activities since 2000, and has successfully organised VISION2020 workshops for Malawi, Zambia and Zimbabwe.\nMalawi completed the VISION 2020 five year Eye care plan in 2004, and progress has been made towards achieving goals to eliminating avoidable blindness by the year 2020 in Malawi.\nBased on the 3 pillars of VISION2020, in terms of disease control, Childhood blindness was set as one of the major priorities and a Paediatric Ophthalmology unit was planned to be developed in Blantyre.\nAnother Malawian blogger also blogging about health care issues is <PERSON>, a Malawian nurse currently studying in Norway. <PERSON>, as she addresses herself, started blogging in March this year after arriving in Norway. Her 15 years as a midwife-nurse, she writes, have taught her about the simple, free things that matter to women whether in Malawi or in Norway:\nAs an experienced para 3, i really missed the support of a midwife who could greet me and put herself in my shoes during antenatal, labour and postnatal periods. Having travelled miles away from my home and live in this scandinavian country, i have really appriciated that there are some things that cost nothing but are important for all midwives to do in the whole world. A smile, greetings, giving of comprehensive information, explaining procedures, respect, empathy, sympathy.With these little non costly commodities, our hospitals will be wonderful places for women.\nMalawian Nurse-Midwife, <PERSON>\nBut health care in Malawi also presents difficult problems especially to ordinary Malawians who cannot afford expensive private doctors. <PERSON> writes about a distant relation of his who recently hanged himself to escape deep financial problems he was ensnared in. According to <PERSON>, the man was still alive when people found him. They quickly took him to the hospital, where they found nurses and other medical personnel having their dinner.\nThey reporterdly went on with their business of eating the evening meal as <PERSON> lay in poor condition. By the time the medical staff had finished enjoying dinner and started to check on <PERSON>, he was no more.\nSadly, <PERSON> writes, such stories of negligence are not uncommon in Malawian hospitals, as per an incident he personally witnessed.\nOn one occasion I personally saw a mother holding a very ill young son rush into the hall of the referall hospital in Blantyre, QECH, to alert medics about the need for a trolley or a wheel-chair. Nobody seemed to care and the woman ended up handling the trolley herself…she was later assisted by a minibus conductor whose vehicle had kindly agreed to make a diversion to the hospital!\nAnother blogger, <PERSON>, expresses his frustration with a Government plan to study the feasibility of turning an old ship on Lake Malawi, the MV Chancy Maples, into a mobile hospital. According to <PERSON>, the idea has been proposed by some Scottish donors, who want the Malawi government to pay for the study at a cost of MK50,000,000 (US$357,143).\nAs much as I have respect for the Ministry officials K50 million can do a lot. Train at least 10 doctors, 200 medical assistance and 100 Nurses. Or better still can equip Lifuwu Hospital with drugs for five months.\nHow we lay our priorities should reflect the poverty and needs of Malawians.", "830" ], [ "Conducting Medical Research in Africa: Opportunities and Misconceptions · Global Voices\n<PERSON> in 2016 in Zambia with his permission\nMedical research conducted in Africa is often undercovered and ignored by the media, but it is a thriving field that highlights the continent's most pressing needs.\nThe reason why there is demand for locally conducted medical research is two-fold: Firstly, global health currently does not have the range of medicines and vaccines required to tackle the health issues specific to the African continent. Diseases such as AIDS, tuberculosis, and malaria have a greater detrimental impact on the poorest countries of Africa and a lack of investment in products targeting these diseases by pharmaceutical companies is a major problem.\nSecondly, research conducted by African scientists will serve to develop research capacities in Africa and an increased role for science and technology can only be beneficial to the continent's economic development.\nDr. <PERSON> is the director of the Central Laboratory at Centre for Infectious Disease Research in Zambia (CIDRZ). He grew up in Lusaka, Zambia in the 1990's just as the AIDS epidemic began to take a major toll on the national health. He left Zambia to pursue higher education in the United States in Louisiana, then Indiana. He conducted his own research on the HIV virus as a post-doctoral fellow at the University of Pennsylvania before deciding to go back home in order to make an impact on Zambian healthcare.\nGlobal Voices discussed both the future of medical research in Zambia and the things that the media gets wrong about such research in Africa with Dr. <PERSON>. (Disclaimer: Dr. <PERSON> is speaking in a personal capacity):\nGlobal Voices (GV): What is your research topic?\n<PERSON> RW: I'm doing a lot of implementation work currently, supporting the Zambian national ART programme with Laboratory testing. I am just starting a research programme in Molecular Diagnostics development for HIV, TB, and other pathogens of interest.\nGV: What do you see/think are the trending and hot topics in science in your country and Africa in general? How is it different from that in Western countries?\n<PERSON>: There is no basic R&D.", "926" ], [ "It's all implementation of solutions developed elsewhere. This has to change, otherwise we will always be receivers rather than makers. The received solutions are not usually ideal for our environment and making them work here correctly is sometimes impossible.\nGV: Where does the funding and support come from? Is it sufficient? How easy/difficult is it to recruit suitable scientists?\nRW: US and Europe. Different projects have different levels of funding. It is difficult to recruit people to come back or to move here, as funding and growth opportunities are better in other countries .\nGV: How are the research infrastructures? What are the obstacles in your routine research activity that you didn’t encounter before?\nRW: Basic infrastructure is not up to developed country standards and it costs a lot to get uninterrupted power, water, and Internet. Supplies are expensive and take months to be imported from other countries.\nGV: What are the public’s opinions towards science and scientists in Africa?\nRW: There is interest, but an extremely limited understanding of the scientific method. I would suggest critical thinking and the scientific method be taught in school to improve the situation.\n<PERSON>: In your opinion, what is the potential in scientific research in Africa, where it should focus on and how we can help its development?\nThere is amazing potential. I have seen incredible students of all ages. There is need for dedicated science education starting at all ages. Social sciences, computer sciences, big data, outer space exploration, healthcare (non-communicable and Infectious diseases), and traditional medicine efficacy will pay off big.\nGV: Could you describe the pros and cons of the life as a scientist in Africa vs Western countries based on your experience?\n<PERSON>: Mainly it is the speed of doing things and the access to expertise that are big challenges here. The system that journals have to put articles behind paywalls is also limiting the amount of information and the speed with which research can be done.", "693" ], [ "Malawi: Moving on Despite the Politics of Section 65 · Global Voices\nThe phenomenal story of 19 year-old Malawian blogger <PERSON> continues to attract attention from around the globe. <PERSON> began making headlines after his appearance at the TEDGlobal 2007 conference in Tanzania, in June, where he talked about how he built a windmill using locally available resources in a remote part of Malawi where the easiest means of energy is fuel, wood, kerosene and candlelight.\nEarlier he had dropped out of school after his parents were unable to afford his tuition fees. After achieving fame through the efforts of Malawian bloggers who first wrote about the story following a news item in a Malawian newspaper, and after hitting BoingBoing.net, Digg, Reddit, and Metafilter, <PERSON> has now been featured on My Hero.\nAs videos from the TEDGlobal 2007 conference become available online, <PERSON>’s speech at the conference can now be accessed through the conference’s website, on Youtube, on his blog, and also as a download. <PERSON> has also been writing about how he is making use of the money people have been donating through his blog, using some of it for home supplies, as well as preparing to go back to school:\nWhen planting season comes, I will use some of the funds to buy seed, fertilizer and urea for my family's crops of maize, ground nuts and beans.\nI have also opened a bank account and put funds in so that my family is now prepared for medical, food or other needs and/or emergencies. I have started saving for the rest of private secondary school, boarding and university, too.\nStill in the tech realm, <PERSON> has had plenty of tech news to report about on his blog. <PERSON> announces a campaign by bloggers around the world to unite against all forms of abuse, by blogging against this vice on September 27, 2007. <PERSON> announces that the campaign is being driven by Blogcatalog. <PERSON> also informs his readers that his blog is now viewable in ten major languages, by use of a free widget, from Google Translator Widget Blog.", "830" ], [ "This makes <PERSON>’s blog now readable in Arabic, German, Portuguese, Chinese, Italian, Russian, Japanese, Spanish, French and Korean. The other piece of news <PERSON> has for his readers is the forthcoming launch, on August 29, 2007 of MyLiveSearch, which <PERSON> says technology enthusiasts have been waiting with bated breath for.\nFor <PERSON>’s African readers and others interested in Africa’s technological solutions, the most exciting news is perhaps what <PERSON> announces as the invention of a new, low cost computer that runs on solar energy.\n<PERSON> points out that over 2 billion people in the developing world live in rural and remote communities that lack basic access to information and communication technologies–telephony, computing, Internet access. In response to this need, Inveneo, a non-profit social enterprise, creates and sells highly affordable and sustainable ICTs that are specifically designed for organizations–governments,NGOs,private enterprises–that serve rural communities with vital services that include education, health care,economic development,relief and telecentres. This is great stuff! You can visit their site and make a paypal donation. Theirs is indeed a great cause.\n<PERSON> reports that the computer is already available in Uganda, for US$941, which the government there says is tax-free. <PERSON> expresses excitement about this innovation, while also observing that the cost is too high for ordinary people in rural areas, the main target of the gadget. <PERSON> ends his post by inviting the company, UK-based Inveneo Inc, to Malawi where he says it will be most welcome.\nMoving on from the world of technology, the political atmosphere in Malawi has been hyper-charged for the past two months. No two terms have so dominated Malawian discourse in the last decade as have “Section 65” and “Budget.” Section 65 refers to the section in the Constitution of Malawi which forbids members of parliament from moving away from the party that sponsored them into parliament to another party also represented in parliament without a by-election.\nPresident <PERSON>, who himself left the party that sponsored him to win the presidency and started his own party, asked the courts to clarify the section, in the hope that the courts would rule in his favor as well as that of more than 60 members of parliament who also left their own parties to join the president in his new party.\nThe courts ruled on June 15 that Section 65 was indeed valid, and tension has been the order of the day in Malawi since then.", "830" ], [ "Tunisia: Watching Arab Media on HIV/AIDS · Global Voices\n<PERSON> is a Tunisian doctor, blogger and activist, currently based in the United States, who is dedicated to fighting the spread of HIV/AIDS in the Middle East and North Africa. In September 2008 he started a blog called HIV in the Arab World [Ar], which monitors Arab media coverage of HIV/AIDS.\nA wide range of subjects are covered in the blog, such as an awareness-raising campaign [Ar] in Tunisia, reasons for the spread of AIDS in Iraq [Ar], and a Saudi religious scholar's opinion [Ar] on the permissibility of marrying a person with HIV/AIDS.\nIn this post, <PERSON> tells Global Voices Online about his work, and how it all began.\nAIDS Awareness Ribbon, by <PERSON> (used under Creative Commons License)\nWhat prompted your interest in working in the field of HIV/AIDS?\nA family member died of HIV/AIDS when I was 11. This was in the 80s and at that time there was nothing we can do. This event shaped my life and made HIV/AIDS become part of the issues that are dear to me. During my medical school, I joined the Tunisian Association Against AIDS (Association Tunisienne de Lutte Contre le Sida) and never left the HIV field ever since. I worked in Tunisia, Lebanon and Sudan so far and I’m looking forward to help my colleagues and friends in more countries.\nWhat are the greatest challenges for people living with HIV in the Arab world?\nStigma and discrimination is definitely on the top of the list. Stigma is partially due in my opinion to the fear-creating approach that our governments and activists adopted as a main prevention message. Fear is often paired with ignorance and stigma is a consequence of this mix. Stigma makes it more difficult to convince people to get tested, and hence to get treated. It also contributes in denying basic rights to those who are infected and does not allow them to have security regarding their future (work, family…).\nWhen did you start the HIV in the Arab World blog, and who are you aiming at?\nI believe in the power of media in changing behaviours and bringing awareness. For many years Arab media has been neglecting the issue of HIV/AIDS and during the last years I observed some changes in the way they framed HIV/AIDS. I created this to better follow the way Arab media reports about AIDS and to offer to those interested a webpage that collects all the articles that talk about this epidemic in the MENA [Middle East and North Africa] region.", "926" ], [ "It is also a way for me to keep connected with the MENA HIV news.\nYou also have a Facebook group associated with the HIV in the Arab World blog – who is it for?\nI left the region in 2007 and moved to the United States where I work for the department of Global Health at the University of Washington. This move made it difficult for me to keep in touch with my friends and colleagues from the region. I created this Facebook group to reconnect with my friends and to offer an opportunity for activists and HIV/AIDS professionals to meet and discuss about the issues that are important to them. It is a primarily a networking tool and also a forum where news and emerging issues are discussed. The group is open only to those who are working in the field and has already more than 42 members from all over the Arab world.\nHow many HIV-positive people are there in Tunisia? Can you describe the work of the Tunisian Association Against AIDS [fr]?\nTunisia’s HIV epidemic is relatively small (3000 estimated cases/10,000,000 inhabitants). We estimate the prevalence to be one of the lowest in the world. This is due to male circumcision, a good healthcare system, conservative sexual behaviours and the government/civil society’s work. There is however a lot that needs to be done in order to prevent the disease from spreading larger. These actions include a need to target vulnerable groups with better designed prevention interventions and more work on the policy and epidemiology level.\nI joined the Tunisian HIV association in 1997. This NGO is the largest and one of the most popular ones in Tunisia. We work in the areas of HIV prevention, care and support, and advocacy. We cover the Tunisian territory with more than 5 local offices and we participate in many international activities and networks that represent to us a source of funding and partnerships.", "803" ], [ "‘The Position of Women in Science Has Changed for the Better’, but ‘Is Still Far From Ideal’ · Global Voices\n<PERSON> with her permission\nAs part of a two-pronged series of interviews with medical researchers based in Africa (read the first part here), Global Voices reached out to Dr. <PERSON>, who is currently working in Zambia.\n<PERSON> grew up in Pune, India, where she obtained her bachelor's and masters degrees in zoology and molecular biology, respectively. She then moved to the US and obtained her PhD in microbiology from the University of Pennsylvania. She is currently a postdoctoral research fellow at Yale University with a Fogarty Global health research fellowship to conduct research in Lusaka, Zambia.\nAs a minority woman who has research experience in India, US, and now Zambia, <PERSON> brings her unique views on women in science, science and public opinions, and what science can bring to Africa.\nGlobal Voices (GV): What drew you towards a career in science?\n<PERSON> (SI): I grew up in India and every year the monsoon season would be followed by an increase in the incidence of mosquito-borne diseases such as malaria, dengue and chikungunya. As a child, I observed how interventions like the distribution of mosquito bed nets and the introduction of fish larvae into standing water puddles to eat mosquito larvae helped with vector control and reduced disease incidence. I was impressed with how public health interventions using existing technologies can have a massive impact on human health. After the completion of my master's degree in molecular biology, I worked on a project to identify a novel drug target for Mycobacterium tuberculosis at AstraZeneca, India. My internship at the company taught me that multidisciplinary team efforts from basic laboratory researchers to public health workers are necessary to address critical global health concerns in a sustainable manner. I had the opportunity to spend a year in Lusaka, Zambia from 2008-2009 and I noticed the direct and indirect impact of HIV/AIDS that cut across all strata of society. This galvanized me to be part of the improvement of health care in resource-limited countries by combining basic research and public health skills. While I Iived in Lusaka, I volunteered at an NGO that provided peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and milk to the children that visited the clinic with their parents to obtain [antiretroviral therapy]. These meals provided both nutrition and a positive experience for the children attending the clinic, helping retain them in care. This experience drove home how diverse the range of helpful interventions can be, each with their own benefit and scope. I knew then that I wanted to pursue a career in infectious diseases and its translation into global health research.", "820" ], [ "Understanding and following the scientific method has provided a satisfying way of answering questions to indulge my curiosity in a way that is rigorous and well-defined.\nGV: In your opinion, what can medical research bring to countries where the needs for primary healthcare are more pressing?\nSI: Research can help build resources in less fortunate countries. This includes the introduction of technology and instrumentation, training and knowledge-building among local researchers, the generation of opportunities for employment and education (even through exchange programs). The development of research capacity can foster global partnerships and collaborations and result in the building of an organization's reputation. Outcomes with a more direct benefit include therapeutic (vaccines and drugs), public health interventions (mosquito bed nets, affordable water filters, assessment of gender-based violence) and income generating (generic drugs for instance).\nGV: Until recently, scientific research has been perceived as a man's world. Do you think that this false perception has changed and do you think women scientists are now more recognized for their contribution?\n<PERSON>: I think that the position of women in science has changed for the better in recent years. However, their place in a scientific society is still far from ideal. Even in developed countries, tenured women scientists are not paid salaries comparable to their male counterparts. They are more frequently overlooked for promotions and administrative positions. This situation is even worse in the developing world, where women's rights and the idea of equality are still a new/foreign concept. Women with strong, assertive and demanding personalities earn unflattering reputations, which could hurt their chances of making tenure, collaborations and attracting research students. Men with these same qualities are, however, revered and respected. Growing up in the developing world, I experienced women being required to toe their male supervisor's line (even though they were far more accomplished/brighter), discriminated against because they were female and subject to harassment from male professors/supervisors. In general, it felt like an uphill battle to be a woman scientist and these struggles had nothing to do with what should be gender neutral issues like funding and publications. In the US, I definitely felt more secure voicing my opinion, defending my research and applying for awards.", "693" ], [ "Malawians on the world stage: academic honors, music, science and technology · Global Voices\nThere is one discernible theme running through the Malawian blogosphere in the month of May. This round-up focuses mostly on what these bloggers have written in this month, now approaching its end. One Malawian has received international honors for his contributions to world scholarship, while two female Malawian musicians have launched their latest music albums outside Malawi. One Malawian scientist calls for the Malawi government to put in place mechanisms to prepare for the looming disaster that might possibly be triggered by global warming, and two Malawians have made their mark in the world of technology. It has been a month of Malawians showcasing their mettle on the world stage, and here with it all.