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I copy relevant articles like this and post'em on local BBSes. Not everyone has newsgroup access. ;-) -Kelley- -- ----------------------------------------------------------------- Thomas Kelley Boylan, PowerPC, IBM Austin, [email protected]

So I finally decided to risk this upgrade, FAQ in hand I've gathered the pieces together. The only problem is that I haven't been able to find anyone who's even heard of thermal tape/glue (which is what the FAQ recommends for attaching the heat sink) I am just tempted to use duct tape here.... anyone hae any ideas for me for attaching the heat sink to the processor?? much thanks.

Alltronics in San Jose (408) 943-9773 sells the Votrax Sc-01 Speech Synthesis chip for about $5.00. Also I noticed that Radio Shack sells the ISD chip which will store small amounts of digitized speech.

Computer Equipment Garage Sale: I've finally decided to clean out my closets and get rid of some of the stuff that is broken or not being used by me. I've put together a list and indicated what I think each item is worth. This is just my estimate, and I am very open to any offers, including trades. I'm currently looking for some CD-ROMs that will work with a Mac CD ROM player CD Caddies, HD floppy disks, any used Macintosh software, a 387-33Mhz Co-Processor, or basically anything you have lying around (cans of soup, the neighbor's cat, etc...) Make me an offer, no offer will be overlooked... I really want to get rid of this stuff... Ok, Here's the list: 52 Meg 3.5" SCSI Hard Drive. Conner Model #CP-3150. I bought this from a guy at a swap meet to use with my Macintosh. Unfortunately, I can't seem to get it to work with the SCSI controller in my computer. The guy tested it with his PC, and printed out a copy of the Norton Disk Doctor report which says it has no bad sectors. (I'll send you a copy) I was dumb enough not to get his phone number, so I can't return it to him. The drive has many jumpers on it, (which I don't know how to set) so maybe that's the problem. I was quite disappointed that it didn't work so I'm trying to minimize my losses. ~$45 52 Meg 3.5" SCSI Hard Drive. Conner Model #CP-3150. Same situation as above. I bought both of these drives from the same guy. Despite the different model numbers they are the same exact drive. Same report from NDD (I have one for each drive) will be included. ~$45 40 Meg SONY 3.5" SCSI Hard Drive. SONY Model #SRD2040A. The drive mechanism is completely trashed. This hard drive was in my computer (Mac SE) and had a stiction problem. Well, repeated banging on the side of the computer resulted in a head crash (yes, metal scraping metal) which was not too pleasant to listen to. Still the SCSI controller card is in good working order, and can be used for parts, or a project. ~$20 65 Meg Seagate 5.25" HH SCSI Hard Drive. Model #ST-277N. I originally bought this drive, because it had a small stiction problem, and I though that I could fix it. Well I determined that the drive mechanism was fine, and that it was a controller problem. (motor controller wasn't sending proper signals.) Well, after taking the controller off the drive, looking at it, and putting it back together, I realized that I accidentally severed one of the small flat cables that connect the drive to the controller. I tried to solder it, but I'm not that good at soldering so I couldn't do it. Worked perfectly before I messed up. I used it as a temporary drive when the SONY (above) crashed on me. Also loaded the drive with about twenty Mac applications, worth well over $1000. (Claris CAD, MS Word 5.0, Think C, Excel, and many others) I think all it needs is a resoldering of that cable. You also get all the software on the drive. (if you can accept being a pirate) I only ask that you delete my data files from the drive. I was really angry when I broke that connection, and then couldn't fix it. I just don't have time to play with it any more. ~$65 AT&T ISDN 7500 Modem. This is for use on digital phone systems. If you know what this is or would like technical information on it, let me know. I have some tech documents on it. Is supposed to be the same thing as an AT&T digital phone, but without the phone part. It seems to be in working order (passes self test perfectly OK). I have no idea how this is worth... Let me know if you're interested. Motorola 68881 CoProcessor. I haven't tested this one out yet, but if anyone is interested I will get it tested out, to make sure that it works. I had trouble using it with my accelerator board, but then I spoke to the manufacturer of the board and found out it couldn't be used without another controller chip. When I was looking around to buy one new, the prices were around $100. I will guarantee this to work. ~$65 CGA Card. Half-Length. 8-bit. Wasn't working last time I checked (although I think I was using a bad monitor) ~$5 5.25" 360K Floppy Drive. IBM Drive Type 1355. Guaranteed to work, because when I took it out of the PC, it was working! ~$25 5.25" 360K Floppy Drive. Toshiba Model Number ND-08DE-A. Guaranteed to work. Came out of same PC as above. ~$25 5.25" Floppy Drives. Can't guarantee that these will work. I don't even know if they are low or high density drives. I don't have any method of testing them. Panasonic Model number: JU-455-5 ACG. There's another number on it: 2626-361723. Panasonic Model number: JU-475-2 AGG. There's also another number on it: H3649-101457 Toshiba Model Number ND-08DE. Virtually identical to the one above. Each Drive ~$10 3.5" PS/2 Drive. These things are proprietary, so I can't test it, but I think it works. Not sure if it's high density or low density, but I suppose someone who is looking for one would know. Model Number DFL413C04A. I think these things are expensive to replace. ~$35 MFM Hard Drive Controller Cards. I've got three of these, and I have no way of testing them. Two of them are 8-bit cards, and one is a sixteen bit card with a floppy controller built in. ~$10 for the 8-bits ~$15 for the 16-bit card w/floppy. Interesting cable. Seems to convert from a VGA plug to an EGA plug. That is, standard nine-pin to VGA 15 pin. Made by Hewlett Packard. Part No. D1181-80020 ~$10 I've sold stuff like this before, and it was a huge success, with many satisfied people trading or bartering stuff they didn't need anymore. I usually ship through the U.S. Postal Service (haven't had any problems yet) and the shipping costs will be split or negotiated. Well, that's all folks. As I said before, no offer will be refused. If you can convince me to give OCit to you instead of throwing it out, TRY! I hate to throw away stuff... -Wayne