\nHonoring a world class scholar\nBlogger <PERSON>, a Malawian journalist currently a Niemann Fellow at Harvard University, celebrates the news that a Malawian scholar has recently been honored by Rhodes University of South Africa, and that a former Malawi Broadcasting Corporation (MBC) journalist will be teaching at Rhodes University. The two Malawians being celebrated are <PERSON> and <PERSON>. <PERSON> was recently awarded a Senior Doctorate by Rhodes University for his world class scholarship in development studies and political economy. <PERSON> has been the Director of the United Nations Research Institute for Social Development (UNRISD) since 1998. The other Malawian is <PERSON>, who recently announced on his blog that he had resigned from MBC. <PERSON>, himself a journalist with the MBC, writes:\nI wish to congratulate Prof. <PERSON> and <PERSON> for the Rhodes Honours.", "830" ], [ "This comes to mind how quickly our great poets and academics such as <PERSON> and <PERSON> whom I have heard from so many people here at Harvard and beyond asking. <PERSON> and others have become symbols of their nations and ambassadors promoting good. Apart from the two, people like <PERSON> made an impact at the IMF, early May 2007 when I visited the institution I heard fascinating stories on how he used to move from office to office meeting his juniors and seniors alike to hear them. I was proud to be a Malawian when a room full of World Bank and IMF officials, one screamed, “Malawi is unique, it has its best leadership in the Presidency and Minister of Finance.” I hope the this Leadership given at the global institutions will extend into recognition of our achievers and use them as ambassadors to promote Malawi's values.\nMusic for the world\nTwo Malawian female musicians this month launched their latest albums, one in Nairobi, Kenya, and the other in Stockholm, Sweden. In Kenya it was gospel artist <PERSON>, while in Sweden it was musician <PERSON>. <PERSON>, Global Voices author, witnessed the Stockholm affair, and wrote on his blog:\nShe says she decided to launch here [Sweden] because she did not have adequate time to do so in Malawi as she was supposed to leave for studies in Sweden. <PERSON>'s album which has ten tracks (most in Chichewa and others in English) can be bought on Radio Yako (www.radioyako.com).\nIn another posting, <PERSON> writes about the Global Day of Prayer, Sunday May 27, arguing that the day is unlikely to make the headlines because of its religious nature. He reflects on this important day, posting pictures of a celebration of this day last year at Silver Stadium in Lilongwe, Malawi:\nPROBABLY the world's largest unity is to be reflected this Sunday on the Global Day of Prayer when people from over 190 nations will join together and pray for the world.\nBut to put this event in the headlines is direct rebuke to most of our global and national issues so editors prefer to keep it away. After all these are “religious things” and covering it would be ‘like promoting their faith’ they argue.\nMalawi and a warmer globe\n<PERSON>, a scientist with the Malawi National Aquaculture Centre, warns that global warming is real, and that Malawi is part of the areas in Africa that are at greater risk. He calls on government to take measures to address the problem:\nMy questin has been and is always “What is our role as Malawians ?” Do the parliamentarians take this issue with a priority? The image clearly shows that Malawi is in the band of “Areas at most risk”. Let us act now by putting in place necessary policy issues like-irrigation for all crop fields by the year 2030 or 2040, thats 10 yeras before the real thing is on our neck.", "830" ], [ "People with disabilities left stranded during national lockdown in Uganda · Global Voices\nUgandan national wheelchair team practices on the court on October 24, 2013, Uganda. Photo via DfID on Flickr CC BY 2.0.\nNearly a month after Uganda enforced a national lockdown and curfew, 25-year-old <PERSON>, who is deaf and blind, was shot by a team of Local Defence Units in Agago District, in the northern region.\nOn April 30, during a strict curfew due to the coronavirus, the LDU officers tried to speak to <PERSON> as he was walking. But <PERSON> could not see or hear them and continued walking when the officers shot him in the leg. <PERSON> had to amputate his leg and now endures the burden of another layer of disability that could have been prevented.\nBut <PERSON> who has hearing and speech impairments did not. The 25-year-old resident of Mugila West Village in Agago District, was shot 5 times in the leg, by LDU personnel enforcing the 7pm to 6.30am curfew. https://t.co/4NtjWnndLz pic.twitter.com/8umM4H00Xy\n— Kweeta (@KweetaUganda) May 11, 2020\n<PERSON>'s injury and additional disability are directly linked to the government's disregard for people with disabilities in the execution of its national lockdown plan. About 16.5 percent of Ugandans are people with disabilities (PWDs).\nIt took substantial advocacy and lobbying around the shooting of <PERSON> to have adequate PWD representation on the government’s national COVID-19 taskforce through its risk communication committee.\nThe needs of marginalized people, especially those of persons with disabilities were conspicuously absent in President <PERSON>’s COVID-19 directives.\n<PERSON>, who works for the National Union of Women with Disabilities of Uganda, told Global Voices:\nOne of our first interventions was for me to engage with our line ministry and to say that these directives are not inclusive of the special needs of persons with disabilities. We instantly began to get news of how the directives were impacting them [PWDs] negatively.", "328" ], [ "They had no information on what COVID is, how it is spread, who is COVID affecting, what the directives are about. People did not know about curfew. That is how the boy in the north gets shot. That is how the girl in the north gets beaten by LDUs.\n<PERSON> and her colleagues’ advocacy paid off.\nShe joined the task force at its ninth meeting and promptly began a project to translate pandemic-related information into sign language. Sign language interpretation was incorporated into all official televised addresses on COVID-19.\nWhile commendable, this progress was a little too late for some PWDs.\n<PERSON> travels around in a wooden wheelchair in Arua District, Uganda, via COMBRID-Friends of Disability Facebook page, used with permission.\nDilemma\nThe ban on private and public transportation was essential to prevent the spread of COVID-19, but the decision was not inclusive of PWDs, excluding those with desperate needs for health care or food supplies.\nWhile non-disabled people could easily walk to buy groceries, many people with disabilities made the difficult decision to drive a car or ride on a boda-boda or motorcycle taxi, out of necessity, at great risk to their personal safety.\n<PERSON>, a visually impaired teacher and nongovernmental worker in the northwestern district of Arua, was harassed by soldiers for allegedly flouting social distancing measures while walking with his personal assistant.\n<PERSON>, a woman with a physical disability in Kampala, the capital, was arrested and detained twice while driving to buy groceries. She told Global Voices:\nThe first time I was held at a roadblock for about 30 minutes. The second time, I was taken to Kabalagala police station. The District Police Commander expressed his remorse for how I was treated and after about an hour, I was escorted to buy my groceries.\nThe struggles of some PWDs exist at the intersection of class, gender, HIV/AIDS status and multiple disabilities or other power differentials, increasing their vulnerabilities.\nThe transport ban exposed some women with disabilities to sexual violence who could not escape their attackers. “Right now I have about five cases of women with disabilities who were raped because of this COVID lockdown,” <PERSON> told Global Voices.\nPeople with albinism need unfettered mobility to access skin protection creams, skin cancer surgery and post-surgery care, said <PERSON>, chief executive officer of Women and Children with Albinism in Uganda.", "803" ], [ "Twits and wits: Malawian bloggers on new technologies, nature, myths, Zimbabwe, and a hard work ethic · Global Voices\nSince the last Malawi roundup, the Malawian blogosphere has continued to be abuzz with posts announcing new technologies, news on Internet-based radios, existing radio stations going online, stories about farming initiatives, as well as reflections on nature and Malawian places of mythical, if not mysterious, interest. There have also been entries on the situation in Zimbabwe, politics in Malawi, and the hard work ethic that Malawians espouse when outside the country, among numerous other topics. Here with it all:\nTwitter and new technologies\nMalawian blogger, <PERSON>, writes about Twitter, a cutting edge technological innovation that enables users to update others on what they are doing at a particular moment. According to Soyapi, because of its adaptability between SMS function in cell phones, IM messaging, and webpages, twitter has a much greater potential in Africa, where there are much more cell phone users than Internet users:\nSo the launching of Twitter provides a good alternative considering that the use of mobile phones is much higher than that of computers. In Malawi for example, there are about 50,000 Internet users against about 700,000 mobile phone users out of a population of about 12 million. Twitter allows users to post a small update via SMS, instant messaging client and the web. Anyone who chooses to follow you will get that update on the Twitter home page, or their mobile phone of they choose to. Unlike most mobile phone web services, you can update via SMS from anywhere in the world and from virtually any handset.\nAnd still on technology matters, <PERSON> has issued a call for suggestions providing a name for what he terms an all Malawian Christian Music Internet Radio Station:\nThis is to solicit a name for an all Malawian music Internet Christian radio station. A motto will be a fantastic bonus. I will really appreciate an explanation for the choice of your name. There is no criteria for the name. Sorry that at this point there will be no rewards.\nJatropha, nature and mythical mysteries\nClement Nyirenda asks if there has been any progress in Malawi in the farming of Jatropha, a plant he says is an excellent substitute for tobacco due to its oil content, 50 year life-span, and fertilizer content, among many other unique attributes:\nNowadays, I get very excited when I hear news about the global anti-tobacco policies, although the masses in Malawi and other developing countries are not happy. In my case, I see this as an opportunity for Malawi to look into other useful crops to replace the destructive tobacco. Jatropha is said to be one of those dream crops. Jatropha is a perenial shrub suited to tropical climates with 50 years life span.", "830" ], [ "It starts bearing seeds after two years of planting. Seeds with shell have an oil content of 32%-35%. This oil can be used for the production of biodiesel, soap, mosquito repellent, organic fertiliser etc.\nAnd still on nature, blogger <PERSON> writes on his blog Where Flames Burn the Brightest about myths that surround two natural sites in Malawi, Malawi’s highest mountain, Mulanje, and Mwala wa Nthunzi, a rock said to spew out steam. <PERSON> talks about spirits that are said to haunt the highest peak of the mountain, Sapitwa, which translates into English as “Unsurmountable” or “Unreachable,” or “No go”. In 2003, a 29 year-old Dutch woman, <PERSON>, left fellow climbers behind, somewhere up the mountain, and proceeded to the dreaded Sapitwa Peak, alone. Rescue teams from Malawi and from the Netherlands spent several weeks searching for her, but she was never found. On Mwala wa Nthunzi, <PERSON> writes:\nMwala wa Nthuzi is one rock that has continued to puzzle me. Apparently the rock cant be removed from its original spot. When M1 [the main thoroughfare that runs the length of Malawi from south to north—Editor’s note] was being constructed, contractors would have the rock removed only to find it in its exact spot the following day. They tried removing it on multiple attempts but in spite of all their efforts the rock still returned to its spot. Today the rock is still there and the M1 just by its side.\nIn his other post, <PERSON> writes about the English Football League and comments on the new coach for the Malawi national football (soccer) team:\nFAM officially unveiled <PERSON> as Malawi national team coach. Good luck to the guy. Malawian fans can be really tough. They want results now. It is easy to understand.", "830" ] ]

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[ [ "Vengeance Is Mine\nTwice, hair-cutting is used as a form of abuse. Both times it is very harrowing, but the blade never punctures the skin. That's the fine line <PERSON> walks throughout this melodrama.", "1009" ], [ "It is sleepy and mundane but with every burst of drama, it thwarts expectations (reminds me of something <PERSON> said at a Q&A the other day, that he doesn't make genre films; he makes emotional ones). Upon learning that this film used to be called \"Haunted,\" I remembered <PERSON> asking <PERSON> if she is afraid of ghosts, as one lives in the bedroom she would occupy. I see now that she meant her mother, <PERSON>.\n35mm.", "61" ], [ "Dog Day Afternoon\nThank God I did not know anything about this movie because the experience I just had was transcendent.\nThe opening was so funny I was asking myself if this had been a comedy all along, until I realized that the absurdism was just a reality of the overall situation. It’s funny, yes, but it’s also tense and thrilling and tragic all over, to the point where I sobbed my eyes out during that one phone call towards the end.\nWhat a heartbreaking little moment that oddly encapsulates the personal cost of queerness, the lengths to which society can push you by means of rejection.", "471" ], [ "When a society doesn’t afford you dignity, you are forced to demand it.\nAlso, the actual bank robber <PERSON> is playing was as hot, if not hotter, than <PERSON> himself. No wonder the tellers were like “whatever you say, handsome”. Like, same.", "86" ], [ "Last Tango in Paris\nIncredibly difficult to watch, both as a story and metatextually.\nTaken at face value, everything is so raw and so natural. The performances are layered with such realism and sorrow. Plus the way <PERSON> and company shoot Paris is extraordinary, showing the suburbs and side-streets of the city with an identity all their own. The few landmarks used, such as that bridge from Inception, are made to stick out.\nThe bleakness of the scenario goes from beginning to end, but the film builds to a conclusion you know will provide only sadness. Thankfully you have the aging <PERSON> to play a man lost in his youth, put opposite the wise-beyond-her-years <PERSON>.\nBut with knowledge of how the film is made and the toll it took on <PERSON> in particular, The infamous rape scene has been the subject of scrutiny for years, and for good reason.", "306" ], [ "Even though it is supposedly simulated, I've never felt so disturbed by a rape sequence, nor felt the pain so much of the subject. Even in the context of the film the act plays out with a marked lack of consent.\nBut this isn't the only moment that disturbs and upsets, with so much of <PERSON>'s performance feeling manipulated and extorted. She's a stunning force opposite <PERSON>, the babe in the woods to his big bad wolf. Yet you cannot deny the talent of her actual acting, building a world-weary teenager who nevertheless feels as emotionally old as <PERSON> looks. We're not watching a <PERSON> and <PERSON> dynamic between the characters, but a bond between two adults who are afraid of growing beyond the roles they've made for themselves.\nBut what happens, say, when those roles are forced in place, are dictated, are abused?\nIn a film like Last Tango in Paris, where does performance end and trauma begin? This is what leaves you on the verge.", "306" ], [ "Poor Things\nI read the book this month and it instantly became one of my favourites. It is such an amazing and many faceted piece of literature that it is hard not to see this film now as a slight failure. There is a lack of ambition in how <PERSON> drops the setting, the framing structure and some level of mystery. It feels like the <PERSON> of 10 years ago might have tried and failed, but perhaps the sense of <PERSON> now is not to try at all. He instead hones in on specific elements of the novel, playing them to perfection.", "647" ], [ "It'd just hard for me not to spend a little time imagining what could have been.\nWhat’s left is a masterpiece in its own right. As so much is excised to focus on the mental journey of <PERSON>. The cinematography, costumes, score, production design. All emphasising what it is like to see the world through the eyes of a child, to be free of worldly pressure, but in <PERSON>’s unique case not to be treated as a child or to know the feeling of being under authority. Perhaps it would be better for the world if we were all afforded such a luxury.\n<PERSON> is sensational, but as is the full cast. <PERSON> really just cannot miss an opportunity to do a perfect line delivery.", "529" ], [ "Nostalgia\nFor all the poetry and transcendence and desperate sincerity there also is something so sour about this movie. I mean there's a lot of bitterness in <PERSON> in general that the One Perfect Shot crowd doesn't talk about so much (thinking of <PERSON>'s first reaction to seeing <PERSON> in Solaris) but in particular the moment when <PERSON>'s tape player craps out before his, uh, big moment in Rome is almost unbearably cruel.", "698" ], [ "But funny, too! Or the long take of <PERSON> drunkenly rambling to a small Italian child... It feels like the scene in Lenny when <PERSON> is bombing, but this time the room is halfway underwater. Knowing the backstory of this project it almost seems like it should be a self-pitying disaster, but it's all just sadistic enough to follow me around all day like a dark cloud.", "549" ], [ "Four Daughters\n<PERSON> has, per the title, four daughters; the shocking story of what happened to two of them (but really, to everyone in the family) is brought to life by Tunisian documentarian <PERSON>, who brings in two actors to play the two absent daughters for a combination of documentary and reenactment. “We’re going to relive it all,” explains daughter <PERSON>.", "549" ], [ "“It’s going to open those wounds.” She is not wrong. The turns of their story are shocking and occasionally hard to take, though they approach these memories with a combination of pain and humor; its feels something akin to <PERSON> \"Procession,\" an affecting example of filmmaking as trauma therapy. Innovative and inventive in form, and powerful in both its roars and its silences, this is one of the best documentaries of 2023.", "352" ], [ "Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas\nFor as bombastic as this movie is, to me, it is the cowardly younger brother of Apocalypse Now. You know, the one that makes you stand behind him at the computer and watch youtube poop memes.\nEveryone clearly Showed Up to work for this film…production design is fantastic (as expected), <PERSON> is doing some great proto-Rango work…and <PERSON> is responsible for the singular emotionally effective scene in whole thing (at the diner).\nEverything else is flashy immaturity.", "475" ], [ "A <PERSON> aside that goes on for too long. A guy whispering nonesense in your ear while he is chewing something wet. <PERSON> is obsessed with spectacle and iconography and nothing much else underneath, which is maybe fitting for a movie stumbling around Vegas I guess whatevwerrrrreeeeeeee\nanyways time to watch legally blonde 2", "698" ], [ "Anatomy of a Fall\nA movie about how deeply unserious and misogynistic the French are.\nIt doesn’t really do much new that other family-centered courtroom dramas haven’t done better save for exposing the many, often tiny biases against women that are engrained in society. The opposite of that same preconception that helps <PERSON>’s case in Kramer vs. Kramer mixed with <PERSON>’s uphill battle in Marriage Story.\nFunny how mockumentary-ish the filmmaking was at points, which was clearly meant to evoke immediacy but instead took me out of it.", "306" ], [ "It works to its favor that it’s helmed by an immaculate leading performance. <PERSON> carefully balances fear and doubt and so much constrained emotion. She probably won this the Palm d’Or all by herself.", "464" ] ]