i need to know about the market for cellular antenna technology today... who are the main companies in the market.. how much are they selling them for? who are the contact people? what are the specs? I will mail oyou our reserach so far if youcan help us!!

Hello I recently accelerated my Mac Plus (MicroMac 25MHz accelerator) and now I can't get my Mac to boot off of the hard disk. It boots fine from a floppy, and I can mount the hard disk using SCSI probe, but I cannot get it to boot from the hard drive. I installed a new driver, so I don't think that is the problem. This poses a rather large problem. I only have 4 Meg of RAM, and I need to run Mathematica, which requires 5 Meg. I was hoping to use system 7 virtual memory so that I could run Mathematica. However, I can't run system 7 from a floppy, so I can't get enough RAM. Any suggestions? Thanks for your time-- [email protected]

<lots of stuff deleted> Might depend on where you live .. I know locally, for most of the winter the ground, and concrete floor, within sheds and garages (unheated) is signifacantly warmer than the average air temperature. The air does get warmer during the day, but during the night, the ground and concrete is definitely warmer, especially when protected by the walls from the albedo effect. And the nights are longer by several hours than the days. <rest of quoted text deleted>

Wrong, the CD300 (external) is just a plain ol' SCSI device. No, multisession capability and double speed are two different thing. Its just that the newer CD ROM drives have both capability. Multisession means that when you put more pictures on a photo CD after the first session, the drive can read and display them. Double speeds just transfer ANY type of data (excluding sound) at around double the speed. CD150 is not multisession capable. This means that you lose the ability to add any more pictures after the first time (must buy a new CD). Finally, since the CD150 is not a double speed drive, it will require twice as long to transfer data (excluding sound).

Article: 41686 of sci.electronics Newsgroups: sci.electronics Path: news.nd.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!bogus.sura.net!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!asuvax!ennews!mcdphx!schuch From: [email protected] (John Schuch) Subject: Food Dehydrators Message-ID: <[email protected]> Sender: [email protected] Nntp-Posting-Host: bopper2.phx.mcd.mot.com Organization: Motorola Computer Group, Tempe, Az. Distribution: usa Date: Mon, 19 Apr 93 10:43:56 EST Lines: 9 Try Mother Earth News, Feb/March 1993, pg 54, "Build a Food Dryer"

In light of the 100 letter over "What was the LISA" I thought I'd start a new one. What was the IIvx? I hear it was some machine that predated the main 040 line by about 6 mos, but used obsolete tech. Rumor has it that several were sold....

You are quite correct in your understanding. The filtering is not interpolation, as that would distort the frequency content of the signal you are listening to. Generally, these players run the samples thru an all-pass filter network. I have done this for ECG waveforms from a person's heart, and the effect is rather spooky. It actually reconstructs peaks that weren't there (correctly, too!) and fills in the gaps with the properly computed values, just as if there had been a real sample taken at that point. I use a CPU to do all the math. It takes a decent (but not unreasonable) amount of CPU time to do this. You can keep up with things in realtime if you write efficient code. In case you care, the filtering method uses an FIR (finite impulse response) filter. I'd guess that CD makers use the same kind of method. Anybody out there know the real answer? I'd say that they use a tapped delay line with resistor/op-amp weighting to accomplish the filtering. This strikes me as the most cost effective method for volume production runs. Actually, I think the only reason they do this is so that they can say that they have a marketting gimic. I would guess that it is acutally cheaper to filter an oversampled signal than not. You can use sloppier components and give the filter a roll-off that isn't so sharp. It's too bad that they charge more for something that (I think) is actually less costly to build. I seriously doubt that the filters cost the same but are better. They are built to a price spec, and that spec says "cheap as possible!". -dave

I don't know much about phones in Germany, but this is what I know: I bought a phone in the U.S. for my mother who lives in Bratislava, Slovakia and it works just fine. The problem is they don't have wall jacks like we do here. There is a wire without any jack at the end sticking out of the wall. So you need to connect the wires (I'm not sure if they have wall jacks in Western Europe - they may). Hope this helps. Dagmar [email protected]

For Sale: Minolta Master Series-C50 VHS-C Camcorder Forsale -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- Multidimensional Autofocus System 6x power zoom Charge coupled device Dual-area autoexposure system (for backlit subjects) High-speed digital shutter 1/1000 sec Dual Mode Self Timer Date/time insert Linear tape counter Power focus Advanced Auto white balance system MIC jack, DC OUT, REMOTE connector, earphone minijack Excellent condition, used several times in two years Original box and packing AC Adapter/Charger VAC-500U One standard VBP-500 (60 min) One extra VBP-501 (80 min) Cassette Adapter AD-2 (for full size VHS viewing) bunch of miscellaneous extras (RF adapter,cords, etc) Available immediately Price $550.00 US firm Shipping extra Please email responses to:

My school is settinÿûg up a new network with bothe Macs and Apple II's. I'm used to ethernet, and don't know muÿch about LocalTalk. Two things: first, in MacWherehouse, btheÿy have PowerUser network connectors, and the caption leads you to belÿûieve that you can plug them into the phone lines in the building and have them work. Is this true? I've seen it done by running sepÿerate phone cords, but never with real lines. Second, if that does work, could you use a modem ÿhooked up to that same line while the network was active? Help would be greatly appriciated. BTW-ÿ’running seperate phone line is out of the question, the network wil VERRY spread o. EriCronin _______________________________________________________________________________ Bringing a kind word and a helpful Spirit wherever we can, we are... -+- THE ASSOCIATION - a multi-line Macintosh BBS in Grand Blanc, Michigan! Echoes from Fido, InterNet, FamilyNet, ICDMnet, K-12 - PLUS 2Gb files at 313-695-6955 HST/v.32bis. ___________________________________________________________________ Testify 2.0

I am upgrading my hard drive so I am selling this 40 M drive, it run great, without any problem, for $90 and share the shipping.

: : So what's the story here... we're all stuck with the regular : green, red, and off yellow-orange LED's!? What gives!!?? : Anybody have a 'scoop' on FAIRLY LOW PRICED >BLUE< LED's??? If your looking for LEDs in the $.10-$.20 range, forget it. Blue LEDs just recently became available and the materials they are made of are expensive. Maybe in the future they will become less expensive (and brighter), but for now it's going to cost you and the output will be limited. If they ever do get as efficient and cost effective as red and green LEDs, you're probably going to see a whole new family of color displays.

stem I I've had the same experience actually. I love the Mac interface and any number of the features, but am sorely dissapointed with the speed. I use macs daily and am a Moc consultant for OSU Statistics department; I'm familiar with almost every model out there, and my experience is that both the Amiga and the Atari ST simply "blow the Mac out of the water" in terms of performance. At this time I would in general say that the other advantages of the Mac outweigh the advantages of the Amiga or the ST (and Falcon), but I really wish Apple would get their heads together on speed... :-((((( They could take a real lesson in muli-tasking from the Amiga OS or the MultiTOS in the Atari Falcons too :-((( > I'm still happy with my ci, but I don't understand why the performance is I just hope that someone comes out with a machine that does *everything* well someday. If I had my choice, I would go with Mac in most aspects, but add the speed and superior Multi-Tasking of the other platforms. As for the original topic; Trying to compare *just the chip* in a machine seems almost worthless. A fast 386 with a wiz-bang graphics accelerator will be faster in productivity for many applications than a even a stock Quadra. Add a graphics accelerator to a 486 and you *really fly*. Of course, add one the the Quadra and then you're blowing the 486 away... etc... I think mine was only worth $0.01....... ---------------------------------------------------------------------->