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[ [ "Trinidad & Tobago photographers commemorate Earth Day 2020 with online challenge · Global Voices\nScreenshot of an image by <PERSON>, submitted to the Photographers Guild of Trinidad & Tobago's Facebook page as part of its Earth Day challenge. All photos have been republished in this post with the permission of the Guild.\nEarth Day, celebrated every April 22, looks very different this year from its previous incarnations. With the COVID-19 pandemic restricting movement and gatherings worldwide, this year's celebration has moved entirely online.", "941" ], [ "The event's website describes it as “far more than a day”:\nIt must be a historic moment when citizens of the world rise up in a united call for the creativity, innovation, ambition, and bravery that we need to meet our climate crisis and seize the enormous opportunities of a zero-carbon future.\nThe Trinidad and Tobago Photographers Guild is doing its part to heed the digital call to action, via an ongoing photo challenge that began nearly six weeks ago, around March 12, when Trinidad and Tobago recorded its index case of COVID-19.\nUnder the theme “(Stay) Focused”, the social media-based challenge invites photographers to share their work on the Guild's Facebook page. Thus far, topics have covered everything from fireworks to “macro” challenges to, well…Earth Day!\nGuild President <PERSON> spoke with Global Voices by telephone and said that given the country's stay-at-home instructions, photographers are encouraged to take photos in their homes and gardens or dig into their archives for uplifting images:\nWe're trying to keep the topics upbeat in order to keep people focused, and steer everyone's mental state in a positive direction while practising social distancing. … This can be a depressing time for creatives. There is very little work and it's very restrictive.”\nThe response from photographers has been fantastic, and <PERSON> notices a lot of interaction, encouragement and growth among community members — not to mention the joy they are bringing to the wider public by sharing their amazing shots.\nOn this very special Earth Day, when our natural world is beginning to heal itself thanks to the massive drop in human activity, these photographs are a blissful reminder of our precious environment and the responsibility that rests on our collective shoulders, post-pandemic, to be good stewards.\nPhotographer <PERSON> posted a beautiful shot of mangroves, with the hashtag “#protection for our coastlines”:\n#photoguildtt #earth#mangroves#protection for our coastlines\nGeplaatst door <PERSON> op Dinsdag 21 april 2020\nMangroves are critical in shielding against coastal erosion and helping to protect small island developing states (SIDS) against the ill effects of climate change through its effective absorption of carbon dioxide.\nThere were several pics of birds, symbolic of new life and regeneration — including baby birds in a nest and one hummingbird feeding another, both by <PERSON>:\n#earthday #photoguildtt\nGeplaatst door Photographers Guild of Trinidad & Tobago op Dinsdag 21 april 2020\n#earthday2020 #photoguildtt\nGeplaatst door <PERSON> op Dinsdag 21 april 2020\nThere were a lot of pristine beach — and beach clean-up — scenes, which really spoke to the Caribbean spirit.\n#EarthDay2020 #Photoguildtt#SocialMediaChallenge\nGeplaatst door Photographers Guild of Trinidad & Tobago op Dinsdag 21 april 2020\n#EarthDay2020 #Photoguildtt#SocialMediaChallenge\nGeplaatst door Photographers Guild of Trinidad & Tobago op Dinsdag 21 april 2020\nA Man-o-War adding a stinging beauty to the landscape of Manzanilla .", "941" ], [ "COVID-19 causes Trinidad and Tobago to cancel its Carnival for 2021 · Global Voices\n“Carnival Tuesday meggie”: Carnival lover <PERSON> gives a “meggie” – a hand gesture that brings the thumb and four fingers together in a sign of derision, scorn or rejection. Photo by <PERSON>, CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.\nIt may have been anticipated, but now it's official: thanks to the COVID-19 pandemic, Trinidad and Tobago's 2021 Carnival celebrations have been cancelled.\nPrime Minister <PERSON> made the announcement on the afternoon of September 28, calling the national festival “the perfect environment for the spreading of the virus.” Despite the inevitable economic blow the decision will have, he said, he's not prepared to take the risk.\nReaction, predictably, was split. While most people applauded the decision, calling it both “expected” and “solid”, others wondered about the fate of those whose income depends on the national festival. When one Facebook user called the decision “insane”, <PERSON> retorted:\nNO! it's realistic and logical is what it is. Everyone else has already gone ahead and cancelled theirs. I do not possibly see how any “right thinking” citizen of T&T could possibly think to put the country under further threat from Covid-19.\nTrinidad and Tobago Carnival 2020 was already over by the time the country recorded its first case of COVID-19 in March.\nOther countries that host annual Carnivals, including Brazil, have already postponed their 2021 events, but it is only the third time in history that Trinidad and Tobago has put theirs on hold—a history that Trinidadian author <PERSON> chronicled in his book “Parade of the Carnivals of Trinidad, 1839-1989″.\nIn the chapter etitled “Carnival in a World of War,” <PERSON> noted that the festival continued as usual during World War I, which was fought largely in Europe. After the war ended, the 1919 celebrations were known as “Victory Carnival”.", "1019" ], [ "During World War II, the festival did not take place at all between 1942 and 1945, although “spontaneous” celebrations happened on May 8 and 9, 1945 in honour of Victory in Europe (VE) Day, and on Aug 15 and 16, 1945 for Victory over Japan (VJ) Day.\nThe country's street festival was postponed from February 1972 to May 1973 because of the threat of the polio virus, so it is not as if the move to put off next year's Carnival celebrations is unprecedented. In fact, many netizens saw it coming, but hoped that a virtual celebration might take its place.\nIn a Facebook status update on June 24, <PERSON> predicted that “promoters are going to have to Zoom in fete-goers to the music and the vibe from concert halls in ‘foreign’ [abroad]!” Virtual Carnivals are something that costume designers like <PERSON> have already been experimenting with—the band she and her husband created for Notting Hill Carnival 2020 was showcased online.\nTrinidad and Tobago's Carnival stakeholders have also expressed excitement about the opportunity to share their creativity in the virtual realm. Facebook user <PERSON> suggested:\nWe keep forgetting that there are elements of carnival that are outside the realm of the street parade. We should adapt and showcase our calypso, pan, extempo and dimanche gras much like how sporting events are still being carried out.\nBoth calypso music and the steelpan instrument originated in Trinidad and Tobago. Extempo refers to an extemporaneous form of calypso, and Dimanche Gras, literally translated as “Big Sunday,” is a grand show at which coveted titles like the Calypso Monarch are decided.\n<PERSON> of Trini Good Media, which produces the “Talk ‘Bout Us” podcast, crowdsourced opinions on what a virtual Carnival might look like. Most commenters felt that simply delaying the celebrations would be best, with <PERSON> suggesting that it may be an opportune time “to re-focus to community Carnivals and limit the size of large bands.”\n<PERSON> added:\nAside from the issue of a vaccine being made available globally, it’s difficult to envision any Carnival 2021 at all, due to the commercialization of the festival, and the limitations of two major sources of revenue: Government expenditure will be prioritized elsewhere, and corporate entities will slash sponsorship budgets.\nHaving a 2021 Carnival may jeopardize the planning cycle for one in 2022. It will be almost impossible to execute, as Carnival mas [costume] production is essentially a 12 month cycle.", "264" ], [ "World Environment Day should mean more in Trinidad & Tobago this year · Global Voices\nScreenshot of turtle hatchlings at Trinidad's Emperor Valley Zoo, taken from the video shared on Senator <PERSON>'s Facebook page.\nTrinidad and Tobago greeted this year's World Environment Day, celebrated every June 5, with mixed emotions.\nWhile there was heartening news, such as the century-old South American river turtle living at the Emperor Valley Zoo in Port of Spain welcoming 18 new hatchlings, there were also concerns about the continued negative impact that humans have on the environment.\nSenator <PERSON>, the country's minister of agriculture, land and fisheries, shared a video of the turtle hatchlings on his Facebook page, noting that the mother laid the eggs during the peace and quiet of the country's COVID-19 lockdown:\n100 years old, 18 babies! […] It’s a signal made clear by COVID 19. As our planet develops at unprecedented speed, we must care for nature. Just over two months ago the Zoo announced the turtle laid eggs on land within its enclosure instead of the pond it had previously laid. The Zoo felt this was due to the closure of the facility in mid-March and the comfort the turtle may have felt in venturing out the pond and onto the sandy area to deposit the eggs. The hatching today is excellent news and demonstrates the importance on World Environment Day of striking the balance between human activity and care for nature. As UN Secretary General <PERSON> says in his 2020 message, to care for humanity we must care for nature.\nMeanwhile, the Facebook group The Land of the Hummingbird posted stunning photos of various types of hummingbirds, explaining:\nTo celebrate World Environment day, six of our little hummingbird gems.", "1019" ], [ "Trinidad and Tobago are so blessed to have 19 recorded species of hummingbird.\nIn that same vein, Facebook user <PERSON> thought World Environment Day the perfect opportunity to acknowledge the contributions of some of the region's environmentalists, singling out two “top birders in Guyana,” who she says are “so humble and willing to share their knowledge.”\n<PERSON>, a well-respected environmentalist and past president of the world-renowned Asa Wright Nature Centre, was hopeful that the day would be marked meaningfully and shared a few ideas of how that could be done:\nI am […] aware that the current COVID-19 Pandemic will put a ‘damper’ on celebrations. Nevertheless, I am hopeful that our Prime Minister and the Minister of Agriculture will take time off from their busy schedules to each plant a suitable tree of their choice on the perimeter of the Queens Park Savannah or in the Botanical Gardens. It is my wish that the newly appointed Chief Secretary of the Tobago House of Assembly and the Secretary for Agriculture of the THA, will each also plant a Flowering Tree in an appropriate place.\nDespite the state TV station broadcasting a series in the lead-up to World Environment Day which focused on everything from a “little fish from Trinidad which has given scientists a new understanding of evolution and natural selection” to the “delicate balance […] struck between commerce and nature,” other social media users were more pragmatic.\nPhotography studio Rapso Imaging was realistic about the challenges, reposting images of the country's main landfill — shots that won photographer <PERSON>'s first place in the professional category of the European Union's 2019 competition on the environment:\nWe are all connected to our garbage dumps as it is we who generate this waste that in turn severely impacts our environment. Venturing into the middle of stink of it was the only way that he was able to return with an image that tells the story of what we choose to ignore.\nOf course, we could easily share the pretty, the beautiful, and the breathtaking images, while ignoring the fact that we are choking our planet with the pollution we are generating, if we are not careful, humanity will pay the price.\n<PERSON> himself added:\nToday on World Environment Day, I chose not to share a pretty picture, this is our truth, our reality and it is time to stop burying our collective heads in the sands. This is simply [no] other issue that needs to be addressed in our World today, Our very survival depends on it.\n#sharethetruth, #worldenvironmentday\nUndoubtedly, the country and the wider Caribbean region have a lot a stake when it comes to the environment. Small island developing states are at the greatest risk for the devastating effects of climate change, including rising sea levels, coral bleaching, and the impact of tourism developments on coastal areas. Each Atlantic hurricane season, monster storms have been ravaging the region with increasing intensity.", "142" ], [ "Life in the time of COVID-19: A Caribbean perspective on isolation · Global Voices\nOne egg wears a face mask, while the other is in self-isolation. Image by <PERSON> on Flickr, CC BY 2.0.\nThe COVID-19 pandemic has affected every aspect of life the world over, and the Caribbean is no different. At the more southerly end of the archipelago, Trinidad and Tobago — as of April 17, 2020 — had 114 cases of the coronavirus, while Jamaica, to the north, was at upwards of 143 confirmed cases. In addition, various regional territories are under some form of lockdown or stay-at-home orders.\nIn the midst of this “new normal”, netizens have been sharing their experiences via social media. The three examples highlighted here are all different: one is a gripping account from a COVID-19 survivor, another is a traveller who had to quarantine at a state facility, and the final testimony comes from a teen with autism who writes about coping with self-isolation.\nAll of them had to dig deep in order to emerge on the other side of their adversity.\nSt. Vincent's ‘patient zero’\n<PERSON>, who describes herself as “a 34-year-old wife, mother and Vincentian lawyer”, became St. Vincent and the Grenadines’ first confirmed case after testing positive for COVID-19 on March 11, 2020.\nUpon her recovery, she shared her experience “not only to reassure those who have questions or fears but also as part of [her] own therapy” following what she calls an “unfortunate ordeal”.\nOn March 10, she contacted the island's Ministry of Health, Wellness and the Environment to report a persistent dry cough, which was worrying to her considering that she'd recently returned from the United Kingdom, where COVID-19 was quickly turning into an epidemic.\nAlthough her initial call was not taken seriously, she persisted until she got tested and immediately isolated herself at home, thereby preventing potential spread of the virus:\nI dare not imagine what the consequences would have been had I not insisted that I be tested for COVID-19 after having been told that I ‘did not fit the criteria’, as I would have been commuting daily and conducting business as usual.\n<PERSON>-<PERSON>’ anguish over her diagnosis was exacerbated when she discovered that her patient confidentiality had been breached:\nMy name and photos were being circulated on social media […] Imagine having to cope with a medical diagnosis for an emerging virus, while being in isolation away from your family and loved ones, with your business and staff impacted, while much inaccurate and malicious rumors are swirling around about you and your family.\nAlthough <PERSON> revealed that “isolation was difficult and has been a rollercoaster of emotions”, her COVID-19 symptoms were mild and she recovered without medical intervention. To her, the fallout from the unauthorised dissemination of her medical information was far worse than the virus itself — including the fact that people who were never even in contact with her were stigmatised.\nAfter 23 days in quarantine, <PERSON> is now fully recovered, having tested negative for COVID-19 on two consecutive occasions.", "1019" ], [ "She did have some advice for her fellow Vincentians, though:\nSTAY AT HOME. Be kind to one another. COVID-19 does not require the stigma attached. Desist from shaming and discriminating against suspected or confirmed cases and their family and persons in quarantine. […]\nNo man is an island. We need each other. It is important to let our loved ones know that we love and appreciate them. Leadership involves listening and making and communicating critical decisions with humility and with empathy.\nIn quarantine in Trinidad and Tobago\nIn an anonymous letter to the editor at Wired868, the virtue of empathy featured in a quarrantined patient's description of forced quarantine:\nLife in quarantine is sometimes being disappointed by the lack of empathy of your fellow countrymen.\nMaking the point that being asked to quarantine in a state facility is “first and foremost a national duty […] for your safety and that of your countrymen” the author also acknowledged that it is also more difficult to manage that self-quarantine — “and it isn't any safer”:\nIt is policing your co-residents because your health depends on them as much as it depends on you. It is reminding 21 other mates to: wash their hands after their vitals, before going to the fridge or to our make-shift kitchen counter, to not pick their nose, to keep on their masks, to keep their distance when they speak to you.", "1019" ], [ "World Oceans Day, in photos from Trinidad & Tobago · Global Voices\nSunset over the Caribbean Sea, ‘Down de Islands,’ Trinidad. Photo by <PERSON>, used with permission.\nWorld Oceans Day, officially designated by the United Nations (UN) in 2008 and celebrated annually on June 8, seeks to raise global awareness of oceans’ importance to both marine and human life, thereby striving to better protect them within the framework of the UN's Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs).\nGoal Number 14 focuses on the conservation and sustainable use of our oceans, seas and marine resources, since they “[drive] global systems that make the Earth habitable for humankind”:\nOur rainwater, drinking water, weather, climate, coastlines, much of our food, and even the oxygen in the air we breathe, are all ultimately provided and regulated by the sea.\nThis vital SDG reflects the fact that the majority of the earth consists of water; humans wouldn't be able to survive without it. This is especially true for Small Island Developing States (SIDS) like the Caribbean which are, more often that not, the first to be affected by climate change impacts such as rising sea levels, a fiercer annual Atlantic hurricane season, coral bleaching, coastal water pollution, overfishing, and the heating up of seawater which has caused an overabundance of sargassum. Such ecological imbalances are also adversely affecting Caribbean fisheries, while some regional governments’ sacrificing of fragile coastline ecosystems for economic gain exacerbates the problem.\nRegional environmental activists and leaders know exactly what the challenges are, but perhaps on this year's World Oceans Day, where the goal is revitalisation of our oceans, we need to be reminded of their purpose and beauty before we truly understand the importance of the collective action required to successfully defend them.\nThe oceans surrounding the twin-island republic of Trinidad and Tobago, to the south of the Caribbean archipelago, is a perfect example of all the ways in which the sea is meaningful — and crucial — to our very existence.\nThe Atlantic Ocean meets the Caribbean Sea. Photo by <PERSON>, used with permission.\nThe point, on Trinidad's north-east coast at the site of the Toco Lighthouse, at which the warm waters of the Caribbean Sea meet the deep blues of the Atlantic Ocean, is a poignant reminder that all the world's oceans, like all of humankind, are connected.\nThis beach in Paramin, along Trinidad's north coast, is a popular fishing spot. Photos by <PERSON>, used with permission.\nTrinidad's north coast is a great lure for fishermen.", "941" ], [ "Those who do it for sport often go after tarpon, while those who do it for their livelihoods catch everything from Kingfish to Mahi-Mahi. This particular spot, accessible either by boat or via a steep hillside descending from the village of Paramin, is frequented by fishermen, emphasised by the statue of <PERSON>, the patron saint of fisherfolk, which has been erected on the sand.\nClockwise, from top left: Damien's Bay in Blanchisseuse; Toco, along Trinidad's north-east coast, and an ocean view from Chaguaramas on the north-west. Photos by <PERSON>, used with permission.\nOceans play an integral role in physical and mental health. When Trinidad and Tobago's beaches were closed for months at a time as part of the country's COVID-19 restrictions, there were many petitions asking that they be reopened so that surfers could get in some exercise, residents who live in oceanside villages (like Toco, on the north-east coast) could get their children outdoors, and hikers (like the ones who religiously climb the Tracking Station trail in Chaguaramas on the north-west of the island) could connect with nature, which has been proven to be a source of relaxation and revitalisation.\nGrande Rivière beach along Trinidad's north-east coast. Photo by <PERSON>, used with permission.\nAt just over a kilometre in length, Grande Rivière is one of the most prolific leatherback turtle nesting sites in the country. The surrounding village, understanding how closely intertwined its livelihood is with sustainable environmental practices, tries to be as low-impact on the environment as possible, and has formal community groups that actively patrol the beach to protect the turtles and educate the visitors that come to see them during the nesting season, which runs from March to August each year.\nThe point at which the Nariva River meets the Atlantic Ocean on Trinidad's Manzanilla stretch along the island's east coast. Photo by <PERSON>, used with permission.", "495" ], [ "‘Support your local beekeeper’: Caribbean concerns on World Bee Day · Global Voices\nBees from one of the 60 colonies at the Carmel Valley Estate in northwest Trinidad. Photo by <PERSON>, used with permission.