completed Why would you dispose a channel if you are going to play more sounds soon? If you are trying to write a game, you shouldn't be using SndPlay. Instead, make a channel and use BufferCmds to play sounds on it. It works great. You can add CallBacks to the channel also to let you know when the channel is getting empty. Before it gets empty. 7.1, Callbacks are very reliable, I found them 100% reliable, even under System 4.1. I was doing continuous background sound with interrupting sound effects on System 6.0 with the IM-V documentation. You probably were cancelling your callback commands out of your channels, of course you didn't get called. In general, if you have problems with sounds working when you play one per channel and then close the channel (with the related slowdown), but then when you play more than one you don't work, then you are adding more than one synthesizer to a channel, possibly the same one multiple times. This might be because you are calling SndPlay on a preexisting channel with a sound resource which adds the sampled sound synthesizer to the channel first thing before it plays. Most sampled sounds have this command at the start of them. You need to resedit the sound and remove that command, then when you create your channel, specify the sampled sound synthesizer to be the channel's synth. Then you can use asynch sndplay's all you want. You'll probably want to switch to BufferCmd's, since you are going to have to use SndDoCommand anyway to add callbacks. Now before you go ahead and tell me I am full of it, and the sound manager doesn't work for games, remember, Spectre uses it. And it works great. If Spectre can spare the CPU time, you can too. One little disclaimer: There are some out there who say the Sound Manager in the IIsi can't be made to work right. I'm not sure either way, but I know for sure that you can make your sounds work 100% correctly on every other machine using the Sound Manager.

I am selling the following sets of comics. Listed are the guide prices (Overstreet, or Comics Values Monthly or Wizard if I couldn't find it in Overstreet) as well as my price. Feel free to ask me about single items from the sets, as I often have extra copies of some of the items in the set. All comics are Near Mint to Mint unless otherwise noted. Set # Titles Guide PRICE ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1. Adventure Comics Set (VF-NM unless noted) $130.00 $100.00 296, 304, 312, 313, 319 (F-VF) 2. Animal Man Set $ 46.00 $ 30.00 Animal Man 35-38, 41 Animal Man TPB Reprint #1 Wonder Woman 267 (Re-intro Animal Man) 3. Avengers Set $ 21.00 $ 9.00 Avengers 263, 272, 300, 306, 324, 329 Avengers Annual 15, 18, 19 4. Fish Police $ 22.50 $ 9.00 Fish Police 3-7, 9 5. Green Arrow $ 35.50 $ 15.00 Green Arrow 1-9, 12, 47-51 6. Infinity Gauntlet $ 17.00 $ 9.00 Infinity Gauntlet 1-3 7. Legion of Super-Heroes $ 8.00 $ 5.00 Legion of Super-Heroes 294 Legion of Super-Heroes (1989) 1, 21 L.E.G.I.O.N. 29, 30 8. Lone Wolf and Cub $ 22.00 $ 15.00 Lone Wolf and Cub 5-10, 18, 19, 21-23 9. Omega Men $ 23.00 $ 15.00 Omega Men 3, 10 Omega Men Annual 1, 2 10. Outcasts $ 21.00 $ 10.00 Outcasts 1-12 11. Ragman $ 9.00 $ 5.00 Ragman 1-5 12. Retief $ 16.25 $ 9.00 Retief Volume 1 (Mad Dog) 1-6 Retief Volume 2 (Adventure) 1 Retief of the C.D.T. 13. Silver Blade $ 24.00 $ 9.00 Silver Blade 1-12 16. Slash Maraud $ 10.50 $ 5.00 Slash Maraud 1-6 17. Sleepwalker $ 16.25 $ 10.00 Sleepwalker 1, 4-13 18. Star Trek $ 30.00 $ 20.00 Star Trek (Marvel) 3 (VG), 6 (F), 10 (VF) Star Trek: Next Generation (mini) 1 Star Trek: Next Generation (series) 1,2 19. Strange Adventures (VF-NM unless noted) $260.00 $200.00 Strange Adventures 91, 124, 125, 128, 140, 144, 146 (F-VF), 147 (G), 148 (G), 150, 152, 166, 169, 171, 174, 205 (F-VF) 20. Superman $ 18.40 $ 10.00 Superman 2, 4, 7, 53 Superman Annual 1-3 Superman The Earth Stealers Superman The Man of Steel 1 21. Trekker $ 9.50 $ 5.00 Trekker 1-6 22. Trouble with Girls $ 20.00 $ 9.00 Apache Dick 1-3 Trouble with Girls (Eternity) 5, 11-14 Trouble with Girls (Comico) 2, 4 23. V For Vendetta $ 8.00 $ 5.00 V For Vendetta 6, 7, 9, 10 24. Video Jack $ 12.00 $ 5.00 Video Jack 1-6 25. Warlock and The Infinity Watch $ 19.00 $ 10.00 Warlock and the Infinity Watch 2-9 26. Warriors $ 6.50 $ 5.00 Warriors 1-3 27. X-Terminators $ 7.25 $ 5.00 X-Terminators 1-4 I guarantee comic grading satisfaction. If you are not satisfied with the grade I've assigned to the book, you can send it back and I will refund your money minus shipping costs. I have thousands of other comics, so if you are looking for something in particular, please let me know. I might be able to help out. I reserve the right to refuse any offer.