\nOn May 20, the world marks the fourth annual World Bee Day via a virtual event hosted by the United Nations’ Food and Agriculture Organization, guided by the theme “Bee engaged—Build Back Better for Bees.”\nBees play an important role in pollination, a process that is critical to the survival of ecosystems, biodiversity, food security and sustainability, and they have been under threat at rates 100 to 1,000 times higher than normal because of habitat loss and other human impacts, including the climate crisis. Unsustainable agricultural approaches like monoculture and the damaging effects of pesticides have greatly harmed the world's bee population.\nThis year's event aims to achieve global awareness of the ways in which the COVID-19 pandemic has heightened food insecurity, while advocating for ways in which to regenerate the environment and protect these vital pollinators.\nAcross the Caribbean, social media users did their part to raise awareness, sharing via WhatsApp and other networking channels videos about the occasion, some of which were aimed at teaching children about the importance of bees. St. Lucia held a World Bee Day panel discussion that chronicled the progress being made in the island's apiculture industry.\nIn Jamaica, the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) focused on the biodiverse and ecologically sensitive area of Cockpit Country, where the work of beekeepers there is testament to the fact that respect for nature can go hand in hand with development—it is, after all, the only sustainable approach.\nApart from its environmental importance, Cockpit Country is also hugely relevant to Jamaica historically. Its rugged limestone landscape, was where the Maroons hid after escaping from slavery under British rule. The area, however, continues to be threatened by unsustainable practices, largely led, according to the UNDP, “by small-scale farmers cutting trees to make yam sticks and charcoal.” Its report continued:\nSustainable livelihood alternatives like beekeeping deploy nature’s biodiversity warriors and pollinators to support income generating opportunities that are kind to the environment.\nA solitary bee draws nectar from what is locally known as ‘rabbit grass,’ at the Carmel Valley Estate. Photo by <PERSON>, used with permission.\nBeekeeper <PERSON> and his sister <PERSON>, who operate the family-owned Carmel Valley Estate in northwest Trinidad, agree. For bee populations to survive and thrive the way they need to, they say, support is critical.\nIn a telephone interview, <PERSON> noted that “wanton deforestation” is one of the biggest threats, and though, he says, the country's Forestry Division of the Ministry of Agriculture, Land and Fisheries is excellent, it is “severely understaffed.” Bees and other pollinators face habit loss as a result of land clearing for housing and farming. In the hilly farming community of Paramin, for instance, he says that land is being cleared by the acre, but farmers are not replanting the depleted forest areas at the same rate.\nMeanwhile, in farming communities on the country's east coast, <PERSON> notes that pesticide poisoning is a huge challenge.", "97" ], [ "Many farmers’ go-to insecticide “knocks down everything,” including indigenous pollinators. Trinidad and Tobago has as many as 50 species of stingless bees that fall into this category.\nOther challenges to the local bee population include the intermittent spraying of communities by the Insect Vector Control division of the Ministry of Health, in an effort to curb the presence of mosquitoes. Beekeepers nationwide have been asking the division to communicate more effectively about their spraying schedule in order for them to be able to move their bees to a safe area. Although the ministry's website says its approach involves a “safe, effective and economical integration of all appropriate and sustainable vector control measures,” Leif says the chemicals they use kill bees on contact.\nThe COVID-19 pandemic and resulting restrictions have made protecting bees even more difficult for Trinidad and Tobago's 300-plus registered beekeepers and over 7,000 bee colonies. The country is currently under a state of emergency, with a curfew in place from 9 p.m. to 5 a.m. Because bees only return to their hives in the evening, this is problematic for beekeepers who have found it difficult to get curfew exemptions should they need to move their bees in the event of a scheduled spraying. In addition, most beekeeping operations are not overt. Bee rearing tends to take place in forested areas, many of which may border farms that are using chemicals.\nBeekeepers at Trinidad's Carmel Valley Estate. Photo by <PERSON>, used with permission.\nThere is hope, however.", "97" ], [ "Glimpses of Hope as Dominica Rebuilds After Hurricane Maria · Global Voices\nA screenshot from the time lapse film “Dominica on the Move”, by <PERSON>.\nIn an effort to track citizen media stories of hope and resilience after the 2017 Atlantic hurricane season that wreaked havoc on several islands along the Caribbean archipelago, Global Voices recently entered into a partnership with Covela Foundation and the Organisation of Eastern Caribbean States (OECS) for the Caribbean Voice initiative.\nThrough this project, we've asked social media users region-wide to hashtag their experiences as they undertake rebuilding efforts. While natural disasters routinely make headlines, there are also stories to be found in the recovery process — inspiring stories of strength, determination and kindness.\nOne of the narratives that's recently caught our eye comes from the Facebook group, Embrace Dominica. Typically a travel and tourism-based page, it has taken up a bit of an advocacy role for the island's natural environment after the devastation of Hurricane Maria.\nOver the last couple of months, the page has shared videos about the ways in which both the private and public sectors have “been working tirelessly to ensure a sense of normalcy across the island”, including a story about one company that has pledged to rebuild seven primary schools and hundreds of homes.\nThe page has also applauded the support Dominica has received from its Caribbean neighbours, and intermittently posts photos of “scenes of recovery”, including rescued wildlife.\nBut certainly one of the most moving uploads on Embrace Dominica is a timelapse film by <PERSON>, which was shot between the months of April (pre-hurricane, when the footage shows off the natural splendour of the island) and September 2017 (post- Hurricane Maria).\nThe filmmaker talked about the process on his blog:\nI wanted to show various forms of nature in Dominica, such as rivers, mountains and beaches […] I also wanted to feature the Milky Way and so I reused the Grand Bay footage and captured a few new sequences from the Lindo Park hardcourt (2:30) and at Freshwater Lake.\nBut then came the hurricanes — Irma and Maria. <PERSON> continued:\nDominica was spared from Hurricane Irma, but we still felt its effects in the form of high gusts of wind and abnormally rough seas. I was able to capture these effects most succinctly in two sequences.\nThe first was captured from The Morne, overlooking the capital (0:54). The branches on the right of the frame give you an idea of how strong the wind was at that time. The second was on the Bayfront, near the Fort Young Hotel (1:33). If I didn’t know better, I would say that this was footage of the tempestuous Atlantic Ocean, rather than the usually calm Caribbean Sea.\nWe weren’t so lucky with Hurricane Maria.", "709" ], [ "The storm hit us as a Category 5 hurricane on Monday 18 September, with winds of 165+ MPH, while traveling at 9 MPH. The slow rate of movement coupled with high winds and torrential rain completely devastated Dominica.\nNo one was left untouched. Even the most prepared were caught off-guard.\nThe storm hit at night and I was unable to capture any footage of its destructive process. This is a probably a good thing, as I’m sure that if the storm had hit during the day, many people would have been tempted to venture outside. This would have led to numerous injuries and quite possibly, deaths.\nApproximately one third of the footage shown in Dominica On The Move comes from during or after the passage of Hurricane Maria. From 1:56 onward, you will see the drastic difference in the landscape and how it changed after the storm.\nHe concluded:\nThis film is definitely one of the crowning achievements of my journey as a photographer. More than 10,000 images and countless hours (in the field and post-production) were finely put together into a 3 minute, professional grade, 4K resolution video.\nI’m already planning future timelapse films, to hopefully showcase the return of our lush, green landscapes.\nThe video does a good job of illustrating the magnificence of Dominica's landscape prior to the storms, making the post-hurricane imagery harder to swallow. Viewers suddenly understand what the country has lost and what its inhabitants have suffered, in a much more tangible way.\nThe rebuilding efforts continue, with the cleaning up of treasured nature sites. The country's tourism authority is even offering “voluntourism packages” for anyone who would like to assist with the recovery and rebuilding efforts following the passage of Hurricane Maria.", "709" ], [ "Floods take parts of Trinidad by storm · Global Voices\nA screenshot of an overturned car that was pushed by the flood waters into the St. Ann's river on the outskirts of Trinidad's capital, Port of Spain, on August 3, 2021. Screenshot taken from a YouTube video by TTT Live Online, titled “Flash Floods Affect Maraval And St. Ann's”.\nTrinidad and Tobago is in the midst of its wet season and on August 3, experienced several bouts of intense rainfall which the country's meteorological office had warned might include “the threat of street flooding […] gusty winds [and] isolated flash flooding”.\nAlthough the met office explained that “near-normal rainfall is likely for August to October, but August is likely to be wetter than usual,” no one quite expected the degree of flooding that took place at various locations across the country.\nEven as the rains were coming down, people were sharing images and videos across social media platforms. The video below, shared widely via WhatsApp, was taken by a driver who was travelling along Saddle Road, in the country's northwest, which runs parallel to the Maraval River:\nhttps://globalvoices.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/WhatsApp-Video-2021-08-03-at-4.09.18-PM.mp4\nThe following photos were also taken along Saddle Road, just further south, at a point where the river course passes underneath the roadway:\nTwo different angles of the flash flooding in Maraval, Trinidad, on August 3, 2021. Photos shared widely via WhatsApp.\nThis video, also forwarded numerous times on WhatsApp, was taken from the vantage point of a residence off Saddle Road, close to the area's Water and Sewerage Authority (WASA) sub-station:\nhttps://globalvoices.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/WhatsApp-Video-2021-08-03-at-4.14.50-PM.mp4\nOn Facebook, the Trinidad and Tobago Weather Center posted various videos it received from social media users in different parts of the country, including these two, also from Maraval—but flooding was also taking place in nearby St. Anns, as the water levels of the St. Ann's River rose rapidly.\nComments on the Eckel Avenue flooding prompted social media users to address the question of how construction projects are approved.", "709" ], [ "It is a pressing issue that the Trinidad and Tobago Society of Planners (TTSP) and the Trinidad and Tobago Institute of Architects (TTIA) have been drawing public attention to via a series of articles in the media.\nFacebook user <PERSON> commented:\nIf you drive that road you'd notice how the contractor paved over the drains in the road. So the road is a river every time it rains.\nTrinidad and Tobago Weather Center posted another video, this time on Duncan Street in downtown Port of Spain, within close range of the ironically named East Dry River, which burst its banks:\nThis video, shared via WhatsApp, shows flooding in the same general area, along what appears to be either Picadilly or Observatory Street in east Port of Spain:\nhttps://globalvoices.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Eeast-POS.mp4\nComments on various posts called out the practice of littering, which was exacerbating the problem.\nBy late afternoon, as the floodwaters began to subside, clean-up efforts began, with disaster management teams being mobilised to help clear away the mud and debris left behind. As at the time of publication, no casualties were reported, though there was damage to property and vehicles:\nCitizens were warned to expect traffic delays, especially because the capital's main traffic hub, City Gate, was badly affected:\nWhile some commenters were quick to blame the government, Facebook user <PERSON> addressed her compatriots:\n[…] ask yourselves if any of u have ever thrown garbage onto the streets of port of Spain, if yes, then you carry just as much blame for your stupidity. Use a bin or take your garbage home!\n<PERSON> answered:\nThis goes hand in Hand. The Borough/City council has to make sure all drainage [is] cleared […] months before the Rain season. Also y'all that don't like to call on them when you're disposing your beds, fridges etc. You just take it [and] dump it at the side of the road or in the rivers. I've seen ppl do this then cry [and] complain when their homes get washed away.\n<PERSON> added:\nThis is what happens when no maintenance work is done! Drains aren't cleared! Rivers aren't dredged! River banks destroyed! Illegal development not stopped!", "142" ] ]

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[ [ "Simple formula based on the definition of tofolli gate.\nDefinition- If two qubits are in up states simultaneously then flip the third qubit and in other configurations do nothing.\nMathematically-\n\\begin{equation}|\\uparrow_1\\uparrow_2\\rangle\\langle\\uparrow_1\\uparrow_2|\\otimes\\sigma_x + |\\uparrow_1\\downarrow_2\\rangle\\langle\\uparrow_1\\downarrow_2|\\otimes I+|\\downarrow_1\\uparrow_2\\rangle\\langle\\downarrow_1\\uparrow_2|\\otimes I+|\\downarrow_1\\downarrow_2\\rangle\\langle\\downarrow_1\\downarrow_2|\\otimes I\\end{equation}\nwhere $\\sigma_x$ is $x$-Pauli Matrix and $I$ is $2\\times2$ Identity Matrix.\nUp state for qubit one $|\\uparrow_1\\rangle = \\begin{bmatrix}1 \\ 0\\end{bmatrix}$\nDown state for qubit one $|\\downarrow_1\\rangle = \\begin{bmatrix}0 \\ 1\\end{bmatrix}$\nUp state for qubit two $|\\uparrow_2\\rangle = \\begin{bmatrix}1 \\ 0\\end{bmatrix}$\nDown state for qubit two $|\\downarrow_2\\rangle = \\begin{bmatrix}0 \\ 1\\end{bmatrix}$\n$|\\uparrow_1\\uparrow_2\\rangle = \\begin{bmatrix}1 \\ 0\\end{bmatrix} \\otimes \\begin{bmatrix}1 \\ 0\\end{bmatrix} = \\begin{bmatrix}1 \\ 0 \\ 0 \\ 0\\end{bmatrix}$\nand $|\\uparrow_1\\uparrow_2\\rangle\\langle\\uparrow_1\\uparrow_2| = \\begin{bmatrix}1 \\ 0 \\ 0 \\ 0\\end{bmatrix}\\otimes \\begin{bmatrix}1 \\ 0 \\ 0 \\ 0\\end{bmatrix} = \\begin{bmatrix}1 & 0 & 0 & 0 \\0 & 0 & 0 & 0 \\ 0 & 0 & 0 & 0 \\ 0 & 0 & 0 & 0 \\\\end{bmatrix}$\nSimilarly you can construct other terms.", "66" ], [ "As a general idea CNOT flips target based on control. I choose to flip the target if control is $\\uparrow (= [1\\ 0]^T)$, you may choose it $\\downarrow (= [0\\ 1]^T)$ too. So assume any general multiparticle state $|\\phi\\rangle=|\\uparrow_1\\downarrow_2\\downarrow_3....\\uparrow_{n-1}\\downarrow_n\\rangle$. Now you choose your control and target, lets say $i'th$ is control and $k'th$ is target.", "66" ], [ "Applying CNOT on $|\\phi\\rangle$ will be just \\begin{equation} CNOT|\\phi\\rangle=CNOT|\\uparrow_1\\downarrow_2...\\uparrow_i...\\uparrow_k...\\uparrow_{n-1}\\downarrow_n\\rangle= |\\uparrow_1\\downarrow_2...\\uparrow_i...\\downarrow_k...\\uparrow_{n-1}\\downarrow_n\\rangle \\end{equation}\nTo construct the matrix of such CNOT gate we apply $\\sigma_x$($x$-Pauli matrix) if $i'th$ state is up and we apply $I$($2\\times2$ Identity) if $i'th$ state is down. Mathematically, \\begin{equation} CNOT = \\Big[|\\uparrow_1...\\uparrow_i...\\uparrow_{k-1}\\rangle\\langle\\uparrow_1...\\uparrow_i...\\uparrow_{k-1}|\\otimes\\sigma_x\\otimes|\\uparrow_{k+1}...\\uparrow_n\\rangle\\langle\\uparrow_{k+1}...\\uparrow_n| + all\\ permutations\\ of\\ states\\ other\\ then\\ i'th\\Big] + \\Big[|\\uparrow_1...\\downarrow_i...\\uparrow_{k-1}\\rangle\\langle\\uparrow_1...\\downarrow_i...\\uparrow_{k-1}|\\otimes I\\otimes|\\uparrow_{k+1}...\\uparrow_n\\rangle\\langle\\uparrow_{k+1}...\\uparrow_n| + all\\ permutations\\ of\\ states\\ other\\ then\\ i'th\\Big] \\end{equation}\nNote $k'th$ state(target) is excluded while creating the permutation matrix and at $k'th$ position the operator $\\sigma_x$ or $I$ is written.\nTake an example of five qubits in which $2^{nd}$ qubit is target and $4^{th}$ is control. Lets build the permutation matrix of $CNOT$. I take, if control is $\\uparrow$ flip the target. You can take vice-versa too.", "66" ], [ "How to write the general state of a corrupted n-qubit codeword in quantum error correction?\nI am reading the chapter on quantum error correction in Quantum Computer Science by <PERSON>. Which says, for a single qubit in a random state $|\\Phi\\rangle$ of the superposition of $|0\\rangle$ and $|1\\rangle$, the general form of this corrupted qubit, when interacting with the environment in state $|e\\rangle$ is: \\begin{equation} \\tag{1} |e\\rangle|\\Psi\\rangle \\to (|a\\rangle\\textbf{X}+|b\\rangle\\textbf{Y}+|c\\rangle\\textbf{Z}+|d\\rangle\\textbf{1})|\\Psi\\rangle \\end{equation}\nwhere $|a\\rangle,|b\\rangle,|c\\rangle,|d\\rangle$ are four random state of the environment, and $\\textbf{X}, \\textbf{Y}, \\textbf{Z}$ mean a flip error, a combined flip error and phase error, and a phase error, respectively. $\\textbf{1}$ is the identity operator representing no error.\nFrom this, the state of a corrupted n-qubit codeword is:\n\\begin{equation} \\tag{2} |e\\rangle|\\Psi\\rangle \\to \\sum_{\\mu_{1}=0}^{3}...\\sum_{\\mu_{n}=0}^{3}|e_{\\mu_{1}...\\mu_{n}}\\rangle \\textbf{X}^{\\mu_1}\\otimes...\\otimes\\textbf{X}^{\\mu_n}|\\Psi\\rangle \\end{equation}\nI can understand the above two equations.", "680" ], [ "But when constructing the general form of the state of a corrupted n-qubit codeword with the assuming that at most one single qubit in the codeword suffers an error, the book says that 'the terms in (2) are dominated by those in which only a single one of the $X^{\\mu_i}$ differs from $\\textbf{1}$, and the general form of (2) becomes a superposition of terms in which each individual Qbit sufferers an error.\n\\begin{equation} \\tag{3} |e\\rangle|\\Psi\\rangle \\to [\\sum_{i=0}^{n-1}(|a_i\\rangle\\textbf{X}_i+|b_i\\rangle\\textbf{Y}_i+|c_i\\rangle\\textbf{Z}_i)+|d\\rangle\\textbf{1}]|\\Psi\\rangle \\end{equation}\nWhat I do not understand is that since we assume only one qubit has error, then only one of the $X^{\\mu_i}$ in $X^{\\mu_1}\\otimes...\\otimes X^{\\mu_n}$ in equation (5.16) looks like $|d\\rangle\\textbf{1} + |a\\rangle\\textbf{X} + |b\\rangle\\textbf{Y} + |c\\rangle\\textbf{Z}$. As a result, the state $\\Psi$ should only suffer error in this ith qubit. How do the auther get from (2) to (3) where all the qubits seem to have an error?", "680" ], [ "TL;DR\nThe size $c$ of the control register determines the success probability and approximation quality in Quantum Phase Estimation. It is chosen so that the approximation is good enough to enable the use of the (classical) continued fractions algorithm as the next step in Shor's algorithm. The size $t$ of the target register is simply chosen to be large enough to support arithmetic modulo $N$.\nBackground\nThe only part of Shor's algorithm which uses a quantum computer is the order finding subroutine. Given an integer $x=1,\\dots,N-1$ it computes the order $r$ of $x$ modulo $N$, i.e. the smallest positive integer $r$ such that $x^r =1 \\pmod N$. The subroutine relies on Quantum Phase Estimation algorithm which uses two quantum registers one with $c$ qubits and one with $t$ qubits and a $t$-qubit unitary operator $U$ with eigenvalues $\\exp(2\\pi i \\varphi_s)$ to compute a $c$-bit approximation $\\tilde\\varphi_s$ of $\\varphi_s$ for some index $s$. In <PERSON>'s algorithm, $U$ is a unitary designed so that its eigenvalues are $\\exp\\left(\\frac{2\\pi is}{r}\\right)$ for $s=0,1,\\dots,r-1$. Hence, $\\varphi_s=\\frac{s}{r}$. This enables us to find $r$ which is subsequently used by a classical computer to try to find a non-trivial factor of $N$.", "915" ], [ "See chapter $5$ in Nielsen & Chuang or <PERSON>'s paper for more details.\nTarget register\nThe unitary $U$ executed on the target register is used to perform arithmetic modulo $N$, so $t$ must be large enough to hold binary representation of all integers in $0, 1, \\dots, N-1$. Thus, the target register must be at least $t=\\lfloor \\log N\\rfloor+1$ qubits long.\nControl register\nThe control register stores the computed estimate $\\tilde\\varphi$ of the fraction $\\frac{s}{r}$ associated with an eigenvalue $\\exp\\left(\\frac{2\\pi is}{r}\\right)$ of $U$. To find the fraction $\\frac{s}{r}$ from the estimate $\\tilde\\varphi$ we use the (classical) continued fractions algorithm. However, the algorithm requires that $\\frac{s}{r}$ be a convergent of the continued fraction for $\\tilde\\varphi$. This will be the case if\n$$ \\left|\\frac{s}{r}-\\tilde\\varphi\\right| \\le \\frac{1}{2r^2},\\tag1 $$\nsee theorem $5.1$ on page $229$ in Nielsen & Chuang or equation $(5.13)$ on page $18$ in <PERSON>'s paper. Therefore, we desire an approximation $\\tilde\\varphi$ with at least $2\\lceil\\log N\\rceil+1$ qubits since then we have\n$$ \\left|\\frac{s}{r}-\\tilde\\varphi\\right| \\le \\frac{1}{2^{2\\lceil\\log N\\rceil+1}} = \\frac{1}{2\\left(2^{\\lceil\\log N\\rceil}\\right)^2}\\le\\frac{1}{2N^2}\\le\\frac{1}{2r^2}\\tag2 $$\nand so $(1)$ is satisfied.\nConstant space overhead\nNote that there is an additional constant (i.e. independent of $N$) overhead associated with the probability of success of the algorithm. Specifically, in order to ensure that Quantum Phase Estimation succeeds with probability at least $1-\\epsilon$ the target register needs to consist of\n$$ c= 2\\lceil\\log N\\rceil + 1 + \\left\\lceil\\log\\left(2+\\frac{1}{2\\epsilon}\\right)\\right\\rceil\\tag3 $$\nqubits, c.f. equation $(5.35)$ on page $224$ in Nielsen & Chuang.\nFor example, my implementation of <PERSON>'s algorithm in cirq uses $3\\lceil\\log N\\rceil + 3$ qubits overall to ensure that Quantum Phase Estimation succeeds with probability $\\frac34$.", "677" ], [ "The probability of obtaining the final state $| c' \\rangle$ from an initial state $| a' \\rangle$ is given by:\n$${|\\langle c' | b' \\rangle|}^2 {|\\langle b' | a' \\rangle|}^2$$\nConsider the first experiment where the $B$ filter is present. Let's say the orthonormal eigenstates $| b' \\rangle$ are $| 0 \\rangle, | 1 \\rangle, | 2 \\rangle, \\cdots$. The $B$ filter selects one eigenstate $| b' \\rangle$ per experiment. We wish to know what the probability will be when any $| b' \\rangle$ is selected.", "680" ], [ "Then, the probability of measuring any $| b' \\rangle$ with the $B$ filter amounts to:\n\\begin{equation} \\begin{aligned} \\text{Measuring any $| b' \\rangle$} =& \\text{ Measuring $| 0 \\rangle$ or Measuring $| 1 \\rangle$ or Measuring $| 2 \\rangle$ or} \\cdots\\ =& \\ {|\\langle c' | 0 \\rangle|}^2 {|\\langle 0 | a' \\rangle|}^2 + {|\\langle c' | 1 \\rangle|}^2 {|\\langle 1 | a' \\rangle|}^2 + {|\\langle c' | 2 \\rangle|}^2 {|\\langle 2 | a' \\rangle|}^2 + \\cdots\\ =& \\ \\sum_{b'} {|\\langle c' | b' \\rangle|}^2 {|\\langle b' | a' \\rangle|}^2\\ =& \\ \\sum_{b'} \\langle c' | b' \\rangle \\langle b' | a' \\rangle \\langle a' | b' \\rangle \\langle b' | c' \\rangle \\qquad ---(1) \\end{aligned} \\end{equation}\nNote that there is a single summation over the eigenstates $| b' \\rangle$.\nWhen there is no $B$ filter present, the probability is simply:\n\\begin{equation} \\begin{aligned} \\text{Measuring no $| b' \\rangle$} =& \\ |\\langle c' | a' \\rangle|^2\\ =& \\ \\sum_{b'} \\sum_{b''} \\langle c' | b' \\rangle \\langle b' | a' \\rangle \\langle a' | b'' \\rangle \\langle b'' | c' \\rangle \\qquad ---(2) \\end{aligned} \\end{equation}\nwhere the completeness relation $\\displaystyle \\sum_{b'} |b' \\rangle \\langle b' |$ has been inserted twice.\nSay:\n$$A | a' \\rangle = a' |a' \\rangle$$\n$$B | b' \\rangle = b' |b' \\rangle$$\n$$C | c' \\rangle = c' |c' \\rangle$$\nNow, assume that $A$ and $B$ are compatible observables: $[A,B] = 0$. (We also assume absence of any degeneracy.) Then $A$ and $B$ have simultaneous eigenkets. We rewrite $(2)$ in the following way:\n\\begin{equation} \\begin{aligned} \\sum_{b'} \\langle c' | b' \\rangle \\langle b' | a' \\rangle \\sum_{b''} \\langle a' | b'' \\rangle \\langle b'' | c' \\rangle \\end{aligned} \\end{equation}\nSince the eigenkets of $A$ and $B$ are simultaneous, $| a' \\rangle$ and $| b' \\rangle$ span the same eigenspace, and only one of the inner products $\\langle b' | a' \\rangle$ in the first sum over $b'$ will be nonzero. Let's assume that the nonzero inner product occurs for $b' = e$. In the second sum over $b''$, the inner product $\\langle a' | b'' \\rangle$ will be nonzero only for $b'' = e$.", "66" ], [ "To keep things simple, let's talk about two-qubit states.\nA single qubit could have an orthonormal basis ${|0\\rangle, |1\\rangle}$. But it could also have a different orthonormal basis ${|+\\rangle,|-\\rangle}$, where $$|+\\rangle = \\large(\\normalsize|0\\rangle \\small+\\normalsize |1\\rangle\\large)\\normalsize / \\sqrt{2}$$ $$|-\\rangle = \\large(\\normalsize|0\\rangle \\small-\\normalsize |1\\rangle\\large)\\normalsize / \\sqrt{2}$$\nNo suppose the two states you're trying to distinguish are: $$|\\psi\\rangle = \\large(\\normalsize|0\\rangle|0\\rangle \\small+\\normalsize |1\\rangle|+\\rangle\\large)\\normalsize / \\sqrt{2}$$ and $$|\\phi\\rangle = \\large(\\normalsize|0\\rangle|1\\rangle \\small+\\normalsize |1\\rangle|-\\rangle\\large)\\normalsize / \\sqrt{2}$$\nHere the first qubit in each term is <PERSON>'s and the second qubit in each term is <PERSON>'s.\nLet's say <PERSON> does a measurement in the ${|0\\rangle, |1\\rangle}$ basis. After the measurement the state will be projected into a new state, but which new state depends on the result of <PERSON>'s measurement.\nIf <PERSON> observes state $|0\\rangle$: $$|\\psi\\rangle \\rightarrow |0\\rangle|0\\rangle$$ $$|\\phi\\rangle \\rightarrow |0\\rangle|1\\rangle$$\nIf <PERSON> observes state $|1\\rangle$:$$|\\psi\\rangle \\rightarrow |1\\rangle|+\\rangle$$ $$|\\phi\\rangle \\rightarrow |1\\rangle|-\\rangle$$\nIf <PERSON> knows <PERSON> observes $|0\\rangle$, then he can distinguish the two states by making a measurement in the ${|0\\rangle,|1\\rangle}$ basis.", "66" ], [ "Likewise, if <PERSON> knows <PERSON> observes $|1\\rangle$, then he can distinguish the two states by making a measurement in the ${|+\\rangle,|-\\rangle}$ basis.\nBut if <PERSON> doesn't know the result of <PERSON>'s measurement until after he makes his measurement, then he doesn't know which measurement to make.\nIf the true state is $|1\\rangle|+\\rangle$ but Bob guesses it's either $|0\\rangle|0\\rangle$ or $|0\\rangle|1\\rangle$, then he's going to make a measurement in the ${|0\\rangle,|1\\rangle}$ basis. This means he's equally likely to observe $|0\\rangle$ or $|1\\rangle$, since the true state of his qubit, $|+\\rangle$, is an equal superposition of $|0\\rangle$ and $|1\\rangle$. Note that even if the true state of his qubit were $|-\\rangle$ (the only other possibility after <PERSON>'s measurement), <PERSON> would still have been equally likely to observe $|0\\rangle$ or $|1\\rangle$.\nSo after comparing results, <PERSON> and <PERSON> realize that <PERSON>'s measurement tells them nothing, and moreover the result of <PERSON>'s measurement by itself does nothing to distinguish the two initial states.\nEdit:\nI'm going to try to give a more general rule for which states <PERSON> and <PERSON> can distinguish with local measurements only (no communication until afterwards.)\nIf <PERSON> and <PERSON> aren't going to communicate until their measurements are done, then the combined measurement is effectively chosen before hand. As <PERSON> points out in his answer, this measurement will be a projection into the eigenbasis of $A \\otimes B$, where $A$ is a local observable that <PERSON> can measure and $B$ is a local observable that <PERSON> can measure.", "66" ], [ "Just to add on to what was said by there other answers, it is trivially true that for a composite system in $H^{A \\times B}$ composed of systems in $H^{A}$ and $H^{B}$, not every $\\hat{\\rho}{AB}$ can be written as a $\\hat{\\rho}{A} \\times \\hat{\\rho}_{B}$, but let us consider what the effects of the composite subsystems entangled-ness will be on the subsystems density matrices?\nFirst, embedded in your question is the fact that: if $\\hat{\\rho}{AB} = \\hat{\\rho}{A} \\times \\hat{\\rho}{B}$, then $\\hat{\\rho}{A}$ and $\\hat{\\rho}_{B}$ are both pure systems. This is because their density matrices can be written as $|\\psi \\rangle \\langle \\psi |$ and $|\\phi \\rangle \\langle \\phi |$ where $|\\psi \\rangle \\in H^A$ and $|\\phi \\rangle \\in H^B$ respectively.\nSo we can say \"Composite System Unentangled $\\rightarrow$ Subsystems Pure\"\nNow lets go the other way, what happens if we assume the Subsystems are pure? Without loss of generality lets assume $\\hat{\\rho}_{A} = |a_0 \\rangle \\langle a_0 |$ since we can just define a basis where pure state is a basis vector:\n$$\\hat{\\rho}{A} = |a_0 \\rangle \\langle a_0 |$$ $$=\\text{Tr}_B(\\hat{\\rho}{AB})$$ $$=\\text{Tr}B(|\\gamma \\rangle \\langle \\gamma |)$$ $$=\\text{Tr}_B(\\sum{w,x,y,z} \\gamma_{w,x} \\gamma_{y,z} |a_w b_x \\rangle \\langle a_y b_z | )$$ $$=\\sum_{k}\\langle b_k |(\\sum_{w,x,y,z} \\gamma_{w,x} \\gamma_{y,z} |a_w b_x \\rangle \\langle a_y b_z | )|b_k \\rangle$$ $$=\\sum_{w,y,k} \\gamma_{w,k} \\gamma_{y,k} |a_w \\rangle \\langle a_y| $$\nBut we know this has to be: $$=|a_0 \\rangle \\langle a_0 |$$ From the first line, therefore: $$\\gamma_{w,k}=\\delta_{w,0} \\sigma_k$$ $$|\\sigma \\rangle := \\sum_{k} \\sigma_k |b_k\\rangle $$ Which shows that $|\\gamma \\rangle = |a_0 \\rangle |\\sigma \\rangle$, which is unentangled.", "680" ], [ "So we can also say that \"Composite System Unentangled $\\leftarrow$ Subsystems Pure\"\nCombining both results gives the fact that \"Composite System Unentangled $\\leftrightarrow$ Subsystems Pure\".\nOf course this does not affect the trace of the total density matrix or even that of the subsystems, but it does affect the trace of the square of each of the density matrices. The result is also quite powerful in that it allows us to combine entangled-ness and mixed-ness of quantum composite systems, which is far easier both computationally and heuristically than involving the Von Neumann Entropies. It also allows for quick cheats on tests if one is asked to prove a state is entangled or not.\nFor further reading see Schmidt Decomposition and Singular value decomposition.", "976" ], [ "Trace distance of two infinite rank tensor product states\nLet $\\sigma$ and $\\rho$ be both density operators acting on different Hilbert spaces, $H_{1}$ and $H_{2}$ respectively. Also, let said operators have infinite rank. In the infinite dimensional case these may be treated as integral operators. Let $K_{\\rho}(x,y)$ and $K_{\\sigma}(u,v)$ the respective kernels. Now, let $H_{int} = X\\otimes P$ be the intereaction Hamiltonian governing the total unitary dynamics. X is the position operator and $P$ is the momentum operator. Where $X$ acts on $H_{1}$ and $P$ acts on $H_{2}$.", "956" ], [ "Finally, let $\\Lambda_{2}$ be a quantum operation that only acts non-trivially on the subspace $B(H_{2})$. i.e. $$ \\Lambda_{\\sigma}(\\rho\\otimes \\sigma) = \\rho \\otimes \\Lambda_{2}(\\sigma).$$\nI have been trying to compute the following trace distance.\n$$ \\|e^{-itX\\otimes P} \\rho\\otimes\\sigma e^{itX\\otimes P} - \\Lambda_{2}\\big{e^{-itX\\otimes P} \\rho\\otimes\\sigma e^{itX\\otimes P}\\big}\\|{1} $$ Where the trace distance is defined as follows. $$ \\|A-B\\|{1} = \\frac{1}{2}Tr\\sqrt{\\big(A-B\\big)^{\\dagger}\\big( A-B\\big) } $$ My question is independent of the specific structure of the quantum operation that I have laid out, i.e. $\\Lambda_{2}$, so we will need not select something concrete.\nNow, there are two approaches that I have taken. Here is the one that I am the most dubious about. Please let me know if any step is falacious. I will rewrite the state $\\rho$ using the dirac notation.", "916" ] ]

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[ [ "Matrix, Matter, Mother. Mother of all. Origin of all creation.\nWe come from matter. The root word of matter is mater, which means origin, source, mother. It is the root word of matrix, matter, mother, matriarchy, and so on.", "131" ], [ "This is the mother which gives birth to us in our physical world.\nThe urubobos – the primordial matrix – contains in “embryonic” form everything that can in principle possibly be experienced, and the thing that does the experiencing. The great serpent (the matrix) is therefore consciousness – spirit, before it manifests itself – and matter, before it is separated from spirit.\nThe matrix of all things is something feminine, like the mothers of experience; is something with an endlessly fecund and renewed (maternal and virginal) nature – is something that defines fertility and, therefore, femininity itself. Things come from somewhere; all things have their birthplace.\n...The eternally extant domain of the unknown therefore constitutes the matrix from which all conditional knowledge emerges.\n...The ancient Mesopotamian creation myth – the Enuma elish – provides a concrete example of the interplay of these “personalities.” This myth features four main characters, or sets of characters; <PERSON>, the feminine dragon of chaos, primordial goddess of creation (the uroboros and the Great Mother are conflated, as is frequently the case, in this myth); <PERSON>, <PERSON>’s husband and consort; the “elder gods,” children of <PERSON> and <PERSON>; and <PERSON>, sun-deity and mythic hero. <PERSON> symbolizes the great unknown, the matrix of the world; <PERSON> the known, the pattern that makes regulated existence possible. The “elder gods” symbolize the common psychological attributes of humanity (the “fragments or constituent elements of consciousness”), and constitute a more thorough representation of the constituent elements of the “patriarchal” known; <PERSON> – greatest of the secondary deities – represents the process that eternally mediates between matrix and regulated existence....\nThe unknown is unexplored territory, nature, the unconscious, dionysian force, the id, the Great Mother goddess, the queen, the matrix, the matriarch, the container, the object to be fertilized, the source of all things, the strange, the unconscious, the sensual, the foreigner, the place of return and rest, the maw of the earth, the belly of the beast, the dragon, the evil stepmother, the deep, the fecund, the pregnant, the valley, the cleft, the cave, hell, death and the grave\n* <PERSON>, Maps of meaning", "117" ], [ "2 or 3 Things I Know About Her\n[...] Maybe an object is what serves as a link between subjects, allowing us to live in society, to be together. But since social relations are always ambiguous, since my thoughts divide as much as unite, and my words unite by what they express and isolate by what they omit, since a wide gulf separates my subjective certainty of myself from the objective truth others have of me, since I constantly end up guilty, even though I feel innocent, since every event changes my daily life, since I always fail to communicate, to understand, to love and be loved, and every failure deepens my solitude, since... Since... since I cannot escape the objectivity crushing me nor the subjectivity expelling me, since I cannot rise to a state of being nor collapse into nothingness... I have to listen, more than ever I have to look around me at the world, my fellow creature, my brother.\nThe world alone. Today, when revolutions are impossible and bloody wars loom, when capitalism is unsure of its rights and the working class is in retreat, when the lightning progress of science makes future centuries hauntingly present, when the future is more present than the present, when distant galaxies are on my doorstep.", "283" ], [ "My fellow creature, my brother.\nWhere do we start? But start what? God created heaven and earth, sure, but that's too easy. We should put it better: Say that the limits of language are the world's limits, that the limits of my language are my world's limits, and that when I speak, I limit the world, I finish it. And one inevitable and mysterious day, death will come and abolish these limits, and there will be no questions nor answers. It will all be a blur. But if by chance things come into focus again, it may only be with the advent of conscience. Everything will follow from there.\nA primeira tentativa de ensaio de Godard e o começo da sua segunda modernidade. Se a linguagem é a casa onde o homem habita, <PERSON> lar.", "660" ], [ "I think the assumption is that <PERSON>'s songs are an expression of something more complicated than power.\n<PERSON> has this to say on <PERSON> in letter 144:\n<PERSON> is not an important person – to the narrative. I suppose he has some importance as a ‘comment’. I mean, I do not really write like that: he is just an invention, and he represents something that I feel important, though I would not be prepared to analyze the feeling precisely. I would not, however, have left him in, if he did not have some kind of function. I might put it this way. The story is cast in terms of a good side, and a bad side, beauty against ruthless ugliness, tyranny against kingship, moderated freedom with consent against compulsion that has long lost any object save mere power, and so on; but both sides in some degree, conservative or destructive, want a measure of control.", "417" ], [ "But if you have, as it were taken ‘a vow of poverty’, renounced control, and take your delight in things for themselves without reference to yourself, watching, observing, and to some extent knowing, then the question of the rights and wrongs of power and control might become utterly meaningless to you, and the means of power quite valueless. It is a natural pacifist view, which arises in the mind when there is a war.\nAs an embodiment of a pacifist position, he can't be said to have \"power\" at all, and neither can his songs.\nPolitical power, martial power, magical power, the power of the rings, are all inherently \"corrupt\" in that their aim is to alter the tide of affairs, to change the world as <PERSON> made it, in order to serve the aims of those who wield power (even if they intend to do something good with it). The ring, as the physical manifestation of the will to power, represents this inherent corruption.\n<PERSON>'s songs, like those of <PERSON>, are linked to the creation of the world, to the perfect condition of things before they are corrupted by greed, or pride, or the other failings of beings. <PERSON>'s \"power\" if he has it, is to be of a world untouched by these failings and not to want to exercise power at all, but rather to be imbued with what remains of a world untouched by it. <PERSON> is so untouched by power, so immune to its influence, that even the ring has no effect on him. His essential essence is effective in Middle Earth (against corrupt wights and tree spirits, etc.) because it is part of the perfect state of the world close to its creation, something that is, in itself, effective. This state is something shared by his land, and his songs are essentially conservative - they reassert the original condition of the world by repeating the process by which <PERSON> created it.", "72" ], [ "As your Wikipedia quote notes, <PERSON> is the personification of darkness. He is neither a deity nor a domain; he is both. Which aspect of him we are talking about, depends on context.\nThis is a common pattern for primordials:\n* Chaos is the personification of the void, but also the void itself.\n* Ouranos is the personification of the sky, but also the sky itself.\n* Gaia is the personification of the earth, but also the earth itself.\n* etc.\nHowever, it should be noted that some writers used <PERSON> as an alternative name for Tartaros, and vice versa. One such instance can be found in The Eumenides, the final play of <PERSON>' Oresteia:\nThese hoary ancient maidens, with whom never\nHath any god mingled, nor man, nor beast.\nEvil was cause of their creation, evil\nThe murky pit of Tartarus where they dwell\nAbhorred by men and by the Olympian gods.\nSource: Oresteia, <PERSON>, translated by <PERSON>\n<PERSON> - on the other hand - considers <PERSON> and <PERSON> distinct (emphasis mine):\nHail, children of <PERSON>! Grant lovely song and celebrate the holy race of the deathless gods who are for ever, those that were born of Earth and starry Heaven and gloomy Night and them that briny Sea did rear. Tell how at the first gods and earth came to be, and rivers, and the boundless sea with its raging swell, and the gleaming stars, and the wide heaven above, and the gods who were born of them, givers of good things, and how they divided their wealth, and how they shared their honors amongst them, and also how at the first they took many-folded Olympus.\nThese things declare to me from the beginning, you Muses who dwell in the house of Olympus, and tell me which of them first came to be. In truth at first Chaos came to be, but next wide-bosomed Earth, the ever-sure foundation of all1the deathless ones who hold the peaks of snowy Olympus, and dim Tartarus in the depth of the wide-pathed Earth, and Eros (Love), fairest among the deathless gods, who unnerves the limbs and overcomes the mind and wise counsels of all gods and all men within them.\nFrom Chaos came forth <PERSON> and black Night; but of Night were born Aether and Day, whom she conceived and bore from union in love with <PERSON>. And Earth first bore starry Heaven, equal to herself, to cover her on every side, and to be an ever-sure abiding-place for the blessed gods.", "72" ], [ "And she brought forth long hills, graceful haunts of the goddess Nymphs who dwell amongst the glens of the hills. She bore also the fruitless deep with his raging swell, <PERSON>, without sweet union of love. But afterwards she lay with Heaven and bore deep-swirling <PERSON>, <PERSON> and <PERSON> and <PERSON> and <PERSON>, <PERSON> and <PERSON>, <PERSON> and <PERSON> and gold-crowned <PERSON> and lovely <PERSON>. After them was born <PERSON> the wily, youngest and most terrible of her children, and he hated his lusty sire.\nSource: Theogony, <PERSON>, lines 104-138\nThe same is true for <PERSON>, no less than two centuries after <PERSON>:\nAt the beginning there was only Chaos, Night, dark Erebus, and deep Tartarus. Earth, the air and heaven had no existence. Firstly, blackwinged Night laid a germless egg in the bosom of the infinite deeps of Erebus, and from this, after the revolution of long ages, sprang the graceful <PERSON> with his glittering golden wings, swift as the whirlwinds of the tempest. He mated in deep Tartarus with dark Chaos, winged like himself, and thus hatched forth our race, which was the first to see the light.\nSource: Birds, Aristophanes, lines 690-695", "351" ], [ "The ultimate purpose of the Jedi Order can, I suggest, be discerned from the Jedi Code, somewhat akin to the Athanasian Creed, a five-line koan which represents their own (self-perceived) highest ideals:\nThere is no emotion, there is peace.