Panasonic KX-P2124 24-pin Dot Matrix Printer -320 cps -1/127 in. dot diameter -16-character LCD -Super Quiet Mode -Draft, Letter Quality, Super Letter Quality Fonts -Rear, Bottom, Front, or Top paper feeding (Friction or Tractor) -Color compatible (needs optional Color Kit) -includes Windows 3.1 Panasonic printer drivers disk. Bought it in Jan. '93 and have used it very little. Still has original ribbon cartridge. This is a very nice printer and is in brand new conditio I just dont use it often enough and I need money. I'll take $200 for it.

One way Omaha to Seattle ticket in my name [Jessamyn West] for travel 5/9. Must be picked up at Omaha airport [or thereabouts] on 5/6. Continental Airlines. Make me an offer.

Sorry, this must be a FAQ, but it's a quick fix that I need to take care of before a demo in less than 24 hours from now! Couldn't think of a better place for a rapid answer than comp.sys.mac.hardware. I need to connect the Serial A of a Compac 386/20 PC to the printer port of a Mac IIci. Does anyone have handy the pin-pin routing for the cable that would allow this connection? The serial port on the Compaq is a MALE DB9. How would this map to the DIN8 of the Mac serial? I tried one of those really short femaleDB9-maleDIN8 cables that Apple sold as adaptors to plug in Macintosh serial peripherals from the pre-MacPlus era. This cable didn't do it. Do I need a null modem adaptor as well on the DB9 side of things? I just need to be able to map the data TX and RX pins correctly. thanks kindly,

Hi Netters. For my home computer I have a humble MacLC with a 12" color monitor. The majority of my work is writing, therefore I would love to have a b&w portrait monotor conected to the LC. However, I sometimes do need the color monitor. My question is this; Is there a good (Cheap) way to hook up two monitors to my LC and is there anyone out there that has done this, how do you like it? Please respond here or to me directly. Thanks for your time, hope to talk to anyone soon! jerry salem

When will people learn! The trouble is the ballast in the concrete and as every fool knows Ballast resistors are used to discharge batteries. Furthermore it is very silly to store the battery with the terminals downwards as you must have done to contact the ballast. Seriously: self discharge (the actual problem, as stated by others) does vary greatly with certain types and freaks show low self discharge. I have in fact seen ordinary automotive batteries which have effectively held full charge for > 2 years so it must be possible. If your garage is heated, store the batteries somewhere cooler but above freezing (flat batteries freeze more easily). Occasionally charge it (once a month?) or even leave it on 'float' charge permanently (special charger, DON'T do this unless you know what you are doing, seriously dangerous). Anouther point is the unsuitability of automotive batteries for things like electric mowers -- they are not generally designed to be repeatedly deep discharged and their life may be greatly shorted. Some early zero maintenance automotive batteries in fact responded to a full discharge with total failure shortly afterwards but modern ones are superb. (6yrs, 95000 miles and counting)

Larger drives tend to have multipule platters which can allow adjacent bits to be read in parallel resulting in higher throughput. They also have higher spindle speeds which leads to both increased throughput and reduced seek times (due to reduction of rotational latency.)

No. I recently bought an LC II with a 14" monitor. The monitor comes with the type of power cable that plugs into the switched outlet on the back of most larger Macs. Since the LC II doesn't have one of these outlets, there was an extra standard power cable included with the computer for use with the monitor. But it was in the computer box, not the monitor box. It's not as if the cables are particularly expensive, though. $10-$15 at the most.

Close, but no cigar. The LISA was introduced in January, 1983 (at the same time as the Apple //e). I'll have to check to see if the Hard Drive came bundled for the $10K. The floppy drives were 5.25" initially (the infamous "twiggy" drives)

Nope. I keep my Mac running all the time since it also acts as a usenet node and exchanges mail and news every half hour (I run uAccess) and receives all my faxes. I do turn off the monitors hooked up to it. They produce more heat than I want - it can be warm in my garage office in the summer. I've got one of those handy power control centers ($25 at Fry's) to I just flip the switch in front when I start or stop working. By the way, this strategy seems to be somewhat endorsed by Apple since their new Color Classic will turn off its own monitor after a certain length of idle time.