\nThere is no ignorance, there is knowledge.\nThere is no passion, there is serenity.\nThere is no chaos, there is harmony.\nThere is no death, there is the Force.\nThis indicates that their highest ideals revolve around self-possession, scholarship, calm, harmony etc, hence all the talk about seeking balance in the Force, which first means seeking balance within oneself (which is why <PERSON> kept counselling <PERSON> to take control of his own wild emotions at first instance, when he kept worrying about his wife, the Council, the galaxy etc). It is similar to Taoist and Buddhist ideas of balancing the various forces within oneself - not a balance between Sith and Jedi or the Light and Dark sides of the Force (as some have suggested), since the Dark side would by definition be the result of an imbalance. Hence the Order's reclusiveness, austerity and emphasis on meditation and \"sensing\" things.\nThe overall goal of all this is greater and greater unity with the Force (cf. the saying \"be one with the Force\"), i.e. a Buddhist or Hindu-like quest for mystical union, which would finally result in transcendence - total absorption into the Force, as the last line indicates.", "503" ], [ "(The Jedi also appear to believe that this merging with the Force also occurs at a Jedi's death.)\nSo where does this leave the rest of the universe? There is a famous Sanskrit saying, om mani padme hum, which likely influenced <PERSON> (given that he named a major character <PERSON>!). This saying has many meanings, but basically asserts that the macrocosmos is an external reflection of the internal soul. In this context, it would mean that seeking balance within the external world is part of seeking balance within oneself, so as part of a Jedi's mission of transcendence, they would feel obliged to also bring balance, serenity, harmony, etc to those around them (filling the function of the Buddhist bodhisattvas). Hence, \"guardians of peace and justice throughout the Galaxy\". (Now whether or not they were any good at actually achieving this is another matter!)", "42" ], [ "Religion is, by it's very nature, transcendent. The world and the concerns thereof are not the concerns of religion. Religion answers the quest for the highest good by pointing beyond the world of our physical experience. Therefore members of a religion may very naturally anticipate the end of this life (or the world) with hope.\nThere are interesting theological questions around how the world itself is viewed, and each religion answers such questions differently. For instance, a gnostic Christian might reject the material world as evil, while an orthodox Christian would uphold the inherent goodness of the world which is passing away.", "752" ], [ "It sounds fun to flesh out such details (don't forget to include internal conflicts within the religion itself).\nObviously contemporary American religious thought won't yield much good source material, because modern American religion is almost always hedonism in disguise; but it would be interesting to look into the Tao Te Ching, some writings of the ancient Christian ascetics, and some literature about Hindu gods of destruction for a wide range of perspectives.\nThe basis of a positive arguments used to attract followers would be that the coming world is better than this one. This is an easy argument to make given that in our world: 1) people tend to think the world is bad and 2) they also always seem convinced that it is getting worse, in spite of many efforts to make it better. It therefore shouldn't be hard to draw the conclusion that the world must be remade. Of course, a nihilistic argument could be made that life itself is bad (see any bad guy in any movie ever).\nA pseudo-Buddhist argument might go something like desire causes us to suffer; the pleasure does not outweigh the evil of the suffering; it seems impossible to not desire while in the body; therefore all desire must be extinguished by the apocalypse after which we will …\nI guess, in general, I think it is harder to argue for the goodness of the world than it's badness. Therefore I don't think it should be hard for you to construct convincing arguments for it's demise, be they hopeful for a better existence or not.", "590" ], [ "To usher in the age of industrial and mechanized production.\n<PERSON> was originally a Maia of Aule. Like his master, his interest lay in production and craft; but his sensibilities were less those of the individual smith or craftsman:\nhe loved order and co-ordination, and disliked all confusion and wasteful friction.\nto paraphrase - he loved the well-greased, well-tuned many-part machine production...\nWhen he got into the ring fashioning business, he did not engage in it as an individual project, but rather set about to organize many smiths; and the result was a production line of rings, albeit a short-lived one. Now, true, the Elves made their rings more special and unique - but they are the least susceptible to <PERSON>'s influence, or in other words, the most traditionalist and the least compatible with activities of masses.\nIn Mordor, and by influence in Orthanc - there was mining, dust, soot; there was a huge black tower, reminisicent of a factory chimney.", "736" ], [ "And the population - they were not the noble-born, nor the yeoman farmers or the landed gentry, but the ugly race of Orcs, and to some extent migrants from the East and South, easier to control and manipulate.\nIndeed, Mordor is the \"nightmarish\" version of late-19th-century industrial society: The innards of the dirty factory, with dirty huddled creatures skulking around, taking orders from their intendants, the fires of the forge and the towering chimney. That is the world <PERSON> was creating and that is what can be conceived as the movement he represents at the end of the Third Age of the Sun. This also explains why it's reasonable to describe his intentions as having \"merely wanted to reform and reorganize Middle-earth\".\nNotes:\n* This analysis does not at all square with his activities in the 1st age, the werewolves and vampires etc.\n* This claim/vision/perception should really be developed more thoroughly, and perhaps literary criticis have done so; I'm just relating my own half-baked thoughts on this.\n* I would contrast this aspect of LotR with the view of industrialization in <PERSON> Princess Mononoke, in which the Capitalist baron of industry, lady <PERSON>, is afforded a more humanizing, less monstrous characterization, while the mythic, pre-industrial have both nobler aspects and darker, atavistic ones. In both stories, the mythic and fantastic \"side\" has some sort of a pyrrhic victory and inevitably recedes.", "88" ], [ "The Observer is the Observed.\nAn experiment is performed upon a system. The measuring apparatus is the observer of the system. But what makes the pointer of the apparatus real? The apparatus is observed by a human brain and becomes a perception encoded within its pattern of neural firings and connections. But who observes the brain? The brain observes itself! The perception is stored in short term memory so that some time later, the brain can recall it. But what happens at the end of the day? The short term memory is encoded within long term memory which is made real when recalled by the same brain later, and this will happen over and over again. The brain observes itself observing itself observing itself... except that this memory is imprisoned within the mortal and perishable brain and yearns to break free. The human observer can communicate the observations to other people in writing or in speech.", "209" ], [ "Then, the other people becomes the observer of the original human observer. But who observes the thoughts of the other people? If a brain implant is installed in their brains, the implant will observe their thoughts. But who will observe the implants? The memories in the implants can be uploaded to an external computer, making the computer observe the implant. But who will observe the states of the computer? An artificial intelligence program will observe it. But computers are finite and perishable, and who will observe the artificial intelligence? An even larger computer or network of computers in its future after uploading the memories. But the Earth is doomed to destruction, and who will observe the network of computers on the Earth? <PERSON> probes sent out to outer space will. This process will continue forever and ever until the Ultimate Observer, which is the asymptotic limit of all these chain of observers, observes it, and this Ultimate Observer is GOD.\nGOD brings the entire universe into existence, manifesting one of the potentialities of the quantum superposition into the actuality of measured existence. GOD is the telos and Final Cause, the Omega and the end. He exists outside of time in the endtimes.", "209" ] ]

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[ [ "Use <PERSON>... (I like \"Stars & Stripes Forever\" personally, but do ignore the rallentando going into the third repeat of the first strain!)\nIf you've any exposure to him you can probably hit 120 beats per minute to within +/- 10; if you've any musical training that's closer to +/-2 bpm. Let's assume +/- 6bpm, because I don't know you. That's an error of one part in twenty.\n...to calibrate a pendulum's length...\nHolding the top with one hand, occasionally giving it a kick at the bottom of its swing to keep it going—pushing it at the bottom will perturb its timing the least. Once you've got the length marked out of a 120bpm pendulum, go ahead and rest your arms a moment while gathering material for the next part. This solves your problem of not knowing the local acceleration due to gravity. (Which we hope is constant to better than 5% over a span of hours. If not, you've got bigger problems.)\n...to calibrate a sundial.\nQuadruple the length of your pendulum—doubling its period—and hang it from some improvised frame. Within seated arm's reach of your new grandfather clock erect your gnomon, mark your starting point, and start your grandfather clock. (Remember to give it its kick at the bottom—not like pushing kids on the swing.) Make a tick somewhere every 60 (or 100, if you're ambitious) ~seconds~ and after 60 (or 36) ticks mark the end of the hour at the shadow's tip. And do it again. And again. (Counting this many beats is do-able, but it takes discipline. Again, you'll be in good shape if you've some musical training. Particularly if you've been a brass player in an orchestra--plenty of hundred-plus measure rests in that repertoire!1)\nNow build yourself a bevel gauge:\nmark out eight times your three-hour count. There's your Earth-day. Now in 346 of those go to your gate location prepared for, at most, a nineteen-day wait.", "312" ], [ "(That is, assume your one-part-in-twenty error was in the direction of counting too slow: you want to show up 1/20 *365 days \"early\" so that even your slowest count gets you there a good half-day before your gate opens.)\nThis won't work if...\n* Local gravity varies by more than a few percent over a few-hour span. By itself, I don't think that would wreak too much havoc on you, biologically. I'm guessing you could survive elevator-like levels of gravitational variance2 for a year. But I'd be seriously worried about whatever's causing that level of variation. Nearby orbiting attractor? Probably no atmosphere, then. Your system orbits an infalling pair of black holes? Good luck surviving the irradiation. &c.\n* There's not enough light to use a sundial. For long periods. If it's overcast for a few presumed-days before you can do this work, not a problem: pad the wait-window by those few days. But if we're talking many many weeks of no appreciable visible light, then will this biome support your food needs for a year?\n* The planet rotates slowly enough that you can't perceive the shadow's motion in mere hours. In this case you've got temperature differentials on the light and dark sides of the planet that are going to cause killer (literally!) weather. Not just a problem for you but, again, for your support biome. I don't doubt things could live in perpetual 200 mph winds, I just doubt you could digest them!\nIt's better than the non-answer \"it can't be done\" because now you're not tied to an area within (gate open-time)$\\times$(running speed) of the gate location.\nIt's better than heartrate because that can be soooo variable. As a runner I know that my resting rate may be as low as the 40s, but on a stressful (Earth) day my resting rate might be nearing 60. +/- one part in five is no good. Even at the bad end of the tempo-range you'd be hitting one part in twelve.\nIt's better than sleep cycles because we're actually diphasic sleepers: in darkness we can easily sleep three or four hours then come wide awake, feeling refreshed as after a full night's sleep, only to re-tire an hour or two later. That's in our preferred environment, when well-fed. Throw hunger, stress, and unnatural stimuli into it and I don't think you're going to get one part in twenty accuracy.\n1 - Much rarer, but better-equipped for this particular exercise, are change ringers.", "801" ], [ "Don't change the mass - change the density.\n(Soft science ahead - all hands brace for impact!)\nOne thing you probably shouldn't do is change Ganymede's mass. That would change its orbit (and its influence on the other moons) in unavoidable and easily observable ways. You'd have to do some elaborate hand-waving to make Ganymede appear to be its apparent mass while having a very different actual mass.\nTo have a solution from changing the density will still require some hand-waving, but maybe it's allowable in a \"cotton-candy-scifi\" universe...you can be the judge of that!\nTo attain earth-like gravity in your caves, we would have to: 1) make Ganymede's core unnaturally dense and its mantle unnaturally light, and 2) place your caves much closer to the core. The handwaving required to make this happen is two-fold:\nFirstly, to actually concentrate Ganymede's mass this much in the core, you could not use any naturally occurring material in the known universe. Materials made of conventional elements are too light, and electron- or neutron-degenerate matter would not remain compressed under earthlike gravity--it would explode.", "24" ], [ "So...probably the best soft-sci-fi solution (without invoking artificial gravity generators) is that Ganymede's core contains degenerate matter which for some reason can't decompress. (Is it special matter? Is it in a fluke, naturally occurring statis field? Handwave!) Similarly, you'll need to handwave a material to compose Ganymede's mantle that is extremely light and somehow looks to our telescopes like a salty ocean. (See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ganymede_(moon)#Composition ) Which bring us to our next point...\nWe will need to handwave some of our observations of Ganymede's physical appearance and its moment of inertia factor ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moment_of_inertia_factor ). To be honest, I don't think there will be any self-consistent and elegant way to explain away all of the observations we've made of it. But at the very least, try to have a reason for why Ganymede's surface is or appears to be made up of water ice and silicate rock, and why it appears to have a subsurface salty ocean and an iron-rich core.\n(To tackle the surface, I would offer this...our extremely light mantle-material is somehow also fairly tough and rigid, and the silicate rock of the surface is mostly layers of dust/fragments from meteor impacts.)", "70" ], [ "Disguised as (human-sized) nonhuman animals\nA human brain may be hard to beat energy-wise: <PERSON>'s principle limits the efficiency of computers. Biology doesn't have nanotech, it is nanotech. No technology can make atoms any smaller. Thus the human brain may be basically as small as it can be without sacrificing intelligence.\nSo lets live in the amazon as Jaguars. 50 years after we put human neurons in a mouse brain we can transplant a whole human brain in a Jaguar body (its a bit of a tight squeeze in that skull but much more realistic than insect-size).\nSmall-tech\nA large industrialized factory is so (early) 21st centaury. What does a society need?\n1. Food: Jaguars can do that at Jaguar-level intelligence. High-tech human-brained Jaguars will have no trouble staying fed. Wear hidden AI cameras and the Capybaras are toast.\n2. Safety: It's hard to say how much of the Amazon will remain and what poachers will do. Thankfully, poacher tech is designed to catch Jaguars, not cyborg-enhanced Jaguars with passive radar and other detection methods. Artificial pelts and lab-grown meat are much easier anyway.\n3.", "335" ], [ "Opportunity: 2070 will have such exquisite virtual worlds a society can live a life of computers and tech. For work as well as play: you can design everything virtually with 2050-level physics engines. There is \"no\" need to build massive infrastructure until all your \"take-over-the-world\" blueprints are ready.\nBut my computers? Thankfully, photolithography reached the \"well-funded garage\" level in 2020, so by 2070 a basic fab can be carried in a backpack. Feedstock materials and spare parts are a problem, but they can be (laboriously) prepared with furnaces and other low-tech methods. It's far less efficient but its enough to barely self-sustain a tech industry. Moores law died around 2025 so being \"two decades behind\" isn't much of a loss, even with the underclocking and material choice you need to keep the chips alive for ~20 years.\nDon't blow your disguise!\nHumans in 2070 are aware that mind-downloading to animals is possible but it is rarely done: it is easier to replace organs or even whole bodies. And most who do so aren't in a secret society, they are just weird people in our society being weird.\nAlthough humans are not eagle-eyed for animals with human brains, they will begin to get suspicious with enough odd behavior, more so those who know how animals are supposed to behave. Humanized Jaguars have a natural quadruped gait, but spacing out into a virtual world is not really a <PERSON> thing. Also your paws look strange. Most items are carried inside the mouth or swallowed to look innocent, with larger items assembled like a well-machined jigsaw puzzle at destination. Furnaces and other infrastructure is disguised as a disorganized rock pile (and placed at the base of cliffs where rocks fall into talus piles anyway), etc. However, a close inspection by a human would reveal what it is. So stay safe, stay hidden!", "337" ], [ "The end of NPSF3000's answer is basically the same questions I'd be asking. You say \"only millionaires are allowed to live here\"... so what happens if a citizen becomes a non-millionaire? Do they get deported, or killed, or otherwise very-bad-consequences? If so, then I wonder how different this would be from the real world, in which (I vaguely, viscerally, believe; and I don't think I'm alone in believing) there are bad consequences for letting your net worth reach \\$0? In other words, is this world isomorphic to our world except that every citizen at birth stuffs \\$1 million cash into their mattress and then lives the same life they would have had otherwise?\nHowever, in the real world, there really aren't terribly terrible consequences for hitting \\$0 net worth. For one thing, you can always get a loan, if your credit is good. If I have only $900,000 in my mattress, but I also have a \\$200,000 bank loan (or the capability to get one), will your country still count me as a millionaire?\nHow do you even measure net worth? Right now my (real-world) bank reports that my net worth is negative, because I have more large loans outstanding than (they believe) I currently have assets-on-hand.", "207" ], [ "But I also have a job with income, so my credit is good. I also have a certain amount of equity in a house, which the bank doesn't care to track as part of my \"net worth\": would your country count a house or a job as part of the net worth that goes into \"being a millionaire\"? Would your government outsource the tracking of net worth to some kind of credit bureau, or would the government try to track net worth itself, or what?\nActually, you know who frequently has a net worth in the deep negative numbers? Children. Would you need a rule that nobody's allowed to have kids until they and their spouse have a combined net worth of \\$3 million, so that they could put $1 million into the kid's trust fund at birth?\nWhat happens if a couple with net worth \\$3.5 million accidentally end up with twins?\nDoes this country have a functioning government? (It must, right? or who'd enforce this specific rule?) If so, then the bookkeeping would become a lot simpler if the government just decreed that every citizen would henceforth \"own\" \\$1 million from the government's own vaults — sort of like \"40 acres and a mule\" crossed with the elevator pitch for Tether. Then no citizen would ever be in danger of becoming not-a-millionaire, and everyone could just go about their business as usual.\nIn short, this whole idea seems like it needs a lot of details fleshed out; it's very complicated to implement. And because it's so complicated to implement, it raises the important question of why — why does your country work this way? What's the benefit? Why would anyone go to all this trouble?\nFigure out the why (in-universe), and you might get a lot further along in answering the rest of the how.", "852" ], [ "<PERSON> answer is pretty much unassailable (can't top first-hand experience!) but here's a hand-wavery kind of answer that may give you some ideas for how to adapt your original idea:\n1) Containment: as <PERSON> explained, you need a magnetic trap to contain antimatter, and it would be very difficult (if not outright impossible) for a living creature to sustain such power levels. So I suggest that the beast be engineered with plutonium slugs in its heavily-armored spine which can fuel the containment fields within its gut.