I am running System 7.1 on a Centris 610. I have not been able to setup my printer yet because when I open Chooser, I get a blank screen. I do have all kinds of print drivers but none shows up. I even do not get a port iconn either. It is just one big BLANK screen. Your help is very appreciated. BTW I did rebuild the desktop but that did not help either.

Maybe you should contact your schools officials and make them consider installing the necessary softwares or hardwares that allows the Unix works stations to shuts off its monitor when left untouched. It does save a lot of energy. - Chung Yang

THe origional bit is missing but long/short follows: The origional poster asked if he/she could use any old vga/svga monitor with a centris (hence title). The answer ot this question is an unqualified yes. You can use any old vga/svga monitor with a centris. You do need an adaptor (I use a Mac vga-q from james engineering (510) 525-7350) to run between the two machines. THe adaptor I have mentioned will convert a centris to a three row vga/svga 25(?) pin adaptor for your monitor. NOW, the special interest disclaimer. The above answer is correct for using a vga monitor at 600x400 resolution. IF your monitor will sync to 56Khz horizontal the above adaptor will allow you to choose 800x600 resolution (I prefer this on my 1604s). THen You have the question of matching adaptors and sync rates. I would advocate calling James engineering because they seem to have a clue. As to the comment by the person who said don't bother calling Apple because they will treat you like an idiot this is totally untrue. APPLE WILL TREAT YOU LIKE A F**KING ASSANINE IDIOT FOR EVEN CONSIDERING GOING THIRD PARTY AND IF YOU WANT THIS TREATMENT WANTS YOU TO PAY FOR THEIR THECH SUPPORT LINE (the supposedly compitantly one) AND THEN STILL HAS NO FU***** CLUE. personal experience. also the tech suppport for the vga monitor makers doesn't see to extend to Macs (Sony, Magnavox). In addition to this to find out the info you will have to call dealers unless you can find the sync rates elsewhere as ads like Hardware that fits (*&^%&%^%$$(&**&^(%&%^$!) that rate monitor resolutions give the most favorable rating (which usually means you can get this if you use a specialized application video card).(i.e. "well you can get a resolution 1168x832 on this $5, 9" "super smelly sock" monitor that will let you display TWO FULL PAGES side by side. All you need is our reasonably priced "oder eater" video board for $27,000 and it will give you an ultra fast horizontal sync rate of SIX fast kilohertz and three Khz vertical.") Note: with the sony 1604 at least on the centris 610 built in video board using an 832x624 adaptor, there is a boarder of an inch + to the sides of the image after adjusting the horizontal width as favorably as possible. Using a 800x600 adaptor this can be reduced to about half an inch.

The first step is to make sure that there is no DC component, intentional or not, on the audio lines to be switched. If neither the output or input presents an unintentional DC level (let's say they're capacitively coupled), then putting a 22 K resistor from each input to ground, and from the output to ground is a good precaution against leakage in any coupling caps presenting a DC level that is GUARANTEED to cause a click. If the device presents an unintentional DC level that is from more than just coupling capacitor leakage, then you need to remove the DC before switching with coupling capacitors of your own. If you have more than one relay (each relay switching one input through to a common output), you can use make-before-break switching where for a brief instant both sources are connected during a switch change. This may mask the switch click. An audio switch that is clickless is made by taking a light bulb and making your own ersatz opto-isolator with a light-dependent resistor (LDR) sealed inside a piece of black heatshrink. Many broadcast consoles use this older, but time-honored technique. Claro actually makes a complete optisolator like this, but I don't have a part number handy. Radio Shack has a LDR grab-bag (276-1657) you might want to try. For a simple, solid state clickless switch that is cheap, you might try looking at the CD4066 analog switch that is commonly available (or its older predecessor, the 4016). Again, the DC component must be removed prior to switching. Other alternatives include JFET switches (both discrete and IC) and diode switching (which works relatively well, surprisingly). All the above, with their pitfalls and application tips could easily make a subject for a multi-page article. Solid state switches may induce a click of their own when turned on due to charge being injected into the audio line through device capacitance when the control signal changes state. Techniques to minimize this include lowering the impedance of the signal paths through the switch, differential switching, and slowing the risetime of the control pulse. With the 4016, cutting the click can be as simple as putting 10K - 47K resistors in series with the control pins. Hope this helps at least get you started. -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave Medin Phone: (205) 730-3169 (w) SSD--Networking (205) 837-1174 (h) Intergraph Corp. M/S GD3004 Internet: [email protected] Huntsville, AL 35894 UUCP: ...uunet!ingr!b30!catbyte!dtmedin ******* Everywhere You Look (at least around my office) *******

Oh, yeah. This is a fine place. We haven't had the "why does concrete kill lead-acid batteries" thread in at least six months. The concrete simply sucks all the electrons out of the battery and drains them into the ground. Another explanation, implausible as it is, is that the lead-acid battery needs to be periodically charged (topped-off), otherwise the battery self-discharges and then undergoes irreversible chemical reaction. Naawwwww.... the concrete sucks the life out.

o Sony Color Watchman, model FDL-310 - VHF/UHF - 86,400 pixels; 2.7 inch (diag) screen - dimensions 3 3/8" x 6 1/8" x 1 3/16" - bright, vibrant colors, and very sharp (unlike the Casio pocket TVs) - AC power adapter - paid $300.00 Asking $150.00 obo

[ ... Useful info about the Maxtor drive deleted ... ] However, Thad, you should note that he said that he would like to use it on a 'PC', not 'UNIX-PC'. Also note the strange cross-posting (as he probably did not), so it is not sure exactly what sort of machine he intends to mount it on. If it *is* a PC (or clone), then the "2C" jumper would be the correct choice. I've left the cross-posting in effect, since I'm not sure which newsgroup he would really be reading this in. :-) DoN.

Acetone will likely damage the carpet. First solvent to try is denatured alcohol. Do not waste your time with rubbing alcohol. You can use methyl alcohol instead of denatured alcohol. If you want to have a cocktail while you are removing the goo, use pure grain alcohol :-). If the alcohol does not work try carbon tetrachloride. If neither of these work you may need to try a stronger solvent, but the alcohol works for most adhesives. Good luck.

True enough, but... Zilog SCC: --------- RR0[7]: Break Detect This is a very popular part, but it has a number of quirks, especially in HDLC mode. Signetics 68562 DUSCC: --------------------- RSR[2]: Break Start Detect RSR[3]: Break End Detect Two of the bits in the Receiver Status Register. You can enable an interrupt on either of these bits going high, too. Also, only one NULL will be put in the FIFO per break detected. This is simply the best serial chip I've ever worked with. _Many_ less quirks than the SCC, which is IMHO second-best. (Death to 8250 devices!)

Here's something to add to the discussion: Newsgroups: misc.activism.progressive From: "James P. Reynolds" <[email protected]> Subject: When you're not using it, turn it off! Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1993 06:50:14 GMT Lines: 53 Research has shown that the majority of the time that the United States' 30 to 35 million personal computers are on, they are not actively being used. In addition, 30 to 40 percent are left running at night and on weekends. Computer equipment is now the fastest growing private-sector use of electricity. Computers alone are believed to account for five percent of commercial electricity consumption, and may account for ten percent by the year 2000. If you are one of those who leave them on after you're done, it would be a big environmental benefit if you would just TURN IT OFF when you're not using it. It only takes a second or two to do. Also, the majority of the power your computer uses is not consumed by the computer itself, but by the monitor. If you can't turn the computer off, then please just TURN OFF THE MONITOR. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency has formed an alliance with computer manufacturers to promote the introduction of energy- efficient PCs that "power down" automatically when not being used and thus reduce the air pollution caused by power generation. These new computers will save enough electricity to power both Vermont and New Hampshire and save up to 1 billion U.S. dollars in annual electricity bills. Look for the special EPA "Energy Star" logo when you buy computers. They should be available in one to two years. According to the EPA studies, the energy saved will prevent CO2 emissions of 20 million tons annually, the equivalent of five million automobiles. Also, 140,000 tons of SO2 and 75,000 tons of nitrogen oxide emissions will be saved; these are the major pollutants responsible for acid rain. Please do your part ... be responsible. If you're not using it, then just TURN IT OFF. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Information herein is partially taken from the 1993 "Information Please" Almanac, page 573, and the U.S. Envirnomental Protection Agency's "Environmental News." Please redistribute this message to every computer bulletin board, network, memo system, etc. you can think of. Archive it and post it every so often if you can. Let's get the word out to everyone. We need to be responsible about the way we consume.

Yes, it does. All the equipment has to have that Telekom approval number to be legal. What has changed is that you can buy the equipment somewhere else. I'm pretty sure the same holds true in Sweden (at least when I read some information on it about tweo years ago). And BTW I do know that most of the lines in Sweden can handle tone-dialing, just don't be sure that all can.

It's possible to make boards in other colors, and I have an ad for laser light-show equipment which offers the circuit boards in your choice of Day-Glo (tm) colors. The usual light green color is just the natural color of Fiberglas. The dark green or blue is the solder mask layer, and I suspect that color is a dye.