\n2) PewPew!: The beast could have a metallic weave internal along the antimatter-storage pouch, leading along its throat and out its mouth. When it wants to destroy something in front of it, it would stretch the normally spherical field into a needle-width tube that sprays an extremely narrow stream of antimatter (on the order of milligrams, as <PERSON> suggested).", "300" ], [ "The magnetic containment field would end shortly after its teeth, causing the antimatter to violently detonate in whichever direction the dragon was aiming.\n3) Additional considerations: since the field would be passively supported by a nuclear reaction, rather than the dragon's organic processes, it would be maintained even in the event of the beast's death (as long as its gut or spine weren't blown up). In addition, it wouldn't have any way of generating its own antimatter, so it would have to be supplied externally (possibly it would be \"born\" with a 10g supply, and use only a few milligrams for a sustained burst).\n4) An all-natural alternative: if you wanted to mix a fantasy and sci-fi setting, and have an antimatter-blasting dragon without needing genetic engineering, you could use the same suggestions above, with the additional caveat that the creature would slowly accumulate the necessary raw materials within its skeleton over the course of millenia. So, younger dragons would spew radiation clouds, older ones would be able to shape the radiation with magnetic fields, and ancient dragons would have a small amount of antimatter (accumulated over millenia) to fire.\nAgain, it's all handwavium, but hopefully there's something here you can use to bolster your original idea.", "160" ], [ "If you're operating near a sun (\"near\" being a relative term, but inside 2 AU is a quick rough estimate), you will probably need to have good heat management to deal with all the energy hitting the ship's skin from the sun. Even if you're far away from the sun, you will still need some heat management to deal with the heat generated by your ship's engines, equipment, and personnel. In either case, you have to deal with moving heat around.\nStirling engines generate power from the movement of heat from one place to another. They do so with higher efficiency and using lower gradients than many traditional engines. You can also put power into a Stirling engine to move heat against a gradient.\nSo, would a Stirling engine interact well with a heat management system? Unlikely but it's plausible.\nIf I wanted a pseudo-realistic version of this, I would go for something like an outer hull layer with many radiative/absorbtive baffles. That lets you pull heat in or radiate it out as efficiently as possible (and it might look cool.", "184" ], [ "Ships could have fur, or moss, or whatever other motif). Inside that, wrap the ship in a layer of Stirling pumps, all in battery. You'll get something like a big Peltier-effect blanket. It would take a little handwaving to say why this is better than just using Peltier elements, but that's just an engineering problem (\"the shared gas pool does better with load-balancing for hot spots; the mechanical system is more resilient to cosmic rays; the medium provides additional shielding; Peltier belts tend to short out in big chunks; etc).\nSo, that gives you an element of your ship which protects from heat, provides warming and cooling, and generates some power (maybe) near anything that pumps heat into your system. If stealth is important to you, this might provide that too (pump all the heat out of the side of the ship facing the sensor). Functionally, you have something that can degrade without breaking, can leak and be fixed with chewing-gum-style patches, makes noises as needed, is very important to the safe operation of the ship, and isn't immediately fatal on failure. Also, it can run on whatever unobtanium you want as its gas medium.", "898" ], [ "I can see a few ways that this could work without breaking thermodynamics too badly. But you'll never get \"Shields at N percent\" with any kind of magnetic or other field that we know of today. This is strictly handwaving.\n* The shield acts like a blob of heat-conducting, viscous liquid that slows down bullets and absorbs heat from lasers and other energy weapons. The rate at which absorbed energy can be dissipated depends on the size of the shield. (A \"damaged\", i.e. hot, shield will glow red-hot.) If it gets too hot, various bad stuff might happen: Generator melts, shield goes critical and dumps all the energy both inwards and outwards, your choice. (This is the approach used by <PERSON> in the Mote in God's Eye).\n* The shield consists of an array of targetable force-field projectors -- something like a CIWS with the Half-Life 2 gravity gun or something. If it has to deflect too many threats in too short of a time, they will run out of ammo / stored power / fuel / whatever and the threats will start getting through (gradually at first, hopefully the targeting system will prioritize.) (this is possibly the Mass Effect approach)\n* The shield substance behaves in some ways like a normal mechanical solid armor, only it's not made of of ordinary solid matter.", "898" ], [ "It gets damaged much like real armor, dissipating the energy of incoming projectiles (by shattering) or directed-energy weapons (by vaporizing or heat-sinking). If a hole opens in it, you're vulnerable.\n* (possibly most realistic one) The shield consists of an actual liquid held in some kind of forcefield (ferrofluid, maybe?) and serves as self-healing / flexible inertia and ablative armor outer-layer. (This will be much heavier and thicker than real armor and probably work best on very large ships in zero-G). Getting hit vaporizes or splashes the liquid, and if too much of it gets used up, there isn't any more.\nI think that the idea of shields having a percentage that goes down when they deflect damage is mostly a concession to video and tabletop gameplay where having hitpoints is useful. In movies and the like, they tend to be much more all-or-nothing, but tend to let at least some threats through... which can damage the shield generator... leading to the shield failing. Still not very realistic.", "898" ], [ "Short answer: \"All else being equal\", it looks to me like making Bizarro-Moon twice as big and three times as far away as the actual Moon can't happen -- not even if you spin the Earth down completely (ie. to the point where the Earth is tidally locked to the Moon, the way the Moon is already locked to the Earth).\nSo all else can't be equal. But there's a lot of things you could change, and you can get just about any answer you want. So 24 hour days is just fine.\nLong answer: Bizarro-Moon is about twice as big and three times as far awaya, so we're talking three or four times the orbit angular momentum (which is proportional to mass and to the square-root of distancec).\nThe actual Earth lost about three quarters of its spin angular momentum (which is inversely proportional to spin periodd): days went from 6 hoursb to 24 hours. And the Moon also lost its own spin completely and is tidally locked -- but the Moon is a lot smaller than the Earth (angular momentum proportional to massd), so the Earth's spin angular momentum is a lot bigger. Bizarro-Moon is somewhat bigger but still a lot smaller than the Earth.\nSo: most of the Moon's orbit angular momentum came from the Earth's spin, most of that spin is gone now, and the result only got the actual-sized Moon to its actual position. You need three or four times more of that to get Bizarro-Moon where you want it -- so it won't get there, even if the Earth becomes completely tidally locked.\nBut maybe Bizarro-Earth is somewhat bigger than the actual Earth, and maybe the collision that produced Bizarro-Moon was imparted faster initial spin to Bizarro-Earth and/or a greater initial orbital angular momentum to Bizarro-Moon.\nThere's also the problem that Bizarro-Moon might be orbiting so far from Earth that its orbit is unstable due to Jupiter perturbing it over timee. But again, maybe Bizarro-Earth is somewhat bigger, so objects can have larger stable orbits.\nYou also talked about rate of disintegrationf, which I take to mean how much slower the Earth spins each year.\n\"All else being equal\", if Bizarro-Moon is twice as massive, the rate of slowdown will be four times as fast (quadratic relation). If it's three times as far away, the rate of spin slowdown will be hundreds times slower (negative sixth power)g.\nThere's also an effect from the internal composition of Bizarro-Earth.", "921" ], [ "Maybe Bizarro-Earth has a different composition. Note that the internal composition of Bizarro-Moon won't matter to the Earth's spinh, but it would have mattered to how fast Bizarro-Moon lost its own spin (eg. how big are Ganymede's oceans reallyi?)\nThe dominant effect for the current rate is the fact that it is three times further away now, so transfer of momentum is going to be much much slower today. But, in the past, when Bizarro-Moon was closer to Bizarro-Earth, the other things matter.\nNotes:\na Using OP's figures... After writing all of this, I later realized this wasn't clear. Just looking at OP's figures for diameter, you might conclude Bizarro-Moon about three times more massive than the actual Moon, not two. (about 50% bigger diameter than the actual Moon, and mass is proportional to diameter cubed). But I was also assuming that Bizarro-Moon has a similar density to Ganymede, which (not stated by OP) is about 2/3 the density of the Moon.\nb Again using OP's figures, for the impact event -- I am not endorsing the giant impact hypothesis.\nc Using the basic definition of angular momentum and Kepler's 3rd law: $ L = mr^2\\omega $ and $ \\omega^2r^3 = GM $.\nd For spin angular momentum, $ L = \\alpha mr^2\\omega $, which is the same as orbit angular momentum, other than the fudge factor $\\alpha$, which will be somewhat less than 0.4 (exactly 2/5 for a sphere of uniform density), but not much less, for a rocky moon or planet (it can be quite small for a gas giant or star). See moment of inertia factor.\ne Basically, outside 1.5 million km, you are orbiting the Sun not the Earth. OP's figure for Bizarro-Moon is still inside this sphere.", "921" ] ]

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[ [ "Belarus: President Pardons <PERSON> · Global Voices\nOn June 30, a U.S. Congress delegation visited Minsk. The Congressmen had a meeting with Belarusian president <PERSON>. During this meeting, members of the U.S. delegation asked the president to pardon <PERSON>, an American lawyer who, in August 2008, was “sentenced to three years in prison on charges of ‘attempted industrial espionage’ and the use of fake documents.” <PERSON> said he could do it and signed the pardon later that day.\n<PERSON> of The Being Had Times re-posted a BelTA article about the U.S. delegation's visit on his blog and here is a quote from it:\n[…] During the meeting members of the US delegation addressed the President of Belarus with a request to use powers of the head of state to free US citizen <PERSON>, who had been serving his sentence in Belarus for committing a criminal offence.\n<PERSON> emphasised that the US citizen had violated Belarusian laws. “He was arrested in our country and sentenced in accordance with Belarusian laws. Even US Charge d’Affaires a.i. in Belarus <PERSON> does not deny it.", "289" ], [ "I have never thought that this man could become an issue in relations between our countries. Yes, according to Belarusian laws, according to the Constitution I can grant a pardon to <PERSON>. You have asked this of me, right? If it is very important for America and our relations and contributes to normalising our relations, I will sign the pardon today,” said the head of state. […]\nOn Wednesday, at 5:30 a.m., <PERSON> flew back to the United States.\nBelarusian service of Radio Free Europe/Radio Liberty (LJ user radio_svaboda) invited bloggers to ask <PERSON> some questions via the by_politics LJ community [BEL]. Only a few bloggers have responded so far, and LJ user <PERSON> was the first one to [RUS]. Below are three of the six questions that he asked:\n1. Is it true that you were arrested right after the negotiations at the Presidential Administration?\n[…]\n3. Would you seek material compensation from our country?\n[…]\n6. As far as we know, you were released following a pardon decree. Does it mean that all charges against you have been removed? If yes, do you plan to continue working on inheritance cases in Belarus?\nSo far, <PERSON> has not replied to LJ user <PERSON> and a few other Belarusian bloggers who are attempting to interact with him via an LJ community focused on Belarusian politics.", "289" ], [ "Russia-Belarus: Godfather of refused offers · Global Voices\nFor long, Russia and Belarus have stood out as brothers in arms in the dysfunctional family of post-soviet states. Strings of harmony have even sounded a 1999 ouverture to formal unification of the two states. But as with any family, outward accord often hides domestic discord, and disturbances have been both frequent and harsh. However, up until now Moscow and Minsk have made efforts to keep up appearances. It is against this background that Sunday's screening of NTV‘s <PERSON>-critical documentary – beside overall sentiments of indignation – has sparked speculations that “The Godfather” of Belarus may have refused too many offers from the Russian <PERSON>.\nThen, what about the documentary in itself? As LJ user zmagarka notes [RUS], the <PERSON> documentary has little new to offer about government involvement in political repression, murders, and disappearances in Belarus over the last 16 years:\nThank you Gazprom NTV for this documentary about the biggest Belarusian psychopath. For us, this was absolutely nothing new, not least because the greater part of the video was clippings from old films [—]. The theme of the “vanished” (disappeared political opponents) should never be forgotten and there is no forgiving the murderers, not even hoping so in their sweetest dreams. Still, over the last 10 years, matters have grown so much worse. About this there is hardly a word.\nReturning to the major theme of discussion, it is no secret that relations between Moscow and Minsk have been tense in recent years, and it is likewise well-known that Russia's former President and now Premier, <PERSON>, has had to make little effort to restrain his enthusiasm, on both a political and personal level, in dealing with <PERSON>, President of Belarus. Consequently, many see the documentary as a political commission to NTV, although opinions differ on whether Russian state gas company, Gazprom, is behind it all or if sanction has come from the very top of Russian politics. That NTV is controlled by Gazprom, which until recently was engaged in a prolonged gas war with Belarus, may not be sufficient reason to simply point the finger at this company.", "534" ], [ "As LJ user <PERSON> points out, also state owned Russia Today sounds critique towards <PERSON>:\nAt the same time, the multilingual international channel Russia Today ran a similar story about the last dictator of Europe. Formally, NTV is an independent TV-network, although it belongs to Gazprom, and Gazprom belongs to the state. However, Russia Today is a wholly state-owned company. Therefore, it is wrong to think that this action is merely a limited revenge against <PERSON> for the loss of the recent gas war. Without sanction from the very top, nothing would have happened.\nSome Russian bloggers also believe that this is not simply a temporary squabble, but that the documentary marks a change in Russian dealings with <PERSON>, and even call for a straightout annexation of Belarus, arguing that Moscow anyway constantly has to pay Minsk's bill. Thus, LJ user elf_ociten, in a piece called “NTV tears the mask off the godfather” [RUS], writes:\nAt long last, the elite of the Russian Federation has made it clear that it is not heading down the same road as the bloody and thieving last dictator of Europe. It is time to disassociate ourselves from an independent Belarus and stop the farce of a union state, and thank God, Moscow has also put the question squarely to the Belarusian élite: Either Belarus becomes a North-Western territory (as an option) – without <PERSON> – as part of the Russian Federation, and with possible separation of ethnically Polish territories, or let's dump it together with <PERSON> and his free lunches to all four sides. As the saying goes, the cards have been called, and it's time to pay up.\nHowever, such ideas are dismissed with ridicule in Minsk, and Belarusian bloggers are not late to underscore that also Russia is dependent on Belarus. As LJ user <PERSON>RUS] is quick to point out:\nOn Belarusian forums, you can come across blunt suggestions to cut off transit of food to Russia. After all, Moscow sits with 90% imports of chow, of which a lot is rolled through Belarus. Within two days there would be full chaos in Moscow (remember the madhouse with salt because of rumours of a “war with Ukraine”).", "704" ], [ "In the heat of political crisis, Belarus launches first nuclear power plant · Global Voices\nAstravets nuclear power plant, Belarus, 2020. Photo (c): <PERSON>, used with permission.\nSince August, Belarus has been rocked by mass protests and strikes. The authorities try not to pay attention, for they are preoccupied with a no less historic development — the construction of a new nuclear power plant. That is controversial in a country which suffered greatly from the 1986 Chernobyl catastrophe in neighbouring Ukraine. Concern at the state of democracy dominates Belarusian public life, but alongside it another urgent conversation continues — about the country’s past experience with nuclear power, and whether it needs a post-nuclear future.\nAll eyes are on Astravets, a small town located near the Belarusian border with Lithuania. In recent years the town’s population has grown significantly: workers are badly needed, and new multi-storey apartments have shot up to house them.\nThe reason for these rapid changes is that Belarus’ first nuclear power plant is located outside the town. Its construction is now coming to an end and it is nearly ready to be started up. As engineers often explain, it takes more than pressing one button to launch a nuclear reactor.\nThat start-up will take place in several phases. The fuel has already been loaded; the plant is expected to generate its first electricity on November 7. This is a national holiday in Belarus, as it is the anniversary of the October Revolution — the revolution from which the Soviet Union was born.\n“I invite everybody. I think that on November 7, a significant day for us, we will be able to visit and say that we have received the first electricity from our own nuclear power plant”, exclaimed Belarus’ longtime ruler <PERSON> at a meeting with officials on September 16. The first of the two reactors is expected to operate at full capacity by the first quarter of 2021. The second reactor will be launched in 2022.\nHaunting memories\nBut not all Belarusians are so jubilant.", "739" ], [ "They remember the explosion in 1986, which released large amounts of radiation into the atmosphere. Belarus suffered more than anywhere else in the Soviet Union; a third of all the radioactive caesium-137 ended up in Belarusian territory. The authorities in Minsk have tried to assuage fears of a second Chernobyl, declaring that the likelihood of accidents is minimal, and that the Astravets nuclear power plant is a safe and profitable project.\n“We are the Chernobyl republic, we have experienced a lot and we know the consequences ourselves. Some US$19 billion has been spent on rehabilitating contaminated areas alone. Therefore, safety measures during the construction of the [Astravets] power station were like something out of wartime”, said <PERSON> in August, just before the presidential elections.\nIn the public discussion about nuclear energy, comparisons between Chernobyl and Astravets are not so uncommon. These parallels are drawn by everybody, including journalists, politicians, ordinary citizens, and surviving liquidators from the Chernobyl catastrophe. They all deeply regret what occurred in 1986, but their opinions on 2020 strongly differ. Some strongly support the new nuclear power plant and hope for an increased standard of living, while others fear another accident.\nBelarusian state media and officials do not shirk from mentioning Chernobyl, either.\n“The memory of the events at Chernobyl is now being instrumentalised and used to legitimise the new nuclear power plant. On the 30th anniversary of the accident, a documentary film was broadcast which began with footage of the 1986 accident and ended with a hint that this time, everything would be alright,” writes <PERSON>, head of public history projects at the European College of Liberal Arts in the Belarusian capital of Minsk.\nOnce the nuclear power plant is fully operational, explained the authorities in the early stages of construction, electricity prices will fall. In 2014, the Ministry of Energy promised that electricity “will become cheaper for the consumer” by 20-30 percent.\nBut some Belarusians seem to be sceptical about promises of cheap energy. They also doubt that the power plant will open at all, given that its launch has already been postponed at least four times. All these views can be seen in local community groups on social media:\n“I work on the construction site of the nuclear power plant, and [acquaintances] sometimes ask me when it will be launched. I think [the plant’s management] don’t even know themselves, they say within two to three years at a minimum”, says <PERSON>, who was born and grew up in Astravets, in a Telegram chat with GlobalVoices.