Greetings. There are 3 types of warnings on (US) tapes: 1) A hologram is glued across the seam of the 2 halves of the tape. The message usually reads, "If seal is broken, you must buy this tape" 2) The standard "MacroVision" warning, "Copies of this tape will be unviewable" 3) [your case] Extended message for the Average Consumer (tm) which states that even attempting to copy the tape will destroy the original. I don't believe you can sue them for misinformation in cases like this :-) Take care. P.S. Of course, #3 is utter BS - but the Average Consumer (tm) believes it. Heck, my mom once returned such a tape without watching it... she was afraid that something might just happen :-)

I'm currently trying to select which magneto-optical drive to purchase. I'm primarily looking at 128MB drives, although I might consider 256MB ones. When looking through MacWorld and MacUser ads, the prices for the 128MB drives seem to range from just under $1000 (for the DGR 128REM Portable, Magic 128MB Portable Fujitsu, or NuDesign 128MB from MacDirect) to about $1600 (for the FWB HammerDisk 130 and Mass Microsystems DataPak MO/128). Different drives use different mechanisms - MOST, Fujitsu, Sony, Epson, probably some others. My problem is that after reading the Nov 92 MacWorld and Apr 93 MacUser reviews of these drives, I'm still not sure what to get. So, I'm asking if anyone has had good/bad experiences with any 128MB M-O drive or can shed some light on the wide range of prices (is spending more really buying me much?), reliability of different drives, compatibility between them, or anything else I should probably know. Thanks.

Have anyone dealt with "Hardware that Fits" before. I have seen their ad in both MacWorld and MacUser and decided to try them when I needed a new disk. The result was not satisfactory and I was just wondering if I was just an isolated case. I like to send a letter to the president of "Hardware that Fits". Do anyone know the address? Is it the same address as the one I return the products to? -- Mei-Mei Su =========================================================================== Software Engineer email : mms@ltx_tr.portal.com LTX Corporation [email protected]

I am not a company, thus this is not a commercial sale. I purchased 256 T-shirts last fall for a fund raiser that fell through. We didn't have the time to sell the shirts. I have about 175 shirts left and I am willing to sell them to you for $5.25 a piece (more than a dollar discount of what you would have paid the supplier for the shirts, even in bulk) (That's $918.75 for 175 shirts) These shirts are Jim Morris T-shirts. They are all 100% cotton and most have more than 4 colors. (They are clean and neatly folded in a box. If any happen to be damaged I will refund your money for each damaged shirt or replace it, your option.) You could sell them for at least $8 to $15 a piece (the higher number is for the nicer shirts) to raise money for a school event or a organization. I realize it is a big investment, but it could pay off big. I would be willing to sell the shirts in lots of 50 but only at $5.50 a shirt. I will pay shipping, but prefer local buyers and will give them more bargaining power. Please help me. I do not have the time to sell these shirts and I need the money. I am taking a big loss by selling this cheap. I will give you Jim Morris' phone number so that you can varify the prices. All prices are negotiable. --Truman

yeah, but most of those are Big Hulking Mainframes which have no monitors. factoid : FAbricated or Corrupted Tidbit of Ordinary Information (Diluted) ok dpm

... Yes, that is what it sounds like to me, too. But before I spend da bucks, I want to make sure I'm right. I do have e-mail from a (self-confessed :-) Apple-hater listing a few common problems with the C610, but nothing I can't get fixed under warranty. So, anybody else? Great or lousy?

Anyone know if there is an updated driver for Sony DAT drives? I can't get mine to work with our 950 (see "Sony DAT / Retrospect Problems" posted in this group) but I'm also having problems with other new macs... Cheers, Matt. -----------------------------------------------------------------------

More than Talk: From the FCC Rules: 73.4250 Subliminal Perception: (a) See Public Notice, FCC 74-78, dated January 24, 1974, 44 FCC 2d, 1016; 39 Fr 3714, January 29, 1974. (b) See FCC Information Bulletin, "Subliminal Projection" (sic, at least in my rules service copy of the rules), dated November 1977. Since I don't have either old copies of the Federal Register or the Information Bulletin around, I can't tell you what you can't do on TV ( or radio) but I seem to remember this being an unnecisarily hot subject in the late '70s. Practically speaking, I dont have too much trouble seeing the one frame edits in MTV promos, badly scratched or torn single frames in films and such, but maby that's just because the contrast between the single frame and the surrounding material was significant. I never believed in the one-frame type of SP being real. On the other hand, the Coca-Cola or Brand (insert desired name here) beer cans conveniently placed so the brand name is visible in the movie you just watched, that's another story, and if your TV station or network was paid by the beer company for the privilege of doing that, there has to be a "Promotional Consideration paid by ...) or similar message included with the program; but if the TV station bought the movie already edited that way from the film company and didn't get any of the payment for "brand visibility" that the film company got, then they don't have to run the message.