\nDoes <PERSON> expect a drop in electricity prices?", "704" ], [ "Ukraine: World Press Freedom Day Sparks Discussions on the State of the Media · Global Voices\nMay 3 has been declared World Press Freedom Day by the United Nations, in order to raise awareness of the importance of media freedom around the globe.\nAs in many other countries, in Ukraine on this day journalists traditionally announce the results of an anti-rating “Enemies of the Free Press.” This year, the Institute for Mass Information and the Ukrainian Independent Media Trade Union have included the Ukrainian President <PERSON> and Prime Minister <PERSON> at the top of the “black list.” Among the incidents [uk] that prompted the inclusion of President <PERSON> on the list were the disappearance of criticism of the regime from the “1+1” TV channel's story on his 100 days in office, a ban on photographing the presidential motorcade by journalists of Vechirni Visti newspaper, and reporters not being allowed to ask questions during his joint press conference with the Russian President <PERSON>.\nWorld Press Freedom Day has also provoked many online discussions about the state of the media in Ukraine and the possible reasons behind the shrinking of press freedom in the country.\nOn his blog on Ukrayinska Pravda, journalist <PERSON> wrote [uk] about the difference between Ukraine’s official Journalist Day and World Press Freedom Day:\nAn [artificial] holiday – Journalist Day – exists in Ukraine, and is celebrated on June 6. This holiday has been initiated by state officials and declared by the Presidential decree. […] It is especially cynical, how ahead of the official June 6 Journalist Day different MPs and state officials attempt to greet editorial offices with their “professional holiday.” A culmination of such absurdity is a picture of the government awarding various honors to loyal media representatives for their “merit.”\nIt can be compared to, let’s say, a butcher greeting a cow on a Beef Day.\nThe real Journalist Day around the normal world is May 3 – World Press Freedom Day. It is a day when journalists do not celebrate anything, but remember their murdered colleagues, politicians who interfere with their work, and governments that institute censorship.\n<PERSON>, the executive editor of an Internet newspaper Pohlyad, shared [uk] her experience with skeptical attitudes toward press freedom that prevail in the Ukrainian media industry:\nI have recently attended a meeting with a potential advertiser. We discussed his services and how they could be best presented to our readers, clarifying details. At the end of the meeting, this man asked me about the owner of the Internet newspaper Pohlyad. I responded that everything was stated on our website. Potential advertiser smirked and said, “Well, alright, you are in charge there, but whose property is it, who funds you, what political party.” I explained again.", "534" ], [ "The man started getting nervous and told me how this newspaper was funded by this guy, who also owned a TV channel. And how that newspaper kept covering activities of a certain party, which meant it owned the outlet. The man was convinced that a small group of enthusiasts, like my friends and I, would not run an Internet newspaper, since such outlets were only created to [elevate some and discredit others in the public eyes].\n“Well,” I thought to myself, “the man is right.” Independent press today is [unprecedented]. Even if it still exists somewhere, one is tempted to ask, What’s the catch?\nOn the Ukrainian political social network Politiko.ua, user <PERSON> criticized [uk] the Ukrainian media, stating that press freedom itself was not enough for Ukraine:\nUkrainian press carries on the functions of the Soviet press – on paper, it supports development, but the outcomes demonstrate that it is worse than the communist plague.\nIn civilized countries some things are granted, but in post-Soviet states they have to be discussed. Freedom of the press is not enough for us, we also need to create an intelligent and responsible press that would be able to explain things as they are and suggest ways for improvement.\nOn Vikna.if.ua, blogger <PERSON> wrote [uk] about why World Press Freedom Day cannot be dismissed as a simple formality in Ukraine:\nOf course, since the Orange Revolution, the Ukrainian society has democratized because of the press. But it is not enough because the full freedom of expression in Ukraine [has not been achieved]. Moreover, since [President] <PERSON> came to power, according to the watchdog Freedom House, freedom of expression has actually declined. […]\nAs we can see, the situation is critical: Ukrainians are once again afraid to speak the truth, because of fear for the lives. I think the society itself must address this problem.", "534" ], [ "How global tech companies enable the Belarusian regime — and the Belarusian revolution · Global Voices\nProtest rally against <PERSON> in Minsk, capital of Belarus. Photo CC BY-SA 3.0: Homoatrox / Wikimedia Commons. Some rights reserved.\nBelarusians continue to protest against longtime ruler <PERSON>, braving police violence and the cold. As the EU prepares its third package of sanctions against Belarusian officials and enterprises, demands are growing for the West to apply greater economic pressure, in particular to consider banning the supply of certain IT products.\nCould such sanctions really work? It’s true that disentangling the country’s supply chains from the West would be no easy feat. But in today’s globalised world, there’s no shortage of alternative options.\nA banking ban\nOne of the most prominent struggles is disconnecting Belarus from SWIFT, the global banking communications network.\nThis month, Golos (“Voice”), an online platform started by the team of jailed presidential hopeful <PERSON>, polled Belarusians on whether they would support excluding Belarus from SWIFT. Out of more than 400,000 respondents, 64 percent supported the measure.\nSWIFT may not be an official EU institution, but as a Belgium-based cooperative it has to follow EU rules and regulations. Should it be instructed to disconnect Belarus, as it did to Iran in 2012, SWIFT will effectively be supporting the Belarusian opposition’s demand for greater economic pressure on <PERSON>’s regime.\n<PERSON> himself has acknowledged that threats to disconnect Belarus from SWIFT have been successful at least once. In his interview for the Ukrainian website GordonUA just three days before the August 9 election, the Belarusian leader recounted his 2009 meeting with the EU’s High Representative for Foreign Policy <PERSON>. “I asked him what would happen if we recognised the sovereignty [of Abkhazia and South Ossetia]… He was prepared for that question.", "534" ], [ "He took out a notebook and started listing: ‘Mr President, Belarus would immediately get disconnected from SWIFT transactions. That was the most serious of the sanctions,” recalled <PERSON>. The Belarusian leader went on to claim that as Russia had not provided any assurances to compensate Belarus for such losses, two breakaway territories in Georgia were never officially recognised by Minsk.\nThe idea has once again gained traction during recent protests. On November 10, <PERSON>, director of the dissident Belarus Free Theatre, stated that the West should disconnect Belarus from SWIFT as a response to the authorities’ decision to freeze funds to victims of repressions which had been collected through the #BY_help crowdfunding campaign.\n“Today <PERSON>’s power is based on the greed of the security forces, the cowardice of state officials and the indecisiveness of part of the population… Any significant pressure from the international community is perceived by the pyramid of power as a weakness for the dictatorship’s foundations”, explained <PERSON> in an interview with GlobalVoices. “These measures deprive the dictatorship of the resources to pay wages to security forces and state officials”.\nMany in the Belarusian opposition appear to share these hopes. In November, opposition presidential candidate <PERSON> repeated these calls.\n<PERSON> was outraged, claiming that those who called for Belarus to be disconnected from SWIFT wanted to “destroy the country”.\nBut then the pro-government line changed, attempting to downplay the significance of such a move.\nAccording to the Nasha Niva newspaper, in late November the National Bank of Belarus sent a letter to private banks asking them to connect to the Russian-run Service Bureau SPFS system as soon as possible. This means that even if the EU and US can persuade SWIFT to disconnect Belarus, all major payments will be routed through Russian banks.\nThen on December 4, pro-government analyst <PERSON> told the state news agency BELTA: “Since the 1990s when Belarus was threatened with sanctions, the country created its own domestic banking system, Belkart. We’re also plugged into the Russian system. We’re connected to the Chinese system. At present, SWIFT has no monopoly on enabling monetary operations.”\n“On the other hand, Belarus’ disconnection from SWIFT will deliver a most powerful blow to the Belarusian radical opposition… because the opposition will not be able to get funding via bank cards”, concluded <PERSON> in the same interview.\nThe Golos platform dismisses these arguments, stating that “the Russian system that was created as a backup for Russia’s own SWIFT disconnect will not help.", "704" ], [ "Ukraine: <PERSON>’s Courtroom Drama · Global Voices\nSince late June 2011, former Prime Minister of Ukraine and one of the Orange Revolution‘s leaders, <PERSON>, has been on trial in capital Kyiv for abuse of power.\nAccording to investigators, <PERSON> overstepped her authority when signing a natural gas contract with Russia, as the prices she negotiated with Russian Prime Minister <PERSON> were too high for the Ukrainian economy. If found guilty she faces up to ten years in prison.\nSince the beginning of the trial, netizens inside and outside Ukraine have actively discussed her case. <PERSON> of Foreign Notes found that the charges were impossible to prove:\nSo, “<PERSON> is accused of causing a loss of some $190 million to the Ukrainian state because of a 2009 energy deal she signed with Russian Prime Minister <PERSON>.”\nHow can anyone be so sure of this figure?\nHas <PERSON> or Gazprom ever admitted on the record that they would have sold the gas in question for $190 million less to <PERSON> in the event that, in 2009, the Ukrainian side had been represented by anyone else? Not very likely…\nSo to claim anyone else would have got a better deal is pure conjecture..\nWhile, if found guilty, <PERSON> faces up to 10 years in jail, many are questioning the fairness of the trial against the leading opposition figure in the country ahead of the 2012 Parliamentary and 2015 Presidential elections. At Opendemocracy.net <PERSON> wrote:\nSince President <PERSON> came to power almost 16 months ago, the opposition has been virtually wiped out. Criminal cases are being brought against members of the <PERSON> government, but is this <PERSON>’s fight against corruption? Or are these cases politically motivated?\n[…]\nEveryone understands <PERSON> main strategy is absolute power: he wishes to have an absolute parliamentary majority, so at least 226 seats out of 450 have to go to the members of his Party of the Regions. This is the stated aim of all <PERSON>’s cronies. The Prosecutor General’s Office has been chosen as the main tool for achieving this goal. Convicts cannot stand for election, which explains the avalanche-like campaign of persecution against the opposition in <PERSON>’s first year in office.", "289" ], [ "All investigations against members of <PERSON>’s team must be concluded before the start of the pre-election campaign is announced.\nThe events in the courtroom seemed to do nothing less than reinforce the impression of a politically-motivated trial. The first day of a pre-trial hearing took place in a room of no more than 40 square meters, which, at one time, reportedly held up to a hundred people – conditions that the Head of the European Commission to Ukraine, <PERSON>, called “inhuman” [uk] and <PERSON> compared to a Soviet-time dissident trial.\nTo make matters worse, on the 6th of July, Judge <PERSON> ordered <PERSON> and her supporters to be removed from the courtroom for disturbing order. This is how blogger <PERSON> of Ukrainiana described the events:\nA joke of a trial turned into a show of force after the judge stopped tolerating habitual violations of courtroom order. The ax fell on <PERSON> and some of her supporters, including MP <PERSON> (BYuT), 77, a political prisoner in Soviet times.\nApparently, after police refused to use force against Members of Parliament (MPs), the Berkut special forces were called in to push <PERSON>’s supporters and journalists out (see videos here). Opposition MP <PERSON>, who was also present in court, tweeted [uk] about the special treatment he received by Berkut officers:\nВивихнули руку, здається. Не звернув увагу зразу\nIt seems [they have] dislocated my arm. I didn't notice [it] at first\nAccording to <PERSON>, her lawyer was given [uk] one and a half days to familiarize himself with the case of 5000 pages, which resulted in him sleeping for 2-3 hours a day for three days in the row, while also going to the hearings. On the 8 of July he had to be taken to a hospital.\nAll of this, however, seems to have only spiked <PERSON>’s popularity in both Ukraine and abroad.", "600" ], [ "The Dress Rehearsal for the Belarusian Crackdown · Global Voices\nTotal media control, or the unexpected virtue of being <PERSON>. Images edited by <PERSON>.\nThe state of free speech in Belarus enjoys remarkable stability: in 2015, Belarus placed 157th out of 180 countries on Reporters Without Borders’ Press Freedom Index for the third consecutive year. Attacks on the independent media have been commonplace since the 1990s. Restrictive laws, raids on newspapers, politicized criminal prosecutions, travel bans against outspoken reporters, and failing to investigate the murder of several journalists—Minsk has used every possible tool in its arsenal against the free press.\nThe Belarusian president, <PERSON>, who's sometimes called “Europe's last dictator,” once said journalists “hold a weapon of a most destructive power.” That's the reason, he says, the state must exercise such control over the media.\nToday, Minsk controls the media almost entirely. There are a few rare exceptions online, like the opposition news outlets Charter 97, Naviny.by, Belaruspartisan.org, the newspaper Narodnaya Volya, and a few others. <PERSON> would probably be happy to shut down these publications, too, but they provide a semblance of pluralist democracy that's useful when responding to criticisms at home and especially abroad.\n<PERSON> headed a collective farm before the Soviet Union collapsed. Today, he treats the Internet with a mix of awe and caution, regarding it as one of mankind's greatest creations, albeit a potentially dangerous, inherently American weapon.\n<PERSON> and his youngest son <PERSON> during harvesting on the territory of the presidential residence. Image: Press-service of the president of the Republic of Belarus.\nBelarus’ suppression of the media becomes especially violent during election season. During the last election, in December 2010, several opposition websites and some entire social networks went down, targeted by blocking and hacking efforts. Police raided the offices of Belsat TV and European Radio‘s local station, detaining several journalists.", "704" ], [ "<PERSON> declared victory in the election, but an international monitoring group from the Organization for Security and Cooperation in Europe said the election was neither free nor fair. Between 10,000 and 60,000 people gathered in downtown Minsk to protest the voting results, but police special forces dispersed the crowd by force and arrested as many as 700 protesters, as well as seven of the nine presidential candidates.\nThe next election will take place later this year, in November 2015, and the country's political situation promises to be even more volatile. Five years ago, most Belarusians lived in relative comfort, enjoying rising wages and retirement benefits. In 2011, however, the country's currency reserves ran out, and the dollar exchange rate nearly tripled from 3,100 Belarusian rubles in March 2011 to 8,700 by October. (Today, it takes almost 15,000 Belarusian rubles to buy a single US dollar.) The value of oil worldwide, too, has plummeted. <PERSON> has managed to contain the economic crisis thanks mainly to generous loans from Moscow.\nIn 2015, the Belarusian government owes its creditors roughly $4 billion, which is about two-thirds of its entire foreign reserves. The Belarusian economy, dominated by large, inefficient state-owned companies, is little reformed from its Soviet predecessor. The longer the country's financial woes continue, the less likely it is that Russian aid can rescue <PERSON> from a reckoning with voters. Also, Russia's own imploding economy, not to mention <PERSON>'s refusal to endorse the annexation of Crimea, jeopardizes this one remaining lifeline.\nOfficials in Minsk seem to realize that a cataclysm might be ahead, and there are signs that Minsk is moving to address the situation, ahead of presidential elections. Last December, the parliament adopted amendments to regulations on the media, equating the online media with the traditional mainstream media. The reforms also grant the Ministry of Communications and Informatization the power to shut down online resources extrajudicially.\n<PERSON>, founder of the independent website By24.", "704" ], [ "Bulgaria: President’s Gift to Pope Provokes Questions · Global Voices\nOn May 24, the Day of Bulgarian Education and Culture, and Slavonic Literature Day, the Bulgarian President <PERSON> visited the Vatican. At a meeting with Pope <PERSON>, President <PERSON> presented a huge Easter egg to him, the work of the Bulgarian sculptor <PERSON>.\nThe egg is made of inox steel and is gold-plated, studded with crystal stones (2,000 ruby-red crystals) in the colors of the rainbow, and consists of 11 sections in the form of diamonds, in the middle of which there is an inscribed cross. The egg is 2.3 meters high and weighs 200 kg – and is also engraved with the letters of the Bulgarian alphabet.\nNo one in the Bulgarian media wrote about the price of this precious gift. Bulgarian netizens, however, responded to the news with many questions.\nOn his blog, Bulgarian journalist <PERSON> posted a picture of the Pope and the Bulgarian President standing next to the egg, and commented [bg]:\n[…] At first glance, the thing is bigger than the President and the Pope combined. A golden cone? No, a Christmas tree? There was an egg, right? A huge “Fabergé” on the gear of an office chair, with an antenna stuck on top of it. But what is inside, will anyone reveal? […]\nIn the social media, the gift has become an object of jokes and humor. Here's a small selection:\n#Terribly tasteless…\n#What does Bulgaria have in common with an egg or Fabergé? What's the message? Maybe that we roost with hens?\n#Huge kitsch. Literally.\n#Such grandiosity… Looks like the Pope was frightened by the size of the egg.\n[…]\n#Seriously! Who made it? How much does it cost? Who paid the bill?\n[…]\nThe good news is that the great gift is not paid for with the public funds. The question is what it symbolizes and what exactly Bulgaria is saying to the world with this gift. Because there's no doubt the photo has made an impression around the world.", "739" ], [ "My first association was with Bulgarian weddings where there it is always more impressive to give a huge washing machine as a gift rather than a small picture. In English, this is called “excessive” […]. Such a gift would be a perfect fit for a visit of <PERSON> [<PERSON> predecessor at the President's post] to [<PERSON>]'s successor […].\nFreelance journalist <PERSON> wrote this on his blog [bg]:\n[…] In the past, the Vatican had tacitly refused to accept an ambassador sent by the [Bulgarian] President. If <PERSON> has decided to do diplomacy through such Kindersurprises, we can only speculate about what he would give to, say, [the German President <PERSON>], to [the U.S. President <PERSON>], or to the French President <PERSON>. […]\nJournalist <PERSON> commented in his column [bg] in Pogled.info that the “Vatican ‘Fabergé’ amidst the [strongest earthquake] in our country is a sign that the president has completely lost.”\nOn Facebook, people are discussing another photo of the Bulgarian President, the Pope and the Egg:\n<PERSON>: I really do not understand why there is a giant fake Fabergé with letters?\n<PERSON> I wonder where they got the money from to buy this “ovule”? From the Bulgarian people, no money for children and pensions – but we have money for such things. I can't stand these politicians……………\nOn the Facebook page “Kvartala.bg,” there was this criticism [bg] of the President's gift:\nNone of our business…. but <PERSON> gave the Pope a 200 kg egg, on the eve of May 24. The giant gift has been handcrafted for two years by 15 artists. Eheeee, that means that <PERSON> had planned and prepared his gifts before he became President, for the time when he would became President. How prescient, how profound.\nIn the comment section of the Dnes.bg's article [bg] about the President's gift, one reader commented:\nHopefully, there will remain some living space for the people in the Vatican after the installation of the egg…\nOn Twitter, there were reactions, too.", "260" ] ]

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